Thank you so very much for posting the video. My son has a 04 dakota with the v8. The clutch slave cylinder went out. He bought one from Auto Zone where he works. Everyone told him it would not work. He will have to buy a pre-bled system from dodge for $350.00. I watched your video, and said it can't hurt to try it. Took the hydrolic system off like you said, bench bled it, put it back on, and works like a brand new one. Thank you sir.
This method is the quickest and the best. I tried everything to bleed a honda clutch hydraulic system, 2 man method, vacuum method, gravity bleed method, 2 master cylinders, 2 repair kits, 2 slave cylinders, 1 liter of brake fluid, still no pressure. After I saw this, couple of pumps and what the heck, it's got pressure. Thanks a lot boss !
for a month now my truck has been out of commision after having a shop replace the flywheel, the cluth, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, clutch fork, master cylinder and slave cylinder. after watching this I called them and asked how they bled the system, my 1990 ford f150 has the same setup u used as an axample and it turns out they bled like u would a brake system. there is no bleeder screw and its not self bleeding im going in tomorrow and doing this myself. incredibly helpful video and ill update with the results tomorrow
I paid bucks deluxe to have a new clutch installed on my 90 Chevy K1500 4X4 which included a rebuilt Slave Cylinder and now six months later the Slave Cylinder is ka-put. This professionally done video is going to save me many dollars, because I can do this!
This video saved me much heartache when replacing just the clutch master cylinder on my '95 Jeep Wrangler. Coincidentally, I realized after I got back out to the garage that the master cylinder I bought (from Advance Auto) was actually a Perfection brand part!
This is probably a stupid question, but ive never done this before and need to lol what happens when you take the steering gear puller off? Does the piston just stay on there? Or how do you get the pushrod put back on once system is pressurized?
Mighty vacuum pump tool kit...use the brake bleeder part of the kit..use a narrow adapter with a point end in the reservoir and suck the air out of the system..works like magic easy!
Think how your brake hydraulic system works...they put the bleeder on the top of the system...the clutch system the bleeder is on the bottom of the system...that is why the vacuum method pulls the air up the natural way it wants to flow but it is trapped...the vacuum pump kit 25136 sells for $35.00 at Autozone.These clutch systems have caused countless hours of flustration to many DIY'ers and proffesional mechanics.
What do you do if the hard line had a lot of bends and curves that could trap air? Also, the car i am working on has a clip that prevents you from bench bleeding the whole system and then installing it. I would have to disconnect one of the lines after bench bleeding it to install it. How would you go about bleeding a system like that? Thanks.
Hey thanks for the vid. I have a 92 Chevy Silverado 1500K and my starter went out. i had to take off the two bolts to my slave cylinder in order to move it out of the way and drop my starter, however; when I replaced the slave, the clutch would not move. I could not press it down. There is no bleeder valve to bleed it. Prior to my starter going out, the clutch always went to the floor. I had tried to adjust it but no adjustment screw at the pedal. So, if I depress the piston of the clutch slave a few times while the reservoir is full and lid is off, that will bleed it? Now what about putting the slave back into the bellhousing without that retainer strap that I think I lost. The strap that is meant to break the first time the clutch is pressed. It was hanging off the slave when I took it out of the bellhousing to drop my starter. I didn't know what it was or why it was there. Also my truck would not start after I replaced the starter. I was told i needed to push in the clutch in order for truck to start. But it was in neutral is that true even if in neutral. Pls help. anyone??? I can't go to the store or get my kids to school without transportation and im running out of option. Thank you . Stuck like chuck
When it's just a matter of a bit of air in the hydraulic clutch system causing the clutch to engage at the bottom of the stroke I've had success by just filling the master cylinder and very rapidly pumping the clutch pedal until the bubbles find their way out...You will gradually feel increased pedal pressure as the air works it's way out. It could take several hundred strokes but still a lot easier than what you went through in this video. My method may or may not work on a completely empty system....I've never been there.
Ive seen people doing this , rapid pumping of pedal , but it can damage the rubber seal , pumping rapidly like that . Slow action of the pedal is best , in my experience, as perfection clutch says , depends on system but , rapid movement of pedal will do damage in long run. certainly if a dry spot occurs during bleeding at the seal against wall of cyclinder.
Yep i agree totally perfection clutch. I fitted a handy one today on a citroen , just hand pumped the air out of it almost like you done here in video .
I have an 87 Dodge D-100 I have been fighting the air in a new master and slave cylinder. The slave does have a set screw bleeder. Can I use the bleeding method you just demonstrated to bleed the system without using the set screw bleeder?
my hydraulic system has a bleed screw on the slave cylinder but not the master clutch cylinder. I can't get the slave to bleed when I open the bleeder screw nothing comes out at all not even a drop of fluid. I disconnected the quick release and pushed down on the fuel hole looking thing that started flowing out all of the fluid. does this mean my slave is bad? I just bought it could it be faulty?
I have a 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 with this type of system. Had Clutch replaced one year ago, had Master Cylinder and Slave Cyliner replaced also one year ago. Clutch release bearing started making noise and would not engage, replaced release bearing, still won't engage. Replaced Master and Slave Cylinder again, Bled the system and still won't engage. What could be the issue??? Or should I have someone power bleed it?
Because you need to install the steering wheel tool in its place so the piston doesn't come out when you pump it on the master cylinder side to check it.
Hi Gary i have a 2005 Dodge Neon se 5 speed, I just changed the transmission and installed a new modular clutch and a new slave cylinder. The fluid was nasty so when i got the line off i let it all drain out and filled it back up ran it thru again till it was clean. Put in on the slave cylinder installed it and i tool a set screw a loose on the side of it and let fluid run thru it till it was full put the set screw back in, checked and filled the fluid and the instructions said pump it 50-70 times i did that a lot of times and the pedal still engages about 1 inch off the floor and if it sets a couple of days it wont go in gear running. Any Idea's where the problem could be ?
once again you show us the easy part- show us how to get the master cylinder out of the truck and how to put it back in. The little things and pins that appear impossible to remove. Thumb down. Go make cake baking videos.
+perfectionclutch I loved the videos you all have and they are extremely helpful. I had a 93' F150 that was impossible to bleed until watching your videos. That also had a roll pin but I figured that out by using common sense by seeing there wasn't any threaded connection and seeing the roll pin right above the line. In short, perfectionclutch you are absolutely correct about where the emphasis should be put. Thanks again for all the videos, it also helped tremendously when I had to figure out how to disconnect the quick connect on the concentric slave cylinder. Thanks perfectioncluth
Thanks so much for your video. Your other videos really helped me with my ranger. But I have to comment...you clamped down your vice on the mounting threads. I winced when I saw that. You should put some nuts on and clamp down on the nuts.
Awesome, I didn't push the rod in, when trying to bleed it, it just about disengages the clutch, Hopefully will be on the road after finished bleeding it.
How can you not be grateful to this genius of an idea. I have tried many methods and seeing many videos but this method tops all of the other! It's Christmas Eve, I have been struggling with my car for A month!! I have faith this is it. Thank you!! Best Christmas present I had for knowledge!!
Best video I've yet to see on RUclips. Thank you
Thank you so very much for posting the video. My son has a 04 dakota with the v8. The clutch slave cylinder went out. He bought one from Auto Zone where he works. Everyone told him it would not work. He will have to buy a pre-bled system from dodge for $350.00. I watched your video, and said it can't hurt to try it. Took the hydrolic system off like you said, bench bled it, put it back on, and works like a brand new one. Thank you sir.
This method is the quickest and the best. I tried everything to bleed a honda clutch hydraulic system, 2 man method, vacuum method, gravity bleed method, 2 master cylinders, 2 repair kits, 2 slave cylinders, 1 liter of brake fluid, still no pressure. After I saw this, couple of pumps and what the heck, it's got pressure. Thanks a lot boss !
for a month now my truck has been out of commision after having a shop replace the flywheel, the cluth, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, clutch fork, master cylinder and slave cylinder. after watching this I called them and asked how they bled the system, my 1990 ford f150 has the same setup u used as an axample and it turns out they bled like u would a brake system. there is no bleeder screw and its not self bleeding im going in tomorrow and doing this myself. incredibly helpful video and ill update with the results tomorrow
Fantastic video! Thankyou so much.... was trying to bleed system for over an hour with no luck. Tried your method and bingo! Back on the road!
I paid bucks deluxe to have a new clutch installed on my 90 Chevy K1500 4X4 which included a rebuilt Slave Cylinder and now six months later the Slave Cylinder is ka-put. This professionally done video is going to save me many dollars, because I can do this!
This video saved me much heartache when replacing just the clutch master cylinder on my '95 Jeep Wrangler. Coincidentally, I realized after I got back out to the garage that the master cylinder I bought (from Advance Auto) was actually a Perfection brand part!
Great that I found this video Will tackle my Citroen C3 Picasso tomorrow.
Excellent video.
Best instructions ever !
Thank you sir! That's the only way to bleed these freaking clutches. They can be a big pain in the a**. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Loved your video. It was a great help.
OK. Now I know what to do. Day 3 of bleeding this clutch😣
Thank you for your video. I had messed up pretty bad. And it was a closed system.
Thanks Gary, finally I can fix my car
Sweet, going to bench bleed the 84 e150, thanks for the great video!
Thanks for the post.
Thanks Garry, I appreciate the video. Thanks for the knowledge.
Back again, Ha google is keeping track of my maintenance ! 3 Years on slave cyl....
Now I see it! Great video
This is probably a stupid question, but ive never done this before and need to lol what happens when you take the steering gear puller off? Does the piston just stay on there? Or how do you get the pushrod put back on once system is pressurized?
thanks for sharing your knowledge this video was of great help for me !!!!
This is exactly what I need to do on my 97 Saturn SL2
Mighty vacuum pump tool kit...use the brake bleeder part of the kit..use a narrow adapter with a point end in the reservoir and suck the air out of the system..works like magic easy!
No it pulls trapped air up..been wrenching 40 years and it really works!
Think how your brake hydraulic system works...they put the bleeder on the top of the system...the clutch system the bleeder is on the bottom of the system...that is why the vacuum method pulls the air up the natural way it wants to flow but it is trapped...the vacuum pump kit 25136 sells for $35.00 at Autozone.These clutch systems have caused countless hours of flustration to many DIY'ers and proffesional mechanics.
What do you do if the hard line had a lot of bends and curves that could trap air? Also, the car i am working on has a clip that prevents you from bench bleeding the whole system and then installing it. I would have to disconnect one of the lines after bench bleeding it to install it. How would you go about bleeding a system like that? Thanks.
thank you so so much... very helpful and much apprecated.
thank you. periyakulam.pichaimani
My master cylinder push rod isnt moving? 3rd time pulling out unit. Gets a few miles down the road, sounds like grinding
Hey thanks for the vid. I have a 92 Chevy Silverado 1500K and my starter went out. i had to take off the two bolts to my slave cylinder in order to move it out of the way and drop my starter, however; when I replaced the slave, the clutch would not move. I could not press it down. There is no bleeder valve to bleed it. Prior to my starter going out, the clutch always went to the floor. I had tried to adjust it but no adjustment screw at the pedal. So, if I depress the piston of the clutch slave a few times while the reservoir is full and lid is off, that will bleed it? Now what about putting the slave back into the bellhousing without that retainer strap that I think I lost. The strap that is meant to break the first time the clutch is pressed. It was hanging off the slave when I took it out of the bellhousing to drop my starter. I didn't know what it was or why it was there. Also my truck would not start after I replaced the starter. I was told i needed to push in the clutch in order for truck to start. But it was in neutral is that true even if in neutral.
Pls help. anyone??? I can't go to the store or get my kids to school without transportation and im running out of option. Thank you .
Stuck like chuck
When it's just a matter of a bit of air in the hydraulic clutch system causing the clutch to engage at the bottom of the stroke I've had success by just filling the master cylinder and very rapidly pumping the clutch pedal until the bubbles find their way out...You will gradually feel increased pedal pressure as the air works it's way out. It could take several hundred strokes but still a lot easier than what you went through in this video. My method may or may not work on a completely empty system....I've never been there.
Ive seen people doing this , rapid pumping of pedal , but it can damage the rubber seal , pumping rapidly like that . Slow action of the pedal is best , in my experience, as perfection clutch says , depends on system but , rapid movement of pedal will do damage in long run. certainly if a dry spot occurs during bleeding at the seal against wall of cyclinder.
Yep i agree totally perfection clutch. I fitted a handy one today on a citroen , just hand pumped the air out of it almost like you done here in video .
It sure is , i was lucky today :-) very little curves r anything in the pipe on the one today.
Looking for VW VANAGON SYNCRO CLUTCH SLAVE CYL AND MASTER CYL, REPLACE
ohhhhh,Que Dios lo bendiga señor,me saco de un problema,ya me estaba preocupando, muy buen video☆☆☆☆☆
Great video going to see if this works on my bike ktm
I have an 87 Dodge D-100 I have been fighting the air in a new master and slave cylinder. The slave does have a set screw bleeder. Can I use the bleeding method you just demonstrated to bleed the system without using the set screw bleeder?
Looking for a vid on 95 f150. Master repliaced and still spongey but i get a clear fluid stream from the bleed screw. Im stuck
my hydraulic system has a bleed screw on the slave cylinder but not the master clutch cylinder. I can't get the slave to bleed when I open the bleeder screw nothing comes out at all not even a drop of fluid. I disconnected the quick release and pushed down on the fuel hole looking thing that started flowing out all of the fluid. does this mean my slave is bad? I just bought it could it be faulty?
The one tool you need to successfully complete this job is patience .
I have a 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 with this type of system. Had Clutch replaced one year ago, had Master Cylinder and Slave Cyliner replaced also one year ago. Clutch release bearing started making noise and would not engage, replaced release bearing, still won't engage. Replaced Master and Slave Cylinder again, Bled the system and still won't engage. What could be the issue??? Or should I have someone power bleed it?
Bom dia, gastei. Eu tenho um problema de embreagem. O pedal custumas vazar. Mazda BT 50 2020. Caixa manual. Oque faço?
I have a 96 GMC SIERRA 1500 5.7 where is the slave cylinder located?
hey I have a dodge ram 1999 and I just recently replaced a baring it was running very smooth then when I try to shift gears in wont let me
can you just leave the piston bar on and just push it in and out? why do you have to remove the piston bar on the slave
Because you need to install the steering wheel tool in its place so the piston doesn't come out when you pump it on the master cylinder side to check it.
the background noise makes me wonder if your in some city in India,
One important question is do you know JESUS CHRIST AS YOUR PERSONAL LORD AND SAVIOR?
Hi Gary i have a 2005 Dodge Neon se 5 speed, I just changed the transmission and installed a new modular clutch and a new slave cylinder. The fluid was nasty so when i got the line off i let it all drain out and filled it back up ran it thru again till it was clean. Put in on the slave cylinder installed it and i tool a set screw a loose on the side of it and let fluid run thru it till it was full put the set screw back in, checked and filled the fluid and the instructions said pump it 50-70 times i did that a lot of times and the pedal still engages about 1 inch off the floor and if it sets a couple of days it wont go in gear running. Any Idea's where the problem could be ?
Awesome
From experince hat is the best if not the only way
Eres bueno grandpa
You kept sucking air back into the line because you did not FILL the reservoir ALL the way to the TOP!
First
once again you show us the easy part- show us how to get the master cylinder out of the truck and how to put it back in.
The little things and pins that appear impossible to remove.
Thumb down. Go make cake baking videos.
+perfectionclutch I loved the videos you all have and they are extremely helpful. I had a 93' F150 that was impossible to bleed until watching your videos. That also had a roll pin but I figured that out by using common sense by seeing there wasn't any threaded connection and seeing the roll pin right above the line. In short, perfectionclutch you are absolutely correct about where the emphasis should be put. Thanks again for all the videos, it also helped tremendously when I had to figure out how to disconnect the quick connect on the concentric slave cylinder. Thanks perfectioncluth
Thanks so much for your video. Your other videos really helped me with my ranger. But I have to comment...you clamped down your vice on the mounting threads. I winced when I saw that. You should put some nuts on and clamp down on the nuts.
Awesome, I didn't push the rod in, when trying to bleed it, it just about disengages the clutch, Hopefully will be on the road after finished bleeding it.
Thank you so much!!! Made it so much more understandable!!! Saved me a bunch of time and money!!! My jeep shifts great now!!
Como sangrar bomba de cliché de Mercedes 2005
thanks very much not much experiece with this american trucks and you just answered my million dollar question....
how is this better than a bleeder valve on the slave?
Thank you for the class . thumbs up !!!
How can you not be grateful to this genius of an idea. I have tried many methods and seeing many videos but this method tops all of the other! It's Christmas Eve, I have been struggling with my car for A month!! I have faith this is it. Thank you!! Best Christmas present I had for knowledge!!