I'm excited as you are CT, You are fortunate to have Darrin show you what to do, he seems like a good person to learn with, you are almost done with the most critical part of your restoration which is the engine, now I won't be yelling at you to DO THE ENGINE! now you can concentrate on the engine bay and brakes etc. great job .
The engine looks fantastic CT! It was a great decision to get someone who can show you as you go and still let you get that hands-on experience with it also. Darrin is awesome ! Looking forward to hearing that baby purr. Great video and really informative. I like that plaque in the garage that said "Pain is temporary, quitting is forever" So true! Really enjoying seeing everything come together. See ya!
Hey Mike! Yes, it looks nice and it's going to run great! Darrin really knows what he is doing. He has been building engines for 40 years! I couldn't ask for anything more. His is awesome! Yes, that plaque in his garage is pretty cool. Thank you! Stay tuned! =)
Wow, those racing engines and the pics brought back some fun memories. The "guru" that built my engine in a '65 bug was Wolfsburg trained in Germany. Fired because of his love of tequila. In '71 it cost me over 4k$ just for the engine rebuild. He never told me all he did, the obvious when the lid was popped were the dual two barrel webbers. Won a LOT of money running against 283 & 289 "V8s. The last time on the 1/4 mile I shut down at about 50yards shy of the traps and still won at 117mph.
Hey Donnie! Wow that is pretty cool man! Sounds like you had some fun in that 65. Do you still own it? You have to watch out for that tequila! =) Thank you! Stay tuned! =)
I am taking on the task of rebuilding my 72 VW westy engine and your videos have been very helpful. Can't wait to have it on the road for the first time!
I needed this guy walk me through my engine when I had my pan buggy. I was scared to even touch it cause it was a air cooled engine. The older guy who built it when he was in his teens passed away. He was probably around 70 when he passed. I ended up selling it back to his son so he could keep it within the family since his father built it. I really do wish I still had it though. Great video
Great video CT and VW Darrin! Love all the technical stuff, but "mosquitoes are the state bird" made me laugh! Good to see some more major progress for CT and Rusty- these things take time, so it's extra fun when it moves fast!
Hi Greg! It was an amazing time! Can't wait to do it again! He might come over to my garage next. Stay tuned for that! You'll hear it run it the next video.
I knew you would get you prioritys in a row. You picked the Right Guy to help you out.....Now you can rebuild the Ghia next. Today i was working on my Baja and had a slight Grinder accident, 8 stiches in my left hand. But that will only slow me down a little. Now back to body work.
Hi CT, Awesome almost complete. Can't wait to see it run on the next video. Thanks to Darrin showing and explaining the distributor gear install. I've seen it done before but the explanation is what I was interested in. Good job👍
Interesting. I saw he was using what are called nylock nuts as opposed to steel lock nuts for higher temp uses. I had to make a temp field repair on my plane when the exhaust nut decided to bail mid flight. My preflight caught it and all I could get at the small field was a nylock. Made a bit of a mess inside the cowling when the nylon melted. Great explanations given by your mentor there.
I had a 40 horse in a 64 Bug back in the day. There was a running change in valve clearance mid year. I guessed wrong and burned the exh valves out. I put a 1600 in it an it was ok but basically trouble. Had I rebuilt the 40 I'd still be driving it 40 years on. Nice to see that 40.
👍👍👍 neat seeing all the differences between the 40 hp, opposed to the newer engines. Glad your not putting a 200 hp. 3 liter with ....9 carburetors or a Subaru engine, In your bus. 53 hp was all I was looking for in my car. Part of the charm you know. 😀😀
Floor jack on a sheet of plywood in the back yard, lying ony back, it was some fun. I thought I just had a bad muffler before learning my heads we're loose. I was really happy when it fired up.
Also if you look at the left-hand side of the muffler, there is a tube that comes down from the pre-heat Pipe underneath the carburetor on the intake. Your exhaust tip has to go in the muffler far enough. It will make a low pressure in that preheat pipe. If you have The tip close enough. Bernoulli’s law you know. It will cause the exhaust gas from the right side to circulate through your pre-heat pipe. And your carburetor won’t ice up. It’s probably the most overlooked thing in a Volkswagen engine build. And it’s very important. Because without the preheat pipe warm, your spark plugs will be sooty, your engine will run rich/poorly , and your preheat pipe will coke up and close. Take a wooden dowel and stick it in the left-hand hole. Put a mark on it when it bottoms on the tube inside. The Mark should be just on the outside flange of the exhaust, of course the mark is on the wooden dowel. pull the dowel out, and measure the amount on the tip. Shove the tip all the way in until it bottoms on the tube inside the muffler. Is the mark the same? Yes? OK back it out about a 3/4 inch, this should be sufficient room to exhaust, and will cause a low pressure in that tube when the exhaust is rushing by exiting the muffler. You can test to see if it’s working, by starting the engine cold and seeing if the right side seat riser pipe is getting warm. It should get warmer right away, and within a minute it should be almost too hot to touch. Of course the left side is going to be less warm because it’s going to draw from the right. Does that make sense? You can test to see if it’s working, by starting the engine cold and seeing if the right side heat riser pipe is getting warm. It should get warm right away, and within a minute it should be almost too hot to touch. Of course the left side is going to be less warm because it’s going to draw from the right. Does that make sense? Like I said it’s really important. And a lot of people don’t no this. You can look in your Bentley book, and see this. It gives you measurements for German parts. Remember that term German parts. That’s original Volkswagen parts. Are yours original? Probably not. And probably not made exactly like the German parts. So it’s hard to go by the book on this. And now I’ll shut my big yapper 🤐🤐🤐
Well done. Both guys acting like well skilled and experienced german Volkswagen mechanics in the early 19 sixties but it is a grateful engine anyway. The manufacturer of exhaust, FL (EFF ELL) obviously an old german automotive supplier which does not exist anymore. Interesting.
Muy buen armando , es un motor sin utilizar radiador de agua , es de ventilacion por turbo interno y es muy bueno cuando arma con las piezas original del mismo modelo de motor ,. Saludos a los mecanico desde aqui ( Argentina )
Good sunday morning from Dalsbruk and thak you for a good video. Guess what we called the tool used at 44:15 here in Finland? "a nut lathe". If it slip you'll got at "rouded nut"... Than you probably used the finnish word "PERKELE"....
16:09 The crank was turned 10 thou , but had Standard bearings on it? Wow how did it have any oil pressure? CT remember when you ran this engine? And it ran so good? And I told you just clean it up and put it back in the bus? I’m glad you checked it all out inside, because it wouldn’t of lasted long like that.
Yes, well when I went to rebuild it the first time we ordered the wrong bearings and we had some other things wrong too. Good thing Darrin took over and made things right. He is the man! I couldn't have done it without him.
Excellent job on that VW engine rebuild. My only concern are those holes such as the intake and distributor access should be capped when not working on them. One mistake that a nuts, bolts or any small objects that could accidentally dropped in there would waste a lot of time of your hard work
What type of grease was used to coat the rings and is that thread lock on the case nuts oozing out in red? And I wish you could have zoomed in on the torque wrench adjustments instead of away from view. Very interesting regardless!
It would have nice to see a new oil cooler installed. They are. around $100.I have confidence that if Darrin felt the old cooler was good, you'll be fine. It's just that if it's the original ,it is nearly 60 years old.The older ones were probably made better anyway
Another excellent one, awesome to hear his knowledge about engine rebuilding. I have around 100,000 miles on my engine, and it’s still running really strong. I have been thinking about doing a couple of things just to refresh the engine. Since you are removing the heater box, what about those times when it rains and you need to defrost the window?
Thank you! Wow that is pretty good to have 100k and going strong. Is it a basic 1600? I won't be driving Rusty everyday. If I do need to defrost for some reason I'll keep a rag close by and open the fresh air vents. He had so many holes it shouldn't be an issue. =) I do plan on restoring the heater boxes so maybe we will add them back on at a later time. Thank you! Stay tuned for part (3) =)
wat does CT STANDS FOR N TRUTH AND REALITY( CT , GARRAGE) D 2 OF U HU REPTESENTS C.T. CORRECT AND TRUTHFUL( DEDICATION ON D JOB) ,ANOTHER CORRECT TECHNIQUE , UR FUN TASK STICK GUYS , EXCELLENT JOB , U AMUSED ME, THANKS AND GODBLESS!
I always found that inserting the push-rod while you're installing the push-rod tubes kept them from falling out should you shift them out too much (especially during the installation of the last tube).
A couple of questions I have. What was the white gunk used to seal between the barrels and the block? Was the paper gasket in there as well? Why not have used the same sealant as used elsewhere (Permatex?). Also I see that copper compression rings were used on the heads. I believe they were not used in production, not sure but I guess if you are using them they must be effective.
Was this the engine left out in the rains for yrs, full of water and rusted up and suddenly busted apart with the idea to have it back together and running at the end of a week??
It's all there on video. He knows way more than I will ever be able to soak up! =) That man is a wealth of knowledge and super smart too! Thanks brother!
Hi CT. Loving this series of videos. I am curious about something. Starting at about 4:10, while knocking in that retainer (not sure what it is exactly called) for the last cylinder, I noticed that one of the cylinder rings (I think he called it the wiper ring in the last video) starts showing and is fully exposed by the time he is done. Is that normal? It looks kind of odd and not like the other one from part 1 that you showed being put in. Almost like the retainer slipped past the rod instead of through it. I could of course be completely wrong (and I probably am), but I thought I would ask since it just seemed so odd to me.
Buses had a tendency to run hot on #3 cylinder, because of the oil-cooling tower and poor airflow into the engine compartment of the bus. Knew a guy once who had an old bus that dropped an exhaust valve, and during the rebuild process that we did in his basement, he had an aftermarket oil cooler and remote oil filter installed, which solved he problem handily, plus he put air scoops on the rear louvers of the bus. Never had a problem with cooling after that.
Time 19:55 Darrin called the 82 x 90.5 a 2210; I think he meant a 2110. He probably has so many engine sizes in his head. Then again, he's been at this so long, maybe he built a 2210 we're not aware of, lol.
Have built quite a few ...I bumped my tool late one night while I was turning around -like a dummy ,had left the washers/shim tool in distributor hole -and both washers went “clink -clink /clink “ -down to the bottom of engine -to my horror. Ended up having to pull whole engine apart to get out -and then back together .....ugh ....customers bus ran great after it was all done ...but I think I aged 10 years that night ....
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Check out Darrin's Channel:
ruclips.net/user/vwdarrinvideos
Thank you Darrin
@@dneos cccqccccccçcç
@@dneos1
what about light grade loctite for head bolts keeps bolts from rattling loose over time
I'm excited as you are CT, You are fortunate to have Darrin show you what to do, he seems like a good person to learn with, you are almost done with the most critical part of your restoration which is the engine, now I won't be yelling at you to DO THE ENGINE! now you can concentrate on the engine bay and brakes etc. great job .
Hey Tom! I'm am very fortunate indeed! He has been a life saver for Rusty! Yes, it's going toe awesome! Thank you! Stay tuned! =)
Awesome video CT . Nice work Guys 👍
Thanks man! It was fun! Can't wait ti get it in Rusty and drive him down the road! =)
Darien needs to start a weekend class for old school VW enthusiasts. 👍🏾
Hey Fergus! That would be awesome! Thanks for watching! =)
The engine looks fantastic CT! It was a great decision to get someone who can show you as you go and still let you get that hands-on experience with it also. Darrin is awesome ! Looking forward to hearing that baby purr. Great video and really informative. I like that plaque in the garage that said "Pain is temporary, quitting is forever" So true! Really enjoying seeing everything come together. See ya!
Hey Mike! Yes, it looks nice and it's going to run great! Darrin really knows what he is doing. He has been building engines for 40 years! I couldn't ask for anything more. His is awesome! Yes, that plaque in his garage is pretty cool. Thank you! Stay tuned! =)
Wow, those racing engines and the pics brought back some fun memories. The "guru" that built my engine in a '65 bug was Wolfsburg trained in Germany. Fired because of his love of tequila. In '71 it cost me over 4k$ just for the engine rebuild. He never told me all he did, the obvious when the lid was popped were the dual two barrel webbers. Won a LOT of money running against 283 & 289 "V8s. The last time on the 1/4 mile I shut down at about 50yards shy of the traps and still won at 117mph.
Hey Donnie! Wow that is pretty cool man! Sounds like you had some fun in that 65. Do you still own it? You have to watch out for that tequila! =) Thank you! Stay tuned! =)
I am taking on the task of rebuilding my 72 VW westy engine and your videos have been very helpful. Can't wait to have it on the road for the first time!
Another great video CT..!! Great to see you with VWDarrin. Can't wait to see the bus on the road one day soon..!!
Hey John! Thanks man! Darrin is awesome! YEs, soon I hope! Thank you! Stay tuned for part (3) =)
I needed this guy walk me through my engine when I had my pan buggy. I was scared to even touch it cause it was a air cooled engine. The older guy who built it when he was in his teens passed away. He was probably around 70 when he passed. I ended up selling it back to his son so he could keep it within the family since his father built it. I really do wish I still had it though. Great video
YES!!! A 2nd dose of CT and VW Darrin.... this is the way to start a Saturday morning!!
Thanks brother! =)
Looks like you guys had a great time. You learned from the best. Darren us a great guy and a vw legend in my books
Yes, It was awesome work with Darrin! He is amazing! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
Good reference video for anyone rebuilding their motor at home. Hats off to Darrin.
Thanks George! I agree. Darrin is the real deal! Thank you! Stay tuned for part (3)
Great video CT and VW Darrin! Love all the technical stuff, but "mosquitoes are the state bird" made me laugh! Good to see some more major progress for CT and Rusty- these things take time, so it's extra fun when it moves fast!
Thanks man! It was very surreal being with Darrin yet I felt right at home! =)
What a pleasure watching you guys work.
VWDARRIN is the man ! Miss his videos something terrible ! No finer VW guy to have helping you out.
Yes, he is awesome 1he just released a new video today. Go check it out.
ruclips.net/video/-QzxRKuR6yQ/видео.html
“CT in Darrin’s garage” - Making great connections along the journey. Excited to hear it run!
Hi Greg! It was an amazing time! Can't wait to do it again! He might come over to my garage next. Stay tuned for that! You'll hear it run it the next video.
Very good . Detailed assembly and tips from those who know what they do. And I loved the screw box. kkkk. Minas Gerais , Brazil
I rewatch these videos, seem to catch something new each time.
Hello Vander! Thanks my friend! It was a great experience working with Darrin! More to come! =)
@@JWClassicVW They are loaded with nuggets of gold! =)
CT I have months of following your videos I do not speak English but I love to see them as always excellent greetings from Monterrey Mexico
I knew you would get you prioritys in a row. You picked the Right Guy to help you out.....Now you can rebuild the Ghia next. Today i was working on my Baja and had a slight Grinder accident, 8 stiches in my left hand. But that will only slow me down a little. Now back to body work.
Hi CT, Awesome almost complete. Can't wait to see it run on the next video. Thanks to Darrin showing and explaining the distributor gear install. I've seen it done before but the explanation is what I was interested in. Good job👍
This is still the best. Stock, standard 40hp engine. Will run forever.......with no problems.
VW technology is For Real...
Thanks for sharing, finally understood how the engine is built
you got an old time engine builder, good for you, great content. thank you CT
Hello Elroy! Yes, Darrin is the man! He has been around an engine or two...=) Thank you! Stay tuned for part (3) =)
Wonderful great teaching of torque wrench
Darren is a lot of help CT he knows a lot that I can see
This 3 part series is really great, good footage, great skills. Its a dying art as these aircooled motors disappear from our roads.
Interesting. I saw he was using what are called nylock nuts as opposed to steel lock nuts for higher temp uses. I had to make a temp field repair on my plane when the exhaust nut decided to bail mid flight. My preflight caught it and all I could get at the small field was a nylock. Made a bit of a mess inside the cowling when the nylon melted. Great explanations given by your mentor there.
Fantastic video from a humble guy is a pleasure to watch. Thank you very much will look forward to future videos.
WOW ! the 1st. and 2 nd. part are AWESOME, it is a class well done by a master mechanic,keep on the good work,thanks.
Thank you! That means a lot! Stay tuned for part (3) =)
great job you guys. got the head gaskets in place. ready to make it rip.
Such great detail. Thank you!
Thanks John!
Can't wait to hear that engine running again. Good job both of you 😁
Me too! Thank you! Stay tuned for part (3) =)
i use a blob of grease on the distributor shims. It just stops them sliding off their seat and into the bottom of the case. He's giving good advice.
I had a 40 horse in a 64 Bug back in the day. There was a running change in valve clearance mid year. I guessed wrong and burned the exh valves out. I put a 1600 in it an it was ok but basically trouble. Had I rebuilt the 40 I'd still be driving it 40 years on. Nice to see that 40.
Excellent video. Very valuable information.
Thank you very much.!From Republic of Kosova.
👍👍👍 neat seeing all the differences between the 40 hp, opposed to the newer engines.
Glad your not putting a 200 hp. 3 liter with ....9 carburetors or a Subaru engine, In your bus.
53 hp was all I was looking for in my car. Part of the charm you know. 😀😀
Yes, I really like the old vintage stock engines. There is just something special about that factory design! =)
Thanks for watching! Stay tuned for Part (3)
Ct i have the picture for you send email
@@kevinstone1614 ctmoog@gmail.com
can't wait to see this engine run and thats one step closer to Rusty's first drive
@@The_ExplodingMicrowave Yes, it's going to be awesome! Stay tuned!
Great vid, Darrin certainly knows his stuff. Would love to see that muffler in black, like the j tubes.
I appreciate that! Yes, he is very talented! Thank you! Stay tuned! =)
Excellent part 2! Can’t wait to see it runnin! 👍
Nice to see the progress. Still waiting for the first run.
Thanks man! It's coming soon!
Great series, and good filming!!!!!
Great work guy hello of Maracay, Venezuela.
Floor jack on a sheet of plywood in the back yard, lying ony back, it was some fun. I thought I just had a bad muffler before learning my heads we're loose. I was really happy when it fired up.
I added an external oil cooler to my '68 beetle, no frills dependable car I drove for 12 years.
Brings back old memories.
Shop`s nice and clean. Like a surgical bay for motors.
This man was great, wow. we wait for next,
Darrin is amazing! He is really smart and very experienced! Thank you! Stay tuned for part (3) =)
Perfect! Can't wait for part 3!
Hey Oliver! I'm glad you like it. It's coming soon! Thank you! Stay tuned! =)
Also if you look at the left-hand side of the muffler, there is a tube that comes down from the pre-heat Pipe underneath the carburetor on the intake. Your exhaust tip has to go in the muffler far enough. It will make a low pressure in that preheat pipe. If you have The tip close enough. Bernoulli’s law you know. It will cause the exhaust gas from the right side to circulate through your pre-heat pipe. And your carburetor won’t ice up. It’s probably the most overlooked thing in a Volkswagen engine build. And it’s very important. Because without the preheat pipe warm, your spark plugs will be sooty, your engine will run rich/poorly , and your preheat pipe will coke up and close.
Take a wooden dowel and stick it in the left-hand hole. Put a mark on it when it bottoms on the tube inside. The Mark should be just on the outside flange of the exhaust, of course the mark is on the wooden dowel. pull the dowel out, and measure the amount on the tip.
Shove the tip all the way in until it bottoms on the tube inside the muffler. Is the mark the same? Yes? OK back it out about a 3/4 inch, this should be sufficient room to exhaust, and will cause a low pressure in that tube when the exhaust is rushing by exiting the muffler.
You can test to see if it’s working, by starting the engine cold and seeing if the right side seat riser pipe is getting warm. It should get warmer right away, and within a minute it should be almost too hot to touch. Of course the left side is going to be less warm because it’s going to draw from the right. Does that make sense?
You can test to see if it’s working, by starting the engine cold and seeing if the right side heat riser pipe is getting warm. It should get warm right away, and within a minute it should be almost too hot to touch. Of course the left side is going to be less warm because it’s going to draw from the right. Does that make sense?
Like I said it’s really important. And a lot of people don’t no this. You can look in your Bentley book, and see this. It gives you measurements for German parts. Remember that term German parts. That’s original Volkswagen parts. Are yours original? Probably not. And probably not made exactly like the German parts. So it’s hard to go by the book on this.
And now I’ll shut my big yapper 🤐🤐🤐
Can’t wait to hear this baby purr again!
Hey Thomas! Me too! It's coming! Thank you! Stay tuned! =)
The best channel. Thank You.
WOW! =) Thank you! Stay tuned for part (3) =)
Useful video thanks
rusty exhaust studs do benefit from copper paste. I never put those on dry. Never had an issue taking them back off
Awesome video!! So educational!!
Thank you! Stay tuned for part (3)
Can't wait for see this engine running. 😄
Hey Pedro! Me too! It will be soon! Thank you! Stay tuned! =)
Well done. Both guys acting like well skilled and experienced german Volkswagen mechanics in the early 19 sixties but it is a grateful engine anyway. The manufacturer of exhaust, FL (EFF ELL) obviously an old german automotive supplier which does not exist anymore. Interesting.
Hey Michael! Yes, it was great hanging out with Darrin. Being a German mechanic in the 60s sounds like fun! =)
It's goo to see that you went to Darrin's or professional help.
Hey Alan! Yes, It was really excited when he said yes! It's been a huge relief! Thank you! Stay tuned! =)
permatex aviation grade 80019 darrin uses it alot and Loves Its leak blocking capacity !
Nossa✌️ distribuidor com platinado 😎😎😎😎 original 🙏👍
Volks Wagen Darrin is a magician with engines
Muy buen armando , es un motor sin utilizar radiador de agua , es de ventilacion por turbo interno y es muy bueno cuando arma con las piezas original del mismo modelo de motor ,. Saludos a los mecanico desde aqui ( Argentina )
Cant wait to hear this engine!
Hey Daniel! It's coming soon! Thank you! Stay tuned for part (3) =)
@@CTmoog 😍
part of the trick for a cooler motor is a type 3 cilinder plate below the cilinders?
Man so close to the start up. Have you bit your nails off yet? Another great video CT.
Yes, all chewed up! =) Thanks Ron!
Wooaa 👍👍 👍👏 👏👍👍🇻🇳 Thanks
THANK YOU! =)
preparing to build one of these, what's the white compound you used to seal the jugs? thanks for sharing all this info for future generations :)
Have never paid too much attention to 40 hp assembly but o rings on the jugs??? Second I saw those I was like whooaaahhhh what do those do.
Also never seen those orings before. U learn something every day. Lol
Yes, the 40hp has some interesting differences. I've learned a few things on this one. Thank you! Stay tuned! =)
@@ebutuoyebutouy everyday is something new! =) Thank you! Stay tuned! =)
Good sunday morning from Dalsbruk and thak you for a good video. Guess what we called the tool used at 44:15 here in Finland? "a nut lathe". If it slip you'll got at "rouded nut"... Than you probably used the finnish word "PERKELE"....
16:09 The crank was turned 10 thou , but had Standard bearings on it? Wow how did it have any oil pressure? CT remember when you ran this engine? And it ran so good? And I told you just clean it up and put it back in the bus?
I’m glad you checked it all out inside, because it wouldn’t of lasted long like that.
Yes, well when I went to rebuild it the first time we ordered the wrong bearings and we had some other things wrong too. Good thing Darrin took over and made things right. He is the man! I couldn't have done it without him.
@@CTmoog 👍👍👍
Excellent job on that VW engine rebuild. My only concern are those holes such as the intake and distributor access should be capped when not working on them. One mistake that a nuts, bolts or any small objects that could accidentally dropped in there would waste a lot of time of your hard work
What type of grease was used to coat the rings and is that thread lock on the case nuts oozing out in red? And I wish you could have zoomed in on the torque wrench adjustments instead of away from view. Very interesting regardless!
This has been great help to me 👍 thanks so much ! One question is what did you use to seal the piston barrels to the case ?
It would have nice to see a new oil cooler installed. They are. around $100.I have confidence that if Darrin felt the old cooler was good, you'll be fine. It's just that if it's the original ,it is nearly 60 years old.The older ones were probably made better anyway
Another excellent one, awesome to hear his knowledge about engine rebuilding. I have around 100,000 miles on my engine, and it’s still running really strong. I have been thinking about doing a couple of things just to refresh the engine. Since you are removing the heater box, what about those times when it rains and you need to defrost the window?
Thank you! Wow that is pretty good to have 100k and going strong. Is it a basic 1600? I won't be driving Rusty everyday. If I do need to defrost for some reason I'll keep a rag close by and open the fresh air vents. He had so many holes it shouldn't be an issue. =) I do plan on restoring the heater boxes so maybe we will add them back on at a later time. Thank you! Stay tuned for part (3) =)
CT Yep, a 1600 with an extra oil sump and a dog house. If you take care of them, 1600 are bulletproof
Hola amigo de donde eres gracias por compartir tus conocimiento
What's the "dragon blood" grey stuff on the cylinder skirts?
the red oil on the rockers
I did it 3 times on my car it was 1200 cc...the best part it is not heavy, it's all aluminum
Hey Nilo, nice work buddy! =)
Magnesium not aluminum, don't believe it then put a cutting torch to a cracked unusable block and stand back.
That's really good news, man!
THANK YOU! =)
Hi. What did you use that gray stuff between the cylinders and the block? Nice job.
wat does CT STANDS FOR N TRUTH AND REALITY( CT , GARRAGE) D 2 OF U HU REPTESENTS C.T. CORRECT AND TRUTHFUL( DEDICATION ON D JOB) ,ANOTHER CORRECT TECHNIQUE , UR FUN TASK STICK GUYS , EXCELLENT JOB , U AMUSED ME, THANKS AND GODBLESS!
What type of sealer do you use on the cylinders? Do you have to anneal the copper gaskets? Why do you need them?
Big hug from friend Marcos Polux Brasil,
Hello Marcos! Thank you! Big hugs back! =) Thank you! Stay tuned for part (3)
I always found that inserting the push-rod while you're installing the push-rod tubes kept them from falling out should you shift them out too much (especially during the installation of the last tube).
A couple of questions I have. What was the white gunk used to seal between the barrels and the block? Was the paper gasket in there as well? Why not have used the same sealant as used elsewhere (Permatex?). Also I see that copper compression rings were used on the heads. I believe they were not used in production, not sure but I guess if you are using them they must be effective.
Alomost there CT!👍
Nice!! Great video... :-)
FINALLY!!! CT got help !! LOL
Yes! it's awesome! I'm having a blast and Darrin is really cool! Thank you! Stay tuned for part (3) =)
So, is scooter with us anymore? Sounds like a fella to meet.
Was this the engine left out in the rains for yrs, full of water and rusted up and suddenly busted apart with the idea to have it back together and running at the end of a week??
I do not know VW engines but how does the rocker gear get lubricated
Sure hope you’re able to soak up what he’s teaching.... although I doubt any of us could soak it all up on one visit.
It's all there on video. He knows way more than I will ever be able to soak up! =) That man is a wealth of knowledge and super smart too! Thanks brother!
Hi CT. Loving this series of videos. I am curious about something. Starting at about 4:10, while knocking in that retainer (not sure what it is exactly called) for the last cylinder, I noticed that one of the cylinder rings (I think he called it the wiper ring in the last video) starts showing and is fully exposed by the time he is done. Is that normal? It looks kind of odd and not like the other one from part 1 that you showed being put in. Almost like the retainer slipped past the rod instead of through it. I could of course be completely wrong (and I probably am), but I thought I would ask since it just seemed so odd to me.
ดีครับ
Buses had a tendency to run hot on #3 cylinder, because of the oil-cooling tower and poor airflow into the engine compartment of the bus. Knew a guy once who had an old bus that dropped an exhaust valve, and during the rebuild process that we did in his basement, he had an aftermarket oil cooler and remote oil filter installed, which solved he problem handily, plus he put air scoops on the rear louvers of the bus. Never had a problem with cooling after that.
dude please, when tightening the cylinder head, start from the inner bolt and then tighten the outer bolt, that is, from the inside out. Ok👍🙂
He didn't line up the distributor drive gear right. The notch on the drive gear should line up with the front fuel pump stud before inserting it.
Time 19:55 Darrin called the 82 x 90.5 a 2210; I think he meant a 2110. He probably has so many engine sizes in his head. Then again, he's been at this so long, maybe he built a 2210 we're not aware of, lol.
Cool men continud
Thank you! Stay tuned for part (3)
pistons are assembled first!!
The engine is beautiful. It would be a shame to put it inside a rusty engine bay
i think he is going to repaint the engine bay
I was just thinking, “now he just needs something to put it in.......”
Yes, I agree. We are going to paint the engine Bay Area. It's going to be awesome! Stay tuned!
@@walter68bug98 Hey Walter, yes, that's the plan! Stay tuned!
@@notajp Hey John, It's going in Rusty! We will paint the engine bay like new. Thank you! Stay tuned! =)
Have built quite a few ...I bumped my tool late one night while I was turning around -like a dummy ,had left the washers/shim tool in distributor hole -and both washers went “clink -clink /clink “ -down to the bottom of engine -to my horror. Ended up having to pull whole engine apart to get out -and then back together .....ugh ....customers bus ran great after it was all done ...but I think I aged 10 years that night ....