This method worked well for an old classical guitar with no truss rod. Since the classical guitar has no inlays, I placed the hot iron set hot directly on the frets for about 20 minutes. Then I took the iron off and left it clamped for 24 hours. It turned an unplayable guitar back into an instrument of joy. Thanks for the idea!
Hi Victor, Almost 60 years ago I was given a 1940's German Archtop acoustic by my sister in law ( she passed away last year) to replace a guitar that my brother made at school. She used to play in a skiffle group. I took lessons and then gigged this guitar for years, when a drunk fell on it and the neck came off. I got it repaired but the tech said it does not play well as the neck is bowed due to it's age. I bought a new guitar and the archtop went in the attic for the next thirty years. I had a lot of sentimental reasons for this guitar,.When I saw your video whilst looking for something else I decided to give it a go - It worked like a dream and the neck is now straight it sounds out of this world. I am going to do a re-fret and mount a De'Armour pickup and give it a good polishing. Thanks for the best lesson on youtube. Regards and a Happy New Year Frank
Hi Frank... That is fantastic news, well done! This is not a fool-proof method and it does not always work but I am glad it worked for you. Let me know how you get on with the upgrades. Victor...
I just did this and it freakin worked!! Just wanted to let you know that your video saved me about 500 bucks!! Thank you so much man, there’s stuff all over the internet and I went with your solution and it actually worked. Thank you thank you!!
Today I was quoted $500 for refretting and sanding my flamenco guitar neck because they said this heating technique would not work. I said f that, went to home depot and got a couple clamps for $30, slapped an iron on the board for 20 minutes, let it cool and 2 hours later my guitar is shredding like the day I got it in Spain. I am aware that this technique might take a few tries to become permanent, but it is good to know I can fix it myself. Thanks so much for sharing this method!
It did work! Fixed 2 peavey t-20 basses from the early 80s. Thanks again budn. Saved me between 200-600$ and learned a skill. This does work people! No bullshit!
I have a baritone Yamaha which had a back bow and after a few attempts to fix it I found the best method. Clamp the guitar fret side down on e.g. a work mate bench with a small piece of timber underneath where the bow starts . Make sure that there is a small felt pad on the clamps to avoid damaging the neck. Take a wet flannel and a steam iron on the hot steam setting and steam for aprox ten-15 minutes. Leave for a couple of days then un clamp. Make sure before you do all of this that your truss rod is completely slackened off. My neck came out as straight as a die and even though as it was a baritone with heavier gauge strings it has remained true. The guitar would have been a write off to pay for a repair and this will cost you nothing. The piece of timber I used just wider than the fretboard and aprox 2-3 mm thick just enough that if a slight forward bow was put in it could be easily adjusted with the truss rod.
Thanks for your input (great methods) :) I use steam myself. This was just an example for this particular guitar. Check my series on Warwick Bass truss rod removal and replacement (the neck was twisted, warped, bent and uneven in all ways imaginable and I got it straight) here ruclips.net/p/PLhMXQIXvmBZw_MPfAaFWvH85-DvY1H3GI It took a lot of work but I made it like new...
@@FretFriendGWaL It was easier because it was a bolt on neck. My friend who has been a Luthier all his life was a little bit sceptical and did not think it was a worth the cost of a repair but said it should be O,K as the melting temperature of the glue would probably not effect the finger board. He was right and I have not yet updated him on the success considering the neck was varnished.
I'm doing a mix of the video method and your method given here. Got a vintage guild in with a maxed out truss rod and still too much relief in the neck. Basically set my guitar up how the video is, let off the truss rod completely, got a damp flannel shirt, and have an iron with max steam going. Only bad part is the auto off feature so I'm standing here babysitting it. I'll have an update in a day or two once it's all done.
I am about to endeavor on this journey myself. I have an old Silvertone full size acoustic that is a beauty but it doubles as a drawn bow and arrow! Thanks for tips!
Thanks! I have a fender bass that has a bend that has a permanent bend and the truss rud nut is bottomed out. When I do tighten it to the max it does help - but I want to lower the action regardless. This is the approach I am going to take to at least straighten it out a bit
I hope it works! You could try this: If you can remove the truss rod adjuster, do so and put a washer that fits between the truss rod and adjuster then refit the adjuster. This will give you extra adjustment. Victor...
Guitar company like Aria use to sell guitar neck iron with clamps Then they stopped cos the want you to bye new instrument no worthy if you can fix your guitar for them
Did this with a detached bolt-on neck (strat) which suffered from excessive bow. I used a combo of letting the neck sit on a regular hot-water heat radiator for 30 mins - then gently clamping it onto a straight plank of wood - with 5 layers of cardboard at each end (very slowly bending the frets down towards the plank) - while in this position, I aimed a couple of hairdryers back and forth along the neck to evenly spread the heat. Then incrementally tightened the clamps - till it sat with a back-bow for about 15 - 20 mins. It worked out very well! Almost perfectly straight now🤘🤘
Thanks for the videos, I've watched several that have been really useful. Especially these methods that avoid having to buy expensive tools. I'm trying to rescue an old burns bass.
Glad to hear this works for a lot of people, tried a variation of this with a bowed fender maple neck (no fretboard) and it didnt work. I had it lay flat on my toaster oven and clamped it down , the toaster oven has a warmer on the top so it really did transfer the heat good that the wood got hot to the touch even. But after heating for 15-20 mins and leaving it for 24hrs i dont even notice a slight change when removing the clamp- still bowed. I figure it was just my setup, there was enough bow in the neck that laying it down fret first left a big enough gap, so i clamped it there to the toaster oven frame and it got petty flat, but maybe i have to bend it back further than straight so it sets straight? Couldnt really do that with my setup so im willing to try the videos method but not not sure it will help after seeing nothing here and thinking about just going ahead and replacing the truss rod. Any tips/ suggestions would be appreciated.
Over-bend it! I do that when I have a stubborn neck. Just a little to start with and keep checking every couple of hours. You are coaxing the wood to hopefullly go back into it's default position. I have had necks not straighten too: you have to get some moisture/heat in there and as mentioned, you sometimes have to over-bend. Victor...
I am going to try this tonight! I left an acoustic guitar resting upright against the wall in a humid area of the house a while ago and made my action to high. I hope to fix that thanks!!
I’ve got a 1930’s acoustic 4 string tenor guitar with no truss rod. It’s neck is bowed so it’s just a wall hanger at the moment. Think I’ll give this techinique a go. Thanks for the video.
I feel like this is the best solution to my issue. The acoustic I’m setting up is still bowed but the truss rod won’t get tighter to straighten the neck out. I read u can install a washer which works sometimes, but I think a heat press would work a lot better. I didnt think of using a clothes iron. I’m thinking only do this with a loose truss rod? That’s great!
I've got a backbow on pbass,one way truss rod completely loose. So with just one clamp in the middle should do it. ( Since i lack the tools trying to heat the neck up on the radiator) hope it will work that way too. Thanks for the diy solution!
Thank you very much! I bought a 20+ old tele a few days ago which was never setup correctly so the neck was like a archery bow and would not go back into reset position. After your video I got it how I want it and I can set it up now! Cheers!
DUDE~! this just unbent the classical guitar that my dad brought home 10-ish years ago since he was allowed to take it from his work place for free(I think). I have yet to restring the 10+ year old string it has(just to see if it still bends again) but just from comparing it to before I iron it(with steam), it's whole lot straighter(so basically if it looked like a fairly straight uncooked piece of instant ramen noodles, it now looks like a spagetti) anyway, if this works. EDIT: IT WORKS... IT'S SOMEHOW IN GREAT SHAPE AND I'M NOW ATTACHED TO GUITAR TO THE POINT WHERE I WOULDN'T RESELL IT EVEN IF IT'S A SHITTY GUITAR
It worked well for me on an old classical guitar. I ended up not using the metal bar in the end, and using a heat gun because I couldn't get enough heat from the clothes iron, or the hair dryer. But it worked, my neck is straight, and I'm groovin! Victor, if you're reading this, what is the purpose of the metal bar, also how long do you leave it clamped after you remove the heat?
Hello Robert... I'm glad it worked for you :) The steel bar sends heat along the whole length of the neck. I unclamp once it's cool. There are many methods to get the right amount of heat in there: you do not need as much heat as you think. I like to leave my guitars alone so I go for lower heat over a longer period of time. That way, I can get on with other things in my workshop and not worry about scorching anything. Victor...
I did this but put the block under the 9th fret because in my experience with second hand guitars this is the area that starts to dip down so I want to catch it at that point or just before it starts to dip. It was my first attempt and a Les Paul so I was very careful with the heat, it took me about 3 hours because I had to build up confidence, I didnt want to remove the cover and see the binding had melted.
Thank you very much friend, I made your video recommendations with a classical guitar, and it worked perfectly! note : Note that after heating it with the iron, a kind of water came out of the fretboard, then the fretboard was dry (then I had to rectify the frets, moisten the fretboard), but it stayed straight! Could it be that this liquid that came out was the humidity that the fretboard had absorbed and that had made the fibers soften, yielding to the traction of the strings? sorry for my English . I use the translator, I just wanted to thank you !!!!🙂
I just acquired an old Oscar Schmidt Stella, which I didn’t need, but fell in love with it due to the tone and volume. Looks like it might’ve had a restoration job, or at least some work, done on it before. The neck is not pulled (or it is repaired) and other than a crack and loose brace which are now fixed, it is in quite good shape - other than the strings being too high due to neck bow. The string break angle at the saddle seems to be good, but since I didn’t know of any way to get the bow out of the neck, I was going to have to lower the bridge and saddle. Very glad to see your video, I’m gonna have to give it a try! It’ll be awesome to be able to actually fix the neck instead of bypassing the problem. I plan on trying it tomorrow.
@@jacobralph1442 I love working on my own guitars but anything over 80 years old I send to my luthier. Anything Oscar Schmidt touched is a piece of history and will massively accrue value in the coming years if it’s still in one piece.
Well im sure excited to try this on my 2000 Explorer that the first owner used to put 12-60 gauge strings on. i have the truss all the way down and still too much relief so its time to back it out and straighten the neck for sure... what was that bit about melting the inlays out? i surely dont want to do that
Thank you for this video -- this absolutely got results for me. I have an epi 175 that I couldn't get the relief out of. I managed to get the neck to bow back slightly with this method -- heating and leaving in a warm garage overnight. However when I straightened the neck with the truss rod, i found there is now a small hump around the 2nd, 3rd fret. I'm going to rip the frets out and hopefully I can level that out. I don't know if the straightening method introduced the hump or not -- I suspect it was already sort of there. Also the truss rod is now peeking out and preventing the nut from seating. I also see some hairline cracks a the first fret and the finish on the back got a little messed up at the fulcrum point. It definitely changed the geometry of of the neck though..
My method is not an exact science! As a last resort, I would pull all of the frets, get the neck as straight as I could using heat/clamps, then I would re-radius the fret-board with a radius sanding beam. If that did not work, the neck is buggered...
About to embark on this journey with a flamenco guitar. Action is a bit above 3mm so want to slightly restore neck shape to get it around 2.7. If anyone has any tips speak now or forever hold your peace ! Thanks in advance
Interesting. I've got a Simon Patrick with a bow the other way between 1st and 4th fret. Truss rod ain't straightening it, so nothing to lose trying this.
remove the neck: clamp it how you need to: heat with a hair dryer on hot setting only! You only need gentle heat but over a longer period for a lacquered neck. That way you will not damage the finish. It takes more time and it is boring to do but it is worth it. In 5the past, I have mede a channel each side of the neck and set the hair dryer in a way that I do not have to hold it and I just let it run. You will figure it out. Victor...
I'd fix a twisted neck by strapping the guitar into a neck jig (a la Erlewine / Stewmac) and use the tuners with a fat string attached to twist the neck back to straight then while holding in that position, I'd get some heat into the neck until the wood fibre had expanded. After naturally cooling, the neck will be straigh (done this job 4 times). Check this video ruclips.net/video/ip6TQcjNW24/видео.html at 13 minutes 45 seconds to get an idea of what I am talking about...
@@2ndPortal The first one I did on a Warwick bass is still dead-straight after 4 years! They twist because of undried wood when built or bad storage once made...
@@FretFriendGWaL ok, good to know. I love this guitar and wouldn't want to risk it. Very curious about all these mechanics of wood and why it warps, i just started wood working :)
I have a Gibson with a back bowl I loosen the top strings and Applied a heating pad on medium. I’m hoping this will work without using clamps. Because the problem is at the 10th and 11th and 12th Fret.
My guitar has a truss rod Yamaha FG335 and it is cranked tight, but I still have a bow. Will this method work for that guitar. I know it's an old cheap guitar, but it's the first one I ever bought in 1982.
really useful, but if i need to do it in reverse? i have a Ibanez JS90th and the truss rod is completely loosen but the neck is still straight, i need to get just a bit of a front bow(right now 0.2mm under 8th fret, need 0.3).
@@FretFriendGWaL Thanks for the reply Victor! I've ended up using a clothes iron and after multiple passes and checks, moving the middle bending point and leaving the neck clamped overnight now the neck with the truss rod loosened and with the strings fully loose has the amount of relief I'd like with full string tension. What would you do at this point?
Hi mate,,great video and tips,,would this method take a centre fretboard bow out on a classical guitar i was given ? I cut the nut slots down as low as was sensible,sanded the plastic bridge down but as per your advice there is a bow around fret s 5 6 and 7? Thanks in advance,George.
Leave the frets in and place a steel strip (bar) between the iron and the frets. Also, do not use high heat: medium-low is enough so long as it warms the wood). I need to upgrade this video as there are better ways to show/explain my methods...
i have a strat neck with a bow but the truss won't give more relief. I assume remove the neck on a bolt on before clamping? Should I loosen off the truss a bit also? Means more of a bow to clamp down?
Can this method be used on a 70s Martin acoustic with the "box tube" non-adjustable truss rod? I would be using the middle clamp method to add relief. Thanks
Can this work on a classical guitar that doesn’t have a trust rod? The problem on my classical guitar is that the low E to the B string is all good but the high E is touching the fret, basically it’s bent on the high E string and I wanted to know if this method will fix that problem for me.
Seems like a good method. Is the bar made of aluminium, iron or steel? Which material and dimensions do you recommend for it? I looked around and all options seem expensive so I don't want to risk buying the wrong stuff. I want to use this method to repair my grandfather's old guitar and perhaps also some future projects.
I searched this out after watching ALOT of neck resets where they remove the neck, sand the joint and reconnect it which apparently is youtube’s standard video to show but that way doesn’t make sense to me because the joint is not the problem… the neck itself has to still be bent after reset if you don’t actually straighten the neck right? My main concern is drying the neck and the hide glue holding the fret board to the neck failing. I love working with my hands and fix alot of things and fixing one of my old guitars I played while watching our jets bomb the Iraqi army was my initial goal but in researching that I picked up a cedar top & Rosewood 1960’s -70s ? Lyle C-650 for $20 that may not be million $ guitar but is solid and sounds wonderful with fixed tuners and a fixed tone bar using home made hide glue. Who knew you could make glue from dog chews? Anyway … It has a slight bend…. Does the neck need to be rehydrated? Does using the DRY heat ensure the glue WON’T fail? Any idea how long this fix lasts? Would it make sense to straighten the neck and then insert a truss rod Through the neck from the top? Thank you for sharing your knowledge?
I've never worked with hide glue and never know what type of glue is used on a guitar (I work on 100's every year). Every one I have fixed with this method has stayed fixed (so far). Victor...
I would not do that! Some guitars are built that way. If the angle is wrong, I'd shim the necl pocket but if it is built that way, it should be fine as it is...
@@FretFriendGWaL Got it, thanks for your message. After purchasing this '85 Guild S-284 online I noticed some paint discoloration and wasn't happy with it, so I let this Daniel Mogg guy redo the paint on the guitar. Five months and $300 down later he finally has the guitar ready. Soon as I pick it up I notice the neck has a 5-degree backward angle and Daniel swears he hasn't touched anything besides the finish. Before the paint job the guitar was perfectly set up, but now the bridge lies some 3/8" too low and I'm trying to figure out how to make it playable again. I have no idea what could have happened and no one at that paint shop was helpful at all. Thought I'd share my experience with others here, because it's definitely better to settle on a playable instrument with less than perfect aesthetics than ending up with the opposite. Daniel's business in Lauderhill FL ran by the name of "Anonymous Guitars" ...by the time I went back there to complain about the condition the guitar was delivered the shop was closed permanently.
@@FretFriendGWaL Most probably it was caused by the paint booth heater during the curing process. I guess a neck reset is the only fix now, tho it would ruin the paint finish, ironically. I'm considering just separating the bridge from the body by means of a 3/8" spacer and calling it a day... a strat type guitar with a neck angle steeper than an LP is quite a sight.
@@FretFriendGWaL Yes. im a dummy! Lol!! I did notice you stated about loosening the truss rod after i posted. Sorry and thanks for your input. Ive got a CS Tele neck that is warped.
I did not catch one detail if you would this. Do you undo the s truss rod first when you are clamping it or do you clamp it under the full truss-rod tension?
Hi David... Always with the truss rod slackened off! Some think you can bring it back to tension when you have it clamped where you need it but I do not like to do that. I always keep it with the truss rod slackened off (no tension). Regards, Victor...
hello sir.... i have a problem with my guitar neck... and I've been looking online for solutions but still couldn't find anything..... it's a 7 string guitar though... so on the side of the low b string it's upbowed... but...on the high e side... it's straight....... and if i would to adjust the truss rod.... the low b side would be straight.... but the high e side will be back bowed...... is there any tips i could do for this problem? sorry to bother you bout this sir....
Hi... You can clamp the fret side to a length of steel box section then use a hot hair-dryer to get some heat into the wood fibres to (hopefully) straighten the neck. Not an easy job to fix but it is possible. Victor...
@@FretFriendGWaL aights. thank you so much for your time sir... all i did was took off all the strings and let the neck rest for 2 weeks. but I will try the method you suggested. thank you again sir.
I have a 1982 peavey t-20 bass and the truss rod is tightened as far as i can get the wrench and the action is still too high. Do you think this will work on it?
@@FretFriendGWaL ok. So heres the deal. I saw this video 6 months ago and i tried it overnight with just a clamp and i got nothing. I finally got around to this bass now and i just tried it last night. Peavey 1982 t-20. I didnt have an iron or any steel to lay on the fretboard so i just took 3 small saucepans with lids and boiling water. I pulled the water off after a half an hour the first 2 times and got the water back to boiling for the heat but the third time i left them on for about 3 hours. Long story short, it looks like it worked because there is backbow. I wont know for sure until i get the strings to full tension cause i have read i could make the wood limp but as it look this second, it worked!
@@FretFriendGWaL happy to report. That it worked! Great, low action! I have another t-20 in worse shape that im also gonna try tonight. Lets see how often this works. So far 1 for 1.
Hello there, i had an amazing playing warwick bass a streamer lx4 with bolt on neck. Sometime mid winter i did a string change with very little difference than the strings i replaced. On tuning these i noticed dead spots, fret buzz and other bad noises. I had it confirmed that on the E, and A strings on the first couple of frets was an acute warped area. I clamped in two spots in affected area and they improved. However this didnt last long but never got as bad as it was. Could you recommend any fixes? If i had the money id get they fretboard off and level beneath. Hope you can advise.
Odd you should post this now as I am just fixing another Warwick bass with a severely warped/twisted neck! There is only one way to fix these and it is fingerboard off. I am currently doing my 3rd Warwick bass right now! Here is the last one I did (a Streamer): ruclips.net/video/GVDB3YCm5GA/видео.html (Check my RUclips videos for the first one: a Corvette)...
Only fix is heat and clamping. Heat will melt the glue and clamping will hold it in the position it needs to be in. After it has cooled, you may need to reshape the neck and sand it as the fretboard will move slightly (from the neck). You will then need to oil it as the heat will dry the wood out. You can send it to me for a proper repair if you want...
@@FretFriendGWaL really appreciate your reply as despite of an information super highway it gone pretty lonely waiting for any word on what's good and the doom sayers "don't do anything" be nice if I could send pics and give me an idea of of where I'm at, but thx for your input.
@@FretFriendGWaL hi there. Firstly big thanks for taking time out to answer. The twist was strange but im glad it was. Looking up at the neck flat from bridge p/u to nut to last 2/3 frets had a ramp type thing, more pronounced on the E&A strings. Before seeing your reply i put a wet towel on the back of neck and ran iron back n forth or in the effected are, then clamped in 3 places with wood above and below. The music shop where i took it said id have to have fret board removed and levelled but felt i had to try. I have no pics before sadly, but have a couple taken no strings or nut so there was nothing to distract the eye. It would be nice to send them, and where are you situated? Im in west yorks which is usually a disadvantage. Id of left my email but didnt know if this message is private. Hope to hear back from you and possible repair options. Mark
On the second attempt i used way more heat and clamped a 3 fet span with two clamps and its the best or closest to how it was pre-warping. I was told by local music shop after the fact but before i saw your reply that heat was bad, bollox. Dont know how you keep up with comments and thx for the reply.
Can I ask, how much bowing can be achieved, approximately? Brook Hoover mentioned that he has some 60s Japanese acoustics, touching upon a problem that costs guitar enthusiasts hundreds. I myself just picked up 1971 FG-140 Red Label Gakki for peaunuts. It sounds better than a Martin and it is playable - though you wouldn't want to try making a bar chord. To remedy it they say requires a neck rest at around 350 quid. So, would this method provide enough back bow to reduce a few mill at the 12th fret do you think?
If it was originally straight, regardless of how much bend it has now, it can be bent back. You are only coaxing the wood grain back to it's original state. On a non-finished wood, you could also try steaming it while clamped though I would use that approach with caution! Regards, Victor...
If anyone sees this - how easy is this to screw up? Is it possible to go too far and end up with a back bow? I want to try it on a 1950s archtop, but I'll experiment on a Harley Benton first 😅
Hay i am trying to restore a guitar and im about to replace the frets its and old guitar and it have little bow but what its best first install new frets straight the neck and than sand the frets or first straight the neck than add new frets ?
Thanks, man. I have a slightly different problem. I bought a very used/abused bass (for next to nothing), and it's got a very wide neck/fretboard. The neck passes the straightedge test lengthwise, but my problem is cross-wise, the neck is so warped that it's got a "negative fretboard radius". It has three truss rods (so does my 9 string schecter, but luckily, I've never had to adjust it as it's rock solid). Would it be possible to loosen the middle rod, and tighten the outer 2, slowly more over time? Or would that start cracking/breaking stuff? Or, would it be possible to support the very center of the neck underneath, and use a ratcheting strap and a couple blocks of wood on the outside edges of the neck, and use an iron like this, slowly tightening over time? If not, I've removed fretboards before, but god what a pain in the ass.
Straighten it with all truss rods loose using whatever methods needed! The truss rods should only be used under string tension so, ideally, you want the neck straight without the truss rods being tightened. Victor...
Hi Victor - can this be used as a possible fix for an end of neck flip-up on a maple strat neck? It's on the bass side of the neck - I assume it occured because I use 12's - frets are level and no matter how I adjust the truss it doesn't help. Thanks!
A common job I do quite a lot: I have a 73 LP and a 90's Warwick bass in at the mo with severly twisted necks at the headstock end. You will need a neck jig or you have to find a way of clamping the neck to a flat bench. Check this video at 1 hour, 3 minutes and 9 seconds: ruclips.net/video/GVDB3YCm5GA/видео.html
I read ages ago that over time the guitar will return to its original warp and a good sign of that is if the guitar doesnt hold tune when left sitting for a while.
You are coaxing the wood back to it's original shape so why would it bend out of shape again? The reason guitars warp is because they are not stored under the right conditions. If there is moisture in the air the storage area, the guitar will keep it's shape. They go out of shape because they dry out...
@@FretFriendGWaL He was talking about repairing a forward bow, maybe thats why? I have no idea im no expert but im interested in knowing if there is a point a neck cant be repaired and when you decide to shave the fretboard instead.
@@GibsonLesPaul2273 There is always a point where a neck is no longer repairable I think. Funny thing, I am currently repairing one of my own recent purchases where the neck just would not go straight. I actually have it straight now using just reverse-clamping and I have added a washer between the truss rod adjuster and the rod itself to give me more adjustment. Now I need to fix the belly bulge and forward tilting bridge. Pretty confident I will get that fixed too. There will be a video on that soon so watch out for that. Regards, Victor...
@@FretFriendGWaL Thanks for the education and glad its working for you. I have a very expensive classical with a sudden warp at the 2nd fret on on side and the 6th fret on the other side plus a bulge at the 14th fret so I think I need to sand it down instead of trying to bend it into shape. It has a truss rod but its not adjustable another reason I think sanding and re-fret is the only option, but its expensive and ive only skimmed and refretted 1 electric. Ive got my classical in the same setup as your video clamped up but with some water tubes in the sound hole and wrapped it in a damp towel and see if the re-humidify trick works first.
Hi, i have ibanez grg170dx left handed. i maked "Neck Straight Edge Notched" measured. Thin E side more relief. Truss rod not fixing this; Thick E straight, thin E relief. How to fix? heat thin E side with clamp? fix options? i need a help. Thank you.
You need to loosen the truss rod and clamp the neck. Once it is in a straight position, you need to put some heat there! Maybe a hair dryer on the hot setting. You do not need as much heat as you may think. Leave the heat for maybe 1 hour (not too hot). Then remove the clamp and check. If it does not work, tighten the clamp a little more and repeat...
I have an old guitar (very old, Harwood parlor from 1926). Do you think this method would be too risky? The strings are approximately 1cm above the the board at the 12th fret.
I really have no idea but... what have you got to lose? Of course, it's at your own risk! I don't see why it should be a problem. Just take it steady and bend a little at a time. Regards, Victor...
Enough to penetrate the wood fibre but not enough to melt the inlays or scorch the finish! It is a job you MUST watch and I mean: WATCH! Do not leave it for any length of time. I have caused damage by not keeping watch. I have no set temperature. Regards, Victor...
@@FretFriendGWaL In the past i had to pay for a "deluxe fretboard service" which as quite expensive, I think i was fooled because i never saw traces of the fingerboard was removed for maintenance, with this method you saved me a lot of trouble, thanks a lot dude.
I would not think so. If they were glued in on a straight neck, they should be fine after straightening! I don't use superglue myself: I hate the stuff...
could I do this without loosening the truss rod? I want to try this on a bowed peavey foundation neck, and the truss is so deep its unreachable and is probably maxed out according to a luthier who saw it
Some concern here: Would this method last any long? The neck will go under tension if put the strings back onto it for sure, wouldn't the neck crook back soon again?
Bingo! It really worked! I followed your steps and now my old lawsuit strat neck is straight. I aploied heat for 20 minutes and let it set down for 12 hours before removing the clamps. Thank very much you sir!
I have a 1968 Gibson Hummingbird Acoustic Guitar that has a slight Wharp in the Neck. Where can I find someone that knows how to fix this. I am in New Jersey, USA
Same method but clamp the guitar under the heal and under the 1st fret; add the metal strip as before then use another clamp around fret 7 and tighten it to remove back-bow; use the same method with a hot clothes iron to get heat into the frets/into the wood...
Fret Friend Thanks so much for the reply, I failed to read the description on my phone :/ I hope this little jem sorts out my 40 year old fender neck now and can level and dress the frets etc. Nice to know ur local to me keep up the awesome videos and tutorials, prob the best I've seen on youtube . :)
I hope you can sort it! If I get a spare 5 minutes, I'll do a small video showing hot to clamp to get a little back-bow using a similar method to this one. Victor...
Dave Bones take the strings off but leave the truss rod tight, put under for 20 years will give you a back bow. Or, leave strings on, loosen the truss rod, leave under bed for 20 years and you have a forward bow. If you can’t wait 20 years, put it in a hot attic, or a weekend in a car trunk on a hot summer day.
Hey? If I'm straightening a neck using clamps and/or heat, you can guarantee the truss rod is NOT doing the job it should! Why else would I be using these methods?
You bet Victor. I have a few old 60's Japanese guitars that need this treatment. WAY HIGH action. Where are you based? I am in the middle of the US in Iowa.
This method worked well for an old classical guitar with no truss rod. Since the classical guitar has no inlays, I placed the hot iron set hot directly on the frets for about 20 minutes. Then I took the iron off and left it clamped for 24 hours. It turned an unplayable guitar back into an instrument of joy. Thanks for the idea!
Excellent! :D
Hi Victor, Almost 60 years ago I was given a 1940's German Archtop acoustic by my sister in law ( she passed away last year) to replace a guitar that my brother made at school. She used to play in a skiffle group. I took lessons and then gigged this guitar for years, when a drunk fell on it and the neck came off. I got it repaired but the tech said it does not play well as the neck is bowed due to it's age. I bought a new guitar and the archtop went in the attic for the next thirty years. I had a lot of sentimental reasons for this guitar,.When I saw your video whilst looking for something else I decided to give it a go - It worked like a dream and the neck is now straight it sounds out of this world. I am going to do a re-fret and mount a De'Armour pickup and give it a good polishing. Thanks for the best lesson on youtube.
Regards and a Happy New Year
Frank
Hi Frank... That is fantastic news, well done! This is not a fool-proof method and it does not always work but I am glad it worked for you. Let me know how you get on with the upgrades. Victor...
I just did this and it freakin worked!! Just wanted to let you know that your video saved me about 500 bucks!! Thank you so much man, there’s stuff all over the internet and I went with your solution and it actually worked. Thank you thank you!!
That is great to hear! :)
Today I was quoted $500 for refretting and sanding my flamenco guitar neck because they said this heating technique would not work. I said f that, went to home depot and got a couple clamps for $30, slapped an iron on the board for 20 minutes, let it cool and 2 hours later my guitar is shredding like the day I got it in Spain. I am aware that this technique might take a few tries to become permanent, but it is good to know I can fix it myself. Thanks so much for sharing this method!
That is really good to hear friend! 👍😃
It did work! Fixed 2 peavey t-20 basses from the early 80s. Thanks again budn. Saved me between 200-600$ and learned a skill. This does work people! No bullshit!
I have a baritone Yamaha which had a back bow and after a few attempts to fix it I found the best method. Clamp the guitar fret side down on e.g. a work mate bench with a small piece of timber underneath where the bow starts . Make sure that there is a small felt pad on the clamps to avoid damaging the neck. Take a wet flannel and a steam iron on the hot steam setting and steam for aprox ten-15 minutes. Leave for a couple of days then un clamp. Make sure before you do all of this that your truss rod is completely slackened off. My neck came out as straight as a die and even though as it was a baritone with heavier gauge strings it has remained true. The guitar would have been a write off to pay for a repair and this will cost you nothing. The piece of timber I used just wider than the fretboard and aprox 2-3 mm thick just enough that if a slight forward bow was put in it could be easily adjusted with the truss rod.
Thanks for your input (great methods) :) I use steam myself. This was just an example for this particular guitar. Check my series on Warwick Bass truss rod removal and replacement (the neck was twisted, warped, bent and uneven in all ways imaginable and I got it straight) here ruclips.net/p/PLhMXQIXvmBZw_MPfAaFWvH85-DvY1H3GI It took a lot of work but I made it like new...
@@FretFriendGWaL It was easier because it was a bolt on neck. My friend who has been a Luthier all his life was a little bit sceptical and did not think it was a worth the cost of a repair but said it should be O,K as the melting temperature of the glue would probably not effect the finger board. He was right and I have not yet updated him on the success considering the neck was varnished.
I'm doing a mix of the video method and your method given here. Got a vintage guild in with a maxed out truss rod and still too much relief in the neck. Basically set my guitar up how the video is, let off the truss rod completely, got a damp flannel shirt, and have an iron with max steam going. Only bad part is the auto off feature so I'm standing here babysitting it. I'll have an update in a day or two once it's all done.
I use a hair dryer.
I am about to endeavor on this journey myself. I have an old Silvertone full size acoustic that is a beauty but it doubles as a drawn bow and arrow! Thanks for tips!
Thanks! I have a fender bass that has a bend that has a permanent bend and the truss rud nut is bottomed out. When I do tighten it to the max it does help - but I want to lower the action regardless. This is the approach I am going to take to at least straighten it out a bit
I hope it works! You could try this: If you can remove the truss rod adjuster, do so and put a washer that fits between the truss rod and adjuster then refit the adjuster. This will give you extra adjustment. Victor...
I’ve literally just finished watching the Texas Chainsaw Massacre but this video is WAY scarier!
This comment is underrated 😄
If you guitar unplayable you have nothing to lose
Guitar company like Aria use to sell guitar neck iron with clamps
Then they stopped cos the want you to bye new instrument no worthy if you can fix your guitar for them
Did this with a detached bolt-on neck (strat) which suffered from excessive bow.
I used a combo of letting the neck sit on a regular hot-water heat radiator for 30 mins - then gently clamping it onto a straight plank of wood - with 5 layers of cardboard at each end (very slowly bending the frets down towards the plank) - while in this position, I aimed a couple of hairdryers back and forth along the neck to evenly spread the heat.
Then incrementally tightened the clamps - till it sat with a back-bow for about 15 - 20 mins.
It worked out very well!
Almost perfectly straight now🤘🤘
That's brilliant :) Victor...
Fantastic tip - I think it saved a tele I love that has a broken truss rod! Much apprecitaed!
Hey Lennie... You're welcome! Victor :)
Thanks! I used this technique on my friend's old Harmony acoustic with no truss rod and a neck like a banana.
Thank you. This is useful. You just helped me straighten the neck on a 1963 Kay Speed Demon that was made with no truss rod👍
Thanks Robert... That's great to hear! Victor...
Thanks for the videos, I've watched several that have been really useful. Especially these methods that avoid having to buy expensive tools. I'm trying to rescue an old burns bass.
Brilliant! I now a have way forward with my Kamaka Tenor with a fore-bend. Many thanks!
Wow absolutely So simple, with care, but simple, Many THANKS 😊😊😊
Glad to hear this works for a lot of people, tried a variation of this with a bowed fender maple neck (no fretboard) and it didnt work. I had it lay flat on my toaster oven and clamped it down , the toaster oven has a warmer on the top so it really did transfer the heat good that the wood got hot to the touch even. But after heating for 15-20 mins and leaving it for 24hrs i dont even notice a slight change when removing the clamp- still bowed. I figure it was just my setup, there was enough bow in the neck that laying it down fret first left a big enough gap, so i clamped it there to the toaster oven frame and it got petty flat, but maybe i have to bend it back further than straight so it sets straight? Couldnt really do that with my setup so im willing to try the videos method but not not sure it will help after seeing nothing here and thinking about just going ahead and replacing the truss rod. Any tips/ suggestions would be appreciated.
Over-bend it! I do that when I have a stubborn neck. Just a little to start with and keep checking every couple of hours. You are coaxing the wood to hopefullly go back into it's default position. I have had necks not straighten too: you have to get some moisture/heat in there and as mentioned, you sometimes have to over-bend. Victor...
I am going to try this tonight! I left an acoustic guitar resting upright against the wall in a humid area of the house a while ago and made my action to high. I hope to fix that thanks!!
Hi there! So, did you actually fix it?
I’ve got a 1930’s acoustic 4 string tenor guitar with no truss rod. It’s neck is bowed so it’s just a wall hanger at the moment. Think I’ll give this techinique a go. Thanks for the video.
This technique is for that exact type of problem. Good luck :)
Man Am I Glad I Watched You !!! Great Guitar Guy This One !!!!
Brilliant mate! I am so going to use this on a bass Ive been fidling with.
I feel like this is the best solution to my issue. The acoustic I’m setting up is still bowed but the truss rod won’t get tighter to straighten the neck out. I read u can install a washer which works sometimes, but I think a heat press would work a lot better. I didnt think of using a clothes iron. I’m thinking only do this with a loose truss rod? That’s great!
Yes, I often add 1 x washer. Good luck! Victor...
Nicely done!! Learned a ton watching this!
Cheers for the video man, will give this a try with my guitar thats stuck in a back bow.
I've got a backbow on pbass,one way truss rod completely loose. So with just one clamp in the middle should do it. ( Since i lack the tools trying to heat the neck up on the radiator) hope it will work that way too. Thanks for the diy solution!
@@harryw9598 I'd tried that but didn't help. So ended up buying a new neck. Kept the old one thought just in case
Thank you. Can't wait to try it on my classical guitar.
how did it went ?
How did it work on your classical guitar ???
Thank you very much! I bought a 20+ old tele a few days ago which was never setup correctly so the neck was like a archery bow and would not go back into reset position.
After your video I got it how I want it and I can set it up now!
Cheers!
DUDE~! this just unbent the classical guitar that my dad brought home 10-ish years ago since he was allowed to take it from his work place for free(I think). I have yet to restring the 10+ year old string it has(just to see if it still bends again) but just from comparing it to before I iron it(with steam), it's whole lot straighter(so basically if it looked like a fairly straight uncooked piece of instant ramen noodles, it now looks like a spagetti) anyway, if this works. EDIT: IT WORKS... IT'S SOMEHOW IN GREAT SHAPE AND I'M NOW ATTACHED TO GUITAR TO THE POINT WHERE I WOULDN'T RESELL IT EVEN IF IT'S A SHITTY GUITAR
Good to hear! :D
It worked well for me on an old classical guitar. I ended up not using the metal bar in the end, and using a heat gun because I couldn't get enough heat from the clothes iron, or the hair dryer. But it worked, my neck is straight, and I'm groovin! Victor, if you're reading this, what is the purpose of the metal bar, also how long do you leave it clamped after you remove the heat?
Hello Robert... I'm glad it worked for you :) The steel bar sends heat along the whole length of the neck. I unclamp once it's cool. There are many methods to get the right amount of heat in there: you do not need as much heat as you think. I like to leave my guitars alone so I go for lower heat over a longer period of time. That way, I can get on with other things in my workshop and not worry about scorching anything. Victor...
I just watch these for the totally awesome accent.
Cheers :)
I did this but put the block under the 9th fret because in my experience with second hand guitars this is the area that starts to dip down so I want to catch it at that point or just before it starts to dip.
It was my first attempt and a Les Paul so I was very careful with the heat, it took me about 3 hours because I had to build up confidence, I didnt want to remove the cover and see the binding had melted.
Did the binding got damage?
@@adriancastaneda9088 No but a couple of the fret inlays shrunk slightly so you need to be careful.
7byseven how did u make the block? i have an acoustic so it has a bigger body
@@dilfhunter5645 I just grabbed something around the house that was the right kind of size, I cant remember what I used now.
Thank you very much friend, I made your video recommendations with a classical guitar, and it worked perfectly!
note :
Note that after heating it with the iron, a kind of water came out of the fretboard, then the fretboard was dry (then I had to rectify the frets, moisten the fretboard), but it stayed straight!
Could it be that this liquid that came out was the humidity that the fretboard had absorbed and that had made the fibers soften, yielding to the traction of the strings? sorry for my English . I use the translator, I just wanted to thank you !!!!🙂
I do not know what the liquid was but I am glad that you fixed yuour guitar :) Victor...
I just acquired an old Oscar Schmidt Stella, which I didn’t need, but fell in love with it due to the tone and volume. Looks like it might’ve had a restoration job, or at least some work, done on it before. The neck is not pulled (or it is repaired) and other than a crack and loose brace which are now fixed, it is in quite good shape - other than the strings being too high due to neck bow. The string break angle at the saddle seems to be good, but since I didn’t know of any way to get the bow out of the neck, I was going to have to lower the bridge and saddle. Very glad to see your video, I’m gonna have to give it a try! It’ll be awesome to be able to actually fix the neck instead of bypassing the problem. I plan on trying it tomorrow.
Excellent: take your time and it will be fine :)
Hey did you do this to an Oscar Schmidt Stella? Did it work out? Can you sleep at night?
Well… I started the process to straighten out the neck and then left the project aside.
@@jacobralph1442 I love working on my own guitars but anything over 80 years old I send to my luthier. Anything Oscar Schmidt touched is a piece of history and will massively accrue value in the coming years if it’s still in one piece.
Well im sure excited to try this on my 2000 Explorer that the first owner used to put 12-60 gauge strings on.
i have the truss all the way down and still too much relief so its time to back it out and straighten the neck for sure...
what was that bit about melting the inlays out? i surely dont want to do that
Then use gentle heat over a longer period of time. You must get heat into the wood fibres. You do not need as much heat as you think! Best, Victor...
Thank you for this video -- this absolutely got results for me. I have an epi 175 that I couldn't get the relief out of. I managed to get the neck to bow back slightly with this method -- heating and leaving in a warm garage overnight. However when I straightened the neck with the truss rod, i found there is now a small hump around the 2nd, 3rd fret. I'm going to rip the frets out and hopefully I can level that out. I don't know if the straightening method introduced the hump or not -- I suspect it was already sort of there. Also the truss rod is now peeking out and preventing the nut from seating. I also see some hairline cracks a the first fret and the finish on the back got a little messed up at the fulcrum point. It definitely changed the geometry of of the neck though..
My method is not an exact science! As a last resort, I would pull all of the frets, get the neck as straight as I could using heat/clamps, then I would re-radius the fret-board with a radius sanding beam. If that did not work, the neck is buggered...
I hope you can fix your problem :)
About to embark on this journey with a flamenco guitar. Action is a bit above 3mm so want to slightly restore neck shape to get it around 2.7. If anyone has any tips speak now or forever hold your peace ! Thanks in advance
Interesting. I've got a Simon Patrick with a bow the other way between 1st and 4th fret. Truss rod ain't straightening it, so nothing to lose trying this.
How di i do this method on my fender strat with a gloss finished maple fretboard?
remove the neck: clamp it how you need to: heat with a hair dryer on hot setting only! You only need gentle heat but over a longer period for a lacquered neck. That way you will not damage the finish. It takes more time and it is boring to do but it is worth it. In 5the past, I have mede a channel each side of the neck and set the hair dryer in a way that I do not have to hold it and I just let it run. You will figure it out. Victor...
Do you think i can fix a twisted neck with the same setup? Very nice explanation, i like these kinds of diy
I'd fix a twisted neck by strapping the guitar into a neck jig (a la Erlewine / Stewmac) and use the tuners with a fat string attached to twist the neck back to straight then while holding in that position, I'd get some heat into the neck until the wood fibre had expanded. After naturally cooling, the neck will be straigh (done this job 4 times). Check this video ruclips.net/video/ip6TQcjNW24/видео.html at 13 minutes 45 seconds to get an idea of what I am talking about...
@@FretFriendGWaL thank you! What do you think are the chances that it will actually set in motion a even greater twist as time goes by?
@@2ndPortal The first one I did on a Warwick bass is still dead-straight after 4 years! They twist because of undried wood when built or bad storage once made...
@@2ndPortal All the other 3 are still dead straight...
@@FretFriendGWaL ok, good to know. I love this guitar and wouldn't want to risk it. Very curious about all these mechanics of wood and why it warps, i just started wood working :)
I have a Gibson with a back bowl I loosen the top strings and Applied a heating pad on medium. I’m hoping this will work without using clamps. Because the problem is at the 10th and 11th and 12th Fret.
My guitar has a truss rod Yamaha FG335 and it is cranked tight, but I still have a bow. Will this method work for that guitar. I know it's an old cheap guitar, but it's the first one I ever bought in 1982.
I cannot guarantee that it will work but this method is for any guitar! Victor...
Planing to fix my 5 classic guitar will try on one if it’s work I will fix all then
I'm going to try that this week. Wish me luck!
Good luck! Victor :)
@@FretFriendGWaL Thanks Victor (I'm scared haha!)
really useful, but if i need to do it in reverse? i have a Ibanez JS90th and the truss rod is completely loosen but the neck is still straight, i need to get just a bit of a front bow(right now 0.2mm under 8th fret, need 0.3).
This method works both ways: turn your guitar over...
Please, what is being said between 3:27 and 3:31? I can't make it out.
'You must have the frets on' = the frets must be on the board else you will melt the inlays...
can this work for a bass with a truss rod? The truss rod won't affect the exact problem I have
I'm not saying it will work but it should. It's the same principal whether it a guitar/bass/buzuki/whatever. Victor...
this was super useful buddy thank you
worked like a charm!!! thanks!!
Hello, have you tried this without heat? Such as leaving the guitar clamped for a few days or so.
Yes I have! It does work sometimes but not often. Regards, Victor...
@@FretFriendGWaL Thanks for the reply Victor! I've ended up using a clothes iron and after multiple passes and checks, moving the middle bending point and leaving the neck clamped overnight now the neck with the truss rod loosened and with the strings fully loose has the amount of relief I'd like with full string tension. What would you do at this point?
What about resetting the truss bar in this process?
I slacken off the truss rod in all cases...
What about Fender Strats with the Bi-flex truss rod and the skunk stripe? Any experience with that?
Thank you so much..
Rock on brother!
This method can work for any guitar...
Hi mate,,great video and tips,,would this method take a centre fretboard bow out on a classical guitar i was given ? I cut the nut slots down as low as was sensible,sanded the plastic bridge down but as per your advice there is a bow around fret s 5 6 and 7? Thanks in advance,George.
It should work on any neck. Just do not overheat if using heat! I have scorched necks with too much heat. A hot hairdryer is enough...
Great video as I'm planning to do the same.. but won't that melt neck binding when binding goes over the frets?
Leave the frets in and place a steel strip (bar) between the iron and the frets. Also, do not use high heat: medium-low is enough so long as it warms the wood). I need to upgrade this video as there are better ways to show/explain my methods...
i have a strat neck with a bow but the truss won't give more relief. I assume remove the neck on a bolt on before clamping? Should I loosen off the truss a bit also? Means more of a bow to clamp down?
Yes, remove the neck anmd loosen the truss rod...
@@FretFriendGWaL
cheers.
How do you prevent the plastic neck binding from scorching while you heat the iron?
Turn the heat down: you really do NOT need a lot of heat to do this. Victor...
@@FretFriendGWaL Thank you!
This very useful. Thank You!!
Good to hear! Thank you, Victor...
Can this method be used on a 70s Martin acoustic with the "box tube" non-adjustable truss rod? I would be using the middle clamp method to add relief. Thanks
Non-adjustable truss rod? I don't get it! The only way to find out is to try it but the truth is: I do not know. Try it entirely at your own risk...
Can this work on a classical guitar that doesn’t have a trust rod? The problem on my classical guitar is that the low E to the B string is all good but the high E is touching the fret, basically it’s bent on the high E string and I wanted to know if this method will fix that problem for me.
It is the only way to straighten a neck without a truss rod...
I've watched your other videos . So is a wet cloth necessary or only iron will work? Thanks for sharing your knowledge . God bless u
An iron will work on it's own but it's easy to scorch dry wood without moisture. Just make sure you heat gently (not too hot)...
So, loosen the truss rod completely before doing this right?
Of course: we are looking to get the neck straight and, IMO, it should always be straight with the truss rod loose :)
Seems like a good method. Is the bar made of aluminium, iron or steel? Which material and dimensions do you recommend for it? I looked around and all options seem expensive so I don't want to risk buying the wrong stuff. I want to use this method to repair my grandfather's old guitar and perhaps also some future projects.
Mine is steel: 2 inches x 1 inch box section...
I searched this out after watching ALOT of neck resets where they remove the neck, sand the joint and reconnect it which apparently is youtube’s standard video to show but that way doesn’t make sense to me because the joint is not the problem… the neck itself has to still be bent after reset if you don’t actually straighten the neck right?
My main concern is drying the neck and the hide glue holding the fret board to the neck failing.
I love working with my hands and fix alot of things and fixing one of my old guitars I played while watching our jets bomb the Iraqi army was my initial goal but in researching that I picked up a cedar top & Rosewood 1960’s -70s ? Lyle C-650 for $20 that may not be million $ guitar but is solid and sounds wonderful with fixed tuners and a fixed tone bar using home made hide glue. Who knew you could make glue from dog chews?
Anyway … It has a slight bend….
Does the neck need to be rehydrated?
Does using the DRY heat ensure the glue WON’T fail?
Any idea how long this fix lasts?
Would it make sense to straighten the neck and then insert a truss rod Through the neck from the top?
Thank you for sharing your knowledge?
I've never worked with hide glue and never know what type of glue is used on a guitar (I work on 100's every year). Every one I have fixed with this method has stayed fixed (so far). Victor...
When the neck is perfectly straight but angled back with respect to the guitar's body, should I try correcting the neck-body angle with heat too?
I would not do that! Some guitars are built that way. If the angle is wrong, I'd shim the necl pocket but if it is built that way, it should be fine as it is...
@@FretFriendGWaL Got it, thanks for your message. After purchasing this '85 Guild S-284 online I noticed some paint discoloration and wasn't happy with it, so I let this Daniel Mogg guy redo the paint on the guitar. Five months and $300 down later he finally has the guitar ready. Soon as I pick it up I notice the neck has a 5-degree backward angle and Daniel swears he hasn't touched anything besides the finish.
Before the paint job the guitar was perfectly set up, but now the bridge lies some 3/8" too low and I'm trying to figure out how to make it playable again. I have no idea what could have happened and no one at that paint shop was helpful at all. Thought I'd share my experience with others here, because it's definitely better to settle on a playable instrument with less than perfect aesthetics than ending up with the opposite.
Daniel's business in Lauderhill FL ran by the name of "Anonymous Guitars" ...by the time I went back there to complain about the condition the guitar was delivered the shop was closed permanently.
@@Witcher58 Well that sucks! I don't know how they managed to do that...
@@FretFriendGWaL Most probably it was caused by the paint booth heater during the curing process. I guess a neck reset is the only fix now, tho it would ruin the paint finish, ironically. I'm considering just separating the bridge from the body by means of a 3/8" spacer and calling it a day... a strat type guitar with a neck angle steeper than an LP is quite a sight.
How to correct s bend trust road not able to fix
You cannot...
Do you loosed the truss rod before the heat is used??
Sorry, I assumed that lossening the truss rod would be obvious but if you don't know: you don't know. Absolutely loosen the truss rod first. Victor...
@@FretFriendGWaL
Yes. im a dummy! Lol!! I did notice you stated about loosening the truss rod after i posted. Sorry and thanks for your input. Ive got a CS Tele neck that is warped.
There are no dumb questions!
I did not catch one detail if you would this. Do you undo the s truss rod first when you are clamping it or do you clamp it under the full truss-rod tension?
Hi David... Always with the truss rod slackened off! Some think you can bring it back to tension when you have it clamped where you need it but I do not like to do that. I always keep it with the truss rod slackened off (no tension). Regards, Victor...
@@FretFriendGWaL Thanks Fret Friend! i suspected that but needed this confirmation before I got down to ironing!
Good video , I have a vintage (1945) Harmony arch top. the neck needs some help .. do u think will this trick work ? It’s a v-shape much thicker neck.
If I have a neck with the bass side near-the-nut sunken, as well as the treble strings side over the 15th fret also sunken... Can i use this method?😐
I'd clamp it to a flat surface then blow hot air at it over a period of time (not too hot)...
hello sir....
i have a problem with my guitar neck...
and I've been looking online for solutions but still couldn't find anything.....
it's a 7 string guitar though...
so on the side of the low b string it's upbowed...
but...on the high e side...
it's straight.......
and if i would to adjust the truss rod....
the low b side would be straight....
but the high e side will be back bowed......
is there any tips i could do for this problem?
sorry to bother you bout this sir....
Hi... You can clamp the fret side to a length of steel box section then use a hot hair-dryer to get some heat into the wood fibres to (hopefully) straighten the neck. Not an easy job to fix but it is possible. Victor...
@@FretFriendGWaL
aights. thank you so much for your time sir...
all i did was took off all the strings and let the neck rest for 2 weeks.
but I will try the method you suggested.
thank you again sir.
This video could help you ruclips.net/video/1v5i8sEJ2LQ/видео.html
@@FretFriendGWaL how do you fix a warped neck thats a fixed neck? I just got this 12 string fender acoustic for my bday and i wanna fix it so damn bad
I have a 1982 peavey t-20 bass and the truss rod is tightened as far as i can get the wrench and the action is still too high. Do you think this will work on it?
Seems like you have nothing to lose by trying! Try it without heat first...
@@FretFriendGWaL ok. So heres the deal. I saw this video 6 months ago and i tried it overnight with just a clamp and i got nothing. I finally got around to this bass now and i just tried it last night. Peavey 1982 t-20. I didnt have an iron or any steel to lay on the fretboard so i just took 3 small saucepans with lids and boiling water. I pulled the water off after a half an hour the first 2 times and got the water back to boiling for the heat but the third time i left them on for about 3 hours. Long story short, it looks like it worked because there is backbow. I wont know for sure until i get the strings to full tension cause i have read i could make the wood limp but as it look this second, it worked!
@@thinkhendrix That's great! Let's hope it holds :)
@@FretFriendGWaL happy to report. That it worked! Great, low action! I have another t-20 in worse shape that im also gonna try tonight. Lets see how often this works. So far 1 for 1.
On a 37 year old instrument too!
Hello there, i had an amazing playing warwick bass a streamer lx4 with bolt on neck. Sometime mid winter i did a string change with very little difference than the strings i replaced. On tuning these i noticed dead spots, fret buzz and other bad noises. I had it confirmed that on the E, and A strings on the first couple of frets was an acute warped area. I clamped in two spots in affected area and they improved. However this didnt last long but never got as bad as it was. Could you recommend any fixes? If i had the money id get they fretboard off and level beneath. Hope you can advise.
Odd you should post this now as I am just fixing another Warwick bass with a severely warped/twisted neck! There is only one way to fix these and it is fingerboard off. I am currently doing my 3rd Warwick bass right now! Here is the last one I did (a Streamer): ruclips.net/video/GVDB3YCm5GA/видео.html (Check my RUclips videos for the first one: a Corvette)...
Only fix is heat and clamping. Heat will melt the glue and clamping will hold it in the position it needs to be in. After it has cooled, you may need to reshape the neck and sand it as the fretboard will move slightly (from the neck). You will then need to oil it as the heat will dry the wood out. You can send it to me for a proper repair if you want...
@@FretFriendGWaL really appreciate your reply as despite of an information super highway it gone pretty lonely waiting for any word on what's good and the doom sayers "don't do anything" be nice if I could send pics and give me an idea of of where I'm at, but thx for your input.
@@FretFriendGWaL hi there. Firstly big thanks for taking time out to answer. The twist was strange but im glad it was. Looking up at the neck flat from bridge p/u to nut to last 2/3 frets had a ramp type thing, more pronounced on the E&A strings. Before seeing your reply i put a wet towel on the back of neck and ran iron back n forth or in the effected are, then clamped in 3 places with wood above and below. The music shop where i took it said id have to have fret board removed and levelled but felt i had to try. I have no pics before sadly, but have a couple taken no strings or nut so there was nothing to distract the eye. It would be nice to send them, and where are you situated? Im in west yorks which is usually a disadvantage. Id of left my email but didnt know if this message is private. Hope to hear back from you and possible repair options. Mark
On the second attempt i used way more heat and clamped a 3 fet span with two clamps and its the best or closest to how it was pre-warping. I was told by local music shop after the fact but before i saw your reply that heat was bad, bollox.
Dont know how you keep up with comments and thx for the reply.
Can I ask, how much bowing can be achieved, approximately? Brook Hoover mentioned that he has some 60s Japanese acoustics, touching upon a problem that costs guitar enthusiasts hundreds. I myself just picked up 1971 FG-140 Red Label Gakki for peaunuts. It sounds better than a Martin and it is playable - though you wouldn't want to try making a bar chord. To remedy it they say requires a neck rest at around 350 quid. So, would this method provide enough back bow to reduce a few mill at the 12th fret do you think?
If it was originally straight, regardless of how much bend it has now, it can be bent back. You are only coaxing the wood grain back to it's original state. On a non-finished wood, you could also try steaming it while clamped though I would use that approach with caution! Regards, Victor...
Where do you get the metal plates from which go between frets and the iron 🤔
Just steel strips from eBay years ago...
@@FretFriendGWaL thanks nice method l will use this on a neck with single action truss with outwards bow 👌🏼
If anyone sees this - how easy is this to screw up? Is it possible to go too far and end up with a back bow? I want to try it on a 1950s archtop, but I'll experiment on a Harley Benton first 😅
It's always possible you can go too far so: make sure you don't! :D
@@FretFriendGWaL that's valuable advice for life in general 👍🏼😅
Hay i am trying to restore a guitar and im about to replace the frets its and old guitar and it have little bow but what its best first install new frets straight the neck and than sand the frets or first straight the neck than add new frets ?
Always straighten the neck as much as possible before installing new frets. If you cannot straighten it, you are going to have problems...
Thanks, man. I have a slightly different problem. I bought a very used/abused bass (for next to nothing), and it's got a very wide neck/fretboard. The neck passes the straightedge test lengthwise, but my problem is cross-wise, the neck is so warped that it's got a "negative fretboard radius". It has three truss rods (so does my 9 string schecter, but luckily, I've never had to adjust it as it's rock solid). Would it be possible to loosen the middle rod, and tighten the outer 2, slowly more over time? Or would that start cracking/breaking stuff? Or, would it be possible to support the very center of the neck underneath, and use a ratcheting strap and a couple blocks of wood on the outside edges of the neck, and use an iron like this, slowly tightening over time? If not, I've removed fretboards before, but god what a pain in the ass.
Straighten it with all truss rods loose using whatever methods needed! The truss rods should only be used under string tension so, ideally, you want the neck straight without the truss rods being tightened. Victor...
@@FretFriendGWaL Thanks, really appreciate it!
Hi Victor - can this be used as a possible fix for an end of neck flip-up on a maple strat neck? It's on the bass side of the neck - I assume it occured because I use 12's - frets are level and no matter how I adjust the truss it doesn't help. Thanks!
A common job I do quite a lot: I have a 73 LP and a 90's Warwick bass in at the mo with severly twisted necks at the headstock end. You will need a neck jig or you have to find a way of clamping the neck to a flat bench. Check this video at 1 hour, 3 minutes and 9 seconds: ruclips.net/video/GVDB3YCm5GA/видео.html
@@FretFriendGWaL I will see what I can do - at least there's hope. Thanks Vic!
I read ages ago that over time the guitar will return to its original warp and a good sign of that is if the guitar doesnt hold tune when left sitting for a while.
You are coaxing the wood back to it's original shape so why would it bend out of shape again? The reason guitars warp is because they are not stored under the right conditions. If there is moisture in the air the storage area, the guitar will keep it's shape. They go out of shape because they dry out...
@@FretFriendGWaL He was talking about repairing a forward bow, maybe thats why? I have no idea im no expert but im interested in knowing if there is a point a neck cant be repaired and when you decide to shave the fretboard instead.
@@GibsonLesPaul2273 There is always a point where a neck is no longer repairable I think. Funny thing, I am currently repairing one of my own recent purchases where the neck just would not go straight. I actually have it straight now using just reverse-clamping and I have added a washer between the truss rod adjuster and the rod itself to give me more adjustment. Now I need to fix the belly bulge and forward tilting bridge. Pretty confident I will get that fixed too. There will be a video on that soon so watch out for that. Regards, Victor...
@@FretFriendGWaL Thanks for the education and glad its working for you. I have a very expensive classical with a sudden warp at the 2nd fret on on side and the 6th fret on the other side plus a bulge at the 14th fret so I think I need to sand it down instead of trying to bend it into shape. It has a truss rod but its not adjustable another reason I think sanding and re-fret is the only option, but its expensive and ive only skimmed and refretted 1 electric.
Ive got my classical in the same setup as your video clamped up but with some water tubes in the sound hole and wrapped it in a damp towel and see if the re-humidify trick works first.
Hi, i have ibanez grg170dx left handed. i maked "Neck Straight Edge Notched" measured. Thin E side more relief. Truss rod not fixing this; Thick E straight, thin E relief. How to fix? heat thin E side with clamp? fix options? i need a help. Thank you.
You need to loosen the truss rod and clamp the neck. Once it is in a straight position, you need to put some heat there! Maybe a hair dryer on the hot setting. You do not need as much heat as you may think. Leave the heat for maybe 1 hour (not too hot). Then remove the clamp and check. If it does not work, tighten the clamp a little more and repeat...
@@FretFriendGWaL with steel ? thin e side? on middle string? fret radius with heated straight steel no problem? Sorry for my english. Thank you.
I have an old guitar (very old, Harwood parlor from 1926). Do you think this method would be too risky? The strings are approximately 1cm above the the board at the 12th fret.
I really have no idea but... what have you got to lose? Of course, it's at your own risk! I don't see why it should be a problem. Just take it steady and bend a little at a time. Regards, Victor...
Hello , How much temperature should I put on my iron clothes? 1100watts one
Enough to penetrate the wood fibre but not enough to melt the inlays or scorch the finish! It is a job you MUST watch and I mean: WATCH! Do not leave it for any length of time. I have caused damage by not keeping watch. I have no set temperature. Regards, Victor...
@@FretFriendGWaL In the past i had to pay for a "deluxe fretboard service" which as quite expensive, I think i was fooled because i never saw traces of the fingerboard was removed for maintenance, with this method you saved me a lot of trouble, thanks a lot dude.
Hello. And if the frets are previously glued with superglue?
Not my problem...
@@FretFriendGWaL Lol. I meant if in your experience if it is necessary to reglue the frets.
I would not think so. If they were glued in on a straight neck, they should be fine after straightening! I don't use superglue myself: I hate the stuff...
could I do this without loosening the truss rod? I want to try this on a bowed peavey foundation neck, and the truss is so deep its unreachable and is probably maxed out according to a luthier who saw it
I would say no but it's your guitar...
Some concern here: Would this method last any long? The neck will go under tension if put the strings back onto it for sure, wouldn't the neck crook back soon again?
No
i have a beloved ibanez st from 1980 thats back bowed, can i send it to you for a fix? you seem skilled
Posting is always an option! Contact me through the facebook link in the description. Victor...
Would you always put the support block around the 6/7th fret, or would it depend on where the bow is worst?
Where it is needed :)
Where can I by all the stuff I need to do this? What’s the name of each tool. Could you put in the description
There is nothing difficult here: you can see what is needed :)
Hello. If I do this without the heat and let the neck with clamps for a week, will it straighten it?
In my experience: no! You have nothing to lose by tring it...
Bingo! It really worked! I followed your steps and now my old lawsuit strat neck is straight. I aploied heat for 20 minutes and let it set down for 12 hours before removing the clamps. Thank very much you sir!
Now do you losen the truss rod or keep it where its at?
I always loosen the truss rod when straightening...
Does this work on Classical Guitars?
It works on all necks...
Is there water in the clothes iron? Does it need to steam? Thanks for the video!
No, just a dry iron though you could steam a non-finished (non-glossed) neck...
I have a 1968 Gibson Hummingbird Acoustic Guitar that has a slight Wharp in the Neck. Where can I find someone that knows how to fix this. I am in New Jersey, USA
I have no idea...
How would you go about putting some relief or up bow in a neck with too much back bow with a loosened truss rod?
I have a strat that I refretted years ago but when I came to level it came across this probably and it's been sat ever since....about 6 years!
You would read the comment I made in the description of this video that explains how to do that :)
Same method but clamp the guitar under the heal and under the 1st fret; add the metal strip as before then use another clamp around fret 7 and tighten it to remove back-bow; use the same method with a hot clothes iron to get heat into the frets/into the wood...
Fret Friend Thanks so much for the reply, I failed to read the description on my phone :/
I hope this little jem sorts out my 40 year old fender neck now and can level and dress the frets etc. Nice to know ur local to me keep up the awesome videos and tutorials, prob the best I've seen on youtube . :)
I hope you can sort it! If I get a spare 5 minutes, I'll do a small video showing hot to clamp to get a little back-bow using a similar method to this one. Victor...
How you get front bow?
Dave Bones take the strings off but leave the truss rod tight, put under for 20 years will give you a back bow. Or, leave strings on, loosen the truss rod, leave under bed for 20 years and you have a forward bow. If you can’t wait 20 years, put it in a hot attic, or a weekend in a car trunk on a hot summer day.
too much for the truss rod?
Hey? If I'm straightening a neck using clamps and/or heat, you can guarantee the truss rod is NOT doing the job it should! Why else would I be using these methods?
@@FretFriendGWaL well, because if you can not take off a simple relief with the truss rod, maybe it is broken and you should change it...
A common problem in a place like the former great Britain with its cold, damp climate - warped necks on guitars. The cheaper the guitar....
thank you.
Cool, I subscribed. Thanks a lot
Nice one Brook, thanks :) Victor...
You bet Victor. I have a few old 60's Japanese guitars that need this treatment. WAY HIGH action. Where are you based? I am in the middle of the US in Iowa.
Nottingham, England...
Hot water bottle looks like it would be perfect for that and it stays hot for a lot more time than cloth
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