I made some home made clamps for tension against the bow, I wrap the neck with multiple heating pads for a couple hours while under tension. Then turn off the heat sources and leave the guitar in the clamps. The glue Will then reset in the correct postion as it cools you want to keep it in clamps hold it in place as it cools down.. This seems to work well.
It's not a 'heating element', it needs to be steam. The steam softens the wood and returns it to its natural pliability, where you can GRADUALLY brace/clamp it to move it into the shape you want it to be whilst applying the steam, then you stop the steaming and leave it braced/clamped in that state to 'dry' in that state for a couple of days. Removing the varnish first helps for absorption, and after its all 'dry' after at least THREE DAYS, you can rub in some linseed oil with a cloth, to help retain the strength of the wood. It's probable that a professional luthier would remove the fretboard first and treat that seperately. This is not a simple process, as it is very easy to crack the neck if you get it wrong.
Thanks Mr Pedantic. He gave a basic tutorial on heating and bending a guitar neck. he made multiple statements about trying his method on cheap guitars, If you want to play master luthier by yelling THREE DAYS go right ahead and post something better. This guy is trying to help. your pompous attitude sucks.
@@chrisfoster9080 It has to be steam. Drying the wood with an iron is a bad idea. Also, this very GENEROUS and HELPFUL tutorial does not show a before after comparison of the string action. So only god knows what the end result was.
@@mendebil Sorry, but this is a method used in other variations by professional Luthiers like myself the world over. We often use an electrically heated bar and clamps with carefully placed Cauls to encourage a reverse bend in the neck. Its not the same as steam bending wood. We are encouraging the wood to take on a slightly different flexion using the moisture already contained within the wood. we are talking mm. here. Also softens the glue under the fret board. Sometimes we re-fret the fingerboard with frets that have a larger tang to do the same.
Sorry, but this is a method used in other variations by professional Luthiers like myself the world over. We often use an electrically heated bar and clamps with carefully placed Cauls to encourage a reverse bend in the neck. Its not the same as steam bending wood. We are encouraging the wood to take on a slightly different flexion using the moisture already contained within the wood. we are talking mm. here. Also softens the glue under the fret board. Sometimes we re-fret the fingerboard with frets that have a larger tang to do the same.
@@antonia4722 Hot air gun, 2 cauls above the 12th area (above the block) and around the 1st, a strong bar above the cauls, and a few clamps in the middle throughout cool down also does a decent job, for those without expensive gear, but needs a bit of experience for obvious reasons.
yup.this the right way. i do guitar for people. but not with the heated iron!! lol!! this is how i do it. if the guitar is bend 1 mm ,clamp it 2mm the other way and leave it outside for a day or 2 but not in direct sunlight. works wonder with 2 guitar that ive done. even one with truss rod but thats bended at the 12 fret.
I take the strings off and add water to the fretboard. You can then carefully add heat from a hair drier or space heater. This part can be tricky. Steaming the neck can ruin the finish on the backside if you apply too much steam from a tea pot or coffee pot.
I tried this today, applying heat and some pressure between 2 books, on an expensive guitar!! Neck was bowed from 35+ years of extra high tension strings.I thought, well, as long as I was careful not to apply too much pressure, I'd be ok. Through this pandemic I was also concerned that a good luthier wouldn't be available. And it seems to have worked like a charm! So, thanks! But i'd agree with you, not to do this on an expensive instrument unless a whole lot of care is taken.
@@ToffyPinoy a few rtimes but very carefully. Applied heat and then applied pressure for a few minutes. A decent amount of pressure but not too much. Better too little than too much.
@@grantmiller414 For me it didn't work, idk what've done wrong but it didn't work, even with a lot of pressure for some reason the neck wasn't straightened at all
Great video, I love how you do this delicate operation the simplest way possible. I'm going to try this on a flamenco guitar that I'm fixing for a friend.
I removed the frets on my classical guitar and planed the neck flat. I bought new fret wire and glued in new frets. The neck never bowed again and has remained straight for years even with constant string tension. I have another more expensive classical guitar with a similar problem but haven't decided how to attack it yet. Scary
You are very underrated you deserve more subscribers because you helped me and RUclipsrs basically made for solving problems and not for just showing off your expensive things like some RUclipsrs do.... Subscribed🙂
An iron is used to soften the glue used to hold the frets in so this may not be the best method. A heating pad would be ideal. I used a hair dryer and made the neck damp and bent it further the other direction. It moved but a little. Maybe several times of doing that.
Very good informative video. I'm trying this on my 69 Harmony, which I'ver restored, but the neck is bowed and there's only a metal rod in the neck. No truss rod. I'll try this before removing the neck and see how it plays. Thanks!
So when i understand fully on this video i also understand the detail because some of guitarist rules is not to put your guitar on heated area because the neck will be softer and the tightens of strings pull the neck to a High bow action, so thats why we get an high action because of heat.
Basically what your doing what is called a heat press. But a Luthier would have used a heat mat or a sanding beam with heat source in it. Usually put clamps and wood over it clamp. Key is get right amount of heat sometimes it works sometimes it does not 50/50 with that kind of repair. That is a classical usually when they warp a Luthier well do a re fret which is cheaper than a neck reset. Neck reset cost usually around $500.00 there are poor man neck resets and tricks to keep cost down like strap button reset.
@@51MontyPython Take a razor saw cut the heel until you get to figure board sand heel until angle is right then drill a hole into the neck heel put a long screw threw strap button and heel . Changes angle with out full reset. Luthiers sometimes do it on guitars aren't worth dumping allot of money into.
I tried this on a medium priced classical I pressed it against a 100% level surface clamped AsF on a metal carpenter vice and then left it there for a few ours to cool down. It looked great without the strings but next day when stringed up it started fikng about again.😡 I am now thinking to try again. This time overbend it do it will return with strings tension to nearest possible to level. This will be risky guess work (with spacers, how much will it return, etc) but I just hate playing with high action. Great idea though and thanks for the video.
But however in the video there's NO NUT,thus it's quite interesting, however bear in mind a SMALL amount of relief is normal with Classical guitars 😮😮😊
I tried it a few times. I let the guitar sit anywhere between 6 hours to overnight. Depending on what climate you live in, it could naturally return back to the bowed position again. It managed to remain straight for a few days until I transported my guitar in the trunk and it the bow returned. It is a temporary fix, not permanent. Also, if you do this too much the fretboard can start to come off.
I got my acoustic guitars with both back-bowed and up-bowed. I thought that the up-bowed guitar needed to be treated like yours on video but should do in reversed way. 🤔 Thanks 👍🏼
i really dont know whether i should do this or not.................. my guitar has a truss rod but that truss rod is completely jammed......... and i dont know if this is a safe way to do it or not............ pls help me out with what i should do
Thank you for that video. My favorite classical guitar (had it for over 40 years by now) have started to show a twist in the neck several years after moving to a dryer climate. Would this heating hack work if I use the clamps such that I pull the neck into a reverse twist after heating??
What's the brand name of your guitar? I found one just like it in a damp shed and I plan to restore it but see no make or model information accept it has C221 sticker on back top of neck.
I have an old one that has 2 of the strings are made out of steel and it has a very drastic upbow and idk if i should try to fix it and get new strings
Nice idea, but there is no way of controlling how much or little it adjusts with any accuracy. As he said, try it on a cheap guitar, and if it works out, happy days. But don't count on it .
I always just either sand down the bridge and nut or make little grooves where the strings will sit lower but if the strings are more than half an inch away then I would probably cut it I guess it depends on what type of guitar it was but you can go to any pawn shop and buy a shitty guitar for $30 so unless I found like some really old Martin or Taylor or some name brand like that I wouldn't even mess with it
Great video. For me, it did not work, but thats more my cautiousness. And mine is bowed on a 1970s classical. Very tough stuff. I could stand on it with 2 feet and its strong... I weigh 127kg to note
for me, ah yes much that that one guitar needed lower bridge and more bow actually. I mean that may be the more common problem right, luthiers correct me if wrong, but you the file the bridge right. also what the neck!, the neck should be bent evenly! even!
I tried watching this video. But it didn't move at all. I learned that wood does not move with the average human weight. You must have a professional tool clamp.. You can work with just one clamp. However, even with straight correction, when the clamps are removed, it can be seen trying to return to its curved shape. Uneasy
I made some home made clamps for tension against the bow, I wrap the neck with multiple heating pads for a couple hours while under tension. Then turn off the heat sources and leave the guitar in the clamps. The glue Will then reset in the correct postion as it cools you want to keep it in clamps hold it in place as it cools down.. This seems to work well.
Can you use a medical heat blanket use for arthritis etc? Thanks
Thank you for explaining all the different problems related to neck bending. Amazing video.
It's not a 'heating element', it needs to be steam. The steam softens the wood and returns it to its natural pliability, where you can GRADUALLY brace/clamp it to move it into the shape you want it to be whilst applying the steam, then you stop the steaming and leave it braced/clamped in that state to 'dry' in that state for a couple of days. Removing the varnish first helps for absorption, and after its all 'dry' after at least THREE DAYS, you can rub in some linseed oil with a cloth, to help retain the strength of the wood. It's probable that a professional luthier would remove the fretboard first and treat that seperately. This is not a simple process, as it is very easy to crack the neck if you get it wrong.
Thanks Mr Pedantic. He gave a basic tutorial on heating and bending a guitar neck. he made multiple statements about trying his method on cheap guitars, If you want to play master luthier by yelling THREE DAYS go right ahead and post something better. This guy is trying to help. your pompous attitude sucks.
@@chrisfoster9080 It has to be steam. Drying the wood with an iron is a bad idea. Also, this very GENEROUS and HELPFUL tutorial does not show a before after comparison of the string action. So only god knows what the end result was.
@@mendebil Sorry, but this is a method used in other variations by professional Luthiers like myself the world over. We often use an electrically heated bar and clamps with carefully placed Cauls to encourage a reverse bend in the neck. Its not the same as steam bending wood. We are encouraging the wood to take on a slightly different flexion using the moisture already contained within the wood. we are talking mm. here. Also softens the glue under the fret board. Sometimes we re-fret the fingerboard with frets that have a larger tang to do the same.
Sorry, but this is a method used in other variations by professional Luthiers like myself the world over. We often use an electrically heated bar and clamps with carefully placed Cauls to encourage a reverse bend in the neck. Its not the same as steam bending wood. We are encouraging the wood to take on a slightly different flexion using the moisture already contained within the wood. we are talking mm. here. Also softens the glue under the fret board. Sometimes we re-fret the fingerboard with frets that have a larger tang to do the same.
@@antonia4722 Hot air gun, 2 cauls above the 12th area (above the block) and around the 1st, a strong bar above the cauls, and a few clamps in the middle throughout cool down also does a decent job, for those without expensive gear, but needs a bit of experience for obvious reasons.
Incredible fix. I have a cheap but really nice classical guitar and it had this really annoying bend. Thank you very much my friend 🙇
yup.this the right way. i do guitar for people. but not with the heated iron!! lol!! this is how i do it. if the guitar is bend 1 mm ,clamp it 2mm the other way and leave it outside for a day or 2 but not in direct sunlight. works wonder with 2 guitar that ive done. even one with truss rod but thats bended at the 12 fret.
I take the strings off and add water to the fretboard. You can then carefully add heat from a hair drier or space heater. This part can be tricky. Steaming the neck can ruin the finish on the backside if you apply too much steam from a tea pot or coffee pot.
I tried this today, applying heat and some pressure between 2 books, on an expensive guitar!! Neck was bowed from 35+ years of extra high tension strings.I thought, well, as long as I was careful not to apply too much pressure, I'd be ok. Through this pandemic I was also concerned that a good luthier wouldn't be available. And it seems to have worked like a charm! So, thanks! But i'd agree with you, not to do this on an expensive instrument unless a whole lot of care is taken.
Your bowed guitar is okay now ?
@@sonicsheath IUt's a lot better, haven't tightened strings back up yet though
how many times did you do it?
@@ToffyPinoy a few rtimes but very carefully. Applied heat and then applied pressure for a few minutes. A decent amount of pressure but not too much. Better too little than too much.
@@grantmiller414 For me it didn't work, idk what've done wrong but it didn't work, even with a lot of pressure for some reason the neck wasn't straightened at all
Great video, I love how you do this delicate operation the simplest way possible. I'm going to try this on a flamenco guitar that I'm fixing for a friend.
To be honest this made me happy my great grandpas guitar which I know own I think has a bit of an up bow at the top of it like first fret wise
I removed the frets on my classical guitar and planed the neck flat. I bought new fret wire and glued in new frets. The neck never bowed again and has remained straight for years even with constant string tension. I have another more expensive classical guitar with a similar problem but haven't decided how to attack it yet. Scary
Thank you for the video. It helped me a lot and I did this to a classical guitar I repaired. 🎸
Ohhh, i really like this guy... How he explain how he draw (still better than me).. Yes... Those coming out when heatimg are oil/grease..
Bro where did u go we need part 2 we need more videos of u this helped a lot thanks
You are very underrated you deserve more subscribers because you helped me and RUclipsrs basically made for solving problems and not for just showing off your expensive things like some RUclipsrs do.... Subscribed🙂
An iron is used to soften the glue used to hold the frets in so this may not be the best method. A heating pad would be ideal. I used a hair dryer and made the neck damp and bent it further the other direction. It moved but a little. Maybe several times of doing that.
I tried this but when I put the ironbox on my neck fret clips melted inside the guitar neck... 😭😭😭... But still it bent again
I was searching this video 😮everywhere but I find it finally
I'm in awe of your tuition.. thankyou watching from the UK
You can do this to garage sale guitars and give them to kids to learn on. It's amazing or sad how little people know about simply bending a board
Very good informative video. I'm trying this on my 69 Harmony, which I'ver restored, but the neck is bowed and there's only a metal rod in the neck. No truss rod. I'll try this before removing the neck and see how it plays. Thanks!
So when i understand fully on this video i also understand the detail because some of guitarist rules is not to put your guitar on heated area because the neck will be softer and the tightens of strings pull the neck to a High bow action, so thats why we get an high action because of heat.
Basically what your doing what is called a heat press. But a Luthier would have used a heat mat or a sanding beam with heat source in it. Usually put clamps and wood over it clamp. Key is get right amount of heat sometimes it works sometimes it does not 50/50 with that kind of repair. That is a classical usually when they warp a Luthier well do a re fret which is cheaper than a neck reset. Neck reset cost usually around $500.00 there are poor man neck resets and tricks to keep cost down like strap button reset.
What's a strap button reset?
@@51MontyPython Take a razor saw cut the heel until you get to figure board sand heel until angle is right then drill a hole into the neck heel put a long screw threw strap button and heel . Changes angle with out full reset. Luthiers sometimes do it on guitars aren't worth dumping allot of money into.
I tried this on a medium priced classical
I pressed it against a 100% level surface clamped AsF on a metal carpenter vice and then left it there for a few ours to cool down.
It looked great without the strings but next day when stringed up it started fikng about again.😡
I am now thinking to try again. This time overbend it do it will return with strings tension to nearest possible to level. This will be risky guess work (with spacers, how much will it return, etc) but I just hate playing with high action. Great idea though and thanks for the video.
what were the rezultz?
You have to wait at least 3 days after the guitar neck “dries up”
No where's the part two?
thanx but heat removes glue you dont want to apply to the fretboatd which is glued to the neck , you should have tried heating the back of the neck
Can I use a heat blower to straighten it?
Sometimes the truss rod is accessable by removing the nut. The rod adjustment is cleverly hidden by the nut. I found this out by accident.
But however in the video there's NO NUT,thus it's quite interesting, however bear in mind a SMALL amount of relief is normal with Classical guitars 😮😮😊
Look closely and you will see the white nut. @@susanroycroft89
@@susanroycroft89 Yes there is a nut on it lol
perfect explanation, realy good. i need to ask, how did you get so much knowledge, i know YT can help, but there is more there than just YT knowledge
It's always good to fix your own problems.. But did this fix the guitar and how long did it last ? Thank you , Good job.
I tried it a few times. I let the guitar sit anywhere between 6 hours to overnight. Depending on what climate you live in, it could naturally return back to the bowed position again. It managed to remain straight for a few days until I transported my guitar in the trunk and it the bow returned. It is a temporary fix, not permanent. Also, if you do this too much the fretboard can start to come off.
I got my acoustic guitars with both back-bowed and up-bowed. I thought that the up-bowed guitar needed to be treated like yours on video but should do in reversed way. 🤔 Thanks 👍🏼
i really dont know whether i should do this or not.................. my guitar has a truss rod but that truss rod is completely jammed......... and i dont know if this is a safe way to do it or not............ pls help me out with what i should do
Thank you for that video. My favorite classical guitar (had it for over 40 years by now) have started to show a twist in the neck several years after moving to a dryer climate. Would this heating hack work if I use the clamps such that I pull the neck into a reverse twist after heating??
What is that pen you’re using?
wtf bro hahahahahahahah thats the best question so far in this video hahahaha
Lol
What's the brand name of your guitar? I found one just like it in a damp shed and I plan to restore it but see no make or model information accept it has C221 sticker on back top of neck.
The video is great, and this is a great hack. But I also think this guy's voice is incredibly soothing. You should make some sleep videos
I have an old one that has 2 of the strings are made out of steel and it has a very drastic upbow and idk if i should try to fix it and get new strings
Are frets glued in?
The iron used in the video looks like a steam iron, which might have contained some water in its tank.
Nice idea, but there is no way of controlling how much or little it adjusts with any accuracy. As he said, try it on a cheap guitar, and if it works out, happy days. But don't count on it .
Amazing video. You are an expert
Now we need the part 2
What do I comic the neck is dry
I always just either sand down the bridge and nut or make little grooves where the strings will sit lower but if the strings are more than half an inch away then I would probably cut it I guess it depends on what type of guitar it was but you can go to any pawn shop and buy a shitty guitar for $30 so unless I found like some really old Martin or Taylor or some name brand like that I wouldn't even mess with it
Great video. For me, it did not work, but thats more my cautiousness. And mine is bowed on a 1970s classical. Very tough stuff. I could stand on it with 2 feet and its strong... I weigh 127kg to note
Would this be worth trying if the guitar has a broken truss rod?
Nope, but you can replace the truss rod
Is this a yamaha G170A model?
Wow talk about DIY! Very cool.
Where is part two?
If you heat the frets up there is a big chance the glue gets loose.. Maybe its smarter to heat the neck on the back.
Hello dear, nice video and explanation. We are looking to see the next promised video. Thanks a lot.
Part 2... anybody ?
such varied is the technique of the Luthier /m/,
for me, ah yes much that that one guitar needed lower bridge and more bow actually.
I mean that may be the more common problem right, luthiers correct me if wrong, but you the file the bridge right.
also what the neck!, the neck should be bent evenly! even!
Excellent video, thank you very much
Ez nem egy musima euro strar klasszikus gitár amit csinálsz.
can you do thid with strings are on?
he's got some nasty gaps in that woodblock flooring
Please before you fix anything else please turn on a lite!
I believe that is a classic guitar,which to my knowledge doesn't have a truss rod.
I have an old silvertone,no truss rod so I'm trying to decide what to do,it's unplayable because the action is so high.I do appreciate the video.
good vid!
Explanation starts at 5min
Thanks
The top 2 parts of the neck is not playing its note
Great video, but a combination of water and years of finger goo is kinda disgusting.
It's too dark. Can see the whole repair clearly.
could just be the fret glue
Gorenje pegla
this didnt work ;/
a capo on a classical guitar ? No...
Next video 😥
I tried watching this video.
But it didn't move at all. I learned that wood does not move with the average human weight. You must have a professional tool clamp.. You can work with just one clamp.
However, even with straight correction, when the clamps are removed, it can be seen trying to return to its curved shape. Uneasy