How to polish copperFill & bronzeFill filament
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- Опубликовано: 3 июл 2024
- Polish metal filament to look like it was cast in metal!
This week we show you how to print in copper or bronze and polish to a shine!
Read more on: learn.adafruit.com/copperfill...
STL Downloads seen in video:
Aria the dragon by Louise Driggers
www.thingiverse.com/thing:246198
Raspberry Pi B+ Face Case (Domo)
www.thingiverse.com/thing:417507
USB Charger Robot
www.thingiverse.com/thing:318389
Trinket Question Block
www.thingiverse.com/thing:541816
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I had never though to use a tumbler!
Great idea!
*
How I get 'found piece' look with ColorFabb Copper Filled.
Special tools: Burnisher made from highly polished bit of 2mm 'music wire'.
It has a 'ball-end' and can reach just about anywhere.
The process:
1) Shave off layer-lines on broad areas and outside curves with a cabinet scraper. Small knife everywhere else. Be very detail oriented, but don't sweat surface finish!
2) Buff up every surfaces with fine stiff wire brush.
This will selectively remove plastic from the metal.
400 grit sand paper then 00 or finer steel wool to refine the look on high spots. Leave crevices and depressions alone!
3) Burnish everywhere, but keep the work piece cool!
Burnishing compacts and flattens the metal grains, forces excess plastic to the surface.
Hand warmth is enough to soften the piece; ColorFabb Copper Fill has to be hard to respond to burnishing!
Keep the work clean, but use very little water!
Soaking in warm water has softened pieces significantly...the copper seems to get wet, looses its bond with the plastic.
4) Once it is nice and shiny, lightly sand with 600-1200 grit sand-paper to dull the finish a bit. Don't miss a spot!
This strips off any surface plastic, preps the copper for step the next.
5) Something something vinegar and salt...I haven't found the magic recipe that works every time...then again, random results for a found piece, eh?
6) Steel wool and burnish the high-spots to get back bright metal, leaving patina in the crevices.
Steps 1-3 make a 'well-used' finish while hiding the 3d-print origins...smooth high-spots and dull crevices suggest long use.
4-5 make it old, 6 makes it look semi-restored.
Wow, very cool idea with the screw tumbling
Try burnishing with the back of a spoon. They do that with cold casting and the results are incredible.
This would make an awesome chess set using both metals for each half of the full set.
Are you adding water to the tumbler? I've also seen a clip where they add dish soap?
Hasn't anyone noticed -> The brass screws ARE NOT just polishing the PLA they are coating your print with BRASS!! THat is why they look so shiny and why standard tumbling with walnut shells don't work.
If you really want copper or bronze etc, tumble with traditional abrasives and then patina and coat with epoxy.
>they are coating your print with BRASS
which is a good thing
why does it have to be made from brass in the first place then?
exactly my point, however there are now 88% metal PLA filaments available which do polish well using rouge and a polishing wheel
Good to know. Can you make a recommendation?
It would be nice to test if other materials can be 'gilded' in the same way.
I wonder if the bronze fill would make a good bushing?
to make a green patina, use Ammonium hydroxide vapor in a jar.
It'd be helpful to know how much media you use. FIll the barrel 50%? 10%? 25%. Or amount of screws by weight...
Does it make a good conductor?
What about polishing creams and cloths?
Looks good using the tumbler, but would it not be easy to just spray the models with metallic paint?
Which is the best media for iron filled PLA? Do brass screws work or would stainless steel pins be better?
Curious...if you tumble a normal PLA with copper screws...how does it come out?
I have a printed piece that is 3 inches wide and 5 inches long. its maybe 1/8" thick. Would that Lortone 3A Single Barrel Tumbler be a suitable size or does the piece need a lot of extra space?
When will Brassfill be available?
What scanner did you use for the bust shots
such a good idea with the screws. I have shell tumbler and have tried using the walnut shells, graphite etc, but it doesn't seem to give me the finish i want. Will definitely try this out! Also? Nice vid. Quality shots, good b roll, excellent lighting. keep it up!
be interesting to see how it takes to polishing compounds. sand it up to 2k grit then hit it with some red compound
Thank you for the video!! What 3D printer, for around £900 max, do you think would be best to get? Any advice would be appreciated!! Thank you :)
Would it be possible to use also an vibratory bowl instead the rotating rock tumble, because the vibratory bowl is more gently to fragil prints?
Thanks!
Did you try it?
Do it need to be Cooper skrev
does this contains real bronze.. can we gild this?
Would polishing with standard brass polishing media work? Hand loaders use vibratory tumblers with a walnut shell media to polish brass cartridges to a very high sheen.
+Rich Brungard I used fine brass filings from a metal shop and those worked incredibly well! Better than anything else and they were much more gentle on the print. You can get it from a local metal shop, or check on eBay. It's usually around $15/lb
why use screws instead of brass bullet polishing pins
I'd print a cool menger sponge paperweight
Which 3d printers are used in this video?
If it's conductive, I guess you could print circuit boards using dual extruders. One with PLA and one with copper fill. 3d circuit boards.
there is filament especially made for being conductive
Would it be alright for you if I use parts of this video in my documentary about 3D printing?
Of course I would give you credit :)
Hey! I have one question - would it be possible to use parts of this video in my upcoming documentary about 3D printers? :) best regards
Couldn't you also use a buffing wheel on a Dremel and some metal polish to do the job a lot quicker than tumbling and a better outcome than sanding?
Mike Trieu yes... Yes you could
no, spent about 2 hours today trying to do just that, and no matter how slow you go with the rpms it doesnt A. shine it up, B. it melts it and C. it just makes it worse tumbling is the way to go
question could you use a metal powder (copper/brass/etc)? thanks
you could probably use small ball bearings, but powder will probably be too small and would therefore take a lot longer for similar results.
That's cool but there isn't much detail on the faces or other parts of the figures or bust. I wonder if it is possible to get more detail out of the printer or if fine details would need to be carved into figures with hand tools after printing them.
Cast, casted is not a word.
+MiggyManMike It is an older form but not entirely dead. Most teachers would likely mark down for using it but that does not make them right. Word usage is determined by popular usage not by decree.
I word usage was determined by popular usage we would speak Idiot, not English.
Fair enough, I was unaware of this :)
Was that supposed to be "If" ? :D
MiggyManMike Yeah, thanks for pointing that out ;p
It has been suggested that the objects are not being polished so much as being gilded as brass particles knocked off of the screws are worked into the surface. It would be nice to test if other materials can be 'gilded' in the same way.
Skyler Thompson i
Interesting. I'm just building a tumbler for both bronze filled and iron filled PLA. Was going to use stainless steel pins.
Those prints didn't come out very well... The ones I have done had the best detail I have seen in a 3D print.... Possible that I used different settings than you.
Share your prints and post up photos! We'll blog them up.
You need to increase your retract length and add some end print gcode to retract properly a few mm (5mm is a good number) at the end of a print. Definitely worth the trouble calibrating, then you will never have to clean up stringy bits of prints again.
It has been suggested that the objects are not being polished so much as being gilded as brass particles knocked off of the screws are worked into the surface. It would be nice to test if other materials can be 'gilded' in the same way.
Casted is not a word. At least not in the context you are using it in. it's "Cast"
e.g. "Cast iron"
Casted is an older form, and is still technically a word. The word, "casted," has actually been making a come-back in recent years.
Its a sucession of letters so its definitely a word.
Dnbfndndjsndrnrnnjrjrrn
^sucession of letters
Is that a word :-P ?
Glen Beestone actually yes.
Can regular PLA be finished like this in a tumbler? Or does this only work with copper fill, and bronze fill.
riley hdog Tumbling like this is a traditional metal finishing process.
Thanks!
Purty darn clever. :*)
is this stuff conductive? (because it has copper particles in it), or not?
Came here to ask that. Could someone print a line of it and measure its resistance or something?
Recusant Doubt the density required would still allow for the PLA to strongly bond all the particles together...
STcraft Neither bronzefill nor copperfill are conductive.
I would try to print a brass instrument like a trombone. or at the least, mouthpieces.
have you guys tried aluminum PLA?
Does anyone know where I could order brass screws in bulk? (Sweden/Europe)
Katja Tsychkova b and q?
Can this material be oxidized some how?
+DaLi Yeah sure. Every metal will oxidise like you expect it too. So bronze and Iron fill can create some really interesting finish on your print if left to oxidise.
where to buy this machine polishing?
+Marcin M You can get a lortone tumbler on Amazon.
make your own. lots of youtubes describing how. super easy and tons cheaper, and get a much bigger one that can do large prints.
If you did nerdy stand up I would actually pay like a little bit of money to watch it
it's just easier to finish it with copper or brass looking paint :P
we still need a better method, gluing it back together is not the best idea and almost kill the point of 3D printing
You sound like a preacher in this video. :-D
Barnacules Nerdgasm
baby shoes like people copper coat baby shoe you can scan and print instead
Is this stuff conductive? Maybe you could electroplate it afterwards. That would be pretty awesome :)
+brandon9271 My experience is that they are NOT conductive. Its PLA with 5%-10% bronze color dust (may or may not be actual bronze).
They claim it is about 50% metal by weight. Unpolished it may be unconductive, bu the polishing/burnishing will smear out the metal over the surface, connecting more parts. I would not be surprised if it was conductive after a good polish.
things have to be extremely conductive to electroplate ... throughout the media ... i.e. if you place 5V on one end it should be 5V on the other. I do wonder if you let it sit in a oversaturated ionic solution of copper, or similar, and introduced the right chemical to get it to precipitate out, if it would preferably precipitate onto the 3D print. Probably your best bet of coating it that way. Hmmm ... smelling an invention in the works - something to work on. You could spray it with a metal ion solution, let it dry ... and repeat the process. Seems like it would preferentially deposit on embedded metal if it was the same metal.
it is just 3D print coated with brass particles from the screws. come on - change the title
seems bored change the guy