Just buy a cheap RC Car its fun the problems will follows soon and then you'll need solutions start small with a File and Work your way Up. Maybe someday you buy some machinery
Man. I've been mesmerized by your videos for years. Imo, I would LOVE to see maybe a time-lapse timer along side the machining of all these parts. To someone who understands how much work that is, it's understood. But for most, including myself, I've never had the chance to mess around with machining, and I ALWAYS wonder how long it actually takes without the magic of editing. As always, keep up the amazing work brother!!
In my case it takes a little longer due to the size of my lathe, which is not rigid enough to take deep cuts on steel (its a champ in aluminium). The clutch bell for example took more or less 3 hours from start to finish.
If you put grooves then you create too much heat and cook the clutch. Also makes it grab too much and wear too fast. Needs to be a smooth but sudden action. I've messed around with a lot of RC clutches and CVT clutches in the past and learnt the hard way
maybe try to make it conical, larger surface area and self centering. better for resonance to. while you are at it, the chassis is flexing like crazy due to the length and torque..
Possibly use a different show material like in a car they make something like that I pretty sure for Traxxas slipper clutches ik different clutch but still same principle
This is the Johnny I subscribed to all those years ago, more projects like this please rather than all those unboxing videos of other peoples engines. You’ve got the skills to make your own engine! How about a V12!?
Nice work as always. Making shoes might be a little time consuming maybe for my 2 cents worth friction material in the bell and cross hatching on the shoes but I’m sure you have a plan already.. Keep up the great work
watch out for the weight of the flywheel, it will reduce your throttle response. metal on metal will always slip, get some break pad material and it will do even better
another version of the clutch bell could be with ventilation in mind. a few holes or spaces in the front a fins on the outside could improve your clutch system a lot. give it a try :D
When I saw you revving it without the bell on my anxiety rose through the roof. Did that once with a bigger engine and clutch and the shoes went flying. Thankfully nor me or my friend were injured but imagine if that hit anyones face! Good vid as always. Also please use aluminum/metal discs on this car and actual rubber tires.
Nice job Johnny.. now you need to build one for the Enjomore 78cc! Dennis Dempsey is currently working on one for his, but I don't think he has access to the machine tools that you have.😉 *EDIT:* Judging from the way the response is when you were testing, you may need to drop your 1st gear ratio considerably to make use of what little torque these have at high rpm's.. or stronger clutch springs to compensate.😄👍
stronger clutch springs is the last thing you need to put on one of these engines. They only rev to about 12-13k RPM as it is. You want that clutch engaging nice and low so you have a decent chance of getting the powerband while the clutch is engaged.
@@TestECull yeah, so looser clutch springs? The only problem with going too loose is that at idle you have the risk of the clutch rubbing all the time, a stiffer spring will allow for a higher rpm to be loaded up at. Lower rate springs should make the contact come earlier in the rpm
nice construction, the springs are a bit strorg for the alu shoes, you can also try to reverse the shoes so they grip instead of slipping. like the brakes in old drum brakes self powered. good luck.
Johnny, if you make a ring (temporary) to slip under the clutch shoes and hold them open (to a slightly bigger diameter than inside the bell) you can take a lick off the shoes to get the radius the same.
Add a little bit of weight to the clutch shoes or lower the spring tension a few grams if you're able to. And with 6 clutch shoes you could try putting 3 softer springs with 3 that you have. Might make it creep at idle but will have a smooth engagement
You could design a clutch with a lockout feature? You have the skills and tools to do it. Simple as adding some sprung latches that grab teeth on the bell. Centrifugal force adding to the locking force✌️✌️✌️also add some cooling fins or holes and try carbon Composit mixed with aluminium shoes Great stuff!
you could do a bullet-proof setup for a "clutch" with materials you already have^^ simply use another differential, where your motor/drivetrain connects to the output shafts and a normal r/c brake connects to the input shaft.. easy. when the brake is open, all the torque from the motor will spin the brake disc. when closing the brake, the diff will distribute the rpms to the drivetrain.. you just have to control the brake force with a servo (for what it is already made for). the brakepads replace the clutch material and can be bought rather cheap.
Suggestion: use a cross tube to connect the two flexible exhaust pipes. You will make more low and mid range power, without sacrificing any top end power. Cheers!
Nice work man. Thinking the custom shoes is the right idea. Maybe with adjustable weight? Seems like they definitely need to be of steel so they’re heavier.
Maybe loosen up the springs a bit on the clutch shoes, so they "bite" harder? Or make some adjustment system with setscrews that can be placed in different holes to stiffen or loosen the clutch shoe springs. Could work with weight aswell, holes where you can screw in or remove setscrews and those setscrews weight a bit which will make the shoes bite harder.
@@johnnyq90 Making them larger could give the opposite effect if youre not careful, since a larger surface area might mean less "bite" into the clutch bell. Bigger surface area means more friction, but also means more pressure is required to get a physical grip into the material.
Lovely design and build work sir! My only suggestion is that you epoxy on some suitable fiction material to those church fingers. That’ll solve the slipping issue.
when I seen the clutch shoes i immediately thought "why doesn't he have some kinda materiel on them for grip" and started to think about what you could use for a clutch materiel one thought is maybe trying some very high grit sandpaper like 1000 grit or higher getting into higher grits i think the overall thickness of the paper would be great for the tight tolerances you have to play with inside the clutch bell
You can line the clutch bell with thin cork sheet glued in place. It was this way on all my 3.5cc methanol/nitro clutches from the factory. These screamers made up to 1hp, and it's harder wearing than you think.
I'm not sure this was suggested yet, but what about using a clutch liner similar what we use for nitro rc helicopters clutches? The come in strips and are cheap and work very well.
Seems like you might be reaching the limits of a centrifugal clutch. Might you be better to fabricate a pressure plate/friction plate set up and either control it yourself manually, or with mixing in your transmitter so it engages when you hit say 5% throttle? Or something similar. Love your work dude.
Hi johnny, have you ever thought about a classic clutch like on real cars instead of a inertia driven one, or maybe a torque converter ? it would be maybe more controllable and allow a better control over the car
Why can't you be my neighbor, mine are boring and only make normal stock engine noises, not even chainsaw rc cars around here let alone one of your many amazing machines like this beast, I can't wait to see the finish!
Excellent job JohnnyQ90!!! I love watching how You self-diagnose the problem and work to build the new parts all yourself,using your own machined parts!!! : >)
This is going to be epic. Just the sound is freakin awesome, I bet it's nothing like hearing and feeling the power in person. Well done sir, you make this stuff look easy and I have no clue where to start if I attempted this lol. But you make me want to do this to my nitro rc car hahah
4 fixes... use heaver shoes made from steel... slightly lighter springs... I smaller inner diameter for the clutch bell... OR turn the shoes backwards.
Maybe you can add some inner liner to the clutch bell this would increase the grip inside the clutch bell and make it slip less or not at all, kind off like the nitro rc helicopter do for their clutch system, check one of those, the liner material I'm talking about is sold individually to apply to any clutch bell or you could source similar material if you find what it's made off
I saw you had slipping issues with the clutch (although it is a lot better) I think I have a solution. If you line the inner part of the clutch bell with friction pad. The only thing I don't know is if it will wear the shoes down. You would have to see but if it works it would take a hole lot to slip.
Some friction material on clutch weighs where they make contact with the bell would probably be a good solution. Aluminium on steel is a poor solution which will quickly gall.
The clutch shoes are in the wrong position, as the clutch bell is spinning, the shoes loses grip. If you turn the shoes so they face the other direction, they can build up more friction against the clutch bell. So that the system is similar to a drum break. You know what i mean :D? Nice Video tho, keep u the great work :D
Love your videos Johnny... I'm no expert but do you think a fibre/metal clutch interface would provide more grip as opposed to the metal/metal your using now? More like how a conventional clutch is setup in a regular car...
I think you could just make the clutch bigger in diameter, transfered torque = diameter³, because transfered torque is affected by centrifugal forse on clutch shoes, diameter of clutch bell (leverage) and amount of clutch shoes. All that would increse with diameter, so if you added 2 clutch shoes (1,33 times bigger diameter) it should transfer 2,37 times more torque.
this mans talent is on another level. wish i could do this
Just start and do it one step at a time.
@@danielh5127 yes but I don't have that type of machinery
Just buy a cheap RC Car its fun the problems will follows soon and then you'll need solutions start small with a File and Work your way Up. Maybe someday you buy some machinery
@@danielh5127 i always wanted an rc car but never got to it, i will maybe get something but now right now
Wish*
Man. I've been mesmerized by your videos for years. Imo, I would LOVE to see maybe a time-lapse timer along side the machining of all these parts. To someone who understands how much work that is, it's understood. But for most, including myself, I've never had the chance to mess around with machining, and I ALWAYS wonder how long it actually takes without the magic of editing. As always, keep up the amazing work brother!!
In my case it takes a little longer due to the size of my lathe, which is not rigid enough to take deep cuts on steel (its a champ in aluminium). The clutch bell for example took more or less 3 hours from start to finish.
You should put grooves in the clutch housing and put some grooves on the clutches it’ll help with grip an anti-slip
i think he shoulda made the dogs a little bigger so they had more mass and therefore more inertia
If you put grooves then you create too much heat and cook the clutch. Also makes it grab too much and wear too fast. Needs to be a smooth but sudden action. I've messed around with a lot of RC clutches and CVT clutches in the past and learnt the hard way
maybe try to make it conical, larger surface area and self centering. better for resonance to.
while you are at it, the chassis is flexing like crazy due to the length and torque..
@@michel5148 add bracing? Or use a different material for chassis?
Possibly use a different show material like in a car they make something like that I pretty sure for Traxxas slipper clutches ik different clutch but still same principle
This is the Johnny I subscribed to all those years ago, more projects like this please rather than all those unboxing videos of other peoples engines. You’ve got the skills to make your own engine! How about a V12!?
I like the way he says “making a clutch” like it’s as easy a peeling a banana. Amazing skills sir. Hats off to you.
Man, I'm very addicted with cars and ur creations are amazing!
Nice work as always. Making shoes might be a little time consuming maybe for my 2 cents worth friction material in the bell and cross hatching on the shoes but I’m sure you have a plan already..
Keep up the great work
That is a neat idea too.
YES! This is on the right track! Stunning my brother thanks for your hard work!❤
Hey Johnny! Please consider loosening those springs as it helps the shoes make better contact with the clutch and ultimately lessening the slip :)
IT IS A GREAT JOB MAN, SONBGRANDIODOS ENGINES YOU HAVE BUT THE ONE I LIKED THE MOST IS THE ROTARY ENGINE OF DOR ROTORS THAT AS CREAD
watch out for the weight of the flywheel, it will reduce your throttle response.
metal on metal will always slip, get some break pad material and it will do even better
Thanks Johnny. Nice lathe work. 👍🏻
another version of the clutch bell could be with ventilation in mind. a few holes or spaces in the front a fins on the outside could improve your clutch system a lot. give it a try :D
Thats a nice looking clutch. It really looks like some highly engineered part that is gonna last.
those are just standard 8th scale clutch shoes. nothing special.
@@MyKonaRC ok then but i really like the way it looks.
Lil V8 sounds great with that muffler. Love the bass rumble at idle.
Even a full size cars clutch would have slipped in the same conditions. I think you're right where you need to be.
Wow increadible works.....i hope you will continue with adding low gear and 4x4 for rock crawling making the first proper ICE rock crawling RC.
When I saw you revving it without the bell on my anxiety rose through the roof. Did that once with a bigger engine and clutch and the shoes went flying. Thankfully nor me or my friend were injured but imagine if that hit anyones face! Good vid as always. Also please use aluminum/metal discs on this car and actual rubber tires.
Always exciting to see progress on this beast of a model car!
Nice job Johnny.. now you need to build one for the Enjomore 78cc! Dennis Dempsey is currently working on one for his, but I don't think he has access to the machine tools that you have.😉 *EDIT:* Judging from the way the response is when you were testing, you may need to drop your 1st gear ratio considerably to make use of what little torque these have at high rpm's.. or stronger clutch springs to compensate.😄👍
stronger clutch springs is the last thing you need to put on one of these engines. They only rev to about 12-13k RPM as it is. You want that clutch engaging nice and low so you have a decent chance of getting the powerband while the clutch is engaged.
@@TestECull yeah, so looser clutch springs? The only problem with going too loose is that at idle you have the risk of the clutch rubbing all the time, a stiffer spring will allow for a higher rpm to be loaded up at. Lower rate springs should make the contact come earlier in the rpm
nice construction, the springs are a bit strorg for the alu shoes, you can also try to reverse the shoes so they grip instead of slipping. like the brakes in old drum brakes self powered. good luck.
Nice work once again. I have been drawing up a miniature Lenco with billet case and hardened planetary gears. Reverse is tricky.
Johnny, if you make a ring (temporary) to slip under the clutch shoes and hold them open (to a slightly bigger diameter than inside the bell) you can take a lick off the shoes to get the radius the same.
This is meditating to watch. Also meditating to be the one building it too I’m sure. Thanks for the footage, look forward to seeing the progress.
Thanks for watching and commenting! Send a message on TeleG via handle✋I gat something for you...
Add a little bit of weight to the clutch shoes or lower the spring tension a few grams if you're able to. And with 6 clutch shoes you could try putting 3 softer springs with 3 that you have. Might make it creep at idle but will have a smooth engagement
Hell yeah! Heavier shoes, lighter springs will help.
You could design a clutch with a lockout feature? You have the skills and tools to do it. Simple as adding some sprung latches that grab teeth on the bell. Centrifugal force adding to the locking force✌️✌️✌️also add some cooling fins or holes and try carbon Composit mixed with aluminium shoes
Great stuff!
Agree those little shoes are not cut tutti. You’ll be able to curve match your own shoes with like only four. Great job. 👍
The clutch arms should have a brake pad type material on the ends. Or clutch material. Metal on metal will always end up slipping
Awesome project 🎉 you are the best ! Looking forward to see this beast riding on the road
you could do a bullet-proof setup for a "clutch" with materials you already have^^
simply use another differential, where your motor/drivetrain connects to the output shafts and a normal r/c brake connects to the input shaft.. easy.
when the brake is open, all the torque from the motor will spin the brake disc.
when closing the brake, the diff will distribute the rpms to the drivetrain.. you just have to control the brake force with a servo (for what it is already made for).
the brakepads replace the clutch material and can be bought rather cheap.
I will not be surprised if this man build his own supercar
Oh you just KNOW everyone is ACHING to see this thing run!
Suggestion: use a cross tube to connect the two flexible exhaust pipes. You will make more low and mid range power, without sacrificing any top end power. Cheers!
I wonder if adding knurling to the shoes and the inside of the bell would aid in grab?
Have u ever done miniature diesel engine ?
Nice work man. Thinking the custom shoes is the right idea. Maybe with adjustable weight? Seems like they definitely need to be of steel so they’re heavier.
With this talent and eqipment you could try to make something small like a 1cc diesel engine on your own.
Maybe loosen up the springs a bit on the clutch shoes, so they "bite" harder? Or make some adjustment system with setscrews that can be placed in different holes to stiffen or loosen the clutch shoe springs.
Could work with weight aswell, holes where you can screw in or remove setscrews and those setscrews weight a bit which will make the shoes bite harder.
The springs are already stretched a bit. The new clutch shoes are going to be made larger and will be obviously heavier, which I hope will help.
@@johnnyq90 Making them larger could give the opposite effect if youre not careful, since a larger surface area might mean less "bite" into the clutch bell. Bigger surface area means more friction, but also means more pressure is required to get a physical grip into the material.
Line the clutch bell with cork, it can be changed when worn down. May give you grip and save the shoes.
i still cant believe how much this model V8 sounds like a full size V8
I'm only upset that I didn't wake up an hour ago to catch this when it came out.
Amazing how it sound like a full size V8. That music:)
You do some incredible work!!!!
Lovely design and build work sir! My only suggestion is that you epoxy on some suitable fiction material to those church fingers. That’ll solve the slipping issue.
when I seen the clutch shoes i immediately thought "why doesn't he have some kinda materiel on them for grip" and started to think about what you could use for a clutch materiel one thought is maybe trying some very high grit sandpaper like 1000 grit or higher getting into higher grits i think the overall thickness of the paper would be great for the tight tolerances you have to play with inside the clutch bell
You can line the clutch bell with thin cork sheet glued in place. It was this way on all my 3.5cc
methanol/nitro clutches from the factory. These screamers made up to 1hp, and it's harder wearing
than you think.
Wondering when we will se this beauty in action.
This is what I call A SKILL 👍🔥
Todos tus videos son impresionantes. Magnifico poder ver todo el proceso y la gran creatividad para hacer funcionar todo perfectamente.
Adding some friction material should help a lot on the shoes or on the bell itself. The bell might be less work.
I'm not sure this was suggested yet, but what about using a clutch liner similar what we use for nitro rc helicopters clutches? The come in strips and are cheap and work very well.
Amazing machining skills
Cant wait to see what you do with the new v12
maybe experiment with lighter clutch shoe springs and clutch shoe materials.
definitely on the right track!
This is just GREAT! Thanks for sharing the video!
Thanks for watching and commenting! Send a message on TeleG via handle✋I gat something for you...
The stiffer the clutch spring the softer the launch.
Комментарий в поддержку канала и ролика, а также труда мастера!!!!!
I always wanted one of these mini engines but the prices for them are quite high
I love how he made it 4wheel drive like a Awdi or Lambo
Incredible job, really amazing! Could you make a video showing all the tools you use to get your stuff done? Thanks!
Seems like you might be reaching the limits of a centrifugal clutch. Might you be better to fabricate a pressure plate/friction plate set up and either control it yourself manually, or with mixing in your transmitter so it engages when you hit say 5% throttle? Or something similar. Love your work dude.
Even go karts and mopeds have centrifugal clutch's.
Hi johnny, have you ever thought about a classic clutch like on real cars instead of a inertia driven one, or maybe a torque converter ? it would be maybe more controllable and allow a better control over the car
You should put your rotary engine into an rc vehicle! That'd be pretty awesome.
Why can't you be my neighbor, mine are boring and only make normal stock engine noises, not even chainsaw rc cars around here let alone one of your many amazing machines like this beast, I can't wait to see the finish!
That thing sound f****ng mint. 👌🏻
Nice work brother
You'll need to find the peak power band of the engine and tune the clutch weights to grab in that moment
Use discs for added surface and weights inside slopes like in a cvt that pushes them on the rotor
Excellent job JohnnyQ90!!! I love watching how You self-diagnose the problem and work to build the new parts all yourself,using your own machined parts!!! : >)
This is going to be epic. Just the sound is freakin awesome, I bet it's nothing like hearing and feeling the power in person. Well done sir, you make this stuff look easy and I have no clue where to start if I attempted this lol. But you make me want to do this to my nitro rc car hahah
4 fixes... use heaver shoes made from steel... slightly lighter springs... I smaller inner diameter for the clutch bell... OR turn the shoes backwards.
We need a mud truck build bro!!!
You might need to lighten the springs on the clutch shoes. Did you calc how much spring force you need??
That's awesome 👍 possibly make the shoes out of steel?
wouldn't lighter springs be an easier fix?
Maybe you can add some inner liner to the clutch bell this would increase the grip inside the clutch bell and make it slip less or not at all, kind off like the nitro rc helicopter do for their clutch system, check one of those, the liner material I'm talking about is sold individually to apply to any clutch bell or you could source similar material if you find what it's made off
I saw you had slipping issues with the clutch (although it is a lot better) I think I have a solution. If you line the inner part of the clutch bell with friction pad. The only thing I don't know is if it will wear the shoes down. You would have to see but if it works it would take a hole lot to slip.
Thanks for watching and commenting! Send a message via handle✋I gat something for you...
Agora sim ficou bem forte 💪
Some friction material on clutch weighs where they make contact with the bell would probably be a good solution. Aluminium on steel is a poor solution which will quickly gall.
The clutch shoes are in the wrong position, as the clutch bell is spinning, the shoes loses grip. If you turn the shoes so they face the other direction, they can build up more friction against the clutch bell. So that the system is similar to a drum break. You know what i mean :D? Nice Video tho, keep u the great work :D
Hydraulic Torque Converter is what you need to be spending your time on.
I want to hear it with a 8 into 1 collector it would be great.
If toy soldiers rise up, They'll invade Johnny's workshop.
Maannnn you a god damn artist 🤘🏼
Love your videos Johnny... I'm no expert but do you think a fibre/metal clutch interface would provide more grip as opposed to the metal/metal your using now? More like how a conventional clutch is setup in a regular car...
8:30 Are the tires spinning in the wrong direction? Great vid as always! I love to see the worksmanship and dedication you put into your videos!
The motor is at the front of the car.
Fab channel.
Johnny Q, have you ever mini-dyno'd your engines?
He made one look through his vids
Maybe you can use bicycle brake pads (from hydraulic brakes) as clutch material.
You should make hook spots on the clutch arms to get a typ of lock up that isnt immediate
Please make a video, when you finish mechanism, put car body on it and show us how this car is driving 🤩
do you think it would be possible to make an oil pan that the cv axles go through to lower the motor and then put the diff and driveshaft beside it
Now that's a clutch.
For a video idea you should make a fluid coupler it's very possible for you to make
Epic as usual!
Looking good bruh
Nice video! 👍
if you want better grip on clutch shoes, add a little squeeze of FERODO grip ;)
I think you could just make the clutch bigger in diameter, transfered torque = diameter³, because transfered torque is affected by centrifugal forse on clutch shoes, diameter of clutch bell (leverage) and amount of clutch shoes. All that would increse with diameter, so if you added 2 clutch shoes (1,33 times bigger diameter) it should transfer 2,37 times more torque.
You should put the material they use for brake pad make a liner inside the housing if you get some that is skinny it should be flexible enough to fit
That way your cam arms would have something to grip on