Thank you for this tip. I may be using it soon, on the other side. But after installing the caliper & pads I could not build up break pressure. Went through way too much break fluid (16oz ) to bleed it. Found the rear break line sprung a leak. Very fortunate it happened during this repair.
You cleaned it up very nicely. What grit was the sandpaper? Absolutely, saving ~85% is worth the time and effort and the satisfaction of doing it yourself tops it off. The insertion tool made it lot easier, so it's good that you kept it. Saved a trip to rent it again and it may have other uses. Without it, a 2x4 cut square (so the overhang leverage is gone) or at least centered and a hammer with a properly sized socket or slug could have accomplished the same thing, but the insertion was better in any case. Great job, Joe! A bit of a PITA job with a learning curve, but it should last to the truck's end of life or when you sell it. Always great and helpful. 👍👍 Thanks. I rented a 3/8" Drive 20-200 In/Lbs Torque Wrench a couple years ago for rebuilding a single cylinder tractor mower small engine and decided to keep it. I have other small engine devices it may come in handy for. I think it was ~$63 at AutoZone.
Thank you. Not sure of the grit, it was a warn belt from a sander. Was not coarse, used it because I was able to roll it to fit in the cylinder. If you have a small wire wheel that will fit in a drill that may be a lot easier. For the outside I used a heavy wire wheel on a grinder and a smaller wire wheel powered with a drill. I did chip heavy flakes off first. So much corrosion here in NY. I have another repair/video in the making. When I installed the caliper with the new pads I could not build up brake pressure. Come to fine out the back brake line sprung a leak.
@@JOEZEP54 Sorry to hear about the leak mishap. Maybe the sandpaper removed too much metal? I hope not. I think you said you have a Dremel Tool. They make wire wheels about a 5/8" diameter with very fine wires in a selection of stainless steel (I think) and brass (2 different ones, not a mix). That might have been great for the cylinder sides and the pistons. They also make a cone shape which would have been great for the bottom of the cylinder. I hope you can salvage it. Good luck!
@@JOEZEP54 Then that's good news in a way: Your work is not the issue. The bad is more to troubleshoot and fix. Good luck! I know you'll figure it out. While you're there, check out both rear brake assemblies. All 4 are likely the same age.
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Good old 2X4 the second best tool in the shop
Yeper LOL
I bend the square cut seal into the shape of an E clip then set it in and let go.
Thank you for this tip. I may be using it soon, on the other side. But after installing the caliper & pads I could not build up break pressure. Went through way too much break fluid (16oz ) to bleed it. Found the rear break line sprung a leak. Very fortunate it happened during this repair.
Yes those rings were part of the boot
Took me a moment to figure that out. 🤔
enjoyed it alot joe great job 👍
Thank you.
Stay well, Joe Z
You cleaned it up very nicely. What grit was the sandpaper? Absolutely, saving ~85% is worth the time and effort and the satisfaction of doing it yourself tops it off. The insertion tool made it lot easier, so it's good that you kept it. Saved a trip to rent it again and it may have other uses. Without it, a 2x4 cut square (so the overhang leverage is gone) or at least centered and a hammer with a properly sized socket or slug could have accomplished the same thing, but the insertion was better in any case. Great job, Joe! A bit of a PITA job with a learning curve, but it should last to the truck's end of life or when you sell it. Always great and helpful. 👍👍 Thanks. I rented a 3/8" Drive 20-200 In/Lbs Torque Wrench a couple years ago for rebuilding a single cylinder tractor mower small engine and decided to keep it. I have other small engine devices it may come in handy for. I think it was ~$63 at AutoZone.
Thank you. Not sure of the grit, it was a warn belt from a sander. Was not coarse, used it because I was able to roll it to fit in the cylinder. If you have a small wire wheel that will fit in a drill that may be a lot easier. For the outside I used a heavy wire wheel on a grinder and a smaller wire wheel powered with a drill. I did chip heavy flakes off first. So much corrosion here in NY. I have another repair/video in the making. When I installed the caliper with the new pads I could not build up brake pressure. Come to fine out the back brake line sprung a leak.
@@JOEZEP54 Sorry to hear about the leak mishap. Maybe the sandpaper removed too much metal? I hope not. I think you said you have a Dremel Tool. They make wire wheels about a 5/8" diameter with very fine wires in a selection of stainless steel (I think) and brass (2 different ones, not a mix). That might have been great for the cylinder sides and the pistons. They also make a cone shape which would have been great for the bottom of the cylinder. I hope you can salvage it. Good luck!
The leak is not in this caliper on the front wheel but the rear brake line.@@100vg
@@JOEZEP54 Then that's good news in a way: Your work is not the issue. The bad is more to troubleshoot and fix. Good luck! I know you'll figure it out. While you're there, check out both rear brake assemblies. All 4 are likely the same age.
Good tip!