I recommend using a Mann & Hummel ProVent OEM diesel engine crankcase ventilation coalescing oily aerosol separator. The ProVent 100 or the 200 units are suitable. The 100 is smaller and is the best size for the N47 and is easier to fit. The ProVent can be connected to return separated oil from the crankcase ventilation gasses, back to the crankcase. The unit can also be drained manually. A crankcase pressure regulation valve is incorporated in the ProVent housing. The ProVent is able to reliably remove practically all oily aerosols from the crankcase ventilation gasses. However, there is a coalescing filter element inside the ProVent that needs to be replaced occasionally, depending on flow volume and operating conditions. A filter element will last at lease 1 year used on a car. ProVent crankcase ventilation separators are designed and used on commercial and industrial diesel engines, OEM.
Can you post par t number from HDS ? plethora of reducers. thank you for your awesome vids. 17 328D wagon w 115G miles. No lights, no codes but the can is for preventive measures.
i found the hps 1" to 5/8 90 degree part, SOLD OUT, even on Amazon. HPS 5/8" - 1", Silicone Straight Reducer Coupler Hose, High Temp 4-ply Reinforced, 16mm - 25mm, this is my plan B. find a 90 for 5\8 hose. should be good.
@@MrBiggssr I see the HPS elbow available on eBay (you can search PN HTSER90-062-100). Just be careful getting another brand elbow that's in metric. I tried one of those and it was too big to fit snugly around the port from the engine.
I was just replacing the intake manifold gasket and during that the PCV plastic hose shattered! Ended up fixing it with 3/4" rubber coolant hose for now.. I'm planning on doing the catch can.
If you want to "go back to stock" you can order part 13717823517 and the cut the corrugated tubing at the length you need to for the rubber coupler and heating element.
i have a 2015 328d with 106,xxx on the clock, been a very reliable vehicle, but constantly pops a check engine light relating to either the scr sensor or the rear oxygen sensor, always seems to be towards the end of the oil interval that this happens, typically goes away quickly but i was wondering if this could be due to the wrong oil being used? i read that the car requires a low ash oil to prevent the exhaust filtration system from burning up. Just wondering your thoughts. possible they are just getting old and need to be replaced but seems like a symptom caused by something.
Are you not using an LL04 oil? At that mileage the sensors could be bad. It'd be best to check with ISTA to understand the conditions that trigger the code though.
@@FaRKle0079 I trust that the dealership checks the requirements of oil for the car before changing it? But I know I’m probably wrong for assuming they do anything right at the stealership.
This Mishimoto can is not available. Is there another one brand that you recommend? Anything particular to look out for in terms of catch can filter etc ? Also on this 328d do you have any issue with oil filter housing gaskets ?
I still see the can I used on their website: www.mishimoto.com/universal-high-flow-catch-can-kit.html Any of the higher quality cans should work fine. I'd just be careful of a very fine filter if you live in frequently freezing temperatures and park outside. One guy had his bronze filter freeze up and create a blockage. I'm not aware of any OFHG issues on the N47, but VCG might leak around 110-120k mi.
@@FaRKle0079 Thanks for getting back. Can you suggest a good one without breaking the bank. I am kind of a newbie and got this 328d for power and putting in the efforts to make it nice for the next 7-8 years. The previous owners mentioned that there might be few drops of oil coming out from the engine rail and drip behind the driver's side wheel through the weeping hole. on the engine rail/channel and hence my first thought was OFH gasket.
Can you please do an EGR Delete Tutorial? Would definitely help on reducing carbon buildup in the intake and on the valves. I mean you’ve only eliminated half of the problem by installing an oil catch can lol 😂
It's easier to have a tuner program EGR to stay closed than to delete it outright. EGR is actually beneficial for helping the engine get up to operating temp from a cold start too. I won't be deleting mine as I have to get smog checked every other year.
Interesting! What tuning setups do you recommend? Also are there specific tunes that automatically close the valve once operating temp is achieved? ...So you don’t have to physically open an close the EGR every time through an app or something.
@@brentevans4430 I highly recommend the KermaTDI tune. Those guys have really taken the time to understand how BMW designed the system and intended it to operate. Other tuners will modify one thing here or there to achieve a specific target, without considering the effects on the rest of the system. I've gone through three different tunes/devices over my ownership period (not including the stock tune).
@@FaRKle0079 I finally got my Certified Preowned 2017 328d as of yesterday. It seems that FCP Euro and other sites don't recommend any fuel filters for my vehicle. It should be the same as your filter correct? Just trying to do some maintenance.
The vehicle is at 47,000 miles and just at the end of its warranty period, and I'm not sure of what has been serviced up to this point... so I'm doing a ton of basic maintenance.
Great video - is there any sort of detectable difference in the performance/condition of the car since you've installed it? I ask because I am in the process of trying to sell an M7 oil catch can I bought for a MINI Cooper I traded to get the 328d Touring! I'll have to look closer to see if it could be made to work...
Feel-wise there's no difference after adding a catch can. When I've disconnected my charge air hose/pipe from the intercooler though I notice there's less oil. Of course all the oil that the can collects (even if it's not a huge amount) means that much less oil going back into the intake system! I'm sure the M7 can, can work with the N47 given the right size fittings.
such a straight forward & great video! I am thinking of doing this mod on my 520d N47, mainly preventing oil from blow by & EGR carbon sludge mix clogging throttle & manifold. Do you think it will help?
I think it'll help to do what you want, preventing oil from mixing with recycled exhaust gas. To keep the intake manifold even cleaner, I'd see if you can find a tune that closes off the EGR valve more too.
@@FaRKle0079 I also heard the condensation on bronze piece of Mishinoto catch can may freeze up in winter and clog the system. I am trying to find one that doesn't do that. Anyway, keep up your good work! Loved your video!
@@미스터쿠쿠-e1x The catch can I'm using (the high flow version) doesn't use a bronze filter, but more of a plastic/foam type mesh. I think it has larger orifices than the bronze one. I'd shoot Mishimoto an email and ask them about that failure mode too!
@@FaRKle0079 will do! thanks a lot :D btw do you have any opinion about coalescing air filter?There is a product call "Provent 200" which is a coalescing filter OCC but I am building a blowby filter system from scratch. Would coalescing filter causes air flow restriction and cause engine's seals damage?
When ambient temps are below freezing, water vapor will condense to liquid and ice will form that can block the crankcase ventilation plumbing, causing excessively high crankcase pressure. The heaters prevent ice forming in the tubing. The heating elements do not heat up the crankcase blow by gasses.
Thank you for the awesome job you are doing with these BMW videos! I'm running a tune with a 27.5PSI boost on my 320d. I can't even imagine a 32PSI boost on a stock turbo. How do they not blow up instantly? I notice that my engine bay smells of exhaust while running. Is that normal or could something be leaking? I don't have any issues with power or check codes (scanned with ISTA).
High boost, the beauty of diesels and compression ignition! It's pretty normal to have a bit of smell in the engine bay. One area I'd check for leaks is where the CCV pipe connects to the intake boot that feeds into the turbo. BMW has a pretty poor seal there and I had a lot of buildup around that connection.
@@FaRKle0079 @FaRKle0079 I have checked the CCV pipe and it doesn't have deposits. I wonder why it should smell of anything at all. Isn't it a completely sealed system on the exhaust side? Another thing I don't understand is why there's a slotted connector to the intake path in the grill. (7:55). This is not sealed and seems to breathe air around this region. Is the smell because of this open region?
What’s up Andrew! How would you incorporate your oil catch can setup with aFe’s Momentum GT Cold Air Intake System? aFe’s system incorporates the stock crankcase breather hose into their system, but that’s completely deleted with your catch can setup. Any recommendations? I already have your setup on my 17’ 328d and I’m not necessarily looking for performance gains from aFe’s system, but to make the turbo spool-up more audible! 😂
It looks like you may be able to use a bit of pipe or joiner to make a union coupler for the HPS elbow to the aFe boot. HPS sells aluminum joiners, and the 90deg silicone reducer elbows have different sizes. For the 5/8" ones, they can go up to 1.5". You can see their offerings below: -Elbows: hpsperformanceproducts.com/pages/silicone-90-degree-elbow-reducer -Joiners: hpsperformanceproducts.com/pages/hps-aluminum-joiner-bead-roll-connector-tubing-tube
@@FaRKle0079 Thanks! Hopefully the inlet on the aFe boot and the HPS elbow I used from your system are the same inner diameter to make things easier. If that’s the case the Aluminum joiners seem to be the easiest option. I’ll contact aFe to see what the dimensions are for that inlet and go from there. I’m just trying to make everything tie together and not look like crap. As always thanks for the help!
@@brentevans4430 Nevermind, I'm being silly. The install with the aFe intake is the same as with the stock one. The HPS elbow goes onto the heating element module, just like how I did it, and the heating element module goes into the aFe turbo inlet boot and is secured by worm drive clamp.
@@FaRKle0079 you’re right! I totally forgot you separated the heating element from the stock breather hose. So yeah I’d just clamp the heating element onto the aFe inlet and then attach the 90 degree HPS elbow from your system to the top of the heating element. Went back and watched your video and noticed I was really overthinking this. Haha
It captures blow by (oily exhaust air) and filters out the oil/contamination before it goes back into your intake. So it makes the intake air cleaner and prevents fouling.
The engine in your car is the N47N. I cant find a proper replacement hose because of that lower heating element. Basically its going to cost over 250$ now for a replacement. I think I am going to do add the catch can. BMW should put a real hose on the car instead of the piece of crap hose that is thin as a straw.
Check out my forum post here on how to buy the Euro version of the hose and then adapting it to the lower heating element much more affordably! f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?p=24177240#post24177240
i hope and pray youre not changing your oil at 10k intervals. Even bmw revised that and said it was one of the main contributors to the timing chain failure that was so prevalent in these engines when they first came out.
The original OCI that caused issues was 15k. It was reduced to 10k, which has been fine since. I typically did 7-8k OCIs, and then went to 10k after doing oil analysis every change showing that the oil was still protecting everything and wasn't used up.
I'm running a JR Stage 3 Tune on my 328d. I think you are right I peak about 30ish. How come you haven't done the EGR delete yet? If you have questions about it DM me on instagram. @ryan.f31bmw
CA requires smog check every other year, and I don't really see why I need to remove the EGR HW if its use can be programmed to when I want it or don't (the KermaTDI tune I have can do this). That's why I haven't felt the need to delete it.
I recommend using a Mann & Hummel ProVent OEM diesel engine crankcase ventilation coalescing oily aerosol separator. The ProVent 100 or the 200 units are suitable. The 100 is smaller and is the best size for the N47 and is easier to fit. The ProVent can be connected to return separated oil from the crankcase ventilation gasses, back to the crankcase. The unit can also be drained manually. A crankcase pressure regulation valve is incorporated in the ProVent housing.
The ProVent is able to reliably remove practically all oily aerosols from the crankcase ventilation gasses. However, there is a coalescing filter element inside the ProVent that needs to be replaced occasionally, depending on flow volume and operating conditions. A filter element will last at lease 1 year used on a car.
ProVent crankcase ventilation separators are designed and used on commercial and industrial diesel engines, OEM.
insanely good video with a very informative intro and step by step process. hard to find good videos on the N47 engine, thank you for this!
Can you post par
t number from HDS ? plethora of reducers. thank you for your awesome vids. 17 328D wagon w 115G miles. No lights, no codes but the can is for preventive measures.
i found the hps 1" to 5/8 90 degree part, SOLD OUT, even on Amazon. HPS 5/8" - 1", Silicone Straight Reducer Coupler Hose, High Temp 4-ply Reinforced, 16mm - 25mm, this is my plan B. find a 90 for 5\8 hose. should be good.
@@MrBiggssr I see the HPS elbow available on eBay (you can search PN HTSER90-062-100).
Just be careful getting another brand elbow that's in metric. I tried one of those and it was too big to fit snugly around the port from the engine.
Hi, can I use universal oil catch can??? I have bmw with the n47 engine the same like in your video
I was just replacing the intake manifold gasket and during that the PCV plastic hose shattered!
Ended up fixing it with 3/4" rubber coolant hose for now.. I'm planning on doing the catch can.
If you want to "go back to stock" you can order part 13717823517 and the cut the corrugated tubing at the length you need to for the rubber coupler and heating element.
i have a 2015 328d with 106,xxx on the clock, been a very reliable vehicle, but constantly pops a check engine light relating to either the scr sensor or the rear oxygen sensor, always seems to be towards the end of the oil interval that this happens, typically goes away quickly but i was wondering if this could be due to the wrong oil being used? i read that the car requires a low ash oil to prevent the exhaust filtration system from burning up. Just wondering your thoughts. possible they are just getting old and need to be replaced but seems like a symptom caused by something.
Are you not using an LL04 oil?
At that mileage the sensors could be bad. It'd be best to check with ISTA to understand the conditions that trigger the code though.
@@FaRKle0079 I trust that the dealership checks the requirements of oil for the car before changing it? But I know I’m probably wrong for assuming they do anything right at the stealership.
@@theprodistini2590 You should have the correct oil if the dealer changed it.
This Mishimoto can is not available. Is there another one brand that you recommend? Anything particular to look out for in terms of catch can filter etc ? Also on this 328d do you have any issue with oil filter housing gaskets ?
I still see the can I used on their website: www.mishimoto.com/universal-high-flow-catch-can-kit.html
Any of the higher quality cans should work fine. I'd just be careful of a very fine filter if you live in frequently freezing temperatures and park outside. One guy had his bronze filter freeze up and create a blockage.
I'm not aware of any OFHG issues on the N47, but VCG might leak around 110-120k mi.
@@FaRKle0079 Thanks for getting back. Can you suggest a good one without breaking the bank. I am kind of a newbie and got this 328d for power and putting in the efforts to make it nice for the next 7-8 years. The previous owners mentioned that there might be few drops of oil coming out from the engine rail and drip behind the driver's side wheel through the weeping hole. on the engine rail/channel and hence my first thought was OFH gasket.
Can you please do an EGR Delete Tutorial? Would definitely help on reducing carbon buildup in the intake and on the valves. I mean you’ve only eliminated half of the problem by installing an oil catch can lol 😂
It's easier to have a tuner program EGR to stay closed than to delete it outright. EGR is actually beneficial for helping the engine get up to operating temp from a cold start too.
I won't be deleting mine as I have to get smog checked every other year.
Interesting! What tuning setups do you recommend? Also are there specific tunes that automatically close the valve once operating temp is achieved? ...So you don’t have to physically open an close the EGR every time through an app or something.
@@brentevans4430 I highly recommend the KermaTDI tune. Those guys have really taken the time to understand how BMW designed the system and intended it to operate. Other tuners will modify one thing here or there to achieve a specific target, without considering the effects on the rest of the system. I've gone through three different tunes/devices over my ownership period (not including the stock tune).
@@FaRKle0079 I finally got my Certified Preowned 2017 328d as of yesterday. It seems that FCP Euro and other sites don't recommend any fuel filters for my vehicle. It should be the same as your filter correct? Just trying to do some maintenance.
The vehicle is at 47,000 miles and just at the end of its warranty period, and I'm not sure of what has been serviced up to this point... so I'm doing a ton of basic maintenance.
Great video - is there any sort of detectable difference in the performance/condition of the car since you've installed it? I ask because I am in the process of trying to sell an M7 oil catch can I bought for a MINI Cooper I traded to get the 328d Touring! I'll have to look closer to see if it could be made to work...
Feel-wise there's no difference after adding a catch can. When I've disconnected my charge air hose/pipe from the intercooler though I notice there's less oil. Of course all the oil that the can collects (even if it's not a huge amount) means that much less oil going back into the intake system!
I'm sure the M7 can, can work with the N47 given the right size fittings.
such a straight forward & great video! I am thinking of doing this mod on my 520d N47, mainly preventing oil from blow by & EGR carbon sludge mix clogging throttle & manifold. Do you think it will help?
I think it'll help to do what you want, preventing oil from mixing with recycled exhaust gas. To keep the intake manifold even cleaner, I'd see if you can find a tune that closes off the EGR valve more too.
@@FaRKle0079 i wish to close off the EGR too but its illegal where I live; annual provincial car inspection.
@@FaRKle0079 I also heard the condensation on bronze piece of Mishinoto catch can may freeze up in winter and clog the system. I am trying to find one that doesn't do that. Anyway, keep up your good work! Loved your video!
@@미스터쿠쿠-e1x The catch can I'm using (the high flow version) doesn't use a bronze filter, but more of a plastic/foam type mesh. I think it has larger orifices than the bronze one. I'd shoot Mishimoto an email and ask them about that failure mode too!
@@FaRKle0079 will do! thanks a lot :D btw do you have any opinion about coalescing air filter?There is a product call "Provent 200" which is a coalescing filter OCC but I am building a blowby filter system from scratch. Would coalescing filter causes air flow restriction and cause engine's seals damage?
What is the part number for corrugated tub that you replaced ? I brock it as well
It's 13717823517. The corrugated section will be longer than you need for the 328d, so just cut to size.
Why would you wana heat the blow by gasses 🤔
In cold climates the blow by can condense inside the tube and sludge up the intake tract instead of getting pumped through to the intake manifold.
When ambient temps are below freezing, water vapor will condense to liquid and ice will form that can block the crankcase ventilation plumbing, causing excessively high crankcase pressure. The heaters prevent ice forming in the tubing. The heating elements do not heat up the crankcase blow by gasses.
Thank you for the awesome job you are doing with these BMW videos!
I'm running a tune with a 27.5PSI boost on my 320d. I can't even imagine a 32PSI boost on a stock turbo. How do they not blow up instantly?
I notice that my engine bay smells of exhaust while running. Is that normal or could something be leaking? I don't have any issues with power or check codes (scanned with ISTA).
High boost, the beauty of diesels and compression ignition!
It's pretty normal to have a bit of smell in the engine bay. One area I'd check for leaks is where the CCV pipe connects to the intake boot that feeds into the turbo. BMW has a pretty poor seal there and I had a lot of buildup around that connection.
@@FaRKle0079 @FaRKle0079 I have checked the CCV pipe and it doesn't have deposits. I wonder why it should smell of anything at all. Isn't it a completely sealed system on the exhaust side?
Another thing I don't understand is why there's a slotted connector to the intake path in the grill. (7:55). This is not sealed and seems to breathe air around this region. Is the smell because of this open region?
@@BimmerDrives That slot connects the air box to the intake channel. The filter is in the airbox, so it doesn't matter much if air seeps in that way.
@@FaRKle0079 Yes, but I'm wondering if some of the CCV ventilation leaks back out from here at idle, when not much air is being pulled in.
What happened to original CCV valve ?
The only original part I replaced was the hose connecting the CCV output to the turbo inlet pipe.
How often do you have to clean out the catch can?
Quite infrequently. Can easily go two oil changes with my particular can.
What’s up Andrew! How would you incorporate your oil catch can setup with aFe’s Momentum GT Cold Air Intake System? aFe’s system incorporates the stock crankcase breather hose into their system, but that’s completely deleted with your catch can setup. Any recommendations? I already have your setup on my 17’ 328d and I’m not necessarily looking for performance gains from aFe’s system, but to make the turbo spool-up more audible! 😂
It looks like you may be able to use a bit of pipe or joiner to make a union coupler for the HPS elbow to the aFe boot. HPS sells aluminum joiners, and the 90deg silicone reducer elbows have different sizes. For the 5/8" ones, they can go up to 1.5".
You can see their offerings below:
-Elbows: hpsperformanceproducts.com/pages/silicone-90-degree-elbow-reducer
-Joiners: hpsperformanceproducts.com/pages/hps-aluminum-joiner-bead-roll-connector-tubing-tube
@@FaRKle0079 Thanks! Hopefully the inlet on the aFe boot and the HPS elbow I used from your system are the same inner diameter to make things easier. If that’s the case the Aluminum joiners seem to be the easiest option. I’ll contact aFe to see what the dimensions are for that inlet and go from there. I’m just trying to make everything tie together and not look like crap. As always thanks for the help!
@@brentevans4430 Nevermind, I'm being silly. The install with the aFe intake is the same as with the stock one. The HPS elbow goes onto the heating element module, just like how I did it, and the heating element module goes into the aFe turbo inlet boot and is secured by worm drive clamp.
@@FaRKle0079 you’re right! I totally forgot you separated the heating element from the stock breather hose. So yeah I’d just clamp the heating element onto the aFe inlet and then attach the 90 degree HPS elbow from your system to the top of the heating element. Went back and watched your video and noticed I was really overthinking this. Haha
What benefict does do an oil catch can,
Sry for my english.
It captures blow by (oily exhaust air) and filters out the oil/contamination before it goes back into your intake. So it makes the intake air cleaner and prevents fouling.
The engine in your car is the N47N. I cant find a proper replacement hose because of that lower heating element. Basically its going to cost over 250$ now for a replacement. I think I am going to do add the catch can. BMW should put a real hose on the car instead of the piece of crap hose that is thin as a straw.
Check out my forum post here on how to buy the Euro version of the hose and then adapting it to the lower heating element much more affordably!
f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?p=24177240#post24177240
i hope and pray youre not changing your oil at 10k intervals. Even bmw revised that and said it was one of the main contributors to the timing chain failure that was so prevalent in these engines when they first came out.
The original OCI that caused issues was 15k. It was reduced to 10k, which has been fine since. I typically did 7-8k OCIs, and then went to 10k after doing oil analysis every change showing that the oil was still protecting everything and wasn't used up.
@@FaRKle0079 good to know.
I'm running a JR Stage 3 Tune on my 328d. I think you are right I peak about 30ish.
How come you haven't done the EGR delete yet? If you have questions about it DM me on instagram. @ryan.f31bmw
CA requires smog check every other year, and I don't really see why I need to remove the EGR HW if its use can be programmed to when I want it or don't (the KermaTDI tune I have can do this). That's why I haven't felt the need to delete it.
@@FaRKle0079 ahh Cali gotcha.
@@ryanreich7635 Yup... I failed smog once because I didn't remove my catch can. It's dumb that a mod meant to make things cleaner makes you fail smog.