I would say that you are doing a Top Notch Job Daniel. What we all were trying to do is get the decks at 45° So we can get the cylinders at 90° to the deck. Even .002 to .004 is seconds of a degree. So much closer than the factory is. When you look at the variances of the pan rail, main registers, china wall and decks. Most likely machine in different machining stations and each station and or opperation has it's own tolerances. I would say you are absolutely spot on. Remember, you are on the business end of things. Thats the part that makes the Horsepower. Nice work. 👍👍💯🇺🇸 Thanks for sharing.
I watch your videos at work when I'm not busy with a customer. I work at AutoZone and was a automotive mechanic for almost 35+ years. I've worked in a automotive machine shop. Your videos are very educational and I share them with my boss and coworkers so maybe they have a clue what it's all about. Thanks for the great videos keep up the good work
@@lollipop84858 If you guys at Auto Zone ever turn a hubless rotor, did anyone qualify the machine? As an ACDelco rep. for service, I rode with a warehouse salesman from that area. Almost everyone was replacing rotors, but with a cup installed, spring and centering cone, cut a rotor. Loosen the nut, don’t turn the shaft, rotate the rotor 180 degrees. If you check it by making a new cut, just a kiss, or install a magnetic base & dial indicator, did show lateral runout? Yes! No one checks this. In the Ammco Brake Lathe manual, it pointed out this test on a regular basis as it said; “Every 100 rotors or so, test the lathe for lateral runout with a clean rotor to ensure lateral runout was not cut in by the operator due to an unqualified machine. In 1975, this was no longer in the manual. I brought it up, we cut rotors and had 0.012” - 0.080” on a rotor before bolting on. Everyone is cleaning the hub / bearing but Kent-Moore had this set of conical washers. Using these, lug nuts on a fresh cut rotor, a dial indicator would show a max of 0.002” thousand of an inch. If check when cut, off when installed & tight, hub was bent. It all snowballs into one pile. To fix it, you have to know which pile the problem came in. Acura, Lexus, Nissan, Cadillac and many others show 0.000” for lateral runout specs. GM, Ford, Fiat-Chrysler and others are 0.002”. Many I asked said they would cut rotors, and 2k miles later had a comeback with pulsating pedal complaint. This is why as after a few hot/cold cycles, the rotor warped more.
If I was close I know exactly who would do all my machine work! I went to school for machine tooling and did a little prototype , tool and die , and job shop machining for 12 years. Miss it but had to take over the family farm. But I love watching someone who knows what they are doing! Keep up the good work and the videos!
I truly appreciate how detailed you are with your work. I remember me and my Dad and buddies, just slapping different engines and parts together just to get a little more power. Not really caring or knowing the fine line details. God Bless Everyone and stay safe.
I'm glad I'm right up the road in G'ville from you guys...the attention to detail and accuracy is just outstanding brother! Keep pumping out this awesome content, I learn something every time I watch!
@@MichaelScudder72 yep, been a Powell Machine sub'r for over a year now....Daniel is ON POINT!!.....he validates my t'shirts every time.....i continue to be impressed by him, every video.....HE helped my good buddy with his Ford FE roller lufter problem, and my shop is usin the Gatermans as well now....Daniel is a dying breed PLEASE, some 20 something get involved, we're gonna need you...i'm almost 60, my boss is 72......youngbloods NEED to become involved!!!......jus sayin....
Daniel, your worst video is still educational to the majority of us. As an automotive enthusiast I find it fascinating how far off some of the factory stuff is. Thanks for sharing.
Having a CNM would be a game changer for your operations. Have you ever considered making a dovetail fixture to slide your dial indicator when sweeping the machined surfaces, just a thought from one machinist to another?
Don't really think there was any doubt it would be square, not with the attention to detail you guys have. Still good to confirm what you already know.
I like seeing that Driven shirt and banner up in the shop 👀. For some reason I hadn't noticed that before, but unless I've missed it (which is certainly possible) do you have some thoughts for a video on oil for your builds and break in oil? I've seen what you use during assembly and what not and I feel like everyone likes Drivens BR oil but I don't recall hearing your thoughts on oil specifically too often. That is, at least in the way I'm thinking, I know obviously you've covered and explained plenty of oil dependent systems. I remember during the flat tappet transition I saw some videos where you mentioned oil viscosity playing a role in eating up distributor gears on cams, but I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on types, additives, viscosity, or whatever you'd be willing to share. I also understand if that's something you're not as interested in since its a bit of a can of worms and you can just recommend a variety of products based on clearances and application and the customer can choose whatever within reason or figure it out themselves. Love your videos and I like that you guys do periodic checks of your equipment to try and verify and validate your system.
Silly question. If everything is relative to the crank. What is an align hone for the crank referenced against once you have pulled the crank? Naive guess is use a surface that referred to the crank before the crank was removed but that feels kind of like a chicken and egg problem. Off to find one of your videos on align honing.
So how much would it cost if someone brought you an iron block ls2 (whatever they're called) that was previously built with all forged internals and i gave you the bare block and said to make sure all if this was done. You set it up and found that all was done and in great shape. What would that verification cost? And if it needed to be squared up, what would that cost? General cost is fine, i wont hold it to you
The internal combustion engine is a remarkable machine. how much can the tolerances be off before a catastrophic event happens.? There is a RUclipsr I like to watch. it is I Do Cars. It is a must watch for anybody who likes engines. You will be surprised.
Get on machine probing with a Renishaw probe. This way corrections can be made immediately. With a CMM you have to return the block to the CNC for rework after checking if the block needs rework.
This machine is manual, you can't use a probe, my big cnc mill when I get it set up for block machining we will do the blocks in it, but regardless, we valided our fixture, so we don't need to do it again.
To me a novice at best, without the fixture its like rubbing a flat part on sand paper on glass or a surface stone. It will get darn flat but not square .... doese that make since ?
Question: I'd like to break into the industry, I went from IT/Software Dev to becoming addicted to classic vehicle restoration specifically the BMW e46. I quit my job and have been working as a mechanic to make sure I had the necessary skills, now its time to get into the machine side but my financial reality is I can't maintain my bills for less than 30/hr. Am I a lost cause or is there a place for me? Thanks.
@@powellmachineinc Unless people are starting the trade out of high school or they have savings to support themselves I don't see how it's sustainable. I've watched other videos of yours talking about the difficulty finding new workers. With rents and basic expenses being what they are I just don't see how this is sustainable. Or you would have to work two jobs. A potential solution might be guaranteed bumps in pay over specific periods of time if someone proves themselves? I don't know it's a difficult time and inflation continues to raise costs of everything.
@@powellmachineinc sorry for all the questions, could you resleeve a STD bore aluminum LS2 block with the slightly longer LA Sleeves sleeves and still keep it 4.000" to 4.005" bore or would going to 4.125" be easiest to do?
Folks told me the same thing when I purchased my first cnc.....(I have 4 now), folks also said that when I bought my first camshaft grinder, (I have 3 of those) people been telling me "you can't " my whole life, but I just keep proving them wrong!😉
So the main bearing parting line alignment bears no relevance to the accuracy of the motor? Please tell me (and all the others watching) what is your background that allows you to say that.
@bobhudson6659 it is, the caps sit in their registers, as long as the main line bore is straight, parallel to the cam, bores and decks square to that reference, a parting line is just a parting line. Unless you have 2 deck plates torqued, main caps torqued to introduce all the stress into the block and have probing holes drilled into each cap you are not really measuring anything. The goal is to make it as square as practical and everything moves once you bolt things to it. A relaxed block is not how the engine operates. If you installed torque plates to both banks the pan rail sweep would likely change. Cross bolted mains change all of these dimensions. There is a point when all of that becomes an impractical rabbit hole.
I have been an industrial machinist for 30 years. I really love learning how engine machine work is done.
You are a true craftsman Sir!
Ty, we really appreciate that 🙏
As we all should know. The universal rule to building anything : Plumb , square and level. 👍💯
@@JamesWeaver-n4t You forgot rigidity.
@@JonBanquer I didn't forget. I was talking basics. Besides, sometimes that's not a desirable thing.
@@JamesWeaver-n4t Rigidity is as basic as it gets. Rigidity is always desirable for a good setup.
I would say that you are doing a Top Notch Job Daniel.
What we all were trying to do is get the decks at 45° So we can get the cylinders at 90° to the deck.
Even .002 to .004 is seconds of a degree.
So much closer than the factory is.
When you look at the variances of the pan rail, main registers, china wall and decks.
Most likely machine in different machining stations and each station and or opperation has it's own tolerances.
I would say you are absolutely spot on.
Remember, you are on the business end of things.
Thats the part that makes the Horsepower.
Nice work. 👍👍💯🇺🇸
Thanks for sharing.
Absolutely 💯
I watch your videos at work when I'm not busy with a customer. I work at AutoZone and was a automotive mechanic for almost 35+ years. I've worked in a automotive machine shop. Your videos are very educational and I share them with my boss and coworkers so maybe they have a clue what it's all about. Thanks for the great videos keep up the good work
Ty! We really appreciate that 🙏
Dude, no one cares. Your coworkers and boss are pretending to be interested
@@lollipop84858 If you guys at Auto Zone ever turn a hubless rotor, did anyone qualify the machine? As an ACDelco rep. for service, I rode with a warehouse salesman from that area. Almost everyone was replacing rotors, but with a cup installed, spring and centering cone, cut a rotor. Loosen the nut, don’t turn the shaft, rotate the rotor 180 degrees. If you check it by making a new cut, just a kiss, or install a magnetic base & dial indicator, did show lateral runout? Yes! No one checks this. In the Ammco Brake Lathe manual, it pointed out this test on a regular basis as it said; “Every 100 rotors or so, test the lathe for lateral runout with a clean rotor to ensure lateral runout was not cut in by the operator due to an unqualified machine. In 1975, this was no longer in the manual. I brought it up, we cut rotors and had 0.012” - 0.080” on a rotor before bolting on. Everyone is cleaning the hub / bearing but Kent-Moore had this set of conical washers. Using these, lug nuts on a fresh cut rotor, a dial indicator would show a max of 0.002” thousand of an inch. If check when cut, off when installed & tight, hub was bent. It all snowballs into one pile. To fix it, you have to know which pile the problem came in. Acura, Lexus, Nissan, Cadillac and many others show 0.000” for lateral runout specs. GM, Ford, Fiat-Chrysler and others are 0.002”. Many I asked said they would cut rotors, and 2k miles later had a comeback with pulsating pedal complaint. This is why as after a few hot/cold cycles, the rotor warped more.
If I was close I know exactly who would do all my machine work! I went to school for machine tooling and did a little prototype , tool and die , and job shop machining for 12 years. Miss it but had to take over the family farm. But I love watching someone who knows what they are doing! Keep up the good work and the videos!
Ty, we really appreciate that 🙏
I truly appreciate how detailed you are with your work. I remember me and my Dad and buddies, just slapping different engines and parts together just to get a little more power. Not really caring or knowing the fine line details.
God Bless Everyone and stay safe.
Thank you very much!
I'm glad I'm right up the road in G'ville from you guys...the attention to detail and accuracy is just outstanding brother! Keep pumping out this awesome content, I learn something every time I watch!
Much appreciated
Somebody that gives a damn is worth every penny.
@@MichaelScudder72 yep, been a Powell Machine sub'r for over a year now....Daniel is ON POINT!!.....he validates my t'shirts every time.....i continue to be impressed by him, every video.....HE helped my good buddy with his Ford FE roller lufter problem, and my shop is usin the Gatermans as well now....Daniel is a dying breed PLEASE, some 20 something get involved, we're gonna need you...i'm almost 60, my boss is 72......youngbloods NEED to become involved!!!......jus sayin....
It's great the accuracy of the set up,counts so much to the end product ,thanks for sharing, all the best to you and your loved ones
We really appreciate that 🙏
Daniel, your worst video is still educational to the majority of us. As an automotive enthusiast I find it fascinating how far off some of the factory stuff is. Thanks for sharing.
Vwey welcome!
thats a pretty slick way of checking across without having an actual Y axis to move.
Ty
another really interesting video. i love this kind of detailed explanation. thanks
Glad you liked it!
Great point, ya have to dbl check your process's. Never take anything for granted...
Facts
I do find all of this very interesting. Thanks for sharing. 👍👍🇺🇸
Glad you enjoyed it
Awesome content! Thank you.
My pleasure!
I always found it interesting doing lifter bores with a bhj jig how much blocks are mis machined at the factory
Definitely
Cool video brother. Very interesting!!!
Ty,
Thanks for the video.
You are welcome!
Excellent video 😊
Thank you very much!
Having a CNM would be a game changer for your operations. Have you ever considered making a dovetail fixture to slide your dial indicator when sweeping the machined surfaces, just a thought from one machinist to another?
Definitely
Don't really think there was any doubt it would be square, not with the attention to detail you guys have. Still good to confirm what you already know.
Definitely, we always trying to do better
I would be interested in seeing how true the cap mating surfaces are, since a lot of shops fixture off them.
Noted
another great video
Thanks again!
Very nice, verification video!
Ty
I like seeing that Driven shirt and banner up in the shop 👀. For some reason I hadn't noticed that before, but unless I've missed it (which is certainly possible) do you have some thoughts for a video on oil for your builds and break in oil? I've seen what you use during assembly and what not and I feel like everyone likes Drivens BR oil but I don't recall hearing your thoughts on oil specifically too often. That is, at least in the way I'm thinking, I know obviously you've covered and explained plenty of oil dependent systems. I remember during the flat tappet transition I saw some videos where you mentioned oil viscosity playing a role in eating up distributor gears on cams, but I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on types, additives, viscosity, or whatever you'd be willing to share.
I also understand if that's something you're not as interested in since its a bit of a can of worms and you can just recommend a variety of products based on clearances and application and the customer can choose whatever within reason or figure it out themselves.
Love your videos and I like that you guys do periodic checks of your equipment to try and verify and validate your system.
We will talk about that on a video
Thank you for your knowledge and videos USA 🇺🇸 TRUMP ❤ MAGA ❤
Our pleasure 🙏
you should make a video sometime on what your exercise workout routine is.
On my personal channel I'm going to to do some fitness stuff eventually
Silly question. If everything is relative to the crank. What is an align hone for the crank referenced against once you have pulled the crank? Naive guess is use a surface that referred to the crank before the crank was removed but that feels kind of like a chicken and egg problem. Off to find one of your videos on align honing.
Think through the question you asked, the answer is in front of you
So how much would it cost if someone brought you an iron block ls2 (whatever they're called) that was previously built with all forged internals and i gave you the bare block and said to make sure all if this was done. You set it up and found that all was done and in great shape. What would that verification cost?
And if it needed to be squared up, what would that cost? General cost is fine, i wont hold it to you
prob 3-500 to check everything, if it all needed redoing, maybe 700-1000
Mr. Powell. Those sleeves look pretty thick. Can you tell us maximum bore for something like that in a NA build? Love your work and channel
4.155 I believe
Good work
Ty
The internal combustion engine is a remarkable machine. how much can the tolerances be off before a catastrophic event happens.? There is a RUclipsr I like to watch. it is I Do Cars. It is a must watch for anybody who likes engines. You will be surprised.
Will check it out
I wonder if there are OEM manufacturing specs for the dimensions examined in this video?
Probably
hi from dons enginens
Hey Don!
Get on machine probing with a Renishaw probe. This way corrections can be made immediately. With a CMM you have to return the block to the CNC for rework after checking if the block needs rework.
This machine is manual, you can't use a probe, my big cnc mill when I get it set up for block machining we will do the blocks in it, but regardless, we valided our fixture, so we don't need to do it again.
@@powellmachineinc Most of the industry has moved to on machine probing because it's invaluable.
@@powellmachineinc Almost all CNC machining job shops have now moved to on machine probing because its such a time saver!
To me a novice at best, without the fixture its like rubbing a flat part on sand paper on glass or a surface stone. It will get darn flat but not square .... doese that make since ?
💯
Question: I'd like to break into the industry, I went from IT/Software Dev to becoming addicted to classic vehicle restoration specifically the BMW e46. I quit my job and have been working as a mechanic to make sure I had the necessary skills, now its time to get into the machine side but my financial reality is I can't maintain my bills for less than 30/hr. Am I a lost cause or is there a place for me? Thanks.
Getting a job with no real experience Is gonna 15-20 a hr prob
@@powellmachineinc Unless people are starting the trade out of high school or they have savings to support themselves I don't see how it's sustainable. I've watched other videos of yours talking about the difficulty finding new workers. With rents and basic expenses being what they are I just don't see how this is sustainable. Or you would have to work two jobs. A potential solution might be guaranteed bumps in pay over specific periods of time if someone proves themselves? I don't know it's a difficult time and inflation continues to raise costs of everything.
Squareness and accuracy doesn’t happen by accident 👍
Facts
Is that the badass 5.3 you resleeved?
Correct
@@powellmachineinc looks nice as hell
@@powellmachineinc sorry for all the questions, could you resleeve a STD bore aluminum LS2 block with the slightly longer LA Sleeves sleeves and still keep it 4.000" to 4.005" bore or would going to 4.125" be easiest to do?
Buy a structured light light system.
Idk what that is
It goes to show how the oil pan rails are not to be your guide.
Definitely
I wouldnt mention a cmm. You couldnt afford a cmm
Folks told me the same thing when I purchased my first cnc.....(I have 4 now), folks also said that when I bought my first camshaft grinder, (I have 3 of those) people been telling me "you can't " my whole life, but I just keep proving them wrong!😉
Too bad not everyone has your work ethic. There are a lot of bad machine shops around.
We try hard
The main parting line is irrelevant.
So the main bearing parting line alignment bears no relevance to the accuracy of the motor? Please tell me (and all the others watching) what is your background that allows you to say that.
@bobhudson6659 it is, the caps sit in their registers, as long as the main line bore is straight, parallel to the cam, bores and decks square to that reference, a parting line is just a parting line. Unless you have 2 deck plates torqued, main caps torqued to introduce all the stress into the block and have probing holes drilled into each cap you are not really measuring anything. The goal is to make it as square as practical and everything moves once you bolt things to it. A relaxed block is not how the engine operates. If you installed torque plates to both banks the pan rail sweep would likely change. Cross bolted mains change all of these dimensions. There is a point when all of that becomes an impractical rabbit hole.
@@optimumperformance6998 I am glad you fully equipped machine shop was able to verify all of this.
It's a reference like everything else