That came out better than I thought it was going to, when you first started. The backside of that patch is bare steel, and I worry it might rust, again. For those areas, I either prime before installation, or come back with some Eastwood Internal Frame Coating, and spray it down with that little flexible hose nozzle they provide. It's like POR15 in a spray can and will keep the inside of both your air boxes from corroding any further. Just a thought.
There is a plan to it's okay to use por-15 on the backside of the patch and then also come in with a product called cavity wax that many of the shops are now using to prevent rust and welded areas as well as those areas that were done with panel bonding adhesive. I might release a small video on that this week after I get feeling better I've been pretty sick
Really appreciate you showing this. I’m addressing similar issues on my 68 Mustang. Bonded patches is an interesting idea. I’m assuming this is less than ideal for minor door corner repair?
We have a plasma cutter, but that is outside of the scope of what many can afford. I LOVE our cutter, I just wanted to show that a repair can be affected with minimal tool investment.
I am thinking what would have worked well for filling those holes is to have coated the threads of the screws with panel bonding adhesive and made them permanent, then just grind off the head of the screws to make flush with the panel.
Panel bond adhesive would be great if a person could purchase a formulation that didn’t include gold dust and unicorn pee. Also in smaller quantities, the standard package has way too much product for a small repair such as this. Here in western Canada a tube of 3M panel bond adhesive will cost between $150 and $200. I’ll stick with welding in patches.
I think panel bonding adhesive is underused in hobby cars. There's a real tendency for people to sneer "don't do it if you're not going to do it right," but what they really mean by that is "do it the way I'd do it or don't do it at all." Fine, but not every part is available. Not every part of the car is that critical. Not every owner has the money to pay for fabricating custom sheetmetal for a non-structural part of the car that no one will ever see. For a lot of cars, that's the difference between continued life and the crusher, just for cost reasons. Finally, OEMs are using a lot of this stuff in original manufacturing and collision repair. If the OEMs are using it, why shouldn't we? It's just a tool, like everything else. Use it right and it's fine. Use it wrong and it's an issue. Or, as your HS shop teacher told you, a screwdriver isn't a chisel.
Cool! Couldn't you just grind the screw heads off rather than taking them out and filling them? Just curious, I've never done any of this kind of work. Also, another question. Can I panel bond my replacement floor pans in rather than welding since I don't weld 😂? Thanks for another awesome video.
It was a concern about heat where the panel bond and the screw were. And yes you can do floor pans with panel bonding glue you will just need a butt ton of clamps LOL
Ive done similar repairs on non-structural panels. The repairs on my truck are great 6 years later. If all the rust is removed and clean/treated metal sealed with epoxy (not por15) and not use screws, these repairs outlast weld repairs as no matter how good you weld, or how much weld through primer you use panels will rust when welded if you can't access the rear of the weld. Ive worked in the aircraft industry, non ferrous metal bonds are superior in many applications
The only reason I used screws was because I could not clamp the panel. Screws are acceptable for these repairs, just need to find out if I should fill with panel bond or some other product.
Honestly Kevin I can guarantee you at save time over welding. Plus it also is much less likely to have water leaks around it with the panel bonding glue
@@kevinfelton4886 22 gauge welding is annoying as *^*$^% for me but I'd rather struggle with burn through than panel bond. But I bet that OEM metal is 18-19 gauge not 22 like he used. Much easier to Mig.
@@AutoRestoMod thanks for the video. Although I prefer welding I like to see these processes because there is great opportunity to avoid warpage with these alternatives. Mig brazing is another one.
I hear you, imagine how it feels going over that video for five times before you send it out. It is one of the reasons I will usually put music over the work. And that Dremel tool sounds like a dental tool when you speed it up.
No half assing here. I feel that sometimes we tend to spend money needlessly. Were this a visable repair it would have been handled differently. As it is, this will never be seen, the panel bond has rust inhibitor, and is far less likely to present leaks.
3M doesn't even know who I am. I bought the product. Welding is not just as cheap and it has some of the same problems of rust out plus voids in the well that you just can't see that will let water in. Panel bonding adhesive at least fill those voids effectively
Nice fix! Certainly tighter than welding and stronger too.
That came out better than I thought it was going to, when you first started. The backside of that patch is bare steel, and I worry it might rust, again. For those areas, I either prime before installation, or come back with some Eastwood Internal Frame Coating, and spray it down with that little flexible hose nozzle they provide. It's like POR15 in a spray can and will keep the inside of both your air boxes from corroding any further. Just a thought.
There is a plan to it's okay to use por-15 on the backside of the patch and then also come in with a product called cavity wax that many of the shops are now using to prevent rust and welded areas as well as those areas that were done with panel bonding adhesive. I might release a small video on that this week after I get feeling better I've been pretty sick
Thank you for showing the process.
You're welcome!
Really appreciate you showing this. I’m addressing similar issues on my 68 Mustang. Bonded patches is an interesting idea. I’m assuming this is less than ideal for minor door corner repair?
I use my plasma cutter on all that stuff. One of the best tools I add to my shop.
We have a plasma cutter, but that is outside of the scope of what many can afford. I LOVE our cutter, I just wanted to show that a repair can be affected with minimal tool investment.
@AutoRestoMod That's true. Mine is Amazon I paid a couple hundred and it works great. I need to try that panel bond .
I am thinking what would have worked well for filling those holes is to have coated the threads of the screws with panel bonding adhesive and made them permanent, then just grind off the head of the screws to make flush with the panel.
I considered that off camera but was concerned about heat weakening the glue where the were ground.
Panel bond adhesive would be great if a person could purchase a formulation that didn’t include gold dust and unicorn pee. Also in smaller quantities, the standard package has way too much product for a small repair such as this. Here in western Canada a tube of 3M panel bond adhesive will cost between $150 and $200. I’ll stick with welding in patches.
I think panel bonding adhesive is underused in hobby cars. There's a real tendency for people to sneer "don't do it if you're not going to do it right," but what they really mean by that is "do it the way I'd do it or don't do it at all." Fine, but not every part is available. Not every part of the car is that critical. Not every owner has the money to pay for fabricating custom sheetmetal for a non-structural part of the car that no one will ever see. For a lot of cars, that's the difference between continued life and the crusher, just for cost reasons. Finally, OEMs are using a lot of this stuff in original manufacturing and collision repair. If the OEMs are using it, why shouldn't we? It's just a tool, like everything else. Use it right and it's fine. Use it wrong and it's an issue. Or, as your HS shop teacher told you, a screwdriver isn't a chisel.
Cool! Couldn't you just grind the screw heads off rather than taking them out and filling them? Just curious, I've never done any of this kind of work. Also, another question. Can I panel bond my replacement floor pans in rather than welding since I don't weld 😂? Thanks for another awesome video.
You certainly can panel bond floors in, there are a number of good videos on it.
It was a concern about heat where the panel bond and the screw were. And yes you can do floor pans with panel bonding glue you will just need a butt ton of clamps LOL
@ Yes…personally I would grind the heads of the screws off since they’re already glued in😛
Ive done similar repairs on non-structural panels. The repairs on my truck are great 6 years later. If all the rust is removed and clean/treated metal sealed with epoxy (not por15) and not use screws, these repairs outlast weld repairs as no matter how good you weld, or how much weld through primer you use panels will rust when welded if you can't access the rear of the weld. Ive worked in the aircraft industry, non ferrous metal bonds are superior in many applications
The only reason I used screws was because I could not clamp the panel. Screws are acceptable for these repairs, just need to find out if I should fill with panel bond or some other product.
Thus, my comment on a previous FB post about composting!
not sure if you saved any time over welding, and it cost you something in the tip and material
Honestly Kevin I can guarantee you at save time over welding. Plus it also is much less likely to have water leaks around it with the panel bonding glue
@@kevinfelton4886 22 gauge welding is annoying as *^*$^% for me but I'd rather struggle with burn through than panel bond. But I bet that OEM metal is 18-19 gauge not 22 like he used. Much easier to Mig.
@@AutoRestoMod thanks for the video. Although I prefer welding I like to see these processes because there is great opportunity to avoid warpage with these alternatives. Mig brazing is another one.
Same question? Why not put panel bond on the screws when installing and grind off the heads???
I was concerned with heat transfer into the glue causing the glue to disintegrate
@ That’s the answer I was expecting. Maybe just a dremel with a disc to the center only if it was an exposed flat panel?
The problem is that I can buy a mig welder from Harbor Freight for the cost of that adhesive and gun.
When you run your air saw I keep swatting at mosquitos.
I hear you, imagine how it feels going over that video for five times before you send it out. It is one of the reasons I will usually put music over the work. And that Dremel tool sounds like a dental tool when you speed it up.
Holy crap this guy has the real life popeye elbows. Crap looks painful
Real life bursitis. I'm lucky that my elbows don't pain me much.
Cannot be a true back yard mechanic unless you fill the hole with a cardboard patch.
Hahahahaha
It's just a Camero anyway.
Hahahahaha. But a very important Camaro to the owner.
Do it right don't half ass it
No half assing here. I feel that sometimes we tend to spend money needlessly. Were this a visable repair it would have been handled differently. As it is, this will never be seen, the panel bond has rust inhibitor, and is far less likely to present leaks.
Use a mask when grinding!🤦♂️
Dang panel bond must pay good$. Same work as welding uglier results
3M doesn't even know who I am. I bought the product. Welding is not just as cheap and it has some of the same problems of rust out plus voids in the well that you just can't see that will let water in. Panel bonding adhesive at least fill those voids effectively