I just repaired the one on my 1963 Massey Ferguson 35x (the original I'm fairly sure) and having opened it up I was amazed it had been working up to that point. However, after giving it a good clean up it now works fine. The contacts have eroded to about half their original thickness so may not last another 60 years.
Just normal solder on the solenoid cap. I want some better high temp stuff for soldering brushes on brush boxes. A spot welder would be nice if I had the money. I used to do this at Valeo and they went to using no lead solder. Was a pain to use. Solder dropping down the hole then having to strip it down again. :)
I don't know specifically what they are called but I like solenoids that are in like boot shaped housings. They look far easier to repair than these types.
Oh I`ve seen some like that on Rovers. Quite big and have 3 screws holding the cap on. When you take the cover off the contacts are easy to clean. Perhaps it`s that type you mean.
@@damianbutterworth2434 yea I like those ones because I can remove the coil with just a small ish arbor press. When they are pretty hard, I just use a pipe/tube for more leverage. And that is when the coil is burnt out or the wire at the bottom needs to be re soldered.
I`ll have to measure the ones I`ve got in the morning. I know the Diesel contacts were a lot thicker. I would go for 4mm min. There is enough room in the movement.
@@damianbutterworth2434 yea because I tried using a brake drum since it already had a big hole and one hole to the side, I just had to drill the other hole. I was able to open one up, but I tried a second one and the drum failed. I was using a 12 ton shop press as well it felt pretty sketchy
oh sorry I thought you meant the copper contact plates for the solenoid. Still 4 mm is OK I guess. I just used some old angle iron that was hanging about.
Why if bench test ford ranger starter, it not stay ingage if i keep small wire on pin. It uningage with start small wire on start point. It must only uningage only when i take of start thin wire, am i right or wrong? Rrrrrealy hope someone can help me. Thanks guys.
Does it keep trying to engage. Because if the holding coil is broken. The pull in coil will engage it and then cut out and let the holding coil take over but if the holding coil is broken it will disengage and try again.
If you take off the main lead from the solenoid to the motor and measure the resistance from the small power in spade connector you should get a reading down to earth and to the large motor post . If you get an open circuit when you measure to earth then it`s your holding coil which would cause it to click in and out.
@@damianbutterworth2434 you mean that the solinoid coil not getting power after a while (seconds) It ingage then even with start wire still connect bendix gear ungage.
@@damianbutterworth2434 aaaa okay got you. That i dont no. I take of starter small wire just after it disengage. I will try totay to still keep the starter wire on after it disengage to see if it engage again. Thanks for the advise. Will tell you later on if it engage again if hold starter wire on even if it disengage. 😉
I just repaired the one on my 1963 Massey Ferguson 35x (the original I'm fairly sure) and having opened it up I was amazed it had been working up to that point. However, after giving it a good clean up it now works fine. The contacts have eroded to about half their original thickness so may not last another 60 years.
Lovely job Sir.
I`m fixing a Subaru Impreza alternator at the minute. Should be uploaded at the weekend. Thanks for the comment. It cheers me up.
What type of solder are you using? silver solder for heat resistance?
Just normal solder on the solenoid cap. I want some better high temp stuff for soldering brushes on brush boxes. A spot welder would be nice if I had the money. I used to do this at Valeo and they went to using no lead solder. Was a pain to use. Solder dropping down the hole then having to strip it down again. :)
Nice bro 😊
I don't know specifically what they are called but I like solenoids that are in like boot shaped housings. They look far easier to repair than these types.
Are they Lucas ones with 2 screws in the cap. Much easier to repair.
Oh I`ve seen some like that on Rovers. Quite big and have 3 screws holding the cap on. When you take the cover off the contacts are easy to clean. Perhaps it`s that type you mean.
@@damianbutterworth2434 yea I like those ones because I can remove the coil with just a small ish arbor press. When they are pretty hard, I just use a pipe/tube for more leverage.
And that is when the coil is burnt out or the wire at the bottom needs to be re soldered.
how thick do you suggest the plate should be?
I`ll have to measure the ones I`ve got in the morning. I know the Diesel contacts were a lot thicker. I would go for 4mm min. There is enough room in the movement.
@@damianbutterworth2434 yea because I tried using a brake drum since it already had a big hole and one hole to the side, I just had to drill the other hole.
I was able to open one up, but I tried a second one and the drum failed.
I was using a 12 ton shop press as well it felt pretty sketchy
oh sorry I thought you meant the copper contact plates for the solenoid. Still 4 mm is OK I guess. I just used some old angle iron that was hanging about.
@@damianbutterworth2434 Yea I went over board and used 13mm steel that my dad brought, and I use a semi truck starter field coil housing to put it on.
@@ironwolf3699 did you get on alright?
Why if bench test ford ranger starter, it not stay ingage if i keep small wire on pin. It uningage with start small wire on start point. It must only uningage only when i take of start thin wire, am i right or wrong?
Rrrrrealy hope someone can help me. Thanks guys.
Could be the holding coil is open circuit.
Does it keep trying to engage. Because if the holding coil is broken. The pull in coil will engage it and then cut out and let the holding coil take over but if the holding coil is broken it will disengage and try again.
If you take off the main lead from the solenoid to the motor and measure the resistance from the small power in spade connector you should get a reading down to earth and to the large motor post . If you get an open circuit when you measure to earth then it`s your holding coil which would cause it to click in and out.
@@damianbutterworth2434 you mean that the solinoid coil not getting power after a while (seconds)
It ingage then even with start wire still connect bendix gear ungage.
@@damianbutterworth2434 aaaa okay got you. That i dont no. I take of starter small wire just after it disengage. I will try totay to still keep the starter wire on after it disengage to see if it engage again.
Thanks for the advise. Will tell you later on if it engage again if hold starter wire on even if it disengage. 😉