Honestly I am having problems adjusting to hydraulic disc brakes I'm on my first season with them and I know I'll get it but my hands are used to years of cantilever brakes dicomp 990 (standard STA ox PlatinumBMX) brakes v brakes(gt y2k) then cable actuated disks (framed Minnesota fat bike) and now hydraulics on my 2019 specialized stumpjumper comp alloy. Old guy problems but years of inferior brakes and strong hand equals trouble with modulation lol
@@gmbntech I am lol I'll get it ! I felt the same way with the mechanical disks for quite a while. Maybe I just miss the spring and sloppiness of the brake cable .
My bike came stock with SRAM Guide RSC brakes. While I like the way they perform, I’m now on my second pair of replacement lever assemblies due to sticking lever plungers. Going with Shimano next time.
@K H dude i work in a bike shop, when every some geezer brings in a set of avids we cry a little, had a pair of juicy ultimates in the stand today, actual bits of rubber seals came out when i bled them, theres a reason they dont make avid brakes anymore.
I had a Avid Code R for almost 5 years on my bike (still lying around somewhere) and it worked perfect. Saved my and other peoples lives a few times. I could always rely on them no matter how fast I was going. Though I had to learn to handle so much braking power in the beginning...(I flew over the handlebars a few times in the first 6 months) 😅
I just bought these brakes, it took 25 days to receive them. I am now looking forward to testing it in our dirt and rock trails. I have a weight of 225 pounds, I had Sram Level and personally I was not happy when I braked. I just think I was too heavy for braking. I then opted for Sram Guide Ultimate brakes.
You say it drives you mad when pads wear and you have to fiddle with bite point, it drives me insane to because on my guide rs, I have to take the wheel of the adjust the bite point and if I don’t keep on top of the bit point I’ll loop out doing manual going really fast because the lever hits my finger, and hit hurts like crazy when you can’t just run out of it and end up eating tarmac. Really good video though and your my favorite gmbn presenter, I love hearing you geek out about all the technical aspects of everything, keep it up! Probably my next brakes too!
Thanks! 🤙 Have you tried simply running the lever blade a little further out? If you are needing to pump the lever to keep on top of the bite point it sounds like you need to bleed the brake. 👍
GMBN Tech it hurts my fingers to put my lever out any more and it gives me hand fatigue. My brakes also have a perfect bleed on them, I just have to take the wheel out and pull the lever a few times to push the pads closer to the rotors but not enough to make the brakes rub though. I just have to mess with engagement by pulling the wheel out and pulling the lever weekly because the pads wear and make dead space in between the rotors. Sintered seems to have fixed this problem a little because I’ve had the brakes for a few months and have already worn through like 4 sets of pads (non sintered)
So I just finally switched over my SRAM Code brakes and drivetrain to Shimano XTR on a 2019 Turbo Levo. This is an absolutely huge difference in braking ability compared to SRAM Code and now you can shed speed faster and later into corners and with 1 finger with zero arm and hand fatigue. I am a big guy that goes fast on a heavy bike and after having both I can tell you for sure that all that modulation that people talk about is absolute rubbish. The Shimano difference is so wide and confidence inspiring I cannot believe people even compare the two in the same sentence. I also think that they have enough modulation for anyone. On SRAM I was looking to upgrade the discs from 200 to 220 but then just decided to switch Shimano XTR 9120 with 203 Ice tech and the power difference is significantly better. Then just the shifter, derailleur and rear cassette, everything but the crank, and I can tell you that Shimano blows away SRAM in all ways.
not having to use the dials to correct for pad wear seems to good to be true, but I hope that is true, with my Shimano M6000 I have to add fluid few times.
Actually for trail and dh brakes, sram has won every test I have read in mtb press for past few years...shimano only just brought.out trail 4 pots and that's spendy xtr, but their entry level xc deore 2 pots actually consistently do better than levels and even preferred over recent xt's as use old design without all the bite point issues
I had Guide R on my bike... I liked slx (m7000) from my previous bike. I'll upgrade the guide.. but which one i should use? Sram G2 RSC, Sram Code R, Shimano m7120 (SLX 4 piston with Metal pads)... i found all of these at same price here in Brazil...
Guide RE are just the old Code caliper and the first generation guide R lever...better to go with the new G2 or new Code brakes...the old calipers need the conical washers on both sides and are quite a pain to adjust...they alo have very little space between the pad and the disc.The new G2 have the swinglink and even though you don't get the banjo caliper hose nut on the RS model(only on the RSC) they are still about as powerful as the RE and feel a lot better.They are also a breeze to bleed with the new bleeding edge adaptor as opposed to the standard screw on both sides...After being a Shimano purist for years,i have to give it to the G2 as it is one of the best brakes out there,with great modulation and awesome lever feel reliability,on my daily,narrow tire bike.The modulation is especially important using these small street tyres,and they have a great way of delovering maximum power in a controlled manner.
More power, better modulation, better reliability, better lever feel... I was told the same thing in 2015 when I just bought my Sram Guide RSC, I have only been disappointed by Sram brakes (Elixir 3, Elixir 9, DB3 and of course Guide RSC). Just go with Shimano, bigger and better pads, easier to bleed, super reliable and maybe it's just personal but the lever feel on Shimano brakes is more ergonomic. And still using DOT fluid... But hey, good luck with these brakes Sram.
So are they going to be reliable and keep working in the sun? Can Bicycle Mechanics sleep at night! We have just back ordered a few hundred sets of Shimano brakes to upgrade up sram brakes coming on 2020 model year new brakes. We just got a tip from a few Bikeshops to fit the Sram brakes to Kids bike's.
I hope so, i noticed that the Gen 2 has a different internal piston shape compared to the original guides. Ordered a set to fit into my guide RE which stuck up.
will these new G2 levers work with the older guide calipers? My guide RSC lever is frozen yet again and want to replace with newer tech that hopefully works.
@@gmbntech really? I have 2017 guide rsc's...but swapped the hoses round...dont tell me I could have just flipped the lever...the bleed port would have been upside down...surely these have.one top and bottom then?
what do I think of these... well for cost of just 1 set of lever & caliper, I can get both front and rear Shimano mt520 4 piston brakes + rotors... so... no thanks.
As Doddy suggested if you are after a more gravity focused brake check the Code range out. The Code R is a great 4-piston alternative to the M520 and pricing is competitive.
@@gmbntech Hi, Code brakes are awesome and they perform fantastically and the fastest riders on the planet use them... BUT they are really expensive! code rsc's are more than twice the price of the shimano mt520 4 piston brakes, everytime sram come out with a new brake everyone is talking about them, and there are plenty of great reviews... yet shimano come out with affordable 4 piston brakes that perform similarly to many way higher priced options and can barely find a whisper from any big mountain biking publications... its almost as if sram spend huge amounts more money on marketing and advertising than other brake brands...
I know some people buy metalic and resin pads. Then they put one side resin and second side metalic pads on same brake. It will work in high temperature (metalic) but also in slow speed and low temperature (resin).Is this a good idea on any disc brakes (metalic disc)??
Hi, i have the G2RS and want to know the best way to bed them in? I've watched a sram tutorial and did laps up n down a hill to get more power. But still super spongy and can barely lock up the wheel. Thanks
I am in need of upgrading my older avid juicy 5's. Long over due. Considering the SRAM G2 RSC or the Magura MT5. Anyone have experience with either? I have a 2008 stump jumper and do not do down hill.
Um, there are a lot of comments saying how bad Avid brakes were. Those were the early disc/k brakes. The canti's were fantastic. That is why SRAM bought Avid.
So many different opinions... Where i live - most of the people started to avoid Shimano mainly because their leaking levers became a plague (and cracking/leaking pistons but to lesser degree). And mechanics do not suggest them for this reason - one even showed me a whole bin of levers waiting for repair kit... Most prefer Sram's feel as well so i see more Sram brakes everyday. Thinking of trying G2 myself...
What size riser bars are those? What rise size stem? Doddy can you please make a video about sizing for tall guys? I'm 6'5" and wondering if I need to raise my stack / bars
Hi...I'm still using some ,8 year old this year, Elixir crsc carbon lever brakes,with complete new internals about 15 months ago,Scintered Pads...and they're bloody wicked..even still...To me brake technology hasn't progressed so far as say Geometry and Suspension...Although my Extreme riding down Long hills is Rare...I do 50-70 Trail Miles each week....Never had a problem.." until i had to replace all the gubbins in the levers ofcourse"...Ha !
Geometry and suspension tech has been very noticeable over the past few years. Whilst these brake technology improvements maybe seem subtle, we think it's important to see a constant improvement when new models are released. All these details over the years have definitely added up to improve both safety and the riding experience out on the trails. 🤙
Have to say looks like.the bite point adjustment design flaw not fixed tho... if u have guides, bleed them with the adjuster ¾ way in (dir of arrow), not fully out. Then after back off. The sram pro mechs do this as the bite point is effectively the wrong way round. It pulls the pads Further away, not closer as you would want! Will allow u to firm up the lever feel, but still back off a little if got rub. Otherwise any adjustment of bite point means lever hits bar before pads grip!
But are they more grabby? I never liked the "spongy" feel of Sram brakes, they can be had quite cheaply compared to shimano though, and don't seem to have any issues with pistons cracking and bite point shifting, but the longish lever travel is what really kills the deal for me, I like to modulate with force applied, not with spongy levers.
You can adjust both the lever reach and the pad "Travel" or "Stroke" before rotor impact on these. It's worth remembering that any hydraulic brake needs zero air in the system and therefore needs a bleed if you find the lever becoming spongy.
@@gmbntech I'm not talking about dead stroke travel, I'm talking about the travel from the bite point to the wheel lockup, even though force required to lock the wheel is similar to shimano, the lever travel always was much more on Sram brakes, even when bled properly.
which in turn always results to a feeling "wow these have almost no braking power" when switching from Shimano or similar, until I focus to overcome my muscle memory and push the lever further to get used to them after a couple of minutes, but the bad feeling never disapears.
Currently most dual crown forks support this rotor size, but as this is so new we are not sure on ratings for single crown forks. We will look into it and hopefully have more information on this when the rotors are released.
I am running avid code 5 brakes and for me they're perfect. The rear one is in perfect condition idk how I found it. The front one is with juicy 7 lever but it is ok. The front one is from 2007 and the rear one is from 2009 and they're perfect for me
How do they compare in feeling with the old model and the shimano brakes? I feel like i need to brake for ever to stop even if i have the guide ultimate(or as some say "one of the most powerfull brakes on the market". One of the things i'm also interested is the reliability of the brakes. The old model is horrible in this category.
Alex Mocuta I have shimanos xt and sram guide ultimate and both bikes and the sram has way more modulation which is very helpful in some instances but the xt are more powerful and sensitive with not modulation. You have to learn how to brake with the xt specially in downhill...both are good but I prefer the sram a bit better..
Mtb brakes...another example of divided world we live in! If u want on/off feel and more straightforward go Shim or mag, if u want more modulated/controllable feel and (currently) more useable power, and are more precise in ur maint, go sram. I think.a lot of people carry old perceptions. Avids had inconsistency issues, now shimano does. Saint were the go to dh brake, now its codes (but also trail as light). Want lower price point 2 pots, get deores (also better than current xt's as old design without bite point issue!). Want light, powerful and different, magura. Want top build/looks, and back-up/spares, loosing out on weight and power to mag/sram get hope. Pays ur money...but u cant judge any current model by its grandfather, nor believe the current model is great based on past reliability...
Want to know your local bike shop employees better? Get SRAM and you'll be in there several times a year for warranty replacements. Want the best brakes there is? Get Hayes Dominion A4's.
How big can be the difference with top end brakes vs entry level budget mtb brakes (like shimano deore or similar) vs something in the middle? In a tangible way and in a confidence inspiring perception, I think it would be a great comparisson
Every bike I've owned and friends have owned with avid\sram have had issues with pistons, seals and just generally been a nightmare. Ever since i went Shimano I've not had a single issue.
A few thoughts from someone's that been doing this bike thing a while (30+ years). Sorry in advance for the long rant. I'm one of those "tried Avid and had a bad experience" people. Avid Elixir brakes were supplied with my Cannondale Scalpel 1 back in the day and they were AWFUL. Aside from the incessant squealing (which makes me NOT want to brake - personal thing) they just just kept on breaking. My mechanic at the time couldn't figure it out - swapped every part we could but they'd just break again. Everything from fastenings coming loose to hydraulic lines leaking to modulation getting spongy within a month. Basically they were the worst brakes I've ever owned. This was back in 2011. Changed to Shimano brakes and haven't looked back. I went with XTR so I know I got the best of the best, but I still have those brakes TODAY, in March 2019. Same levers, same calipers, same hoses. Everything 100% original from the original box, except pads obviously. Have bled them once or twice, but that's the ONLY maintenance I've done. Maintenance schedules probably say I should do more but they simply don't need to be touched. I'm the type of person that loves buying the latest thing but I'll never replace those brakes. Kinda like my XTR race pedals - bought them in 2011 and they're still perfect. My trail bike is SRAM end-to-end (except the brakes, which are also XTR) and I freakin' love the XX1 setup. In other words, I'm a big SRAM fan. And yeah SRAM might have their name on the G2 models but to me they're still associated with brakes that caused preventable crashes and endless frustration.
@Andrew Dodd Yep, and my comments are purely based on experience, too. Unfortunately, it doesn't take much to sway someone one way or the other, especially when the malfunction of a product causes you to crash at high speed. I agree that any product can fail but again, once you've had a taste of consistent failure it's difficult to get swayed back the other way. With XTR brakes specifically in this case, I've had the opposite experience - perfection since day 1. Logically, it would be silly to say all Avid products "suck" or something along those lines, and I was careful not to say that. By the same logic, they certainly DON'T suck - if they did, they wouldn't be on the bikes of riders at world cup level. But yeah, having also ridden a ton of products over the years I've also seen the good and the bad ... Panaracer Smoke or Biopace, anyone? ;-)
Ha yes when you have to adjust your levers EVERY 3 RIDES and this just drives me insanely mad + have some Hayes MX5 mechanical brakes and it has little to no modulation so these brakes are probably the ones I will buy just to not having to adjust the levers even when the pads are worn
They look great...flip flop idea is brill, assuming bleed port doesnt end up on the bottom of lever, but wasnt really getting if pads are interchangeable with old guides? Said same shape, but then hole in caliper smaller? Pads in guides only just fit through, so must be smaller pads if smaller hole in g2? Tho.anyone using oem pads is mad! Uberbike semi metallics or BBB performance organic both offer way better results. BBB po proven in german mtb mag test of only pads (diff pafs makes in same brake- not whole brake system with supplied oem pads, like all uk tests).
Kudos to sram for really improving their brakes over the years. I strated off with those elixir crs and they were the worst brake I have ever ever riden. Today though most of Srams brakes are on paar with all the other manufacturers
Exept that the other manufacturers talk about their problems and not just lay them on the side and produce another brake... 4 of my guide r brakes got seized up... no Sram for me...
I have had Shimano (M365) and SRAM (Level T) hydraulic brakes, as well as some Tektro mechanical ones. Personally I think hydraulic is the way to go, as for branding, I'm not convinced that it really makes a huge difference. They both make brakes that work effectively, the technology is pretty mature, just make sure that whatever you buy is rated for what you intend to do.
#askgmbntech i need to buy new brakes for my dirtjumper but i dont know wich ones are best for my ridingstyle because i ride alot of gravity jumps on my dirtjumper.
Actually the braking power is comparable with proper brake pads (when comparing apples to apples, ie servo wave shimano and servo equipped sram brakes), it's just there is more lever travel with sram which makes it feel less powerful. If they improved on that a bit in this generation, I might consider these, as Shimano is quite overpriced compared to sram on second hand market, and Sram doesn't have cracking piston or shifting bite point issues like shimano does.
@@piciu256 but me as a bike mechanic can sleep at night because I will know that my shimano brake will always work... and have the same modulation. And don't need to bleed them every year... aaaaand so on...
@@banoodel5121 well, I'm a Shimano guy for sure, cannot stand the Sram spongy feel, but apart from swelling brake lever pistons, there were not much issues with the previous generation guides, while Shimano still has known issues of wandering bite point (this I have trouble with personally) and dying seals+ breaking ceramic pistons, granted these issues can all be categorized as qc issues (except for the crappy seals) but so can the Sram Guide issues (apart from the swealing levers, that's just bad design), these brakes are sold on bikes in massive numbers, nothing is perfect, it just so happened that Shimano is liked more for the lever feel and is easier to service properly.
@@piciu256 well yeah then that means at least for me that Shimanos are the better brakes... I ride an XT 4 piston and have issius myself with an wandering bite point even when the brake is completly cold... but i hate the feel of a guide R where you can just pull the lever until it is at the handlebar... I mean what is this?!? It doens't even have nearly as much power as a cheap shimano deore brake if you ask me...
Banoodel shimano brakes are shit. I’ve been through four different XT brakes and three SLX’s in the last year. All suffering from the same problems (leaky pistons / wandering bite point) and they don’t work particularly well when they’re not playing up on the other hand my guide RSC’s are over three years old still work perfectly and have had two bleeds ever. Sram are so much better than shimano it’s hard not to laugh at idiots like you talking nonsense.
Sram should come up with something to replace the lower end Guid brakes (the Guire T, Guide R) because, for the price, they're pretty weak, compared to what other brands offer.
Fair point, but tbh I didnt know the thumb + meant that. O saw was promo, so hoped would be a give away...but doddy nabbed them! Dont blame him...there is a reason most ews and dh riders are now on sram... power with modulation, unlike the on/off feel of magura and shimano. However many like that style and thats fine. Each to their own. I think.u just get used to what u use first. Shimano have and still have lots bite issues on their recent xt and above brakes tho
@@rupedog Well I'm pretty lucky to have two bikes. One with Guide r's and one with XT M8000's and boy do I love sram. Although I had one stuck piston in my rear brake which I fixed and rebled, I can finally brake on Greece's loose trails. XT feel way too powerful now and trying not to lock the rear wheel even with sintered pads is impossible. Can't wait for sram's long-term plans.
I hear the new XTR brakes are better than the Saint's.... Ride both SRAM and SHIMANO on my bikes. Each one has good and bad. My first experience with Hydraulic was with HAYES loved them in 2002. But it's 2019 so maybe BREMBO needs to step into the game!
100% failure rate for me on Guide RS, RSC, Ultimate in Phoenix, Arizona USA. Also 100% failure on Sram Level TLM. Sram brakes overheat and completely loose modulation. Even after warranty repair, they fail again. As a rider in the desert hillsides, I'm better off biking with ice-cold water to cool off Sram brake handles rather than drinking it.
As a LBS mechanic in Phoenix AZ I can 100% verify that Guide RS brakes seize up in the heat. We keep extra rebuild and replacement kits in stock because of how many warranty swaps we do. Guide is a good enough brake in more temperate climates, they just can't handle the heat out here. Piston swelling isn't an issue for them on the east coast like it is here.
Typical brake problem phone call at the shop... Customer: Hey my brakes are seized up, IDK what happened. Me: Guides? Customer: Uh, yeah. Me: Bring it in, we'll replace them. No charge, it's a warranty issue. Every. Time.
Agree I love the modulation feel of rsc but yes my front lever slow returning back...... Heard its the piston(plastic) overheats and expands. Surely sram should have solution to this problem? Oh yeah buy a tool for 10 pounds to put new cylinder back in. Not good for price of brakes.
I love the look of these brakes. I’ve been looking for a really powerful brake for my bike for a long time. My brake levers always come loose as well, so I’m very interested in these.
Oh no another brake Sram? Everyone knows Shimano is the brand to go to for brakes. Using them for years even neglecting some of the maintenance the brakes perform admirably. Personally using Sram level TL, the brakes literally can't be use in hot weather as the brakes somehow got stuck slightly (in close position) enough to make the brake caliper pinch the disk brake and my wheel does not even spinning freely. Happens to both front and rear. Sold it and get Shimano deore xt brakes. No problem since then. What's not to love? Shimano all the way
These prices again are simply absurd when a entire system from zoom on aliexpress cost less than one caliper. If you were at the Taipei show this year then everybody has hydraulics and most are darn good. There is no way these prices are actually real anymore and their sales will reflect that. Its only people that dont know anything or dont actually ride or dont actually care how much anything cost would be purchasing these. This bizarre world of high end biking gets you a name nowadays and that's about it.
that's due to the rotors I think, the huge venting holes probably have somethign to do with it. I use Hope Floating rotors no issues with that, also slow wear, great performance,, not noisy, work great.
I had Guide RSC brakes on my old bike and Code RSC on the new one. Both are amazing, but the Codes will stop a car. I think all these Sram haters must have had the cheaper models cause the top end ones work fantastic.
Guide RSC, replaced under warranty 2 times, currently have them in storage as I won't risk it again. It's a well known issue to do with heat, you haven't looked if you aren't aware.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
What do you think of the new SRAM G2 brakes? Let us know👇
Honestly I am having problems adjusting to hydraulic disc brakes I'm on my first season with them and I know I'll get it but my hands are used to years of cantilever brakes dicomp 990 (standard STA ox PlatinumBMX) brakes v brakes(gt y2k) then cable actuated disks (framed Minnesota fat bike) and now hydraulics on my 2019 specialized stumpjumper comp alloy. Old guy problems but years of inferior brakes and strong hand equals trouble with modulation lol
@@mountainlessmtb9940 This shouldn't take take long to get used to, try using just one finger on the brake lever. 👍
Look nice, but I'm a Shimano man.
@@gmbntech I am lol I'll get it ! I felt the same way with the mechanical disks for quite a while. Maybe I just miss the spring and sloppiness of the brake cable .
Still uses dot fluid. Come on
My bike came stock with SRAM Guide RSC brakes. While I like the way they perform, I’m now on my second pair of replacement lever assemblies due to sticking lever plungers. Going with Shimano next time.
well that's bs, the only reason SRAM started making brakes under the sram name was because avid had such a bad reputation they had to change name
Avid rotors were awesome but calipers were bad, now SRAM calipers are awesome and rotors are bad lol
@@Mr.ZiggedWhenHeShouldaZagged it's the SRAM master cylinders/levers that suck.
@K H dude i work in a bike shop, when every some geezer brings in a set of avids we cry a little, had a pair of juicy ultimates in the stand today, actual bits of rubber seals came out when i bled them, theres a reason they dont make avid brakes anymore.
@K H avid were always a subsidiary of SRAM just like Rockshox is.
Ben Featherstone
Don’t waste your time bleeding that trash.
Sell em some $60 Shimano brakes and call it done.
That’s our shop’s go to solution.
I had a Avid Code R for almost 5 years on my bike (still lying around somewhere) and it worked perfect. Saved my and other peoples lives a few times.
I could always rely on them no matter how fast I was going.
Though I had to learn to handle so much braking power in the beginning...(I flew over the handlebars a few times in the first 6 months) 😅
Good to see you outside for a change
I just bought these brakes, it took 25 days to receive them. I am now looking forward to testing it in our dirt and rock trails. I have a weight of 225 pounds, I had Sram Level and personally I was not happy when I braked. I just think I was too heavy for braking. I then opted for Sram Guide Ultimate brakes.
I see you Doddy... Listing those currency conversion like a boss😏🤙🏾
You say it drives you mad when pads wear and you have to fiddle with bite point, it drives me insane to because on my guide rs, I have to take the wheel of the adjust the bite point and if I don’t keep on top of the bit point I’ll loop out doing manual going really fast because the lever hits my finger, and hit hurts like crazy when you can’t just run out of it and end up eating tarmac. Really good video though and your my favorite gmbn presenter, I love hearing you geek out about all the technical aspects of everything, keep it up! Probably my next brakes too!
Thanks! 🤙 Have you tried simply running the lever blade a little further out? If you are needing to pump the lever to keep on top of the bite point it sounds like you need to bleed the brake. 👍
GMBN Tech it hurts my fingers to put my lever out any more and it gives me hand fatigue. My brakes also have a perfect bleed on them, I just have to take the wheel out and pull the lever a few times to push the pads closer to the rotors but not enough to make the brakes rub though. I just have to mess with engagement by pulling the wheel out and pulling the lever weekly because the pads wear and make dead space in between the rotors. Sintered seems to have fixed this problem a little because I’ve had the brakes for a few months and have already worn through like 4 sets of pads (non sintered)
So I just finally switched over my SRAM Code brakes and drivetrain to Shimano XTR on a 2019 Turbo Levo. This is an absolutely huge difference in braking ability compared to SRAM Code and now you can shed speed faster and later into corners and with 1 finger with zero arm and hand fatigue. I am a big guy that goes fast on a heavy bike and after having both I can tell you for sure that all that modulation that people talk about is absolute rubbish. The Shimano difference is so wide and confidence inspiring I cannot believe people even compare the two in the same sentence. I also think that they have enough modulation for anyone. On SRAM I was looking to upgrade the discs from 200 to 220 but then just decided to switch Shimano XTR 9120 with 203 Ice tech and the power difference is significantly better. Then just the shifter, derailleur and rear cassette, everything but the crank, and I can tell you that Shimano blows away SRAM in all ways.
Avid hydraulic we're good brakes, when working...
Looks like a great set up I have rode avid since 2004 and will always ride top shelf breaks
perfect for what we needed it for
not having to use the dials to correct for pad wear seems to good to be true, but I hope that is true, with my Shimano M6000 I have to add fluid few times.
Better feel, better quality, better power...... so now its a shimano *g*
Doesn't feel like Shimano until you have to pump it two or three times before it actually brakes
@@skermie lol...yes in recent years, not for older stuff tho.
Actually for trail and dh brakes, sram has won every test I have read in mtb press for past few years...shimano only just brought.out trail 4 pots and that's spendy xtr, but their entry level xc deore 2 pots actually consistently do better than levels and even preferred over recent xt's as use old design without all the bite point issues
He said the Avid Juicy brakes were phenomenal... LOL
yeah that caught my ear too lol
I had Guide R on my bike... I liked slx (m7000) from my previous bike. I'll upgrade the guide.. but which one i should use? Sram G2 RSC, Sram Code R, Shimano m7120 (SLX 4 piston with Metal pads)... i found all of these at same price here in Brazil...
They probably work wonderfully but magura does it for me, never going to change!
Shimano and Magura
Shigura !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Japan/German
Guide RE are just the old Code caliper and the first generation guide R lever...better to go with the new G2 or new Code brakes...the old calipers need the conical washers on both sides and are quite a pain to adjust...they alo have very little space between the pad and the disc.The new G2 have the swinglink and even though you don't get the banjo caliper hose nut on the RS model(only on the RSC) they are still about as powerful as the RE and feel a lot better.They are also a breeze to bleed with the new bleeding edge adaptor as opposed to the standard screw on both sides...After being a Shimano purist for years,i have to give it to the G2 as it is one of the best brakes out there,with great modulation and awesome lever feel reliability,on my daily,narrow tire bike.The modulation is especially important using these small street tyres,and they have a great way of delovering maximum power in a controlled manner.
New stuffs new set ups
More power, better modulation, better reliability, better lever feel... I was told the same thing in 2015 when I just bought my Sram Guide RSC, I have only been disappointed by Sram brakes (Elixir 3, Elixir 9, DB3 and of course Guide RSC). Just go with Shimano, bigger and better pads, easier to bleed, super reliable and maybe it's just personal but the lever feel on Shimano brakes is more ergonomic. And still using DOT fluid... But hey, good luck with these brakes Sram.
Hi Doddy, very interesting video today .. as usual ;-)
Keep the good work !!! Cheers !!!
Thanks Robert! 🍻👍
So are they going to be reliable and keep working in the sun? Can Bicycle Mechanics sleep at night!
We have just back ordered a few hundred sets of Shimano brakes to upgrade up sram brakes coming on 2020 model year new brakes.
We just got a tip from a few Bikeshops to fit the Sram brakes to Kids bike's.
I hope so, i noticed that the Gen 2 has a different internal piston shape compared to the original guides. Ordered a set to fit into my guide RE which stuck up.
will these new G2 levers work with the older guide calipers? My guide RSC lever is frozen yet again and want to replace with newer tech that hopefully works.
Yes, they will.
I love the ambidextrous feature of this brake. Why didn't it come sooner?
It does make swapping brakes around very easy! They have been doing this flip-flop for a while now.
@@gmbntechohh since when? Well our market here is dominated by Shimano lol
@@gmbntech really? I have 2017 guide rsc's...but swapped the hoses round...dont tell me I could have just flipped the lever...the bleed port would have been upside down...surely these have.one top and bottom then?
@@rupedog my 2017 guide rsc have bleed ports on both sides
I'm pretty sure Avid levers were always ambidextrous right back to the early Juicy's and SpeedDial cable Levers. Its nothing new.
what do I think of these... well for cost of just 1 set of lever & caliper, I can get both front and rear Shimano mt520 4 piston brakes + rotors... so... no thanks.
As Doddy suggested if you are after a more gravity focused brake check the Code range out. The Code R is a great 4-piston alternative to the M520 and pricing is competitive.
@@gmbntech Hi, Code brakes are awesome and they perform fantastically and the fastest riders on the planet use them... BUT they are really expensive! code rsc's are more than twice the price of the shimano mt520 4 piston brakes, everytime sram come out with a new brake everyone is talking about them, and there are plenty of great reviews... yet shimano come out with affordable 4 piston brakes that perform similarly to many way higher priced options and can barely find a whisper from any big mountain biking publications... its almost as if sram spend huge amounts more money on marketing and advertising than other brake brands...
@@gmbntech that's some terrible advice and lame marketing. They are in no way price comparitive and you know it.
Bwah, released the same day I got my codes in
So what? They're more powerful than these new ones are.
I know some people buy metalic and resin pads. Then they put one side resin and second side metalic pads on same brake. It will work in high temperature (metalic) but also in slow speed and low temperature (resin).Is this a good idea on any disc brakes (metalic disc)??
Hi, i have the G2RS and want to know the best way to bed them in? I've watched a sram tutorial and did laps up n down a hill to get more power. But still super spongy and can barely lock up the wheel. Thanks
Maybe bleed the brakes, sounds like it.
How would these compare to Magura MT5?
Does back wheel have quick release?
I think code R is cheaper and better? Why didnt they have the lever bearing on the RSC G2.
Is it possible to use 160 rotor for rear brake?
I am in need of upgrading my older avid juicy 5's. Long over due. Considering the SRAM G2 RSC or the Magura MT5. Anyone have experience with either? I have a 2008 stump jumper and do not do down hill.
Now all I can think of is when are they gonna release the Code 2
Mmmmmm. 220mm
How to repair mechanical disk break s
How are they broken?
are the weights for a set or for one side?
Um, there are a lot of comments saying how bad Avid brakes were. Those were the early disc/k brakes. The canti's were fantastic. That is why SRAM bought Avid.
Two or is it one? Great show 👍
So many different opinions... Where i live - most of the people started to avoid Shimano mainly because their leaking levers became a plague (and cracking/leaking pistons but to lesser degree). And mechanics do not suggest them for this reason - one even showed me a whole bin of levers waiting for repair kit... Most prefer Sram's feel as well so i see more Sram brakes everyday. Thinking of trying G2 myself...
Damn your bike is cool
What size riser bars are those? What rise size stem? Doddy can you please make a video about sizing for tall guys? I'm 6'5" and wondering if I need to raise my stack / bars
Hi...I'm still using some ,8 year old this year, Elixir crsc carbon lever brakes,with complete new internals about 15 months ago,Scintered Pads...and they're bloody wicked..even still...To me brake technology hasn't progressed so far as say Geometry and Suspension...Although my Extreme riding down Long hills is Rare...I do 50-70 Trail Miles each week....Never had a problem.." until i had to replace all the gubbins in the levers ofcourse"...Ha !
Geometry and suspension tech has been very noticeable over the past few years. Whilst these brake technology improvements maybe seem subtle, we think it's important to see a constant improvement when new models are released. All these details over the years have definitely added up to improve both safety and the riding experience out on the trails. 🤙
Have to say looks like.the bite point adjustment design flaw not fixed tho... if u have guides, bleed them with the adjuster ¾ way in (dir of arrow), not fully out. Then after back off. The sram pro mechs do this as the bite point is effectively the wrong way round. It pulls the pads Further away, not closer as you would want!
Will allow u to firm up the lever feel, but still back off a little if got rub. Otherwise any adjustment of bite point means lever hits bar before pads grip!
But are they more grabby? I never liked the "spongy" feel of Sram brakes, they can be had quite cheaply compared to shimano though, and don't seem to have any issues with pistons cracking and bite point shifting, but the longish lever travel is what really kills the deal for me, I like to modulate with force applied, not with spongy levers.
You can adjust both the lever reach and the pad "Travel" or "Stroke" before rotor impact on these. It's worth remembering that any hydraulic brake needs zero air in the system and therefore needs a bleed if you find the lever becoming spongy.
@@gmbntech I'm not talking about dead stroke travel, I'm talking about the travel from the bite point to the wheel lockup, even though force required to lock the wheel is similar to shimano, the lever travel always was much more on Sram brakes, even when bled properly.
which in turn always results to a feeling "wow these have almost no braking power" when switching from Shimano or similar, until I focus to overcome my muscle memory and push the lever further to get used to them after a couple of minutes, but the bad feeling never disapears.
Doddy, do you maybe know which forks can take the new 220 rotors?
Currently most dual crown forks support this rotor size, but as this is so new we are not sure on ratings for single crown forks. We will look into it and hopefully have more information on this when the rotors are released.
@@gmbntech great! Thanks.
I am running avid code 5 brakes and for me they're perfect. The rear one is in perfect condition idk how I found it. The front one is with juicy 7 lever but it is ok. The front one is from 2007 and the rear one is from 2009 and they're perfect for me
How do they compare in feeling with the old model and the shimano brakes? I feel like i need to brake for ever to stop even if i have the guide ultimate(or as some say "one of the most powerfull brakes on the market". One of the things i'm also interested is the reliability of the brakes. The old model is horrible in this category.
Alex Mocuta I have shimanos xt and sram guide ultimate and both bikes and the sram has way more modulation which is very helpful in some instances but the xt are more powerful and sensitive with not modulation. You have to learn how to brake with the xt specially in downhill...both are good but I prefer the sram a bit better..
It cannot be described how much I enjoyed this video. Brillant
Thanks Joel! 🤟
Formula Cura ftw!
Mtb brakes...another example of divided world we live in! If u want on/off feel and more straightforward go Shim or mag, if u want more modulated/controllable feel and (currently) more useable power, and are more precise in ur maint, go sram.
I think.a lot of people carry old perceptions. Avids had inconsistency issues, now shimano does. Saint were the go to dh brake, now its codes (but also trail as light). Want lower price point 2 pots, get deores (also better than current xt's as old design without bite point issue!). Want light, powerful and different, magura. Want top build/looks, and back-up/spares, loosing out on weight and power to mag/sram get hope. Pays ur money...but u cant judge any current model by its grandfather, nor believe the current model is great based on past reliability...
Want to know your local bike shop employees better? Get SRAM and you'll be in there several times a year for warranty replacements.
Want the best brakes there is? Get Hayes Dominion A4's.
How big can be the difference with top end brakes vs entry level budget mtb brakes (like shimano deore or similar) vs something in the middle? In a tangible way and in a confidence inspiring perception, I think it would be a great comparisson
the difference is massive. Night and day.
Every bike I've owned and friends have owned with avid\sram have had issues with pistons, seals and just generally been a nightmare. Ever since i went Shimano I've not had a single issue.
Where do you get the red code from?
Black box rider, r&d for sram, or a sponsored rider
A few thoughts from someone's that been doing this bike thing a while (30+ years). Sorry in advance for the long rant.
I'm one of those "tried Avid and had a bad experience" people. Avid Elixir brakes were supplied with my Cannondale Scalpel 1 back in the day and they were AWFUL. Aside from the incessant squealing (which makes me NOT want to brake - personal thing) they just just kept on breaking. My mechanic at the time couldn't figure it out - swapped every part we could but they'd just break again. Everything from fastenings coming loose to hydraulic lines leaking to modulation getting spongy within a month. Basically they were the worst brakes I've ever owned.
This was back in 2011. Changed to Shimano brakes and haven't looked back. I went with XTR so I know I got the best of the best, but I still have those brakes TODAY, in March 2019. Same levers, same calipers, same hoses. Everything 100% original from the original box, except pads obviously. Have bled them once or twice, but that's the ONLY maintenance I've done. Maintenance schedules probably say I should do more but they simply don't need to be touched. I'm the type of person that loves buying the latest thing but I'll never replace those brakes. Kinda like my XTR race pedals - bought them in 2011 and they're still perfect.
My trail bike is SRAM end-to-end (except the brakes, which are also XTR) and I freakin' love the XX1 setup. In other words, I'm a big SRAM fan. And yeah SRAM might have their name on the G2 models but to me they're still associated with brakes that caused preventable crashes and endless frustration.
@Andrew Dodd Yep, and my comments are purely based on experience, too. Unfortunately, it doesn't take much to sway someone one way or the other, especially when the malfunction of a product causes you to crash at high speed. I agree that any product can fail but again, once you've had a taste of consistent failure it's difficult to get swayed back the other way. With XTR brakes specifically in this case, I've had the opposite experience - perfection since day 1.
Logically, it would be silly to say all Avid products "suck" or something along those lines, and I was careful not to say that. By the same logic, they certainly DON'T suck - if they did, they wouldn't be on the bikes of riders at world cup level.
But yeah, having also ridden a ton of products over the years I've also seen the good and the bad ... Panaracer Smoke or Biopace, anyone? ;-)
How does it fair to shimano XTRs or SLXs
Adam stick with shimano
What bleed block did you use? did the glide ultimate block fit these brakes?
Loving the channel but this new concept is brilliant and informative big thumbs up
Thanks Paul! 🤙
Braking is a huge problem in sram brakes. Do they finally brake?
Always have and always will 🤣
@@gmbntech he means brake not break :))
@@MrVersix In that case then.. No 😂
Ha yes when you have to adjust your levers EVERY 3 RIDES and this just drives me insanely mad + have some Hayes MX5 mechanical brakes and it has little to no modulation so these brakes are probably the ones I will buy just to not having to adjust the levers even when the pads are worn
bRO YOU SHRED!
These weren’t too much for your hardtail? Because I have a new Ti hardtail that needs brakes!
They are designed as an all rounder brake Ryan 👍
Perfect 🤘🏼
The one time you need to show how good wet condition performance new disc brakes have, it's sunny in UK ;D
Dumb question. Is that price for 2 or 1?
Id guess one based on the price of their other brakes.
thats quite a nice price, only if they would be with mineral oil...
They better not be too good; I just bought a set of Trickstuff Piccolas.
How fo they feel ?
@@johnmes6967 They arrive in June.
Ohh but isn't that alot of time ?
@@johnmes6967 Longer than that. I ordered early December! It will be worth the wait.
I envy you
This is a... pretty... good video.. very well made, informative... pretty good
Thanks Duncan 🤙
They look great...flip flop idea is brill, assuming bleed port doesnt end up on the bottom of lever, but wasnt really getting if pads are interchangeable with old guides? Said same shape, but then hole in caliper smaller? Pads in guides only just fit through, so must be smaller pads if smaller hole in g2?
Tho.anyone using oem pads is mad! Uberbike semi metallics or BBB performance organic both offer way better results. BBB po proven in german mtb mag test of only pads (diff pafs makes in same brake- not whole brake system with supplied oem pads, like all uk tests).
Kudos to sram for really improving their brakes over the years. I strated off with those elixir crs and they were the worst brake I have ever ever riden. Today though most of Srams brakes are on paar with all the other manufacturers
Exept that the other manufacturers talk about their problems and not just lay them on the side and produce another brake... 4 of my guide r brakes got seized up... no Sram for me...
I have had Shimano (M365) and SRAM (Level T) hydraulic brakes, as well as some Tektro mechanical ones. Personally I think hydraulic is the way to go, as for branding, I'm not convinced that it really makes a huge difference. They both make brakes that work effectively, the technology is pretty mature, just make sure that whatever you buy is rated for what you intend to do.
I has that bar!
#askgmbntech i need to buy new brakes for my dirtjumper but i dont know wich ones are best for my ridingstyle because i ride alot of gravity jumps on my dirtjumper.
Will never touch avid brakes in my life! Shimano provides much better breaking power, easier to bleed and a lot cheaper to replace a hose
Actually the braking power is comparable with proper brake pads (when comparing apples to apples, ie servo wave shimano and servo equipped sram brakes), it's just there is more lever travel with sram which makes it feel less powerful. If they improved on that a bit in this generation, I might consider these, as Shimano is quite overpriced compared to sram on second hand market, and Sram doesn't have cracking piston or shifting bite point issues like shimano does.
@@piciu256 but me as a bike mechanic can sleep at night because I will know that my shimano brake will always work... and have the same modulation. And don't need to bleed them every year... aaaaand so on...
@@banoodel5121 well, I'm a Shimano guy for sure, cannot stand the Sram spongy feel, but apart from swelling brake lever pistons, there were not much issues with the previous generation guides, while Shimano still has known issues of wandering bite point (this I have trouble with personally) and dying seals+ breaking ceramic pistons, granted these issues can all be categorized as qc issues (except for the crappy seals) but so can the Sram Guide issues (apart from the swealing levers, that's just bad design), these brakes are sold on bikes in massive numbers, nothing is perfect, it just so happened that Shimano is liked more for the lever feel and is easier to service properly.
@@piciu256 well yeah then that means at least for me that Shimanos are the better brakes... I ride an XT 4 piston and have issius myself with an wandering bite point even when the brake is completly cold... but i hate the feel of a guide R where you can just pull the lever until it is at the handlebar... I mean what is this?!? It doens't even have nearly as much power as a cheap shimano deore brake if you ask me...
Banoodel shimano brakes are shit. I’ve been through four different XT brakes and three SLX’s in the last year. All suffering from the same problems (leaky pistons / wandering bite point) and they don’t work particularly well when they’re not playing up on the other hand my guide RSC’s are over three years old still work perfectly and have had two bleeds ever. Sram are so much better than shimano it’s hard not to laugh at idiots like you talking nonsense.
Sram should come up with something to replace the lower end Guid brakes (the Guire T, Guide R) because, for the price, they're pretty weak, compared to what other brands offer.
great stuff as usual, i think you should consider twice a week for the tech show,
a little it of over time for the lads?
ta . very much for the upload
We have a new Tech presenter called Henry now! This will help us produce even more content 😀 🔧
I LIKE THOS BRECKES
And so they continue to use DOT fluid... what a shame...
That's what I thought
Sram believe that DOT 5.1 is the best fluid to use in their brakes.
Do you put mineral oil in your car brakes?
@@i_eatstyrofoam do your bike weight 1.5 tons?
@@akronyme No. And the brakes are accordingly powerful. Mineral has no regulated boiling temperature, whereas DOT does.
One of the first video of you guys that I stopped watching. Just call it advertisement instead of firstlook...
Well there's a + on the thumbnail (which means ad) so Idk what's your problem really. Just don't click the video.
Fair point, but tbh I didnt know the thumb + meant that. O saw was promo, so hoped would be a give away...but doddy nabbed them! Dont blame him...there is a reason most ews and dh riders are now on sram... power with modulation, unlike the on/off feel of magura and shimano. However many like that style and thats fine. Each to their own. I think.u just get used to what u use first. Shimano have and still have lots bite issues on their recent xt and above brakes tho
@@rupedog Well I'm pretty lucky to have two bikes. One with Guide r's and one with XT M8000's and boy do I love sram. Although I had one stuck piston in my rear brake which I fixed and rebled, I can finally brake on Greece's loose trails. XT feel way too powerful now and trying not to lock the rear wheel even with sintered pads is impossible. Can't wait for sram's long-term plans.
I hear the new XTR brakes are better than the Saint's.... Ride both SRAM and SHIMANO on my bikes. Each one has good and bad. My first experience with Hydraulic was with HAYES loved them in 2002. But it's 2019 so maybe BREMBO needs to step into the game!
Adam Dunlap I'd love to see Brembo come up with a six caliper mtb brake just because
@@tylerfallon5774 Hope used to have done a 6pot brake in the past
You lost the rear shock!
100% failure rate for me on Guide RS, RSC, Ultimate in Phoenix, Arizona USA. Also 100% failure on Sram Level TLM. Sram brakes overheat and completely loose modulation. Even after warranty repair, they fail again. As a rider in the desert hillsides, I'm better off biking with ice-cold water to cool off Sram brake handles rather than drinking it.
They should have been recalled. And their “fix” didn’t do anything. SRAM doesn’t give a crap about rider safety.
Had the same experience.
As a LBS mechanic in Phoenix AZ I can 100% verify that Guide RS brakes seize up in the heat. We keep extra rebuild and replacement kits in stock because of how many warranty swaps we do.
Guide is a good enough brake in more temperate climates, they just can't handle the heat out here. Piston swelling isn't an issue for them on the east coast like it is here.
Typical brake problem phone call at the shop...
Customer: Hey my brakes are seized up, IDK what happened.
Me: Guides?
Customer: Uh, yeah.
Me: Bring it in, we'll replace them. No charge, it's a warranty issue.
Every.
Time.
Agree I love the modulation feel of rsc but yes my front lever slow returning back...... Heard its the piston(plastic) overheats and expands. Surely sram should have solution to this problem? Oh yeah buy a tool for 10 pounds to put new cylinder back in. Not good for price of brakes.
Nice
#askgmbn
Could you make a video explaining how to choose rotor sizes and things to consider when changing brake sets. I can't get my head around it 😵
I love the look of these brakes. I’ve been looking for a really powerful brake for my bike for a long time. My brake levers always come loose as well, so I’m very interested in these.
They are shit and lack Power as well as codes. Get some saints and save in problems
Get some XTR trails or the new Formula Cura 2 or 4 Piston version... most powerful 2 piston brake i've ever ridden.
More Hardtail!!!
In my opinion, those who say that sram brakes are really very powerful is because they have never tried shimano or magura
Shimano are better in my opinion
No more SRAM brake!
How did you get the red code brakes?
They are pro issue only but some of our presenters managed to get some recently. Blake and Neil both have their names on the lever blades 🤙
Oh no another brake Sram? Everyone knows Shimano is the brand to go to for brakes. Using them for years even neglecting some of the maintenance the brakes perform admirably. Personally using Sram level TL, the brakes literally can't be use in hot weather as the brakes somehow got stuck slightly (in close position) enough to make the brake caliper pinch the disk brake and my wheel does not even spinning freely. Happens to both front and rear. Sold it and get Shimano deore xt brakes. No problem since then. What's not to love? Shimano all the way
Level for street doe
These prices again are simply absurd when a entire system from zoom on aliexpress cost less than one caliper. If you were at the Taipei show this year then everybody has hydraulics and most are darn good. There is no way these prices are actually real anymore and their sales will reflect that. Its only people that dont know anything or dont actually ride or dont actually care how much anything cost would be purchasing these. This bizarre world of high end biking gets you a name nowadays and that's about it.
Smooooooooooooooooooth
Why doesn't anyone make anything as good as Avid Juicy? The Juicy 3s were phenomenal. SRAM Codes were extremely disappointing in comparison.
But do they make that awful squealing/chirping sound that other sram brakes make?
that's due to the rotors I think, the huge venting holes probably have somethign to do with it. I use Hope Floating rotors no issues with that, also slow wear, great performance,, not noisy, work great.
Loved the old avid brake but I absolutely hate the new guides, both of mine failed on me. Absolute junk
I had Guide RSC brakes on my old bike and Code RSC on the new one. Both are amazing, but the Codes will stop a car. I think all these Sram haters must have had the cheaper models cause the top end ones work fantastic.
Guide RSC, replaced under warranty 2 times, currently have them in storage as I won't risk it again. It's a well known issue to do with heat, you haven't looked if you aren't aware.
Big plus of guides was fully sealed bearing on rsc and ultimates. Real shame they have down specced these new rsc, so bushings. Poor decision imo.
Hug a tree at 5min 26sec
You could just add a time mark ex) 5:26
Yes I could.
I hate it when tech journalists feel the need to post revisionist history to cater to suppliers. Avid were always crap. Let the truth set you free.