there is a much easier way! take the old scrap alt apart to where you got only the shaft and armature on it! put you backlash gear in place,use the old altanator shaft insert it in the splines and turn it clock wise ti line the gears on the backlash and push it straight into place! i hope this makes it easy for you! it worked great for me!
Instead of using the old alternator shaft, as described by @Pastor, use a 12mm Allen key or Allen box that you insert in the spline. Fits perfect. Either way, no need to remove oil pan or use "Lewis key" method.
great video. Your idea of using the cotter pin and cable is great. I'm fixing to do the 40 amp upgrade myself. Do all the methods used require removal of the swing arm? and where did you order your parts from. Thanks
if this guy thought about it get something to match the splines to turn it as you install the drive and match the first part of the gear then turn it to preload it and push it the rest of the way in
That's not a bad idea - except that you don't know exactly where the gear is when it's out of sight. Getting 'something' might not be so easy although you could get an old shaft and saw a bit off to make up a tool with some welding etc but this is a much more accessible method which doesn't need a welder and equipment to manufacture a tool for one single purpose. If you have the tools like most of us you probably have a bit of cable and a suitable pin and if not they're easy to come by. I think that is the point of this method - it's for the DIY guys...
You can buy a new one for $200 off of eBay www.ebay.com/itm/304318177233?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=vdp1maRqSMi&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I think you will find that the purpose of the cotter pin is precisely to get the teeth in line. This method is designed by the manufacturer - Honda - with the exception that Honda say you should remove the sump (oil pan for you foreign types). The trouble with that approach is that to remove the sump, you need to remove the exhausts, which means you need... Oh never mind - where's my cotter pin...? Incidentally I thought a cotter pin was a different item - is this not called a split-pin?
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there is a much easier way! take the old scrap alt apart to where you got only the shaft and armature on it! put you backlash gear in place,use the old altanator shaft insert it in the splines and turn it clock wise ti line the gears on the backlash and push it straight into place! i hope this makes it easy for you! it worked great for me!
Instead of using the old alternator shaft, as described by @Pastor, use a 12mm Allen key or Allen box that you insert in the spline. Fits perfect. Either way, no need to remove oil pan or use "Lewis key" method.
Wow! Gold stars for ingenuity!
I have followed what this guy has done and it works
Great, a solution that really works
great video. Your idea of using the cotter pin and cable is great. I'm fixing to do the 40 amp upgrade myself. Do all the methods used require removal of the swing arm? and where did you order your parts from. Thanks
if this guy thought about it get something to match the splines to turn it as you install the drive and match the first part of the gear then turn it to preload it and push it the rest of the way in
That's not a bad idea - except that you don't know exactly where the gear is when it's out of sight. Getting 'something' might not be so easy although you could get an old shaft and saw a bit off to make up a tool with some welding etc but this is a much more accessible method which doesn't need a welder and equipment to manufacture a tool for one single purpose. If you have the tools like most of us you probably have a bit of cable and a suitable pin and if not they're easy to come by. I think that is the point of this method - it's for the DIY guys...
great info video, im stuck with my 28amp alternator, do i really need to remove swingarm
Simply put - yes!
The swing-arm pivot is right behind the rear of the alternator. You won't be able to remove the old one with the arm in place...
yes you do have to remove the swingarm! yes joanna you are right!
video is missing half the info the assembly with cotter pin is that parts from the old alternator????????????????????
And how much did you pay for that new 40 Amp alternator out of curiosity as I know it's really expensive
You can buy a new one for $200 off of eBay www.ebay.com/itm/304318177233?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=vdp1maRqSMi&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
@@yoopergonzo thanks
This wont work. What u dont see is that all the teeth must be in one line. And that part is cut out of this vid.
What?? It works. I did it.
I think you will find that the purpose of the cotter pin is precisely to get the teeth in line. This method is designed by the manufacturer - Honda - with the exception that Honda say you should remove the sump (oil pan for you foreign types). The trouble with that approach is that to remove the sump, you need to remove the exhausts, which means you need... Oh never mind - where's my cotter pin...? Incidentally I thought a cotter pin was a different item - is this not called a split-pin?