Genuis work sir. I just bought this table saw...soon to be unboxed and you with other videos are a tremendous help to this retired 57 yrs young newbie woodworker. I want to sincerely thank you for teaching/showing your fine work.
Just got word my 4512 is ready for pick up. I have been stalking RUclips for every how to video involving it. Best I have seen so far. Thanks for taking the time to make it.
Thank you! It is a great saw and you'll love it. All the T-tracks make it jig friendly. Take the time to set it up and check alignments. I was quite lucky in that everything was perfect right out of the box. Some have had to tweak it a little. If you run into any problems, there's help here, and Home Depot's support. Have fun! Thank you!
I have an older Craftsman 10" Contractor Table saw and have been contemplating on adding a combo extension / router table. After watching you do yours I have confidence that i can pull it off. Thanks for a great presentation and some great ideas !
i just got a R4512 table saw and ive been looking for different ways to attach a router table to the open wing. i love what you've come up with. excellent job Gary!
I don’t comment very often on RUclips….. But I must give you a high five on the video and my favorite part was that laminate dowel spacer trick! Very cool. I won’t forget that ! Thanks
Going to use your build on our 4512 to put in a router table. I like the idea of using the bottom tracks to build up the supports for the table. Thanks.
This is a perfect example of taking your time and doing it right. I absolutely love your attention to detail. The primer in the track slots to protect the MDF is something I'm sure a lot of people don't even think about. I know I wouldn't have. I just sub'd and I hope to learn a lot from your style. You remind me a lot of my dad. He was in to model railroading and one of the things he told me long ago was don't be in so big of a hurry. When applied to model railroading, he meant that you never want to be finished. In general though, it was his style to take his time and pay attention to detail. He made some great models in his time.
Thank you! Y'know, model railroading is another interest of mine since I was a little guy. I still have a small N scale train, but not set up anymore. It's in a box. :-( But, yes, attention to detail is important, and not to rush things. Today many people have a 'Fast Food' mentality. We want it fast! Craftsmanship is something that takes some skill, time, and patience. Kudos to your dad!
Excellent job Gary. I have the R4512 also, but I've swapped out fence systems to the Incra TS-LS. I then added an Incra router table extension to the left of my saw with a router lift and Incra's Clean Sweep. I haven't done it yet, but I understand I can shift the position of my fence towards the left of the saw and I can then use it as a router fence. Some day I plan to purchase Incra's router fence (to partner with the saw fence) and I'll have the "whole package". Thanks for a detailed and informative video for the R4512 users out here.
Thank you! I looked at other options with fences and router tables you can buy. Decided to do this and it saved me a lot of $$. I think I spent less than $100. I'm sure what you did gave you better functionality. Thanks!
Thank you, I've had a Kreg router table but didn't know how to mount it on the wing of my table saw. I absolutely love how you used the T-track! That is exactly how I'm going to do it. This has been on my mind for some time and you solved my problem. I appreciate it.
I've been looking for table saw video that shows how to make a router extension. Your example is the best I've seen yet and will work well with the Rockler Pro Plate I just bought. Thank for all the tips like priming and then using oil based paint to seal the MDF. Attention to details are what I look for when building anything. Excellent instructions and well thought project. Bob
Thanks for your reply. I know for what you pay for, I am old craftsman, pipe and plumber. But after a long illness, I have started to do little things quietly, it means a lot to have something to do. Thanks for your vidio on youtube, they are very good and easy to follow, and very professional. I have received many great tips from you, thank you very much.
Hi Oli! Thanks! for your kind words. Are you of Swedish or Norwegian descent? I am of Swedish descent myself. 2nd generation US born. Y'now, we Norsemen are craftsmen, and great ship builders. 👍
Excellent job. I have a store bought router table attached to the wing of my cabinet saw, much like your set up. It is only one thickness of MDF three quarters of an inch, I am wanting to change that out for a double thickness. You have inspired me to get on to that project, I like your idea of rounding out those corners, it gives it a real nice look. Thanks for the inspiration.
I made a double thickness MDF router top and I took your lead and rounded out those corners. I put a blue patterned laminate top on, I used a blue Rockler Featherboard track and a Rockler Blue Phenolic router plate. I have a blue aluminum fence I have yet to install but it looks great so far. You inspired me and I got to it right after I saw your video. I'm so happy with the way it turned out, thanks so much for sharing your project, it got me fired up to do my own. I also have a new switch I bought, the router gets plugged into and the switch gets plugged into the wall and controls the router. Thanks for the inspiration.
AndyB My new router plate is a Rockler Phenolic, it's 3/8 of an inch thick and if you take it slightly deeper like some like to do for adjustment purposes and use adjustment screws under the plate. It leaves you with 3/8 of an inch or a tad less, from what was originally a 3/4 inch thick MDF board. Having a double thickness, you absolutely cannot go wrong and if you are going to mount this between the fence rails on either side of your table saw. Having that thickness to put screws into or whatever method you're going to utilize to secure your router top in place will result in a much more secure installation. It also gives you a little more meat when you install your featherboard track and the track for your fence. With my new router table top, I now have four router tables all double thickness and on wheels. And like my new one, I won't have any issues crop up regarding the thickness and solidity of my routers.
Excellent work, and excellent narration, and the best part... no annoying music! I am going to use some of your mods in my soon-to-be-built router table. I can't use all of your mods because I have the Ridgid R4511 which has a different rail and fence system. Thanks for sharing.
Very nice. This is the best setup I've seen for a saw extension router table. I have a similar fence on my saw and with some minor adjustments to your plan, I am going to build one for my table saw. Thanks
hi Gary ....i watch alot of videos on here and i must say that was or is the best explained easy to follow and not be confused video i have seen to date....thanks and you should keep do all your videos like this one .....MUCH APPRECIATED.....
Really a good video, very instructive and complete in the audio portion too. I am going to build a a router table on one of my wings also. I found this very helpful. Thank you, Richard
I just finished adding the same upgrade to my Ridgid table saw… Except that I cut my existing Freud router tabletop and reused it instead of making a whole other router tabletop. It does fall a little short of the end of the table saw’s rails of course… but a will next extend the repurposed Freud router tabletop by installing a 6-inch deep cabinet with tip-out shelves for router bit storage and router accessories. The main advantage of doing it this way is the savings in time and material but also that I get to continue to use the original miter gauge track AND all of the original properly positioned threaded inserts are available if I wish to the use the original dust-extracting fence!
Amazing. That is definitely an engineering mind at work. You thought of everything sir. Very informative. Thanks for sharing your tallents. Keep up the good work Gary!
Fantastic! I will be coming back to this to try to do the same thing. I see you like to use T tracks a lot. And I can see why. Thank you very much for sharing! 👏👏👏👏👏
I don't know what prompted me to click on this video nor why I watched the entire thing. I don't have this table saw nor do I have any plans to make a router table insert for my table saw or make a new router table. In short, the topic of this video was totally irrelevant to me. Still, it turned out to be highly informative just to watch how Gary approached the problem as well as how to process MDF and the laminate. Just goes to show that it can be well worth your while to watch any good craftsman perform his craft.
Great video. Thank you for sharing this step-by-step build without sending viewers to a website to buy your plans. Also, just a suggestion... When I need to fill something like that MDF edge, I use an all-purpose filler. Bondo makes their same auto-body filler for other uses like home repair. Most home improvement stores carry it. When it cures, it's incredibly strong, sandable, and water resistant.
some wonderful ideas here - been thinking about putting a panel down on the open wing, and then a cart underneath the wing for tools and mitre gages, etc. this was very helpful
Thank you! Glad you got something from it. The laminate I got was a return so I got it for 1/2 price at Lowes, and my military discount. In the shop I'm not as fussy, it was not ugly, so it was good enough for me. 👍😀
Nice, well thought out video. Your style of presentation is very relaxed and yet keeps the3 viewer engaged. Great little tips that most people wouldn't think of. Thanks
My god, during the entire video I expected you to start yelling at Donny and telling him he is out of his element! Great job on table Mr. Goodman, er Lundgren.
Hey Gary, Nice job. I did a quick version of this on my Ridgid a year back. I'm using what you did as a much better guide for what I did. I was thinking of ditching the metal stamped wing and going straight to the cast iron. I'm not a big fan of the stamped wings although they work fine. Thanks again, Ken
Thank you! I had thought of eliminating that wing also, but wanted the dual track to extend beyond the rails to be sure I had clearance. Clearance the rails would have been close. Making a full table would have made for a bigger and heavier router table. Thanks!
I'm not sure I understand what you mean. I know making the router table longer would have made it heavier but I'm not understanding why you didn't want to remove the gray wing and run the new router table all the way to the cast iron top.
That was a great build, Gary! I found your channel searching for router tables for the Ridgid R4512, as I'm about to pick one up, and I already have a Bosch router, but no table. Thanks for the great inspiration!
This has got to be the most detailed video on ANY subject I"ve ever watched and I"ve watched a ton on videos on here. Great job Sir. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Now how much would you charge me to build the same table? LOL
Thank you! I have been asked to make these before. The problem is that you can buy a cast iron one online (perhaps a bit heavy) for the same or less than what I would charge, plus shipping.You could be looking at a total of $400+ with me. I did the video so woodworkers can build their own and save a lot of money if just buying materials. No labor charges. One can fine tune the leveling on their own. Thanks!!
Hi Gary, no I am from the Faroe Islands, it is in between Scotland and Iceland, we are an autonomous party of Denmark, just as Greenland is an autonomous party of Denmark. So the Danish state is Denmark, the Faroe Islands and Greenland. The Faroe Islands have previously belonged to Norway. Yes The Swedes are good craftsmen and are good boatbuilders, you know that the Swedish steel is known in the world for its good quality. There are many Scandinavians moved to the United States, it has been very good for the American state, many wise and good builders and sailors from the Nordic countries have riched the United States and it is very good. Kind regards Oli Poulsen.
Gary--wonderful presentation; you add a nice bit of humor to boot (whether you knew it or not), and so it was for me, very much enjoyable; I'm sure you and I will get along digitally, just famously! As of my post here, I have spent the past week researching which router and lift to purchase, which table saw to purchase, and as I'm coming from an ancient Craftsman, also what kind of fence system I might want to employ. I'm with you on the choice of router, on the lift, and on the saw. However, I intend to employ the Incra fence which as I understand it, will make it very much easier to include a single-fence system allowing for 1/32" repeatable machining; used both for the table saw as well as router. And then as I found, the Incra fence system does adapt for the use of a single 3/4" extension; and all of it attaches to the Incra rails just as you have done--brilliant! Much thanks; informative. Can't wait to get started!
Nice router table added to your Ridged table saw. just got my table saw R4512 want to do something like that to mine. thanks for sharing. got my sub...
Looks great sir, I'm looking into getting a table saw , not sure which one yet maybe the Ridgid R4512 or the JET Proshop! Both have good reviews, but the Ridgid is considerably less expensive! I love your design for the router table in extension wing , it's just simply brilliant!!👍😀
Thank you! I like the Ridgid table saw. It is stable, solid, and has all the options I'm aware of. What they don't have, we make a jig for that. I like that the Ridgid has all those T-slots on the rails and fences. That makes for a lot of adaptability. I used the T-slots on the back rail for mounting an outfeed table. (see my video on that.) I don't know that other saws have that.
Very nice. I have a Menard's Master Force professional Contractor saw which is almost identical to the Ridgid Hybrid Cabinet Saw that you have. This is an awesome idea and I will have to try it on my saw.👍
Nice design, I like it. Now, i just have to start saving pennies for MDF and T-tracks! Thanks for the great step-by-step tutorial showing us what you did. It looks like it turned out great; hopefully it works as well. Let us know if you thought about any ways to improve the design after using it a while.
Very nice job. I’ve been looking at buying a cast iron wing to fit my Craftsman contractor saw. I had an aluminum one but the slots for bolting it to the table cracked and could never keep it level. You sir have convinced me to build my own.
I’ll be getting my new R4512 next week and I’m trying to decide if I want to purchase a router extension or build one. Well after watching thus I thunk if I can muster up the courage I just may. Very nice
Thank you! Good luck with yours. You can do it. Building it it much cheaper than buying, and you get to make it the way you like it. Also, maybe learn some new skills. Thanks!
The manual for the saw has a section on how to make the insert so it's certainly worth a try. I'm going to do it when I get mine in a week or two (tax return, baby!)
Thanks for watching! I have not experienced any sag in the rails. It was a concern. I used a straight edge to check it. It holds up well. But I don't do any heavy work on my router table. Not making furniture. Thanks! 👍
I have the identical saw but with the Craftsman label on it. I'm going to see if I have that same t track on mine. I have been thinking of building a whole cabinet for my saw. I have a great router table now that I bought in Canada it looks like a piece of furniture but it would be nice to have a second one set up for round overs. Very nice job and it was wise of you to paint the bare MDF because it will soak up moisture as the years go by.
Thank you! I did have an inquiry to make one. After figuring costs and shipping, it is cheaper to buy one of those cast iron tables from www.mlcswoodworking.com. With mass production they can do it cheaper. What I did is for the DIY'r to save $$. Thanks for the encouragement!
Excellent job. I plan to do a similar thing with my Ridgid model R45171. It's a down market version of your R4512 so it's not built the same with the same dimensions. However, my MDF sheet fits perfectly between the edge of the table and the edge of the extended part and sits perfectly on the existing rails. I plan to drill holes in the ends of the MDF and the edges of the table and extension to fit steel dowels and trap the MDF in the gap between the extension and the edge of the table and align it perfectly.
It worked great! I used a Triton router (either model will work) mainly because you can install router bits without having to go underneath the table. I used a Kreg router table inserted into 3/4 inch MDF for the table. You align it sideways so that you can work by standing on the right hand end. If you unlock the table extension and extend it to the right as far as it can go, you can insert the appropriately cut MDF table, and it fits nicely when you lock it in that position. You will have to cut a rabbet under the far side of the MDF so that it rests on the extension tracking, making sure the top surface of the router table is flush with the existing saw table.. I drilled two dowel holes on the inside face of the extension and inserted dowels in the ends of the MDF so that, when the extension is pressed to the ends of the MDF it locks it in place. The great thing is you can revert back to the untouched table saw at any time by just removing the MDF router table. All this sounds difficult to write, but it worked extremely well. Come back if you want anything clarified.
@@dacutler as soon as i get it Ill be writing lol thanks. I was hoping i could do this with that saw. The rails look a little skimpy to put much weight on. Do you remove it when not in use ? Amd I'm guessing you dont use it much for any significant amount of weight
Actually, I don't remove the router, but mainly because it doesn't restrict the use of the table saw, which I use a lot. In fact the existence of the router table doesn't affect the use of the saw when working to the left of the fence (which for me is 99.999% of the time!) because if you remove the router fence (which I modified from the old router I had) the fact that the router table is flush with the rest of the table means it might as well not be there at all as it doesn't get in the way of the normal actions of the table saw. It has all worked out much better than I hoped! Incidentally, I fitted the switch for the router on the right hand end of the table (in other words right in front of you when using the router) which is perfectly positioned for safety. I modified the on/off switch from my old router table and attached it to the extreme right had end of the extended table by drilling two holes in the end.. I have fitted two T tracks to r=each side of the router hole to handle the router fence, and another T track in front of the hole to handle a box cutter sled I have and feathers if needed. The rails are easily strong enough to support the heavy router and any work, mainly because the fit between the two faces of the extended table is so good, and the whole of the extension is evenly handling all the weight. It's not an issue
Hey Gary. Love the design of the top of the router table. It's completely different to any other table i've seen on here. Well done man. I only found ur channel this morning so I subscribed and liked the video too. I'm kind of going through the building of a small router table myself atm. I like the idea of having my own router table but I'm not so hot on one at the side of my table saw. TBF I don't have a saw like ur RIGID. I tried to get one here in IRELAND but they will not ship here and u cannot get them here either. I need to check the UK to see if they stock them anywhere so I might be able to get one. How powerful a sw is it?? HP I mean? I'm about to attempt a table saw build of my own soon. I'm going to buy a 3HP motor for it too. I like the idea of the belt and pulley system instead of those hard start motors due to the noise they make. It's like a gun shot from a sawn off shotgun or a bus back firing.. LOL KJeepup the great work pal and I will be looking into more of ur content soon.. Take care man
Thanks for the detail--Ace or a larger True Value supplies t-nuts/ "tugger" bolts in their hardware kits--might take some stress off the mount t-track, comes in std nominal sizing.
Thank you! I attached mine to the supports I made for the router table so it won't slip around or move. I may have mentioned in the video I was going to do that. I'll have to check on that. Unfortunately, I don't know if RUclips allows me to upload pics as addendums of what I did as an after note. But I'll put the pic on my web site and give a link here. glcrafts.com/images/ImgHowRtrTableFastened2Spts.jpg
Very nice! I would extend that router table right to the cast iron table and use the existing bolts to hold it in and make that router table permanent. Those stamped metal extensions are cheap and not true so replacing those with a full length melamine would be ideal.
Thank you! Yes, I do like this saw. It seems to be quite popular among woodworkers. Great performance, great price. I like the adaptability with all the T-tracks it provides. Makes it jig friendly. I'm impressed given this came from a big box store geared more towards the construction industry than home woodworkers.
I noticed your saw did not throw much dust up from the blade. How did you prevent that? Mine blows dust everywhere even with a 1 1/2 HP dust collector. Great router top by the way. I love it.
Thank you. I do have a 4" dust collection hose connected to the bottom of the tablesaw. It has a port down there. I use the Rockler Dust Right wall mounted collector item#42400.
Genuis work sir. I just bought this table saw...soon to be unboxed and you with other videos are a tremendous help to this retired 57 yrs young newbie woodworker. I want to sincerely thank you for teaching/showing your fine work.
Thank you! There are several great videos here on RUclips about unboxing, assembling, and setting up the saw. You'll like this saw.
Just got word my 4512 is ready for pick up. I have been stalking RUclips for every how to video involving it. Best I have seen so far. Thanks for taking the time to make it.
Thank you! It is a great saw and you'll love it. All the T-tracks make it jig friendly. Take the time to set it up and check alignments. I was quite lucky in that everything was perfect right out of the box. Some have had to tweak it a little. If you run into any problems, there's help here, and Home Depot's support.
Have fun!
Thank you!
I have an older Craftsman 10" Contractor Table saw and have been contemplating on adding a combo extension / router table.
After watching you do yours I have confidence that i can pull it off. Thanks for a great presentation and some great ideas !
Thank you! Glad you got the inspiration to make your own.
I was stuck on how to attach a router table to my Rigid saw. You solved the problem for me. GREAT JOB!
Thank you!
i just got a R4512 table saw and ive been looking for different ways to attach a router table to the open wing. i love what you've come up with. excellent job Gary!
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed and got the inspiration to make your own.
Genius way to solve that problem. It's great to see how you go about dealing with the challenges and your thought process. Brilliant work.
Thank you!
I have carefully watched around 70 videos of DIY router tables. This is one of the best, clearly.
Thank you!
I don’t comment very often on RUclips….. But I must give you a high five on the video and my favorite part was that laminate dowel spacer trick! Very cool. I won’t forget that ! Thanks
Thank you! 👍😀
Going to use your build on our 4512 to put in a router table. I like the idea of using the bottom tracks to build up the supports for the table. Thanks.
This is a perfect example of taking your time and doing it right. I absolutely love your attention to detail. The primer in the track slots to protect the MDF is something I'm sure a lot of people don't even think about. I know I wouldn't have.
I just sub'd and I hope to learn a lot from your style. You remind me a lot of my dad. He was in to model railroading and one of the things he told me long ago was don't be in so big of a hurry. When applied to model railroading, he meant that you never want to be finished. In general though, it was his style to take his time and pay attention to detail. He made some great models in his time.
Thank you! Y'know, model railroading is another interest of mine since I was a little guy. I still have a small N scale train, but not set up anymore. It's in a box. :-( But, yes, attention to detail is important, and not to rush things. Today many people have a 'Fast Food' mentality. We want it fast! Craftsmanship is something that takes some skill, time, and patience. Kudos to your dad!
Excellent job Gary. I have the R4512 also, but I've swapped out fence systems to the Incra TS-LS. I then added an Incra router table extension to the left of my saw with a router lift and Incra's Clean Sweep.
I haven't done it yet, but I understand I can shift the position of my fence towards the left of the saw and I can then use it as a router fence. Some day I plan to purchase Incra's router fence (to partner with the saw fence) and I'll have the "whole package".
Thanks for a detailed and informative video for the R4512 users out here.
Thank you! I looked at other options with fences and router tables you can buy. Decided to do this and it saved me a lot of $$. I think I spent less than $100. I'm sure what you did gave you better functionality. Thanks!
Thank you, I've had a Kreg router table but didn't know how to mount it on the wing of my table saw. I absolutely love how you used the T-track! That is exactly how I'm going to do it. This has been on my mind for some time and you solved my problem. I appreciate it.
Thank you! I'm glad that helped and gave you some inspiration. 👍 😀
I've been looking for table saw video that shows how to make a router extension. Your example is the best I've seen yet and will work well with the Rockler Pro Plate I just bought. Thank for all the tips like priming and then using oil based paint to seal the MDF. Attention to details are what I look for when building anything. Excellent instructions and well thought project.
Bob
Thank you!
Thanks for your reply. I know for what you pay for, I am old craftsman, pipe and plumber. But after a long illness, I have started to do little things quietly, it means a lot to have something to do. Thanks for your vidio on youtube, they are very good and easy to follow, and very professional. I have received many great tips from you, thank you very much.
Hi Oli! Thanks! for your kind words.
Are you of Swedish or Norwegian descent? I am of Swedish descent myself. 2nd generation US born.
Y'now, we Norsemen are craftsmen, and great ship builders. 👍
Excellent job. I have a store bought router table attached to the wing of my cabinet saw, much like your set up. It is only one thickness of MDF three quarters of an inch, I am wanting to change that out for a double thickness. You have inspired me to get on to that project, I like your idea of rounding out those corners, it gives it a real nice look. Thanks for the inspiration.
Thank you!
Not sure why everybody wants to use a double layer of mdf. One 3/4” is plenty sturdy IMO.
I made a double thickness MDF router top and I took your lead and rounded out those corners. I put a blue patterned laminate top on, I used a blue Rockler Featherboard track and a Rockler Blue Phenolic router plate. I have a blue aluminum fence I have yet to install but it looks great so far. You inspired me and I got to it right after I saw your video. I'm so happy with the way it turned out, thanks so much for sharing your project, it got me fired up to do my own. I also have a new switch I bought, the router gets plugged into and the switch gets plugged into the wall and controls the router. Thanks for the inspiration.
AndyB
My new router plate is a Rockler Phenolic, it's 3/8 of an inch thick and if you take it slightly deeper like some like to do for adjustment purposes and use adjustment screws under the plate. It leaves you with 3/8 of an inch or a tad less, from what was originally a 3/4 inch thick MDF board. Having a double thickness, you absolutely cannot go wrong and if you are going to mount this between the fence rails on either side of your table saw. Having that thickness to put screws into or whatever method you're going to utilize to secure your router top in place will result in a much more secure installation. It also gives you a little more meat when you install your featherboard track and the track for your fence. With my new router table top, I now have four router tables all double thickness and on wheels. And like my new one, I won't have any issues crop up regarding the thickness and solidity of my routers.
Thank you!
Your router extension is by far the nicest one I have seen. Makes me want to add it to my tablesaw.
Thank you!
Excellent work, and excellent narration, and the best part... no annoying music! I am going to use some of your mods in my soon-to-be-built router table. I can't use all of your mods because I have the Ridgid R4511 which has a different rail and fence system. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you!
Great build Gary! You are a solid craftsman. Well done and well presented. Keep it going!
Thanks!
Very nice. This is the best setup I've seen for a saw extension router table. I have a similar fence on my saw and with some minor adjustments to your plan, I am going to build one for my table saw. Thanks
Thank you!
Great design and build Gary. I wish all YT'S could edit their vids like you. thanks
Thank you!
Thats a mighty fine job on that router lift extention table , I like the removable power stop switch for your work table . Great idea thanks
hi Gary ....i watch alot of videos on here and i must say that was or is the best explained easy to follow and not be confused video i have seen to date....thanks and you should keep do all your videos like this one .....MUCH APPRECIATED.....
Thank you! I try to keep it simple. Sometimes details get in the way. I keep trying to improve. Thanks for your feedback!
Really a good video, very instructive and complete in the audio portion too. I am going to build a a router table on one of my wings also. I found this very helpful. Thank you, Richard
Thank you!
I just finished adding the same upgrade to my Ridgid table saw… Except that I cut my existing Freud router tabletop and reused it instead of making a whole other router tabletop. It does fall a little short of the end of the table saw’s rails of course… but a will next extend the repurposed Freud router tabletop by installing a 6-inch deep cabinet with tip-out shelves for router bit storage and router accessories. The main advantage of doing it this way is the savings in time and material but also that I get to continue to use the original miter gauge track AND all of the original properly positioned threaded inserts are available if I wish to the use the original dust-extracting fence!
Thank you! Glad that helped.
Amazing. That is definitely an engineering mind at work. You thought of everything sir. Very informative. Thanks for sharing your tallents. Keep up the good work Gary!
Thank you!
Beautiful! Appreciate the attention to detail and clear, simple explanations.
Thank you!
Most excellent video Gary! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it.
WoW. This was way better and in greater detail than what I was expecting. Well done sir.
Thank you!
Fantastic! I will be coming back to this to try to do the same thing. I see you like to use T tracks a lot. And I can see why. Thank you very much for sharing! 👏👏👏👏👏
Thank you!
I don't know what prompted me to click on this video nor why I watched the entire thing. I don't have this table saw nor do I have any plans to make a router table insert for my table saw or make a new router table. In short, the topic of this video was totally irrelevant to me. Still, it turned out to be highly informative just to watch how Gary approached the problem as well as how to process MDF and the laminate. Just goes to show that it can be well worth your while to watch any good craftsman perform his craft.
Thank you!
Excellent job. I like your approach of supporting the table from the underside.. I will be looking to make one of these in the near future.
Thank you!
Great video. Thank you for sharing this step-by-step build without sending viewers to a website to buy your plans. Also, just a suggestion... When I need to fill something like that MDF edge, I use an all-purpose filler. Bondo makes their same auto-body filler for other uses like home repair. Most home improvement stores carry it. When it cures, it's incredibly strong, sandable, and water resistant.
Thank you! Thanks for the tip on filling in edges on MDF! 👍
some wonderful ideas here - been thinking about putting a panel down on the open wing, and then a cart underneath the wing for tools and mitre gages, etc. this was very helpful
Thanks for watching! 👍
Very good build, I am inspired to do the same build. You laid it out very clear and concise. Thank you for your service and video.
Thank you!
Great audio, video, and content! Thanks Gary!
Thank you!
well organized, clear, concise...nice job!
Thank you!
Nicely done. I like the uncommon laminate color as well. Got some good ideas from you. Thank you.
Thank you! Glad you got something from it. The laminate I got was a return so I got it for 1/2 price at Lowes, and my military discount. In the shop I'm not as fussy, it was not ugly, so it was good enough for me. 👍😀
Nice, well thought out video. Your style of presentation is very relaxed and yet keeps the3 viewer engaged. Great little tips that most people wouldn't think of. Thanks
Thank you!
My god, during the entire video I expected you to start yelling at Donny and telling him he is out of his element! Great job on table Mr. Goodman, er Lundgren.
Thank you!
Mark it zero!
Awesome job fantastic tutorial to follow...well done. Thanks
Thank you!
I don't think I can do half as nice job as yours, but I thoroughly enjoyed the build.
Thank you! I think you can do it just the same.
Hey Gary,
Nice job. I did a quick version of this on my Ridgid a year back. I'm using what you did as a much better guide for what I did. I was thinking of ditching the metal stamped wing and going straight to the cast iron. I'm not a big fan of the stamped wings although they work fine.
Thanks again,
Ken
Thank you! I had thought of eliminating that wing also, but wanted the dual track to extend beyond the rails to be sure I had clearance. Clearance the rails would have been close. Making a full table would have made for a bigger and heavier router table. Thanks!
Thanks again Gary. The tools and jigs AND shop adjustments never end! :)
I'm not sure I understand what you mean. I know making the router table longer would have made it heavier but I'm not understanding why you didn't want to remove the gray wing and run the new router table all the way to the cast iron top.
Excellent video and process. Your an inspiration. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you!
That was a great build, Gary! I found your channel searching for router tables for the Ridgid R4512, as I'm about to pick one up, and I already have a Bosch router, but no table.
Thanks for the great inspiration!
Awesome, thank you! See how I added a Dust Bucket to this at ruclips.net/video/fVbtPFgQsx8/видео.html
Gotta drink every time he says “here.” Seriously though, like the idea.
Thanks! Yep, always have some words I'd like to eliminate from my vocabulary. Another is "so". 😀 Thanks!
This has got to be the most detailed video on ANY subject I"ve ever watched and I"ve watched a ton on videos on here. Great job Sir. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Now how much would you charge me to build the same table? LOL
Thank you! I have been asked to make these before. The problem is that you can buy a cast iron one online (perhaps a bit heavy) for the same or less than what I would charge, plus shipping.You could be looking at a total of $400+ with me. I did the video so woodworkers can build their own and save a lot of money if just buying materials. No labor charges. One can fine tune the leveling on their own. Thanks!!
I just bought the same saw and am so very happy with it. Glad I spent the extra money on it
Thank you!
Gary, this is fantastic. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and great ideas. I'm very inspired and I learned a ton!
Thank you!
Impressive Gary! Thanks for sharing. I'm now inspired to do the same on my Delta contractor saw.
Thank you!
Very interesting and complete video on your project that I believe is very good.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it. 👍
Thanks Gary,Novice here and want to build a router table and add my craftsman router to my Rigid saw. Thanks for the video.
Thank you!
Really nice job. Great job explaining and executing.
Thanks for watching!
Hi Gary, no I am from the Faroe Islands, it is in between Scotland and Iceland, we are an autonomous party of Denmark, just as Greenland is an autonomous party of Denmark. So the Danish state is Denmark, the Faroe Islands and Greenland. The Faroe Islands have previously belonged to Norway.
Yes The Swedes are good craftsmen and are good boatbuilders, you know that the Swedish steel is known in the world for its good quality.
There are many Scandinavians moved to the United States, it has been very good for the American state, many wise and good builders and sailors from the Nordic countries have riched the United States and it is very good.
Kind regards
Oli Poulsen.
Nice job, Gary! I have this same saw, and can't wait to make one of my own! Thanks !!
Thank you!
Gary--wonderful presentation; you add a nice bit of humor to boot (whether you knew it or not), and so it was for me, very much enjoyable; I'm sure you and I will get along digitally, just famously! As of my post here, I have spent the past week researching which router and lift to purchase, which table saw to purchase, and as I'm coming from an ancient Craftsman, also what kind of fence system I might want to employ. I'm with you on the choice of router, on the lift, and on the saw. However, I intend to employ the Incra fence which as I understand it, will make it very much easier to include a single-fence system allowing for 1/32" repeatable machining; used both for the table saw as well as router. And then as I found, the Incra fence system does adapt for the use of a single 3/4" extension; and all of it attaches to the Incra rails just as you have done--brilliant! Much thanks; informative. Can't wait to get started!
Thank you! Someday when I can afford it, I'd love to get an Incra fence. Much more capabilities. Thanks!
Like the laminated top gives it clean classy look 👍
Thank you!
I agree with Steve. Great video. I have the same saw and you have provided many good ideas for which I will getting to work on soon. Thank you.
Thank you!
I enjoyed your video and found it to be very useful. Nice engineering work...thanks
Thank you!
Awesome Gary. Thank you for sharing, I learned a lot!
Thank you!
Easy to understand video. Thanks for making it.
Thank you!
Very nicely done video. Gave me some ideas for my table saw/ router table space sawing setup.
Thank you!
Awesome video Gary. Very well done!
Thank you!
This guy is a great woodworker
Thank you!
Nice router table added to your Ridged table saw. just got my table saw R4512
want to do something like that to mine. thanks for sharing.
got my sub...
Thank you! Hope you enjoy your table saw.
Looks great sir, I'm looking into getting a table saw , not sure which one yet maybe the Ridgid R4512 or the JET Proshop! Both have good reviews, but the Ridgid is considerably less expensive! I love your design for the router table in extension wing , it's just simply brilliant!!👍😀
Thank you! I like the Ridgid table saw. It is stable, solid, and has all the options I'm aware of. What they don't have, we make a jig for that. I like that the Ridgid has all those T-slots on the rails and fences. That makes for a lot of adaptability. I used the T-slots on the back rail for mounting an outfeed table. (see my video on that.) I don't know that other saws have that.
Great job, and great ideas. I plan to adapt some of your ideas to my table.
Thank you!
Very nice. I have a Menard's Master Force professional Contractor saw which is almost identical to the Ridgid Hybrid Cabinet Saw that you have. This is an awesome idea and I will have to try it on my saw.👍
Thank you!
Nice design, I like it. Now, i just have to start saving pennies for MDF and T-tracks! Thanks for the great step-by-step tutorial showing us what you did. It looks like it turned out great; hopefully it works as well. Let us know if you thought about any ways to improve the design after using it a while.
Thank you!
Great job. I am a novice but looking to do something similar in my new jet table saw
Thank you!
Very nice job. I’ve been looking at buying a cast iron wing to fit my Craftsman contractor saw. I had an aluminum one but the slots for bolting it to the table cracked and could never keep it level. You sir have convinced me to build my own.
Thank you!
Very nice. Beautiful work!
Thank you!
Great video , well explained.
Thank you! Hope you got the inspiration.
Yes, very nice work and video, thank you! And good experience - how it can be done!!
Thank you!
I’ll be getting my new R4512 next week and I’m trying to decide if I want to purchase a router extension or build one. Well after watching thus I thunk if I can muster up the courage I just may. Very nice
Thank you! Good luck with yours. You can do it. Building it it much cheaper than buying, and you get to make it the way you like it. Also, maybe learn some new skills. Thanks!
The manual for the saw has a section on how to make the insert so it's certainly worth a try. I'm going to do it when I get mine in a week or two (tax return, baby!)
very nice. i have a Ridgid saw also, and you gave me some great ideas.. thanks again
Thank you!
Goodness, that's slick and looks great!
Thank you!
Nice job. I'm a little concerned about mounting the heavy table to the underside of the fence. Any problems with deforming the tracks?
Thanks for watching! I have not experienced any sag in the rails. It was a concern. I used a straight edge to check it. It holds up well. But I don't do any heavy work on my router table. Not making furniture. Thanks! 👍
Great project and video. Congratulations!
Thank you very much!
awsome, thanks for sharing
Thank You!
Love it. Great craftsmanship.
Thank you!
Two thumbs up Gary - great video an great plan!
Thank you!
I have the identical saw but with the Craftsman label on it. I'm going to see if I have that same t track on mine. I have been thinking of building a whole cabinet for my saw. I have a great router table now that I bought in Canada it looks like a piece of furniture but it would be nice to have a second one set up for round overs. Very nice job and it was wise of you to paint the bare MDF because it will soak up moisture as the years go by.
Thank you!
Parabéns..., Ficou excelente, seu projeto é MUITO funcional, ajuda otimizar os espaços e traz organização! Obrigado
Abraço aqui do Brasil 🇧🇷
Obrigado!
Excellent video and craftsmanship. You could sell that as a kit.
Thank you! I did have an inquiry to make one. After figuring costs and shipping, it is cheaper to buy one of those cast iron tables from www.mlcswoodworking.com. With mass production they can do it cheaper. What I did is for the DIY'r to save $$. Thanks for the encouragement!
Nice job, I enjoyed watching this.
Thank you!
Nice work Gary!
Thank you!
Great build! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you!
Excellent video thanks from Mexico
Thank you! Gracias Amigo!
Excellent job. I plan to do a similar thing with my Ridgid model R45171. It's a down market version of your R4512 so it's not built the same with the same dimensions. However, my MDF sheet fits perfectly between the edge of the table and the edge of the extended part and sits perfectly on the existing rails. I plan to drill holes in the ends of the MDF and the edges of the table and extension to fit steel dowels and trap the MDF in the gap between the extension and the edge of the table and align it perfectly.
Thank you!
Let me know how that works out. Thats the same saw i plan to get soon
It worked great! I used a Triton router (either model will work) mainly because you can install router bits without having to go underneath the table. I used a Kreg router table inserted into 3/4 inch MDF for the table. You align it sideways so that you can work by standing on the right hand end. If you unlock the table extension and extend it to the right as far as it can go, you can insert the appropriately cut MDF table, and it fits nicely when you lock it in that position. You will have to cut a rabbet under the far side of the MDF so that it rests on the extension tracking, making sure the top surface of the router table is flush with the existing saw table.. I drilled two dowel holes on the inside face of the extension and inserted dowels in the ends of the MDF so that, when the extension is pressed to the ends of the MDF it locks it in place. The great thing is you can revert back to the untouched table saw at any time by just removing the MDF router table. All this sounds difficult to write, but it worked extremely well. Come back if you want anything clarified.
@@dacutler as soon as i get it Ill be writing lol thanks. I was hoping i could do this with that saw. The rails look a little skimpy to put much weight on. Do you remove it when not in use ? Amd I'm guessing you dont use it much for any significant amount of weight
Actually, I don't remove the router, but mainly because it doesn't restrict the use of the table saw, which I use a lot. In fact the existence of the router table doesn't affect the use of the saw when working to the left of the fence (which for me is 99.999% of the time!) because if you remove the router fence (which I modified from the old router I had) the fact that the router table is flush with the rest of the table means it might as well not be there at all as it doesn't get in the way of the normal actions of the table saw. It has all worked out much better than I hoped! Incidentally, I fitted the switch for the router on the right hand end of the table (in other words right in front of you when using the router) which is perfectly positioned for safety. I modified the on/off switch from my old router table and attached it to the extreme right had end of the extended table by drilling two holes in the end.. I have fitted two T tracks to r=each side of the router hole to handle the router fence, and another T track in front of the hole to handle a box cutter sled I have and feathers if needed. The rails are easily strong enough to support the heavy router and any work, mainly because the fit between the two faces of the extended table is so good, and the whole of the extension is evenly handling all the weight. It's not an issue
Hey Gary. Love the design of the top of the router table. It's completely different to any other table i've seen on here. Well done man. I only found ur channel this morning so I subscribed and liked the video too.
I'm kind of going through the building of a small router table myself atm. I like the idea of having my own router table but I'm not so hot on one at the side of my table saw. TBF I don't have a saw like ur RIGID. I tried to get one here in IRELAND but they will not ship here and u cannot get them here either. I need to check the UK to see if they stock them anywhere so I might be able to get one. How powerful a sw is it?? HP I mean?
I'm about to attempt a table saw build of my own soon. I'm going to buy a 3HP motor for it too. I like the idea of the belt and pulley system instead of those hard start motors due to the noise they make. It's like a gun shot from a sawn off shotgun or a bus back firing.. LOL
KJeepup the great work pal and I will be looking into more of ur content soon.. Take care man
Thanks for the detail--Ace or a larger True Value supplies t-nuts/ "tugger" bolts in their hardware kits--might take some stress off the mount t-track, comes in std nominal sizing.
Thank you! Thanks for the tip! 👍
Great instructional video on what I need. Is the table just sitting on the supports and not secured to the rails?
Thank you! I attached mine to the supports I made for the router table so it won't slip around or move. I may have mentioned in the video I was going to do that. I'll have to check on that. Unfortunately, I don't know if RUclips allows me to upload pics as addendums of what I did as an after note. But I'll put the pic on my web site and give a link here. glcrafts.com/images/ImgHowRtrTableFastened2Spts.jpg
It looks awesome, thanks for the great video
Thank you!
Very nice!
I would extend that router table right to the cast iron table and use the existing bolts to hold it in and make that router table permanent.
Those stamped metal extensions are cheap and not true so replacing those with a full length melamine would be ideal.
Thank you. I would agree with that. That may be my next modification to this. Thanks!
Thanks Gary very informative.
Thank you!
Hi excellent video, would you recommend the R4512 table saw?
Thank you! Yes, I do like this saw. It seems to be quite popular among woodworkers. Great performance, great price. I like the adaptability with all the T-tracks it provides. Makes it jig friendly. I'm impressed given this came from a big box store geared more towards the construction industry than home woodworkers.
fantastic, great job!
Thank you!
I noticed your saw did not throw much dust up from the blade. How did you prevent that? Mine blows dust everywhere even with a 1 1/2 HP dust collector. Great router top by the way. I love it.
Thank you. I do have a 4" dust collection hose connected to the bottom of the tablesaw. It has a port down there. I use the Rockler Dust Right wall mounted collector item#42400.
Nicely done sir. Going to try this myself.
Thank you!
Great Video, thanks for sharing!
Thank you!