Nice photos. I love Ektar. It is my favorite film. I love saturated film and I do use it on people. The reason I schoot film is for the unpredictable quirky results. I schott portra 800 once. Just once. It was indoors. I was photographing a band and the curtains on the stage were red and the musicians had red shirts on. It was so saturated the reds I was in awe. Loved the results. I have 2 rolls unused yet. Kodak pro image is another favorite. I schott some of my best work with it. I always cross process my slide film. I have a fridge full of expired film. Rumor hast it Fuji film is rebranded ultramax and Gold. If it says made in the USA it is likely Kodak.
I really enjoy your video's. Good vibes, great explanations and to the point. My dad used to shoot Kodak Gold 400 with his Olympus Muji. I am still working my way through the more inexpensive filmstock. Mostly B&W. But I tried Harman Phoenix and absolutely adored it. Crazy stuff. Hope you will make a video about B&W filmstock too. Looking forward to part 2 of the Rolleiflex camera. That is one gorgeous camera you found.
I have to agree that Ektachrome, at least the older versions were cooler toned. I once picked Ektachrome specifically to shoot when I went to play in the snow and specifically wanted a cold feel to the shots. Got them, too. Oh, and I did shoot it with my SRT-101……
I really like this video. This is the best to information you get from the company and from an experience photographer. Thank you! Please do other videos like this one and keep doing what you do
Your missed the four Kodak color Vision3 films, available in 35mm cartridges en good film labs (in Europe) have the ECN-2 development process also available. Hollywood saved KODAK not for nothing by ordering these films for their movies, when they financial problems.
@@ReaonKaufman Correct, Kodak doesn’t, but other companies does. Here in Europe we have as example a company Silbersalz35 (Germany) repackaging the Kodak movie films (50D, 250D, 200T and 500T) into 35mm cartridges and offer ECN2 processing and negative scanning. Other development/scanning labs also introduced ECN2 capability recently. All you need to photograph these superb films with your analogue 35mm camera. Look around they may be a local company to offer this service also.
@@ReaonKaufman Kodak sell Vision3 Movie film but in bulk packages. Other companies like Silbersalz35 repackaged this film into 35mm cartridges for the amateur/professional film photographer. They also offer film processing with the Kodak ECN2 process, as also scanning of the negative with professional scanners. So these four color negatives Vision3 50D, 250D, 200T and 500T are also available for photographers.
I think homie is well aware they exist and in this case of this video, referring to only photographic film stocks offically sold by Kodak. So not recanned motion picture, although those are nice films if you want full control over your film and process.
@@dontshootphotos3372 nobody could of said it better, appreciate helping getting the point across. @alberte58 Cinestill one of my favorite companies here in the states that do that, but they take out the remjet layer, so you can do regular C-41 processing since most labs here don’t do ECN-2
I wonder when you said correct exposure or 1/2 stop over, what metering approach were you referring to (to shadow/highlight/whole scene)? In high contrasty scene, for example backlit or half shadow half light, how we meter makes huge different exposure. 🤔
Its really scene dependent but...meter for highlights and over expose. This is because most film stocks will still retain highlight information when over exposed and since its over exposed the shadows will have less of a chance of being "muddy" from underexposure.
Most point & shoots from the '80s and early '90s would cover your needs in the beginning. If you really want to learn, get yourself a cheap '60s-'70s rangefinder and a light meter app, and take your time composing photos, and experimenting with the settings. From my experience, it's one of the best ways to learn how things work.
Any chance you can go over how you scan and convert your negatives? I’ve recently gotten into film and just tried scanning my negatives for the first time with a mirrorless. After inverting the levels in photoshop, as well as trying it in Lightroom, I can’t get past an extremely strong blue cast. This is with 200 Gold and 400 Ultramax. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks for the great videos and getting me away from fairly affordable digital photography and into the money pit that is film.
Unfortunately there are some extra steps to this. Here's a quick step-by-step checklist: 1. Set-up your space to have consistent lighting 2. Load the film in the holder with the emulsion side facing the lens. You can flip the image later 3. Set the white balance to a fixed setting, nothing auto. Ideally you would set it to K5500 or set the surface for a custom white balance 4. Take test shots with a slide from the roll of film you want to scan that contains both highlights and shadows, and set the settings manually 5. Start with a wide open aperture and stop down to F8 after you have nailed focus 6. Make sure camera is steady at all times. Make sure that it also is level, as well as the film plane, and shoot with a short timer or a remote control 7. When changing films, go back to #4 8. When in Lightroom, select the outside of a frame with the White Balance tool, to set the remove the orange hue, which will turn blue when inverting 9. Crop your slides to the correct size. It will help with evaluating color accuracy later 10. Invert your slide from the Tone Curve panel 11. If the colours look off at this point, start playing with the white balance, in order to adjusts the cast. Remember that different films have different flavours, so try to not overdo it 12. Adjust global dark and white levels, in order to have a full histogram 13. If things look good enough, copy and paste settings to all of the other slides 14. Adjust each slide individually according to taste and expectations 15. Take notes of everything you do, in order to take better photos next time, and spend less time post-processing
Dude! You think Ektachrome film is tough to shoot with...I used to shoot with Kodachrome 64 & even sometimes Kodachrome 25 back in the stone age. Now that's a challenge!
Lomography 800 is repackaged Kodak Gold 800. Gold 800 is also available in disposable cameras. I know that doesn’t make it “readily available” but it is out there
Aurora 800 is also Gold 800 apparently. I personally prefer buying Flic Film over Lomography for some reason even though it’s the same repackaged stocks.
@@PooMonkeyMan yeah it is. at my camera store it ends up being like a buck or two cheaper to buy the three packs of Lomo 800 over three Aurora 800. but Aurora 800 is available in single rolls. so it depends if i wanna stock up or not on which one i get
If you enjoyed this video and found it informative, drop a like and subscribe! Also comment your questions down below!
Olympus Stylus and Kodak Gold 200... 90s dad photographer go to.
Nice photos. I love Ektar. It is my favorite film. I love saturated film and I do use it on people. The reason I schoot film is for the unpredictable quirky results. I schott portra 800 once. Just once. It was indoors. I was photographing a band and the curtains on the stage were red and the musicians had red shirts on. It was so saturated the reds I was in awe. Loved the results. I have 2 rolls unused yet. Kodak pro image is another favorite. I schott some of my best work with it. I always cross process my slide film. I have a fridge full of expired film. Rumor hast it Fuji film is rebranded ultramax and Gold. If it says made in the USA it is likely Kodak.
I really enjoy your video's. Good vibes, great explanations and to the point. My dad used to shoot Kodak Gold 400 with his Olympus Muji. I am still working my way through the more inexpensive filmstock. Mostly B&W. But I tried Harman Phoenix and absolutely adored it. Crazy stuff. Hope you will make a video about B&W filmstock too. Looking forward to part 2 of the Rolleiflex camera. That is one gorgeous camera you found.
This was a helpful video. Thank you!
I have to agree that Ektachrome, at least the older versions were cooler toned. I once picked Ektachrome specifically to shoot when I went to play in the snow and specifically wanted a cold feel to the shots. Got them, too.
Oh, and I did shoot it with my SRT-101……
I really like this video. This is the best to information you get from the company and from an experience photographer. Thank you! Please do other videos like this one and keep doing what you do
Your missed the four Kodak color Vision3 films, available in 35mm cartridges en good film labs (in Europe) have the ECN-2 development process also available. Hollywood saved KODAK not for nothing by ordering these films for their movies, when they financial problems.
He probably left them out, because Kodak don’t sell motion picture film to shoot in 35mm film photography.
@@ReaonKaufman Correct, Kodak doesn’t, but other companies does. Here in Europe we have as example a company Silbersalz35 (Germany) repackaging the Kodak movie films (50D, 250D, 200T and 500T) into 35mm cartridges and offer ECN2 processing and negative scanning. Other development/scanning labs also introduced ECN2 capability recently. All you need to photograph these superb films with your analogue 35mm camera. Look around they may be a local company to offer this service also.
@@ReaonKaufman Kodak sell Vision3 Movie film but in bulk packages. Other companies like Silbersalz35 repackaged this film into 35mm cartridges for the amateur/professional film photographer. They also offer film processing with the Kodak ECN2 process, as also scanning of the negative with professional scanners. So these four color negatives Vision3 50D, 250D, 200T and 500T are also available for photographers.
I think homie is well aware they exist and in this case of this video, referring to only photographic film stocks offically sold by Kodak. So not recanned motion picture, although those are nice films if you want full control over your film and process.
@@dontshootphotos3372 nobody could of said it better, appreciate helping getting the point across. @alberte58 Cinestill one of my favorite companies here in the states that do that, but they take out the remjet layer, so you can do regular C-41 processing since most labs here don’t do ECN-2
Great video, thank you for the information
I wish they did Ultramax in 120. The grain would be less noticeable.
Thank you for this. Super informative 😍
Thank you so much for this. Better understanding of the film stock!
I want Kodak Ektar 25, Kodak Gold 100 and Kodak Ektachrome professional 100S to be brought back. Both in 135 and 120mm. The old man had spoken...
Do it for Fuji too
dope video! ultramax/portra400 my go tos. Love the Sacramento shots, shouts out maries donuts! real ones know!
I wonder when you said correct exposure or 1/2 stop over, what metering approach were you referring to (to shadow/highlight/whole scene)? In high contrasty scene, for example backlit or half shadow half light, how we meter makes huge different exposure. 🤔
Its really scene dependent but...meter for highlights and over expose. This is because most film stocks will still retain highlight information when over exposed and since its over exposed the shadows will have less of a chance of being "muddy" from underexposure.
Portra 400 and gold are my favorites at the moment!
Dope vid , now I just need to know what camera to buy as a starter , something that will make my friends say “wow your camera takes nice pictures “ 🙃
Most point & shoots from the '80s and early '90s would cover your needs in the beginning. If you really want to learn, get yourself a cheap '60s-'70s rangefinder and a light meter app, and take your time composing photos, and experimenting with the settings. From my experience, it's one of the best ways to learn how things work.
Any chance you can go over how you scan and convert your negatives? I’ve recently gotten into film and just tried scanning my negatives for the first time with a mirrorless. After inverting the levels in photoshop, as well as trying it in Lightroom, I can’t get past an extremely strong blue cast. This is with 200 Gold and 400 Ultramax. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks for the great videos and getting me away from fairly affordable digital photography and into the money pit that is film.
Unfortunately there are some extra steps to this. Here's a quick step-by-step checklist:
1. Set-up your space to have consistent lighting
2. Load the film in the holder with the emulsion side facing the lens. You can flip the image later
3. Set the white balance to a fixed setting, nothing auto. Ideally you would set it to K5500 or set the surface for a custom white balance
4. Take test shots with a slide from the roll of film you want to scan that contains both highlights and shadows, and set the settings manually
5. Start with a wide open aperture and stop down to F8 after you have nailed focus
6. Make sure camera is steady at all times. Make sure that it also is level, as well as the film plane, and shoot with a short timer or a remote control
7. When changing films, go back to #4
8. When in Lightroom, select the outside of a frame with the White Balance tool, to set the remove the orange hue, which will turn blue when inverting
9. Crop your slides to the correct size. It will help with evaluating color accuracy later
10. Invert your slide from the Tone Curve panel
11. If the colours look off at this point, start playing with the white balance, in order to adjusts the cast. Remember that different films have different flavours, so try to not overdo it
12. Adjust global dark and white levels, in order to have a full histogram
13. If things look good enough, copy and paste settings to all of the other slides
14. Adjust each slide individually according to taste and expectations
15. Take notes of everything you do, in order to take better photos next time, and spend less time post-processing
When you over expose Portra 160 at 100, do you still develop it as if it was 160?
Dude! You think Ektachrome film is tough to shoot with...I used to shoot with Kodachrome 64 & even sometimes Kodachrome 25 back in the stone age. Now that's a challenge!
You left out the best Kodak Film stock. Vision 3.
What about Kodak gold 400??
ektar portraits are great for darker skinned people esp if they have a red undertone
Nice
Lomography 800 is repackaged Kodak Gold 800. Gold 800 is also available in disposable cameras. I know that doesn’t make it “readily available” but it is out there
Aurora 800 is also Gold 800 apparently. I personally prefer buying Flic Film over Lomography for some reason even though it’s the same repackaged stocks.
@@PooMonkeyMan yeah it is. at my camera store it ends up being like a buck or two cheaper to buy the three packs of Lomo 800 over three Aurora 800. but Aurora 800 is available in single rolls. so it depends if i wanna stock up or not on which one i get
Aurora 800 def isn’t available as widely as Lomo 800 and even Lomo can be a bit tough to find
0:23 What camera and film was used for this photo? It's so vibrant
Pentax 67 + Portra 400!
@@KingJvpes Thank you!
ANd black and white
Fuji color negative guide:
Refer to Kodak Gold
People sleep on Pro Image 100.
lol kodacolor and colorplus is the same film
Yep, that's what he said
Ultramax is the poorman's portra 400 lol! And it still is expensive.
And then there's the poorman's ultramax 400, which is the fuji 400.
Ultra max and Fuji 400 are the same film and cost about the same . 9-10$ per roll unless you buy a 3 pack which is cheaper.