How could Porsche get this so WRONG! The Coolant Vent Tubing Story & the EASY FIX... Macan 1st GEN
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- Опубликовано: 6 окт 2024
- In this video, I take a proactive action to replace the coolant vent tubing which is a known point of failure in the Porsche Macan 1st GEN. The vent tubing is routed through the center of the engine under the intake manifold, and exposed to significant heat. Then it routes through the rear of the engine, then back to the left side of the engine ending in a connection to the coolant vent valve attached to the left air intake filter housing. This is a very odd design and one that will guarantee this tubing failure (as it becomes brittle and ruptures, releasing coolant all over the engine and draining the coolant from the engine). In addition, to replace this tubing, one needs to remove many components, including the intake manifold.
This failure can happen at any given time and it could be catastrophic, or at a minimum, leave you stranded.
Thanks to a member of the Macan forum, he study this tubing route and realized that there could be a better and less intrusive/invasive way to connect the vent to the vent valve through the front of the engine with stronger and more resistant hoses.
RELEVANT LINKS:
Coolant Vent Tubing (OEM P/N): 94610602660
Stainless Steel Tee Fitting: a.co/d/gVKOf4l
Silicone Hose (reinforced): a.co/d/886TkCh
oetiker clamp kit: a.co/d/3nzHkfM
If you like to see the engine diagram that shows the vent line route, demonstrating that this line doesn’t connect anywhere else, please see link (post # 257): www.macanforum.com/threads/coolant-hose-under-the-intake-diy-procedure-included.173262/page-13?post_id=2793349#post-2793349
The 95.1b platform gets stronger and stronger with these videos. Amazing and informative as always.
Thanks! Your comments are much appreciated.
how dare u question the "guru's" at porsche and second guess their design...... they get paid huge dollars to design these perfect machines all for people like you to rearrange their work??? Good Job!! 🤠
😂🤣. I was expecting that you showed up with a nice comment like this and make me laugh…. Thanks for keeping us going!
Tip to insert bolts like that. attach the bolt to the socket with some masking tape , it will not fall off until you are done
@@kobie451 Good tip. I had my good old magnet, but for those of you who don’t have a magnet, this is a great suggestion.
Thanks for this video Santirx! My vent tube failed at 60K miles. Saved myself ~$2K with this solution.
Great to hear!
The OE coolant vent pipe lasts on average 50-60K miles in my experience, maybe longer. I just replaced mine and it took about 2 hours all said and done. I like your DIYs but not sure if I like this one. Every 50-60K miles its not a bad idea to clean the intake manifold and inspect valves for carbon deposits anyways so I think I will keep with the factory design and replacement. But nice video!
Just curious, how bad was the carbon build up on your valves at 50k?
Mine looked OK at 140K miles. But it is a bad design and I didn’t want to continue to take the risk. Why keep replacing it when you can solve it for good. That won’t prevent you from taking the intake plenum out to clean the valves. As a matter of fact, there are less components you will need to take out just for valve cleaning. But, I totally respect your decision… Are you seeing a lot of carbon deposits at 60K miles? A solution for your carbon deposits is installing a meth injection system, to not only gain performance, but also to keep the valves clean. I’m planning on taking out the intake plenum over the summer to clean valves and potentially install a meth injection system. Thanks for watching and for your support!
@@holdenholden8414 at 110K, my valves looked disgusting. So I figured id do it again in 50K miles or atleast inspect.
Very good job Santrix! In the end of the video, removing of the short hose is it only of checking?!
@@sveTli0oo removal of that hose (towards the end of the video) is optional. I didn’t want that hose dangling there.
NICE JOB! love the DIY videos. Just did the billet sub-frame bushings. HUGE difference.
Thanks! Hey, thanks for sharing your experience with the subframe bushing inserts. They do make a whole lot of difference. I had to back track on the differential inserts as they were inducing cabin noise with the new subframe I installed, but the rest of the inserts are still in. Thanks for watching!
Nice work Santis.
@@jjeffrey6945 thanks! And thanks for your support.
I have the same coolant hose ready for this same job! Thanks Santirx!
There you go! You now can use my video as a guide…. Hope everything goes well.
Fantastic job my friend. I made something similar last week. Except instead of keeping the oem routing, I'm going to copy what you've done here. I love your videos
Thanks man! Also, thanks for your support.
Awesome time saver! Doing this on my car now!
@@JasonOBrienThinksHeCan Thanks… subscribe for more awesome content in the future!
Hello gentlemen, please excuse me. I would like to ask a question after watching your interesting video .becausei have the same issue witth my macan S 2014... my question is... does this hose have a specific function behind the engine? or the gearbox back there conduct water??? It's strange to me why the hose has to go so long to the engine and back again... i wish you can explain to me ... thank you... 🙏🏼
This is a vent line. Its function is not to transport coolant to parts of the engine or transmission, but vent excess pressure/coolant back into the vent valve and coolant reservoir. I inspected this line with a borescope and it goes from the front of the engine to the rear… it makes a left turn, goes to the left side of the engine, makes another left turn and then connects into the vent valve.
As far as a good explanation, I don’t have any. I have been driving my car for the past 1000 miles with no issues. Others that have done this have not had any issues either. If you are concerned, you can get a borescope (they are cheap in Amazon) and inspect the full line for yourself.
The Macan Forum member that discovered this and develop this repair method had disassembled the engine parts necessary to get full access (including removal of intake plenum). When he was about to replace the tubing, he inspected the full line and realized that it made this strange loop without connecting to anything else.
See my post here so that you can see engine diagrams showing the full vent route (post # 257): www.macanforum.com/threads/coolant-hose-under-the-intake-diy-procedure-included.173262/page-13?post_id=2793349#post-2793349
Another A1 video!
From an engineer, I really like the solution. Your use of silicon tubing will definitely last a very long time.
What are the torque spec on the 2 bolts? Thanks
Thanks. Torque is 9-10Nm.
Excellent DIY! This will help a lot of people
Thanks man! All the thanks go to Macan Forum member “dethbrd” who figured out this solution and shared it with us. I just implemented his solution in my Macan and documented it in video. I hope it actually helps a lot of people.
great video. thank you for sharing. I understand the cayenne gts and macan share the same motor. The 3.6 TT. Do you have any idea if this fix would also work for a 17 cayenne gts?
I didn’t know the Cayenne GTS shared same engine as the Macan, but looking at it, they in fact look identical. When you search for coolant vent parts on your Cayenne (I just did), you’ll find that your engine uses exactly the same tubing PN 94610602660. So, I would think you’d have the same issues. Hey, thanks for letting us know!
Holy crap that looks terrifying to work on.
Is not nearly ad bad when you compare the to the alternative…. Thanks for watching and your support.
Does that rear end pipe with that tough to reach to connector have to come off? I am having a hard time reaching that clip. I already clipped off the connector head to utilize with the new pipe. Thank you for the help and assistance.
It doesn't have to. come out. I would recommend that you cut the hose/tubing as much as you can get to, and secure the rest with a tie wrap. I just removed it so that it wasn't dangling and making sounds when hitting stuff. As long as you secure it, you will be fine.
Great video by the way and excellent diy. I will have to try this myself since mine cracked. Does anyone happen to know the part for the last hose and L shape head connector that connects to the three way valve? I agree it is better to use a new one then utilizing an old one. Thank you.
@@gohan51383 I haven’t been able to identify the part because this L-quick connect is part of a larger hose assembly. There are a bunch that look very similar in Amazon but I haven’t try them yet. Mine, which I took out of the old hose, is working well and holding. So I have no plans to change it, at least for now.
BTW… thanks for your kind words.
@@porscheDIY I will see if I can find the part and share the part number if I can find it. Im going to have to try this DIY now since my hose is split open and all the coolant leaked out. I am guessing it put my macan in limp mode and therefore I am unable to drive it now.
@@gohan51383 you can install the hose into the vent valve using a clamp for now… or you can try the old L-quick connect. And then if you find the right L-quick connect, you can do that later. Please share what you find here.
I examined the L-quick connect that I removed from the old hose and I’m reusing now, and all markings make reference to the plastic material and not a part number.
I had mine fail, the dealer cost to fix was around $1250 in 2023.
Thanks for sharing. Yes, $1,200 to $1,500 sounds like the right range for this repair… of course, you will need some tools, but provided you have most of them, this DIY should not cost more than $200 and about 1 hour of your time. Or, just have your Indy do it for you, it will probably be around $300. Thanks for watching! And for your support!
In AZ Porsche labor is $300 hour. Got a quote for complete brake service out of curiosity. $4200. DIY less than $800
@@slimp5041 OMG! $4,200 is outrageous. Yes, you’ll save a lot of money with DIY and brakes is really not difficult. If you get the brake kit from FCPEuro or ECS Tuning they have their lifetime warranty. I got new brake kit for my wife’s Volvo and returned the old brake pads and rotors I removed (which I previously got from them) and got a store credit for the full amount. Will do the same with my Macan. You’ll save even more by going that route.
What was your mileage when it failed? Thanks
I was wondering if you have any leads as to where you can buy the vent line fittings in aluminum (the ones going onto the engine block). Thanks!
I don’t. Not even the plastic ones. They have some lettering in the fitting, but after looking for that number, it only describes material number, not part number…We need to continue searching.
@@porscheDIY Hi great video could this be that part you guys are talking about?
@@carvallo00 Hi, did you meant to include a link? Very curious as to what you found…
PA66 GF6 is the material. The fittings I believe are used on many European cars and if I find a match before mine snap, I'll send you a message @@porscheDIY
Do you have the OD of the fitting?
Is it possible to use the old connection parts from the failed tube instead of taking these parts from a new tube?
@@ЮрийС-с4о If the tuning had failed, it is very possible that these old fittings are not reusable. If you are doing this preventively, then there is a possibility to reuse… you should replace the o-rings.
I dont get it. You bought the part and spent exact same time with clamping hoses you would spend with removing the manifold?!
This plastic tubes are almost in every engine and last at least 10 years. So you dont want to do this job in ten years again?!
The life of this tubing is determined by several factors… it lasted 10 years, probably more, in my specific case, but others were seeing very premature failures. Which leads me to believe that this follows more of a random failure pattern/model.
Since it is random, failure can’t be predicted, and hence we can’t say with any certainty that the expected life of this component is 10 years.
As far as the time it took to do this, there is no comparison. It takes a few hours to take everything you need to take out to replace this tubing per OEM and put everything back… as opposed to about 1 hour to fabricate and install the hose. Obviously I took longer because I was recording, repositioning the camera, explaining, etc… but with focus, this is less than 1 hour.
For both, you need to remove the air hose and throttle valve… just that with this mod that’s the only thing you need to remove… for OEM install you need to remove and reinstall a hundred other things…. It was worth it to me…
But, hey, you do what you want. I respect that. And BTW.. thanks for watching and your support…. It was a very good question!
Don't get me wrong, I like that you try to improve this thing. That's not a bad solution at all.
Btw would be a nice tutorial if you would remove the manifold :)
@@herrdr.ernsthaft1406 No issues. It was a good question. I will be removing the intake during the Summer. I want to see state of valves and clean them.
@@porscheDIYMine is also a 2015 and I am on 183k km. The factory pipe lasted at least 4 years as the year of manufacture is 2019. It broke last week so average lifespan based on my car is 4-5 years. Right side exploded in the bend. I chopped out the remnants and replaced with rubber hose to get it home. Left side cracked in the same area the next day so I replaced all of the plastic pipe with rubber hose and brass fittings. I didn't want to disturb the vac tank or high pressure fuel pipe so I cut the remaining plastic pipe in sections and fished it out. I then fed the rubber hose in via the rear and put some padding where the factory clip is on the metal bracket and ran the hose along the same route. Plenty of room under the secondary air pump. I used constant tension spring clamps to avoid twisting the fragile plastic fittings still in the cylinder heads and for simplicity of assembly in the cramped space