I get so involved with these videos that I find myself turning my eyes away from your welding. I feel like I've transported to your shop. Love the vids.
great job on all your videos man. this channel will ignite like wildfire, mark my words. another thing i want to compliment you on is acknowledging the mistake where the pipe was 1/4 too low. may be a weird compliment but it's a good one. with you breaking all of this down, i feel like i can finally do this on my own car. Great job man.
+imCapone1124 Someone suggested that I remove that part about the error, but I'd rather the viewer know they can go back and fix it if they found an error in their mockup. It's all part of the game. Thanks for watching!
+The Fabricator Yes it's more encouraging i feel. look at most people these days. they have a leak they think they can't do it themselves, they call a plumber. they have a clutch go out, they call a mechanic, any problem they have they think they need to call this imaginary superhero that has made no mistakes in his trade ever, or so they think. It's so crazy, like they never even think that person wasn't born a professional and regaurdless is still a human who makes mistakes also. In short, learning from mistakes and realizing they happen is a great thing. cheers and your welcome for watching.
Hey, I love your channel and videos, I'm gonna attempt at making my own rollbar/cage for my miata and was wondering exactly what material tubing you use!! Thanks for all your help!!!
+dusty mcelroy ALWAYS refer to the rules and regulations written by the sanction of which you will be building your roll bar or cage to. Drag, drift, time attack, rally, and off-road all have specifics to the style of cage that needs to be constructed. Chose your sanction and follow the specs and design outlines on the official rules.
Hi, I have just became aware of this great series of videos. really good work. I think the work is very educational. My question is - could you explain what advantage or reason is there to cut away the front end and rebuilding it in tube. thanks
I know this is a little dated video, but looking at a tube bender for my personal shop. I was on the JD2 website and looking at the Model 32 - when looking at the 2" die set, would you get the 6 .5" radius die or 7.5" one? Pros cons besides the obvious of a tighter bend radius? Thanks in advance, I'm a subscriber! Clay
I am looking to get into fab work as a hobby. I want to eventually do literally this exact thing on the same car (or '87 bmw e30 coupe, which ever I can get my hands on first) and just wondering how to chose a tube bender that would be right. I am looking at the woodward WFB2.
+Jordon Renn Ideally, you want one that is affordable, the correct type, and will allow the most sizes and CLR offered by the manufacturer. I use a JD2 Model 3 which is very similar to the Woodward. Of course you will want a bender made for tube (not pipe), and you may want to consider the amount of space you have. If you are limited on space, you might want a bender that mounts vertically rather than horizontally. Those are the basic things to look for.
Jordon Renn if you havent made a purchase, yet. The model 3 and 32 from JD2 have a much larger selection of dies. If you're looking for affordable quality, stop there, otherwise, you may be kick yourself because you need a 1.5×4.5 die in year and realize woodward doesn't have them. Food for thought. Cheers, Craven
Yet another awesome video man! One thing that has come to mind is weight... Do you think your adding any kind of sufficient weight to the front end going tubed, or is it roughly the same as the factory. Also, if you had to roughly guess how much material you used for the completed front end, that would help me ge ta base line of how much i would need for my build. Thanks ahead of time, and keep up the great work!!
+1dickycat The weight subtracted vs. the weight added is actually pretty close on this one. It's +/- 10 pounds at most. I sopped weighing it after the tubs and sheet metal because they are a little heavier than what was cut off. The strength of the front end, however, is dramatically increased. As far as a materials estimate is concerned, I used roughly 25-30 feet of 1.5" tubing (mix between DOM and ERW), about 10 feet of 1" tubing, and the rest is sheet metal. All of this varies from build to build. Some tube fronts use less than 10 feet of tubing all together and have no additional sheet metal, while others have more than twice the amount used here. When you decide on your design, a materials estimate can be created.
+1dickycat Never be sorry. You learn by asking, right? Thickness of any tubing is whatever you order it at. There are dozens of sizes to chose from. The type of material itself (ERW, DOM, CM) has certain strength properties for its size and thickness. Drawn Over Mandrel (DOM) tubing is stronger than Electronic Resistance Welded (ERW) tubing. Chromoly (CM) s stronger than both. I use DOM in high impact areas such as the lower bash bar and brackets since it will take more abuse (or load) before bending or deforming. There are a ton of really good online articles about types of metal and tubing. You can usually find them on metal distribution companies websites.
Very true. Ahh! OK, makes complete sense now, a lot simpler than i thought it was. So how thick of tubing did you use? I know I tend to over build things and end up with heavy projects, trying not to do that for this one.
Is there a reason you are not using DOM tubing for this area ? I was always told that any chassis work , needs to be done with DOM ..... (Now I am more into the Off Road builds but I figured it would be the same for any Comp style build ....
+Norman Murray Most of the structure remained forward of the strut towers, and none of the structure was removed rearward of the towers. With instances like this, there isn't much need for DOM. ERW is more than adequate. I generally say that full chassis, or anything between the strut towers should be DOM.
I get so involved with these videos that I find myself turning my eyes away from your welding. I feel like I've transported to your shop. Love the vids.
great job on all your videos man. this channel will ignite like wildfire, mark my words. another thing i want to compliment you on is acknowledging the mistake where the pipe was 1/4 too low. may be a weird compliment but it's a good one. with you breaking all of this down, i feel like i can finally do this on my own car. Great job man.
+imCapone1124 Someone suggested that I remove that part about the error, but I'd rather the viewer know they can go back and fix it if they found an error in their mockup. It's all part of the game.
Thanks for watching!
+The Fabricator Yes it's more encouraging i feel. look at most people these days. they have a leak they think they can't do it themselves, they call a plumber. they have a clutch go out, they call a mechanic, any problem they have they think they need to call this imaginary superhero that has made no mistakes in his trade ever, or so they think. It's so crazy, like they never even think that person wasn't born a professional and regaurdless is still a human who makes mistakes also. In short, learning from mistakes and realizing they happen is a great thing. cheers and your welcome for watching.
Hands down clean crisp and beautiful great job
Thank you!
Hey, I love your channel and videos, I'm gonna attempt at making my own rollbar/cage for my miata and was wondering exactly what material tubing you use!! Thanks for all your help!!!
+dusty mcelroy ALWAYS refer to the rules and regulations written by the sanction of which you will be building your roll bar or cage to. Drag, drift, time attack, rally, and off-road all have specifics to the style of cage that needs to be constructed. Chose your sanction and follow the specs and design outlines on the official rules.
Hi, I have just became aware of this great series of videos. really good work.
I think the work is very educational.
My question is - could you explain what advantage or reason is there to cut away the front end and rebuilding it in tube.
thanks
+Charles Camenzuli He explains your exact question in part 1 of TFS.
+Charles Camenzuli He explains your exact question in part 1 of TFS.
Great videos, thanks for sharing your expirience!
+КолбасАвто Happy to do it. Thanks for watching.
I know this is a little dated video, but looking at a tube bender for my personal shop. I was on the JD2 website and looking at the Model 32 - when looking at the 2" die set, would you get the 6 .5" radius die or 7.5" one? Pros cons besides the obvious of a tighter bend radius? Thanks in advance, I'm a subscriber! Clay
I am looking to get into fab work as a hobby. I want to eventually do literally this exact thing on the same car (or '87 bmw e30 coupe, which ever I can get my hands on first) and just wondering how to chose a tube bender that would be right. I am looking at the woodward WFB2.
+Jordon Renn Ideally, you want one that is affordable, the correct type, and will allow the most sizes and CLR offered by the manufacturer. I use a JD2 Model 3 which is very similar to the Woodward. Of course you will want a bender made for tube (not pipe), and you may want to consider the amount of space you have. If you are limited on space, you might want a bender that mounts vertically rather than horizontally. Those are the basic things to look for.
Thank you for the reply! Looking forward to more videos.
Jordon Renn if you havent made a purchase, yet. The model 3 and 32 from JD2 have a much larger selection of dies. If you're looking for affordable quality, stop there, otherwise, you may be kick yourself because you need a 1.5×4.5 die in year and realize woodward doesn't have them. Food for thought.
Cheers,
Craven
great videos and thanks for sharing. Do you have your tube bender bolted into the floor?
Yes. I use female anchors so I can remove it as needed.
Yet another awesome video man! One thing that has come to mind is weight... Do you think your adding any kind of sufficient weight to the front end going tubed, or is it roughly the same as the factory. Also, if you had to roughly guess how much material you used for the completed front end, that would help me ge ta base line of how much i would need for my build. Thanks ahead of time, and keep up the great work!!
+1dickycat The weight subtracted vs. the weight added is actually pretty close on this one. It's +/- 10 pounds at most. I sopped weighing it after the tubs and sheet metal because they are a little heavier than what was cut off. The strength of the front end, however, is dramatically increased.
As far as a materials estimate is concerned, I used roughly 25-30 feet of 1.5" tubing (mix between DOM and ERW), about 10 feet of 1" tubing, and the rest is sheet metal. All of this varies from build to build. Some tube fronts use less than 10 feet of tubing all together and have no additional sheet metal, while others have more than twice the amount used here. When you decide on your design, a materials estimate can be created.
Sorry for my nubness,but how thick is DOM and ERW tubing?
+1dickycat Never be sorry. You learn by asking, right?
Thickness of any tubing is whatever you order it at. There are dozens of sizes to chose from.
The type of material itself (ERW, DOM, CM) has certain strength properties for its size and thickness. Drawn Over Mandrel (DOM) tubing is stronger than Electronic Resistance Welded (ERW) tubing. Chromoly (CM) s stronger than both. I use DOM in high impact areas such as the lower bash bar and brackets since it will take more abuse (or load) before bending or deforming. There are a ton of really good online articles about types of metal and tubing. You can usually find them on metal distribution companies websites.
Very true.
Ahh! OK, makes complete sense now, a lot simpler than i thought it was. So how thick of tubing did you use? I know I tend to over build things and end up with heavy projects, trying not to do that for this one.
Is there a reason you are not using DOM tubing for this area ? I was always told that any chassis work , needs to be done with DOM ..... (Now I am more into the Off Road builds but I figured it would be the same for any Comp style build ....
+Norman Murray Most of the structure remained forward of the strut towers, and none of the structure was removed rearward of the towers. With instances like this, there isn't much need for DOM. ERW is more than adequate. I generally say that full chassis, or anything between the strut towers should be DOM.
Thanks for the Clarification ......
Wow over 10k subs now. I knew this channel was gonna grow fast. #under1000subsclub
+The Scorpion I'm pretty impressed with how it is climbing in numbers. I'm just glad people find it worth watching.
Please come to Hoquiam WA and do this to my IS300 😭
GSR_ PsI8 Its cheaper if you ship your car to our shop in Vegas.