I was thinking a formed rectangular beam. It could be pretty wide, maybe 8", and about an inch thick. It could start pretty high up on the shock mount.
Have finally put together a decent sandblasting rig and powdercoating setup in my garage after seeing you and Devin powdercoating over the years. I've been debating building an oven somewhere around 7'x7'x7'. Would be really cool to see how you would build it, so people like me could try to replicate it. Keep up the great work :)
Can you not mount a bar half way up the rear shock mount kick it under the seat and back up to the same spot on the other side? Add two bar disconnect connectors like the front shock mounts and notch and weld it through the set bracket mounts. It would still let you remove the seat but give you the most support. It would gain you a support maybe 8-10" higher then the frame mounts? my $.02 Also freaking love the color of the roll cage!
I would swap the rubber body mounts for aluminum pucks. That rigid mounts the frame and body together, making it easy to attach the shock towers to the cage. That is how it is done on second gen F-bodies (I have one out in the garage like that).
Thanks, Austin! IMO using a sandblasting shop is the way to go. Before you bring it back into the shop though, make sure to blow it out a hundred times outside. It's amazing how much sand/media can be held in joints.
Looking for how the roll over frame is attached. Is it just through the sheet metal? I used a 1/4 x 6 “ backing plate the full length of the wheel wells. Aluminum because I don’t have the metal working shop you have. I just have the OEM frame. Elsewhere, For individual gauge panels I find aluminum is a whole lot easier to cut to fit the gauges and doesn’t oil can the way thin metal does. Just a thought
While other major RUclipsrs are teaching us how to clean our engine bay 🙂, Austin is building a car from scratch. The amount of value this channel adds is mind blowing.
Next time instead of going through the trouble of cutting and re-centering your body mounts for the roll cage, try getting a 4 ton porta power and spreading them back out, much easier, and a time saver, just make sure if you do this in the future to over bend slitley sonitnwill relax itself back in its normal postion. Ive been doing frame work for over 20yrs, teist me itll work and save you time. Remember, everything moves when heat is applied
Maybe do an integrated desing with a bar that ties both ahock towers and at the same timw functions as a head rest for the back passengers. That and a mount that's removable, similar to the one you made for the front, but that goes underneath the back seat. Btw I'm loving the project and I'm soo glad you went with the full resromod theme for this one, it's gona be a beast.
Between those two rear shock towers underneath the body can you put a crossmember that will stiffen up the frame from being able to twist from the force of the shocks
Terrific build If after all your added strength to the build & the beautiful cage, something bad was to happen on the trail & it was bad enough to destroy this cage, I am sorry but I don't believe you would need to worry about your future. You have thought about everything. Great job
It looks like it may be time to upgrade your oven with all you do. Look at the light armor 2x2x5. We use it for small batch work and all of our cerakoting as well. It's a legit oven.
Austin, I see you use Fusion to draw your parts. My table runs Mach 3. I'm having issues with my cut becoming angled on arcs, but fine in one axis. I've looked around, do you know of a way to slow feed rates on arcs? Love the build. My older brother had a FJ many decades ago but Ohio salt got the better of it.
in line with bracing the read shock mounts - you could remake the rear seat brackets to make the seat 2" taller to give you more room underneath for bracing? or maybe this reduces head room too much?
Have you thought about building a powder coating oven? I saw a video on RUclips recently of someone building one very economically. That would allow you to do a lot bigger stuff.
You may want to invest in sound deadener on the backside of the dashboard and i would also recommend some form of a enclosure for the dash speakers, speakers playing in free air sounds like shit…. Fj is looking awesome so far
I sure hope you are replacing the glass near where you did all that welding. FYI, weld spatter absolutely destroys glass. You embed particles in the glass surface and it will never be smooth again. Protect your glass please>
🎶 track? It’s *Champions* by *DonVayei* - and yes we are THRILLED to be your trusted provider. ruclips.net/video/C4fNkUkcKY8/видео.html // Epidemic Sound
I feel like you missed a great opportunity by not creating the rear seat frame as an integrated strut bar. Also, your front seat shoulder harness bar should be lowered. All racing regulations have this as a requirement. The shoulder straps should run up the back then roll over your shoulders down. This prevents torso movement in the vertical plane. Otherwise. Far better execution than my abilities currently. I am always encouraged by your willingness to just move forward and get it done. Keep it up!
@@austinniemela interesting! Maybe technology has changed and I haven’t kept up! Regardless, I have always enjoyed your work. I’ve been following along since the flatbed build.
Для каркаса надо использовать прочную нержавеющую сталь, а не водопроводные трубы. Разница в стоимости материала меньше 50 долларов. И экономия была бы на весе труб и покраска не нужна!!! 🙏🙏
You should run a bar under the rear seat to tie the 2 shock towers together and still run a bar behind it to add extra strength. It is a overkill.... better safe then sorry!!!
Why not take the cage to a powder coating shop with an oven large enough? Sorry but you missed the boat on that one, my apologies! I take every piece I can to a local powder coating shop and being i take so much to them they only charge me $8 per part unless it’s wheels or bicycle frames that I restore and flip.
Good Job again , Austin, you are Truly Master Fabricator !!=), Couple questions, I am a Finn, living in Lantana, South Florida, my Hometown in Finland, is at Arctic Circle, Rovaniemi. There is lots of Niemelas there, where is your parents, Grandparents from?? And, also, how is your Brother doing, hope well?? Keep it up, youtheman =)
Good afternoon, you are shooting interesting videos, unfortunately I do not know English very well, please make the subtitles in Russian available on your channel. In the channel settings, thank you. 😎
If I were you brother, I wouldn't even put a back seat in. You know, as well as I do, that no one will ever sit back there, and it will give you a lot of extra room for gear and tools
Could you Run a bar under the seat to tie the shock mounts together?
I was gonna say the same maybe like a square beam
I was thinking a formed rectangular beam. It could be pretty wide, maybe 8", and about an inch thick. It could start pretty high up on the shock mount.
Was just thinking of that exact thing☝️
Was thinking of the same thing.
just typed the same thing out, then read your comment. That is how I would handle reinforcing those rear shock mounts
Have finally put together a decent sandblasting rig and powdercoating setup in my garage after seeing you and Devin powdercoating over the years. I've been debating building an oven somewhere around 7'x7'x7'. Would be really cool to see how you would build it, so people like me could try to replicate it. Keep up the great work :)
The patience and quality on the build are mind boggling. Quite talented.
Can you not mount a bar half way up the rear shock mount kick it under the seat and back up to the same spot on the other side? Add two bar disconnect connectors like the front shock mounts and notch and weld it through the set bracket mounts. It would still let you remove the seat but give you the most support. It would gain you a support maybe 8-10" higher then the frame mounts? my $.02 Also freaking love the color of the roll cage!
Warming the paint up in a bucket of hot water may help it flow smoother
I would swap the rubber body mounts for aluminum pucks. That rigid mounts the frame and body together, making it easy to attach the shock towers to the cage. That is how it is done on second gen F-bodies (I have one out in the garage like that).
Austin, couldn't you go underneath the seat & cross side to side. Tower to tower and you could tie the seat belt center straps to it as well. my $.02
Thanks, Austin!
IMO using a sandblasting shop is the way to go. Before you bring it back into the shop though, make sure to blow it out a hundred times outside. It's amazing how much sand/media can be held in joints.
Looking for how the roll over frame is attached. Is it just through the sheet metal? I used a 1/4 x 6 “ backing plate the full length of the wheel wells. Aluminum because I don’t have the metal working shop you have. I just have the OEM frame. Elsewhere, For individual gauge panels I find aluminum is a whole lot easier to cut to fit the gauges and doesn’t oil can the way thin metal does. Just a thought
While other major RUclipsrs are teaching us how to clean our engine bay 🙂, Austin is building a car from scratch. The amount of value this channel adds is mind blowing.
What about a crossbar under seat?
That rear seat looks perfect, great work as always Austin
Thanks! It should do the job!!
Next time instead of going through the trouble of cutting and re-centering your body mounts for the roll cage, try getting a 4 ton porta power and spreading them back out, much easier, and a time saver, just make sure if you do this in the future to over bend slitley sonitnwill relax itself back in its normal postion. Ive been doing frame work for over 20yrs, teist me itll work and save you time. Remember, everything moves when heat is applied
Crane works and looks good... The rollcage turned out awesome!!! Keep up the awesome work on the FJ!!!
Thanks a bunch!
Maybe do an integrated desing with a bar that ties both ahock towers and at the same timw functions as a head rest for the back passengers. That and a mount that's removable, similar to the one you made for the front, but that goes underneath the back seat.
Btw I'm loving the project and I'm soo glad you went with the full resromod theme for this one, it's gona be a beast.
Austin you are a great car builder. Hats off to you.. Greetings from Italy
Between those two rear shock towers underneath the body can you put a crossmember that will stiffen up the frame from being able to twist from the force of the shocks
It’s got 2 crossmembers there!
Terrific build
If after all your added strength to the build & the beautiful cage, something bad was to happen on the trail & it was bad enough to destroy this cage, I am sorry but I don't believe you would need to worry about your future. You have thought about everything.
Great job
Thanks! Yeah it should hold up!
LOVE the shot of you drilling a hole with a respirator on and no safety glasses. Got your PPE mixed up there. LOL!
How do you like those front seats? Stuck between Corbeau's or Procar for my 80.
That centre console is very well made and looks the part. So fitting to the build. 👌🏻
The roll cage came out really f'n nice!
On your roll bar mounting pads, count you have used a portapower and spread out the feet to meet the holes? Awesome job!
It looks like it may be time to upgrade your oven with all you do. Look at the light armor 2x2x5. We use it for small batch work and all of our cerakoting as well. It's a legit oven.
Loving the FJ progress!
You could do gussets to the floor under the seat and tie the shock mounts together.
Run the top bar under the seat. Will strengthen it a TON.
You could mount the rear seats facing backwards as well.
Austin, I see you use Fusion to draw your parts. My table runs Mach 3. I'm having issues with my cut becoming angled on arcs, but fine in one axis. I've looked around, do you know of a way to slow feed rates on arcs? Love the build. My older brother had a FJ many decades ago but Ohio salt got the better of it.
I used that Seymour on my steering and actually picked some up as well for my cage I’m painting this weekend.
Eso es una maldita obra maestra cuando lo acabes…pff me encanta ver como va avanzando y como lo estás dejando,brutal tío
in line with bracing the read shock mounts - you could remake the rear seat brackets to make the seat 2" taller to give you more room underneath for bracing? or maybe this reduces head room too much?
As always, it’s looking incredible man. The attention to detail is top notch. You take the time to make things right and look good.
Have you thought about building a powder coating oven? I saw a video on RUclips recently of someone building one very economically. That would allow you to do a lot bigger stuff.
Maybe could design a quick release cross member for rear shock tower. Pop it on and off depending on whether there is going to be rear passenger.
I don't quite understand how to get into the back seats? There is a safety cage in the front and rear.
awsome build👏, whats your opinion about fenders for the back wheels?
You may want to invest in sound deadener on the backside of the dashboard and i would also recommend some form of a enclosure for the dash speakers, speakers playing in free air sounds like shit…. Fj is looking awesome so far
Old painters trick wet your floors. Not only does it trap dirt, but you can hose out the shop after painting.
I sure hope you are replacing the glass near where you did all that welding. FYI, weld spatter absolutely destroys glass. You embed particles in the glass surface and it will never be smooth again. Protect your glass please>
Dude!! Your work is flat legit! Beautiful work!
🎶 track? It’s *Champions* by *DonVayei* - and yes we are THRILLED to be your trusted provider.
ruclips.net/video/C4fNkUkcKY8/видео.html
// Epidemic Sound
Run the bar under the seat to brace the shock towers it’s high enough
I feel like you missed a great opportunity by not creating the rear seat frame as an integrated strut bar. Also, your front seat shoulder harness bar should be lowered. All racing regulations have this as a requirement. The shoulder straps should run up the back then roll over your shoulders down. This prevents torso movement in the vertical plane.
Otherwise. Far better execution than my abilities currently. I am always encouraged by your willingness to just move forward and get it done. Keep it up!
The upper straps should be 0-10 degrees, these are right about in the middle at 5 degrees down!
@@austinniemela interesting! Maybe technology has changed and I haven’t kept up! Regardless, I have always enjoyed your work. I’ve been following along since the flatbed build.
Put that bar under the rear seat. Even tie it into the seat mount if u want.
Fun stuff to watch as usual.
Bro, this build is so bad ass! Cheers from Miami 🍹 🍻 🍺
Для каркаса надо использовать прочную нержавеющую сталь, а не водопроводные трубы. Разница в стоимости материала меньше 50 долларов. И экономия была бы на весе труб и покраска не нужна!!! 🙏🙏
Why don’t you run a tube under the rear seat to join the shock tower and make it removable like the front shock tube mount?
You should run a bar under the rear seat to tie the 2 shock towers together and still run a bar behind it to add extra strength. It is a overkill.... better safe then sorry!!!
Could you tie the rear shock towers together with a truss that runs under the backseat? Not ideal, but better than nothing.
Вообще красавчик! Такая качественная работа...
Are you gonna build a rear bumper with a swingout tire carrier?
Belles soudures, bravo !
Why not take the cage to a powder coating shop with an oven large enough? Sorry but you missed the boat on that one, my apologies! I take every piece I can to a local powder coating shop and being i take so much to them they only charge me $8 per part unless it’s wheels or bicycle frames that I restore and flip.
Always great videos!! Thanks again!! 👍
Dang you got quite a collection of tools.
U need a paint boot Austin! 🙃
Love the work you do
Under the seat if you're worried about it love the videos
How are you storing your steel plate? Find a way that isnt a pain?
Leaned against a wall, it’s always a pain haha
Good Job again , Austin, you are Truly Master Fabricator !!=), Couple questions, I am a Finn, living in Lantana, South Florida, my Hometown in Finland, is at Arctic Circle, Rovaniemi. There is lots of Niemelas there, where is your parents, Grandparents from?? And, also, how is your Brother doing, hope well?? Keep it up, youtheman =)
Hey! My grand parents are from Finland, not sure exactly where! Cam is doing good, thanks!!
Back seat do armrest each side
Good afternoon, you are shooting interesting videos, unfortunately I do not know English very well, please make the subtitles in Russian available on your channel. In the channel settings, thank you. 😎
Maaan its been a few years now watching you austin, and it just keeps getting better, now you have all these new tools the plasma cutter
Do a cross bar under Tha seat
Run a bar under the seat
Man thats enough spray painting to make your finger fall off. ha ha
You should have Tig welded the cage and spent 8 days welding.
What is the design software you use?
If I were you brother, I wouldn't even put a back seat in. You know, as well as I do, that no one will ever sit back there, and it will give you a lot of extra room for gear and tools
Well I have 2 kids that would love to come out with me! Back seat is a must
What weight of the car are you planning to get?
👌👌👌👍👍👍 Cant wait for this to be done.
Looks wicked good man!
👌
You put out so much content
👍👍👍
🌪
Top top 5 stars
amazing!
Good job!
good shit!!!
😎👍🏻🔥💯🤘🏼🍺
👍🏽🇺🇸👍🏽
Go under the seat
*Promo SM* 💔
Install subs lol
Do you work for the public lol
4th
Top notch work 👌