A lot of holes I've made in my life have been weird, even though they were not suppose to be. Nice job. Looks like somebody did a good jog in casting the part in aluminum.
Nice approach. It warms my heart a bunch to see somebody restoring old toys like that. With that steering wheel being aluminum, I wouldn't be surprised if the guy at some point wants you to make him some steel flat washers with that same weird hole in it to fit underneath the wheel on the shaft.
Good job requiring some thought for the radii. The soft tool worked well for aluminum but for steel you need a case hardened broach. I’ve found that “Cherry Red” works well for small steel parts. Heat the parts bright red with a torch, dip in the compound until coated, then reheat and quench in cold water. No tempering required.
It's good to see a video from you again. I just noticed that you have over 35K subscribers. I remember when you hit 25K after the Briggs & Stratton car.
Thanks Andy! Yep, I picked up about 10K subscribers with the car videos. I'm thinking about making another one only electric. They actually made an electric version called Red Bug in 1923. I thought about an on-board gas motor but that would not be original. The electric version had an on-board motor.
@@WinkysWorkshop The Red Bug sounds like a interesting project. Does the electric model drive the rear wheels or does it use a fifth wheel for the drive? I thought that was a odd way of getting the power to the ground. I imagine that the original gas version was aimed at people who lived outside of smaller towns who wanted a way to get to town and back without hitching up a wagon inexpensively. I am going to look up the Red Bug.
@@andyZ3500s From what I understand the Buckboard Flyer was like a sports car. It was a toy for the wealthy. The buckboard flyer used an add on gas motor designed for use on a bicycle. It was called a motor wheel. The electric version had driven wheels. The motor wheel works and its an interesting idea but it chatters in turns and makes the car very long. By using an electric motor the car would be more "authentic". They never made the gas version with the motor "on board" (wheels driven).
@@WinkysWorkshop I looked both up yesterday. I could see why the electric vehicle was marketed for the wealthy as most rural areas didn't have electricity at that point in time. I recognized the internal combustion drive wheel as soon as I saw a picture. In one of the advertisements of the Red Bug they mentioned that there was a JR. model for the little ones. The electric one would be a cool project. Just what you need though. Well I think that I'll take my Red Bug down to the harbor and then stop by the club.
A nice side project, could be a little machinists jack for supporting those milling jobs. Ideal when long parts are stuck out quite far. Could all be done on the lathe? ;-)
Nice build enjoyed….video quarterback, assuming the 3 wheels were similar, location blocks on your plywood pallet would have made the machining repeatable??
I always enjoy your projects and solutions. Having a 1939 South Bend 11" X 4' under mount motor lathe which is similar to yours with a 1 and 5/8" -8 spindle and 7/8 through hole I was wondering if you had an adapter to fit a Jacobs taper in the spindle end ? If so can I get a description and measurements of it? Also I have a jet 15 mill drill very similar to yours and was wondering what is your X and Y DRO setup. I know you made a video on the z-axis did you make one on the xy and the brand? Thank you for showing your many upgrades on both these machines, I've used a few of them already. Ed, N.E. Ohio.
Okay thank you for the reply mine is definitely not a number three it must be a proprietary adapter. Do you have any info on your Dro for the mill thanks
@@edwardkawecki8101 No I'm pretty sure I bought a No. 2 to 3 MT adapter. Now I'm doubting myself. I did read that some of the lathes have a odd taper but the adapter fits perfect
@@edwardkawecki8101 Edward, I just tried the adapter and it does fit. However, it geos deep into the bore (maybe about 3/4"). I put bluing on the OD of the adapter and checked the contact. About 1/2" of the small end has no contact but the rest is perfect Maybe not ideal but it does work. Also I had to get an extended center to use with a face plate. I hope this helps.
Thanks for double checking I am going to have to try and take a good measurement of my spindle ID taper and probably make an adapter. When I also tried Bluing a Jacob's taper it did not match up good and it wiggled around. Many things I believe were more standardized after 1942
Drill a normal hole then use a brooch that transitions from round to the desired shape. RUclipsr Click Spring shows making a brooch just copy the steps just finish with your desired shape
I saw that... very nice for doing a bunch of holes. I spend very little time making my broach and only needed 3 holes. His method is good but too involved for 3 holes.
How about putting a set up block(s) under the arm so that the cut is accurate on both sides of the rod & just not "eyeballed"? Real machinists are not inaccurate on purpose.
Yeah... I agree the blocks would assure accuracy although I trust my eyeballs for a one off. I was thinking a collet block might be a good method if I was doing multiples. And who said I was a real machinist? This comment is very interesting and leads to many questions. Like, is there a time when good enough is good enough? I agree that their are many instances when absolute accuracy is very important but that there are also many that achieve the same outcome without a more effort. I have worked with several very good machinists in my job before I retired from the printing industry and I will say that they were a good influence. I had a job as a engineer/machinist without any official training. 100% self taught. I made several hundred significant machine improvements without a single failure. Don't get me wrong. I'm not on the defensive here, you made a very good point but I am saying, there is a time and place for both good "good enough" and "dead on". I was the guy that did what the engineers said I could not do. I will have to admit, it was fun to prove them wrong. I guess there was one failure. I never did figure out of to combat a huge static electricity problem we had. I installed 10 4-nozzle misters 30 feet above the floor with a filtering system the real engineer designed and ended up cleaning them weekly for 4-month out of the year. They helped the static a little but not like I thought they would.
@@WinkysWorkshop I am not criticizing you or your methods. I too am self taught hobbyist with high school shop training. My philosophy has been to try to do good setups without being overly complicated about it. This keeps me in practice using my tools for when I do need the accuracy. Don't get me wrong. There are times when the Mark 1 eyeball is good enough. Keep up the good videos. Yours show good alternative ways on doing projects.
@@cpcoark Yes I understood, your suggestion was a good idea. I just thought it brought up some interesting differences in the way people work or approach a problem. Thanks for your suggestions they are always valued. I learn a lot from the feedback I get.... and get many ideas.
Aside from it being too tall for my shop it's fantastic. I put the motor up between the floor joists but I'm limited on drum size. Suggestion. Cut a hole in the side of the drum with a hole saw. Maybe a 2-1/2" diameter about 3" down from the top. Then install a thin (maybe 1/16" thick) peace of plastic over the hole. The plastic will flex and conform to the drum and can secure it with screws. This will let you monitor the level of the saw dust. If the drum gets too full the dust clogs the filter and the filter is hard to clean. It separates perfectly otherwise.
Click bait? Nah, that would be a pretty lady but you might have me on a technicality. I guess the question is, can you bore with an end mill? I think yes but... maybe moving side to side disqualifies. Thanks for watching.
A lot of holes I've made in my life have been weird, even though they were not suppose to be. Nice job.
Looks like somebody did a good jog in casting the part in aluminum.
I'm not sure if he had them cast or if somebody made them available to buy... but yes they were well done.
Good Job Winky, that's called a Double D Shaft Connection.
Cool... interesting
Nice approach. It warms my heart a bunch to see somebody restoring old toys like that. With that steering wheel being aluminum, I wouldn't be surprised if the guy at some point wants you to make him some steel flat washers with that same weird hole in it to fit underneath the wheel on the shaft.
That's a good point and I thought about that too. Probably a good idea!
Good job requiring some thought for the radii. The soft tool worked well for aluminum but for steel you need a case hardened broach. I’ve found that “Cherry Red” works well for small steel parts. Heat the parts bright red with a torch, dip in the compound until coated, then reheat and quench in cold water. No tempering required.
There's always a way to skin that cat! Thank you for sharing, Winky! Kind regards from the UK Cambridgeshire fens!
Thanks and thanks for watching
It was great seeing a new video from you Winky. You gotter did just right.
Thanks Harold.
NICE PROJECT WINKY, WELL DONE
Thanks
Slick little work around with the threaded broach. Nice work Mark
Thanks 👍
A good Hey Man repair there Mark.
Thank you sir.
Glad to see another video! What size holder is on your lathe? Is that AXA size?
Yes AXA. Thanks!
It's good to see a video from you again. I just noticed that you have over 35K subscribers. I remember when you hit 25K after the Briggs & Stratton car.
Thanks Andy! Yep, I picked up about 10K subscribers with the car videos. I'm thinking about making another one only electric. They actually made an electric version called Red Bug in 1923. I thought about an on-board gas motor but that would not be original. The electric version had an on-board motor.
@@WinkysWorkshop The Red Bug sounds like a interesting project. Does the electric model drive the rear wheels or does it use a fifth wheel for the drive? I thought that was a odd way of getting the power to the ground. I imagine that the original gas version was aimed at people who lived outside of smaller towns who wanted a way to get to town and back without hitching up a wagon inexpensively. I am going to look up the Red Bug.
@@andyZ3500s From what I understand the Buckboard Flyer was like a sports car. It was a toy for the wealthy. The buckboard flyer used an add on gas motor designed for use on a bicycle. It was called a motor wheel. The electric version had driven wheels. The motor wheel works and its an interesting idea but it chatters in turns and makes the car very long. By using an electric motor the car would be more "authentic". They never made the gas version with the motor "on board" (wheels driven).
@@WinkysWorkshop I looked both up yesterday. I could see why the electric vehicle was marketed for the wealthy as most rural areas didn't have electricity at that point in time. I recognized the internal combustion drive wheel as soon as I saw a picture. In one of the advertisements of the Red Bug they mentioned that there was a JR. model for the little ones. The electric one would be a cool project. Just what you need though. Well I think that I'll take my Red Bug down to the harbor and then stop by the club.
@@andyZ3500s - Interesting... I didn't know about the JR version.
Welcome back Winky we missed you. Great outcome. Regards from Australia
Thanks Dave.
Nice one from a wood worker in England 🏴
Cool! Thanks for watching!
Nice work....I suspected this might be a broaching type procedure
Yes i agree.
Good to see you again.
Hey, thanks
Thanks for the video Winky. I have a project coming up with the same kind of hole. You made my life a whole lot easier.
Glad I could help!
A nice side project, could be a little machinists jack for supporting those milling jobs. Ideal when long parts are stuck out quite far. Could all be done on the lathe? ;-)
Great point!
Welcome back Mark
Thanks Terry!
Thanks So Much! Looks Great!
Thanks Tom!
I have a lot of problems with the stock slipping in the chuck when using a die. Not sure whats up with that.
If I remember to tighten the stock extra tight it seems to be okay but you are right... threading takes a lot of torque.
If you wanted to thread a 3/8-24, for instance, the shaft should be slightly smaller, say 0.365. There is no need for 100% threads.
@@makerspace533 True statement but it's also a matter of convenience. I just didn't tighten the chuck enough.
Nice build enjoyed….video quarterback, assuming the 3 wheels were similar, location blocks on your plywood pallet would have made the machining repeatable??
Very true! I probably should have done that.
I always enjoy your projects and solutions. Having a 1939 South Bend 11" X 4' under mount motor lathe which is similar to yours with a 1 and 5/8" -8 spindle and 7/8 through hole I was wondering if you had an adapter to fit a Jacobs taper in the spindle end ? If so can I get a description and measurements of it? Also I have a jet 15 mill drill very similar to yours and was wondering what is your X and Y DRO setup. I know you made a video on the z-axis did you make one on the xy and the brand? Thank you for showing your many upgrades on both these machines, I've used a few of them already. Ed, N.E. Ohio.
Thanks! I bought a No. 3 to 2 JT adapter and it fit perfectly
Okay thank you for the reply mine is definitely not a number three it must be a proprietary adapter. Do you have any info on your Dro for the mill thanks
@@edwardkawecki8101 No I'm pretty sure I bought a No. 2 to 3 MT adapter. Now I'm doubting myself. I did read that some of the lathes have a odd taper but the adapter fits perfect
@@edwardkawecki8101 Edward, I just tried the adapter and it does fit. However, it geos deep into the bore (maybe about 3/4"). I put bluing on the OD of the adapter and checked the contact. About 1/2" of the small end has no contact but the rest is perfect Maybe not ideal but it does work. Also I had to get an extended center to use with a face plate. I hope this helps.
Thanks for double checking I am going to have to try and take a good measurement of my spindle ID taper and probably make an adapter. When I also tried Bluing a Jacob's taper it did not match up good and it wiggled around. Many things I believe were more standardized after 1942
Drill a normal hole then use a brooch that transitions from round to the desired shape. RUclipsr Click Spring shows making a brooch just copy the steps just finish with your desired shape
I saw that... very nice for doing a bunch of holes. I spend very little time making my broach and only needed 3 holes. His method is good but too involved for 3 holes.
Very nice Winky
Thanks
“A little bit crude” lol yea just a little
Good for just a few.
Nice.
Thanks!
Best part is, If this ever became worn out you could easily build a small steel plate to fit the shaft & bolt it to the wheel
Agree, this would be a better method
Buen trabajo como siempre
Thanks
How about putting a set up block(s) under the arm so that the cut is accurate on both sides of the rod & just not "eyeballed"? Real machinists are not inaccurate on purpose.
I agree. A adjustable parallel block with some stand off blocks would make it easy to setup the flat for milling
Yeah... I agree the blocks would assure accuracy although I trust my eyeballs for a one off. I was thinking a collet block might be a good method if I was doing multiples. And who said I was a real machinist? This comment is very interesting and leads to many questions. Like, is there a time when good enough is good enough? I agree that their are many instances when absolute accuracy is very important but that there are also many that achieve the same outcome without a more effort. I have worked with several very good machinists in my job before I retired from the printing industry and I will say that they were a good influence. I had a job as a engineer/machinist without any official training. 100% self taught. I made several hundred significant machine improvements without a single failure. Don't get me wrong. I'm not on the defensive here, you made a very good point but I am saying, there is a time and place for both good "good enough" and "dead on". I was the guy that did what the engineers said I could not do. I will have to admit, it was fun to prove them wrong. I guess there was one failure. I never did figure out of to combat a huge static electricity problem we had. I installed 10 4-nozzle misters 30 feet above the floor with a filtering system the real engineer designed and ended up cleaning them weekly for 4-month out of the year. They helped the static a little but not like I thought they would.
Or maybe a collet block. Thanks for watching
@@WinkysWorkshop I am not criticizing you or your methods. I too am self taught hobbyist with high school shop training. My philosophy has been to try to do good setups without being overly complicated about it. This keeps me in practice using my tools for when I do need the accuracy. Don't get me wrong. There are times when the Mark 1 eyeball is good enough. Keep up the good videos. Yours show good alternative ways on doing projects.
@@cpcoark Yes I understood, your suggestion was a good idea. I just thought it brought up some interesting differences in the way people work or approach a problem. Thanks for your suggestions they are always valued. I learn a lot from the feedback I get.... and get many ideas.
I just purchased that same dust collector... How do you like it?
Aside from it being too tall for my shop it's fantastic. I put the motor up between the floor joists but I'm limited on drum size. Suggestion. Cut a hole in the side of the drum with a hole saw. Maybe a 2-1/2" diameter about 3" down from the top. Then install a thin (maybe 1/16" thick) peace of plastic over the hole. The plastic will flex and conform to the drum and can secure it with screws. This will let you monitor the level of the saw dust. If the drum gets too full the dust clogs the filter and the filter is hard to clean. It separates perfectly otherwise.
@@WinkysWorkshop thank you
As always great work
Thank you! Cheers!
Nice job as usual. Do you still have your Logan? Haven’t seen you use it in a while.
I sold it... I ran out of room. I miss having two lathes sometimes but having more room is great!
nice job, am i wrong or should that hole not have been 90deg to what you made it?
I'm not sure what you mean but it was the same as the original sample
Thanks for sharing nice job
Thank you too
Well done
Thanks Joel
Good job. For future reference, it is called a double D shaft & hole. They do make broaches for them.
Cool, I didn't know they made a broach for them. Good to know.
,👍💐
Thanks
Another BORING video Winky, LOL! Well done, "I LIKE IT".
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks
Kewl!
I’ll be stealing your ideas
Thanks
Go for it! Thanks
Click bait! This is milling and broaching not boring.
Click bait? Nah, that would be a pretty lady but you might have me on a technicality. I guess the question is, can you bore with an end mill? I think yes but... maybe moving side to side disqualifies. Thanks for watching.