Actually the Curtis 1205 works up to 42V, Which quite fittingly is 10 Li-ion cells in series. I have used this controller with a 5kW shunt wound motor (peak 25kW) and a 1 HP PM motor (peak 3kW). Works equally well. The Curtis controller has back EMF diodes, so when you ease the throttle, it brakes slowly. If you want it to coast you have to disable the motor wiring with a relay.
Really? Maybe I could stick with this controller then... I had the car up to 35 mph on the first test drive last week, I gotta work on some mechanical stuff before I film a nice video of it though.
@@wideband I used it in a small 3 wheeler 900 pounds two seater tandem Ev, and on the PM motor I could reach 43 mph on 42V. It really depend on the windings of the motor (RPM/volt). Had I put a 24V motor in it it would have run faster. If you are hardcore, you can rewind your shunt motor with fewer fatter turns. Or as you suggest get a higher voltage controller. Old Curtis controllers are as good as money, so you should be able to trade to something for cheap. Curtis also had a 48V version (60V max) and a 72V version. What I did eventually was getting a 48V controller from this UK business (Cheap one guy company at the time): www.4qd.co.uk/ It had regenerative braking and is as easy to wire up as a Curtis. I also opted for a more powerful motor the Lynch PM motor, actually a competitors version 27kW peak as it had both the power and high efficiency. Then my top speed was 59mph and I still had 67 miles range if I kept it at 31mph. However that motor was rough on the carbon bushes and they needed changing every year. Maybe it had to do with me tweaking the controller to 700A for ludicrous mode (0-60 in 4.5 seconds). Nevertheless, not a lot of road legal EVs in the 90' could drive like this, It was even before the prototype Tesla "T-Zero". If I had the money today, I would go for an AC motor, simply because it has no bushes - higher reliability. However going around the neighbourhood at 30mph, a bushed motor would last forever.
Man, I've been toying with the idea of doing this for a couple of years now. I've never seen it explained so well for beginners. Thanks a bunch for taking time out to do this for us! :)
Ok I get it. You've just thought me how to build my dream car. I'm a visual artist/ designer. All I've to do is just design and construct the frame and fit this simple technology to it. Yes! Electric cars are just fancy body on a juiced up skateboard 🛹 Great video Mate👍👍👍👍👍
Hey thanks man just wanted to say make sure you get a motor big enough for what you want, this motor was only good for 35 mph in a 2000 lb car. So if you want more performance get something bigger than I did or make a very light vehicle. Best of luck on your project!
I too am a complete noob. But I would love to convert my fiat 500 to electric or pickups e to use as a starter project . I’m going to sub because you’re very concise and perhaps I can learn from you. Thankyoufor this vid.
A very basic explanation, and that’s what I was after, as I would love to build a EV motorbike as I’m assuming this would be the cheapest EV project, ideas where to pick up one of these motors would be much appreciated, thanks for sharing your knowledge in layman’s terms 👌👌
I grabbed this one on ebay for like 200 bucks. A little small for a car but perfect for a bike. Just look for forklift drive motors or forklift traction motors. You want one with 4 connections. That would mean it's series wound so you get some more torque out of it.
Hahaha, I can't believe this just happened. I was at 6:30 in this video right when another tab loaded my road trip intro video that starts with the turbo V6 truck from Rust Belt Garage revving and making loud BOV noises. I was so confused. I thought you had put audio in just to be funny. Anyways, not sure how I missed this video, but awesome overview! I'd imagine another nice thing to add would be a low voltage warning or cut off, plus obviously a simple gauge. Nice video man!
Absolutely about the low cutoff voltage and gauges. I just wanted to cover the basics here. My controller actually has voltage cut built into it where it puts you in "limp mode", I could probably get home at 2 miles an hour lol.
Great explanation. My Infiniti G35 is superchaged currently makes around 450hp with exhaust and some bolt ons. I want more power but I don't want to stress the gas engine any further. I want to keep my setup reliable so I thought of adding 2 salvage nissan leaf electric motors to each rear wheel. Since my car can go awd to rwd with a pull of a fuse. I think this would be the perfect 700hp hybrid setup
That would be sick. I had a similar idea with my Civic. Wanted a built B18 with a gt35 in the front and then the wago diff and axles hooked to an electric motor in the rear. Wanted to be able to drive home on battery if the motor blew lol.
Thanks for the info! I've wanted to get into this sorta thing but I don't have much of the basic know how. I'm hoping to make an electric classic mini cooper in the coming years.
Are you going to make another video on the electric car I'm very interested in it and can't wait to see it if you do make anymore videos it's been a while lol
Great video thank you. I duplicated your setup in my car with all brand new 300-500 amp components except motor buts it’s good BUT it doesn’t run and both negatives on controller are live 😳 can you help me? Thank you Ray
I was wondering recently when i saw people using contactors and i was like why didn't i need one, I didn't realise it was just a solenoid switch, i ended up just using a switch cut the power output from the bms.
I haven't had the chance to drive it on the street much. I did get it up to 35 mph on a test drive, probably could do more but I was just making sure it didn't get too hot. This motor is pretty small, I would look for something bigger. this motor is probably good to pull 2k lbs or less. Of course all this depends on controller voltage and amps as well. Lots of factors at play here.
Simple and very well explained, are you planing on a similar explanation setup that would include some security features like, % battery discharge /recharge and temperature?
Hi, would be great if you can link the materials for the project, I would like to try it myself, but not sure which motors are best etc. (going for the cheapest possible way)
Hi, I have bought used Curtis 1236. without changing any parameter, can you use any THROTTLE TYPE on this controller or do I need to identify the pre-programmed THROTTLE TYPE set by previous owner? Is there any anyway to detect current throttle type?
Great Vid explanation! 👍 Just Sub'd! I'd like to convert my VW in the near future. This is exactly how I envisioned how I would begin the VW conversion journey. Anyway I can communicate with you regarding my conversion? Thanks!
You can shift gears if you keep the original gearbox with an electric motor, also if you don't keep the clutch, because you can stop an electric motor completely (no idling) so the clutch is not needed. Top speed has only to do with voltage of your battery pack, gears don't matter much on an electric car. So usually you always drive in 2'nd or 3'rd gear. However it is nice to have a gear box in a few circumstances if you need to carry a lot of weight up a steep hill. I did an EV years ago with only a 1:3 belt drive and differential, and it couldn't go up ferry ramps when fully loaded with 4 people!
Thanks for sharing. Quick question, how does the braking system work on electric cars, especially when we transfer from gas engine into electric. Thanks
So the thing I didn't wire up in this video is the "A2" terminal, that controls plug braking. It's a little more complicated but it means the motor will slow itself down when you release the gas. As far as real brakes go in my car I kept all the standard disc brakes. The difference is you won't have the vacuum assist from the gas engine, so you have to push real hard. If your car is heavy this isn't a good solution and I would recommend an electric vacuum pump hooked up to the brake booster and a system to keep it at 20 in. or so of vacuum.
Hey quick question: do you think its better to put 2 motors in the back or one in the front and one in the back? I know the 1:1 would be AWD but im sure its much more work. Am i right?
Depends on the type of motors we are talking about, if you are putting 2 in the back I'm assuming you have hub motors? or a way to hook them directly to a hub? If so then 2 in the back seems easier. Personally on my current build I have 1 in the front hooked up to the stock car transmission. Super simple if you do something like that. I would need to know more details about what you have and what you are planning to give more advice than that.
I picked up a used electric forklift motor about 200 lb for $200. Try looking at forklift places in Your City. Had a adapter plate made 4 speed transmission. Was not cheap $600 adapter plate.
I tore down and rebuilt one of these engines /motor in about 45 minutes I'm electric car guy. I could never rebuild an internal combustion engine to complicated. It would take Albert Einstein.
When you exclude all the accessories, it's really not that bad... inlet, exhaust, gasoline, and ignition,. Car makers just make it very difficult for people to service them giving their dealer shops a TON of work and $$$$$, especially with all the computerized parts that exist in newer cars, newer BMWs don't even have an oil dipstick, RIDICULOUS!
yeah its really not to bad. for an engine to operate you need spark, fuel, air and compression. If any of these are missing you won't get anything. Tuning is where it gets complicated but rebuilding a top end is pretty easy, just like a puzzle.
Could one use those 24v Kobalt power tool batteries?. They are new tech, lithium, pretty cheap to buy when they are on sale at Lowes and and I'm thinking 4 of them wired up right can offer 96volts, that's what I would want for a 1991 Ford Ranger truck. Build a way to snap them into a battery board for fast and easy swap outs, replacing the ones that go bad as easy as swapping them in power tools.
Top speed for me so far was 35 mph at 36 volts. Volts are mainly what decides your max rpm so its got waaaay more in it. I think ill be happy somewhere around 60-72 Volts.
Hi brother, I bought electric car from China, but the speeding very low40km/h , how can I increase the speeding to 90km/h , the motor power 60v/1500 watts, the controller 60v /1500 watts , How can I reach for more speed
It's simple really; you need about fifty times stronger motor, controller and battery. Then, you need to replace the rest of the car, to match the beefier power train.
That was the plan, but i also wanted to see how much power this motor made on it's own so I threw it into my Tercel. I'll have a video up on it soon. So currently Volvo is still getting the Honda swap and now I have an all electric Tercel. And down the road I would like to have the Volvo be awd hybrid.
Prices vary because this stuff can usually be picked up used, but I paid 225 for my motor, 150 for my controller, 50 for the coil, 50 for the throttle box. If you do this, go as big as you can fit with the motor. I can get away with this small one because my car is pretty light.
Yeah that would be sweet, The more batteries and bigger motor you can afford, the better. If you can swing it, go lithium. Those batteries are so much lighter, these weigh like 70lbs each...
@@wideband i just wanna go cheap for now just so i can prove the Concept to family i plan to run Solar region breaking and 3 Tesla battery packs with a honda Quiet as a backup
i have a new formula for you. it is one ebike battery 48 volts one ebike motor 48 volts. two battery management systems. one connected two the other with only one to two power wire from the first. then loader alternator and hydraulic motor. estimated to go 22000 miles if you one 120 motor power by a 120 stator and rotor from the original circuit above. good luck and figure it out it takes about two minutes to make it work if you already made one.
Actually the Curtis 1205 works up to 42V, Which quite fittingly is 10 Li-ion cells in series. I have used this controller with a 5kW shunt wound motor (peak 25kW) and a 1 HP PM motor (peak 3kW). Works equally well. The Curtis controller has back EMF diodes, so when you ease the throttle, it brakes slowly. If you want it to coast you have to disable the motor wiring with a relay.
Really? Maybe I could stick with this controller then... I had the car up to 35 mph on the first test drive last week, I gotta work on some mechanical stuff before I film a nice video of it though.
@@wideband I used it in a small 3 wheeler 900 pounds two seater tandem Ev, and on the PM motor I could reach 43 mph on 42V. It really depend on the windings of the motor (RPM/volt). Had I put a 24V motor in it it would have run faster. If you are hardcore, you can rewind your shunt motor with fewer fatter turns. Or as you suggest get a higher voltage controller. Old Curtis controllers are as good as money, so you should be able to trade to something for cheap. Curtis also had a 48V version (60V max) and a 72V version. What I did eventually was getting a 48V controller from this UK business (Cheap one guy company at the time): www.4qd.co.uk/ It had regenerative braking and is as easy to wire up as a Curtis. I also opted for a more powerful motor the Lynch PM motor, actually a competitors version 27kW peak as it had both the power and high efficiency. Then my top speed was 59mph and I still had 67 miles range if I kept it at 31mph. However that motor was rough on the carbon bushes and they needed changing every year. Maybe it had to do with me tweaking the controller to 700A for ludicrous mode (0-60 in 4.5 seconds). Nevertheless, not a lot of road legal EVs in the 90' could drive like this, It was even before the prototype Tesla "T-Zero". If I had the money today, I would go for an AC motor, simply because it has no bushes - higher reliability. However going around the neighbourhood at 30mph, a bushed motor would last forever.
@@Tore_Lund Hi Tore , You have good practical knowledge I want to build a wheelchair accessible ev can you share your experience with me.
@@khanatifali1800 Excellent idea Ali, what do you need help with?
@@Tore_LundHow can I contact you. Do you use skype?
very concise and crisp description of the whole system
I have watched many videos and so far you explained so much clearer than the others
Man, I've been toying with the idea of doing this for a couple of years now. I've never seen it explained so well for beginners. Thanks a bunch for taking time out to do this for us! :)
EXCELLENT video, very well explained, no theory no bullshit, no fluff, thank you su much, glad I found it!
Thank you very much sir, you've just clearly explained everything I've been trying to understand
Keep your civic as orginal, add this motor kit to rear wheel and it become hybrid car! Truly performance!
Ok I get it.
You've just thought me how to build my dream car.
I'm a visual artist/ designer.
All I've to do is just design and construct the frame and fit this simple technology to it.
Yes!
Electric cars are just fancy body on a juiced up skateboard 🛹
Great video Mate👍👍👍👍👍
Hey thanks man just wanted to say make sure you get a motor big enough for what you want, this motor was only good for 35 mph in a 2000 lb car. So if you want more performance get something bigger than I did or make a very light vehicle. Best of luck on your project!
@@wideband thanks
I too am a complete noob. But I would love to convert my fiat 500 to electric or pickups e to use as a starter project . I’m going to sub because you’re very concise and perhaps I can learn from you. Thankyoufor this vid.
Simple and to the point! Looking forward to the install!
A very basic explanation, and that’s what I was after, as I would love to build a EV motorbike as I’m assuming this would be the cheapest EV project, ideas where to pick up one of these motors would be much appreciated, thanks for sharing your knowledge in layman’s terms 👌👌
I grabbed this one on ebay for like 200 bucks. A little small for a car but perfect for a bike. Just look for forklift drive motors or forklift traction motors. You want one with 4 connections. That would mean it's series wound so you get some more torque out of it.
Hahaha, I can't believe this just happened. I was at 6:30 in this video right when another tab loaded my road trip intro video that starts with the turbo V6 truck from Rust Belt Garage revving and making loud BOV noises. I was so confused. I thought you had put audio in just to be funny.
Anyways, not sure how I missed this video, but awesome overview! I'd imagine another nice thing to add would be a low voltage warning or cut off, plus obviously a simple gauge. Nice video man!
Absolutely about the low cutoff voltage and gauges. I just wanted to cover the basics here. My controller actually has voltage cut built into it where it puts you in "limp mode", I could probably get home at 2 miles an hour lol.
That's actually awesome, hahaha.
Very well explained! If you have the opportunity please explain more complex setups!
Thanks! If I ever do an A/C setup I'll be sure to make a video.
Best video breakdown ever!
Thanks for revving it for us!
Great explanation. My Infiniti G35 is superchaged currently makes around 450hp with exhaust and some bolt ons. I want more power but I don't want to stress the gas engine any further. I want to keep my setup reliable so I thought of adding 2 salvage nissan leaf electric motors to each rear wheel. Since my car can go awd to rwd with a pull of a fuse. I think this would be the perfect 700hp hybrid setup
That would be sick. I had a similar idea with my Civic. Wanted a built B18 with a gt35 in the front and then the wago diff and axles hooked to an electric motor in the rear. Wanted to be able to drive home on battery if the motor blew lol.
How about a follow up video for adding in a charging circuit?
Great explanation simple and easy to follow, Thank You
hello good evening friend the relay that you use is the same one that uses car starters in the starter motors
Great explanation. Thank you 🙏
Awsome presentation. Really well done
Thanks for the info! I've wanted to get into this sorta thing but I don't have much of the basic know how.
I'm hoping to make an electric classic mini cooper in the coming years.
This is just the surface haha, but if you just want to make it simple series-wound dc is the way to go!
Hi
Can you tell me or do a video of how you wire up the charge ready for charging
Thanks for the vid. Pretty well explained.
I like what your doing. I'm planning to follow along.
Thank you.
Are you going to make another video on the electric car I'm very interested in it and can't wait to see it if you do make anymore videos it's been a while lol
I have an old Kaiser M725 military ambulance with the original 24v system I would love to put this into it. Any suggestions?
Good video
Great video thank you. I duplicated your setup in my car with all brand new 300-500 amp components except motor buts it’s good BUT it doesn’t run and both negatives on controller are live 😳 can you help me? Thank you
Ray
Would be cool if you put this setup in an old dirt bike 🏍
Agreed that would be sick, honestly still considering a go kart...
I was wondering recently when i saw people using contactors and i was like why didn't i need one, I didn't realise it was just a solenoid switch, i ended up just using a switch cut the power output from the bms.
Where is J1 hooked up to beside the micro switch is 36vdc or 12vdc
Is it possible to trigger the contactor through a separate battery?
How would you go in reverse if you need to back up?
What would the max speed?
Guess if you gear it up can get more?
What is the wait that motor will pull?
Thank You
I haven't had the chance to drive it on the street much. I did get it up to 35 mph on a test drive, probably could do more but I was just making sure it didn't get too hot. This motor is pretty small, I would look for something bigger. this motor is probably good to pull 2k lbs or less. Of course all this depends on controller voltage and amps as well. Lots of factors at play here.
How do you put a switch in the circuit to make the motor spin in reverse?
Simple and very well explained, are you planing on a similar explanation setup that would include some security features like, % battery discharge
/recharge and temperature?
Thank for the video, can u make a batter charging setup too
Hi, would be great if you can link the materials for the project, I would like to try it myself, but not sure which motors are best etc. (going for the cheapest possible way)
AC motors is it actually the best solution in ev conversion cars ?thanks guys
Is a precharger not necessary in this case?
Hi, I have bought used Curtis 1236. without changing any parameter, can you use any THROTTLE TYPE on this controller or do I need to identify the pre-programmed THROTTLE TYPE set by previous owner?
Is there any anyway to detect current throttle type?
How do you do reverse or are you using vehicle gearbox?
what all would i need if i want to convert my mini cooper to electric ? can you help me
Great Vid explanation! 👍
Just Sub'd!
I'd like to convert my VW in the near future.
This is exactly how I envisioned how I would begin the VW conversion journey.
Anyway I can communicate with you regarding my conversion?
Thanks!
Have you a vid about your project?
nice vid, thanks. For a noob like me this is great. Up to how many kg (car wheight) can the DC motor hold?
No need for a pre charge?
Great video sir... here's a sub!!
Good
Be nice to see a DVD. Step by step.to be made. how to put foot thor
What kind of wire did he use can any one say
I am indian how can i buy this motor and controller , thanks sir
Can you shift gears while driving ? After getting some acceleration If we use top gear will it increase some mileage and speed?
You can shift gears if you keep the original gearbox with an electric motor, also if you don't keep the clutch, because you can stop an electric motor completely (no idling) so the clutch is not needed. Top speed has only to do with voltage of your battery pack, gears don't matter much on an electric car. So usually you always drive in 2'nd or 3'rd gear. However it is nice to have a gear box in a few circumstances if you need to carry a lot of weight up a steep hill. I did an EV years ago with only a 1:3 belt drive and differential, and it couldn't go up ferry ramps when fully loaded with 4 people!
Can you set up a little 50cc engine with an alternator to charge the batteries?
You'd be far better off putting solar on the roof. Simpler, easier to use and burns no gas. Solar panels and a charger are my next step.
Thanks for sharing. Quick question, how does the braking system work on electric cars, especially when we transfer from gas engine into electric. Thanks
So the thing I didn't wire up in this video is the "A2" terminal, that controls plug braking. It's a little more complicated but it means the motor will slow itself down when you release the gas. As far as real brakes go in my car I kept all the standard disc brakes. The difference is you won't have the vacuum assist from the gas engine, so you have to push real hard. If your car is heavy this isn't a good solution and I would recommend an electric vacuum pump hooked up to the brake booster and a system to keep it at 20 in. or so of vacuum.
Hey quick question: do you think its better to put 2 motors in the back or one in the front and one in the back? I know the 1:1 would be AWD but im sure its much more work. Am i right?
Depends on the type of motors we are talking about, if you are putting 2 in the back I'm assuming you have hub motors? or a way to hook them directly to a hub? If so then 2 in the back seems easier. Personally on my current build I have 1 in the front hooked up to the stock car transmission. Super simple if you do something like that. I would need to know more details about what you have and what you are planning to give more advice than that.
Can I swap a SepEx motor with a BLDC motor using the same controller ?
pls need your advise what motor do i need if i am converting an SUV infinit fx 35 i mean what size of motor do i go for?
I picked up a used electric forklift motor about 200 lb for $200. Try looking at forklift places in Your City. Had a adapter plate made 4 speed transmission. Was not cheap $600 adapter plate.
Please add dc to dc charger and mount alternator to charge back the battery
I tore down and rebuilt one of these engines /motor in about 45 minutes I'm electric car guy. I could never rebuild an internal combustion engine to complicated. It would take Albert Einstein.
When you exclude all the accessories, it's really not that bad... inlet, exhaust, gasoline, and ignition,. Car makers just make it very difficult for people to service them giving their dealer shops a TON of work and $$$$$, especially with all the computerized parts that exist in newer cars, newer BMWs don't even have an oil dipstick, RIDICULOUS!
yeah its really not to bad. for an engine to operate you need spark, fuel, air and compression. If any of these are missing you won't get anything. Tuning is where it gets complicated but rebuilding a top end is pretty easy, just like a puzzle.
Could one use those 24v Kobalt power tool batteries?. They are new tech, lithium, pretty cheap to buy when they are on sale at Lowes and and I'm thinking 4 of them wired up right can offer 96volts, that's what I would want for a 1991 Ford Ranger truck. Build a way to snap them into a battery board for fast and easy swap outs, replacing the ones that go bad as easy as swapping them in power tools.
What's the top speed, everyone ls swaps cars that have rotaries, I want to dual electric motor and electrify a car and make it a race car
Top speed for me so far was 35 mph at 36 volts. Volts are mainly what decides your max rpm so its got waaaay more in it. I think ill be happy somewhere around 60-72 Volts.
I love this shit
sir good day, i am aldwin from the philippine is it possible to order the same set up like what you demo aside for the battery. how it cost
👍👍👍👍
Can these work from a car
You can use lithium audio batteries for this
I just sub. Keep up these awesome vids
Thanks! I'm working on another one right now.
Hi brother, I bought electric car from China, but the speeding very low40km/h , how can I increase the speeding to 90km/h , the motor power 60v/1500 watts, the controller 60v /1500 watts , How can I reach for more speed
It's simple really; you need about fifty times stronger motor, controller and battery. Then, you need to replace the rest of the car, to match the beefier power train.
Wait, you're turning the Volvo into a hybrid?
That was the plan, but i also wanted to see how much power this motor made on it's own so I threw it into my Tercel. I'll have a video up on it soon. So currently Volvo is still getting the Honda swap and now I have an all electric Tercel. And down the road I would like to have the Volvo be awd hybrid.
Around how much is the setup you showed ?
Prices vary because this stuff can usually be picked up used, but I paid 225 for my motor, 150 for my controller, 50 for the coil, 50 for the throttle box. If you do this, go as big as you can fit with the motor. I can get away with this small one because my car is pretty light.
@@wideband my project is a 72' Super Beetle i think this will be a perfict build
Yeah that would be sweet, The more batteries and bigger motor you can afford, the better. If you can swing it, go lithium. Those batteries are so much lighter, these weigh like 70lbs each...
@@wideband i just wanna go cheap for now just so i can prove the Concept to family i plan to run Solar region breaking and 3 Tesla battery packs with a honda Quiet as a backup
Hello I motor controller Curtis 600a my challenge accelerator pedal connection
Wow. What's this going in?
In the Volvo v70 wagon along with the Honda b18 for hybrid awd goodness.
I have a 70 challenger and have been considering integrating “electric assistance” to add midrange torque.
i have a new formula for you. it is one ebike battery 48 volts one ebike motor 48 volts. two battery management systems. one connected two the other with only one to two power wire from the first. then loader alternator and hydraulic motor. estimated to go 22000 miles if you one 120 motor power by a 120 stator and rotor from the original circuit above. good luck and figure it out it takes about two minutes to make it work if you already made one.
So basically free electricity?
Can that motor run a vehicle with a engine
To bad you cant think of a charging system to keep the battery charged
How do you charge it? Lol
I got a 36 volt charger on ebay for pretty cheap. Charger depends on batteries and how many.
Is this fucking tyler from tylers garage. Id know that voice anywhere!?
Yup changed channel names
@@wideband Right on dude thats cool.