it looks like you took more care than most painters would do, however on aluminium frames the first coat of primer should be an acid etch primer. This allows the paint to bite in to the surface of the frame and stops de lamination. A 10 minute flash off time before standard high build primer is applied is fine. decreasing between coats should not be an issue. You also had a hardener in your colour, this means it is a direct gloss paint, no need for clearcoat. if you want to apply clear to it the paint should be prepared with 1000 grade paper prior to stickers being put on. I hope this helps.
+cannondany You should of been. I restored E type Jaguars for a while and we used it on them and now I paint frames for Enigma Bikes in the UK and we use it on all Ti, aluminium and steel frames with no issues. Any advice needed feel free to ask. I've just painted my own 92 killer V in lilac. Love Cannondale myself
+cannondany You should of been. I restored E type Jaguars for a while and we used it on them and now I paint frames for Enigma Bikes in the UK and we use it on all Ti, aluminium and steel frames with no issues. Any advice needed feel free to ask. I've just painted my own 92 killer V in lilac. Love Cannondale myself
I think it is probably the primer not bonding to the frame properly. I wonder if the degreaser influenced this. Usually for painting there are special tack cloths that only pick up dust and particle without leaving any chemical residue. I would be concerned about using any kind of harsh chemical on the metal before I paint it. I agree with others that the factory does a pretty good job of priming so it's better to leave the primer and simply sand off the paint. It takes a lot of effort though. You may not even have to sand down to the primer. If you get the stickers off, and just rough up the top coat enough the next layer of paint might stick.
I don't know that particular paint but there are some coatings out there that are dry/cured to the touch and are usable after a few days but actually takes many weeks to reach full hardness unless the item is put into a bake oven to speed it up. Even in your situation, it could take longer because it was cool out or humid or whatever. I highly recommend a proper powdercoat finish for your next project. Not many wet sprays can compete with powdercoating for durability, and the ones that are will be just as expensive and will not be something you can do at home either.
I've got this size (small frame) on a 1997 F1000. It is the clear aluminum finish. What I noticed it that there is a serious amount of clear sealant over the finish. Fantastic frame, downtube is so big that the frame looks heavy but it's not.
looks fantastic I'm about ready to start my own re vamp of a bike I'm stripping an old mongoose serranto. drawn up some paint designs and can't wait to start it.
When you paint bare aluminium it has to be etched first with a zinc acid etch. There's different types; some that are very thin & are applied quickly & only give a colouring to the metal, some that are applied like any other paint to a specified thickness, & some are etch primer (Usually found in Automotive painting). The acid eats in & provides the base for your primer. I'd suggest using etch only as opposed to etch primer. Strip the bike & prepare as you do. Degrease. Tack rag it all over. Acid Etch applied to colour the aluminium (It'll go a yellow-green). It's thin so move fast & spray in longer motions along the frame as opposed to bursts. Allow for designated time to pass. Prime. Top Coat, Clear Coat (if need be). :-)
Is your degreaser also capable of removing silicone? Silicone on the parts can cause a somewhat perfect paintjob to come off again. Enough clear coat applied or was it 1k paint? With 2k paint, correct ratio hardener and paint used?
the bane of all painters. There is no solvent for silicone which makes refinishing contaminated items very difficult. This is a warning to all those "polishing" their cars and motorcycles with silicone based products. You can get products that help you deal with silicone problems, but the results are rarely 100% as nice as if it never had come in contact with it.
After the main paint goes on do you sand it again with 400 grit sand paper until matt finish then add a laquer which is a clear spray paint then sand it again with 400 grit then apply a wax or polish to the paint for the finish i could be wrong ?
Hi perhaps hoy need to use a 220 or 320 sand paper directly in your aluminum frame before start painting last es el I've painted my aluminum frame, almost your same steps then put some vinyl wraps over. I did'nt Like too much so I quit the bigger and have no problem with it
Maybe the 2 coats or primer were applied too thick or maybe there were applied too close together, time wise? If the problem was the paint, I would guess that the paint would chip to the primer, not the bare frame.
there wasnt enough of a scratch into the frame for the first coat of primer to stick to , ive painted all my bike's even motorbike's and car repairs all with spray cans , because a chemical stripper was used you didnt have to sand the frame much so u primer had nothing to stick to , i use 60 grit to take paint off , 80 then 120 grit on the whole bare frame , 4 - 6 light layers of primer , then a wet sand of 200 grit , then 3 - 5 light coats of paint , and 3-5 layers of clear coat , and perfect paint every time ,
hello ! thank you for video ! once i tried to clean my white bike with something for using in the kitchen cleaning (to clean cooker and oven, you know. i was stupid... :) ) and the paint did got of in some places... maybe the guy tried to clean it before put those stickers with something like that ? otherwise, i don`t see any issue... unless you had to wait more before the second hand of primer...
I got a f800 with bad oxi paint job and sanded down to alu , did not use paint stripper as you need to neutralise the paint remover, also I do minimum 4x undercoat, 4 x Colour coat ( light sanding down first 2x colour cots) and 2x clear (poxy& hardener mix) . 4 years and still going strong .. Hope that helps ,,, also use long strocks at 90 Degree to your frame when painting not short bursts, oh and try warming up the can a bit to stop spiting ...30Degrees is good... Cheers
Use an 'etch primer' or epoxy primer, sand 400 then a quick once over with 600, then use a sealer, which will seal the entire frame from the elements, then paint directly on top of sealer no sanding required unless surface is rough then 600. Paint, let it flash (dry with aided heat, can use box heater or something similar) then CLEAR! get a clear with hardener, like your paint. You went single stage paint on aluminum which most likely is the issue, go 2 stage paint, base colour and clear coat, with epoxy primer and a sealer. You will have zero issues... Use of a clear over base colour the clear acts as a hard glossy protective coat that seals in and protects your paint
did any of the paint start chipping off at the bar where the chain runs above it as I painted my old kona and it seems to chip very easily do you think lacquer would help
Kenny Bradshaw , I rebuilt a 95 kona cindercone, I opted for powder coating. Found a place that did alloy wheels, got the frame done white, for the money a better option than paint, almost impossible to chip
The bike is solid and my Ebike conversion went great. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Very smooth ride at 30mph with no problems (135 miles ridden so far). The picture is a bit deceiving - there is WAY less space in the center of the frame than it shows. The suspension connection takes up the entire thing. So I needed to attach my battery on the bottom of the frame and my controller on the top. Instructions for assembly were lacking but honestly it wasn't too hard to figure out even though I have very little bike knowledge. Watched some youtube videos on adjusting the disk brakes but that was it. Still, I am loving it and very happy with the purchase.
you sanded the frame to much making the metal to smooth, you should have a slight ruff surface to allow the primer to bond to the alloy, if the stickers removed the primer then the top coat of paint isn't the issue as it has bonded to the primer,
ok , the problem is the spray paint . youll never get a durable paint job from spray paint . you MUST use automotive paint . and as for the comments below , they have no idea what they are talking about . automotive primer and automotive paint .
ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS wear a respirator.....especially with paints that require a hardener!!!!! Very risky!! Perhaps your paint was formulated as a base coat and required a clear coat to seal?
Honestly, the bike frame looks like that of a cheap supermarket bike, the fork is pretty ugly and seems like a joke compared to the professional mountain bike suspensions. Are you sure that bike was not made for children and teenagers (10-16 of age)? While the paint work was great, thanks a lot for the tips. I am planning to paint both of my bikes soon, a road bike and a fixed gear :)
it looks like you took more care than most painters would do, however on aluminium frames the first coat of primer should be an acid etch primer. This allows the paint to bite in to the surface of the frame and stops de lamination. A 10 minute flash off time before standard high build primer is applied is fine. decreasing between coats should not be an issue. You also had a hardener in your colour, this means it is a direct gloss paint, no need for clearcoat. if you want to apply clear to it the paint should be prepared with 1000 grade paper prior to stickers being put on. I hope this helps.
Thanks for these suggestions! I wonder why I wasn't told that in the paint shop, where they actually paint cars...
+cannondany You should of been. I restored E type Jaguars for a while and we used it on them and now I paint frames for Enigma Bikes in the UK and we use it on all Ti, aluminium and steel frames with no issues. Any advice needed feel free to ask. I've just painted my own 92 killer V in lilac. Love Cannondale myself
+cannondany You should of been. I restored E type Jaguars for a while and we used it on them and now I paint frames for Enigma Bikes in the UK and we use it on all Ti, aluminium and steel frames with no issues. Any advice needed feel free to ask. I've just painted my own 92 killer V in lilac. Love Cannondale myself
You never wash with detergent and water after using strip-sol , wash it.
@@davidrollison4107 Hey ,do you know how should i paint my steel frame ? I removed all nickel it is just steel now ..what should my steps be now ?
I think it is probably the primer not bonding to the frame properly. I wonder if the degreaser influenced this. Usually for painting there are special tack cloths that only pick up dust and particle without leaving any chemical residue. I would be concerned about using any kind of harsh chemical on the metal before I paint it. I agree with others that the factory does a pretty good job of priming so it's better to leave the primer and simply sand off the paint. It takes a lot of effort though. You may not even have to sand down to the primer. If you get the stickers off, and just rough up the top coat enough the next layer of paint might stick.
I don't know that particular paint but there are some coatings out there that are dry/cured to the touch and are usable after a few days but actually takes many weeks to reach full hardness unless the item is put into a bake oven to speed it up. Even in your situation, it could take longer because it was cool out or humid or whatever. I highly recommend a proper powdercoat finish for your next project. Not many wet sprays can compete with powdercoating for durability, and the ones that are will be just as expensive and will not be something you can do at home either.
I've got this size (small frame) on a 1997 F1000. It is the clear aluminum finish. What I noticed it that there is a serious amount of clear sealant over the finish. Fantastic frame, downtube is so big that the frame looks heavy but it's not.
Oh, I loved the silver one!!!
looks fantastic I'm about ready to start my own re vamp of a bike I'm stripping an old mongoose serranto. drawn up some paint designs and can't wait to start it.
black and white is the BEST combination.. Love the way it turned out.. Looks killer .. puns intended
When you paint bare aluminium it has to be etched first with a zinc acid etch. There's different types; some that are very thin & are applied quickly & only give a colouring to the metal, some that are applied like any other paint to a specified thickness, & some are etch primer (Usually found in Automotive painting). The acid eats in & provides the base for your primer. I'd suggest using etch only as opposed to etch primer. Strip the bike & prepare as you do. Degrease. Tack rag it all over. Acid Etch applied to colour the aluminium (It'll go a yellow-green). It's thin so move fast & spray in longer motions along the frame as opposed to bursts. Allow for designated time to pass. Prime. Top Coat, Clear Coat (if need be). :-)
Oh & it's cancerous as hell so wear a mask & paint outside :-)
Can you make a video of your fork lock out please. It looks really interesting.
Is your degreaser also capable of removing silicone? Silicone on the parts can cause a somewhat perfect paintjob to come off again. Enough clear coat applied or was it 1k paint? With 2k paint, correct ratio hardener and paint used?
the bane of all painters. There is no solvent for silicone which makes refinishing contaminated items very difficult. This is a warning to all those "polishing" their cars and motorcycles with silicone based products. You can get products that help you deal with silicone problems, but the results are rarely 100% as nice as if it never had come in contact with it.
did you give the frame a final coat of clear lacquer?
Shouldn't use degreaser on the primer next time use a simple tack cloth
Looks really nice.
Maybe you can put another sticker over those areas..
looks great dude. good job
After the main paint goes on do you sand it again with 400 grit sand paper until matt finish then add a laquer which is a clear spray paint then sand it again with 400 grit then apply a wax or polish to the paint for the finish i could be wrong ?
Hi Daniel, all the steps are shown in the series.
thats a great bike , how many miles does it have ?
When I paint my frame have to add a hardener in paint before aplication after four coats I let it dry for about a week
Hi perhaps hoy need to use a 220 or 320 sand paper directly in your aluminum frame before start painting last es el I've painted my aluminum frame, almost your same steps then put some vinyl wraps over. I did'nt Like too much so I quit the bigger and have no problem with it
Do you have a list of components to convert to 1/10? Mine is an old 1993 delta v with 7 speed. Wasn't sure there was enough space to convert to 10.
Maybe the 2 coats or primer were applied too thick or maybe there were applied too close together, time wise? If the problem was the paint, I would guess that the paint would chip to the primer, not the bare frame.
there wasnt enough of a scratch into the frame for the first coat of primer to stick to , ive painted all my bike's even motorbike's and car repairs all with spray cans , because a chemical stripper was used you didnt have to sand the frame much so u primer had nothing to stick to , i use 60 grit to take paint off , 80 then 120 grit on the whole bare frame , 4 - 6 light layers of primer , then a wet sand of 200 grit , then 3 - 5 light coats of paint , and 3-5 layers of clear coat , and perfect paint every time ,
hello ! thank you for video ! once i tried to clean my white bike with something for using in the kitchen cleaning (to clean cooker and oven, you know. i was stupid... :) ) and the paint did got of in some places... maybe the guy tried to clean it before put those stickers with something like that ? otherwise, i don`t see any issue... unless you had to wait more before the second hand of primer...
can i ask what kind of paint should i buy to avoid scratches
Beautiful job! just put some black vinyl decals and it will look like the Long Beach Police department bikes
I got a f800 with bad oxi paint job and sanded down to alu , did not use paint stripper as you need to neutralise the paint remover, also I do minimum 4x undercoat, 4 x Colour coat ( light sanding down first 2x colour cots) and 2x clear (poxy& hardener mix) . 4 years and still going strong ..
Hope that helps ,,, also use long strocks at 90 Degree to your frame when painting not short bursts, oh and try warming up the can a bit to stop spiting ...30Degrees is good...
Cheers
did you put the clear coat or poly urethane
The issue is that you must seal that paint with a top coat. Either a clear coat or matte coat.
Use an 'etch primer' or epoxy primer, sand 400 then a quick once over with 600, then use a sealer, which will seal the entire frame from the elements, then paint directly on top of sealer no sanding required unless surface is rough then 600. Paint, let it flash (dry with aided heat, can use box heater or something similar) then CLEAR! get a clear with hardener, like your paint. You went single stage paint on aluminum which most likely is the issue, go 2 stage paint, base colour and clear coat, with epoxy primer and a sealer. You will have zero issues... Use of a clear over base colour the clear acts as a hard glossy protective coat that seals in and protects your paint
Thanks for your advice. I did everything according to the paint shop guidelines...
did any of the paint start chipping off at the bar where the chain runs above it as I painted my old kona and it seems to chip very easily do you think lacquer would help
Kenny Bradshaw , I rebuilt a 95 kona cindercone, I opted for powder coating. Found a place that did alloy wheels, got the frame done white, for the money a better option than paint, almost impossible to chip
Two layers of clear coating, then another two layers after the decals were applied
it's probably the solvent you use to clean the primer before the paint; or also not waiting at least 48 between coats
right now I have several coats of primer on it and I can't do anything till spring or summer
Paint lacquer would stop the peeling. Even if the paint product claims to have some mixed in, still use a clear lacquer.
you have to use a clear coat so paint doesn't have any damage cracking or chiping
No clear coat?
nice ride
Where's the clear coat?? :o
The bike is solid and my Ebike conversion went great. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Very smooth ride at 30mph with no problems (135 miles ridden so far). The picture is a bit deceiving - there is WAY less space in the center of the frame than it shows. The suspension connection takes up the entire thing. So I needed to attach my battery on the bottom of the frame and my controller on the top. Instructions for assembly were lacking but honestly it wasn't too hard to figure out even though I have very little bike knowledge. Watched some youtube videos on adjusting the disk brakes but that was it. Still, I am loving it and very happy with the purchase.
As stated aluminum requires a Etching primer.
you sanded the frame to much making the metal to smooth, you should have a slight ruff surface to allow the primer to bond to the alloy, if the stickers removed the primer then the top coat of paint isn't the issue as it has bonded to the primer,
Aspasia Zacharias d
every other payday I paint my bicycle a different color and every time I get lumps in my paint job i have no idea what is going on
Lester Hilger don't spray too much in one coat and make sure you aren't getting dust or dirt in the paint while it is still wet
how many teeth on ring please?
The worst part is that you dont have your Cannondale logo )))
logos cost 10 bucks for the whole bike kit
wow love it.
good job dude
don't white show dirt and mud..?
I think it is THE cleu from the stickers i have the same
Thanks for sharing.
That frame looks like a killer V i ride only cannonades F 600 s not it...
Sanding Sanding and more Sanding
ok , the problem is the spray paint . youll never get a durable paint job from spray paint . you MUST use automotive paint . and as for the comments below , they have no idea what they are talking about . automotive primer and automotive paint .
When you don't wanna talk while working
ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS wear a respirator.....especially with paints that require a hardener!!!!! Very risky!! Perhaps your paint was formulated as a base coat and required a clear coat to seal?
Spray paint is not strong ." Powder coat is the way to go."
That's a loooong stem
Alain Garcia its not that long....my stem is 120mm
air dry it for a month
Honestly, the bike frame looks like that of a cheap supermarket bike, the fork is pretty ugly and seems like a joke compared to the professional mountain bike suspensions. Are you sure that bike was not made for children and teenagers (10-16 of age)?
While the paint work was great, thanks a lot for the tips. I am planning to paint both of my bikes soon, a road bike and a fixed gear :)
did you use a clear coat?