Great video, much appreciated! Just did my front shocks today. Be prepared to need an air tool to get the inner strut nut off (mine where very tight, failed with regular tools). Strut spreader tool is also highly recommended (around 10 bucks). Passenger side can be done w/o removing the three nuts, this saves an alignment job. Just compress the spring with a jack and place the spring compressors, than lower the jack and you will have space to remove the inner nut (air tool again), mount and bearing while the strut is still in the car. This allows the space to take the strut out. Thanks again!
Thanks for creating this video. The gem for me was at the end when you pointed out how to remove the passenger side. I was stuck like you were and removing the lower control arm was just the advice I needed to get the job done. THANK YOU!
Did this today on a 2004 Jetta. Learned a lot and borrowed a Mcpherson strut compression tool from O'Reilleys for free to get the passenger side off without loosening any of the steering components, sub-frame, or anything else I was reading about. We put the compression tool on the new strut assembly to get it back in and it went pretty smooth.
I just did the same thing to my mk4 Golf thanks to your video. It's not that I didn't know how to do it, it's just that this is my first Volkswagen and I wanted to see if the process was much different to working on any other cars. Thanks for posting buddy!
Good video. I would add that you should put anti-sieze on the surface the strut tube sits in, and if you buy or make yourself a strut/knuckle spreader tool that holds the strut tube clamp open then you will spend a lot less time getting the bottom of the strut out! I made one by grinding down the sides of an allen socket, super cheap and easy, and helps a lot
Great video, thanks for putting that out. Question: I hear from another source the proper way to seat the bearing is to put the steel plate on then bearing then the special nut (rounded on bottom side) and tighten. Then just set the big rubber bushing on the top of strut and put it up into place and hand thread the nut on in engine compartment. Once you have everything ready you lower the car very slow and watch the position of the rubber bushing to ensure its centered up. Once its all centered and the car is back on ground the weight will cause the bearing to pop into place in the rubber bushing. My source told me doing it this way is necessary to ensure the bearing works properly.
Did your KYB struts have an issue with the guide piece going all the way down so you could get the pinch bolt thru? I'm doing KYB struts right now and cannot get the strut to sit any further down and I still have about 3/16 to go before I can get the pinch bolt thru
I saw another video where the guy ran into the same problem on the passenger side where the strut was hitting the axel but what he did was slightly lower the sub-frame. Your approach looks quicker and easier. Good video. Thanks.
Hi , thanks for the vid info .. but in my case i only need to replace the boot rubbers in the strut can that be done by dropping the strut ( remove top mount nuts and bottom suspension arm to allow access . Although i will need to remove the top spring retaining nut also .. thank you .👊
I just bought a 2007 golf city I believe my front passenger side top bearing and boot is shot causing a slight noise when going over bumps, any tips on replacing it?
I'm really confused... do you need to compress springs to swap out strut bearings and bushings..? at 2:00 hey did you see how cory mondics utilized an ass "spreader nuts" in addition to pp blaster to remove pinched nuts that connect knuckle to strut.. just wedge that puppy in and hit w impact (I usually do a tire iron or something of like).. hammer works, too when I'm pissed at one of my vw's...
Great Video!! But a strut spreader is a must!! especially if installing l aftermarket struts such as Monroes they seem to be slightly larger in circumference than the factory struts... Te spreader will save you time and frustration!!!
@8:43 - You should point out if you loosen those three bolts on the ball joint you will need to ensure they go back in the same position as previous otherwise you will need to do a wheel alignment. Pro tip: Use a scribe to make a mark a template onto to the control arm for the triangular part which the bolts thread into..
No realignment needed on this vehicle. You can not adjust the wheel alignment from those 3 bolts. You can only adjust the wheel tracking on this vehicle
This looks like the passenger side, was it? I never had to remove the three ball joint bolts. All I did was a bit of hammering, and then used a crowbar for leverage, to get the strut out and back in.
Hello, What about greasing the bearing surface where it rides again the metal plate? I took my factory ones apart and there was still grease there at 140k miles. Great video thanks
Pretty sure that's grease from the bearing itself. Bearing was probably damaged which caused the grease inside it to seep out over time. Not necessary to grease a new bearing, but, doesn't hurt.
Just note tho guys, if you DO infact loosen the ball joint hardware ( the 3 lower bolts ) ,, even tho their not eccentric slots in the control arms like the mk3, you might and probably will alter the toe alignment. All it takes is a few microns to change the toe. so you might be into an alignment also. try not to loosen those bolts if you can avoid it.
On reassembly, you never showed how you torqued the strut top mount, or mentioned that upper and lower mounts should only be torqued with the weight of the vehicle resting on the suspension.
1.) Any lock-tite and/or lube applied on the various nuts and bottom of the strut/mount? 2.) Were the nuts hand tightened or was a torque wrench applied?
Stretch bolts are usually torqued and then turned X amount past(like say 1/4 turn past 50lbs) and thread locker is "almost" always a good idea as it also makes nuts and bolts easier to remove.
I personally don’t drive the car but the price was right for those parts! It is my sisters car. It rides fine. As for durability probably not as good as Bilstein but the car most likely won’t live that long lol
Sachs came VW factory in my car, 1996. They are for sure a quality product, not sure if better than Bilstein but trustable perfectly. By the way, i just replaced mine with Bilsteins at the front , found them a bit cheaper than Sachs and almost same price as Kyb(cheapest).
TheInfamous88 lol you're late to the party. I've already finished. I would've taken to the shop by now if I couldn't haha but an allen key socket attachment did wonders in place of buying the spreader took. just fyi for future endeavors lol
what you do is: take a break bc you're 0robably seeing stars.. get a bite to eat, hydrate, have a beer, cu}cake w your bish (basically, anything mildly relaxing to take your mind off the autos for a bit).. return to auto, make observation of where best to begin where left off, plan procedure, and if all doesnt look or seem so 'geometrical' then that indicates that it's a green light to execute procedure..
@@vi8222 ...and I still hate VWs! Mechanically dumbest cars out of my fleet. Even the speaker replacement/upgrade has been made total pain in the balls. Just spent over half a day trying to get that bottom to fit, unsuccessfully, and in rain of course. Did i mention that I hate VWs...
That trick for doing the passenger side strut by removing the three bolts just saved my bacon. Thank you!
Thank you bro 😎
Perfect video man. Step by step with part numbers, no bs. Thank you for making and posting it.
Thanks for watching!
Great video, much appreciated! Just did my front shocks today. Be prepared to need an air tool to get the inner strut nut off (mine where very tight, failed with regular tools). Strut spreader tool is also highly recommended (around 10 bucks). Passenger side can be done w/o removing the three nuts, this saves an alignment job. Just compress the spring with a jack and place the spring compressors, than lower the jack and you will have space to remove the inner nut (air tool again), mount and bearing while the strut is still in the car. This allows the space to take the strut out. Thanks again!
That was extremely useful about using a spring compressor and then lowering the control arm. I was about to pull my hair out thanks !!!
Thanks for creating this video. The gem for me was at the end when you pointed out how to remove the passenger side. I was stuck like you were and removing the lower control arm was just the advice I needed to get the job done. THANK YOU!
Did this today on a 2004 Jetta. Learned a lot and borrowed a Mcpherson strut compression tool from O'Reilleys for free to get the passenger side off without loosening any of the steering components, sub-frame, or anything else I was reading about. We put the compression tool on the new strut assembly to get it back in and it went pretty smooth.
I just did the same thing to my mk4 Golf thanks to your video. It's not that I didn't know how to do it, it's just that this is my first Volkswagen and I wanted to see if the process was much different to working on any other cars. Thanks for posting buddy!
Glad to help!
Excellent. Quick explanation without any B.S. Your the man!!
I appreciate that!
Thanks I'll be trying this on my driveway once the UK weather get warm.
Wish I had a garage
thanks for taking the time to make the video! a great help to save me time on the same job this morning.
Glad to help
Good video. I would add that you should put anti-sieze on the surface the strut tube sits in, and if you buy or make yourself a strut/knuckle spreader tool that holds the strut tube clamp open then you will spend a lot less time getting the bottom of the strut out! I made one by grinding down the sides of an allen socket, super cheap and easy, and helps a lot
Great video, thanks for putting that out. Question: I hear from another source the proper way to seat the bearing is to put the steel plate on then bearing then the special nut (rounded on bottom side) and tighten. Then just set the big rubber bushing on the top of strut and put it up into place and hand thread the nut on in engine compartment. Once you have everything ready you lower the car very slow and watch the position of the rubber bushing to ensure its centered up. Once its all centered and the car is back on ground the weight will cause the bearing to pop into place in the rubber bushing. My source told me doing it this way is necessary to ensure the bearing works properly.
Angle grind a rear brake caliper bolt into an oval spreader for the hub. Vw sell the tool but it's easy to make 🤘
This is the most well explained video I've seen. Definitely using this for my mk4!!
do you have any of the torque settings? thanks
I think finally I found a good hack. Subscribed
I'm using old spring, not sure why my KYB came w/o springs.
Did your KYB struts have an issue with the guide piece going all the way down so you could get the pinch bolt thru? I'm doing KYB struts right now and cannot get the strut to sit any further down and I still have about 3/16 to go before I can get the pinch bolt thru
I saw another video where the guy ran into the same problem on the passenger side where the strut was hitting the axel but what he did was slightly lower the sub-frame. Your approach looks quicker and easier. Good video. Thanks.
Hi , thanks for the vid info .. but in my case i only need to replace the boot rubbers in the strut can that be done by dropping the strut ( remove top mount nuts and bottom suspension arm to allow access . Although i will need to remove the top spring retaining nut also ..
thank you .👊
I just bought a 2007 golf city I believe my front passenger side top bearing and boot is shot causing a slight noise when going over bumps, any tips on replacing it?
I'm really confused... do you need to compress springs to swap out strut bearings and bushings..? at 2:00 hey did you see how cory mondics utilized an ass "spreader nuts" in addition to pp blaster to remove pinched nuts that connect knuckle to strut.. just wedge that puppy in and hit w impact (I usually do a tire iron or something of like).. hammer works, too when I'm pissed at one of my vw's...
Great Video!!
But a strut spreader is a must!! especially if installing l aftermarket struts such as Monroes they seem to be slightly larger in circumference than the factory struts... Te spreader will save you time and frustration!!!
What brand and where do you get the spreader? I an installing Monroes and they are giving me a fit...
@@jamesericson5232 For anyone else who may need one, google this part number: MN3424
Really appreciate the video guys thank you!
Our pleasure!
How did you torque the nut at the top of the strut? The video doesn't show how this was done.
It takes a 12 point tool and a wrench. It's definitely a tool you'll have to have thats "special"
@8:43 - You should point out if you loosen those three bolts on the ball joint you will need to ensure they go back in the same position as previous otherwise you will need to do a wheel alignment. Pro tip: Use a scribe to make a mark a template onto to the control arm for the triangular part which the bolts thread into..
Jeff H. I don’t understand how your comment relates to mine.
No realignment needed on this vehicle. You can not adjust the wheel alignment from those 3 bolts. You can only adjust the wheel tracking on this vehicle
Other question is how deep should the shock go into the housing at the bottom?
Good video. Doesn't look so bad after watching your video. Thanks
This looks like the passenger side, was it? I never had to remove the three ball joint bolts. All I did was a bit of hammering, and then used a crowbar for leverage, to get the strut out and back in.
This was the drivers side
Hello,
What about greasing the bearing surface where it rides again the metal plate? I took my factory ones apart and there was still grease there at 140k miles. Great video thanks
I’m not sure but any grease probably wouldn’t hurt
Pretty sure that's grease from the bearing itself. Bearing was probably damaged which caused the grease inside it to seep out over time. Not necessary to grease a new bearing, but, doesn't hurt.
great video. clear pics and instruction. wish more vids were like this one.
Thanks!
Can I use this method for a right front strut?
Yes you can!
I have a 2000 Beetle with Koni red. How do these compare?
Great vid guys, and well fitted, going to do my ole girl ( the car :)! ) this weekened, cheers and thanks foir a excllent help video
Good luck!
Just note tho guys, if you DO infact loosen the ball joint hardware ( the 3 lower bolts ) ,, even tho their not eccentric slots in the control arms like the mk3, you might and probably will alter the toe alignment. All it takes is a few microns to change the toe. so you might be into an alignment also. try not to loosen those bolts if you can avoid it.
nic vid thanks. Ill do all that today on a skoda octavia mk1 2001.
Good luck!
Do you have the pinch bolt dimensions?
Are the new pinch bolts really optional? I thought they must be replaced.
Thanks for the video, for a volkswagen new beetle 2002 will be the same?
On reassembly, you never showed how you torqued the strut top mount, or mentioned that upper and lower mounts should only be torqued with the weight of the vehicle resting on the suspension.
1.) Any lock-tite and/or lube applied on the various nuts and bottom of the strut/mount? 2.) Were the nuts hand tightened or was a torque wrench applied?
Stretch bolts are usually torqued and then turned X amount past(like say 1/4 turn past 50lbs) and thread locker is "almost" always a good idea as it also makes nuts and bolts easier to remove.
Hi, great video first! May I ask where can i find that front strut pinch bolt? my original ones are really rusty... thx
VW Dealer or www.idparts.com/strut-pinch-bolt-and-nut-a4-p-703.html
I can't remember where we got it exactly, but somewhere online. European car part supplier...
how do you like the sachs ? why not KYB or Bilstein ?
I personally don’t drive the car but the price was right for those parts! It is my sisters car. It rides fine. As for durability probably not as good as Bilstein but the car most likely won’t live that long lol
rock auto (not a big fan) has Bilstein (oem basic version) for $45 each and rears are $37....even though it's not your car..ha ha
Sachs came VW factory in my car, 1996. They are for sure a quality product, not sure if better than Bilstein but trustable perfectly. By the way, i just replaced mine with Bilsteins at the front , found them a bit cheaper than Sachs and almost same price as Kyb(cheapest).
I may just need a boot kit, I get a loud pop when I turn the wheel parking.
Strut mount and bearing. Very common VW issue. Use OEM parts. They are the best
@@olsmokey5256 Thanks, will do, I have them waiting for me!
@@davekana8388 no worries
@@olsmokey5256 agreed, thanks again!
very good video....
Thanks!
Passage side ballpoint installed wrong!! Has to slip inside the lower conto arm not sit on top. Your going to have issues of u already haven't.
Good catch.
Very useful, thank you very much
Glad it was helpful!
how did your rotors get to look like that? Did it sit for a long time?
Same thing
What is " Rotors" ?
the hammering? we're you actually buying it with force in struggling with mine. also about how long were you sitting there hammering it?
It took me quite a bit of hammering. Try to push down on it like shown in the video and force it in all directions.
Tyler Ovens thanks bro. I'll keep at iy
Sykes-Pickavant Hub Clamp Spreader Tool use that...
TheInfamous88 lol you're late to the party. I've already finished. I would've taken to the shop by now if I couldn't haha but an allen key socket attachment did wonders in place of buying the spreader took. just fyi for future endeavors lol
@@OvensGarage Could of just punched a chisel into the clamp opening to spread it, but off course hearing this 4 years on is ot going to help you !
Thank you!
Top stuff!
Somebody may have commented on this but maybe include getting the bottom in. I’m still struggling to align the geometry correctly
what you do is: take a break bc you're 0robably seeing stars.. get a bite to eat, hydrate, have a beer, cu}cake w your bish (basically, anything mildly relaxing to take your mind off the autos for a bit).. return to auto, make observation of where best to begin where left off, plan procedure, and if all doesnt look or seem so 'geometrical' then that indicates that it's a green light to execute procedure..
@@vi8222 ...and I still hate VWs! Mechanically dumbest cars out of my fleet. Even the speaker replacement/upgrade has been made total pain in the balls. Just spent over half a day trying to get that bottom to fit, unsuccessfully, and in rain of course. Did i mention that I hate VWs...
Floor jack doesn’t work when re-Installing the strut, just causes everything to be fucked.
Dads
avoid 12 point wrenches
Great job, youtube magic, doesn't video the hard shit like getting the strut back in the upright or torquing down the upper strut nut.
You litteraly skip all the parts I needed to see
That’s to hard to do I’ll just take it to the shop