Generally for me the chainsaw piece has been the most effective legal way to do it. These are some great options though for when I run out. Nice video!
@@GameyRaccoon that's the OG method. Back in the days as a kid I sometimes even broke off the side ring and just used it standalone for reversal. Part number 4081a
Small note: When you're looking at the 6 orthogonal directions that two pieces can be pulled apart, you've been missing one direction and double-counting another. Moving object A to the left is the same action as moving object B to the right. The direction you've been forgetting to count is the (fairly trivial) one where the two objects are pushed through each other. So the joint at 6:30 really prevents movement in 5 of 6 directions.
It's videos like this that really make me appreciate how well crafted the Lego system is. They came up with a basic set of design principles that allow for a ton of creativity.
I think the real trick that makes so many parts work together is that it would appear the dimensions and angles of any new part are designed to only use curves, stud coordinates relative to the origin of a part, dimensions, etc. that line up with those in other parts. Like the curve-permitted version of a minecraft block grid. That means an unrelated dome might interlock with the curve of a sloping support piece.
You've invented LEGO french cleats! They're used in all sorts of woodworking projects, including holding up things like picture frames, flat-pack mobile scaffolding and shelving, and more!
I haven’t heard that term before, but i saw this and instantly thought about woodworking and all the different applications joints could be used to replicate and apply. Much to think about
Conversely, depending on the free space you have in your build, if you alternate / reverse arrange the 4 / 5 degree movement keys, you can prevent / limit the movement along that axis of movement
I kept screaming to take 2 of the original 4 way pieces, put them side by side in mirror orientation, and slap plates on to join em. But the final piece was essentially a much nicer version of that.
As a bit of a lego purist, seeing these techniques were a delight. Too often people resort to illegal connections, when the system allows you to build just about anything with fully legal connections, if you just put in the effort to figure out how.
My method has always been using axels / technic pins and just rotating the connecting bricks, but I understand a lot of people want to stay within the bricks and plates system.
When I was in the 4H Club, I made a Police Station out of Lego, and used 4 Tyco pieces to put a Baseplate on top as a Roof. And one of the other members said that my build should be invalidated because I was using Non-Lego along with Lego. He didn't get his way, and only him and I were entering Lego Builds as art pieces, and he'd been doing it for 2-3 years before I joined. But anyways, ever since then, that experience made me kinda salty about mixing Lego and Non-Lego in the same builds. However, I should revisit utilizing a mix of Tyco and Lego when I make any purpose builds in the future *such as Microphone Stands and the like)!
You can actually build in-system with a baseplate on top of a build like that; a baseplate resting on exposed studs is the exact same height as a plate, so you can just build around it.
I do wanna make this clear, only when the lego pieces are stressed into a spot is it an illegal building technique, if there is no stress placed on the pieces it is completely legal
non-lego player here, want to ask: based on that definition, is cheese and bucket handle technique actually illegal or just kinda-cursed-but-still-legal?
@@aloysiuskurnia7643 they are considered illegal since you can get the cheese slopes stuck in the bigger bricks if pushed too far in. An illegal technique isn't just about stress it's also about being modular. If it can't be separated it breaks that rule. I'm assuming the bucket handle stresses the plates which is why that's illegal.
Those building techniques are pretty nice. But I was slightly bothered by you counting pulling the outer plates apart as 2 different directions when it's really the same. The 6th direction would be pushing them together which is always blocked anyway, so talking about 5 directions would be sufficient.
Absolutely. If you count pulling 'left to the left' and 'right to the right' as separate motions, then 'left moved up' and 'right moved down' (etc) would also have to be counted as different (and their not), and you'd end up with 10 directions (each in a pair)
Usually, there are 6 degrees of freedom when talking about 3 dimensional systems of objects in mechanics, that being the x, y, z axes and rotation around each of those axes. But for the sake of this video, it was a nice way to get the idea across.
@@_.rainydays._ and also pushing together, for instance: if one had a gap in the middle that the other fit entirely through... They'd come apart with a force pushing past the other.
I agree, RUclips needs more analytical in depth content and less set reviews. That was the driving factor for making this channel. I was looking for this kind of stuff and couldn't find it out there. Thanks for your support I will try to keep them coming!
If you have the old hinge plates in your collection, you can use part 4276(a/b) with part 4275(a/b) or 2452 to reverse building directions. If you have the space for it, you could also use part 4315 with part 4213.
Yeah, those are my go-to. If you need thin, it's one plate thick only... though you do need to build on top of both sides to lock it in so it won't bend. But whatever you add doesn't need to be part of the "reversal" layer; it can be part of the rest of what you were building anyways. Comes in a lot of colors too if it matters, in variants (easy to spot in Bricklink Studio if you search hinge plate).
You can stop the sliding by building a square frame around the joint in the direction of one of the studs. Then on the other side, you add a large plate to cover up the bottom sides of the frame pieces.
Another simple method I often use is to take 2 of the 1x1x2/3 modified bricks and connect then with a 2l bar with ring. 3 pieces gives you a nice smooth 1x1x4/3 piece that's constrained in all directions. I've been loving your videos the last few days by the way. Great to see you exploring some lesser-used pieces in new ways
I have a question: Why are Lego themselves soooo incredibly reluctant of producing actual, dedicated stud reversal parts? What's wrong with producing a tile with studs on both sides? Lego seem to make everyone require creating elaborate SNOT assemblies to pull it off and I don't understand why
I believe it's good to keep it that way, as it not only encourages creativity but also it makes it less overwhelming for beginner builders Think about it, most people would rather start in a limited way, and as they become better they discover new techniques that unlock lot more potential for complex builds
In my dad's old stuff there's a few 2x2 "plates" (way thinner than a plate) from the 80s with studs on both sides, not sure if they're genuine Lego tho
Lego is all about creativity, making every single kind of connection you can think of into a piece kind of compromises that. It basically defeats the purpose of using Lego, because if you wanted to make something too complex to be done simply or with existing snot techniques then maybe you should just be using blender or cad lmfao
I absolutely found this video interesting, despite being more of a Technic guy who rarely uses bricks... These techniques for opposing studs are really neat, and well explained ! Thank you !
Good lord, everything leading up to them felt clever, but the final two bricks in particular felt like a blinding light bulb going off when you pulled them apart and started showing them off. Works of art!
tile reversals that slot in smoothly like this by definition need to have 1 direction that can easily be pulled out from (otherwise assembly has to be more complex than simply sliding in) the alternative is to make a wood block puzzle kinda deal, where you have to slot in several pieces at once and then rotate a final piece to lock it of course if assembly is by a lego attachment then sure all six can be covered. but basically, for every direction you can slot it in prebuilt, that's a direction that is relying on friction only.
My favorite technique is to use towball pieces. It's a little cumbersome to work around the joint and you have to use a few of them to keep things from rotating unintentionally, but they've got one major advantage: The connections are *right* in the middle of the plate vertically. Locking fingers, Technic axles/pins, rotation joints, ball-and-socket, all of them are offset by less than a plate so you can't quiiiiite align them properly - but not towball joints. A pair of brackets also works well - if you have a 1-tall bracket (has to be a 1-tall, the standard 2-talls will leave you half a plate off), then put a plate and another bracket coming off the first bracket, you'll end up with the face of the second bracket being exactly two plates off the bottom of the first bracket. Aligns perfectly.
These are very interesting solutions. I mainly build smaller vehicles and if I need to reverse studs, I typically use part 4276b with 4275b or 2452. Alternatively, 4085 connected upside down to the bar of 20482 does the trick as well. Although I guess neither truly qualifies as stud reversal using only regular plates and tiles…
Very neat stud reversal ideas! I never considered trying to build them with just plates and tiles; a fun challenge I've done a couple times is grabbing a random piece and trying to figure out how to use it for a stud reversal
You could also marry the two jumper plate methods at 4:52 and 5:15 and use a 6x2 plates to connect them (replacing the 6x1 plates running along the top and bottom of each. Also, you could make two of the first Key Method ones 1:28 flip one around so they prevent the other from moving and replace the outermost plates of each with one wider plate that covers both. Both these would have to be built up like at 9:37 or 10:29
I'm pretty sure you could do stud reversal that doesn't come apart if you just take two of 1x4 in the beggining and join them next to eachotwr with a 2x4 plate. They should block eachoter from separating.
How to turn the 1×4 connection into a all locked out version: add two of them side by side. Replace the 1×4s with 2×4s. . .the angle of the hooks will catch each other if you place them facing opposite directions (clockwise & counterclockwise)
Very satisfying! One could argue that any kind of stud reversal is illegal, but these definitely feel a lot more legal than the ones at the start. But I'm not a lego expert so I don't actually know what constitutes legal and illegal. Still, very cool!
9:02 it doesn’t have to get larger, make the tops of each side hang over off of the hook mechanism and then connect a plate under the overhang, locking them together
Couple more ideas: For a 1x2 version of the part you mentioned at 4:45, maybe the flat 1x1 with clip would work, or 1x1 with “tooth”. Also you could do a technic beam with a couple of those technic stud pins on each side.
you can probably build some kind of a spiral, which can still be disassembled by twisting two halves out of each other but in the listed 6 directions still holds up (and if twisting won't work because of the square nature of all tiles, then the assemble method still works)
If you admit non-Lego pieces and accept the bucket-handle method as a plate-only solution, the simplest and most space-efficient way is Cobi's brilliant tubelets.
Awesome video! Definitely interested to try this out with my own MOCs now! In particular, I think this could be really helpful for LEGO Minecraft building to get small structures that are perfectly smooth on all sides. Just replace the large plates on the top and bottom with tiles and make sure it's all five plates tall.
No idea what they’re called, but there are bricks and tiles that are meant to mesh together in order to create a sliding rail. I’ve used those to inverse my build directions before.
1:45 here i thought about, if you made two interior keys, reversed them and merged them with (2) 2x6 on top and bottom, you’d essentially make an alternate version of your later concept. Giving another option depending on available pieces
I'm not into lego as i never had the money to have a lot of pieces to make my own creations with but it was fascinating to me discovering this, great video!
I've very rarely used legos, and I've never watched any lego videos... Why was this on my RUclips Home page? Not that I'm complaining, was an interesting video.
The new 3x3 plate with 2x2 cutout (bigger L piece than the 2x2) seems good for building a corner version of this, which could be good for fitting it into something with thin walls.
instead of doubling the width of the whole thing couldnt you do a second layer but make it slide together slightly differently so if you stack the two layers next to eachother and connect them with bricks on top and bottom they wouldnt be able to slide because they key together differently so they would block each other from sliding
Cobi makes some pretty baller tiles that are studded on both sides. I know lots of people are Lego purists, but cobi uses pretty much the same plastic, and is locally produced in Poland (EU) so you don’t really have to worry about its quality (which is good)
Cool ideas. One note - I think there are only 5 ways for the parts to separate. What you're calling "5" and "6" are identical (moving directly away from each other in the "outward" direction). In other words, there's no way they could be locked in direction "5" but not "6."
I feel like the locking in most but not all directions can be used intentionally to design builds that are modular. (i.e. to take the roof off a build when designing the interior. Or to make designing individual sections of a build easier.)
Some other legal stud reversals include of course using the 1x1 brick with studs on opposite sides, or with studs on four sides. 1x2 brick with studs on opposite sides, I think there's even a 1x2x2 version. Of course the old 2x4x2 brick with 8 studs on each side, and also a version with tubes on the sides. Those are all kinda obvious, they're just one brick. Another technique I like is to use say, a 1x2 brick with studs on one side, a 1x2 plate under it, and then a 1x2 SNOT bracket facing the other way. The thickness between the reversed studs is exactly one brick, so it's pretty compact.
These are really clever and really simple, never even considered this, always too distracted trying to do it with complicated bracket pieces and such lol, good work Wonder if this technique has ever showed up in an actual set?
I remember Lego actually used a similar method for a secret collapsible wall or something in one of the sets that I had when I was a child. I think it was a castle or something similar maybe, I don't remember too well. Maybe Ninjago?
Here's a thought for the 4x4 reversal; Layer 1: Take a 4x4 plate, place it face down. Layer 2: Attach (2) 1x4 plates face down, 1 across the top row and 1 across the bottom row. I don't know the name for the 1x4s that have a stud on each end but leave the middle as a flat tile, so I'm calling them a quibble. Take (2) quibbles face up and rest them between the 1x4 plates, obviously unattached. That completes layer 2. Layer 3: Attach (2) 1x4 plates face up, 1 oriented vertically on the right side, and 1 oriented vertically on the left side. These attach to the 2 quibble studs on the right side and left side respectively. Then similarly to layer 2, place (2) quibbles, this time face down, oriented vertically between the 1x4 plates and attach then to the top and bottom 1x4 plates that are face down on layer 2. That completes layer 3. Layer 4: Now you should be able to attach a 4x4 plate face up to the (2) 1x4 plates on layer 3. This should be a fully symmetrically locked in place 4x4 reversal. If they make 2x4 quibbles, use those instead of (2) 1x4 quibbles in layers 2 and 3.
It's probably possible to make one of these joints that rotates into place instead of sliding into place using rounded corner tiles(especially because rounded corner tiles now exist in all sizes between 1x1 and 4x4). I bet it could be used for an interesting play feature.
Two blocks in tension is only one degree of freedom, not two. The opposing degree of freedom would be compression. Further, you need to also consider 3 (or 6) additional degrees of freedom - rotation. E.G. the 2x1 jumper plate with the 1x1 plate (or brick or 1x1 round plate, etc) will be able to rotate axial to the stud. A 2x1 jumper plate will be weak in one of the axes perpendicular to to the stud, and a 2x2 jumper plate will be weak in all directions (not just the two primary perpendicular orientations - all directions).
5:40 If you count the first two as different motions, then you should also count all the others two times, once for holding the right hand still while moving the left hand and another time for holding the left hand still while moving the right hand, giving a total of 10 motions. On the other hand, the first two should probably be considered as the same motion. Imagine that one of them fails in a build, that is having one side fixed very tight to one place and something pulls from the other side such that the construction breaks apart. Then also the other will obviously fail. So for the application at hand, it makes more sense to count them as one motion as you did with the remaining four, giving then a total of 5 motions.
You counted moving the plates away from each other twice. The actual sixth direction is pushing them towards each other. Which means even if you just have two plates facing opposite directions with nothing to hold them, they're still blocked in one direction, and the one you made where they can only be pulled apart is blocked in 5/6 directions, not 4/6.
Awesome job! Now I want to find ways to use these. Next challenge... will these also work with the anti-studs facing out? Dang, now I need to run home to play with my Lego, lol.
Did you take mechanical engineering in college? Lego pushed me to do that, and I can tell that you're clearly way smarter than I am, because you're basically rediscovering the wheel in every video. That "how two parts can move relative to one another" is a fundamental part to mechanical design and their ARE 6 degrees of motion, but they are translation in x, y, z and ROTATION around xyz. This is important any time you need to attach two parts together in a way that is repeatable and doesn't stress the part (or maybe you WANT hyperstaticity) With Lego, it's often fine to ignore rotation, and the manufacturing tolerances are so good and the medium is plastic, so you don't need to worry about things like drilling a hole with a location of +-0,05mm
It was a lot of fun to experiment with this. No I have never studied engineering and math isn't my strong suite I still have nightmares about Calculus in college lol. I have always been very good with my hands and building and knowing how things work no matter how simple they are. I credit most of it to the amount if time I spent with LEGO as a child. Nothing beats practice and experience. Thanks fir watching I'm glad you enjoyed it!
@@bricksculpt I think that you just inspired me to make a series on mechanical engineering for people who don't like math. The thing is, it's not complicated. it's just focusing what most people know intuitively. Archimedes wadn't a genius for inventing the fulcrum, he was a genius for writing it down and being able to explain the concept to someone who didn't figure it out yet. People always knew to use a long stick if you want to move a boulder
I actually think this method being able to slide apart could be used in some cool ways. Maybe someone could use this stud reversal and only let part of it slide two studs in one direction for a secret staircase.
Great video! But wouldn't the directions of pulling only be 6? What kind of mechanism would change you if you pulled apart keeping in place one piece rather than the other?
I just published a response video(short) with two more ways to reverse the building direction. I found these after watching your video. They are both two plates thick. One is 3x3 and locked in all but one direction and the other is 4x4 and locked in all directions.
Now you have me wondering about the lock method with minifig display plates, the ones with the 4 in a row studs? I have a fair number that I don't need as display bases...
Generally for me the chainsaw piece has been the most effective legal way to do it. These are some great options though for when I run out. Nice video!
Thats a good one I have never thought to use those for stud reversal but i can see how that would work well.
i generally use 1x1 modified plates with side ring.
What's more, those giant Lego Minecraft figures came with giant pickaxe and swords of the same thickness
@@GameyRaccoon that's the OG method. Back in the days as a kid I sometimes even broke off the side ring and just used it standalone for reversal. Part number 4081a
LEGO uses the "knob stone" 2434 for this sometimes.
Small note: When you're looking at the 6 orthogonal directions that two pieces can be pulled apart, you've been missing one direction and double-counting another. Moving object A to the left is the same action as moving object B to the right. The direction you've been forgetting to count is the (fairly trivial) one where the two objects are pushed through each other. So the joint at 6:30 really prevents movement in 5 of 6 directions.
Yes yes yes someone finally explained it correct! I've been waiting for this reply thanks!
Beat me to it! Nice explanation
Thank you this was pissing me off so much
also what about rotation?
@@bricksculptthe same applies to shearing them apart vertically and horizontally though, giving us 4 total ‘directions’ ?
It's videos like this that really make me appreciate how well crafted the Lego system is. They came up with a basic set of design principles that allow for a ton of creativity.
They only changed an already existing system. Lego didn't invent the bricks themselves.
Couldn't agree more!
I think the real trick that makes so many parts work together is that it would appear the dimensions and angles of any new part are designed to only use curves, stud coordinates relative to the origin of a part, dimensions, etc. that line up with those in other parts. Like the curve-permitted version of a minecraft block grid. That means an unrelated dome might interlock with the curve of a sloping support piece.
@@xyoxus they took a basic system and made it better.
You've invented LEGO french cleats! They're used in all sorts of woodworking projects, including holding up things like picture frames, flat-pack mobile scaffolding and shelving, and more!
Yeah basically lol
I haven’t heard that term before, but i saw this and instantly thought about woodworking and all the different applications joints could be used to replicate and apply. Much to think about
also reminds me of chinese joinery
oh and burr puzzles
I haven't played with Lego in years, but the engineering on display in this video is really impressive.
Thanks!
Conversely, depending on the free space you have in your build, if you alternate / reverse arrange the 4 / 5 degree movement keys, you can prevent / limit the movement along that axis of movement
Yeah I didn't think of that! Thanks
I kept screaming to take 2 of the original 4 way pieces, put them side by side in mirror orientation, and slap plates on to join em. But the final piece was essentially a much nicer version of that.
As a bit of a lego purist, seeing these techniques were a delight.
Too often people resort to illegal connections, when the system allows you to build just about anything with fully legal connections, if you just put in the effort to figure out how.
100% agree
My method has always been using axels / technic pins and just rotating the connecting bricks, but I understand a lot of people want to stay within the bricks and plates system.
Hey that works
I love locking pieces together.
Me too
Me too!
Me too!!
@@reversecard5196 Me too!!!
good news! that's what lego is all about
When I was in the 4H Club, I made a Police Station out of Lego, and used 4 Tyco pieces to put a Baseplate on top as a Roof. And one of the other members said that my build should be invalidated because I was using Non-Lego along with Lego. He didn't get his way, and only him and I were entering Lego Builds as art pieces, and he'd been doing it for 2-3 years before I joined. But anyways, ever since then, that experience made me kinda salty about mixing Lego and Non-Lego in the same builds. However, I should revisit utilizing a mix of Tyco and Lego when I make any purpose builds in the future *such as Microphone Stands and the like)!
I don't mind when people mix, I don't but it doesn't brother me.
You can actually build in-system with a baseplate on top of a build like that; a baseplate resting on exposed studs is the exact same height as a plate, so you can just build around it.
I do wanna make this clear, only when the lego pieces are stressed into a spot is it an illegal building technique, if there is no stress placed on the pieces it is completely legal
non-lego player here, want to ask: based on that definition, is cheese and bucket handle technique actually illegal or just kinda-cursed-but-still-legal?
@@aloysiuskurnia7643 they are considered illegal since you can get the cheese slopes stuck in the bigger bricks if pushed too far in. An illegal technique isn't just about stress it's also about being modular. If it can't be separated it breaks that rule. I'm assuming the bucket handle stresses the plates which is why that's illegal.
@@failuretocomply3 I did forget about that
@@aloysiuskurnia7643 as the other person said I'm actually not sure about the bucket handle but I would assume the same
Ease of building and stability are also key factors in determining legality, not just stress.
Those building techniques are pretty nice. But I was slightly bothered by you counting pulling the outer plates apart as 2 different directions when it's really the same. The 6th direction would be pushing them together which is always blocked anyway, so talking about 5 directions would be sufficient.
Absolutely. If you count pulling 'left to the left' and 'right to the right' as separate motions, then 'left moved up' and 'right moved down' (etc) would also have to be counted as different (and their not), and you'd end up with 10 directions (each in a pair)
Usually, there are 6 degrees of freedom when talking about 3 dimensional systems of objects in mechanics, that being the x, y, z axes and rotation around each of those axes. But for the sake of this video, it was a nice way to get the idea across.
in my opinion theres only three: vertical slide, horizontal slide, and pulling them apart
@@_.rainydays._ and also pushing together, for instance: if one had a gap in the middle that the other fit entirely through... They'd come apart with a force pushing past the other.
Sliding is also a good option, since there are times when you might want to "dock" a smaller one to something bigger
Great content! Exactly the kind of thing I want to see, that other Lego RUclipsrs aren’t doing. Technique FTW!
I agree, RUclips needs more analytical in depth content and less set reviews. That was the driving factor for making this channel. I was looking for this kind of stuff and couldn't find it out there. Thanks for your support I will try to keep them coming!
If you have the old hinge plates in your collection, you can use part 4276(a/b) with part 4275(a/b) or 2452 to reverse building directions. If you have the space for it, you could also use part 4315 with part 4213.
Yeah, those are my go-to. If you need thin, it's one plate thick only... though you do need to build on top of both sides to lock it in so it won't bend. But whatever you add doesn't need to be part of the "reversal" layer; it can be part of the rest of what you were building anyways. Comes in a lot of colors too if it matters, in variants (easy to spot in Bricklink Studio if you search hinge plate).
You can stop the sliding by building a square frame around the joint in the direction of one of the studs. Then on the other side, you add a large plate to cover up the bottom sides of the frame pieces.
This is amazing! You were explaining it so well that I was watching in anticipation of what comes next.
Thank you so much!
Another simple method I often use is to take 2 of the 1x1x2/3 modified bricks and connect then with a 2l bar with ring. 3 pieces gives you a nice smooth 1x1x4/3 piece that's constrained in all directions. I've been loving your videos the last few days by the way. Great to see you exploring some lesser-used pieces in new ways
That's a great tip. I'm glad you have been enjoying the content!
Dude invented japanese joinery for lego
I have a question: Why are Lego themselves soooo incredibly reluctant of producing actual, dedicated stud reversal parts? What's wrong with producing a tile with studs on both sides? Lego seem to make everyone require creating elaborate SNOT assemblies to pull it off and I don't understand why
Creativity.
I believe it's good to keep it that way, as it not only encourages creativity but also it makes it less overwhelming for beginner builders
Think about it, most people would rather start in a limited way, and as they become better they discover new techniques that unlock lot more potential for complex builds
In my dad's old stuff there's a few 2x2 "plates" (way thinner than a plate) from the 80s with studs on both sides, not sure if they're genuine Lego tho
Lego is all about creativity, making every single kind of connection you can think of into a piece kind of compromises that. It basically defeats the purpose of using Lego, because if you wanted to make something too complex to be done simply or with existing snot techniques then maybe you should just be using blender or cad lmfao
@@glyfleball That argument doesn't work, Lego produces dozens of extremely specialised pieces, much more so than a double sided tile would be
I absolutely found this video interesting, despite being more of a Technic guy who rarely uses bricks... These techniques for opposing studs are really neat, and well explained ! Thank you !
You're welcome
This kind of design really reminds me of Sashimono, the Japanese woodwork that uses only friction. Really cool stuff!!
Yeah I agree. Thanks!
Good lord, everything leading up to them felt clever, but the final two bricks in particular felt like a blinding light bulb going off when you pulled them apart and started showing them off. Works of art!
Thank you so much!
tile reversals that slot in smoothly like this by definition need to have 1 direction that can easily be pulled out from (otherwise assembly has to be more complex than simply sliding in)
the alternative is to make a wood block puzzle kinda deal, where you have to slot in several pieces at once and then rotate a final piece to lock it
of course if assembly is by a lego attachment then sure all six can be covered. but basically, for every direction you can slot it in prebuilt, that's a direction that is relying on friction only.
This is one of your most practical videos yet.
Gonna get a lot of use out of these techniques!
Thanks so much. I'm glad you found it useful!
"I got thinking last night" got me excited, but this is Just brilliant!
Thank you so much!
This is real satisfying
My favorite technique is to use towball pieces. It's a little cumbersome to work around the joint and you have to use a few of them to keep things from rotating unintentionally, but they've got one major advantage: The connections are *right* in the middle of the plate vertically. Locking fingers, Technic axles/pins, rotation joints, ball-and-socket, all of them are offset by less than a plate so you can't quiiiiite align them properly - but not towball joints.
A pair of brackets also works well - if you have a 1-tall bracket (has to be a 1-tall, the standard 2-talls will leave you half a plate off), then put a plate and another bracket coming off the first bracket, you'll end up with the face of the second bracket being exactly two plates off the bottom of the first bracket. Aligns perfectly.
Lots of good tip there. Thanks for sharing.
These are very interesting solutions. I mainly build smaller vehicles and if I need to reverse studs, I typically use part 4276b with 4275b or 2452. Alternatively, 4085 connected upside down to the bar of 20482 does the trick as well. Although I guess neither truly qualifies as stud reversal using only regular plates and tiles…
Very neat stud reversal ideas! I never considered trying to build them with just plates and tiles; a fun challenge I've done a couple times is grabbing a random piece and trying to figure out how to use it for a stud reversal
Thanks!
Lego engineers will have a field day creating lock mechanisms with this
what an incredible video thesis, great work!
Thanks a lot!
The five six plate seems like a cool way to do a detaching section on a spaceship, like sticking th command pod on the thrusters with that.
That sounds like a cool idea!
You could also marry the two jumper plate methods at 4:52 and 5:15 and use a 6x2 plates to connect them (replacing the 6x1 plates running along the top and bottom of each.
Also, you could make two of the first Key Method ones 1:28 flip one around so they prevent the other from moving and replace the outermost plates of each with one wider plate that covers both.
Both these would have to be built up like at 9:37 or 10:29
Lots of good ideas!
I didn’t except the video to be this exciting 😂
Exhilarating right 😆
The side to side movement could be incorporated as a feature too - building a slot through which the reversed piece can move smoothly.
I'm pretty sure you could do stud reversal that doesn't come apart if you just take two of 1x4 in the beggining and join them next to eachotwr with a 2x4 plate. They should block eachoter from separating.
Yep that works!
How to turn the 1×4 connection into a all locked out version: add two of them side by side. Replace the 1×4s with 2×4s. . .the angle of the hooks will catch each other if you place them facing opposite directions (clockwise & counterclockwise)
Covered that in part 2
Very satisfying!
One could argue that any kind of stud reversal is illegal, but these definitely feel a lot more legal than the ones at the start.
But I'm not a lego expert so I don't actually know what constitutes legal and illegal. Still, very cool!
9:02 it doesn’t have to get larger, make the tops of each side hang over off of the hook mechanism and then connect a plate under the overhang, locking them together
Couple more ideas:
For a 1x2 version of the part you mentioned at 4:45, maybe the flat 1x1 with clip would work, or 1x1 with “tooth”.
Also you could do a technic beam with a couple of those technic stud pins on each side.
Yeah good ideas there's so many ways to do stud reversal I just wanted to try with plates and tiles only.
you can probably build some kind of a spiral, which can still be disassembled by twisting two halves out of each other but in the listed 6 directions still holds up (and if twisting won't work because of the square nature of all tiles, then the assemble method still works)
Sounds interesting
If you admit non-Lego pieces and accept the bucket-handle method as a plate-only solution, the simplest and most space-efficient way is Cobi's brilliant tubelets.
Yeah. I don't branch outside of LEGO. I know a lot of people do but I dont.
you mean the half tubes you can apply into anti-studs? Yeah that's a pretty nifty method.
My favorite alt pieces are the double studded tiles that come in Bluebrixx/Xingbao
HERESY
You sir are an engineer! And the presentation is great, the followalong of you discovering new ways to solve your problem was very enjoyable to watch
Thank you so much!
Agree. Love following along with your trial and error. 👍
Thanks
Some really creative solutions here!
Thanks!
That's pretty cool; I can see applications in underground environments such as caverns and mines.
Yeah that would be cool
Great methods! The last few looked like logic puzzles so maybe a combination of multiple of these builds could make for a cool desk topper
Lol I was thinking the same thing
by using 4 gray pieces from 7:09 you can create 4x4 4 plates thick reversal by linking them like a chain to make all 6 direction lock.
Yeah covered it in part 2!
you can lock the two together if you think in the 3rd dimension and build a cage to hold it from slipping out of place after you slide them together.
Yes I like that idea
I love that pocket joint!
Thanks
I haven't seen this method before, this is really cool!
Thanks!
I have some tube studs from an offbrand set.
They are really useful for connect antistud to antistud
Yes I've seen those
Watching this is a nice brain stretch, good build.
Glad you like it!
Brilliant - I would never have imagined those to be possible!
Thanks
Awesome video! Definitely interested to try this out with my own MOCs now! In particular, I think this could be really helpful for LEGO Minecraft building to get small structures that are perfectly smooth on all sides. Just replace the large plates on the top and bottom with tiles and make sure it's all five plates tall.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks!
No idea what they’re called, but there are bricks and tiles that are meant to mesh together in order to create a sliding rail. I’ve used those to inverse my build directions before.
Congratulations, you have arrived at NEXT LEVEL LEGO!
Lol thanks!
This is killler stuff! Great content man.
Thank you soo much!
1:45 here i thought about, if you made two interior keys, reversed them and merged them with (2) 2x6 on top and bottom, you’d essentially make an alternate version of your later concept. Giving another option depending on available pieces
Yeah I covered that in part 2!
@@bricksculpt you did a part 2? Awesome!! Definitely glad i found your channel
I'm glad you found it also. Thanks for watching!
These videos are excellent tutorials. Keep up the great work.
Thanks, will do!
I'm not into lego as i never had the money to have a lot of pieces to make my own creations with but it was fascinating to me discovering this, great video!
Thanks! Im Glad you enjoyed it. Also it's never to late to start collecting LEGO!
Thanks! Im Glad you enjoyed it. Also it's never to late to start collecting LEGO!
Thanks! Im Glad you enjoyed it. Also it's never to late to start collecting LEGO!
Fantastic, can't wait to try it out myself
I have no clue how this got recommended, but this is very very clever! Will be checking out your channel for sure.
Awesome! Thank you!
I've very rarely used legos, and I've never watched any lego videos... Why was this on my RUclips Home page? Not that I'm complaining, was an interesting video.
this sliding is really cool though, I easily imagine a building using it for some very tight mechanism
Yeah there's a lot you can do with the slide. Maybe another video.
The new 3x3 plate with 2x2 cutout (bigger L piece than the 2x2) seems good for building a corner version of this, which could be good for fitting it into something with thin walls.
You can always make two 1 wide versions, mirror one, and replace the top plate with a 2 wide one
instead of doubling the width of the whole thing couldnt you do a second layer but make it slide together slightly differently so if you stack the two layers next to eachother and connect them with bricks on top and bottom they wouldnt be able to slide because they key together differently so they would block each other from sliding
Cobi makes some pretty baller tiles that are studded on both sides. I know lots of people are Lego purists, but cobi uses pretty much the same plastic, and is locally produced in Poland (EU) so you don’t really have to worry about its quality (which is good)
Now I wanna see stud on the side techniques using only plates and tiles
Ohhhh yeah I could do that!
Cool ideas. One note - I think there are only 5 ways for the parts to separate. What you're calling "5" and "6" are identical (moving directly away from each other in the "outward" direction). In other words, there's no way they could be locked in direction "5" but not "6."
Yes there is 6. The last one can travel through the other one. Video on this coming soon.
@@bricksculpt Oh interesting! So, in that case, your "key" slides along the same axis as the studs.
Yes
If you put two keys together in opposite directions with a 2 by 4 plate it would lock it in with no wiggle room
You blew my mind. Good stuff!!
Glad you liked it!
I could see this being used with 1x1 semicircle tiles to make opening car doors
I feel like the locking in most but not all directions can be used intentionally to design builds that are modular. (i.e. to take the roof off a build when designing the interior. Or to make designing individual sections of a build easier.)
Yes I agree it makes for a sliding action.
Some other legal stud reversals include of course using the 1x1 brick with studs on opposite sides, or with studs on four sides. 1x2 brick with studs on opposite sides, I think there's even a 1x2x2 version. Of course the old 2x4x2 brick with 8 studs on each side, and also a version with tubes on the sides. Those are all kinda obvious, they're just one brick. Another technique I like is to use say, a 1x2 brick with studs on one side, a 1x2 plate under it, and then a 1x2 SNOT bracket facing the other way. The thickness between the reversed studs is exactly one brick, so it's pretty compact.
Lots of good tips!
These are really clever and really simple, never even considered this, always too distracted trying to do it with complicated bracket pieces and such lol, good work
Wonder if this technique has ever showed up in an actual set?
Thanks! I haven't seen it in a set but I wouldn't be surprised.
You can stop the side to side problem by making it 2 wide and flipping around the cutouts, then just placing a 2x6 plate on top
Yeah that would work well!
Love your content, keep it comin! Maybe applications and/examples for how to use these?
I will see what I can do. I honestly do use stud reversal very often but I know many people do.
I remember Lego actually used a similar method for a secret collapsible wall or something in one of the sets that I had when I was a child. I think it was a castle or something similar maybe, I don't remember too well. Maybe Ninjago?
You can use snot pieces on the sides to lock them and give you 4 way studs
I like that!
Absolutely brilliant video
Glad you enjoyed it thank you so much!
Here's a thought for the 4x4 reversal;
Layer 1: Take a 4x4 plate, place it face down.
Layer 2: Attach (2) 1x4 plates face down, 1 across the top row and 1 across the bottom row. I don't know the name for the 1x4s that have a stud on each end but leave the middle as a flat tile, so I'm calling them a quibble. Take (2) quibbles face up and rest them between the 1x4 plates, obviously unattached. That completes layer 2.
Layer 3: Attach (2) 1x4 plates face up, 1 oriented vertically on the right side, and 1 oriented vertically on the left side. These attach to the 2 quibble studs on the right side and left side respectively. Then similarly to layer 2, place (2) quibbles, this time face down, oriented vertically between the 1x4 plates and attach then to the top and bottom 1x4 plates that are face down on layer 2. That completes layer 3.
Layer 4: Now you should be able to attach a 4x4 plate face up to the (2) 1x4 plates on layer 3. This should be a fully symmetrically locked in place 4x4 reversal. If they make 2x4 quibbles, use those instead of (2) 1x4 quibbles in layers 2 and 3.
Yeah that's a good one thanks for adding this.
It's probably possible to make one of these joints that rotates into place instead of sliding into place using rounded corner tiles(especially because rounded corner tiles now exist in all sizes between 1x1 and 4x4). I bet it could be used for an interesting play feature.
That sounds fun and hard to do.
@@bricksculpt i think it would be very similar to your pocket design except curved.
This reminds me of sashimono.
No glue, no screw, just nicely shaped things fitting together
Yes! I'm also a woodworker
@@bricksculpt 👍 nice
Thanks for sharing these amazing techniques!
You are so welcome!
Two blocks in tension is only one degree of freedom, not two. The opposing degree of freedom would be compression. Further, you need to also consider 3 (or 6) additional degrees of freedom - rotation. E.G. the 2x1 jumper plate with the 1x1 plate (or brick or 1x1 round plate, etc) will be able to rotate axial to the stud. A 2x1 jumper plate will be weak in one of the axes perpendicular to to the stud, and a 2x2 jumper plate will be weak in all directions (not just the two primary perpendicular orientations - all directions).
Watch my follow up video I explain it better
I been using the bricks with groove as they work well with the jumpers to slide right in. This does make them 3 brick wide though.
Yeah those work well
5:40 If you count the first two as different motions, then you should also count all the others two times, once for holding the right hand still while moving the left hand and another time for holding the left hand still while moving the right hand, giving a total of 10 motions.
On the other hand, the first two should probably be considered as the same motion. Imagine that one of them fails in a build, that is having one side fixed very tight to one place and something pulls from the other side such that the construction breaks apart. Then also the other will obviously fail. So for the application at hand, it makes more sense to count them as one motion as you did with the remaining four, giving then a total of 5 motions.
Yeah I think it's only 5
You counted moving the plates away from each other twice. The actual sixth direction is pushing them towards each other. Which means even if you just have two plates facing opposite directions with nothing to hold them, they're still blocked in one direction, and the one you made where they can only be pulled apart is blocked in 5/6 directions, not 4/6.
WTF this is genius, why haven't I seen this before
Thank you!
This is just amazing.
Thanks!
Awesome job! Now I want to find ways to use these. Next challenge... will these also work with the anti-studs facing out? Dang, now I need to run home to play with my Lego, lol.
I guess I need to do a antistud one now lol.
Did you take mechanical engineering in college? Lego pushed me to do that, and I can tell that you're clearly way smarter than I am, because you're basically rediscovering the wheel in every video.
That "how two parts can move relative to one another" is a fundamental part to mechanical design and their ARE 6 degrees of motion, but they are translation in x, y, z and ROTATION around xyz.
This is important any time you need to attach two parts together in a way that is repeatable and doesn't stress the part (or maybe you WANT hyperstaticity)
With Lego, it's often fine to ignore rotation, and the manufacturing tolerances are so good and the medium is plastic, so you don't need to worry about things like drilling a hole with a location of +-0,05mm
It was a lot of fun to experiment with this. No I have never studied engineering and math isn't my strong suite I still have nightmares about Calculus in college lol. I have always been very good with my hands and building and knowing how things work no matter how simple they are. I credit most of it to the amount if time I spent with LEGO as a child. Nothing beats practice and experience. Thanks fir watching I'm glad you enjoyed it!
@@bricksculpt I think that you just inspired me to make a series on mechanical engineering for people who don't like math.
The thing is, it's not complicated. it's just focusing what most people know intuitively. Archimedes wadn't a genius for inventing the fulcrum, he was a genius for writing it down and being able to explain the concept to someone who didn't figure it out yet. People always knew to use a long stick if you want to move a boulder
Love it
I actually think this method being able to slide apart could be used in some cool ways. Maybe someone could use this stud reversal and only let part of it slide two studs in one direction for a secret staircase.
I like that
There are laws of lego? And I thought I was living in lego anarchy. Who is the lego king?
It's not a monarchy I thought everyone knew that! Lego leaders are elected in democratic elections.
Great video! But wouldn't the directions of pulling only be 6? What kind of mechanism would change you if you pulled apart keeping in place one piece rather than the other?
Not totally sure it might just be 5. I just figured six possible directions, so six motions.
I just published a response video(short) with two more ways to reverse the building direction. I found these after watching your video. They are both two plates thick. One is 3x3 and locked in all but one direction and the other is 4x4 and locked in all directions.
I saw this and it was really cool! Definitely worth a watch!!
take the 1 stud wide tan way take another one flip it and put them together with the top and bottom plates being 2 wide
Covered that in part 2!
Now you have me wondering about the lock method with minifig display plates, the ones with the 4 in a row studs? I have a fair number that I don't need as display bases...
Yeah I did it with those too. They work great for a bigger plate reversal.