I could listen to you all day sir. I’m currently sat with a Cuban and a bottle of German import listening to some of your videos. A true gent. Best regards from the UK
Sir, I have to say, your practicle & real life solutions & experience are invaluable, you have no idea how much help your knowledge base is, thanks for sharing your info with us,
Speaking from long experience with astronomical telescopes, your eye's pupil has a diameter of about 2mm (in bright light) to about 7mm (in dim light). Younger, healthier people may even go up to 8mm, but as you age your maximum pupil diameter goes down. A telescope has an "exit pupil" which is the diameter of the light exiting the scope. Exit pupil is objective size / magnification. If you have a 3-10x42mm scope, at high power the exit pupil is 42/10 = 4.2mm. When the light is low, and your eye's pupil is 7mm, the light from the scope is still limited to 4.2mm, so it looks very dim. If you reduce magnification to 6x, the exit pupil is not 42/6 = 7mm, and the image looks as bright as the surroundings to you. Reducing magnification further, to 3x, gives an exit pupil of 42/3 = 14mm, but since your eye's pupil is only 7mm, your eye is the limiting factor, and the image won't look any brighter. In bright daylight your pupil may be only 2mm, so your eye is the limiting factor and the image through the scope looks bright at all magnifications.
I've found adjustable parallax is most useful in small game hunting. With how close you can be, an accurate shot is nice with clear focus. Good info gunblue.
Thank you. There are two approaches to that issue. AO is one, as with my Hawke scope. Leupold (and presumably others) non-AO rimfire scopes are parallax corrected to 60 yards, and are exceptionally accurate at all rimfire distances, combined with very fine crosshairs, are very compact and scaled to smaller rifles. Check out my CZ457 videos.
I want to thank you for the wonderful videos you have produced. I learned how to reload from your videos. Thank you so much for taking the time to make so many informative videos. God Bless You and family.
You are an absolute blessing to this world man. Just found out your channel by seeing your video titled ‘How To Shoot a Rifle ~ Classic Military Shooting Positions’, and the quality of your teaching is unmatched on RUclips. Thank you
I've done a fair amount of testing with high magnification scopes mounted on .22LR and found that power settings have virtually no effect on accuracy at 25 yards. Whether using 4x or 36x, the group size and placement does not change worth a whit. Frankly, the lower power settings are much easier to use because my image is far more stable. No doubt there is a limit to this effect, but at normal shooting distances out to 250 yards I would feel quite comfortable with a lowly fixed power 2x, 3x, or 4x scope.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, experience and expertise. I always look forward to learning more of the finer details from you. Peace and Love. 🇦🇺
The "5 ratio" is standard because the maximum dilation of the human pupil is 7mm, but it drops to 5mm as we age. Dividing the diameter of the objective lens by the power gives us the diameter of the exit pupil (the circle of light emanating from the ocular lens to strike the shooter's eye). Assume a 2x-10x scope with a 50mm objective: at 2x, the exit pupil is 25mm; at 5x, it's 10mm; at 10x, it's 5mm. A larger exit pupil than the human pupil can encompass doesn't increase brightness but does give more leeway in eye placement. Forward mounted scopes can appear dim because of the Inverse Square Law: the light reaching the shooter’s eye diminishes in proportion to the square of the distance. If the shooter’s eye is twice as far from the ocular lens of one scope than it is from another, all else being equal, the eye will receive not 1/2 the light from the more distant scope but 1/4 the light.
My favorite deer hunting or even close to mid range combat scope is my Leupold FX-II 4x33mm with a German #4 reticle and parallax set to 75 yards. Exceptionally good low light performance from the glass and the reticle, and it’s a very simple, light, compact scope that adds only minimal bulk to a rifle.
I use AO to figure the range to unknown targets. Because I never shoot very far, I doubt any holdover is required except with .22LR. With large objective bells I prefer stocks with high combs so I can maintain my cheekweld. Some of the newer bolt action rifles come with funky looking tactical stocks that do the job well.
I like to look at the objective lens as a funnel. The larger the funnel is, the more matter you can pour through it. In case it's light waves but the same scenario applies in my observation. I enjoy watching your videos tremendously! 👍
25yr LE vet here so I highly appreciate your videos. Also did the police sniper gig and competed in that venue (1994-2005 time frame). My personal experience, if this adds anything to the discussion, is: 1) Spend the money on the best glass one can afford. Commonly it’s more than the rifle. Same thing with the mounts. Schmidt & Bender PMII and a Spuhr one piece. 2) First focal plane. 3) Magnification dependent on mission first, play second. For me, greater magnification meant having an easier time for positive target ID. 4) Monster Objective. This is where buying good glass from a great manufacturer comes into play. That and 50mm (or more) of objective let’s that light come right on in-even at night. 5) Speaking of night, an illuminated reticle is nice. You may remember the days like I do where you taped up a mini calume (destroyed that spelling) stick and tried to illuminate just enough so you could see the reticles in pitch black without compromising your position. Enough of my babbling. Enjoy your work.
Thank you for your kind comments. As a former FBI trained sniper, sniper instructor, and having worked closely with Secret Service presidential protection teams, I recognize your DNA! You spent your taxpayers dollars very well, but most don't have stocks in S&B! While your recommendations are top notch for such competitive use atop a suitably adjustable comb rifle, such a unit has absolutely no purpose for field hunting use, nor would it be possible to attain a cheek weld on a sporter rifle comb with such height. Even department sniper rifles often get caught up in the competition role that is far beyond the actual field requirements of police sniper rifles. Even across the tarmac of a large airport, it's always possible to set up well within the inside working range of a flat shooting rifle. I digress. This series is entirely focussed on helping the uninitiated narrow the selection process for a scope that's suited to his or her needs, whether for target shooting or game hunting, but without sacrificing their childrens' food and education along with their marriage to fund their fun! 😉
I use fixed 4x for my .22 squirrel rifle and fixed 4x for my .44 mag deer rifle. I use these guns at 50 yards or less. I have a 2-7x on my .22 Hornet. I set it at 2x for night time hunting and 7 for daytime varmitting. My 7mm mag Elk rifle has a 4-12x with adjustable objective. I may use this gun for varmitting in the future.
Yes a lot of confusion in optics. I built my first telescope when I was 12. Helps to be able to see through the hog wash of advertisements.😂 A pun there!🤣
My go to favorite rifle scopes is the vx 3 scopes with the 3.5x10-40 mm objective in the Leupold . You can generally get them closer to the bore and you can find target’s fairly quickly with it on low power I don’t know why that the scopes have to change your socks in the morning and make coffee
The scope you mentioned is the one I had atop my Sako .22 rimfire that you can see in my thumbnail. It was formerly on my .300 Win. Mag. elk rifle. Yes, it is a good configuration, but simply too much low end power for anything I do. Thank you.
I would say exactly the same as the previous comment, with exception im in Europe and with a glass or cuba libre watching.... Great lessons in history, keep blessing us with experiexce and knowledge Would you be so kind to do a video on nightvision thermal monoculars for riffles ? Peace and health
Very clear presentation of the science & mechanics of an adjustable objective & light gathering. My purchase decision is becoming myre clear in focus 👍🏻
G-day good to to see you again it's been a while, and your still enjoying cigar good one, anyhow you take care my friend good video cheers ✌👍PS I Hope you and the family had a Merry Christmas and I wish you all a Happy New Year and turns out to a better one for us all God willing my friend take care ✌👍💚❤
I feel that adjustable parallax is most at home for ranging distance if you haven't got a rangefinder for rimfires and such. Also larger objectives are useful when hunting in low light that I don't believe might be the custom in the US. I have a 1-5x24 for regular hunting, a light 4-12x50 for longer range and smaller targets as well as a 7x56 with a thick number 1 reticle for night time hunting. None have illuminated reticles or adjustable parallax as for my use and preference that just adds dead weight.
In Australia & NZ you may shooting just after Sunrise , and just before Sunset with a dark bush background. The other issue is with the 'tactical' MOA and Mil scopes the reticle lines are so fine you cannot pick them up on this background.
@@thehopperhopes6365 Agreed, you need to buy used scopes if you want those types of reticles. In Sweden a lot of animals are hunted to an hour after sunset. Others are hunted around the clock.
I just target shoot and I do like more magnification than most. As such I tend to go for larger objectives to give a better image at the magnifications I use. I can happily shoot very small groups offhand at 15x but I wouldn't recommend that to others. I adjust down to 20yds for parallax.
Thank you for sharing your wisdom. I purchased a used Steyr model SL in .222 Remington primarily to teach my five grandchildren as their first exposure to centerfire rifles. I've watched many of your videos and subscribed years ago, and would like to ask whether an aperture sight or a fixed power scope is a good way to start? The rifle currently has non-adjustable iron sights, with the rear sight well forward of the receiver, but it's apparent it had a scope at one time. If a scope, I will follow your suggestion for a lower objective lens so my grandkids will be able to maintain a good cheek weld. Thank you.
For those who may be confused with the stay with 30,35,40 mm objectives, I say go to the range in broad daylight and shoot at 200 yards, then increase it for longer ranges in low light conditions. Then decide. I have a varmit rifle with 3-9x40 mm and longer range higher caliber rifles with larger magnifications and larger objectives. My favorite hunting scopes are 4-16x44mm (big game) and 3-12x56mm (hog/white tail). You get in very low light and want clarity on target zones and I cannot stand low magnification scopes. The x12 power with distance targets out here in the west is critical. Anyway, to each his own. There are times when a 40mm tube and 3-5 power is ok but most times for me having that large objective sitting on x12 is very important for shot placement. Heck, the dang reticle at the low power settings is bigger than the target at distance (not totally but gets the point across). And to add, every shooter has a unique set point on the stock; that is why competitive long range shooters have custom made butt stocks for them. Guaranteed my set point is different than most; been shooting and hunting for 50 years - one shot, one kill at all ranges in most conditions. One just needs to practice a lot under lots of field conditions. Standing stalk low power. Set up on the ridge with my bipod and .300 winmag on a 700+ yard shot in low light, the highest setting is coming out. I definitely do not pull my long range big magnums down hard tight in that cheek weld on camera - again, everyone is different in this regard. TOT will address any shooter's details of this.
The major contributor for low light clarity is lens coatings. Whether the lenses are coated on all surfaces makes a huge difference. Quality glass isn't cheap for making lenses. Lens coatings vary widely but the ones that allow maximum light to pass through the lens can be exotic and expensive. The coatings aren't just a dipping process but usually a vapor depositing process that requires expensive equipment. The best lenses in the world allow around 94-98% light transmission.
Hi , regarding the Adjustable objective advice I just tried a little experiment to see if i could get away by having a fixed parallax scope on my Air rifle . I adjusted the side focus on my Meopta scope to 100 yards and tried shooting a small dime sized circle at my normal zero range which is 30 yards at 6 x magnification. The point of impact was high and left by about 3/4 inches . When i correctly re set the side focus to 30 yards it was back on target shooting through the same hole. Just to clarify are your comments about not needing A/O geared towards larger game animals , centrefire rifles where a POI shift of about 3/4 inches would not matter too much . Kind regards
You can’t go wrong with Swarovski. The optical quality is phenomenal. I’ve been using Swarovski for years. Like anything in life you get what you pay for.
We had binoculars like the marine binos you showed when I was in the Navy just a few years ago when I served (2006-2012). We used them out in the ocean and the Persian Gulf. I served on an LSD and also on 34ft patrol crafts. I used those binos on both the ship and the small boats.
Exit Pupil: In daylight the human eye pupil has a diameter of 5mm. So you want your scope to have an exit pupil of 5. (Objective lens diameter divided by scope power-ie 35/7=5.) Any more than that is wasted money.
If you have a fixed Parallax scope and you need to defeat Parallax setup the scope so that you will HAVE scope shadow. Using the scope shadow ring allows you to ensure that eye is in the center of the scope on each shot. Push the scope forward slightly to begin seeing the scope shadow. You want enough shadow that you can see it all the way about the inside of the scope.
What is the difference between a scope designed for rimfire cartridges and one for centerfire cartridges? Is there a difference? This is something I've asked gun shops before. They don't have any idea even though some of the scopes they're selling are labeled that way. Thanks, much appreciate your videos!
Anyone selljng scopes behind a counter should understand the important significance, but you just gave me the topic of my next video! The differences are very, very important and fundamental, and have nothing to do with cost, though they are generally less money. Let me explain first what constitutes the centerfire scope. Fixed focus centerfire rifle scopes are parallax adjusted at the factory to 150 yards, and sometimes 100. Their crosshairs are also generally thick. Moreover, such scopes are typically large and heavy. A well designed dedicated rimfire scope is engineered from the drawing board for the rimfire cartridge and the rifles that shoot it. A good fixed power rimfire scope, such as made by Leupold, is parallax adjusted to 60 yards, which is the more appropriate midpoint of trajectory of a typical rimfire rifle, and provides a much more precise instrument for the smaller targets of a rimfire rifle on either side of 60 yards. Being off target by an inch or so at 40 yards with a big game rifle is nothing, but it's a sure miss on a squirrel. The crosshairs of a quality rimfire scope are also much finer, so that they don't obscure small targets and allow for more precise aiming. Thirdly, a quality rimfire scope is scaled down in size to better match the proportions of a rimfire rifle. Even my adult sized CZ457, is far lighter and slender compared to the mass of a centerfire rifle and its components. The things I've described apply to high quality rimfire scopes and have nothing to do with inferior, cheaply made scopes sold for rimfires, which typically feature none of the three qualities that I mentioned. An AO centerfire scope can be satisfactory on a .22 for its parallax compensation, but most will not focus at sufficiently close ranges, and are far more bulky, costly, and usually have thicker cross hairs, unless outfitted for varmints. I hope that answers your question! I'm appalled that a scope sales person can't articulate such incredibly important details.
Thank you for answering my question and doing it with a video as well. Your explanations made sense! You answered what I had in mind and so much more. I originally had bought a Leupold rim fire scope (2-7×magnification) for my marlin 39A golden mounty. After a few years I put it on a marlin 1894 in 44rem (1st gun I purchased at 18yrs!) for deer hunting without a thought as to if the extreme difference in recoil would damage the scope in any way. After a few years the thought did occur to me, but no one seemed able to really know if it would be a problem with continued use in this way. Didn't see any problems with accuracy. It was just nagging my thoughts. Something that needed to be addressed. Turns out it doesn't damage them! Your recent scope videos jogged that question again when you mentioned rimfire scopes. Very much appreciate those videos!
I don’t mind the extra weight that an Adjustable Parallax adds to the scope weight. Having fixed power scope and fixed parallax setting is okay. However, variable power scopes and an adjustable parallax go together like peas and carrots. You certainly are correct for hunting large animals. However, they are well worth the extra weight for load accuracy testing and more precise zero range settings. Your range settings become more defined shooting longer distances. If your zero is off an inch from center at 100-yards expect it to increase to two inches or more at 200-yards. It will worsen as the distance increase. Point Blank range setting may only be correct after testing the theory at the maximum point blank distance. The reason being is due to rifle weight, scope height and the effects of recoil. Trajectory charts are only estimated trajectories and not confirm ones. 🤔🦉✨
I'm not presenting my personal theories. I'm stating long established facts that I personally have confirmed from my own experience with many rifles, scopes, and at extended ranges. I was a rifle sniper instructor and was also sniper certified by the regional FBI SWAT instructor and have applied knowledge of scoped high power rifles and load testing since the mid 60s. AO and scopes are not peas in a pod. That's complete nonsense. You can visit my shooting capabilities with non-AO scoped rifles on this channel.
Given that Leupold has parallax set to 150 yards as you mentioned, is it beneficial in any way to sight in your rifle at 150 yards rather than 100 yards if you use a Leupold?
While they factory set parallax to an optimum 150 yards for the best average focus and focal point, that wouldn't be the best zero distance for most calibers, if any. My Leupold scopes exhibit very little parallax at the normal 100 yard line, even if my pupil is purposely off center. At distances beyond 100 yards, other factors come into play that cause greater problems. Increased wind influence, less defined target image, and the fact that sighting targets are made with MOA squares makes 100 yards the most convenient and mathematically suited for adjusting a scope. Trajectory height is easily computed at any range for whatever best suits the rifle's point blank trajectory. Non AO scopes have no parallax when the eye is centered, and less than half MOA if you purposely go off center.
Not really, at least for big game. The 150 yard parallax setting is a compromise, most people sight in @ 100 yards for a point blank 200 yard range zero, therefore it's halfway between the 2 ranges. A 1/4" shift in POI @ 200 yards due to parallax doesn't matter much on the 8" vital area of a deers chest.
I've shot them with all using .22s, pellet rifles, and shotguns with great success. The larger issue is bringing them to the dinner table with the least damage. Fur follows pellets into the hole and can really make an unappetizing situation, especially if several have struck, and each pellet causes bruising. I greatly prefer to place a single shot in the head with a .22 or pellet rifle. Of course, if you're hunting rabbits with a beagle, it's a running proposition that calls for a shotgun. They take very little to put them down, so 7/8 to an ounce of #6 is plenty, and will reduce shot count.
Tube size was enlarged primarily to allow for more adjustment of wind age and elevation. Scopes use a tube within a tube to see through and the turret adjustments move that inner tube with the reticle so a bigger outer tube diameter means more internal clearance so more clicks for adjustment. Also the 30mm tube is stronger than 1" tube because it can have slightly thicker walls. Same thing with a 34mm over a 30mm for strength.
If you get the chance to compare some scopes make sure you have one in a low range like 1.5-6x24mm roughly. Europeans hunt after dark often and many of their top scopes don't have large objectives just the end of the tube diameter. And many of those cost close to $2000 US. Does a big objective let in more light? Not really but lens coatings do. Best bang for your dollar is a used Leupold 1.5-5x24mm Vari-X III. Super rugged and one of the brightest low light scopes around. Lens coatings and glass quality rule the low light world.
I have never used a Burris scope, so I cannot make any comparisons. I can only say that, having owned many Leupold scopes since my first one in 1966, they are worthy of their reputation. I have not heard of any negatives of Burris scopes, but that's all I can say.
@@GunBlue490 the burris scopes are priced about half that of leupold, but burris does not offer their scopes with a regular cross hair or duplex, so i wont be buying a burris.
What I have learned that messed me up. I could not group well at 100 yards with a 3x9. I was trying to get that sub moa group. Then got a 4.4-14 and hated it while hunting
I hunt with a 3-12x40 mostly and don't have any trouble with the weight but I don't have a big hike in. I like having a little extra power that I probably won't need but have if i do.
Also I looked up the weight difference on Vortex Diamondbacks. That's the line I mainly use. Ironically the 4-12x40mm Diamondback weighs 14.6 oz while the 3-9x40mm weighs 14.5 oz. It sounds hard to believe but it came from Vortex's sight. It definitely makes the 12 power the much better value.
@@adamelam6385 I still like 50mm 40 seems small. So I lean towards the 44. And I hate ffp. That is all king distance shooters use. But in the woods at dusk I need something I can see better lol
As a new hunter, I haven’t taken deer with rifles, just shotguns. I’ve started rifle hunting with a scope (with a hand me down set up) and I hunt woods and firebreaks with 150-200 yards max distance. The rookie in me wants as much magnification for a clean shot, and as much light gathering because they come out 35-40 minutes before last shooting light. So I’m leaning towards a 3-9x40 and I’m def learning a lot on your channel. Thanks for sharing.
High quality glass Japanese or German Shot in a 24 will gather more light than Chinese 50. Always buy quality glass no matter what objective size. A low power 24 with quality glass will perform much better than a high power scope with the same glass.
Of course it does, as I explained at the beginning of the video at 0:30. This is a discussion of real world, practical scope selection as it relates to practical shooting, not useless, impractical advertising hype that spends your dollar, adds weight, and causes one to lift their head to look through a clumsy scope that provides no better practical view.
I could listen to you all day sir. I’m currently sat with a Cuban and a bottle of German import listening to some of your videos. A true gent.
Best regards from the UK
Thank you! Relaxing with a great cigar and beer are always good. Best from New Hampshire, US.
Sir, I have to say, your practicle & real life solutions & experience are invaluable, you have no idea how much help your knowledge base is, thanks for sharing your info with us,
Speaking from long experience with astronomical telescopes, your eye's pupil has a diameter of about 2mm (in bright light) to about 7mm (in dim light). Younger, healthier people may even go up to 8mm, but as you age your maximum pupil diameter goes down. A telescope has an "exit pupil" which is the diameter of the light exiting the scope. Exit pupil is objective size / magnification.
If you have a 3-10x42mm scope, at high power the exit pupil is 42/10 = 4.2mm. When the light is low, and your eye's pupil is 7mm, the light from the scope is still limited to 4.2mm, so it looks very dim. If you reduce magnification to 6x, the exit pupil is not 42/6 = 7mm, and the image looks as bright as the surroundings to you.
Reducing magnification further, to 3x, gives an exit pupil of 42/3 = 14mm, but since your eye's pupil is only 7mm, your eye is the limiting factor, and the image won't look any brighter.
In bright daylight your pupil may be only 2mm, so your eye is the limiting factor and the image through the scope looks bright at all magnifications.
I've found adjustable parallax is most useful in small game hunting. With how close you can be, an accurate shot is nice with clear focus. Good info gunblue.
Thank you. There are two approaches to that issue. AO is one, as with my Hawke scope. Leupold (and presumably others) non-AO rimfire scopes are parallax corrected to 60 yards, and are exceptionally accurate at all rimfire distances, combined with very fine crosshairs, are very compact and scaled to smaller rifles. Check out my CZ457 videos.
I want to thank you for the wonderful videos you have produced. I learned how to reload from your videos. Thank you so much for taking the time to make so many informative videos. God Bless You and family.
I really appriciate hearing a different perspective on rifle scopes and enoyed your whole series. Thank you .
You are an absolute blessing to this world man. Just found out your channel by seeing your video titled ‘How To Shoot a Rifle ~ Classic Military Shooting Positions’, and the quality of your teaching is unmatched on RUclips. Thank you
Another wonderful teaching video…hands down the best advice you can find on RUclips 👍 God bless.
I've done a fair amount of testing with high magnification scopes mounted on .22LR and found that power settings have virtually no effect on accuracy at 25 yards. Whether using 4x or 36x, the group size and placement does not change worth a whit. Frankly, the lower power settings are much easier to use because my image is far more stable. No doubt there is a limit to this effect, but at normal shooting distances out to 250 yards I would feel quite comfortable with a lowly fixed power 2x, 3x, or 4x scope.
Lots of helpful information to know the 'why' and make a good choice.
Another informative and interesting series of videos. Thank you.
A wealth of practical information. I enjoy watching your presentations, incredibly thorough , and interesting
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, experience and expertise. I always look forward to learning more of the finer details from you. Peace and Love. 🇦🇺
Thank you so much for answering so many questions about scopes. You are a pool of information !!!!
The "5 ratio" is standard because the maximum dilation of the human pupil is 7mm, but it drops to 5mm as we age. Dividing the diameter of the objective lens by the power gives us the diameter of the exit pupil (the circle of light emanating from the ocular lens to strike the shooter's eye). Assume a 2x-10x scope with a 50mm objective: at 2x, the exit pupil is 25mm; at 5x, it's 10mm; at 10x, it's 5mm. A larger exit pupil than the human pupil can encompass doesn't increase brightness but does give more leeway in eye placement.
Forward mounted scopes can appear dim because of the Inverse Square Law: the light reaching the shooter’s eye diminishes in proportion to the square of the distance. If the shooter’s eye is twice as far from the ocular lens of one scope than it is from another, all else being equal, the eye will receive not 1/2 the light from the more distant scope but 1/4 the light.
My favorite deer hunting or even close to mid range combat scope is my Leupold FX-II 4x33mm with a German #4 reticle and parallax set to 75 yards. Exceptionally good low light performance from the glass and the reticle, and it’s a very simple, light, compact scope that adds only minimal bulk to a rifle.
I use AO to figure the range to unknown targets. Because I never shoot very far, I doubt any holdover is required except with .22LR. With large objective bells I prefer stocks with high combs so I can maintain my cheekweld. Some of the newer bolt action rifles come with funky looking tactical stocks that do the job well.
I like to look at the objective lens as a funnel. The larger the funnel is, the more matter you can pour through it. In case it's light waves but the same scenario applies in my observation. I enjoy watching your videos tremendously! 👍
25yr LE vet here so I highly appreciate your videos. Also did the police sniper gig and competed in that venue (1994-2005 time frame). My personal experience, if this adds anything to the discussion, is:
1) Spend the money on the best glass one can afford. Commonly it’s more than the rifle. Same thing with the mounts. Schmidt & Bender PMII and a Spuhr one piece.
2) First focal plane.
3) Magnification dependent on mission first, play second. For me, greater magnification meant having an easier time for positive target ID.
4) Monster Objective. This is where buying good glass from a great manufacturer comes into play. That and 50mm (or more) of objective let’s that light come right on in-even at night.
5) Speaking of night, an illuminated reticle is nice. You may remember the days like I do where you taped up a mini calume (destroyed that spelling) stick and tried to illuminate just enough so you could see the reticles in pitch black without compromising your position.
Enough of my babbling. Enjoy your work.
Thank you for your kind comments. As a former FBI trained sniper, sniper instructor, and having worked closely with Secret Service presidential protection teams, I recognize your DNA! You spent your taxpayers dollars very well, but most don't have stocks in S&B!
While your recommendations are top notch for such competitive use atop a suitably adjustable comb rifle, such a unit has absolutely no purpose for field hunting use, nor would it be possible to attain a cheek weld on a sporter rifle comb with such height. Even department sniper rifles often get caught up in the competition role that is far beyond the actual field requirements of police sniper rifles. Even across the tarmac of a large airport, it's always possible to set up well within the inside working range of a flat shooting rifle. I digress. This series is entirely focussed on helping the uninitiated narrow the selection process for a scope that's suited to his or her needs, whether for target shooting or game hunting, but without sacrificing their childrens' food and education along with their marriage to fund their fun! 😉
It doesn’t matter how big the objective is for light, it still has to go through the 1” or 30 mm tube that’s all the light transmission you’ll get.
I use fixed 4x for my .22 squirrel rifle and fixed 4x for my .44 mag deer rifle. I use these guns at 50 yards or less. I have a 2-7x on my .22 Hornet. I set it at 2x for night time hunting and 7 for daytime varmitting. My 7mm mag Elk rifle has a 4-12x with adjustable objective. I may use this gun for varmitting in the future.
Yes a lot of confusion in optics. I built my first telescope when I was 12. Helps to be able to see through the hog wash of advertisements.😂 A pun there!🤣
My go to favorite rifle scopes is the vx 3 scopes with the 3.5x10-40 mm objective in the Leupold . You can generally get them closer to the bore and you can find target’s fairly quickly with it on low power I don’t know why that the scopes have to change your socks in the morning and make coffee
The scope you mentioned is the one I had atop my Sako .22 rimfire that you can see in my thumbnail. It was formerly on my .300 Win. Mag. elk rifle. Yes, it is a good configuration, but simply too much low end power for anything I do. Thank you.
@@GunBlue490 out here where I live it’s a good combination for hunting in the west
I would say exactly the same as the previous comment, with exception im in Europe and with a glass or cuba libre watching....
Great lessons in history, keep blessing us with experiexce and knowledge
Would you be so kind to do a video on nightvision thermal monoculars for riffles ?
Peace and health
Very clear presentation of the science & mechanics of an adjustable objective & light gathering. My purchase decision is becoming myre clear in focus 👍🏻
G-day good to to see you again it's been a while, and your still enjoying cigar good one, anyhow you take care my friend good video cheers ✌👍PS I Hope you and the family had a Merry Christmas and I wish you all a Happy New Year and turns out to a better one for us all God willing my friend take care ✌👍💚❤
As always - Appreciate you! Give Benny a hug
My vision is not the best so I need the magnification to see the target clearly. But the info is still good! Thanks
I feel that adjustable parallax is most at home for ranging distance if you haven't got a rangefinder for rimfires and such.
Also larger objectives are useful when hunting in low light that I don't believe might be the custom in the US.
I have a 1-5x24 for regular hunting, a light 4-12x50 for longer range and smaller targets as well as a 7x56 with a thick number 1 reticle for night time hunting.
None have illuminated reticles or adjustable parallax as for my use and preference that just adds dead weight.
In Australia & NZ you may shooting just after Sunrise , and just before Sunset with a dark bush background. The other issue is with the 'tactical' MOA and Mil scopes the reticle lines are so fine you cannot pick them up on this background.
@@thehopperhopes6365 Agreed, you need to buy used scopes if you want those types of reticles.
In Sweden a lot of animals are hunted to an hour after sunset. Others are hunted around the clock.
i enjoy all of your videos, loaded with good info. Thank you
another great set of class-like videos 'taught' by 'Professor' GunBlue'.
I just target shoot and I do like more magnification than most. As such I tend to go for larger objectives to give a better image at the magnifications I use. I can happily shoot very small groups offhand at 15x but I wouldn't recommend that to others. I adjust down to 20yds for parallax.
Thank you for sharing your wisdom. I purchased a used Steyr model SL in .222 Remington primarily to teach my five grandchildren as their first exposure to centerfire rifles. I've watched many of your videos and subscribed years ago, and would like to ask whether an aperture sight or a fixed power scope is a good way to start? The rifle currently has non-adjustable iron sights, with the rear sight well forward of the receiver, but it's apparent it had a scope at one time. If a scope, I will follow your suggestion for a lower objective lens so my grandkids will be able to maintain a good cheek weld. Thank you.
Sir,That is a beautiful Winchester.
Thank you.
For those who may be confused with the stay with 30,35,40 mm objectives, I say go to the range in broad daylight and shoot at 200 yards, then increase it for longer ranges in low light conditions. Then decide. I have a varmit rifle with 3-9x40 mm and longer range higher caliber rifles with larger magnifications and larger objectives. My favorite hunting scopes are 4-16x44mm (big game) and 3-12x56mm (hog/white tail). You get in very low light and want clarity on target zones and I cannot stand low magnification scopes. The x12 power with distance targets out here in the west is critical. Anyway, to each his own. There are times when a 40mm tube and 3-5 power is ok but most times for me having that large objective sitting on x12 is very important for shot placement. Heck, the dang reticle at the low power settings is bigger than the target at distance (not totally but gets the point across). And to add, every shooter has a unique set point on the stock; that is why competitive long range shooters have custom made butt stocks for them. Guaranteed my set point is different than most; been shooting and hunting for 50 years - one shot, one kill at all ranges in most conditions. One just needs to practice a lot under lots of field conditions. Standing stalk low power. Set up on the ridge with my bipod and .300 winmag on a 700+ yard shot in low light, the highest setting is coming out. I definitely do not pull my long range big magnums down hard tight in that cheek weld on camera - again, everyone is different in this regard. TOT will address any shooter's details of this.
Most often I find the ocular bell to bolt handle clearance to be the limiting factor in how low I can mount a scope.
Interesting always thought bigger the objective lens the better
If you are shooting at twilight..
The major contributor for low light clarity is lens coatings. Whether the lenses are coated on all surfaces makes a huge difference. Quality glass isn't cheap for making lenses. Lens coatings vary widely but the ones that allow maximum light to pass through the lens can be exotic and expensive. The coatings aren't just a dipping process but usually a vapor depositing process that requires expensive equipment. The best lenses in the world allow around 94-98% light transmission.
Hi , regarding the Adjustable objective advice I just tried a little experiment to see if i could get away by having a fixed parallax scope on my Air rifle . I adjusted the side focus on my Meopta scope to 100 yards and tried shooting a small dime sized circle at my normal zero range which is 30 yards at 6 x magnification.
The point of impact was high and left by about 3/4 inches . When i correctly re set the side focus to 30 yards it was back on target shooting through the same hole.
Just to clarify are your comments about not needing A/O geared towards larger game animals , centrefire rifles where a POI shift of about 3/4 inches would not matter too much .
Kind regards
Those deer know when shooting times are, like dogs know when dinner time is:)
on my 2 m-70s i have leupold fx 4 and fx 6 that fixed 6 is fantastic in the hemlocks just before shooting time ends
You can’t go wrong with Swarovski. The optical quality is phenomenal. I’ve been using Swarovski for years. Like anything in life you get what you pay for.
We had binoculars like the marine binos you showed when I was in the Navy just a few years ago when I served (2006-2012). We used them out in the ocean and the Persian Gulf. I served on an LSD and also on 34ft patrol crafts. I used those binos on both the ship and the small boats.
Thank you for your service!
Exit Pupil: In daylight the human eye pupil has a diameter of 5mm. So you want your scope to have an exit pupil of 5. (Objective lens diameter divided by scope power-ie 35/7=5.) Any more than that is wasted money.
If you have a fixed Parallax scope and you need to defeat Parallax setup the scope so that you will HAVE scope shadow. Using the scope shadow ring allows you to ensure that eye is in the center of the scope on each shot. Push the scope forward slightly to begin seeing the scope shadow. You want enough shadow that you can see it all the way about the inside of the scope.
I’m looking for a nice wood stock rifle in 270. Can you give me your opinion on the Brown xbolt medallion
The “Sage of Optics”
What is the difference between a scope designed for rimfire cartridges and one for centerfire cartridges? Is there a difference? This is something I've asked gun shops before. They don't have any idea even though some of the scopes they're selling are labeled that way.
Thanks, much appreciate your videos!
Anyone selljng scopes behind a counter should understand the important significance, but you just gave me the topic of my next video! The differences are very, very important and fundamental, and have nothing to do with cost, though they are generally less money. Let me explain first what constitutes the centerfire scope.
Fixed focus centerfire rifle scopes are parallax adjusted at the factory to 150 yards, and sometimes 100. Their crosshairs are also generally thick. Moreover, such scopes are typically large and heavy. A well designed dedicated rimfire scope is engineered from the drawing board for the rimfire cartridge and the rifles that shoot it.
A good fixed power rimfire scope, such as made by Leupold, is parallax adjusted to 60 yards, which is the more appropriate midpoint of trajectory of a typical rimfire rifle, and provides a much more precise instrument for the smaller targets of a rimfire rifle on either side of 60 yards. Being off target by an inch or so at 40 yards with a big game rifle is nothing, but it's a sure miss on a squirrel.
The crosshairs of a quality rimfire scope are also much finer, so that they don't obscure small targets and allow for more precise aiming.
Thirdly, a quality rimfire scope is scaled down in size to better match the proportions of a rimfire rifle. Even my adult sized CZ457, is far lighter and slender compared to the mass of a centerfire rifle and its components.
The things I've described apply to high quality rimfire scopes and have nothing to do with inferior, cheaply made scopes sold for rimfires, which typically feature none of the three qualities that I mentioned.
An AO centerfire scope can be satisfactory on a .22 for its parallax compensation, but most will not focus at sufficiently close ranges, and are far more bulky, costly, and usually have thicker cross hairs, unless outfitted for varmints.
I hope that answers your question! I'm appalled that a scope sales person can't articulate such incredibly important details.
Thank you for answering my question and doing it with a video as well. Your explanations made sense!
You answered what I had in mind and so much more.
I originally had bought a Leupold rim fire scope (2-7×magnification) for my marlin 39A golden mounty. After a few years I put it on a marlin 1894 in 44rem (1st gun I purchased at 18yrs!) for deer hunting without a thought as to if the extreme difference in recoil would damage the scope in any way. After a few years the thought did occur to me, but no one seemed able to really know if it would be a problem with continued use in this way. Didn't see any problems with accuracy. It was just nagging my thoughts. Something that needed to be addressed. Turns out it doesn't damage them!
Your recent scope videos jogged that question again when you mentioned rimfire scopes. Very much appreciate those videos!
I don’t mind the extra weight that an Adjustable Parallax adds to the scope weight. Having fixed power scope and fixed parallax setting is okay. However, variable power scopes and an adjustable parallax go together like peas and carrots. You certainly are correct for hunting large animals. However, they are well worth the extra weight for load accuracy testing and more precise zero range settings.
Your range settings become more defined shooting longer distances. If your zero is off an inch from center at 100-yards expect it to increase to two inches or more at 200-yards. It will worsen as the distance increase. Point Blank range setting may only be correct after testing the theory at the maximum point blank distance. The reason being is due to rifle weight, scope height and the effects of recoil. Trajectory charts are only estimated trajectories and not confirm ones. 🤔🦉✨
I'm not presenting my personal theories. I'm stating long established facts that I personally have confirmed from my own experience with many rifles, scopes, and at extended ranges. I was a rifle sniper instructor and was also sniper certified by the regional FBI SWAT instructor and have applied knowledge of scoped high power rifles and load testing since the mid 60s. AO and scopes are not peas in a pod. That's complete nonsense. You can visit my shooting capabilities with non-AO scoped rifles on this channel.
Given that Leupold has parallax set to 150 yards as you mentioned, is it beneficial in any way to sight in your rifle at 150 yards rather than 100 yards if you use a Leupold?
While they factory set parallax to an optimum 150 yards for the best average focus and focal point, that wouldn't be the best zero distance for most calibers, if any. My Leupold scopes exhibit very little parallax at the normal 100 yard line, even if my pupil is purposely off center. At distances beyond 100 yards, other factors come into play that cause greater problems. Increased wind influence, less defined target image, and the fact that sighting targets are made with MOA squares makes 100 yards the most convenient and mathematically suited for adjusting a scope. Trajectory height is easily computed at any range for whatever best suits the rifle's point blank trajectory. Non AO scopes have no parallax when the eye is centered, and less than half MOA if you purposely go off center.
@@GunBlue490 Appreciate the response and thanks for all your informative videos!
Not really, at least for big game. The 150 yard parallax setting is a compromise, most people sight in @ 100 yards for a point blank 200 yard range zero, therefore it's halfway between the 2 ranges. A 1/4" shift in POI @ 200 yards due to parallax doesn't matter much on the 8" vital area of a deers chest.
Mr Gunblue
That rifle is just so sexy.
Thanks for the lessons.
Hello I have a 22-250 I'm using it for long range shooting what is the best scope for this gun.
14 or 16 power variable with no more than a 40mm AO is ideal. Larger objective lenses cause poor cheek welds for a steady hold.
I only purchase binoculars and hunting scopes which allow a 5mm exit pupil, for the critical 1/2 hour before sunrise and after sunset
Do you shoot a scoped rifle with both eyes open ?
If so. Do you have any tips for doing it ? I see 2 sight pictures.
It's off topic for this video, but there's something I'd love to hear your opinion on.
Small game, such as squirrel, and rabbit. Birdshot, or a .22?
I've shot them with all using .22s, pellet rifles, and shotguns with great success. The larger issue is bringing them to the dinner table with the least damage. Fur follows pellets into the hole and can really make an unappetizing situation, especially if several have struck, and each pellet causes bruising. I greatly prefer to place a single shot in the head with a .22 or pellet rifle. Of course, if you're hunting rabbits with a beagle, it's a running proposition that calls for a shotgun. They take very little to put them down, so 7/8 to an ounce of #6 is plenty, and will reduce shot count.
@@GunBlue490 Got cha. Thanks for the response. I'll certainly keep it in mind.
What about tube size in relation to objective size, power etc? Good series. Thanks. JimE
Tube size was enlarged primarily to allow for more adjustment of wind age and elevation. Scopes use a tube within a tube to see through and the turret adjustments move that inner tube with the reticle so a bigger outer tube diameter means more internal clearance so more clicks for adjustment. Also the 30mm tube is stronger than 1" tube because it can have slightly thicker walls. Same thing with a 34mm over a 30mm for strength.
@@14goldmedals Thanks! 👍
Smaller objective even if sitting in dense woods if the east?
If you get the chance to compare some scopes make sure you have one in a low range like 1.5-6x24mm roughly. Europeans hunt after dark often and many of their top scopes don't have large objectives just the end of the tube diameter. And many of those cost close to $2000 US. Does a big objective let in more light? Not really but lens coatings do. Best bang for your dollar is a used Leupold 1.5-5x24mm Vari-X III. Super rugged and one of the brightest low light scopes around. Lens coatings and glass quality rule the low light world.
how do Burris Fullfield II scopes compare in quality to a $300 leupold
I have never used a Burris scope, so I cannot make any comparisons. I can only say that, having owned many Leupold scopes since my first one in 1966, they are worthy of their reputation. I have not heard of any negatives of Burris scopes, but that's all I can say.
@@GunBlue490 the burris scopes are priced about half that of leupold, but burris does not offer their scopes with a regular cross hair or duplex, so i wont be buying a burris.
What I have learned that messed me up. I could not group well at 100 yards with a 3x9. I was trying to get that sub moa group. Then got a 4.4-14 and hated it while hunting
I hunt with a 3-12x40 mostly and don't have any trouble with the weight but I don't have a big hike in. I like having a little extra power that I probably won't need but have if i do.
Also I looked up the weight difference on Vortex Diamondbacks. That's the line I mainly use. Ironically the 4-12x40mm Diamondback weighs 14.6 oz while the 3-9x40mm weighs 14.5 oz. It sounds hard to believe but it came from Vortex's sight. It definitely makes the 12 power the much better value.
@@adamelam6385 I still like 50mm 40 seems small. So I lean towards the 44. And I hate ffp. That is all king distance shooters use. But in the woods at dusk I need something I can see better lol
Mr. Mr. Ask yourself why the top snipers deployed around the world usually have 40mm-44mm objectives?
As a new hunter, I haven’t taken deer with rifles, just shotguns. I’ve started rifle hunting with a scope (with a hand me down set up) and I hunt woods and firebreaks with 150-200 yards max distance. The rookie in me wants as much magnification for a clean shot, and as much light gathering because they come out 35-40 minutes before last shooting light. So I’m leaning towards a 3-9x40 and I’m def learning a lot on your channel. Thanks for sharing.
Funny, when I still sailed 8x40 was recommended !
👍
My grandpappy always used iron instead of scopes. Old bastard could see for miles.
High quality glass Japanese or German Shot in a 24 will gather more light than Chinese 50. Always buy quality glass no matter what objective size. A low power 24 with quality glass will perform much better than a high power scope with the same glass.
If you look down a 2mm tube and a 10mm tube the image you see is bigger than the 2mm,thats nothing to do with light?
Of course it does, as I explained at the beginning of the video at 0:30. This is a discussion of real world, practical scope selection as it relates to practical shooting, not useless, impractical advertising hype that spends your dollar, adds weight, and causes one to lift their head to look through a clumsy scope that provides no better practical view.
Then i am wierd.. rifle from 1941(K98k) and scope NF 5-20x56 Best ever on any distance and light ;) hei å hå...
Wouldn’t an even larger, heavier & more cumbersome scope be even better for you? They do exist.
@@Russell-1 I am good with this monster scope!
All of your videos are too long and tiresome to complete. Painful.
Then don't watch?