This was very helpful, thank you. I have been sewing for at least 65 years, and I am chagrined to say I only just recently discovered the joy of hand sewing with silk. I use 50 weight. It threads the needle like a dream, which is vital for my older eyes. But what I love the most is how it does not twist as I am sewing, and glides so smoothly (like silk 🙂) through the fabric. It makes putting in a long hem a breeze. A side note..I have my grandmother's collection of threads. They are so old that they are not suitable for sewing any longer...they snap. But they are all on wooden spools, usually stamped with the price of 15 Cents. She made my and my mother's clothes with those threads all those decades ago...treasures!
One thing I was not aware of until recently, if your spool pin is upright, you need your thread to unwind top to bottom like standard thread spools like Coats and Clark. If your machine has horizontal spool pins, it is designed to take cross threaded spool pins like Gutermann. The way they unwind makes a difference in how the thread untwists! The same with sergers, they don’t like standard wound threads.
@@dustedpinstripes someone else posted a link to this video. This is extremely informative about different types of thread and how they are wound. ruclips.net/video/WZvwdejHjs0/видео.html
I use the standard Gutermann polyester in my machine, but recently had the opportunity to use linen thread (run through a beeswax block) to sew buttons back onto my vintage 70s wool coat (because when one falls off, you know they ALL need resewing!) and I'm very confident those buttons are staying put no matter how roughly they're used!
You’re a brave person to step into the subject of thread. There is probably no other more controversial subject in sewing. I’ve found that it not only the thread type and weight but also how it is wound on the bobbin and the heat of the iron used to set the seam. The best advice I think the best advice you gave in this video was play with it.
Hoping you will have a positive outcome with your treatments. Here’s my favorite machine tip: I keep a small size sticky note posted under my hand wheel. I slip it behind the needle to help me see the hole. Love your elegant sewing classes ❤
Because I specialise in shortening and mending garments, I have found that the secret is to exactly match the colour of the thread with the colour of the material.
I taught a class on hand sewing and covered this exact topic! For machine sewing I only use Guttermann and am moving from polyester to cotton thread to avoid adding any more micro plastic to the environment. For my hand sewing projects I use either silk or linen depending on what the fiber content and weight of the fabric is. Using silk to sew with is definitely a luxury but for fine hand sewing it can’t be beat.
Years ago, I'd bought some over-locking thread for a project only to be frustrated by it breaking constantly in the machine. Checked my machine over thoroughly and it was fine. pulled on the thread itself and it broke surprisingly easy in my arthritic hands. Took it back to place of purchase with the receipt and showed them, who then asked their manager for help. The manager explained that old stock degrades over time, so simply replaced it with new - and let me test it there and then!
Excellent video, thank you! I'm definitely one of those noobs who didn't know much regarding thread. I had no IDEA there was such a variety of threads, much less that certain situations might call for different fibers.
The tailor shop at the department store I worked at was closing and I got 2 HUGE boxes of Gutermann Mara 100 All-Purpose Tex 30 weight polyester thread in nearly EVERY color imaginable for $25 (plus a bunch of other men's tailoring buttons and other notions and do-dads). As you might be thinking, it was all of varying degrees of age (and even a little dusty), but the price was right and now I have a rainbow thread wall that makes me very happy to look at when I walk into my sewing space. :) When I've had to purchase specific colors, I usually go for Coats & Clark black and white polyester thread. But I am really interested to try the Coats and Clark Eloflex thread I bought on my next knit wear/spandex/stretch project. I don't have a serger, so using something that was specifically designed as a high stretch thread in just a long straight stitch is an experiment I'm looking forward to trying out!
Guttermans a better thread but go old polyester thread is good for swimsuit it's how you sew it . The teacher who taught me told us to use a small zig zag stitch when sewing swimwear because when you put it on it stretches right and zig zag stitch stretches with you a straight stitch doesn't so it breaks . The clear see through elastic is awful use the BEIGE stuff that they sell in package at every store because it handles bleach and chlorine better and doesn't rot like the clear elastic and it keeps its shape better. You don't need a serger to sew bathing suits it just make the seam look niceer and it will break the threads faster because of the straight stitch,plus who's looking at the inside of your bathing suit. BEIGE ELASTIC YOUR FRIEND . The teacher never uses a serger on her swim wear nor do I after she explained. I never had one seam break after I switch to zig zag stitch. Hope this helps
@@Andre-h4f8m guttermans polyester for swimsuit I think that's what your asking or that's what I use ,just be careful not all polyester thread are equal quality the cheaper it is the worst it is just unwind pull out some and pull tight if it breaks easy it cheap
@@janeveinotte9850I recently made a swimsuit for my sister, I did a lot of research first, and everything you say is spot on. She is so pleased with it, and so was I, it turned out very well 😊
I use Gutermann Sew all on my sewing machine & Coats Moon thread on my overlocker, mainly because Coats Moon is cheaper than a lot of overlocker threads & comes in a load of colours. When I'm quilting I use cotton thread, usually Aurifil.
Years ago I switched to Gutermann because I was always having trouble with the other threads. Never have trouble anymore. Now I teach sewing lessons and one of the first things I do is look through the student’s thread stash. It’s always old, random brands, such as Coats & Clark or even no name thread. We then go over threads and why it is important to use a good quality thread. I put several of their spools next to a Gutermann and a Sewology (Hobby Lobby brand) and show them how smooth the Guterman is compared to the others. Then I give them 2 spools of a Sewology thread, a black & a white, and that is what we use for their lessons. Sewology thread is from Hobby Lobby, not expensive, (99¢ on sale), not quite as good as Guterman, but so far better than the other stuff. The reason I give them the Sewology thread is because it is affordable for me to stock up during a sale and give away. If I could get Gutermann for 99¢, I would prefer to use that, but, cost is a factor, since I only am charging $15 an hour long lesson, and that includes me driving to their house and supplies. (I don’t really make any money with these lessons, it is more an act of service & charity to the homeschooling community.)
Great video. I enjoy these videos so much. For machine work, I generally rely on the standard, consistency of polyester. For hand sewing and mending, I enjoy the experience of cotton. Again, along with the sewing community, I thoroughly enjoy Evelyn's pragmatic and aspirational videos. She transports us to another world of yesteryear.
When I learned to sew in the late 60s, all we could buy was cotton-wrapped poly. When I began quilting in the 90s, everyone said to use cotton, so that’s what I began to buy. I’ve recently begun to do more bag making, and found polyester to be stronger, so have been buying that. Thread is one of those costs of sewing that I used to not think much about, but it can really get quite pricey! I recently ordered some Gutermann thread online because it was half price….and spent almost $100. Good thing it wasn’t FULL price!
I use DMC polyester thread as that's what's widely available in my area. One disadvantage of using polyester thread is that if you use it on cotton fabric, and later wish to dye your garment, you may have issues with the fabric and thread not picking up the dye to the same degree. I've run into this recently - a toile that I made up in cotton muslin came out surprisingly well, and I'd love to dye it to make it more wearable. I used polyester thread, though, so I may need to unpick and resew the seams with a different color of thread if I do decide to dye it.
I know I'm super duper late but I'd recommend using a synthetic dye! I know it seems silly for a primarily cotton creation but I dyed something that had a decently high cotton % and polyester threads and it all came out perfectly!
Recently I tried a new cotton thread, Mettler silk-finish cotton. I love it! I agree that cotton is nicer to work with in general than polyester, and since I work with a lot of cotton handwoven fabrics, it makes good sense :)
I have a Juki’s and polyester works so much better than cotton. I get much better stitches with polyester, but then I did switch to a higher quality cotton thread from superior threads.
I like to experiment, so I’ll test threads and stitches on scraps of what I’m using. Sometimes you get unexpected results that you’ll love! I recently tried a 60wt polyester thread that was meant for delicate overlocking to instead use on a quilting project. I got lots of texture and the thread looked invisible. Always save some scraps for play!
I love Aurifil cotton thread. It is a bit more expensive but my machine loves it, and it works so well. I sewed garments many, many years ago, stopped for the longest time, took up quilting (where absolutely every part was 100%cotton, which introduced me to Aurifil) and used it since I've just started garment sewing again.
That thread is very very Linty I’m starting to use a better quality thread from superior threads, the masterpiece cotton, the quality of Aurifil has gone downhill
A online store call connecting threads has the 50 weight cotton spools for like 5 bucks it even sew well in my industrial juki machine that's better than 20 for aurifil
My criteria for buying thread is color and weight. When I have a project, I take my fabric to JoAnn and get the best color match in the appropriate thickness. I thought that is what you were “supposed to do”. My sweet, sweet Momma was a stickler for color matching and so am I! I don’t think that my 1990s Sears Kenmore machine has ever noticed a difference in all the types/brands that I have, but I will be more attentive to this going forward. Due to JoAnn’s bad financial situation (bankruptcy?), their inventory is extremely low right now so sometimes it’s been impossible to find a good color match.
Thank you for the tips Evelyn. I bought a polyester thread on sale but as soon as I started using it it was bunching and skipping on my machine when I sewed. Now I got a cotton thread and no issues here!
Hi there Evelyn. Always so great to see you and I love this video. I do feel thread can make a good garment great especially for basting, seams, and finishing. I recall asking you this when I was looking to hand sew buttons and your guidance was spot on and you touched on this today when you spoke about the thickness of the thread. Thank you for sharing the thread topic on this channel! See you in Vintage Sewing School :)
I am a sewing teacher with a sewing studio that has quite a few sewing machines. My Bernina 790+ sewing machine loves the cotton Aurifil thread. Aurifil is silky and fine and it sews and presses beautifully. My industrial Juki DDL9000 FMS sewing machine doesn’t like the Aurifil thread at all! I find that my industrial machine likes the polyester threads better, so I only use polyester on that machine. My less fancy computer machines and my older mechanical machines don’t seem to care what thread I use. For the most part, I use Gutermann or Metrosene polyester thread for synthetic fabrics and cotton for natural fabrics.
This is good to know, as I got a very large thread stash from my mom when I started sewing! I've been adding newer threads as I go and using the older ones for hand basting, but it's nice when I already have the right color and thickness of thread in my stash, even if it's not the right fiber. When I do buy thread, I try to stick with natural fibers, though, since that's mostly the fabric I sew with.
I used to use Guttermann but I am switching to Venne-Colcotton. They make and sell biological threads, yarns for sewing, knitting, weaving in all kinds of fibres and weights. They are Dutch but sell also in Australia. The best thing I like is their customer service. If I do not know if a thread is suitable, they will always help.
The 'break test' is useful for assessing thread when you don't know its origin or age. Just unwind some from the spool, and pull on it until it breaks. Do this to several different threads, and you get a sense of their comparative strength. Sewing machines treat thread more roughly, and overlockers treat it more gently. Think of how far a sewing machine's take-up lever moves, and how much thread it drags back through the eye of the needle. Overlocker loopers can take some threads that are too fluffy or too delicate for a sewing machine. I'm not convinced about the need to settle on one thread brand for one sewing machine. I mainly use Coats Epic 120 off 5000m cones, because it's the best value for money I've found for top-tier thread quality. But, for colours I use less often, I cheerfully switch to Gutermann or Amann.
There are better quality threads out there. Superior threads makes masterpiece cotton which is a much better cotton than what you would get at your typical fabric store and then there’s that king tut. Wonderfil I think that’s what it’s called. Vanessa who has a channel called The Crafty Gemini uses that, but when you start watching RUclips channels of people who have been extremely successful over the years they never mention the thread that you’re talking about Isacord is another high-quality thread but it is polyester. Definitely is a plethora of thread nowadays
@@dcwatashi Thanks for clarifying. I sew on quite a thrifty budget, so I won't be switching from my favourite reliable core-spun polyester thread to a prestigious cotton at 10 times the price! (Yes, Masterpiece and Wonderfil really are that much more expensive where I live.) But maybe other readers will try your suggestions.
@@tomscrafts I got lucky and met a lady who has a side embroidery business. She buys from a wholesale supplier I couldn’t believe the price I was able to pay for that Masterpiece cotton. Basically 50% less. That just proves what a ridiculous mark up there is on thread.
I think my thoughts on thread change when I hear different technologies, and what can be made these days. The right thread for the right job really does make a difference. I have purchased more cotton threads of late too, but I gotta admit that good old Guitterman is my tried and true go to....and Coats is an almost equal second.
Hello Evelyn, I just started watching your channel, as I am a beginner sewist, and want to know and learn everything I need to become a great sewest someday. I am in the process of now learning what different types of threads there are, and let me tell you, I was shocked to see what there are for threads. I am going thread crazy now, I had no idea as to what thread was for what and when to use it and how to use it on the proper garments, my goodness!!! There is so much to learn about all this sewing stuff, but I am so intrigued by it all too. I just came to notice all the different threads that are out there as of today, after my hubby came home with 2 different kinds of threads, I had no idea what the one thread is, as I had never heard of it, so I went to look it up on RUclips, but that really did not help as there was nothing that I could even find on this Mercerized Cotton Thread, it's almost an Alien species to the thread world as I can't seem to find what it is used for. PLEASE HELP!!! I Love your Style and your Fabulous new Hair Cut looks AMAZING on you. You are my newest inspiration. Thank you for being the New Sunshine in my Life.
I believe that type of thread is used for hand embroidery. Do a Google search for DMC floss and see what type of thread that it is. Maybe that will help your search.
I learned to sew in the 50s and used Coat's and Clark thread because that was what was available to us. In the 90s I took up hand quilting and gravitated toward 100% cotton fabric and thread. I have started teaching my great-granddaughter to sew and was appalled with the quality of the thread bought at the only fabric store for miles. I did wonder though, if the needle that came with the machine may play a part in the fraying of the thread. I am going to put her to work at the machine testing threads and needles for me. A learning experience for both of us.
You are always sooo helpful! I so appreciate this really good info about thread and it makes sense. I’m gonna look at my thread stash and see which threads I want to continue sewing with. Thank you! 🪡🧵
I think it all depends on what you are sewing. For bags and home dec, I always use polyester thread no matter what the fabric content is. For fabrics that are mixed content, I will use either cotton or polyester, for topstitching, always cotton. For tailored shirts, I use Aurifil cotton. Shirts are generally topstitched quite extensively, so Aurifil, which is only 2 ply cotton, works quite well and will disappear into the seams. For quilting, I always use Aurifil or size 50 or 60 DMC for both piecing and actual quilting. For a Chanel style jacket, I use polyester for the seams and often will use silk or rayon embroidery thread for the quilting and hand sewing. I could go on and on, but as I said, it all depends.
I have thoroughly enjoyed this video!.. Although I knew most of it, there is always something that you say to help us out..thank you so much! Cheers from Brisbane!
I was interested to hear that there was only polyester thread when you started sewing. I inherited my mothers box of threads when she died 13 years ago. Amongst it were many cotton threads, silk threads and machine embroidery threads (she used to do a lot embroidery especially when we were children). The embroidery threads are very much thinner than normal sewing threads. With the cotton threads some of them are on the old wooden cotton reels. It may well be that only polyester was available in Australia but cotton thread was around long before polyester and were certainly available in the UK and USA.
Very helpful vid, thanks. Are you willing to take on explaining thread numbering systems? I understand tex; too bad not all thread types use it. Denier makes sense for filament threads. Thread weight (wt) and thread size should be outlawed!. I have some old thread spools I inherited from my Mom and MIL. Some say size 40, some say 40 wt and some just have the number 40 on the spool. Some quick research left me to conclude that these are not necessarily the same size threads. Can you shed any light on this?
I love Gutermann and Metler(mercerized cotton). I try not to buy much but I think I need thread in every color imaginable. WAWAK has been my supplier, since Guterman cost so much in retail stores and I get a lot less thread in retail stores.
Resant is my thread of choice. My machine seems to hum along with it, lovely colours and very little fluff so it easier to thread and works through the machine easier.
Wonderfil !!!! Hands down ❤ they have so many options. I sew on a Juki and it loves decoBob. I have also used 100% cotton line. Depending on the project. I am a sewist, quilter, EPP, FPP, FMQ, bag maker and maker of all the things in my imagination. By hand or machine Wonderfil has my heart😊
i think I'm gonna start doing the same, especially for linen garments that are hard to get ironed flat on lower settings. I found this video bc I accidentally melted my thread as I was sewing some linen pants, lucky it was only the pocket and at the beginning of the project but still, it'll be cotton thread for me from now on
A number of years ago, the owner of a fine fabric shop in out town passed away, and her daughter offered the sewing guild first dibs on her inventory. I bought some silk thread at a great price. My husband had a cotton/wool sweater which got a hole T the shoulder seam. I used the silk to mend it, and you would never know hole had existed. This would never have happened with a polyester.
Hi! I live in Portugal and always used cotton thread. But then I sewed some curtains, some of which with a simple drawn thread work. After 20 years of full sun exposure, the thread started to disappear!!! So now I use polyester thread for curtains and cotton thread for other purposes. 😊
Thanks you for your help Evelyn!Now I know why the thread I inherited from my grandmother doesn't work in the sewing machine. Perhaps it reached its shelf life? Always keeps on breaking when threaded. One question. How to use embroidery thread in the sewing machine if it doesn't come in a spool? Lote of hugs from Portugal 🇵🇹 and keep inspiring (sorry for the English 🥴)
Yay thread! 🧵 Two questions: 1) Serger/overlocker thread is lower cost for some reason - is it ever appropriate to use serger thread cones in a regular domestic sewing machine? 2) Bobbins - Do you always use the exact same thread in the top and bobbin? I've seen pre-wound bobbins and also spools specifically marketed as bobbin thread and find that confusing My go-to brand for cotton thread is Aurafil 50 weight, that's what I use for quilting and so far it's worked lovely for garments as well. Never had issues with thread breakage, but I have also yet to sew a more form-fitting garment with any cotton thread so I can't speak specifically to wear and tear in high-stress areas with Aurafil. It's a cult favorite for quilters for sure! My go-to brand for polyester thread is Gutermann because they have a recycled polyester thread line, and it's widely available with coupons near me. I wish they had a wider variety of colors in the recycled line as in the regular lineup, but I'll take mainstream business progress where I can!
A few thoughts for you. What happened to mercerized cotton? I grew up with it in the 70s. Have you had trouble with polyester thread melting when ironed? I have read about different ways to tell thread weight, but most of the thread I come across in the store doesn't tell you. Coats and Clark talks about All Purpose, XP, and Heavy. (???) I like Coats and Clark because I grew up with it, even though a lot of people don't like it. I can use it on both my Singer 403 (upright spool pin) and my Singer 600e (horizontal spool pin). Parallel wound thread works on both machines. I think the secret is that the horizontal one has a cap that keeps it from flying off the pin. My older machines don't like the height of the new spools. I haven't had the courage to try cross wound thread yet.
Have you had a problem with Coats and Clarks plastic thread spools lately? I have had problems with the spool itself not being smooth. The thread gets caught up on the rough edges of the spool. It's like the manufacturer forgot to sand the rough edges off.
I know what you are talking about, but I haven't. it is extremely important to get the thread slot to the bottom of the spool holder. I mark that spot with a dot of fingernail polish. The upright spool holder doesn't go across the edges of the spool. The horizontal spool holder sits on top of the machine; it does not sit in a hole like new machines. It just feeds across the smooth top of the cap. The price of Guterman and other threads scare me off. Cross wound thread spools are so tall, I will have to buy a spool stand for them, two, one for each machine.
I've gotten several thrift store grab bags of cone threads and it's been amazing! Some say poly or cotton or rayon or the weights, but most of them are pretty unknown. Mostly, I am able to see which work best for my machine by testing them on my bobbin winder for breakage first. There were two invisible thread cones that I've been using for top stitching, and a giant black cone that actually breaks a lot so I use that doubled up for hand stitching. Each bag was under $10, so for that price, I don't care what they are AND I may never have to buy thread in my lifetime again! 🤣🧵
I have made horizontal spool pin by taping a bendable straw to upper back of machine and then using a cut piece of bigger straw over the horizontal bent portion of the bendable straw so it is stronger and can hold a spool of cross wound thread. It works on my vintage Kenmore machine. Also a stand alone spool stand is made for cross wound thread, they have thread feed up and off the end.
I mostly sew utility things like tool pouches, sacks for camping gear, and the like. I tried for seam strength by using T70, V69 thread. and a #100 / 16 needle or larger. My newer machines don't do well with the larger thread, so now I use thinner thread, but I lower the stitch length for more stitches. Some materials don't do as well with more stitches, (like maybe leather and vinyl)..I go back to my vintage machines. What confuses me the most about thread is why there are so many standards. #69, T70, 210/3 are all the same as an example. There is serger, quilting, topstitching, outdoor One almost needs a thread standard conversion chart to see what is similar, (how does WT30 compare to T70 as an example). Can WT40 thread be used as an all purpose thread, (I like to buy in bulk rolls when I can and use a thread stand next to the sewing machine).
Still new to sewing and this was so helpful. I live in a rural area but even my local craft/fabric store had all purpose, heavy duty, embroidery, quilting thread, specialty thread (what!?), etc. I looked through my stash and it seems I havesome Gütermann all purpose polyester and some Coats & Clark heavy duty (which I think is also polyester?). I saw some SUPER cool muticolored cotton thread that's a 'regular' 30 weight. It looks amazing but it's expensive and I have no idea what kind of project I'd use it for. Maybe top stitching or a simple decorative stitch around some shirt cuffs or a collar maybe?
Another user of mainly Gutermann Sew-All. I saw the comment about cross-threaded being better for horizontal pins, plain for vertical pins (tbh I just thought that vertical pins were the older style, horizontal the newer). I like Gutermann silk thread for hand-sewing and for buttonholes; however it's a 40 weight (I think), so about the same as sew-all thread, rather than thicker. Something you didn't mention is that a lot of the thicker threads (like top-stitching thread, anything 30 weight or thicker) won't work in standard machine needles, as the eyes are too small (yes I found this out the hard way). There's an excellent wee video by Liz Grylls on top-stitching, one thing she suggests is to use upholstery/extra strong thread, not topstitching thread, as it's fine enough to use with regular needles, and saves so much switching around (for example if making jeans... I had two machines threaded up the first time I tried, one for the regular seams, and the other for the topstitching!!).
I recently purchased some Gutermann Maraflex elastic thread, to try when sewing knit fabrics. Generally I use Gutermann polyester thread, but occasionally cotton
I have some lovely silk chiffon prints and also some very fine cotton/silk mixture prints. I have made 6 lovely short sleeved faced-neck pull-on blouses. They didn't last very long, which would have broken my heart if I didn't have a 50 litre plastic box stuffed full of similar fabrics. I have decided not to use polyester thread on fragile fabrics any more, even though it is easy to get a colour match, and poly thread is fine. But if there is any strain on the garment seams, the fabric tears, while the sewing thread remains undamaged. This is irreparable. A weaker sewing thread will break, allowing the fabric to survive. The split seam is easily sewn up again.
I just bought a vintage Singer sewing box full of goodies for $25 here in Queensland. Has heaps of different thread in many colours 😊 I will test each before sewing but am hopefully on a winner 🧵🪡🧵
I love getting vintage notions, I use vintage thread for basting stitches. It might be to old to hold a garment together but it’s great for basting stitches. 👍🏽
I buy bags of notions at thrift stores. Sometimes there is thread. I just try it out. If it snaps in the machine, it gets tossed into a box for hand sewing (unless it is just rotting away completely). At some point I might commit to one brand, but right now I'm saving money and doing good for the earth.
I use Coats & Clark. Was wondering what thread is best for knit fabrics? I have heard some thread has more "stretch" than others but don't know much about the topic. Would love to hear your thoughts. I'm new to your channel and love these videos you are creating about "what to use when". Just watched the one about when to change your sewing machine needle, it was fabulous.
Fellow newbie here, what I have heard is it matters more what stitch you select on your machine for knit fabrics. For instance a zig-zag stitch is considered a "stretch stitch" because there is flexibility in the actual stitch line. Unlike a straight stitch which just pops if you stretch it too much. I always test the exact thread and exact stitch settings on a scrap of the knit fabric I am about to work with to try a few settings before sewing any actual seams
I might have missed this, but did you happen to mention if shrinkage can be a factor with cotton threads? Thats something I've been wondering about. If it is, how can we plan for it? Thanks!
I too prefer using natural fibers but it seems the only choice for an overlock machine is polyester. It’s also been difficult to find cotton thread for my industrial sewing machine. Any suggestions for these machines in the natural fiber threads?
Interesting topic Evelyn! I’ve found my machine likes some thread better than others. I really like Glide brand but it is a bit difficult to find. I mostly use Guttermann. Can you go more in depth regarding thread weights. (Mara 220, 150, 100 etc. and Tex 13, 20, 25 etc. Also what do you think of stretch or wooly nylon in sergers?
I had heard that it is helpful to be selective, mindful of buying and using older threads. It is *possible* that some of these threads weaken over time. But, I like the spirit and authenticity of your vibe. 🙂
I came to sewing through quilting (though I did my stint in the middle school home economics course sewing stuffed animals like everyone else in the early '80s). As a quilter, I was taught "only cotton" and I have never turned back. I know polyester is more forgiving, but I just love cotton. And my brand is Gutermann. Honestly, I picked up one of the newly marketed Chinese lines (brothread) simply for economic reasons but I have yet to test it against Gutermann. I would be interested to know if anyone has tested their stock as well.
I have used the Brothread machine embroidery thread on many occasions when I’ve run out of my regular Gutermann all purpose sewing thread and it worked like a dream. Evelyn’s video has certainly given me something to think about in switching to cotton but will do it gradually as my current stash begins to go down.
My Aunt (who was a school teacher) made herself a new dress. However, the first time she wore the dress it started falling apart. She had sewn her cotton dress together with rayon thread. The heat of her iron damaged the thread. This was back in the late 1950's; and, I always remember what happened to my Aunt, when I was picking out my thread. Will it take the heat of a hot iron? Will it be too strong and cut the fabric? Will it be strong enough to hold the garment together in the high strain areas?
I found out the hard way that I needed to use cotton thread in linen garments that needed to be ironed on high heat. The polyester threads just fell apart after several launderings and ironings
When I go thrifting, I always look at the threads in the craft corner. I tend to look for classic quality brands, and I look at the thread itself; Is the color still even? Is the thread smooth (fluffy thread is really bad for your machine)? If I'm not sure I do a pull test (to see how easily it snaps), but usually it's fine! I have all the colors of the rainbow now!
I have some metallic thread - gutermann - and I use with a needle for metallic thread. However, it still seems to strip the thread after a few stitches. Have you any experience or tips and if so can you please do a video on this.
I use Coats & Clark dual duty XP tex 30 poly thread for cotton and poly garment fabric, as well as quilts, It’s so durable and long lasting. I only use long staple cotton thread for bowl cozies and hot pads.
I grew up in South Georgia USA next to cotton patches and near two Coats and Clark's plants, one 45 miles in one direction and 35 miles in the other. We thought it was the only thread brand. It was affordable, available, and as strong as we needed it to be. We never thought about whether our machines "liked" it. I'm 74 now and confess I've gone through some thread snobbery stages buying expensive brands etc. But the Coats and Clark's thread has never failed me and I am happy to say I that I buy it more than any other brand. Sadly the plants closed in Georgia and moved mostly to Mexico but I do think the thread is still good and affordable. Actually I've recently heard rumors of them reopening some Georgia plants and we still have cotton growing in our area.
@@paulasalter1041 Nice to know, thanks for the info. I’ve used 4 different sewing machines, different brands also, and have never had an issue with C&C dual duty thread. It’s the only thread brand I use. I know other sewers, quilters and seamstresses that always use C&C. I hope they reopen in Georgia!
I use Coats & Clark as well. I live in Tennessee and am surrounded by cotton fields as well. Not in my thread though. Will stick with what works for me IE... polyester.
@@tinamccartney3778the Dual Duty is poly-cotton blend and that's what I use except when I hand quilt and then I generally use the Coats and Clark's cotton hand quilting thread.
I will get random second hand thread when thrifting, but my go-to is gutermann polyester thread. My machine likes it, it won't snap when I stretch in a tight garment, and it's available basically everywhere. My only problem with it is that it gets static when I'm handsewing.
I'm mending a wool blanket that my mother made and many sources online suggested silk thread for wool. Since the cotton thread is what's failing on my mother's blanket I'm hoping that silk will last longer.
I like my thread to be no stronger than my fabric - if something is going to get stressed to the point of failure I'd rather it was the seam, which is easy to repair, than the fabric which is nowhere near as easy to repair. And I also don't want a thread that will, over time, "cut", weaken or abrade the fabric it is stitched into.
As an aside, I have only one thread rule based on my personal experience. I always use cotton rather than silk thread sewing woven fabric. Since silk is much stronger than cotton, the stitches were pulled right of the hem. I always make the expensive mistakes. 😆
Please keep the receipt & test the thread soon after buying (unwind some and pull tight) I bought "new" thread during last year's Joann's doorbuster (not Gutermann polyester) cheaper poly in big bins B2G1free. It's all breaking even in hand-sewing. and jammed my machine.
Hi Evelyn- I did have a question- is there a particular way to store thread? I had a bunch of thread (name brand- but a few years old) that seemed to break easily when I pulled on it- I was wondering if it was due to the way I stored it- I had the spools on one of those wooden racks you put on the wall.
Preshrinking question: I also am transitioning to all natural materials. When using all natural thread with natural material, do I need to somehow pre-shrink the thread, as well as the material? I know that I’m supposed to preshrink material, but if I’m using cotton thread, will it shrink after the garment has been sewed and create puckering? I might be over thinking this. Also, when I hand sew I coat the thread in beeswax to help prevent fraying. When I machine see I obviously do not. Just not sure how natural thread will work with the preshrinking process.
I have been near tears and almost given up sewing because I can not manage to get the thread tension correct. No matter how much I adjust the bobbin or the top thread tension, the bottom loops always show on top and I can’t get a nice clean stitch. However, I’m thinking it could be because I’m using 30+ year old thread that belonged to my grandmother. Could new thread be the simple solution?
I’m with Terri!! With sewing always try the easy things first so quality of your thread then your needle. Those two can do some very weird things to sewing and are the easiest to fix!
Definitely change the thread and try again. And fiddle with the top tension a lot before even trying to touch the bobbin tension (that's usually not the problem). It sounds like your top tension might be too tight? Sewing machine maintenance can also help a lot if you're still struggling, it might just be that the timing is slightly off or that your tension discs are grimey and giving you uneven tension.
Switched the thread and it didn’t solve the problem. I’ve turned the tension all the way down to 1 and it’s still not quite right. Going that low just seems crazy but 🤷♀️. This is the second machine that this has happened to due to my touching it. I’ve rethreaded and wound the bobbins multiple times following the instructions. Could I be missing something?
I live in a very humid environment and have noticed my threads seem to snap easily. I keep my threads out, uncovered and also have been using threads from Aldi and Lidl. What are your thoughts?
what is the largest spool size/brand i can fit in a regular sowing machine? I cant seem to find any information on this. I don't want to use a seperate cone holder, just to fit it on my vertical or horizontal pin. Most i've heard is that the 500m Gutterman sew all fits.
Another comment: I heard an interview with Kenneth King, and he said that a lot of times his couture garments will be donated to a museum after the initial customer is finished with it. So he always uses polyester for his garments as it will last for a very long time.
What top are you wearing? Is this a knit or woven? Lovely top. Question. Do you have a video on how to make facing? So many patterns just fold under. Not a professional look and it never looks good. I would much rather put a facing in or a binding of some sort.
Back in my historical re-enacting days, a friend made a facing pattern for me and I still use it to this day. However I think that you would need an hour to two-hour class on this. It IS a bit complicated and best done with a friend to fit it on you, but once you have done it, you can use the same facing pattern again and again.
I know I HAVE to be a good bit older than you, so I do remember having no real choice of thread types. I also remember the discount stores that would have huge bins of thread for like 3 or 4 for a dollar. Those were really garbage! I did purchase a very few of them, but soon realized they were no good. I have a lot of thread, such as embroidery thread for my embroidery machine, then mostly, I think, general purpose thread in the sewing machine threads. For the sewing machine part of my embroidery/sewing machine, I have been using the embroidery thread for both sewing and embroidery. I have a ton of colors to choose from, and it is just easier to use than having to get up and go through my sewing threads. Also, the cotton thread -- not sure about sewing machines, but on embroidery machines (at least the folks in my circle) cotton thread leaves tons of fuzz. I believe you did mention that.
Dear Evelyn, I have indeed two more questions. I've heard that we shouldn't use old thread because it might age and break. Is that the same with polyester thread or only with cotton and natural fiber? And my second question. Is thread for serger and the household sewing machine interchangeable?
Polyester thread still degrades over time. Especially when they've been sat in moist or sunny environments. That doesn't mean they're all unusable, but you need to look carefully. Is the thread still smooth? Is the color even? Does it take effort to break the thread with your hands? And no serger thread is generally lesser quality since you need more of it, and it needs to handle less stress than normal machine sewing thread. At the very least I'd never use serger thread on my normal sewing machine, and using machine sewing thread on the serger is kind of wasteful (though possible).
This was very helpful, thank you. I have been sewing for at least 65 years, and I am chagrined to say I only just recently discovered the joy of hand sewing with silk. I use 50 weight. It threads the needle like a dream, which is vital for my older eyes. But what I love the most is how it does not twist as I am sewing, and glides so smoothly (like silk 🙂) through the fabric. It makes putting in a long hem a breeze. A side note..I have my grandmother's collection of threads. They are so old that they are not suitable for sewing any longer...they snap. But they are all on wooden spools, usually stamped with the price of 15 Cents. She made my and my mother's clothes with those threads all those decades ago...treasures!
I have some of the wooden spools. Do you ever re-thread them?
One thing I was not aware of until recently, if your spool pin is upright, you need your thread to unwind top to bottom like standard thread spools like Coats and Clark. If your machine has horizontal spool pins, it is designed to take cross threaded spool pins like Gutermann. The way they unwind makes a difference in how the thread untwists! The same with sergers, they don’t like standard wound threads.
That's really good information! Thanks!
Wow this is super useful!! I was wondering if I should move my thread to the backup vertical spool pin after having some issues, this makes sense lol
I have used Bobbins on my serger when I did not have enough cones of the same color and it worked just fine
@@dustedpinstripes someone else posted a link to this video. This is extremely informative about different types of thread and how they are wound.
ruclips.net/video/WZvwdejHjs0/видео.html
I didn’t know that!?
I use the standard Gutermann polyester in my machine, but recently had the opportunity to use linen thread (run through a beeswax block) to sew buttons back onto my vintage 70s wool coat (because when one falls off, you know they ALL need resewing!) and I'm very confident those buttons are staying put no matter how roughly they're used!
Love this kind of vintage sewing. So smart and practical.
Love that waxed linen, especially when working with/sewing leather. Trying to find an equivalent for the machine, or just as tough at least.
You’re a brave person to step into the subject of thread. There is probably no other more controversial subject in sewing. I’ve found that it not only the thread type and weight but also how it is wound on the bobbin and the heat of the iron used to set the seam. The best advice I think the best advice you gave in this video was play with it.
Hoping you will have a positive outcome with your treatments. Here’s my favorite machine tip: I keep a small size sticky note posted under my hand wheel. I slip it behind the needle to help me see the hole. Love your elegant sewing classes ❤
Brilliant! I always do this
Because I specialise in shortening and mending garments, I have found that the secret is to exactly match the colour of the thread with the colour of the material.
I taught a class on hand sewing and covered this exact topic! For machine sewing I only use Guttermann and am moving from polyester to cotton thread to avoid adding any more micro plastic to the environment. For my hand sewing projects I use either silk or linen depending on what the fiber content and weight of the fabric is. Using silk to sew with is definitely a luxury but for fine hand sewing it can’t be beat.
That is a concern I have, too.
Years ago, I'd bought some over-locking thread for a project only to be frustrated by it breaking constantly in the machine. Checked my machine over thoroughly and it was fine. pulled on the thread itself and it broke surprisingly easy in my arthritic hands. Took it back to place of purchase with the receipt and showed them, who then asked their manager for help. The manager explained that old stock degrades over time, so simply replaced it with new - and let me test it there and then!
Excellent video, thank you! I'm definitely one of those noobs who didn't know much regarding thread. I had no IDEA there was such a variety of threads, much less that certain situations might call for different fibers.
The tailor shop at the department store I worked at was closing and I got 2 HUGE boxes of Gutermann Mara 100 All-Purpose Tex 30 weight polyester thread in nearly EVERY color imaginable for $25 (plus a bunch of other men's tailoring buttons and other notions and do-dads). As you might be thinking, it was all of varying degrees of age (and even a little dusty), but the price was right and now I have a rainbow thread wall that makes me very happy to look at when I walk into my sewing space. :) When I've had to purchase specific colors, I usually go for Coats & Clark black and white polyester thread. But I am really interested to try the Coats and Clark Eloflex thread I bought on my next knit wear/spandex/stretch project. I don't have a serger, so using something that was specifically designed as a high stretch thread in just a long straight stitch is an experiment I'm looking forward to trying out!
Oh God stay away from coats and Clark
Guttermans a better thread but go old polyester thread is good for swimsuit it's how you sew it . The teacher who taught me told us to use a small zig zag stitch when sewing swimwear because when you put it on it stretches right and zig zag stitch stretches with you a straight stitch doesn't so it breaks . The clear see through elastic is awful use the BEIGE stuff that they sell in package at every store because it handles bleach and chlorine better and doesn't rot like the clear elastic and it keeps its shape better. You don't need a serger to sew bathing suits it just make the seam look niceer and it will break the threads faster because of the straight stitch,plus who's looking at the inside of your bathing suit. BEIGE ELASTIC YOUR FRIEND . The teacher never uses a serger on her swim wear nor do I after she explained. I never had one seam break after I switch to zig zag stitch. Hope this helps
nice score!
@@Andre-h4f8m guttermans polyester for swimsuit I think that's what your asking or that's what I use ,just be careful not all polyester thread are equal quality the cheaper it is the worst it is just unwind pull out some and pull tight if it breaks easy it cheap
@@janeveinotte9850I recently made a swimsuit for my sister, I did a lot of research first, and everything you say is spot on. She is so pleased with it, and so was I, it turned out very well 😊
Gutterman Sew All is my go to. Easily accessible in a lot of colours.
Thank you. I'll have to try it.
I use Gutermann Sew all on my sewing machine & Coats Moon thread on my overlocker, mainly because Coats Moon is cheaper than a lot of overlocker threads & comes in a load of colours. When I'm quilting I use cotton thread, usually Aurifil.
Great video on all the different threads. I love your way of teaching.
Years ago I switched to Gutermann because I was always having trouble with the other threads. Never have trouble anymore. Now I teach sewing lessons and one of the first things I do is look through the student’s thread stash. It’s always old, random brands, such as Coats & Clark or even no name thread. We then go over threads and why it is important to use a good quality thread. I put several of their spools next to a Gutermann and a Sewology (Hobby Lobby brand) and show them how smooth the Guterman is compared to the others. Then I give them 2 spools of a Sewology thread, a black & a white, and that is what we use for their lessons. Sewology thread is from Hobby Lobby, not expensive, (99¢ on sale), not quite as good as Guterman, but so far better than the other stuff. The reason I give them the Sewology thread is because it is affordable for me to stock up during a sale and give away. If I could get Gutermann for 99¢, I would prefer to use that, but, cost is a factor, since I only am charging $15 an hour long lesson, and that includes me driving to their house and supplies. (I don’t really make any money with these lessons, it is more an act of service & charity to the homeschooling community.)
As a former elementary teacher I approve this comment🙂
That's amazing. You are doing a wonderful service
Thinking of you on your Health Journey, sending healing hugs ❤
Great video. I enjoy these videos so much. For machine work, I generally rely on the standard, consistency of polyester. For hand sewing and mending, I enjoy the experience of cotton. Again, along with the sewing community, I thoroughly enjoy Evelyn's pragmatic and aspirational videos. She transports us to another world of yesteryear.
When I learned to sew in the late 60s, all we could buy was cotton-wrapped poly. When I began quilting in the 90s, everyone said to use cotton, so that’s what I began to buy. I’ve recently begun to do more bag making, and found polyester to be stronger, so have been buying that. Thread is one of those costs of sewing that I used to not think much about, but it can really get quite pricey! I recently ordered some Gutermann thread online because it was half price….and spent almost $100. Good thing it wasn’t FULL price!
I use DMC polyester thread as that's what's widely available in my area. One disadvantage of using polyester thread is that if you use it on cotton fabric, and later wish to dye your garment, you may have issues with the fabric and thread not picking up the dye to the same degree. I've run into this recently - a toile that I made up in cotton muslin came out surprisingly well, and I'd love to dye it to make it more wearable. I used polyester thread, though, so I may need to unpick and resew the seams with a different color of thread if I do decide to dye it.
I know I'm super duper late but I'd recommend using a synthetic dye! I know it seems silly for a primarily cotton creation but I dyed something that had a decently high cotton % and polyester threads and it all came out perfectly!
Recently I tried a new cotton thread, Mettler silk-finish cotton. I love it! I agree that cotton is nicer to work with in general than polyester, and since I work with a lot of cotton handwoven fabrics, it makes good sense :)
I would love to learn more about handwoven, do you have a certain shop you purchase these or do you create them yourself?
That is my all time favourite thread type but is now almost impossible to find in Canada.
I have a Juki’s and polyester works so much better than cotton. I get much better stitches with polyester, but then I did switch to a higher quality cotton thread from superior threads.
I always question the best thread for machine made buttonholes. Is there one answer, or is it also a case of preference??
Im also switching to cotton, was so happy when I started seeing it be more common
I like to experiment, so I’ll test threads and stitches on scraps of what I’m using. Sometimes you get unexpected results that you’ll love! I recently tried a 60wt polyester thread that was meant for delicate overlocking to instead use on a quilting project. I got lots of texture and the thread looked invisible. Always save some scraps for play!
I love Aurifil cotton thread. It is a bit more expensive but my machine loves it, and it works so well. I sewed garments many, many years ago, stopped for the longest time, took up quilting (where absolutely every part was 100%cotton, which introduced me to Aurifil) and used it since I've just started garment sewing again.
My machine loves Aurifil 50 weight cotton thread. I was surprised at the difference it made in my stitch quality.
That thread is very very Linty
I’m starting to use a better quality thread from superior threads, the masterpiece cotton, the quality of Aurifil has gone downhill
A online store call connecting threads has the 50 weight cotton spools for like 5 bucks it even sew well in my industrial juki machine that's better than 20 for aurifil
Aurofil cotton thread, 30 - 50 wt, but it is so expensive....I use this for quilting.
My criteria for buying thread is color and weight. When I have a project, I take my fabric to JoAnn and get the best color match in the appropriate thickness. I thought that is what you were “supposed to do”. My sweet, sweet Momma was a stickler for color matching and so am I! I don’t think that my 1990s Sears Kenmore machine has ever noticed a difference in all the types/brands that I have, but I will be more attentive to this going forward.
Due to JoAnn’s bad financial situation (bankruptcy?), their inventory is extremely low right now so sometimes it’s been impossible to find a good color match.
Thank you for the tips Evelyn. I bought a polyester thread on sale but as soon as I started using it it was bunching and skipping on my machine when I sewed. Now I got a cotton thread and no issues here!
Hi there Evelyn. Always so great to see you and I love this video. I do feel thread can make a good garment great especially for
basting, seams, and finishing. I recall asking you this when I was looking to hand sew buttons and your guidance was spot on and you touched on this today when you spoke about the thickness of the thread. Thank you for sharing the thread topic on this channel! See you in Vintage Sewing School :)
Are you aware that she is fighting breast cancer?
I am a sewing teacher with a sewing studio that has quite a few sewing machines. My Bernina 790+ sewing machine loves the cotton Aurifil thread. Aurifil is silky and fine and it sews and presses beautifully. My industrial Juki DDL9000 FMS sewing machine doesn’t like the Aurifil thread at all! I find that my industrial machine likes the polyester threads better, so I only use polyester on that machine. My less fancy computer machines and my older mechanical machines don’t seem to care what thread I use. For the most part, I use Gutermann or Metrosene polyester thread for synthetic fabrics and cotton for natural fabrics.
This is good to know, as I got a very large thread stash from my mom when I started sewing! I've been adding newer threads as I go and using the older ones for hand basting, but it's nice when I already have the right color and thickness of thread in my stash, even if it's not the right fiber. When I do buy thread, I try to stick with natural fibers, though, since that's mostly the fabric I sew with.
I used to use Guttermann but I am switching to Venne-Colcotton. They make and sell biological threads, yarns for sewing, knitting, weaving in all kinds of fibres and weights. They are Dutch but sell also in Australia. The best thing I like is their customer service. If I do not know if a thread is suitable, they will always help.
It never occurred to me that we can call customer service to thread companies for advice. Thank you!
The 'break test' is useful for assessing thread when you don't know its origin or age. Just unwind some from the spool, and pull on it until it breaks. Do this to several different threads, and you get a sense of their comparative strength.
Sewing machines treat thread more roughly, and overlockers treat it more gently. Think of how far a sewing machine's take-up lever moves, and how much thread it drags back through the eye of the needle. Overlocker loopers can take some threads that are too fluffy or too delicate for a sewing machine.
I'm not convinced about the need to settle on one thread brand for one sewing machine. I mainly use Coats Epic 120 off 5000m cones, because it's the best value for money I've found for top-tier thread quality. But, for colours I use less often, I cheerfully switch to Gutermann or Amann.
You need to take a look at superior threads much better quality
@@dcwatashi What do you mean? I'm happy with all 3 of the products/brands I named.
There are better quality threads out there. Superior threads makes masterpiece cotton which is a much better cotton than what you would get at your typical fabric store and then there’s that king tut.
Wonderfil I think that’s what it’s called. Vanessa who has a channel called The Crafty Gemini uses that, but when you start watching RUclips channels of people who have been extremely successful over the years they never mention the thread that you’re talking about
Isacord is another high-quality thread but it is polyester.
Definitely is a plethora of thread nowadays
@@dcwatashi Thanks for clarifying. I sew on quite a thrifty budget, so I won't be switching from my favourite reliable core-spun polyester thread to a prestigious cotton at 10 times the price! (Yes, Masterpiece and Wonderfil really are that much more expensive where I live.) But maybe other readers will try your suggestions.
@@tomscrafts I got lucky and met a lady who has a side embroidery business.
She buys from a wholesale supplier
I couldn’t believe the price I was able to pay for that Masterpiece cotton. Basically 50% less. That just proves what a ridiculous mark up there is on thread.
Thank you for this review. This information has been very helpful. ❤
I think my thoughts on thread change when I hear different technologies, and what can be made these days. The right thread for the right job really does make a difference. I have purchased more cotton threads of late too, but I gotta admit that good old Guitterman is my tried and true go to....and Coats is an almost equal second.
Hello Evelyn, I just started watching your channel, as I am a beginner sewist, and want to know and learn everything I need to become a great sewest someday. I am in the process of now learning what different types of threads there are, and let me tell you, I was shocked to see what there are for threads. I am going thread crazy now, I had no idea as to what thread was for what and when to use it and how to use it on the proper garments, my goodness!!! There is so much to learn about all this sewing stuff, but I am so intrigued by it all too. I just came to notice all the different threads that are out there as of today, after my hubby came home with 2 different kinds of threads, I had no idea what the one thread is, as I had never heard of it, so I went to look it up on RUclips, but that really did not help as there was nothing that I could even find on this Mercerized Cotton Thread, it's almost an Alien species to the thread world as I can't seem to find what it is used for. PLEASE HELP!!! I Love your Style and your Fabulous new Hair Cut looks AMAZING on you. You are my newest inspiration. Thank you for being the New Sunshine in my Life.
I believe that type of thread is used for hand embroidery. Do a Google search for DMC floss and see what type of thread that it is. Maybe that will help your search.
Nope, go check out Metler thread. That should get your search headed somewhere.
I learned to sew in the 50s and used Coat's and Clark thread because that was what was available to us. In the 90s I took up hand quilting and gravitated toward 100% cotton fabric and thread. I have started teaching my great-granddaughter to sew and was appalled with the quality of the thread bought at the only fabric store for miles. I did wonder though, if the needle that came with the machine may play a part in the fraying of the thread. I am going to put her to work at the machine testing threads and needles for me. A learning experience for both of us.
I just got a new phaff and it hates polyester thread. But yes it may be your needle or the size of the needle or both playing good
You are always sooo helpful! I so appreciate this really good info about thread and it makes sense. I’m gonna look at my thread stash and see which threads I want to continue sewing with. Thank you! 🪡🧵
I think it all depends on what you are sewing. For bags and home dec, I always use polyester thread no matter what the fabric content is. For fabrics that are mixed content, I will use either cotton or polyester, for topstitching, always cotton. For tailored shirts, I use Aurifil cotton. Shirts are generally topstitched quite extensively, so Aurifil, which is only 2 ply cotton, works quite well and will disappear into the seams. For quilting, I always use Aurifil or size 50 or 60 DMC for both piecing and actual quilting. For a Chanel style jacket, I use polyester for the seams and often will use silk or rayon embroidery thread for the quilting and hand sewing. I could go on and on, but as I said, it all depends.
I have thoroughly enjoyed this video!.. Although I knew most of it, there is always something that you say to help us out..thank you so much! Cheers from Brisbane!
I was interested to hear that there was only polyester thread when you started sewing. I inherited my mothers box of threads when she died 13 years ago. Amongst it were many cotton threads, silk threads and machine embroidery threads (she used to do a lot embroidery especially when we were children). The embroidery threads are very much thinner than normal sewing threads. With the cotton threads some of them are on the old wooden cotton reels. It may well be that only polyester was available in Australia but cotton thread was around long before polyester and were certainly available in the UK and USA.
Very helpful vid, thanks. Are you willing to take on explaining thread numbering systems? I understand tex; too bad not all thread types use it. Denier makes sense for filament threads. Thread weight (wt) and thread size should be outlawed!. I have some old thread spools I inherited from my Mom and MIL. Some say size 40, some say 40 wt and some just have the number 40 on the spool. Some quick research left me to conclude that these are not necessarily the same size threads. Can you shed any light on this?
I love Gutermann and Metler(mercerized cotton). I try not to buy much but I think I need thread in every color imaginable. WAWAK has been my supplier, since Guterman cost so much in retail stores and I get a lot less thread in retail stores.
Resant is my thread of choice. My machine seems to hum along with it, lovely colours and very little fluff so it easier to thread and works through the machine easier.
Wonderfil !!!! Hands down ❤ they have so many options. I sew on a Juki and it loves decoBob. I have also used 100% cotton line. Depending on the project. I am a sewist, quilter, EPP, FPP, FMQ, bag maker and maker of all the things in my imagination. By hand or machine Wonderfil has my heart😊
Try connecting threads there 50 weight spool cotton only like 5 bucks and it works in my industrial juki machine
I like to match thread and fabric composition. This way I won't risk to melt the thread when ironing a cotton garment.
i think I'm gonna start doing the same, especially for linen garments that are hard to get ironed flat on lower settings. I found this video bc I accidentally melted my thread as I was sewing some linen pants, lucky it was only the pocket and at the beginning of the project but still, it'll be cotton thread for me from now on
A number of years ago, the owner of a fine fabric shop in out town passed away, and her daughter offered the sewing guild first dibs on her inventory. I bought some silk thread at a great price. My husband had a cotton/wool sweater which got a hole T the shoulder seam. I used the silk to mend it, and you would never know hole had existed. This would never have happened with a polyester.
Hi! I live in Portugal and always used cotton thread. But then I sewed some curtains, some of which with a simple drawn thread work. After 20 years of full sun exposure, the thread started to disappear!!! So now I use polyester thread for curtains and cotton thread for other purposes. 😊
Thanks you for your help Evelyn!Now I know why the thread I inherited from my grandmother doesn't work in the sewing machine. Perhaps it reached its shelf life? Always keeps on breaking when threaded.
One question. How to use embroidery thread in the sewing machine if it doesn't come in a spool?
Lote of hugs from Portugal 🇵🇹 and keep inspiring (sorry for the English 🥴)
I am just getting into sewing. This is fabulous. I never knew. Thank you
Yay thread! 🧵 Two questions:
1) Serger/overlocker thread is lower cost for some reason - is it ever appropriate to use serger thread cones in a regular domestic sewing machine?
2) Bobbins - Do you always use the exact same thread in the top and bobbin? I've seen pre-wound bobbins and also spools specifically marketed as bobbin thread and find that confusing
My go-to brand for cotton thread is Aurafil 50 weight, that's what I use for quilting and so far it's worked lovely for garments as well. Never had issues with thread breakage, but I have also yet to sew a more form-fitting garment with any cotton thread so I can't speak specifically to wear and tear in high-stress areas with Aurafil. It's a cult favorite for quilters for sure!
My go-to brand for polyester thread is Gutermann because they have a recycled polyester thread line, and it's widely available with coupons near me. I wish they had a wider variety of colors in the recycled line as in the regular lineup, but I'll take mainstream business progress where I can!
A few thoughts for you. What happened to mercerized cotton? I grew up with it in the 70s. Have you had trouble with polyester thread melting when ironed? I have read about different ways to tell thread weight, but most of the thread I come across in the store doesn't tell you. Coats and Clark talks about All Purpose, XP, and Heavy. (???) I like Coats and Clark because I grew up with it, even though a lot of people don't like it. I can use it on both my Singer 403 (upright spool pin) and my Singer 600e (horizontal spool pin). Parallel wound thread works on both machines. I think the secret is that the horizontal one has a cap that keeps it from flying off the pin. My older machines don't like the height of the new spools. I haven't had the courage to try cross wound thread yet.
Have you had a problem with Coats and Clarks plastic thread spools lately? I have had problems with the spool itself not being smooth. The thread gets caught up on the rough edges of the spool. It's like the manufacturer forgot to sand the rough edges off.
I know what you are talking about, but I haven't. it is extremely important to get the thread slot to the bottom of the spool holder. I mark that spot with a dot of fingernail polish. The upright spool holder doesn't go across the edges of the spool. The horizontal spool holder sits on top of the machine; it does not sit in a hole like new machines. It just feeds across the smooth top of the cap. The price of Guterman and other threads scare me off. Cross wound thread spools are so tall, I will have to buy a spool stand for them, two, one for each machine.
I've gotten several thrift store grab bags of cone threads and it's been amazing! Some say poly or cotton or rayon or the weights, but most of them are pretty unknown. Mostly, I am able to see which work best for my machine by testing them on my bobbin winder for breakage first. There were two invisible thread cones that I've been using for top stitching, and a giant black cone that actually breaks a lot so I use that doubled up for hand stitching. Each bag was under $10, so for that price, I don't care what they are AND I may never have to buy thread in my lifetime again! 🤣🧵
I have made horizontal spool pin by taping a bendable straw to upper back of machine and then using a cut piece of bigger straw over the horizontal bent portion of the bendable straw so it is stronger and can hold a spool of cross wound thread. It works on my vintage Kenmore machine. Also a stand alone spool stand is made for cross wound thread, they have thread feed up and off the end.
I mostly sew utility things like tool pouches, sacks for camping gear, and the like. I tried for seam strength by using T70, V69 thread. and a #100 / 16 needle or larger. My newer machines don't do well with the larger thread, so now I use thinner thread, but I lower the stitch length for more stitches. Some materials don't do as well with more stitches, (like maybe leather and vinyl)..I go back to my vintage machines.
What confuses me the most about thread is why there are so many standards. #69, T70, 210/3 are all the same as an example. There is serger, quilting, topstitching, outdoor One almost needs a thread standard conversion chart to see what is similar, (how does WT30 compare to T70 as an example).
Can WT40 thread be used as an all purpose thread, (I like to buy in bulk rolls when I can and use a thread stand next to the sewing machine).
Still new to sewing and this was so helpful. I live in a rural area but even my local craft/fabric store had all purpose, heavy duty, embroidery, quilting thread, specialty thread (what!?), etc. I looked through my stash and it seems I havesome Gütermann all purpose polyester and some Coats & Clark heavy duty (which I think is also polyester?). I saw some SUPER cool muticolored cotton thread that's a 'regular' 30 weight. It looks amazing but it's expensive and I have no idea what kind of project I'd use it for. Maybe top stitching or a simple decorative stitch around some shirt cuffs or a collar maybe?
I’m so happy I can use cotton threads thanks so much!
Another user of mainly Gutermann Sew-All.
I saw the comment about cross-threaded being better for horizontal pins, plain for vertical pins (tbh I just thought that vertical pins were the older style, horizontal the newer). I like Gutermann silk thread for hand-sewing and for buttonholes; however it's a 40 weight (I think), so about the same as sew-all thread, rather than thicker.
Something you didn't mention is that a lot of the thicker threads (like top-stitching thread, anything 30 weight or thicker) won't work in standard machine needles, as the eyes are too small (yes I found this out the hard way). There's an excellent wee video by Liz Grylls on top-stitching, one thing she suggests is to use upholstery/extra strong thread, not topstitching thread, as it's fine enough to use with regular needles, and saves so much switching around (for example if making jeans... I had two machines threaded up the first time I tried, one for the regular seams, and the other for the topstitching!!).
Very interesting, informative and useful ~ thank you! 🧵💙
I recently purchased some Gutermann Maraflex elastic thread, to try when sewing knit fabrics. Generally I use Gutermann polyester thread, but occasionally cotton
Thank you for that Evelyn. One of my dresses seams snaped and I was told to use polyester and not cotton as polyester has more stretch.
I have some lovely silk chiffon prints and also some very fine cotton/silk mixture prints. I have made 6 lovely short sleeved faced-neck pull-on blouses. They didn't last very long, which would have broken my heart if I didn't have a 50 litre plastic box stuffed full of similar fabrics.
I have decided not to use polyester thread on fragile fabrics any more, even though it is easy to get a colour match, and poly thread is fine. But if there is any strain on the garment seams, the fabric tears, while the sewing thread remains undamaged. This is irreparable.
A weaker sewing thread will break, allowing the fabric to survive. The split seam is easily sewn up again.
Cootes Moon thread and guterman on sewing machine, overlocker moon and the cones in different colours
Evelyn, speaking of the cotton thread and the fuzzies. Does this build up extra lint in the machine? Does it require cleaning more frequently. Thanks.
I just bought a vintage Singer sewing box full of goodies for $25 here in Queensland. Has heaps of different thread in many colours 😊 I will test each before sewing but am hopefully on a winner 🧵🪡🧵
I love getting vintage notions, I use vintage thread for basting stitches. It might be to old to hold a garment together but it’s great for basting stitches. 👍🏽
@@I_sew_slow great idea 😊 was fun sorting through my find, it even had three packets of hose mending thread in “fashionable shades” 💃
@@moyralouise7123 I’ve never found hose mending thread, sounds like you got some interesting treasures 💞
I buy bags of notions at thrift stores. Sometimes there is thread. I just try it out. If it snaps in the machine, it gets tossed into a box for hand sewing (unless it is just rotting away completely). At some point I might commit to one brand, but right now I'm saving money and doing good for the earth.
@@I_sew_slow my Aunty told me that my Nanna used to use the same thread to mend panty hose during WW11, amazing coincidence 😊
I use Coats & Clark. Was wondering what thread is best for knit fabrics? I have heard some thread has more "stretch" than others but don't know much about the topic. Would love to hear your thoughts. I'm new to your channel and love these videos you are creating about "what to use when". Just watched the one about when to change your sewing machine needle, it was fabulous.
Fellow newbie here, what I have heard is it matters more what stitch you select on your machine for knit fabrics. For instance a zig-zag stitch is considered a "stretch stitch" because there is flexibility in the actual stitch line. Unlike a straight stitch which just pops if you stretch it too much. I always test the exact thread and exact stitch settings on a scrap of the knit fabric I am about to work with to try a few settings before sewing any actual seams
Knits I use polyester that what I was tot along with a small zig zag stitch same for swim wear
I might have missed this, but did you happen to mention if shrinkage can be a factor with cotton threads? Thats something I've been wondering about. If it is, how can we plan for it? Thanks!
I love Mettler cotton thread in a 50 weight. It sews beautifully in my Janome machine.
I too prefer using natural fibers but it seems the only choice for an overlock machine is polyester. It’s also been difficult to find cotton thread for my industrial sewing machine. Any suggestions for these machines in the natural fiber threads?
So helpful thank you!!
Interesting topic Evelyn! I’ve found my machine likes some thread better than others. I really like Glide brand but it is a bit difficult to find. I mostly use Guttermann. Can you go more in depth regarding thread weights. (Mara 220, 150, 100 etc. and Tex 13, 20, 25 etc. Also what do you think of stretch or wooly nylon in sergers?
Newbie sewer. Thanks heaps on video.
I’ve been collecting vintage threads and they are very different! Wondering what you think of that topic?
I had heard that it is helpful to be selective, mindful of buying and using older threads. It is *possible* that some of these threads weaken over time. But, I like the spirit and authenticity of your vibe. 🙂
I came to sewing through quilting (though I did my stint in the middle school home economics course sewing stuffed animals like everyone else in the early '80s). As a quilter, I was taught "only cotton" and I have never turned back. I know polyester is more forgiving, but I just love cotton. And my brand is Gutermann. Honestly, I picked up one of the newly marketed Chinese lines (brothread) simply for economic reasons but I have yet to test it against Gutermann. I would be interested to know if anyone has tested their stock as well.
I have used the Brothread machine embroidery thread on many occasions when I’ve run out of my regular Gutermann all purpose sewing thread and it worked like a dream. Evelyn’s video has certainly given me something to think about in switching to cotton but will do it gradually as my current stash begins to go down.
Try not to buy anything from China. They don’t deserve our money.
My Aunt (who was a school teacher) made herself a new dress. However, the first time she wore the dress it started falling apart. She had sewn her cotton dress together with rayon thread. The heat of her iron damaged the thread. This was back in the late 1950's; and, I always remember what happened to my Aunt, when I was picking out my thread. Will it take the heat of a hot iron? Will it be too strong and cut the fabric? Will it be strong enough to hold the garment together in the high strain areas?
Thank you, this was soooo helpful!!
I found out the hard way that I needed to use cotton thread in linen garments that needed to be ironed on high heat. The polyester threads just fell apart after several launderings and ironings
Is high heat really necessary?
When I go thrifting, I always look at the threads in the craft corner. I tend to look for classic quality brands, and I look at the thread itself; Is the color still even? Is the thread smooth (fluffy thread is really bad for your machine)? If I'm not sure I do a pull test (to see how easily it snaps), but usually it's fine! I have all the colors of the rainbow now!
I have some metallic thread - gutermann - and I use with a needle for metallic thread. However, it still seems to strip the thread after a few stitches. Have you any experience or tips and if so can you please do a video on this.
Great video. What is your opinion on invisible thread?
I use Gutermann upholstery thread for sewing leather. It is polyester, very durable, and you cannot break it with hand strength.
I use Coats & Clark dual duty XP tex 30 poly thread for cotton and poly garment fabric, as well as quilts, It’s so durable and long lasting. I only use long staple cotton thread for bowl cozies and hot pads.
I grew up in South Georgia USA next to cotton patches and near two Coats and Clark's plants, one 45 miles in one direction and 35 miles in the other. We thought it was the only thread brand. It was affordable, available, and as strong as we needed it to be. We never thought about whether our machines "liked" it. I'm 74 now and confess I've gone through some thread snobbery stages buying expensive brands etc. But the Coats and Clark's thread has never failed me and I am happy to say I that I buy it more than any other brand. Sadly the plants closed in Georgia and moved mostly to Mexico but I do think the thread is still good and affordable. Actually I've recently heard rumors of them reopening some Georgia plants and we still have cotton growing in our area.
@@paulasalter1041 Nice to know, thanks for the info. I’ve used 4 different sewing machines, different brands also, and have never had an issue with C&C dual duty thread. It’s the only thread brand I use. I know other sewers, quilters and seamstresses that always use C&C. I hope they reopen in Georgia!
I use Coats & Clark as well. I live in Tennessee and am surrounded by cotton fields as well. Not in my thread though. Will stick with what works for me IE... polyester.
@@tinamccartney3778the Dual Duty is poly-cotton blend and that's what I use except when I hand quilt and then I generally use the Coats and Clark's cotton hand quilting thread.
Connecting threads cotton spools for like 5 bucks and it likes my industrial juki
I use Gutermann Mara 70 on rayon and thin cottons, seems to work best between robustness and flexibility
I will get random second hand thread when thrifting, but my go-to is gutermann polyester thread.
My machine likes it, it won't snap when I stretch in a tight garment, and it's available basically everywhere. My only problem with it is that it gets static when I'm handsewing.
Thank you Evelyn, great topic
I'm mending a wool blanket that my mother made and many sources online suggested silk thread for wool. Since the cotton thread is what's failing on my mother's blanket I'm hoping that silk will last longer.
Best thread for hemming denim please. I like a think thread but not sure if what to buy?
Hello, what is the shelf life of thread? I have many, many spools from my grandmother. Thank you!
I like my thread to be no stronger than my fabric - if something is going to get stressed to the point of failure I'd rather it was the seam, which is easy to repair, than the fabric which is nowhere near as easy to repair. And I also don't want a thread that will, over time, "cut", weaken or abrade the fabric it is stitched into.
I've heard about this with silk thread, that it's so strong that the fabric will rip before the stitch line will! Fascinating
Do you have a video on different sizes sewing machine needles and why are why not to use them on what are whatnot??
As an aside, I have only one thread rule based on my personal experience. I always use cotton rather than silk thread sewing woven fabric. Since silk is much stronger than cotton, the stitches were pulled right of the hem. I always make the expensive mistakes. 😆
Please keep the receipt & test the thread soon after buying (unwind some and pull tight) I bought "new" thread during last year's Joann's doorbuster (not Gutermann polyester) cheaper poly in big bins B2G1free. It's all breaking even in hand-sewing. and jammed my machine.
Hi Evelyn- I did have a question- is there a particular way to store thread? I had a bunch of thread (name brand- but a few years old) that seemed to break easily when I pulled on it- I was wondering if it was due to the way I stored it- I had the spools on one of those wooden racks you put on the wall.
Preshrinking question: I also am transitioning to all natural materials. When using all natural thread with natural material, do I need to somehow pre-shrink the thread, as well as the material? I know that I’m supposed to preshrink material, but if I’m using cotton thread, will it shrink after the garment has been sewed and create puckering? I might be over thinking this. Also, when I hand sew I coat the thread in beeswax to help prevent fraying. When I machine see I obviously do not. Just not sure how natural thread will work with the preshrinking process.
I have been near tears and almost given up sewing because I can not manage to get the thread tension correct. No matter how much I adjust the bobbin or the top thread tension, the bottom loops always show on top and I can’t get a nice clean stitch. However, I’m thinking it could be because I’m using 30+ year old thread that belonged to my grandmother. Could new thread be the simple solution?
In three words, oh heck yes! Take that thread out of the machine and treasure it inside a mason jar on a shelf. You will see so much difference!
I’m with Terri!! With sewing always try the easy things first so quality of your thread then your needle. Those two can do some very weird things to sewing and are the easiest to fix!
Please don't give up, play with some new thread. And if you are open to a tip, your grandmothers thread may make for great use with hand basting :)
Definitely change the thread and try again. And fiddle with the top tension a lot before even trying to touch the bobbin tension (that's usually not the problem). It sounds like your top tension might be too tight?
Sewing machine maintenance can also help a lot if you're still struggling, it might just be that the timing is slightly off or that your tension discs are grimey and giving you uneven tension.
Switched the thread and it didn’t solve the problem. I’ve turned the tension all the way down to 1 and it’s still not quite right. Going that low just seems crazy but 🤷♀️. This is the second machine that this has happened to due to my touching it.
I’ve rethreaded and wound the bobbins multiple times following the instructions. Could I be missing something?
I use Mara and choose the weight based on the fabric. So I use Mara 100 and Mara 30. My machines range from a Singer 201 to a Juki 8700.
Should you use the same thread in the bobbin as you use to thread the upper part of the machine
I live in a very humid environment and have noticed my threads seem to snap easily. I keep my threads out, uncovered and also have been using threads from Aldi and Lidl. What are your thoughts?
what is the largest spool size/brand i can fit in a regular sowing machine? I cant seem to find any information on this. I don't want to use a seperate cone holder, just to fit it on my vertical or horizontal pin. Most i've heard is that the 500m Gutterman sew all fits.
Another comment: I heard an interview with Kenneth King, and he said that a lot of times his couture garments will be donated to a museum after the initial customer is finished with it. So he always uses polyester for his garments as it will last for a very long time.
Thank you for doing this. 💖💖
What top are you wearing? Is this a knit or woven? Lovely top.
Question. Do you have a video on how to make facing? So many patterns just fold under. Not a professional look and it never looks good. I would much rather put a facing in or a binding of some sort.
Back in my historical re-enacting days, a friend made a facing pattern for me and I still use it to this day. However I think that you would need an hour to two-hour class on this. It IS a bit complicated and best done with a friend to fit it on you, but once you have done it, you can use the same facing pattern again and again.
Love threads. I decide project by project.
I know I HAVE to be a good bit older than you, so I do remember having no real choice of thread types. I also remember the discount stores that would have huge bins of thread for like 3 or 4 for a dollar. Those were really garbage! I did purchase a very few of them, but soon realized they were no good. I have a lot of thread, such as embroidery thread for my embroidery machine, then mostly, I think, general purpose thread in the sewing machine threads. For the sewing machine part of my embroidery/sewing machine, I have been using the embroidery thread for both sewing and embroidery. I have a ton of colors to choose from, and it is just easier to use than having to get up and go through my sewing threads. Also, the cotton thread -- not sure about sewing machines, but on embroidery machines (at least the folks in my circle) cotton thread leaves tons of fuzz. I believe you did mention that.
I use the not-so-good discount store thread I found in an old box for quick basting on my toiles. Don’t throw anything away if you can help it!
March 24, 2023
Is cotton thread pre-shrunk???
Many thanks :) Kim
Dear Evelyn, I have indeed two more questions. I've heard that we shouldn't use old thread because it might age and break. Is that the same with polyester thread or only with cotton and natural fiber? And my second question. Is thread for serger and the household sewing machine interchangeable?
Polyester thread still degrades over time. Especially when they've been sat in moist or sunny environments. That doesn't mean they're all unusable, but you need to look carefully. Is the thread still smooth? Is the color even? Does it take effort to break the thread with your hands?
And no serger thread is generally lesser quality since you need more of it, and it needs to handle less stress than normal machine sewing thread. At the very least I'd never use serger thread on my normal sewing machine, and using machine sewing thread on the serger is kind of wasteful (though possible).
@@Rhaifha thank you very much