Hi, Thanks a lot for the video. I have no clue on how to use this tool... what settings do i need to use in order to test a 36V 12.8Ah battery? Thanks a lot!
What do you mean by a "1c" and "2c" discharge rate? What is the "c" rating? Are you talking about the temperature? How do you use a lithium batterie's "cut out"? What's a cut out?
Hello, C rating is a measurement of depleting a battery. 100ah battery in 1 hour empty is a 1C, a 100ah battery empty in 2 hour is 0.5C Cut out is a safe voltage cut out. For a 12v lithium, it's 10v. Any lower it damages the batteries. This is the voltage battery management systems stop at. Hope that helps.
What is the battery capacity checker called and where did you find it? I already have one of the heatsink versions but I'd like to find a passthough like yours.
thank you for loading the video but...I still don't know hpow the batery capacity is determined. E.g. @ 9 minutes to 9:17 min. leave the capacity tester and then come back to see what the capacity is. What will I see? a sign that says the capacity is so and so ? Or will I see some numbers that will mean nothing unless I know how to interpret them> and where will I see them? It the battery claimed apacity is 100 Ah and I hook up a 10 Amp load it will take 10 hours to discharge the battery. Is it not going to damage the battery to drain it completely? Will the BMS not prevent the battery to discharge completely? If it will prevent it, then how do we know the capacity if the test ist halted by the BMS ???? A lot A lot of unclear points. Wich neither this or other videos explain. I am still in complete darkness on how to find out my newly arrived Lifepo 4 battery's capacity.
Thanks Jo for watching. The BMS will cut the power once it see's the cells hit 2.5v which is considered empty. We don't discharge any lower. It's standard to test to this voltage (10v overall is it's a 4s pack) If the cells are all balanced correctly. The cells should hit the 2.5v at the same time. On the capacity tester it will say just that. 100ah, the ah will increase and increase as the test goes on. There are no number to determine or calculations, it says the ah on the display with the amount of amps going through the tester. This was one of my early video's. I am smoother now I hope! Maybe it's a video I should re record. I am just about to order some new cells. I do have some other battery testing video's which I reviewed, maybe I answer them in there.
@@SolarPowerChannelwithChris Thank you for that clarification but if I may still ask something about my particular situation. I just received an Aliexpress 12v 300 Ah lifepo4 battery. How do I know they sent me a 300 ah not a 200 Ah. I do have a tester as one on your video. Do I carge the battery to full charge and then hook it up to the tester. And set a cut off voltage ( the voltage at which the capacity tester will stop discharging the battery ) at , say 11.5 volts. What should I get for a result? 300 Ah if it is indeed a 300 Ah battery. or does a 300 Ah mean it has that many amps but If I draw that much out, I will destroy it?
@@joeshow8815 that's a big battery! Charge it all the way till the battery is full (14.6v) Allow the BMS to disconnect the charger, with your multi meter check each cell voltage. You should see 3.65v per cell. Connect your capacity tester as a load. Allow the BMS to disconnect at 2.5v per cell. Don't use the disconnect on the capacity tester which is 10v. As a cell could drop to 2v and another could be 3v say put overall the capacity tester is seeing 10v. Hope that's clear. The BMS is there to protect the batteries. Allow it to do it's disconnects on high and low voltages. It's good you are testing, as if the cells are not as advertised you can raise a claim. If you charge your battery up and notice some cells are not touching 3.65v together. Connect the cells in parallel over night. ++++ and ---- together. The current will normally find it's level. If your BMS has balancing, leave ot connected and you will noticed the charge firing up and stopping. If it has blue tooth on the BMS it will show you the cell voltages and a light on for balancing. No you won't damage it using it's full capacity. They can cycle 1000's of times. But the more you discharge the more stress you give the battery over the years. I charge my batteries to 13.4v and 11v. Please see my earliest video. Hope that's clearer. Always use a BMS, do you have one?
@@SolarPowerChannelwithChris My 12v 300 Ah battery is enclosed. Only a neg and a pos connection are is ight. Everything else is enclose and theseller claimed it has a BMS. It myst be inside the case. without breaking open the case I have no access to test individual cells. I tend to trust the seller the BMS is inside.
Some youtubers like Will Prowse use PC graphing programs to give a nice visual for the battery capacity testing. What hardware and software is he using, do you suppose?
West Mountain Radio CBA IV. Honestly I think ZKE Tech makes a simpler product to use with about the same features. Most popular are the A20, 20A discharge max, 85W max, discharge voltage 0-30V, charge voltage is based on your power input max of 19.5V 5A. Good for single cells up to 20A or small packs. The EBC A40L is a 40A max discharge, 40A max recharge 0-5V good for testing individual cells especially large LiFeP04. They also make discharge only units that are labeled EBD not EBC. Some for single cells some for packs with a 12-72V nominal range, one for 10A and another for 20A. I woiuld probably not choose the Atorch 600W or 1200W battery capacity tester. Its just a bunch of DL24 type modules in a box. The ability to recharge with some of the EBC models from ZKE Tech allow you to do cycling so you don't have to reset it. You could cycle a cell multiple times which is handy when you want to make sure you have a large sample size or if you want to increase the discharge rate for each successive discharge cycle. You can also set a rest period in between each part of the cycle with the ZKE Tech "EB Software"
HI Chris, I assume then for an accurate capacity test, you should charge up to 14.6v and set the BMS to disconnect at 3.65v and 2.50v and once you have confirmed your capacity, then reset your BMS to a more maintainable voltage (3.31v - 3.22v 80% - 20%)?
You got it, pretty simple. Same as my e bike I never fully charge or discharge it. People seem to be keen on squeezing as much out their cells. The other thing to watch, don't discharge the cells to fast, stresses the cells lowing there capacity. 0.2c discharge can really improve 1000'sof cycles (-20amps on a 100ah lifepo4)
@@SolarPowerChannelwithChris Thanks Chris, it looks like my BMS is knackered. I have the same Wate 10 Amp charger that you have, but when I connect it to the BMS, the LED stays green. The BMS is showing a negative Current and the SOC is falling (no matter what I set it to). I will have to go back to them and see. Only problem is I bought it ages ago when I ordered my batteries, so the time to open a dispute has passed. Thanks for getting back to me.
Voltage is not a good way to measure SOC for LiFeP04. Besides cells all being different ( I have some that hit the flat part of the curve at 3.32 and others at 3.30 on a 0.2C load) you also have to deal with voltage drop. If your battery is hit with a decent sized load, say 1C or higher, you're going to see voltage drops that might put you lower than 3.22V right off the bat. The most conservative I would be is 3.40 to 2.90 for small loads and down to 2.75 if the possibility of large loads exists. I really don't believe this whole playing the middle of the state of charge is as crucial for LiFeP04 as it is for Lithium Ion NMC, NCA, etc. Firstly, LiFeP04 is going to last so many cycles that you might not ever hit that 80% "End of Life" number in your lifetime unless you cycle it daily. The other issue is memory effect. No, its not just a NiCad, there are studies indicating that LiFeP04 might suffer a similar memory effect problem when only a certain SOC range is used repeatedly. I'd like to see more research on this before conclusively accepting it but it is a good reason to question overly conservative charge and discharge cutoff points.
It's quite simple.....industry standard is 0.2C discharge rate. So take the Ah of your battery, divide by 5 and thats the amp load you need to place. 20Ah battery, 4A load.Your tester or BMS can do the cutoff so it doesn't discharge too deeply. Then read the number on the meter.
Hi,
Thanks a lot for the video.
I have no clue on how to use this tool... what settings do i need to use in order to test a 36V 12.8Ah battery? Thanks a lot!
Nice video Chris 😁
What do you mean by a "1c" and "2c" discharge rate? What is the "c" rating? Are you talking about the temperature? How do you use a lithium batterie's "cut out"? What's a cut out?
Hello, C rating is a measurement of depleting a battery. 100ah battery in 1 hour empty is a 1C, a 100ah battery empty in 2 hour is 0.5C
Cut out is a safe voltage cut out. For a 12v lithium, it's 10v. Any lower it damages the batteries. This is the voltage battery management systems stop at. Hope that helps.
What is the battery capacity checker called and where did you find it? I already have one of the heatsink versions but I'd like to find a passthough like yours.
thank you for loading the video but...I still don't know hpow the batery capacity is determined. E.g. @ 9 minutes to 9:17 min. leave the capacity tester and then come back to see what the capacity is. What will I see? a sign that says the capacity is so and so ? Or will I see some numbers that will mean nothing unless I know how to interpret them> and where will I see them? It the battery claimed apacity is 100 Ah and I hook up a 10 Amp load it will take 10 hours to discharge the battery. Is it not going to damage the battery to drain it completely? Will the BMS not prevent the battery to discharge completely? If it will prevent it, then how do we know the capacity if the test ist halted by the BMS ???? A lot A lot of unclear points. Wich neither this or other videos explain. I am still in complete darkness on how to find out my newly arrived Lifepo 4 battery's capacity.
Thanks Jo for watching. The BMS will cut the power once it see's the cells hit 2.5v which is considered empty. We don't discharge any lower. It's standard to test to this voltage (10v overall is it's a 4s pack) If the cells are all balanced correctly. The cells should hit the 2.5v at the same time. On the capacity tester it will say just that. 100ah, the ah will increase and increase as the test goes on. There are no number to determine or calculations, it says the ah on the display with the amount of amps going through the tester. This was one of my early video's. I am smoother now I hope! Maybe it's a video I should re record. I am just about to order some new cells. I do have some other battery testing video's which I reviewed, maybe I answer them in there.
@@SolarPowerChannelwithChris Thank you for that clarification but if I may still ask something about my particular situation. I just received an Aliexpress 12v 300 Ah lifepo4 battery. How do I know they sent me a 300 ah not a 200 Ah. I do have a tester as one on your video. Do I carge the battery to full charge and then hook it up to the tester. And set a cut off voltage ( the voltage at which the capacity tester will stop discharging the battery ) at , say 11.5 volts. What should I get for a result? 300 Ah if it is indeed a 300 Ah battery. or does a 300 Ah mean it has that many amps but If I draw that much out, I will destroy it?
@@joeshow8815 that's a big battery! Charge it all the way till the battery is full (14.6v) Allow the BMS to disconnect the charger, with your multi meter check each cell voltage. You should see 3.65v per cell. Connect your capacity tester as a load. Allow the BMS to disconnect at 2.5v per cell. Don't use the disconnect on the capacity tester which is 10v. As a cell could drop to 2v and another could be 3v say put overall the capacity tester is seeing 10v. Hope that's clear. The BMS is there to protect the batteries. Allow it to do it's disconnects on high and low voltages. It's good you are testing, as if the cells are not as advertised you can raise a claim. If you charge your battery up and notice some cells are not touching 3.65v together. Connect the cells in parallel over night. ++++ and ---- together. The current will normally find it's level. If your BMS has balancing, leave ot connected and you will noticed the charge firing up and stopping. If it has blue tooth on the BMS it will show you the cell voltages and a light on for balancing. No you won't damage it using it's full capacity. They can cycle 1000's of times. But the more you discharge the more stress you give the battery over the years. I charge my batteries to 13.4v and 11v. Please see my earliest video. Hope that's clearer. Always use a BMS, do you have one?
ruclips.net/video/1EpHGK-Un0U/видео.html
See this video..
@@SolarPowerChannelwithChris My 12v 300 Ah battery is enclosed. Only a neg and a pos connection are is ight. Everything else is enclose and theseller claimed it has a BMS. It myst be inside the case. without breaking open the case I have no access to test individual cells. I tend to trust the seller the BMS is inside.
Do you know why it stop testing and says _tips?_
Some youtubers like Will Prowse use PC graphing programs to give a nice visual for the battery capacity testing. What hardware and software is he using, do you suppose?
West Mountain Radio CBA IV. Honestly I think ZKE Tech makes a simpler product to use with about the same features. Most popular are the A20, 20A discharge max, 85W max, discharge voltage 0-30V, charge voltage is based on your power input max of 19.5V 5A. Good for single cells up to 20A or small packs. The EBC A40L is a 40A max discharge, 40A max recharge 0-5V good for testing individual cells especially large LiFeP04. They also make discharge only units that are labeled EBD not EBC. Some for single cells some for packs with a 12-72V nominal range, one for 10A and another for 20A.
I woiuld probably not choose the Atorch 600W or 1200W battery capacity tester. Its just a bunch of DL24 type modules in a box. The ability to recharge with some of the EBC models from ZKE Tech allow you to do cycling so you don't have to reset it. You could cycle a cell multiple times which is handy when you want to make sure you have a large sample size or if you want to increase the discharge rate for each successive discharge cycle. You can also set a rest period in between each part of the cycle with the ZKE Tech "EB Software"
Hope you making a video of how you made that battery back
Yes, please see my previous video's.
Please can you tell me how to set the low voltage cut off, it set to
You tried double tapping? I could do a quick video in how to use!
@@SolarPowerChannelwithChris that worked, thanks
HI Chris, I assume then for an accurate capacity test, you should charge up to 14.6v and set the BMS to disconnect at 3.65v and 2.50v and once you have confirmed your capacity, then reset your BMS to a more maintainable voltage (3.31v - 3.22v 80% - 20%)?
You got it, pretty simple. Same as my e bike I never fully charge or discharge it. People seem to be keen on squeezing as much out their cells. The other thing to watch, don't discharge the cells to fast, stresses the cells lowing there capacity. 0.2c discharge can really improve 1000'sof cycles (-20amps on a 100ah lifepo4)
@@SolarPowerChannelwithChris Thanks Chris, it looks like my BMS is knackered. I have the same Wate 10 Amp charger that you have, but when I connect it to the BMS, the LED stays green. The BMS is showing a negative Current and the SOC is falling (no matter what I set it to). I will have to go back to them and see. Only problem is I bought it ages ago when I ordered my batteries, so the time to open a dispute has passed. Thanks for getting back to me.
Voltage is not a good way to measure SOC for LiFeP04. Besides cells all being different ( I have some that hit the flat part of the curve at 3.32 and others at 3.30 on a 0.2C load) you also have to deal with voltage drop. If your battery is hit with a decent sized load, say 1C or higher, you're going to see voltage drops that might put you lower than 3.22V right off the bat. The most conservative I would be is 3.40 to 2.90 for small loads and down to 2.75 if the possibility of large loads exists.
I really don't believe this whole playing the middle of the state of charge is as crucial for LiFeP04 as it is for Lithium Ion NMC, NCA, etc. Firstly, LiFeP04 is going to last so many cycles that you might not ever hit that 80% "End of Life" number in your lifetime unless you cycle it daily. The other issue is memory effect. No, its not just a NiCad, there are studies indicating that LiFeP04 might suffer a similar memory effect problem when only a certain SOC range is used repeatedly. I'd like to see more research on this before conclusively accepting it but it is a good reason to question overly conservative charge and discharge cutoff points.
2:32 I like that😍💋 💝💖❤️
Need lovely 😍💋 💝💖❤️
You gotta be kidding beginner friendly ha
It's quite simple.....industry standard is 0.2C discharge rate. So take the Ah of your battery, divide by 5 and thats the amp load you need to place. 20Ah battery, 4A load.Your tester or BMS can do the cutoff so it doesn't discharge too deeply. Then read the number on the meter.