Hello! This is great :) please would you consider doing a climbing specific hip exercises video? Working on hip stability and strength/injury rehab for hip flexors, glutes etc. Thanks!
Thanks for reaching out and the question! We have made this (link at end of comment) lower extremity exercise routine for climbing, give it a watch (if you haven't) and if you're looking for something more specific (more hip specific stuff, for example) then definitely let me know and we'll add it to the list! ruclips.net/video/_XONhxQ-Gbk/видео.html
Hey Hooper! I'd love your input on my situation: I've had an ulnar osteotomy to reduce positive ulnar variance that caused ulnar impaction syndrome. Well after recovering from the surgery and doing the proper PT (about 10 months later), I started developing a new pain when bouldering. Basically, when doing a hard pinch or actively flexing the forearm, I get a pain that shoots up from the ulnar side of the wrist up my forearm halfway to my elbow. My PT suspects it's a tendinopathy, but I've done all the usual things to treat it (wrist stabilizing exercises, rest, heat or ice (tried both), etc) and it won't seem to go away. Any theories? Love your videos, you've helped me so much with getting my body ready for climbing during recovery!!
Okay, so i have a weird question. I had wrist problems ever since i started climbing, and never could really progress, as every time i tried something thats a little harder, i got injured. Recently, after looking at some people climbing, i noticed that they tense their weist extensor muscles while holding climbing holds, what i actually don‘t. When holding any hold, my extensors are totally relaxed. My theory is, that without tensing the extensors, the needed stability in the wrist isn‘t given, which causes it to injure easily.. does that make sense? If so, is there any way to train to use the extensors while climbing? I recently started hangboarding, during which i concentrate on tensing the whole wrist, to hopefully learn to do that when climbing too. I also try to have my wrists completely tense when climbing in general, but i can‘t tell if this helps me or not.
Thanks for the comment! Hmmm, so first off, I will say I think that your extensors must be tensed some, but perhaps they are not as strong as they need to be? Here's some background. OK, so to even make a fist your wrist extensors activate. That's because of a length tension relationship. Your wrist flexors are actually stronger and better at gripping when the wrist is slightly extended. Think of a Velcro strap. If you lay the two pieces perfectly on top of each other, you get a strong connection. If you go too far or too short and there's little overlap, the connection isn't as strong. So, naturally, the wrist extensors activate to try and get the wrist flexors into their "idea" length-tension overlap position. Try this for example: let your wrist sort of "dangle" in a flexed position. Then make a fist. You'll notice when you make a fist your wrist naturally goes into a slightly extended position. That's due to activation of your wrist extensors. Now, with all that said. If that's not you... you may have a nerve palsy which you need to get fully evaluated. If you don't have a nerve palsy and the aforementioned does apply to you, your wrist flexors may just be waayyy stronger than your wrist extensors, which causes the imbalance and the injuries you are seeing. Hope this helps!
I've noticed a very similar problem for myself, my idea is to train in relaxed three finger drag more frequently so my flexors/extensors balance each other out, since I'm always in that natural tense position that comes from fully clasping the fingers and thumb. If you're still around 3 years later, does this sound like a good idea? Has anything in particular helped you along your journey? Did you try a wrist widget? Thank you.
Its unfortunate that this requires equipment that most people wouldn't have access to, would be nice to have a similar video but with more common / no equipment needed (if its possible)
In lieu of medicine balls you can always use a soccer, basketball, volley ball, or even an American football for the exercises, at least that's what I use during covid. Instead of a bosu, I tried using a stability ball with elevated feet, which is not as effective but better than nothing. You can get very creative with most exercises!
What's the advantage of using medicine balls vs say a basketball + kid's soccer ball? Does the weight of the medicine ball make them significantly more stable? I have 2 kids, barely have time to ever make it to a climbing gym let alone one with extra equipment for these exercises. Have old man wrist problems tho.
If you find some of them to be too easy then you don't need to do those. The ones that you find moderately challenging are best, and then as those get easier continue to work your way up. Then long term keep the ones that you can continue to progress with (and that you find to be fun!)
Hello! Just found your channel! It's really nice and it's been helping me a lot. I have one question. I had an injury in my wrist a couple years ago. It does not hurt when climbing, but since I've had it, I could never support my weight in my wrist when in pushup position. It just hurts a lot, it's seems like a shock in my back of the hand, like in the junction between the back of the hand and the forearm. Do you have any tips? I'm stretching a lot my forearm flexors and extensors and I feel like extensors stretching relieves the pain temporarily. Thanks! Great channel!
Welcome to the channel! Glad that it is helping you already. That's a great question but a slightly hard one to answer without a physical exam as it could be two completely contradictory possibilities. One possible problem (and the more likely one) is the mobility of your wrist joint. Your doing half of it right by stretching the forearm flexors and extensors, but if you have lost some wrist mobility from your initial injury, the wrist may not be moving enough when going into that position of discomfort. This would be a result of the joint space decreasing. As the joint space decreases, it can cause compression of the tissue or just the joint itself, which can produce the pain that you feel. The real problem... it can be the opposite! If you have too much mobility as a result of your injury, then the joint may be unstable which is causing your pain. If that's the case, performing wrist mobilizations won't help, and rather you need to work on strength and stability! Again, hard to say which is the correct answer without a physical exam. A good PT or OT should be able to identify this! If you decide to try wrist mobs, see if it helps with your pain immediately after, and that can be a good indication of what the problem actually is. Sorry there isn't a direct answer but hope this helps
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Hello! This is great :) please would you consider doing a climbing specific hip exercises video? Working on hip stability and strength/injury rehab for hip flexors, glutes etc. Thanks!
Thanks for reaching out and the question! We have made this (link at end of comment) lower extremity exercise routine for climbing, give it a watch (if you haven't) and if you're looking for something more specific (more hip specific stuff, for example) then definitely let me know and we'll add it to the list!
ruclips.net/video/_XONhxQ-Gbk/видео.html
@@HoopersBeta The leg training vid was great, but some more hip specific stuff would be *very* helpful!
this is genius! i must try this. thanks, Doc!
Hey Hooper! I'd love your input on my situation: I've had an ulnar osteotomy to reduce positive ulnar variance that caused ulnar impaction syndrome. Well after recovering from the surgery and doing the proper PT (about 10 months later), I started developing a new pain when bouldering. Basically, when doing a hard pinch or actively flexing the forearm, I get a pain that shoots up from the ulnar side of the wrist up my forearm halfway to my elbow. My PT suspects it's a tendinopathy, but I've done all the usual things to treat it (wrist stabilizing exercises, rest, heat or ice (tried both), etc) and it won't seem to go away. Any theories?
Love your videos, you've helped me so much with getting my body ready for climbing during recovery!!
Okay, so i have a weird question. I had wrist problems ever since i started climbing, and never could really progress, as every time i tried something thats a little harder, i got injured. Recently, after looking at some people climbing, i noticed that they tense their weist extensor muscles while holding climbing holds, what i actually don‘t. When holding any hold, my extensors are totally relaxed. My theory is, that without tensing the extensors, the needed stability in the wrist isn‘t given, which causes it to injure easily.. does that make sense? If so, is there any way to train to use the extensors while climbing? I recently started hangboarding, during which i concentrate on tensing the whole wrist, to hopefully learn to do that when climbing too. I also try to have my wrists completely tense when climbing in general, but i can‘t tell if this helps me or not.
Thanks for the comment! Hmmm, so first off, I will say I think that your extensors must be tensed some, but perhaps they are not as strong as they need to be? Here's some background. OK, so to even make a fist your wrist extensors activate. That's because of a length tension relationship. Your wrist flexors are actually stronger and better at gripping when the wrist is slightly extended. Think of a Velcro strap. If you lay the two pieces perfectly on top of each other, you get a strong connection. If you go too far or too short and there's little overlap, the connection isn't as strong. So, naturally, the wrist extensors activate to try and get the wrist flexors into their "idea" length-tension overlap position. Try this for example: let your wrist sort of "dangle" in a flexed position. Then make a fist. You'll notice when you make a fist your wrist naturally goes into a slightly extended position. That's due to activation of your wrist extensors.
Now, with all that said. If that's not you... you may have a nerve palsy which you need to get fully evaluated. If you don't have a nerve palsy and the aforementioned does apply to you, your wrist flexors may just be waayyy stronger than your wrist extensors, which causes the imbalance and the injuries you are seeing.
Hope this helps!
I've noticed a very similar problem for myself, my idea is to train in relaxed three finger drag more frequently so my flexors/extensors balance each other out, since I'm always in that natural tense position that comes from fully clasping the fingers and thumb. If you're still around 3 years later, does this sound like a good idea? Has anything in particular helped you along your journey? Did you try a wrist widget? Thank you.
Should we practice these exercises before, after a session or in leisure time ?
Its unfortunate that this requires equipment that most people wouldn't have access to, would be nice to have a similar video but with more common / no equipment needed (if its possible)
In lieu of medicine balls you can always use a soccer, basketball, volley ball, or even an American football for the exercises, at least that's what I use during covid.
Instead of a bosu, I tried using a stability ball with elevated feet, which is not as effective but better than nothing.
You can get very creative with most exercises!
What's the advantage of using medicine balls vs say a basketball + kid's soccer ball? Does the weight of the medicine ball make them significantly more stable?
I have 2 kids, barely have time to ever make it to a climbing gym let alone one with extra equipment for these exercises. Have old man wrist problems tho.
The added weight plus their ability to flatten / deform makes them a bit safer than a basketball or soccer ball.
thx
Do I need to do all of these? Which ones should I work up to?
If you find some of them to be too easy then you don't need to do those. The ones that you find moderately challenging are best, and then as those get easier continue to work your way up. Then long term keep the ones that you can continue to progress with (and that you find to be fun!)
@@HoopersBeta Thanks so much, you're super helpful!
Hello! Just found your channel! It's really nice and it's been helping me a lot. I have one question. I had an injury in my wrist a couple years ago. It does not hurt when climbing, but since I've had it, I could never support my weight in my wrist when in pushup position. It just hurts a lot, it's seems like a shock in my back of the hand, like in the junction between the back of the hand and the forearm. Do you have any tips? I'm stretching a lot my forearm flexors and extensors and I feel like extensors stretching relieves the pain temporarily.
Thanks! Great channel!
Welcome to the channel! Glad that it is helping you already. That's a great question but a slightly hard one to answer without a physical exam as it could be two completely contradictory possibilities. One possible problem (and the more likely one) is the mobility of your wrist joint. Your doing half of it right by stretching the forearm flexors and extensors, but if you have lost some wrist mobility from your initial injury, the wrist may not be moving enough when going into that position of discomfort. This would be a result of the joint space decreasing. As the joint space decreases, it can cause compression of the tissue or just the joint itself, which can produce the pain that you feel. The real problem... it can be the opposite! If you have too much mobility as a result of your injury, then the joint may be unstable which is causing your pain. If that's the case, performing wrist mobilizations won't help, and rather you need to work on strength and stability! Again, hard to say which is the correct answer without a physical exam. A good PT or OT should be able to identify this! If you decide to try wrist mobs, see if it helps with your pain immediately after, and that can be a good indication of what the problem actually is. Sorry there isn't a direct answer but hope this helps
@@HoopersBeta Thanks a lot man! Keep your great work!
@@MrJojoxD hey man! Is there an update? Did you find out anything after visiting a doctor?