I am always so impressed with your videos. When I have a granddaughter and she’s old enough, I’m going to introduce her to your videos to show her a young lady can do anything she sets her mind to. Thank you:)
Fired this little unit up, my first printer and it's just chugging away! Printed the filament holder, thanks so much!! Awesome channel, keep up the great work and content.
Aurora and Helios, what you present to us is a great review of an interesting little printer. You researched very well and your presentation is A1. Pictures and sound are great too. Your Polycarbonate CF print was nice to watch and your pros and cons are spot on. Well done and thank you very much. 28000 subscribers, wow.
I completely agree with J Trauer, best 3D printer review channel. I wish I knew this channel before I made my first 3D printer purchase. However, all my later purchases have been based on reviews here! Thank you for excellent content! 👍
The fact that you perfectly printed a crate out of ABS without an enclosure just shows how knowledgeable you are tinkering the settings. Great job! I’m planning to buy this printer and buying & setting up the following upgrades you recommended to print ASA. However I am going to use an enclosure to hopefully get better results. Thank you.😁
Excellent video review! Your channel always entertains and gives me something new to look at. I really enjoyed your review of the Crux 1. I laughed about your Captain America comment!
Just purchased this machine after watching your video. Video was great. Was wondering if you would consider doing a video about adding maybe like a BL touch to the system. If it’s even possible. Thank you for always putting out a wonderful video every week thank your brother as well.
You pay for the big community and the support with the Prusa. My first printer was chinese (biqu b1) and while there are some fb groups it was a hassle for me fixing it all the time with incomplete instructions to use. I have a Prusa mini now, pretty happy with it. Although this one looks nice too I'm glad I paid extra.
I agree. The Prusa support team helped me with all my dumb questions and that before I laid down any cash. As someone not as much of a tinkerer, knowing that a support time like that is behind a product is huuge.
Good video, as always. PTFE-Tube is not pure PTFE. The normal "limit" temperature is due to the tube deforming; about 278°C is the temperature PTFE decompose to toxic fumes. While you can increase deforming temperature by optimicing the aditives used to make the tube, you can not increase the temperature PTFE decompose. So definitly I would not use 275°C, as is critical near to decomposing temperature. Changing heatbreak as you recommend definitly is the best way. While the Tronxy seem to be a nice entry-level printer, I prefer the Prusas for the open hardware concept for advanced users. Upgrades like LGX and Revo cost more than the basic printer. While I have a lot of different printers at the moment I use mk3s+ most - original and clones. But also the Mini - the best advantage is the number of upgrades you find for Prusa printers. The biggest con for the tronxy is you have to be very advanced to do any upgrades; the biggest pro for the prusas is the very large comunity.
Always watch your reviews as I want to update what’s available on the market. Initially I am thinking to get this for my second traveling printer but after watching your video, I think I will hold. I agree with what you said, I don’t mind paying a little bit more with your suggested upgrades.
This little printer is quite the surprise...despite the various opportunities for improvement, it looks quite good compared to the competition. Although I've told myself that I'd get an Ender 2 Pro or maybe a Monoprice Mini Delta if I wanted to get a tiny printer for portable printing needs, this looks like quite the strong alternative. Great review as always! I definitely liked the suggestions for upgrades, whether Tronxy were to make a Crux 2 or Crux 1 Pro in the future or for those of us who don't mind tinkering.
I am a welder, wire feed welders use a system to feed the welding wire not unlike a 3D printer feeds filament, most wire feed welders have duel drives and an adjustable spring tensioner, the welder tension adjuster has one difference in that it can pivot sideways to release the tension making it easier to change the wire on a welder, and it could be the same on a 3D printer, just my observation. i really enjoy your videos.
I'm a bit confused about the hotend. It claims to be able to print at 275, but near the end of the video you say it's a PTFE lined heatbreak. If it is lined, it is incredibly dangerous to print above 240C, as the PTFE will burn and produce very toxic gasses. Does the PTFE liner really go all the way to the heater block or no?
hola saludos desde Mexico muy buen video, tengo esa impresora disculpa podrías hacer un video de como ajustar las bandas del eje x y eje Y o los ajustes pertinentes para su buen funcionamiento por favor
Aurora you should do a side by side comparison of all available similar machines on the market. Maybe you already have so I will take a look. Thanks for all the hard work of you and your brother in putting these videos together.
Great review as always and I like that you knock them on the head for their laziness to not provide printer profiles. You show that this printer can be upgraded easily to the specs the individual user wants. A comparison with the Kingroon would be nice as would be some bloopers.
This printer definitely reminds me of the kingroon kp3s just with slightly worse hardware but with a better overall design. Like it has a mount for the power supply in the base but no linear rails.
Wtf. Just WTf... How can you have THAT much experience that age?? Impressive. I mean, I started coding in primary school teaching it to my self, but how you handle the printer and even explained what can be improved is next level. And it looks authentic. All the other reviews about that printer I seen before look crappy compared to that. I'm glad you tried out to print Nylon. I'm thinking about buying that printer as a second one. Do you think that Nylon Print was kinda lucky, or can it safely print even bigger parts?
Those glass beds just need a good clean with IPA to take off the adhesive used for the protective sheet and then they print just fine, usually you can print over this protective sheets glue but after a few weeks of heavy printing it will bake to the glass and nothing will stick to it
I have more than 30 glass beds, the coating on this CRUX 1 bed is the thickest. As I tested out a lot of new printers with a glass bed, they only stick too well when brand new, this is the only new bed that didn't stick well enough.
Excellent review. Among my printers is a Prusa mini. I wonder why my Mini looks like a hobby project. This Tronxy looks a lot better. Of course you cannot expect it to be perfect for its price but the mini isn't too for three times the price.
I agree with the price being too high. I have one original Prusa but went with clones after. Half the price and same quality. You should not forget that a Mini comes with the luxury of not needing a piece of paper or springs to level every now and then!
@@JohnsonsUnited One thing clones do not have to do research and development. The Prusa mini is manufactured in the EU and must comply with stricter regulations.
@@TheOfficialDarkICE R&D yes, regulations no. You're essentially paying for the brand and R&D. Which is fine but considering the MINI uses generic Chinese made components like bearings, heat break, thermistors etc. It's hard to justify the price when an almost identical machine to the clone. Actually, I prefer the clone since it's simplified (one tube from extruder into heat break, instead of two separate tubes). It elminates the Mini's design fault.
@@JohnsonsUnited Lol they are not. That's why they are clones. No regulations really? Do you even live in the EU? Do you know that Chinese clone hardware usually doesn't have safety certifications? And you really prefer the clone heatbreak which limits your temperature to about 250-60 degrees celsius? Come on....
@@TheOfficialDarkICE I prefer the clone's design over the original. The temp can easily be raised using a cheap TriangleLab heartbreak. In fact, my Originals run into issues printing CF Nylon at 290c, the tube shrinks in less than 80 hours of printing. My clones do way better on that part. What regulations? I am genuinely curious. Some of their parts are CE certified but they are not made in-house, nothing they have to worry about. Most of the mechanical parts on the MINI are generic brands unlike the mk3s, where bearings etc are actually branded
Obviously I don't know how to use the comment mechanism (my first time commenting) 1. I ordered this printer after viewing your review. You recommended the PEI bed option for $10, which I ordered, and got an order acknowledgement. But then a few hours later, I got a message from Tronxy saying that this was a mistake on their web page, and the PEI bed wouldn't be available in the US for a couple of months (more or less). They gave me some reasonable options, none of which I really wanted, though. So ... not a complaint, but an alert about that if someone is ordering for US delivery in the next month or so. 2. You suggested that a bi-metal heatbreak would have been nice, and you flashed one ... I think an Amazon page for the BIQU E3D V6 Hoten for E3D V6 Volcano Hoten Prusa I3 MK3/MK3S Heat Break 1.75mm Filament (2pcs a Pack). Is that just a "like this one" example, or is this one you think will actually fit and work with the Crux? Again, thanks for your great reviews.
They machine they sent me also came with a glass bed, I bought this PEI textured sheet from amazon: amzn.to/3OH8iJW Yes, the heat break picture in my video is just an example, I can't see any off-the-shelf heat break available for this hotend and hope Tronxy to release one soon.
As someone who has owned more than one Tronxy printer I can tell you that parts will start to go bad on this machine much quicker than they should. Tronxy is the worst 3d printer manufacturer of all the printers I have used. To be fair, it has been a while since I have bought a Tronxy, because I really hate Tronxy, so maybe they have improved some, but I highly suggest people avoid this company unless they are very comfortable doing things like replacing power supplies and motherboards.
And to counter that, I've had an X1 for nearly 5 years and its still working fine. They are cheap yes, but as you've seen in this video you get a lot of value for money. If you are not planning on having your printer in constant use and you want something like a starter printer, this looks ideal.
@@frankhovis This video didnt prove anything other than it printed nice out of the box. Lets see what she has to say when she uses it every day for months on end, that is a real review. I get that you cant really do that as an influencer with every printer, I am not at all knocking her review. It was a mostly solid review, simply pointing out that this video wasnt a long term review, just a first look. I also know that there are the rare Tronxy printers out in the wild that live up to the promises made by the company, but your printer and the rest of the good ones are not the majority, they are the exception. If you want a cheap cantilever printer, I suggest the Kingroon. If for some reason you dont want the Kingroon, then even the Ender 2 will beat this Tronxy in longevity/value.
@@jon9947 All these 3D printer channels suffer from this. “The new Bing Bong X5 is amazing for the price!” Let’s see how it holds up after 6 months. You get what you pay for, and I was skeptical of the hype but made the switch to Prusa after getting tired of constantly modding and tinkering my cheap printers. I’ll never get another cheapo printer after realizing how much time goes into fixing stuff, ordering new parts, calibrating everything again and again. It really comes down to saving time versus money. One way or another you will pay.
To be fair, their pricing reflects that and anyone with any sense buys them as project printers. If you know of a better 400x400 coreXY printer for $300, I would love to know where I can buy it.
Hi Aurora, I always enjoy your videos, but I think I spotted an error in this one. You said there is no belt tensioner on the Y axis. In your video, however, you can clearly see that the motor for the Y axis is mounted in slots. It should be possible to tighten the belt over this.
Yes, it has another timing wheel under the bed that requires loosening 3 screws and moving it away from the belt to increase tension, holding the wheel tight with your hand, and tightening back the screws can increase tension. I prefer a more convenient thumbscrew belt tensioner.
I have one too. I enjoy the printer as a whole but disappointed in the hotend setup. It's a 26mm throat with a 28mm ptfe tube. With all the great stuff on this printer it's like they took a step back with this design. However properly tuned it gives great results.
Just ordered using your coupon code ;) There is another little printer that I am sure many of your viewers would like you to review: the Kingroon KP3S.
What i would like to know, is what wire connectors you used, to mount the filament sensor on the extruder. Don't know what it is called, please tell me.
Priline PC-Cf isn't truly polycarbonate. It is a heavily mixed blend and can print as low temperatures as PETG. It may look really nice, but I wouldn't trust it to have the same strength as other PC Blends
GREAT REVIEW AS EXPECTED - just one thought given that there is a single z axis column have you experienced any issues arising from the additional weight added by the spool mounting position on the top
Will you be making a comparison between this Crux1 and the Kingroon KP3S and it's "pro" version? It seems like a three-way shootout between them for people who want a small printer right now.
Did the Priline PCCF smell weird? I was hesitant to buy it when I saw multiple reviews stating it smelled weird and wasn’t like other PCCF’s they used before.
Just change the starting gcode from: G1 X2 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; move to start-line position G1 X2 Y175.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; draw 1st line G1 X2 Y175.0 Z0.4 F5000.0 ; move to side a little G1 X2 Y20 Z0.4 F1500.0 E30 ; draw 2nd line To: G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; move to start-line position G1 X5 Y175.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; draw 1st line G1 X5 Y175.0 Z0.4 F5000.0 ; move to side a little G1 X5 Y20 Z0.4 F1500.0 E30 ; draw 2nd line Just change all X2 to X5 will move the purge line to the right by 3mm.
The so called "OSG Speed Linear RollerGuide" is something that I'm in too minds about, as to me just looks like steel wheels on chromed rods? Has that been used on any other printer?
I would choose this Crux 1 over the Ender-2 Pro for 3 reasons, Ender-2 Pro is a Bowden set up with an even smaller print bed 165x165, and the maximum temperature of the nozzle and bed is lower(260/80).
Adjusting bed gap should be accomplished with everything at operating temp. These dimensions will be very different when hot. ?? The bottom layers of prints shown do not have the extrusion lines merged with each other. Your gap is too large.
Hi love the video and do watch all your videos. very informative!! The spool mount you created do you mind me sharing it on the Tronxy CRUX 1 facebook group please, I shall mention that you made it and ask people to check out your videos, Thanks from Chris in the UK
Pretty interesting printer, I wouldn’t recommend going over 240*C with a ptfe inside because it releases fumes-regardless what the manufacturer claims. I would like to see how this stacks up against the Kingroon KP3S and Ender 2 Pro
I was going to say the same thing. Also the ptfe will burn and cause clogs over time if you print over 240c. So the new heat break is a great upgrade. Nice looking printer at a good price. Looks like a winner and a easy one to upgrade.
hi guys new subscriber here. I think you should seriously try to tap into the drone FPV enthusiast such as myself. the hobby is exploding with new comers and currently the 3D printer parts are expensive/ massive shipping fees for overseas. I think it would be simple for you to get the attention of the FPV people by talking about TPU/flexible filaments. Personally I am trying to find a small direct drive 3D printer such as the one in this video but I did not see you test any TPU.
no no no no no... you have to change the end G code too. The KP3S Cura profile is bugged. At the end of the print the bed bangs two times more then into end because Y is 200 and 300. delete one line and the outher change to 160
@@AuroraTech I am a noob but can read gcodes. This is the endcode : "G91; relative positioning G1 Z1.0 F3000 ; move z up little to prevent scratching of print G90; absolute positioning G1 X0 Y200 F1000 ; prepare for part removal M104 S0; turn off extruder M140 S0 ; turn off bed G1 X0 Y300 F1000 ; prepare for part removal M84 ; disable motors M106 S0 ; turn off fan" 2 times he bangs into hardware Y200 and Y300 but the bed is only 180. So there is a problem ! This is the original 5.0 Cura Gcode... it is only changed if it was changed in another version. Mine was also correct. I first had to delete the profile and set it again, because it had already taken over my correct changes from 4.13. even if crux overwrites the endcode (which i don't think it will), people should be made aware of the error. Who knows what a firmware update will change.
The Crux1 has soft limit enabled, so it won't be an issue. If your printer has not enabled that, you can send gcode M211 S1. After that, even if you manually send gcode and try to move to Y200 or Y2000, the printer won't move more than Y180 (or the bed size limit).
@@AuroraTech the only issue I had with cura 5.0 is the pre extrusion line crashes into the glass bed clips , I caught this early and moved the left clips to the front and rear . Thanks for a great review as always
This was a good review, but is missed the mark for me on a couple of things. Firstly, it didn’t really compare the tronxy against the Prusa so I was unclear on what it was as good-as on or worse than. Secondly, I didn’t like the con of “no print profile in cura” that was a bit “clutching at straws” since no new printers will have cura profiles and so it really didn’t need saying. Otherwise a good review of the printer in its own right.
It only costs a 3d printer manufacturer a small amount of time and effort to create a proper Cura (and other slicers) printer profile: to not do it is very cheap. I bought a couple of cheap LotMaxx printers last year, their cheapest model with no automatic bed leveling, and their dual extruder/single hotend one: they both had Cura profiles from the start. I was amused to observe that this 3D printer had a notably easier final assembly process than my LotMaxx printers has, more easily done without the odd contortions I had to do because of the design.
The best 3d printer review channel, period.
facts
Period.
Literally came to say the same. So Good
I agreee 100%, i am really supprised they don't have more subs come on people share and subscribe
Ya, this kid blows my mind every time I watch her. She's a true pro, and so young.
I am always so impressed with your videos. When I have a granddaughter and she’s old enough, I’m going to introduce her to your videos to show her a young lady can do anything she sets her mind to. Thank you:)
Fired this little unit up, my first printer and it's just chugging away! Printed the filament holder, thanks so much!! Awesome channel, keep up the great work and content.
Aurora and Helios, what you present to us is a great review of an interesting little printer. You researched very well and your presentation is A1. Pictures and sound are great too. Your Polycarbonate CF print was nice to watch and your pros and cons are spot on. Well done and thank you very much. 28000 subscribers, wow.
It is the most detailed and useful review I have ever seen about the printer.
Thank you so much!
I love how you explain to us how change to use other models to make this work ..thank you great job
I completely agree with J Trauer, best 3D printer review channel. I wish I knew this channel before I made my first 3D printer purchase. However, all my later purchases have been based on reviews here! Thank you for excellent content! 👍
The fact that you perfectly printed a crate out of ABS without an enclosure just shows how knowledgeable you are tinkering the settings. Great job!
I’m planning to buy this printer and buying & setting up the following upgrades you recommended to print ASA. However I am going to use an enclosure to hopefully get better results. Thank you.😁
Excellent video review! Your channel always entertains and gives me something new to look at. I really enjoyed your review of the Crux 1. I laughed about your Captain America comment!
Favourite tech channel. Only review for this printer I can find! Seems like a good option for my high school students
One of the best 3d printing youtubers. Keep up the great work!
Another banger for Team Lung! Fantastic!
Great presentation; clean and crisp. Two items:
I got it last week. Very easy to setup and it works very nice. Highly recommended for beginners. Recommend version with PEI plate.
Just purchased this machine after watching your video. Video was great. Was wondering if you would consider doing a video about adding maybe like a BL touch to the system. If it’s even possible. Thank you for always putting out a wonderful video every week thank your brother as well.
You pay for the big community and the support with the Prusa. My first printer was chinese (biqu b1) and while there are some fb groups it was a hassle for me fixing it all the time with incomplete instructions to use. I have a Prusa mini now, pretty happy with it. Although this one looks nice too I'm glad I paid extra.
I agree. The Prusa support team helped me with all my dumb questions and that before I laid down any cash.
As someone not as much of a tinkerer, knowing that a support time like that is behind a product is huuge.
Good video, as always.
PTFE-Tube is not pure PTFE. The normal "limit" temperature is due to the tube deforming; about 278°C is the temperature PTFE decompose to toxic fumes. While you can increase deforming temperature by optimicing the aditives used to make the tube, you can not increase the temperature PTFE decompose. So definitly I would not use 275°C, as is critical near to decomposing temperature. Changing heatbreak as you recommend definitly is the best way.
While the Tronxy seem to be a nice entry-level printer, I prefer the Prusas for the open hardware concept for advanced users. Upgrades like LGX and Revo cost more than the basic printer. While I have a lot of different printers at the moment I use mk3s+ most - original and clones. But also the Mini - the best advantage is the number of upgrades you find for Prusa printers. The biggest con for the tronxy is you have to be very advanced to do any upgrades; the biggest pro for the prusas is the very large comunity.
ive been making several mods for the tronxy crux 1 over on printables if you want to check out some of those
So backing off the extruder seems to help thank you
Have you considered making a video on a crux1 vs k3ps ?
Always watch your reviews as I want to update what’s available on the market. Initially I am thinking to get this for my second traveling printer but after watching your video, I think I will hold. I agree with what you said, I don’t mind paying a little bit more with your suggested upgrades.
I printed a wheel holder for the filament but is there something I have to do to be able to print
This prints WAAAAY better than my brand new KP3S Pro S1 :O
Reallly? 😮
@@omegadeepblue1407 like 100 000%
Can you do a short video on the upgrades you did?
btw it does actually have tensioners on both x and y axis, its just not a knob for the y!
My five year old loves your presentation. He says we definitely need a 3D printer!
This little printer is quite the surprise...despite the various opportunities for improvement, it looks quite good compared to the competition. Although I've told myself that I'd get an Ender 2 Pro or maybe a Monoprice Mini Delta if I wanted to get a tiny printer for portable printing needs, this looks like quite the strong alternative.
Great review as always! I definitely liked the suggestions for upgrades, whether Tronxy were to make a Crux 2 or Crux 1 Pro in the future or for those of us who don't mind tinkering.
impressive that this little printer has direct drive.
I am a welder, wire feed welders use a system to feed the welding wire not unlike a 3D printer feeds filament, most wire feed welders have duel drives and an adjustable spring tensioner, the welder tension adjuster has one difference in that it can pivot sideways to release the tension making it easier to change the wire on a welder, and it could be the same on a 3D printer, just my observation. i really enjoy your videos.
I'm a bit confused about the hotend. It claims to be able to print at 275, but near the end of the video you say it's a PTFE lined heatbreak. If it is lined, it is incredibly dangerous to print above 240C, as the PTFE will burn and produce very toxic gasses. Does the PTFE liner really go all the way to the heater block or no?
Great video as always 👍
Good points for upgrading the printer
Thanks for sharing your expirence with all of us:-)
hola saludos desde Mexico muy buen video, tengo esa impresora disculpa podrías hacer un video de como ajustar las bandas del eje x y eje Y o los ajustes pertinentes para su buen funcionamiento por favor
Aurora you should do a side by side comparison of all available similar machines on the market. Maybe you already have so I will take a look. Thanks for all the hard work of you and your brother in putting these videos together.
"Drying 6hrs nylon to print a 30mins nut" - I feel attacked 😅
Did you test the thermal runaway protection for this model?
You can tension the y axis, the motor mount are slotted
Nice printer for the price and excellent video as always 👍
these kinds of minis are perfect as a secondary backup
Great review as always and I like that you knock them on the head for their laziness to not provide printer profiles. You show that this printer can be upgraded easily to the specs the individual user wants. A comparison with the Kingroon would be nice as would be some bloopers.
Really enjoy your channel. Great job.
Simple and to the point
Спасибо за обзор . Посмотрев это видео принял окончательное решение и приобрёл . Отличный бюджетник. Сейчас перевожу его на клиппер.
This printer definitely reminds me of the kingroon kp3s just with slightly worse hardware but with a better overall design. Like it has a mount for the power supply in the base but no linear rails.
Given the choice I'd choose my kp3s over this but it's a good performer for this cheap.
Fantastic Review, keep up the great work! :D
As always thanks for this awesome video 👍🏼
Where did you get the silicone cylinders! Great videos btw
Here you are:
amzn.to/3HMsZ5m
Wtf. Just WTf... How can you have THAT much experience that age?? Impressive. I mean, I started coding in primary school teaching it to my self, but how you handle the printer and even explained what can be improved is next level. And it looks authentic. All the other reviews about that printer I seen before look crappy compared to that.
I'm glad you tried out to print Nylon. I'm thinking about buying that printer as a second one. Do you think that Nylon Print was kinda lucky, or can it safely print even bigger parts?
I'd assume there's a parent or two behind the channel....but that doesn't take anything away from great reviews and presentations.
She’s actually 62yo
there is an older brother behind camera. ;)
Nice review, is thermal runaway enabled in the firmware out of the box?
Great reviews, I would love it if you could do a review on the RatRig V-Minion 3D Printer 😊
Yeah, honestly, if you're on a budget I think the Kingroon K3PS instead.
Can you provide print files for things you print out that would be awesome
Those glass beds just need a good clean with IPA to take off the adhesive used for the protective sheet and then they print just fine, usually you can print over this protective sheets glue but after a few weeks of heavy printing it will bake to the glass and nothing will stick to it
I have more than 30 glass beds, the coating on this CRUX 1 bed is the thickest. As I tested out a lot of new printers with a glass bed, they only stick too well when brand new, this is the only new bed that didn't stick well enough.
Excellent review. Among my printers is a Prusa mini. I wonder why my Mini looks like a hobby project. This Tronxy looks a lot better. Of course you cannot expect it to be perfect for its price but the mini isn't too for three times the price.
I agree with the price being too high. I have one original Prusa but went with clones after. Half the price and same quality. You should not forget that a Mini comes with the luxury of not needing a piece of paper or springs to level every now and then!
@@JohnsonsUnited One thing clones do not have to do research and development. The Prusa mini is manufactured in the EU and must comply with stricter regulations.
@@TheOfficialDarkICE R&D yes, regulations no. You're essentially paying for the brand and R&D. Which is fine but considering the MINI uses generic Chinese made components like bearings, heat break, thermistors etc. It's hard to justify the price when an almost identical machine to the clone. Actually, I prefer the clone since it's simplified (one tube from extruder into heat break, instead of two separate tubes). It elminates the Mini's design fault.
@@JohnsonsUnited Lol they are not. That's why they are clones. No regulations really? Do you even live in the EU? Do you know that Chinese clone hardware usually doesn't have safety certifications? And you really prefer the clone heatbreak which limits your temperature to about 250-60 degrees celsius? Come on....
@@TheOfficialDarkICE I prefer the clone's design over the original. The temp can easily be raised using a cheap TriangleLab heartbreak. In fact, my Originals run into issues printing CF Nylon at 290c, the tube shrinks in less than 80 hours of printing. My clones do way better on that part.
What regulations? I am genuinely curious. Some of their parts are CE certified but they are not made in-house, nothing they have to worry about. Most of the mechanical parts on the MINI are generic brands unlike the mk3s, where bearings etc are actually branded
Obviously I don't know how to use the comment mechanism (my first time commenting)
1. I ordered this printer after viewing your review. You recommended the PEI bed option for $10, which I ordered, and got an order acknowledgement. But then a few hours later, I got a message from Tronxy saying that this was a mistake on their web page, and the PEI bed wouldn't be available in the US for a couple of months (more or less). They gave me some reasonable options, none of which I really wanted, though. So ... not a complaint, but an alert about that if someone is ordering for US delivery in the next month or so.
2. You suggested that a bi-metal heatbreak would have been nice, and you flashed one ... I think an Amazon page for the BIQU E3D V6 Hoten for E3D V6 Volcano Hoten Prusa I3 MK3/MK3S Heat Break 1.75mm Filament (2pcs a Pack). Is that just a "like this one" example, or is this one you think will actually fit and work with the Crux?
Again, thanks for your great reviews.
They machine they sent me also came with a glass bed, I bought this PEI textured sheet from amazon:
amzn.to/3OH8iJW
Yes, the heat break picture in my video is just an example, I can't see any off-the-shelf heat break available for this hotend and hope Tronxy to release one soon.
Hi, hey! where can i find the silicone cilinders , tyvm for the video!
Thank you for video! 2024, looking to buy this one, now.
Im definitely buying this
Hello again, What are the orange things in place of the yellow springs under the bed and what do they do?
As someone who has owned more than one Tronxy printer I can tell you that parts will start to go bad on this machine much quicker than they should. Tronxy is the worst 3d printer manufacturer of all the printers I have used.
To be fair, it has been a while since I have bought a Tronxy, because I really hate Tronxy, so maybe they have improved some, but I highly suggest people avoid this company unless they are very comfortable doing things like replacing power supplies and motherboards.
And to counter that, I've had an X1 for nearly 5 years and its still working fine. They are cheap yes, but as you've seen in this video you get a lot of value for money. If you are not planning on having your printer in constant use and you want something like a starter printer, this looks ideal.
@@frankhovis This video didnt prove anything other than it printed nice out of the box. Lets see what she has to say when she uses it every day for months on end, that is a real review.
I get that you cant really do that as an influencer with every printer, I am not at all knocking her review. It was a mostly solid review, simply pointing out that this video wasnt a long term review, just a first look.
I also know that there are the rare Tronxy printers out in the wild that live up to the promises made by the company, but your printer and the rest of the good ones are not the majority, they are the exception.
If you want a cheap cantilever printer, I suggest the Kingroon. If for some reason you dont want the Kingroon, then even the Ender 2 will beat this Tronxy in longevity/value.
@@jon9947 All these 3D printer channels suffer from this. “The new Bing Bong X5 is amazing for the price!” Let’s see how it holds up after 6 months. You get what you pay for, and I was skeptical of the hype but made the switch to Prusa after getting tired of constantly modding and tinkering my cheap printers. I’ll never get another cheapo printer after realizing how much time goes into fixing stuff, ordering new parts, calibrating everything again and again. It really comes down to saving time versus money. One way or another you will pay.
To be fair, their pricing reflects that and anyone with any sense buys them as project printers. If you know of a better 400x400 coreXY printer for $300, I would love to know where I can buy it.
Do you have any links to the test prints you made here? Great video btw.
Do a kp3s review plz ❤️🙏
Hi Aurora, I always enjoy your videos, but I think I spotted an error in this one. You said there is no belt tensioner on the Y axis. In your video, however, you can clearly see that the motor for the Y axis is mounted in slots. It should be possible to tighten the belt over this.
Yes, it has another timing wheel under the bed that requires loosening 3 screws and moving it away from the belt to increase tension, holding the wheel tight with your hand, and tightening back the screws can increase tension. I prefer a more convenient thumbscrew belt tensioner.
@@AuroraTech it is
Since you had tested both: which one would you recommend: This printer, or one of the Kingroon KP3S variants?
@auroratech Any recommendations on a replacement nozzle for the Tronxy Crux 1?
Would you be able to supply us with your Cura profile for the Crux 1? Have you made any other changes to it since the video was made back in June?
I have one too. I enjoy the printer as a whole but disappointed in the hotend setup. It's a 26mm throat with a 28mm ptfe tube. With all the great stuff on this printer it's like they took a step back with this design. However properly tuned it gives great results.
Do you think the hot end will be able to be upgraded?
@@nathankean7968 t think it should be easy.
@@jeffdeneault3031 hope so
Hi how do you make the filament feeder
Were you able to print with TPU? Could not find that setting in the video? TY
Just ordered using your coupon code ;)
There is another little printer that I am sure many of your viewers would like you to review: the Kingroon KP3S.
I am going to review their updated version KP3S Pro soon. Since I don’t really like the detached power supply of the KP3S.
it can print nylon, so the hot end is all metal? thankyouu!
Thanks Aurora and brother! Very interesting video.
If you find a minute I’d appreciate a word explaining why the vase mode trash can printed faster.
For vase mode, you only print the bottom and 1-layer thin wall with single extrusion.
@@AuroraTech is the STL for that free or paid?
Here you are:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4725064
What i would like to know, is what wire connectors you used, to mount the filament sensor on the extruder.
Don't know what it is called, please tell me.
would like to see a shootout between this and a kp3s
Priline PC-Cf isn't truly polycarbonate. It is a heavily mixed blend and can print as low temperatures as PETG. It may look really nice, but I wouldn't trust it to have the same strength as other PC Blends
Hello Auora, between this printer [crux1] and Kingroon KPS3...which one do you recommend?
GREAT REVIEW AS EXPECTED - just one thought given that there is a single z axis column have you experienced any issues arising from the additional weight added by the spool mounting position on the top
Aurora, As a mod…you think one can remove that screen and mount it outside the printer? That angle (laying flat back) really annoys me.
Will you be making a comparison between this Crux1 and the Kingroon KP3S and it's "pro" version? It seems like a three-way shootout between them for people who want a small printer right now.
Did the Priline PCCF smell weird? I was hesitant to buy it when I saw multiple reviews stating it smelled weird and wasn’t like other PCCF’s they used before.
Is it possible to run the printer without the filament run out sensor?
Yes, you can disable it on the screen menu.
Great video (again) and the reason why I LOVE you and your channel..
(brains and Beauty 😎) @Aurora
agreed and how is it that they only have 24 k subscribers.
Did you have the problem where the purge line purges off the plate?
Just change the starting gcode from:
G1 X2 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; move to start-line position
G1 X2 Y175.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; draw 1st line
G1 X2 Y175.0 Z0.4 F5000.0 ; move to side a little
G1 X2 Y20 Z0.4 F1500.0 E30 ; draw 2nd line
To:
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; move to start-line position
G1 X5 Y175.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; draw 1st line
G1 X5 Y175.0 Z0.4 F5000.0 ; move to side a little
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.4 F1500.0 E30 ; draw 2nd line
Just change all X2 to X5 will move the purge line to the right by 3mm.
@@AuroraTech thanks
The so called "OSG Speed Linear RollerGuide" is something that I'm in too minds about, as to me just looks like steel wheels on chromed rods? Has that been used on any other printer?
Many Tronxy models. Had an x5sa pro and after a year of printing no wear.
A year later and it looks like TronXY got it right.
Hey, how about using prusa slicer for this guy? Same? Ender 3 profile w/ direct drive? Or..? ( I just prefer that to cura)
How does this printer do when printing ABS with an enclosure? I am looking for a smaller printer to print ABS that I can put out in my garage.
How does it compare to the Ender 2 pro? I'm looking into purchasing a smaller printer?
I would choose this Crux 1 over the Ender-2 Pro for 3 reasons, Ender-2 Pro is a Bowden set up with an even smaller print bed 165x165, and the maximum temperature of the nozzle and bed is lower(260/80).
@@AuroraTech Thank you
Superb.
Adjusting bed gap should be accomplished with everything at operating temp. These dimensions will be very different when hot. ?? The bottom layers of prints shown do not have the extrusion lines merged with each other. Your gap is too large.
Which is better the kingroon or the tronxy
I'm very confused any one can answer me for advice🤔
Hi love the video and do watch all your videos. very informative!! The spool mount you created do you mind me sharing it on the Tronxy CRUX 1 facebook group please, I shall mention that you made it and ask people to check out your videos, Thanks from Chris in the UK
Sure, please share it freely. Thanks
Pretty interesting printer, I wouldn’t recommend going over 240*C with a ptfe inside because it releases fumes-regardless what the manufacturer claims.
I would like to see how this stacks up against the Kingroon KP3S and Ender 2 Pro
I was going to say the same thing. Also the ptfe will burn and cause clogs over time if you print over 240c. So the new heat break is a great upgrade. Nice looking printer at a good price. Looks like a winner and a easy one to upgrade.
Tronxy Crux vs kingroon kp3s pro s1?
I would pick Kingroon KP3S Pro (S1 / V2):
ruclips.net/video/Z7df1SvAfgk/видео.html
@@AuroraTech Thank you just ordered for $189 version of S1
@@AuroraTech Given that the KPS Pro bed only heats to 85C and other issues in your video, I don't see why you would recommend it over the Crux.
Anyone figured out how to disable the beeping on this printer?
hi guys new subscriber here. I think you should seriously try to tap into the drone FPV enthusiast such as myself. the hobby is exploding with new comers and currently the 3D printer parts are expensive/ massive shipping fees for overseas. I think it would be simple for you to get the attention of the FPV people by talking about TPU/flexible filaments. Personally I am trying to find a small direct drive 3D printer such as the one in this video but I did not see you test any TPU.
no no no no no... you have to change the end G code too. The KP3S Cura profile is bugged.
At the end of the print the bed bangs two times more then into end because Y is 200 and 300. delete one line and the outher change to 160
The KP3S printer profile and ending GCODE in Cura 5.0 has no issue with this Crux 1.
@@AuroraTech I am a noob but can read gcodes.
This is the endcode :
"G91; relative positioning
G1 Z1.0 F3000 ; move z up little to prevent scratching of print
G90; absolute positioning
G1 X0 Y200 F1000 ; prepare for part removal
M104 S0; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
G1 X0 Y300 F1000 ; prepare for part removal
M84 ; disable motors
M106 S0 ; turn off fan"
2 times he bangs into hardware
Y200 and Y300 but the bed is only 180.
So there is a problem !
This is the original 5.0 Cura Gcode... it is only changed if it was changed in another version. Mine was also correct. I first had to delete the profile and set it again, because it had already taken over my correct changes from 4.13.
even if crux overwrites the endcode (which i don't think it will), people should be made aware of the error. Who knows what a firmware update will change.
The Crux1 has soft limit enabled, so it won't be an issue. If your printer has not enabled that, you can send gcode M211 S1. After that, even if you manually send gcode and try to move to Y200 or Y2000, the printer won't move more than Y180 (or the bed size limit).
@@AuroraTech the only issue I had with cura 5.0 is the pre extrusion line crashes into the glass bed clips , I caught this early and moved the left clips to the front and rear . Thanks for a great review as always
I prefer Prusa Mini.
This was a good review, but is missed the mark for me on a couple of things. Firstly, it didn’t really compare the tronxy against the Prusa so I was unclear on what it was as good-as on or worse than. Secondly, I didn’t like the con of “no print profile in cura” that was a bit “clutching at straws” since no new printers will have cura profiles and so it really didn’t need saying. Otherwise a good review of the printer in its own right.
@Suicide Kyd heavily biased opinion since you have stated more than once you think Prusa’s are overpriced
It only costs a 3d printer manufacturer a small amount of time and effort to create a proper Cura (and other slicers) printer profile: to not do it is very cheap.
I bought a couple of cheap LotMaxx printers last year, their cheapest model with no automatic bed leveling, and their dual extruder/single hotend one: they both had Cura profiles from the start.
I was amused to observe that this 3D printer had a notably easier final assembly process than my LotMaxx printers has, more easily done without the odd contortions I had to do because of the design.
🔥
RIP Cap. 😢