GSX Restoration Part 2
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- The thumbnail is just in case anyone has a question which car this video is about...
I'm making preparations for 2 different things here. 1) Reassembly preparations for one group of parts going to powder coating, and 2) chassis preparations for a body that's going off to paint. I demonstrate multiple techniques I use to ensure I can put factory parts back together properly again once they're reunited... in much greater detail than with the Galant, and what's a Jafromobile video without another expensive unboxing? You can stockpile parts all you want in advance. It's still going to cost you more parts once you start taking it apart. Another example that you are never done ordering parts.
We're wrapping up the same level of deconstruction that's already been done to the Galant, but I've done it in only two videos instead of 3. You saw the baseline and now it's completely blown apart. These two series of videos highlight the contrast between "first generation" and "second generation" DSM suspensions and driveline parts. Two things that are the same, but that are still very different.
We'll pick back up on this one again once parts return from powder coating. ...and if the Galant was any indicator, that won't be very long at all. The tubular subframe replacement has made Justin's job a whole lot easier this time around.
Two parallel restorations are a handful, but I enjoy filming my progress and sharing it with you here. Ad revenue only pays a fraction of what my videos cost to make. Patreon funds everything you see except the rent, and I love doing this work. The best way to impact what everyone sees here is to visit / jafromobile . Video sponsors get access to extra content that you can't on RUclips, your name in the credits and 24 hour early-bird access ad-free to new uploads. Turn on Patreon notifications for that benefit. Everything contributed there goes right back into my production. Please like and subscribe, but thank my Patreon followers if you like what you see here.
clicked out the hub for this
this works better than the hub for me.
Fellow petrolsexuals ❤
😂😂😂
well worth it huh
Oh the joy of stock piling parts, pre-planning pre-pandemic was the hedge ever. Gosh what an experience. I'm enjoying every minute of your effort for these cars ... You have my undivided attention!!
Some might argue there's a lot more worthwhile things I could be stockpiling. Sure, do that, too... but ultimately if we want to have anything cool, this is how you have to do it. You have to plan to keep it. You have to start building 2 engines for it before the first one's even finished.
I share in your enthusiasm brother... This is truly a joy to behold!
@@Jafromobile how could we have a chat ? hope to sponsor your channel with our parts ! thanks
One of my favourite parts about your videos is that all of these lessons can apply to any car you're working on. I think I've been watching your videos for close to 8 or 9 years now and I've never once worked on a Mitsubishi, but the techniques and patience you've taught us has helped me with countless projects and my own work.
Thank you for making these videos Jafro, we all appreciate you
It's all work-in -> results out.
Work is a gift! And it helps when you enjoy seeing the results!
Thank YOU Ravika!
I miss my 98 GSX. Such pretty cars
I'm just getting into restoring a 20 year old car that has spent it's lif being driven hard on salted roads, the bodywork bill will be painful, but restoring a 2004 Subaru Legacy 3.0R wagon with a 6 speed will be worth it. Even now in it's rough state it never fails to put a smile on my face, but will be torn apart to get the body and subframes fixed over winter.
This channel is a huge inspiration and has also taught me a lot what to look out for and what to try and avoid.
My example proves it can be difficult even when they haven't lived that life, but start really early with the penetrating oil, treat it daily for a few weeks until the metal is very saturated. For the non-mechanical side of this job, be prepared to replace everything you take apart whether the parts are available or not. That will clear all fears out of your mental space and you'll be ready for anything you encounter. Every time a thing goes right, it's a victory that saved you money. Something to feel good about. If everything goes wrong and you have to replace everything, and you already knew what you can get fast versus used, then you'll meet your expectations without any discouragement whatsoever and your car will still be fixed. Eventually. If I can fix a 31 year old thing that only 3,000 ever showed up here, you can definitely handle that!
@@Jafromobile From what I know already, all of the quarterpanels and doors need to be replaced as they are simply too deteriorated to be replaced, or the cost difference is negligible. I'm fortunate in having picked a car where all spare parts are readily available and for relatively reasonable prices. Still prepared for some surprises underneath the car, but as long as all the strut towers and subframe mounting points are present or salvageable, then the rest is just a question of when, not if. I will not be rushing through this project because reaching the goal is more important than trying to get there fast.
I'm a simple man. Jafro uploads, I watch.
Man I miss being a patreon
It's never supposed to be a sacrifice for anyone to watch me work. This entire thing is built on gratitude. I'm grateful for everyone who watches.
Jafro, we know you clean as a form of therapy.... If you don't clean something in a Jafromobile episode, then we know something is wrong.
Edit: Don't forget your subframe plate
I just found it, and cleaned it.
Hey Jafro, for removing stubborn broken bolts, I can't recommend enough using left handed drill bits. At worst they are the same as using a right handed drill, and at best they become the extractor we were always promised. Love all the progress, the paint hasn't even dried on your last video!
I always use a MIG welder. It does two things, heat the bolt and add material to grab.
@@zsolthajdu5007 Hell, even a HF flux core works. Did two sets of LS heads in no time.
Turns out... what I really need... is left hand tungsten-carbide drill bits. My tool budget is about to explode!
Based on my experience I have to agree. I have several bolt removal kits and none have worked that well. I've always had to drill out the broken bolt shaft and rethread, as the removal bits either broke or just refused to get the shaft to budge.
Then I got a cheap LH drill bit set at HF, and it just worked. I mean RH drill bits worked too, but for some reason much slower. The LH ones made relatively short work of it. I just had to keep stepping up the bit size, apply a lot of cutting oil and back off and clean out the shaved metal.
They still usually don't actually remove the broken shaft, but they cut into them much better. Maybe they're just better quality than comparably priced RH bits. I've yet to break even one.
Gotta say, both your GSX as well as the Galant are in remarkable condition for their age. I've worked on some considerably newer Mitsubishi that had rust like you wouldn't believe it, like the first gen Outlander, a 2004 Model, that I had for a few years. I had to replace both, the front and rear Subframe on that thing because the factory ones had completely rusted from the inside out and where so weak that the front subframe even broke on mine while I was driving it. I believe there was even a Recal due to this on that generation of Outlander and Lancer in the US because it was so bad that the Subframes sometimes rusted through before the cars where even 10 years old.
Holy cow! That's horrible! I've seen some terrifying things on new trucks. But like you said, back in 2003 I bought a 1990 AWD Plymouth Laser RS sight unseen online for $1,300. Shiny, metallic pink, loaded. Every single nut and bolt snapped taking the driveline out. You only needed one wrench to take it apart. A cutoff wheel wrench. You could stick your finger straight through the entire lower half of the body with light pressure. It was like the whole body was made of graham crackers. The body degraded before the paint did. I've never seen anything like it. It was 13 years old, and completely unsalvageable, but it ran long enough to get it home before the ECU fried itself and it became the Colt donor. I saved everything from that car that could be used, but holy cow people who have winters... wash your cars. Maybe that car was a salt water flood victim?
Wow, that shell is unreal for it's age. A total gem, I'm please it ended up in your hands Jafro, it couldn't have found a better home.
I know both of their VIN numbers. They are me. We are Borg.
It always get me when I hear"Rust free" from some people living near snowy/rainy zones. Living on the seaside even, it's hard to me don't smile and think "surface rust"? The only similar rust I've seen on my own cars were on 30 year old pre-1980 build in parts where metal were exprosed to elements... but even after 15 years of raw metal you'll clean surface rust without bothering to even coating, repairing or cutiing metal...It'll root all the ruber and plastic and paint coat before having any issue. I own a 01' car that has seen some rain, gravel and snow and little salt roads (mint condition for Rust belt or north Europe...) and the face mechanics show when find a rusted bolt or surface... they'll recommend going to junkyard or we worried to break parts if rust penetrant doesn't work and ahve to use other methods...struggling minuts or hours with one bolt its like a good reason for them to ask you not to repair your car anymore...10 times better, than YT videos or reality TV shows on restoring cars... you'll have hard to find rusted cars on the junkyard also... if any they'll go to be crushed and melted somewhere else... but I think how rotten same era cars on northern countries are even being newer...that I won't drive them even for a short test drive, ahahaha
@@InternetListener What I found is when you grind the surface rust off an unpainted Mitsubishi part, it comes back 5x faster afterwards. The impure outer layer of the part seems much more rust resistant than what's just underneath. Their paint is spectacular wherever it sticks, I'm really lucky at how much work I don't have to do after 30 years. There's a lot of reasons why going to a mechanic is expensive, and one of them is because of the one bolt they've encountered on just about every job that takes hours to get around. It happens to all of us! :P
Love it when a new lessom with Professor Jafro comes out!! I learn so much
Jafro, my brother made me start doing this many years ago... The very second an easy-out does its job perfectly and gets your stuck broken bolt out, you grab the drill bit that helped it along the way and prepare and immediately conduct a proper funeral for both. They served their purpose and did their job, their life is now over and we loved them while they were here with us. Don't use old easy-outs, they get ruined during the process. That is our religion at least...
The amount of space you now have has made the whole decade! The amount of content we are about to see is mind-blowing! I'm so happy for you! :)
It certainly has changed my capabilities! I've been fighting to get an indoor space with a lift to do all this for a decade, you recall! If the retail economy keeps going the way it's going, I might be able to buy a whole shopping center and fill the buildings with cars soon? All I need is the winning lottery numbers and this channel will go nuts!
Man things are going so swiftly and more better,... and complete. Again so much attention to detail and pre-planning. This GSX restoration is going to be outta dis world. Off the hook.
Two cars blown completely apart! Two months, two cars. We're going to have a lot of fun here!
@@Jafromobile No more blue Monday, and hopefully no more crank walks. Cannot hardly wait. Body work, alignments, dynamic and some sweet, sweet road testing.
Ahhhh gotta catch up on my watch-later playlist
You join me just in time to share the commute home from work. Buckle in, and get comfortable! Very happy to see a new upload 😊
I hope you made it home safely! lol
Another great 👍 video. We would love to see EVO Brembo’s on the GSX 👍
Absolutely love these videos!
As for broken bolt and bushing shell removal: I like using a welder. On broken bolts weld a nut to it and for bushing shells just put a full circle MIG bead in it and you can knock them out in one go.
I've had mixed results with a stick welder doing that on drum brakes. You have a whole lot less heat control with a stick welder, though. It takes a lot of practice to do it with a stick welder and I suck at it.
Jafro I have been a Subscriber for well over a decade now and you have got to be one of the best story tellers in the automotive genre here on RUclips.
I even have to admit that your videos have influenced my own content delivery on RUclips.
Well done Jafro! Always looking forward to your content. Making me want to build another Talon but i have got to get this house built first. Oh and the AWD Civic needs to get done. So maybe one day if i can find a Talon or Eclipse.
I love to work. I take a month of work on video, I accelerate it to the speed of what everyone wants to watch videos at now because nobody has time for reality. The video writes the script. I leave out what most of my viewers already know and include what's unique to my experience doing that work. I've gotten good enough to film, import, edit, and script one hour of video by the time I go to sleep. That hour of work and editing often creates less than 30 seconds in of one of these videos so that's pretty easy to script.
Brother, get your whip and lock in! Buy everything you can get for it now! There will still be houses later! :P
I would like to just acknowledge how accurate this comment is. You’re one of the greatest story tellers on all of RUclips and it’s simply amazing.
I have a talon that I chip away at slowly. Your videos always get me up and back working on it. Thank you so much, Jafro. 🫡 Keep on doing what you’re doing.
@@Jafromobile I hear ya brotha, I have to have something to do.
With no garage at the moment and the summer heat coming I am feverously working to get solar and AC up in my 2 40' containers on my property. This way I can hopefully move my 43' RV out there. Then bring all 7 vehicles out there and continue the AWD Civic and maybe that Talon if one pops up.
Still need water well and septic installed but that's another discussion and video in the future.
At any rate I have power for my TIG & MIG welders but AC is absolutely required past June.
Nice work on saving parts & progress as well.
Be safe.
Just watching gives me so much anxiety! Your a better man!
Love the progress and attention to detail. You always give your Mitsubishi’s and Hyundai’s the love they deserve. The bolt snapping I can relate to, my lord I flame broiled several bits, easy outs you name it having to drill out a stud in my factory O2 housing on my Turbo….it was an absolute pain in the ass to drill it out. But, as you said drilling it slowly keeping the bit cooled down as much as possible really helps. I used a drill press I just recently purchased to drill out my O2 housing. But started it with a drill and several bits that have now been turned into spoons. Can’t wait to see what else is in store for the 2G abs GVR4! Can’t wait for the next installment.
I see new video, I watch new video, I like new video. Love the content.
11 years without a gas tank shield on my car...donor car was a rot box, no issues had in over 60k miles. Some people argued otherwise but I ventured on.
I mean... what's going to happen? You remove the square metal box that's mounted below and around a curved polymer tank? Is it there for airflow? lol. Will the plastic tank rust faster? Mitsubishi _DID_ make the gas tank after all... But I'll take my chances.
However many years into watching everything you do and loving it. I've got my 2nd correction for you my man. Annealing that bolt, would requires something in the range of about 600c or 1110 Bald eagles per school shooting.
Whilst heating it will make it expand and it will weaken it, it's temporary it will return to it's original size and hardness, strength etc once cooled. Annealing is permanent and requires both s specific amount of time at the hold temperature and then a very controlled cooling cycle to change the physical properties.
As always love your work and I was all motivated to do stuff after work today, but I just had to reallocate 50 mins.
And I'm sure 15% of my own views are me re watching jobs I did to see where stuff went lol.
When it's many hundred degrees F and you think you should torque it when it's hot, it behaves at that really hot moment as if it were. You are correct sir, you have to get it hot enough to change its state. Get them molecules vibrating relentless. Then cool it in such a way that they're still all spread out. All I did was make mine a little bit swole.
@@Jafromobile and a little soft, temporarily
Hey just a shout out to you Jafro, your video's inspired me and helped me a lot when it came to fixing my cars, your videos are awesome.
Fought a similar fight on the rear end for my awd swap on the spyder. I can't overstate how convenient an induction "torch" is over a traditional one with rusty bolts. I got many bolts I'd given up on years before loose with a borrowed induction torch that propane could never loosen.
My buddy Abe's got one of those. We're going to use it on the Galant's rear axle stubs to pull the ABS reluctor wheel. I may try it in a few spots to see if it can help with the body fasteners, but I'm aware the heat from an induction "torch" isn't as easily focused as a TIG welder. Induction is wizard tech. Magic!!!
I use concrete bits for super hard materials. A nasty 60rc hardness thing I was messing with taught me 150 rpm with lots of drilling oil and time is what does best.
Love where this is going! At some point I need to own another 2g. Doing the lords work with all that bolt extraction, I’ll throw some tools around for you next time I’m in the garage. 😂
Don't break your routine on my behalf! I just had to leave my shop and cut the grass at the house, myself. I totally get it! I'll accept throwing lawn equipment around in lieu of tools.
BTW hardened materials can be drilled-out using tungsten carbide drill bits (for concrete) sharpened with diamond etc...
I've been needing/meaning to pick up a set. I'm going to have to if I need to drill anything smaller than 7mm now. Thanks!
Jafro I don't know if it's your voice or what but every single video you make puts me to sleep and then I have to wake up and finish watching it but like back it up like 30 minutes because I was half awake
People feel comfortable enough to fall asleep here because I'm always improving and fixing multiple things per minute with confidence. It's victory after victory for tens of minutes, rife with responsibilities handled, and with a happy ending. For those whose worlds are filled with chaos, this feels like a safe space to fall asleep.
I've never met sub frames nor any other suspension related system that isn't just a son of a beeeeeeeeep to restore. Although I will say their are certainly tiers (or tears now that I think about it) of difficulty out there & Mits might be in the top 5.
You're not wrong. The stuff is bigger, heavier, and takes weirder tools than most people have (or can justify the expense of tools for) to take apart themselves. I'd rank the Galant up there, but I got really lucky with the GSX, I think. A stuck axle being the worst of it. The ABS sensors cost a whole lot less to fix than that today. We turned the GSX into about a 3 by pulling the whole assembly, I think. Can you imagine how much harder all of that would have been to film and light doing it all under the car? How many weird sockets and extensions I'd have had to use? Pulling the assembly is a worthwhile hack for those big jobs.
Jafro, subframe plate, do not forget!!
Dag gone it, I forgot it! I promise I will make it up to all of you!
Yes!!!!! Yes!!! Yes! More Jafro goodness!
Keep up the hard work. Looking forward to seeing this thing in tip top shape again.
Don't forget that other subframe plate Jafro
I hope I get 500 more of these for the next however long this video lives here! :)
Additional reminder for the subframe plate. Keep up the great work Jafro!
Ah thank you! I shall fetch it and deliver it posthaste!
@@Jafromobile the old leave behind brought into the digital age. You've cracked the code for engagement! Well done Sir!
Yes, and now I will get notifications for the next 30 years if I'm lucky!
You can get a bushing press kit, which is essentially threaded rod that goes through the bushing, and has cups on either end.
I tried. That was the video I said I deleted. Matt bought one. I couldn't get any of the parts to fit because of that trailing arm link obstructing the lower ball joint bushing. It was in the way of the only parts in the kit that fit it.
I am currently doing a mini restoration of an extremely rare and weird 80's JDM AWD car, so watching your work on this and the Galant has pretty fun since it lines up with what I am dealing with right now. I am very envious of your bushing availability. I ended up having to make my own bushings, but at least my car uses a macpherson strut setup. Hopefully both of our vehicles are back on the road someday soon.
Iron clad cup on this one... ^^^
I appreciate it when gear heads refuse to take "no" for an answer. Every project has the right mechanic. Sometimes they converge and history is preserved. There needs to be a sainthood of preservationists. We all get ordained the first time we start our thing that we've suffered through... needs to happen.
A dsm legend uploads!!! This i must whatch!!!
Best tool for center punching threads is a broken CNC carbide bit, sharpened into a point, that's just a kiss over 90. Seriously, fleabay and places alike sell these from people trying to recoup something from broken bits. As long as the price is not over cooked, worth buying and having said tool. THAT said, one has to be careful, a normal hammer may make the carbide into an Ambassador Pineapple, and nobody likes that.
Hopes everything keeps going well, great to see so much progress!
"Do you see anything wrong here, Ted?
We don't have any engines, do we!?" 😂
Well _THERE'S_ your problem...
All jokes and references aside, jafro, this is coming along really well. I always enjoy your content and voice overs.
Can't wait to see these continue.
🤘🤘🤘🤘
48 MINUTES BOYZZZ!!! Public education, Jafro style.
Thank you for the thread chaser idea!
Weld a nut to the head of your broken/striped bolt, heaps faster and heats it up to get it loose. Massive time saver and keeps the threads intact
One of my best like channels Jafro!
@Jafromobile Sup brotha.
A few tips on bolt extraction. Carbides meant to run at 20k rpm[1] (I.e. what your compressor drill is spinning at). As we all know, carbides brittle-- you want both your workpiece and your drill bit both securely positioned to prevent snappysnapsnap. That means, clamp your workpiece as well as you can. I've had especially good luck with big ol' cast-iron vices from drill presses at garage sales, then using wood pieces to make custom jigs as one offs. Generally takes 10 minutes to visualize out how to get an optimal jig.
Wood also has the added benefit of damping vibration, and not marring the part. (This is what I would have suggested with your pressing struggles. You could have gone to home depot, purchased structural lumber, boxed around the workpiece, added cross-members tie ins (joists, essentially) moving in towards where you wanted to press (increase these to 4x4 or something stronger, at this point), and use stainless steel pre-drilled plates (those tiny 1"x1/2"x1/32"s) as gussets. Then, for the weird angles, you can just use a miter saw, slip them into the housing jig to pick up the angle, put an appropriate piece of steel plate for rigidity on top of it and you're good to go.
Alternatively, you can use a ball vice to get 2 degrees of freedom (amazon code B09XCC9TKX) which will let you do the same thing but without having to make a jig every time. (That's some cheap chinese junk, I just wanted to show you an example. Since it's going into a 20t press...yeah exercise caution. Those lumber numbers I worked out for you, assuming you're using structurally graded 2x4, and you're boxing, will take 20t no problem. I'd spend the 300 dollars and get a reputable Norton, Record, Wilton, PONY or even Chinese Vevor is getting good marks.)
For running those steel bits for extraction. All them little vibrations, both in your work piece (since as the drill rotates it's imparting a torsional moment) and your drill (even the steadiest hand still will jerk as it hits some form of variance in iron/steel [inclusions of oxide, sulfides, nitrides....slag...sand from the mold...etc]) again are not doing you any help. In general, for extraction you're totally right about heat and such. Most people use the "half speed-half feed" rule (like if you were collaring a hole). In this case, those air drills are absolutely awful since they're doing the opposite of what you want--running high rpm, no torque.
The Milwaukee HOLE_HAWGGG(THUNDER SOUNDEFFECT) 1975-5 models and before (i.e. still American made) runs at 450rpm drawing like >10A, is what you want. I've seen people drill out safes with these (with stabilizing jigs). Theres a real good German company but I forget which, so I can suggest both Drill America and Cleveland who make great bits. Call them and ask them what grind/angle/etc they suggest for broken out [taps,bolts,___]). Bits aren't just "here's some S2 steel, enjoy" its like "Here's TiN coated with nickle manganese chrome vanadium blah blah". I ain't no chemist. Buy some sizes you think would be useful (if 22mm is the highest size bolt you work with, then 6 or 8 should more than cover you-- and their bits will maybe run 20 at max a piece at anything under an inch..buy one or two and see how you like em..), make a faux-drill press, chuck the work to a table and I guarantee you'll never have an issue again. Take a look at AvE's teardown, you'll see why these things are such beasts.
B0BX7S4KT5 amazon code for a steady-jig for your pneumatic drill, next time you're using carbide. (Again, no idea how good this is, but I'd feel comfortable buying that)
(1)Technically these should all be calculated at surface-feet-per-minute (rotational contact area per unit time), but 20k RPM for bits between 1/8th and 1/2in are "good enough" rules of thumb.
Can’t wait for part 3.
Sweet I replaced all my bushings rear and front looks good man
This one's mostly a bushing delete. I think the only bushings I'm going to wind up needing are the rear trailing arm bushing, the rear upper wishbone, and the rear lower arm connections. 6 bushings out of that whole kit.
Yeah! Easy-outs are never easy🤪
I TIG weld my broken bolts to get them out🤘
We'll be doing that quite a bit very soon! I can't do any of this on the body.
just want to say if i havent before.. ty for your videos.
Awesome video!! Thanks for teaching me something
Dermal with a long shank burr most of the time is easier than a drill bit for removing broken bolts
It definitely is the most effective in tight spaces.
I like that steering rack inside/under the subframe design, looks like it would be fairly easy to replace on the car. On my 2004 lancer I had to pull the subframe entirely to replace mine.
It works! Definitely rigid! Cleans up the engine bay! It's still a pain to remove or service on any assembled car either way, but subframe-out is always the easiest way to get at it.
Ok lets go Jafro!
Thanks man.
Beautiful
I wish your videos were 2 hours. I get so into what I’m watching that 45 minutes feels like the snap of a finger. I get anxiety watching the progress bar because I know the end is near
I do have a 2 hour video... Or... no I don't. It's only 93 minutes. :( Rewired a whole car... Fine, I'll start making 2 hour videos then...
This gave me terror flashbacks on the two bare body restorations I have done. Current is a 97 A87 paint code GSX. Powder coat the world Jafro and see you a shootout.
*THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEO.*
Thank YOU HUBBA! I'm picturing you holding back over your keyboard today, like... "where do I even start with this idiot?... heck it's not worth it, I'll just thank him." lol. 😉 💛
@@Jafromobile Nope. Never. Nada. 0.00% 🚫🙅♂ You have always been an inspiration for me, a justification, for blowing my money on old cars!
Hey Jafro. If I'm drilling out a broken off bolt and don't get the hole centered I use a come carbide burr in a die grinder to center the hole before moving up to the tap drill size.
That's the perfect way to do it. It won't hold the bit straight, but it gets you right back on track!
heck yeah let's get it
Your so lucky you don't even understand how lucky you are to have this are it's easy one of 3 of my favourite cars best looking car of all time .this car and the 2007 wrx and 99 gtr if I had these 3 cars I would never drive any other car again the gsx is such a good car.
Brother I do understand. I've been fighting my county for a decade over these cars because I do know. I have changed my lifestyle to accommodate the financial impact of restoring all of them and play the long game because both of these cars were spoiled, straight, complete halo cars of their time. My hands were so full and the commitment was already so large that I almost passed on the Galant purchase. If the owner didn't take such good care of it, I would have. I suspected when I bought it that it needed one of everything. It ultimately did. I wouldn't have spent a decade collecting its parts if I didn't believe it deserved it. This took a whole lot of planning and fighting. I did all of it because I know I'm not the only one who feels this way about these cars. I want to make these videos.
I'm double dipping to explain the love because I'm every bit as excited about this as you are seeing it. Just a whole lot slower motion and less concentrated for me. NEVER give up on your halo cars. Never give up on the fight to own and maintain your own transportation. Posting videos of me doing this in 2023 to a DSM feels like the beginning of an endurance race composed solely of victory laps. I love this! Get those cars you love and sit on them before they're gone. Hit the import market for that gtr next year. It will be 25 years old next year.
Yesssss a new jaffro vid!! 😊😊
HEY EVERYBODY! STEPHEN'S BACK!
@@Jafromobile hahaha 😁 longtime viewer here, fellow mitsu owner in the northeast as well (NY); love the detailed, thorough, and laid-back educational content man, glad to see another vid 🙌🏻
Hell yeah brother! Keepin' the dreams alives! 30th anniversary of the shootout this year...
I've yet to successfully remove anything with an EZ out. Jokes with the punchline "and now I have two problems" come to mind.
They're tricky. The secret is to only use them when the bolt is a dissimilar material from its host. You're supposed to drill a very specific sized hole for it to work. Use the biggest easy out you can fit in the hole you're able to drill, and drill the biggest hole you can get away with in your bolt. But I'm of the opinion that you shouldn't use them at all. The only place they've ever helped me is with broken exhaust studs in a cylinder head. The only place.
it made me pause when you said 30 year restoration. growing up, that would be a car from the 50s, 95 doesn't feel that long ago :)
I know what you mean. In my mind, the Pantera I grew up with has always been 15 years old, but that car in reality has always been the exact the same age as me.
Im with ya on the no ac, windows down for me too.
There were times. We all have the times. We all remember those times. No AC is for making memories.
Always love your content, hope to see you at the shootout, didn't even know you were there last year
I was with Matt supporting the red car that you see in the background. Its owner didn't make it but his car did. Chances are good for this year, I hope none of that changes!
@@Jafromobile yeah Chad was confusing me... he was sending me pictures of him in like Georgia or something but his car was at the event lol
Helicoil is a viable repair, if you install it correctly it'll be plenty strong. I trust helicoils even on cylinder head bolts.
Helicoil is actually stronger than the original hole because the threads are steel, and you have to drill and tap a larger hole with a larger footprint to install the new threads. Some people preemptively helicoil exhaust manifold studs for really high power boosted race builds so they can torque them harder.
Volk Metalcraft stuff is great. His shop is a county over from me. I hope to get a bunch of his stuff soon.
So for those of us who don't want to delete their ABS systems and managed to destroy the rear sensors trying to remove them (the fronts came out fine though), and apologies if you covered it here or elsewhere, but what are our options other than buying new ones for a ridiculous ~$300 per each side, tracking down used ones on eBay and such or in junkyards?
Meaning, are there much cheaper generic aftermarket ones that can fit or be made to fit and work with a 1G's ABS system, with perhaps some sleeves and circuitry to get the output voltage to what the ECM expects, that you can then connect to the existing rear ABS wiring harness? They're just passive parts that detect changes in induced current or voltage, so no magic there.
The thread repair/chaser kit can be rented from O'Reillys auto, if you need it in a pinch, and it has saved me many times, it should go without saying, but if you rent the tool just remember to use some wd40 or other penetrating oil on the threads before using the tool, many times the rental tools end up stripped or damaged because the last guy messed up the tool threads by not putting any oil on the threads before undertaking the job.
Noice! Agreed on the rented tools! I've had some bad experiences renting pressure testers of various sorts that leaked, and therefore risked breaking/buying someone else's used tool trying to fix it. But I didn't know they had a thread repair kit? You'd think those would be pretty hard to break... but it's nice to know they've got them in case I'm away from my tools! Personally I'd rather use my own tool, and that way I know for sure all the holes its ever explored. Oh... I said it... It's true, though. For the exact same reasons you stated.
@@Jafromobile The thread on the taps might take more abuse then how I described above, I doubt just 1 person trying to repair a thread with no oil, well at least in all cases, would damage them, it could also have been a few attempts using the wrong tap for the threads or perhaps they were confused and used them thinking they were thread taps or a combination of that and then some lol, all I know is one time i rented a set and it had some stripped ones in it, And I agree 100% owning a repair kit for yourself is gold, I have repaired a few used steering column threads that were mushroomed from people going hulk on them using a hammer method, it's easily well worth the $50 investment.
These vids make me feel bad about the work i've done and the condition of my mustang :(
These videos make me feel bad about the previous work I did. Or didn't do. But you know what, man? It's okay. It's part of the journey.
I didnt realise the curved arms were now discountinued. Shoot, im stocking up to late.
Oh boy if you bring some stuff to the shootout I might buy some of it I love having spare shit
Also subframe cover
Maybe... just maybe... I have to make sure I don't need any of it first. If I put a Whiteline unit on here, I won't need these sway bars... and now both are out of powder coat yesterday, freshly-wrapped, never-handled. They're both incredible. Fit for my GSX. But I have to make sure I don't need any of this first.
Ope, dont forget the subframe gusset Jafro 😅
I totally did forget it. Thank you! I found the bin tonight and will take it with the next batch! My replies will get weirder and weirder to this over the years, watch.
@Jafromobile I cant wait to see how your replies evolve 😂, but I'm glad I was able to help in this journey.
Easy outs suck so bad.weld a nut on there some times it takes few trys but the heat of welding helps alot best way iv found is welding a nut on there
They do. There are so many cool different ways to weld nuts and extract things. Washers are sometimes necessary, too. We're going to weld all kinds of nuts to these cars soon. All kinds of nuts.
Been through the same ordeal with Subaru ABS sensors. A perfect fit piece of plastic in a metal hole that will expand inward due to corrosion. Hmmmmm. Doesn't work out. 😂
Do you not already have a drawer with various TimeSert / HeliCoil or other thread repair kits? Some of those bolt extractions may have been easier in the drill press.
I do, but I use them as a last resort. If I can get the original hole to hold the bolt at the right torque, I always prefer that over drilling it out unless it's a hot part.
Not sure you remembered, but you need to get that sub frame plate.
Totally forgot it. I do this just to find out who my real friends are.
I have a single rear abs sensor sitting around. It's yours if you need it.
I'm about to fire up a 30 year old Mac and check part numbers... I'm looking for a rear-left.
@@Jafromobile I have a left rear. I pulled it from my AWD donor for my Spyder. It's yours if you tell me where to ship it.
Hey man, are you near the Lexington area? You didn't happen to know a guy named Ben with an 04 STI?
I can't believe how cluttered up the firewall is on the GSX. My IS300 only has a few small brake lines and a tidy wiring harness and even that bothers me.
I know! It's as if Mitsubishi was trying to win a contest for how much they could pack into the engine bay. The stubby nature of the 2g hood meant everything they started in previous generations had to move backwards. It's even a tighter gap between the firewall and the engine block than with the 1g stuff. 5 pound bag analogy definitely applies.
❤👍
Also look at Dodge Avengers and Neons
The Neons didn't use these knuckles or axles, but there is a random smattering of other cars that did. They just weren't very popular. Some Sebrings have a 6g72 in them.
awesome. can we talk about sponsorship？
If you can't find it as sebring put dodge avenger. The only bad thing is they charge more for the avenger parts. The 95-99 avenger.
What thread clean up did you use
Why poly instead of spherical, or delrin?
The bind that comes from poly is kind of absurd.
What thread chaser kit do you use sir !
It actually doesn't have a brand. I wish it did because this would make it easier for me. It changes names and sellers based on supplies on amazon. If you search Amazon for "thread chase set" and scroll through the pictures, you'll see the one I have somewhere between 40-60 bucks. Look for the one with the two straight thread files in it that I didn't even talk about or use.
If got some trq upper control arms once and lowers once and the bushings were poop
The trick is to leave the bushed arms loose, set the tires on blocks so you can still get under it, set the car down on the blocks, and THEN torque the bolts to spec. Skip that method, and any bushing will become poop very quickly from being twisted and preloaded. I can't find a big difference in the amount of material and the shape of the rubber molding between these four arms. If you don't know for certain they were installed the way I've described, know that I've been guilty of this on this same car, and it's why I went through 2 sets of front lower control arms. Note the bushings in my factory compression arms were still good, but they had never been taken loose before. I replaced them only because one joint was loose. I'm going to give them a torture test and find out. There's no poly bushing available for this arm so they will be the only rubber-bushed arms in my front end.
RIP cruise control
Don't fool yourself! ;)
Ah, chrysler learned many of these tricks from mitsubishi it seems
Yessir! Many of the parts... and sharing technology and even whole cars rebranded as the others since the early '80's. Second gen DSMs were all built in a Chrysler plant in IL.
You have links to the abs sensors?
No, but I'll get you part numbers that worked for me. They're specific to 1995-96. Herko ABS246 is Front Right. Herko ABS247 is rear right. The prices are reasonable for those. I can not find rear left anything online that isn't THREE HUNDRED DOLLARS or that's made for AWD cars, only FWD. But there appears to be some stock available for the front left (driver's side). The side I don't need.
@@Jafromobile I have a 99
Love your videos
Hi Jafro, My name is Young from Kingbolen. Did you love diagnostics on cars?
I want to send our new diagnostic to you to test, Do we have a connecting in the near future?
Had a 96 GST, totaled. Now I only have an evo9 with 70k miles original owner.
You picked the hardest, most expensive and painful way possible to go AWD, but you have incredible foresight!
Hey jafro what about the colt
I drove around with a 2x4 in my hatch for 6 years. stupid gas struts...
Oh you can totally hear the experience in my voice while I talk about it...