HOW TO BUILD A SHED
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- Опубликовано: 11 июн 2024
- This is part 1 of a 5 part video series I did on building a garden/pool shed. In this episode I cover how to set the base and build the floor structure for a 12X24 shed with a 3' porch on one end.
This shed was built in spring of 2019 and the total cost of materials was $3500
Here is the materials list.
Part 1
10- 4X8X16 concrete blocks (pads)
12- 2x6x12' treated (for runners/beams)
24- 2x4x12' treated (floor joist and girth boards)
8 pcs 4'x8'x3/4" ADVANTECH subfloor (available at lowes)
5 lbs 3" deck screws
5 lbs 2" deck screws
Part 2
14- 2x4x12 ’ regular (Top & bottom plates + perlins)
16- 2X4X10’ regular (Top & bottom plates + perlins)
42- 2x4x8’ regular (Studs + bracing)
2- 4x4x8’ Cedar-tone treated (porch header / loft floor) (Available at Menards)
3- 2x8x12’ Cedar-tone treated (porch header / loft floor) (Available at Menards)
1-2x8x8’ Cedar-tone treated (porch header / loft floor) (Available at Menards)
10 lbs 16 penny nails
2 lbs 3” deck screws
Part 3
26-2X4X8' (rafters)
2 pcs 4x8x7/16" O.S.B. (rafter plates)
6 - 2X4X12' (spacer perlins)
11-2x4x16' (roof perlins)
1 - 2x4x12' (roof brace)
5 - 2x4x10' (end-wall framing)
3 - 2x4x8' (end-wall framing
1 - 2x4x12' (end-wall perlins)
1 - 2x4x10' (end-wall perlins)
4 - 2x4x8' (end-wall perlins)
5 lbs 16 penny nails (framing)
3 lbs 8 penny nails (rafter plates)
Part 4
Roof and trim = (CHARCOAL Color)(crinkle texture)
16 pcs metal 66” (upper part of roof)
16 pcs metal 30” (lower part of roof)
4- 8’x3 ½” corners (Shed wall corners)
4-10’x3 ½” corners (ends of the roof)
6 pcs rat guard (bottom of sidewall metal)
8 pcs j-channel (around the doors)
5 pcs drip edge 4”x4” (bent for a 24/12 pitch) (roof eave)
5 pcs break trim 4”x4” (bent for a 10/12 pitch) (break between upper and lower roof)
3 pcs ridge cap (peak of roof)
1 bag of 2” Charcoal screws (250) (to fasten the roof metal)
1 bag of 1” Charcoal screws (250) (to fasten corners)
32 solid foam closures (under break trim and ridge cap)
1 - 4’x125’ roll of bubble-wrap (roofing underlayment)
Sidewall metal = (IVORY color)
2 pcs metal 120” (each side of garage door)
3 pcs metal 85” (each side of entry door)
14 pcs metal 83” (both sidewalls)
4 pcs metal 54” (2 center pieces on each gable end)
2 pcs metal 3’ (2 outer pieces on gable above porch)
2 bags 1” Ivory screws (500) (sidewall metal)
Garage door trim = white
1 pc 1 ½”x7”x10’ (hemmed on both sides) (bottom piece)
3 pcs 1 ½”x 4 ½”x10’ (sides and top pieces)
1 lb 1 ½” roofing nails (to nail trim on)
1 lb 1” white stainless steel trim nails (to nail garage door trim and seals)
Part 5
Deck
9 - 5 1/2 X 10’ treated decking
2lbs 2 1/2” deck screws
Loft
9- 5 1/2” X 10’ treated decking
Or 1 1/2 pcs 4’ X 8’ Advantech
2lbs 2 1/2” deck screws
8’ wide X 7’ tall Garage Door
2-7’ garage door seals
1-8’ garage door seal
Garage door latch
1-36” Entry door (left hand)
Doorknob/deadbolt combo
Pack of shims
2- 24” wide X 36” tall windows
1-18” wide X 24” tall (loft) window
1 lb 1 1/2 roofing nails
Secondary loft (light weight storage)
7-2x6x12’. (Loft Joists)
2-2x4x8’ (cut in 12” for blocks to support 2x6)
3 pcs 7/16” osb (Loft floor)
18- 7/16” h clips
1 lb 2 1/2” screws
1 lb 1 1/4”!screws
Electrical
3 single nail on boxes
2 light boxes
1 plug-in & cover
2 3way switches & 2 single covers
2 white lamp holders & bulbs
60’ 14-3 wire
10’ 14-2
Wire staples
MATERIAL LIST IS NOT GUARANTEED
FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY 
Развлечения
Halfway through the first video and I can already say this is probably the best video on building a shed I have seen.
Thank you so much!
Great job this is what my wife wants for our yard the problem is I'm no carpenter but following you it could be possible thanks for sharing
Well, I've watched all 5 videos, saved them to Favorite, and will be watching them again. You did as great a job on the video as you did on the shed. (Probably not your first shed). The detail and the double views you gave were as good as I've ever seen, great job editing.
Thank you!
Very nice. When we built our shed, I put steel screens under our shed before we built it. That’s to keep groundhogs, cats and whatever else out. I noticed groundhogs would dig underneath the shed of my neighbors and get inside. They showed no mercy on what was stored inside of that shed! Chain link fence works too!!
Thank you! That’s not a bad idea.
Thank you. This has been one of the best videos for building a shed.
Awesome! Thank you!
Awesome...just love the lush green fields
This helped me tremendously to begin understanding the process for building myself a shed and chicken coop! Thank you! Well done 👍
Thank you!
Thank you very much man, I really needed this. Im planning to build a small house for myself. I didnt know how to start
Right! I had no idea how to build and this helped me a ton!
Very well done. Simple methods and just enough lumber for the base of a shed
Thank you, Michael!
You're awesome! I installed my metal roof after you posted your videos on how to do it. My wife and I were talking about needing to build a shed, and here you are again! Haha. Another great video! Thanks so much!
Haha, that’s awesome! I doubt I can go 3 for 3. Bear with me as I finish uploading the rest of the shed build. Currently very busy. How did your roof go?
Went great apart from being afraid of heights! But I knocked it out, looks great, and most importantly doesn't leak! Haha
That’s awesome! The “no leaks” part is always a good thing. Haha.
Watching and need to learn a lot from you here from the philippines... thank you.....shout out to all your subscribers......JOSE...🤗
Thanks for watching!
@@MT_Homes Same here....☺️
Great video , you really show a lot of details.
Thank you!
Sound and simply. That's best.
Thank you, it is very good and easy to follow. ❤
Great job man ilove it i say many of us need a shed in a home that one is huge i like it
Thank you!
This video changed my life. Thank you
Great Video and Detailed Instructions !! .. Thank you
You are talented in so many ways. I learned many tricks from your work to help me do things by myself.
Awesome! Thank you!
Best video, and I would like to thank you, I already buil two based on your video, many Thanks, Jorge.
That’s awesome, Jorge! Thank you!
I truly like your style!! PATRICK
Thank you!
I thank you for sharing your videos, they are very informative..I subscribed
Thank you! I appreciate your support!
Good info. Great job.
Thanks Teri!
I would have put some gravel under those blocks for drainage, like the do for above ground pools. Could you put tar paper down under the plywood floor.
tanks for share your skills
Great video tbanks
I would have never thought about laminate the beams
I really enjoyed this video! The detailed information was very helpful, especially the clear supply list in the description. I look forward to watching the rest of the series.
Could this shed be moved in the future, or is it something that would always have to stay where it was built?
Thanks again for the helpful info!
Thank you for the nice reply! Yes, one of the handy things about this type of shed is that it can be moved. We have several companies in the area with equipment and trailers designed to move sheds. 2 things I would do different though if I thought I might move it someday. One, is put an extra set of runners underneath at the same width as the trailer. (8’, I think) Two, is possibly shorten my sidewalls or flatten the peak so it’s not too tall to fit under power lines and bridges when hauling it on a trailer.
Great video bro!
Thanks Bro!
Good job brother, cheers from San Diego.
Thanks for sharing!
Great job, especially important for non-pros like me.
Thank you, Frank!
Great job my friend, keep safe
Thank you!
Thanks for sharing dude. Give me an idea for mine.
Awesome! Bear with me as I get the rest of it uploaded. Very busy currently. Thanks for watching!
I like your video's was wondering if you had plans for the shed.?
Wish I had those carpentry skills
Aw Shucks. Thanks David!
Its not hard to learn, just follow the steps as per the clip and you will be working on projects like a pro in no time and as they say I did it my own way works well to.
David Coleman you can do it. My wife and I built a small wood shop, 10x16 and about to build her a she shed. Plenty of RUclips videos. If I can learn to fly a plane at 59, you can build a shed. I’m sure you can...
awesome!
Well done
I would have loved to have seen some mid-span lateral support bracing, but with 2x6s and that nice thick subfloor, I'm not sure it matters too much. Still got shed envy.
Great video glad to see you’re back on here again with the new project can’t wait to see the end result and the progress along the way by the way did you get your home sold you did in the last video
Hi Scott! Yes we did get that house sold. Working on another one now.
Can’t wait to see what you guys do with that one awesome work on those houses can’t wait to see you finish the shed to you have a great day
Thanks! You too!
Nice job buddy
Thanks Buddy!
How can you be sure those blocks on the foundation, wont sink over time?
VERY CLEVER ! KUDOS TO YOU SIR !
Thank you!
M.T. HOMES I was searching you tube for ages trying to find how to do a shed base ...but every video was for smaller sheds.... I'm building a 12 x 24 shed lol....and I found you.
Excellent.. but I was expecting you to fit some centre supports of some kind...you didn't though ..so is the floor strong enough without any support through the middle ?
Also... could I just build the frame on the slabs and do away with those expensive looking 6 inch runners ?
Im trying to do a good job but unfortunately on a budget.
Thanks mate....off to watch part 2 now.
Appreciate the support, sir. The main reason for the runners is to support the floor and also this type of shed is considered temporary and or movable. I wouldn’t recommend building the floor without runners for 2 reasons.
1 Is you would have to put a support under each floor joist. You would probably end up spending more in support blocking than you would save in runners. 2. Is the runners keep the shed floor off of the ground which provides air flow underneath the shed. To set the shed floor directly on the ground with no air flow could cause molding issues and high moisture from the ground could drastically reduce the life of the shed floor even though it is treated for ground contact. The shed works great for lightweight storage but moving the 2 runners out 12” and adding a third runner in the middle would be a great idea for heavier storage. Good luck!
I know it’s not a huge span, but I would have blocked the joist in the middle. Nice tho
Are the 2x4 floor joists strong enough? Especially with only the 2 skid runners? I’m planning on building a 12x16 shed and was going to use three 4x4 or 4x6 skids and 2x6 joist 16 o.c. Or is that going to be way overkill? I will be putting at least 2 commercial zero turns in there over the winter.
This is brilliant. Very inspiring. Wondering if you have built a shed with an obscured angle? I plan to build a shed thats 4ft at the back but 7ft at the entrance and around 13ft long. Thanks.
Thank you! I have never built a shed like that. Would be an interesting build for sure. Good luck!
@@MT_Homes you could build one so I know what I'm doing lol
Problem is I wouldn’t know what I’m doing, lol.
This was a fantastic series, much appreciated. I think you're in a relatively cold climate, and maybe it's too soon to notice, but any concern about frost shift? Also, I noticed runners were not PT, is that just because they're not touching dirt?
Thank you! Most folks around here just set their sheds on the ground or on a gravel pad. I used concrete pads to give me something solid and level to build on. So far it hasn’t shifted. And yes the runners and the floor joists are all pressure treated.
Hands down the best series I have seen 😊any way to buy these plans from you ?? Thank you for the amazing video
Thank you! I don’t have any plans available, sorry.
great job, I am impressed with your work and all your videos, you are quite knowledgeable for a young guy, if you don't mine me asking what the total cost for all the materials to build the shed?
Thank you! Total cost for materials was $3500
Thank u !
thank you
Man .... ever need to put siding on that house .... Gonna be some tight work.
Hello! Can you please explain how you set your string, please? I’d greatly appreciate it. I’m starting to do my foundation and it’s not seeming to work.
I need a shed and I put down brick piers under the 4x4's. My building department wants me to put a solid 20x12" solid footing or have the pier footing engineered! Did you have any issues? Thanks
What type of screws did you use for the treated lumber on floor??
Decking screws. T25 bits. Special coated for treated lumber.
Would have put midspan blocking and also glue on joist, would make it alot more solid for years to come
Will those concrete blocks settle over time and the shed lose level? How will that OSB floor perform in very humid south Florida? .. I'm temped to just do a soil cement floor.
There’s always a chance the blocks could settle if you put a lot of weight in one area. Another good option is to put about 6” of gravel down, level it, then set the runners on that. Im not a fan of setting the runners directly on the dirt. The osb I used is water resistant. It’s called “advantech”. Lowe’S carries it. A lot of local shed companies use it. Providing you have good airflow under the shed floor it should last a long time.
Can you elaborate on why you snapped the chalk line for the subfloor at 48.25 inches? Just curious. Thanks for the video!
Welcome!
The extra .25” is to ensure the subfloor never hangs past the framing in case of variation. On a shed like that I probably could’ve went exactly 48” but on houses we would always go 48.25”. That is if the subfloor measures 48” (including the tongue).
Great idea for the 24' long skids / runners. If you were building on a steep grade, 24 inches over 12ft run, would it be safe/acceptable to stack 4" blocks to that height to support the runner?
Anything over 3 blocks (12”) high I would double up the blocks giving you a 16”x16” contact with the ground, and Cris-crossing every other layer to tie them together. Anything over 2’ high I would pour a pad to set the blocks on. I’ve seen quite a few situations where tall stacks of blocks sitting on dirt will shift over time. Just some ideas, obviously check local building codes.
Hi, been running thru your videos several times, great info gonna give it a go, one question if that’s ok, but the material lists calls for the floor joists and girth boards to be 2 inch, but when you measure the guide lines, you only measure a 1.5 inch gap, am I missing something? Many thanks. Martyn form the UK. 😀
I believe it is because in the US our 2x4s' girth are actually 1.5 inches (1.5" x 3.5"). They are only 2x4 in name. I think that is because the old timers used the actual dimensions of 2"x4", but when things modernized/industrialized the measurements changed and the name stayed the same.
Right on, Sir Christopher!
Nice work but I woulda used 2x6 joists, especially with that much overhang off the skids. Whatever works for you, though
2x6 for sure.
Totally agree! I build one just like this years ago, with 2x4's and totally regretted the small savings. The center part would mildly bounce with every step on it and finally resorted to a center support after the fact, but found over time, the center mildly raised up from the weight on the outer parts of the small 2x4 joists.
Why not have run footings out to sides to support weight from the outside walls then run some footing for support in the center?
Hi M.T. Homes. i assume that your shed finished is 12' x 24? When you do the framing do you accommodate for the thickness of the sheathing? Depending on the sheet size of sheathing, i.e. 4'x8' sheets of whatever material a person may select. For example (for my benefit), if you want a 12'x24' finished shed and my sheathing is 1/2", I would my rough framing would be 1" smaller in each direction. The benefits I assume would be that your sheathing would be full pieces for the most part. Here is the reason I ask. I would like to use your roof truss example, and I wanted to understand if your dimensions work for the framing where the actual outside of walls are 12'x24' , or just under like in this example where my rough framing would be 11'-11" x 23'-11". Sorry for the long comment... Thanks again.
Great question. Normally when framing walls with 1/2 or 7/16” osb I will make the framing exactly the dimensions of the build. So if I would’ve used osb on this build, the outside of the framing would be 12’x24’. But since I used 2x4 purlins I actually kept the walls in 1 1/2” on each side which means the rafters are built for 11’9” width. For 12’ width simply cut the 2 top sections of the rafter 1 5/8” longer than the measurement I had. Or add 3 3/8” to both of the bottom sections. All angles stay the same. Hope this makes sense.
At 8:24, what were those things on the board that developed/appeared when you were putting in a screw? Great job, by the way!
The screws pushed out beads of moisture from where the boards were pressure treated. Thanks!
M.T. HOMES I appreciate the reply! I’m subscribing today, as I can learn much from your channel. After all this food shortage crap, I’m getting ready to build a chicken coup on my property. Thanks, again! I feel more confident with your tutorials.
No problem. Appreciate your support Joel! Good luck with your build!
Great video apart from the repetitive music which is way to loud... why do people think these type of videos need terrible music that no one would choose to listen to. Just talk instead which is fine. Please people stop adding terrible music to instructional video, I had to turn off sound to get through it
Your just old
Lmao Vince bequiet!! 😂😂😂
Center block line along with gluing plywood to the joists would have been an inexpensive strengthener...i don't think strenghthener is a real word though..
rustynailsish I like the word strengthener myself.
col I don’t know if it’s in a dictionary, but it “feels” like a good and descriptive word.
Do you need to screw runners to the blocks, or it won't move anyways after the weight of base?
It won’t move unless there’s a tornado or hurricane. Fortunately we get neither in our area. Mobile home type anchor would work if you want to anchor it.
Nice, we don't see cow's in the Eastcoast. Cheers from Connecticut.
I live on the east coast, not 10 miles from the Atlantic Ocean, there's hella cows all around me here.
would this be able to support two stories
What was the purpose of the chalk line? Great video btw!!
Thanks Troy! The chalk line ensures I get the subfloor in a straight line.
Kudos for the video content! Sorry for butting in, I would appreciate your initial thoughts. Have you tried - *WoodBlueprints. Com* It is a great one of a kind guide for building better sheds and woodworking without the normal expense. Ive heard some decent things about it and my cousin finally got astronomical success with it.?
What would be of high wind like tornado will come and blow that out like a cotton ball .if if ….I was missed that strong foundation for that shed?is this like a bird nest on the tree?
It will happen the same as with your car or travel trailer or semi truck trailer. Never saw people tie down their cars even in high wind regions. And again, maybe in his location has no high winds at all.
Would there be any reason to use treated 2x10s instead of 2x6 for the floor joists and frame?
Not on a storage shed like this. I would add a middle runner if more support was needed. Anything bigger than a 2x6 Floor joists I would build on a foundation.
This is a great job, and you can never fault a man for trying it themselves. However, I have been around sheds my whole life and a common misconception is that if you build it with skids it is portable. That is not the case and you can get into a lot of trouble transporting this building outside of your yard.
There are no restrictions like that in my area. There are at least 5 different shed companies in my area that build and transport sheds just like this one all day long. Over 8’ you need a permit.
M.T. HOMES In Florida it is much different then. We can get into a lot of trouble here. DOT will get you good.
Will the blocks move when it freezes? Is this shed build good for a place with bad winter's?
I’m sure they will shift a little bit, but a lot of people in my area have sheds either on blocks or on gravel with no issues. Check your local codes.
If that is a concern you could simply set some footings with a posthole digger in place of the blocks.
@@deplorable_2024
I got power lines criss crossing underground. Need to put this shed on gravel or blocks. I'll do gravel and the. Blocks on top
So I'm building a 10x10 she'd just for storage can I use the blocks instead of putting down a concrete pad
Check your local codes. Some areas require a footer or slab. My area (rural) does not.
I didn't see it in the video but did you attach the joists to the runners at all? The video shows from squaring to installing osb.
Yes I put a screw through every joist into both runners.
@@MT_Homes thx for the reply!
Ive been watching a lot of these shed videos and im a newbie so forgive my ignorance. Do you need to attached the runners to the pads? If yes, how? If not, why not? Thank you!
No. In my area these sheds are considered portable and are never anchored down. If you live in an area with very high winds or codes require it you may want to anchor. If I want to anchor it down though I wouldn’t use pads like I did here. I would want an anchor rod or concrete pillar at least 3-4’ into the ground.
@@MT_Homes thank you!
No concern with weeds since the shed is off the ground? I’m debating doing what you did or pouring a pad. My shed is only going to be 8x12
Pouring a pad would definitely be better but not necessary as I don’t have any weed problem. If you pour a pad you could just set your walls right on the concrete and not have to build a floor.
I noticed that you didn't put any damp proof material on your joists
🤘
Why so close to the other building, difficult to get between and maintain don't you think?
Had to because of property line. Shed is temporary and can be moved.
M.T. HOMES yea that is the great thing about how that foundation is made, it’s perfect to move. Good thinking ahead brother!
Why did you use screws instead of nails? Would it be just as sturdy with a nail gun and 3 inch nails?
I always use screws in treated wood. Nails just don’t hold as well and allow the wood to warp when exposed to elements. I used nails on the regular framing.
Is 2x4 strong enough for the 8 feet floor span?
Depends on what you use it for. This one is for lightweight storage. Personally I would add a 3rd beam in the middle before going to 2x6’s if I needed it to be stronger.
2x6 spans no more than 6 ft for a deck joist.
What kinds of sidings is good to used please advise
I used metal siding on this build. Vinyl siding is good as well. Both are very low maintenance.
for the runners you used 2x6x8? im going to build a 12x20
I used 2x6x12’ I believe.
Why no concrete pad? My shed was built with no pad and the floor is all rotting away due to rain.
As long as you have air flow between the shed floor and the ground, it should last years. A concrete slab won’t help preserve the floor vs a gravel pad or concrete pads like I used, providing there’s no standing water.
I used to live in Michigan. My neighbor built sheds just like this for a living. They are considered a temporary structure so no need for a foundation in most cases. With that said, I agree. Always check local codes.
Using 2x4s for floors I would have added another runner, thats a decent span between runners.
8:23. Watch the screws force moisture to the surface!
Great video but a lot of videos tell you to put gravel underneath blocks I’m assuming it’s not always necessary based on your dirt
Depends on how heavy you’re gonna load it. This shed is temporary so I just laid pads down to keep the runners out of the dirt.
The gravel is just a quick way to level the base under the blocks.
So rewarding to watch - The cost of wood though, in 2021... wow...
Thank you! And yea, you’re not kidding about the cost of wood. Hoping that changes after the spring/summer rush.
Won't the shed sink in time. With the weather changing?
Hasn’t yet! Gravel or concrete would be better but mine is holding up well.
Why did you put the shed so close to the garage? What about weeds and grass growing up between the buildings?
Had to because of property line. Not enough rain or sun for anything to grow although could always landscape that area.
Theres this stuff called Roundup that does a great job in tight places!
@@cathiwim Roundup never worked that well for me. Stuff wouldn't die all the way, or would regrow in no time. If I'm going to use a chemical herbicide I'll use Ortho Ground Clear. It kills everything and lasts about a year. But for permanency I'd probably put down a deep layer of mulch or gravel.
Should floor joist be a little beafier.
Nevermind look like spruce befote
What secures the runner to the concrete blocks?
Gravity.
@@matchstickdesignco ...and friction.
Hey your back
Yea, Buddy! Back to the Grind, lol.
Can you help me to build a shed for 10 x 12 at my back yard or you know some one please let me know . It’s look nice
Thanks Ruth! Unfortunately I don’t hire out anymore. Best bet would be to do a search locally for a company that builds these types of sheds.
Man, I feel like around here (western, NC), my pads would have sunk into the ground in a year.
Climate & ground texture can definitely make or break your build
What state was this built in?
John Jacob JinglehimerSchmidt probably somewhere they still have freedom to build!
So how come you only used 2x4's for the floor joists?
Because I wanted to. It has held up great! For heavy storage I would add a 3rd beam in the middle.