Kudos! I have multiple Fluke meters also...retired 39 year journeyman electrician. I always link your videos to folks seeking top notch info on RV repairs in all the FB groups I follow.
You helped me diagnose my dead leveling system. I thought it was a bad motor, hooked up ext battery source and it worked. Saw lot of corrosion on the power into the solenoid and took the leads off of that terminal leaned it with wire brush and put it back together. It now runs perfectly. Thanks so much. Couldn’t get in anywhere or get mobile service for months so again thank you. Keep up the great info videos and advice.
If you're an egotist sorry I meant sadist you're approach is what you do. Thanks for the info. I got priblems with my controller need insights on how to fix that
Thanks, very helpful to show a systematic troubleshooting process and experienced explanation. Also good job on audio and video quality. My suggestion would be to add or continue with a new video, after replacing the motor. For example, what caused the motor to fail; i.e. maybe the driven pump was locked up causing the motor to overheat etc. Thanks again for sharing your good work.
Hi Russ, Thanks for the compliment! I like your suggestion on the follow-up video. We already have that customer repaired and on his way. Another Happy Camper!!! I do still have the motor and I am collecting a box of failed components that when I get a slow day (not likely over the next few months here) I plan on dissecting on camera for a show and tell series. That may come out in a few months though. In the immediate pipeline is more electrical fault sleuthing (in post production now) an awning R&R and about 7+ Dometic refrigerator video's. Thanks for being a part of our channel! I appreciate you! Cheers, Darren Koepp
This is 100% how science works. 2:53 He forms multiple hypothesis and reveals his method. He then gathers evidence that either supports or disproves his hypothesis. 12:00 He gathers compelling evidence for the theory that the motor is not working. He discusses his research until the end. There are lots of statistics that can be applied to the scientific method, but none-the-less, this man has used the scientific method to diagnose his RV.
Hey Tracy, LOL - thanks for the comment. I don't have any real competition in my area - there are a few part-time guys that have been here for years handling mobile RV repairs (I have only been in this area about 2 years, was in Texas a few years before we escaped the heat and came up here) but I don't think they approach this market as serious a business as I have done. There area also a few shops but they hate loosing a tech out of the shop to address an on-site call. So far it has been going well. Interestingly there have been several mobile RV Techs throughout the states that have reached out to me on these comments and email asking how I have my business structured, inventory, CRM etc. I may have a new gig as a consultant eh'! Cheers, Darren
Great video, I’ve had my coach at the repair shop for this problem with LCI. So now I bought the $800 motor and no joy. LCI tech said it is now the control module. There went another $370 and the labor is not even included. I sure hope they will do a return at LCI for motor. If not I guess I have a spare.
No issues with my LCI until today. Display panel lights up. In Manual and Auto mode, the display "says", "Grounding left front". However, no movement. Clicking on the solenoid. Soleniod, good volts all the way around. When reset and using motor as ground, 0 volt on motor side (L) and 13.22 volts on the soleniod side. But, im not getting anything on the motor when not engaged like you did in your video.
At 6:12 those test leads have PIN CUSHION wire test clips. They pierce the insulation with tiny pins in an area about the size of a pencil eraser. The pins contact the copper and just barely damage the insulation, though they do penetrate the vinyl . Not good if submersed in water or repeatedly squeezed in the same spot.. If in a constantly wet or salt air environment, the copper will eventually create resistance or a "high open" and dissolve until completely powdered. Then the problem will be hard to find unless you pull on the wire and find the corroded break inside the insulation that still looks intact. JwgK
Sure enjoyed finding this content today after you posted 3 yrs ago! Is there a way to override electrical to retract jack? Maybe bleed system while manually jacking each jack? Was given some attachment to insert in the motor but I wouldn't know which valve to retract. Not trying yet! Our 2013 Montana has an issue with retracting jacks. The pump will extend jacks & slides work fine, just not retract jacks. I'm thinking our issue was placing several 6v lead-acid batteries which off-gased in compartment with controller causing it to malfunction. Exterior panel was replaced after overheating in hot sun. Is that common? Thanks so much for all your wonderful educational videos.
Great video. I wonder. Those motors are insanely expensive now. Do you know how to repair the motor? I was thinking, it's just a magnet with a bunch of wrapped copper wiring no?
I'm getting a low voltage light as well as the "jack down" light on when the jacks are up. Any suggestions as to where to start, would be greatly appreciated. Obviously the low voltage light can be troubleshot easily, but the jack down light on is a head scratcher.
I'm dealing with the same issue...but with a little different twist. I followed the same type of troubleshooting to find that the motor was burned up. I ordered a new motor and within 2 hours of driving it suffered the same fate....very costly mistake. By replacing the motor....I just cured the symptom and did not find the real cause for the issue. Lippert says that the issue is either a weak pump or a faulty pressure switch. I think the issue is that there is nothing built into their software to keep the pump from burning up....but that is another discussion. Do you have any troubleshooting advice on the next level of finding the real root cause for the problem? I went ahead and ordered a complete manifold (pump, motor, pressure switch, reservoir and valves) but don't want to put this on until I have a better understanding of what the real issue is.
I have check the leveling control module I have voltage but seams low to me 11.5 but I ma getting 14V back on the solenoid but when I start the leveling process I here the solenoid click but seconds later it kicks off what would cause this to happen
I know following the trail of 12 v is the engineering thing to do to prove your issue but couldn't you have just gone to the motor first and seen the 12 volts going in and the motor not responding? Hell yeah I'm lazy and take the path of least resistance. Lol. Great job as usual. I do like how your process proves everything but its a long winding trail typically.
The most efficient way to diagnose any problem is not to fuck with electronics the beginning starting point but start with the end point the pump then proceed from there
My slide outs will slide out but will not slide back in if I switch lines around on pistons and push out switch it will push slides back in checked all the connections and relays and are all good any ideas
I work on this type of issue recently. It involves leveling jacks. The issue there turn out to be the control module sitting the incorrect output signals. We replace the control module and everything worked fine.
I have a question, my motor bolt (there are two bolts to connect to power - like yours shows - one for jacks up, one for jacks down) is loose (the rod is loose not the nut). It works the other day but now is smoking when I am trying to put the jacks down - retract/ up works fine, but now down does not work at all. Is there a way to seal or reconnect the rod or do I have to replace the whole motor? These motors with two power sources are almost $1000. Thanks, wendy
love your videos. I'm having an issue with my level up system. about 30 days ago I used the system. today I went to turn it on at the control panel and no power to the control panel. the coach has a brand new battery that is connected and working fine. any ideas? thanks
I have this very same system in my 2012 Thor Hurricane. The problem I am having is when I depress the "On/Off" button, nothing happens. I have to keep it depressed for at least 2 or 3 minutes before it kicks on. I have new coach batteries so I don't think its a battery issue. Any suggestions?
Okay, here's what we know. If you can push the button to start it someone can be listening for it on the outside. Often times it will be exposed to the outside from underneath (that is to say not in a compartment). So, if there is a hose leak or something it's not going to leak inside the compartment bay. You may have to crawl underneath the RV to get access to it though. I'm not sure but on some of the ACE RVs it's on the driver side behind the front wheel.
Hi my husband says many thanks you are a genius but he said he has a recommendation for you get a power probe hook its awesome 12 volt tool for diagnosing stuff like this he too is a rv repairman Kern Mobile RV repair in Bakersfield California
I have a lci leveling system that the control panel inside and all the lights flash and don't stop even if I push the on off buttons I'm thinking it's the other module in the outside compartment
Hi, I have a 2010 Georgetown 378 XL. 2 of My slideouts, main and kitchen failed at the same time, I am able to open them but will not close. Also at the same time my lci leveling touch pad keeps blinking and says low voltage. I already spent $1500 in labor at 2 different rv shops and they can`t fix the problem. can anybody help please
@@MyRVWorks Howdy I'm up here at The Angels of the Winds Casino, and am stuck. I used my LCI Leveling System yesterday then today I'm trying to RETRACT the jacks an I can't seem to get them to go up. Only used two, now am stuck sitting here. I have worked all day on this can you please PM me or email an help out??
Thank you for the trouble shooting so far. The rest of the story would be the troubleshooting of the motor. Is it just the brushes? Then it's a $15 part. Is it a bearing? Not likely but a $15 part. My guess is Lippert or it's dealers want $400 for a new motor, most of which is no more needed than a control panel.
This repair was for a warranty extended service plan. So, to honor that we have to put new parts in to get the manufacturer warranty from the new motor. I have the motor in My Rainy Day box. Once that box gets full how to make a video on diagnosing farther as you are requesting. At least that's the plan but who has a time. LOL
Try $700 to $800 dollars. Brushes may be available at a motor/generator repair shop but not by the motor manufacturer. And if the brushes are toast, what do you think the commutator looks like? Best deal for a non-warranty repair is a rebuild of the entire motor at about $450.
Mine was $800 from LCI. If I was to buy it from the dealer it was $1200. Gouge us till the bank account is dry I guess. As an added bonus it is a China are pump.
Kudos! I have multiple Fluke meters also...retired 39 year journeyman electrician. I always link your videos to folks seeking top notch info on RV repairs in all the FB groups I follow.
Thanks, we were needing this info super bad tonight. Now we can sleep without falling out of bed!
You helped me diagnose my dead leveling system. I thought it was a bad motor, hooked up ext battery source and it worked. Saw lot of corrosion on the power into the solenoid and took the leads off of that terminal leaned it with wire brush and put it back together. It now runs perfectly. Thanks so much. Couldn’t get in anywhere or get mobile service for months so again thank you. Keep up the great info videos and advice.
My husband loves your videos he bought a 89 southwind Fleetwood motorhome and you have helped him so much thank you
If you're an egotist sorry I meant sadist you're approach is what you do. Thanks for the info. I got priblems with my controller need insights on how to fix that
Thanks, very helpful to show a systematic troubleshooting process and experienced explanation. Also good job on audio and video quality. My suggestion would be to add or continue with a new video, after replacing the motor. For example, what caused the motor to fail; i.e. maybe the driven pump was locked up causing the motor to overheat etc. Thanks again for sharing your good work.
Hi Russ,
Thanks for the compliment! I like your suggestion on the follow-up video. We already have that customer repaired and on his way. Another Happy Camper!!! I do still have the motor and I am collecting a box of failed components that when I get a slow day (not likely over the next few months here) I plan on dissecting on camera for a show and tell series. That may come out in a few months though. In the immediate pipeline is more electrical fault sleuthing (in post production now) an awning R&R and about 7+ Dometic refrigerator video's.
Thanks for being a part of our channel! I appreciate you!
Cheers,
Darren Koepp
This is 100% how science works.
2:53 He forms multiple hypothesis and reveals his method.
He then gathers evidence that either supports or disproves his hypothesis.
12:00 He gathers compelling evidence for the theory that the motor is not working.
He discusses his research until the end.
There are lots of statistics that can be applied to the scientific method, but none-the-less, this man has used the scientific method to diagnose his RV.
Thank you very much for your comment! We do our very best to educate the RV'er.
@@MyRVWorkswho the what the fuck?
Another great video. Thanks for passing on your knowledge to everyone.
Q
Your always a wealth of electrical knowledge! And so systematic in your diagnosis of the issue. Other RV repair guys must hate you, Lol
Hey Tracy, LOL - thanks for the comment. I don't have any real competition in my area - there are a few part-time guys that have been here for years handling mobile RV repairs (I have only been in this area about 2 years, was in Texas a few years before we escaped the heat and came up here) but I don't think they approach this market as serious a business as I have done. There area also a few shops but they hate loosing a tech out of the shop to address an on-site call. So far it has been going well. Interestingly there have been several mobile RV Techs throughout the states that have reached out to me on these comments and email asking how I have my business structured, inventory, CRM etc. I may have a new gig as a consultant eh'!
Cheers,
Darren
We are looking for recommendations for electrical RV repair in Bremerton, WA. You gave us some previously but I can’t find them now. Thanks!
You’re the greatest.
Thanks so much for sharing this video with me .
Made more sense than the others. Thank you
Great video, I’ve had my coach at the repair shop for this problem with LCI. So now I bought the $800 motor and no joy. LCI tech said it is now the control module. There went another $370 and the labor is not even included. I sure hope they will do a return at LCI for motor. If not I guess I have a spare.
How much for the spare 😂 were you able to return it?
Another great video
great video, in troubleshooting following the volts..
No issues with my LCI until today. Display panel lights up. In Manual and Auto mode, the display "says", "Grounding left front". However, no movement. Clicking on the solenoid. Soleniod, good volts all the way around. When reset and using motor as ground, 0 volt on motor side (L) and 13.22 volts on the soleniod side. But, im not getting anything on the motor when not engaged like you did in your video.
At 6:12 those test leads have PIN CUSHION wire test clips. They pierce the insulation with tiny pins in an area about the size of a pencil eraser. The pins contact the copper and just barely damage the insulation, though they do penetrate the vinyl . Not good if submersed in water or repeatedly squeezed in the same spot.. If in a constantly wet or salt air environment, the copper will eventually create resistance or a "high open" and dissolve until completely powdered. Then the problem will be hard to find unless you pull on the wire and find the corroded break inside the insulation that still looks intact. JwgK
Sure enjoyed finding this content today after you posted 3 yrs ago! Is there a way to override electrical to retract jack? Maybe bleed system while manually jacking each jack? Was given some attachment to insert in the motor but I wouldn't know which valve to retract. Not trying yet!
Our 2013 Montana has an issue with retracting jacks. The pump will extend jacks & slides work fine, just not retract jacks. I'm thinking our issue was placing several 6v lead-acid batteries which off-gased in compartment with controller causing it to malfunction. Exterior panel was replaced after overheating in hot sun. Is that common?
Thanks so much for all your wonderful educational videos.
If your multimeter was still showing 0 volts when you tested the ground (brown) and black/white (chassis) wires, what would that suggest?
Great video. I wonder. Those motors are insanely expensive now. Do you know how to repair the motor?
I was thinking, it's just a magnet with a bunch of wrapped copper wiring no?
I'm getting a low voltage light as well as the "jack down" light on when the jacks are up. Any suggestions as to where to start, would be greatly appreciated. Obviously the low voltage light can be troubleshot easily, but the jack down light on is a head scratcher.
Are the hydac valves serviceable. Our slide creeps out a couple inches while sitting or driving
I'm dealing with the same issue...but with a little different twist. I followed the same type of troubleshooting to find that the motor was burned up. I ordered a new motor and within 2 hours of driving it suffered the same fate....very costly mistake. By replacing the motor....I just cured the symptom and did not find the real cause for the issue. Lippert says that the issue is either a weak pump or a faulty pressure switch. I think the issue is that there is nothing built into their software to keep the pump from burning up....but that is another discussion.
Do you have any troubleshooting advice on the next level of finding the real root cause for the problem? I went ahead and ordered a complete manifold (pump, motor, pressure switch, reservoir and valves) but don't want to put this on until I have a better understanding of what the real issue is.
I find if the solinoid is getting hot the motor is drawing many amps ,,,, nice work ,,,
Very informative video. You always follow the electricity!
Thank you for the great information 👍👍
You are welcome! Hope it helped...
Cheers,
Darren
I have check the leveling control module I have voltage but seams low to me 11.5 but I ma getting 14V back on the solenoid but when I start the leveling process I here the solenoid click but seconds later it kicks off what would cause this to happen
I know following the trail of 12 v is the engineering thing to do to prove your issue but couldn't you have just gone to the motor first and seen the 12 volts going in and the motor not responding? Hell yeah I'm lazy and take the path of least resistance. Lol. Great job as usual. I do like how your process proves everything but its a long winding trail typically.
The most efficient way to diagnose any problem is not to fuck with electronics the beginning starting point but start with the end point the pump then proceed from there
My slide outs will slide out but will not slide back in if I switch lines around on pistons and push out switch it will push slides back in checked all the connections and relays and are all good any ideas
I work on this type of issue recently. It involves leveling jacks. The issue there turn out to be the control module sitting the incorrect output signals. We replace the control module and everything worked fine.
I have a question, my motor bolt (there are two bolts to connect to power - like yours shows - one for jacks up, one for jacks down) is loose (the rod is loose not the nut). It works the other day but now is smoking when I am trying to put the jacks down - retract/ up works fine, but now down does not work at all. Is there a way to seal or reconnect the rod or do I have to replace the whole motor? These motors with two power sources are almost $1000. Thanks, wendy
I decided to replace the motor
Great job and thank you for sharing
Good vidio
Really excellent
Always learning!
love your videos. I'm having an issue with my level up system. about 30 days ago I used the system. today I went to turn it on at the control panel and no power to the control panel. the coach has a brand new battery that is connected and working fine. any ideas? thanks
I'm having the same issue. Thinking about just replacing the control panel. Amazon sells them for $250.00 new
I have this very same system in my 2012 Thor Hurricane. The problem I am having is when I depress the "On/Off" button, nothing happens. I have to keep it depressed for at least 2 or 3 minutes before it kicks on. I have new coach batteries so I don't think its a battery issue. Any suggestions?
I have no voltage at my inside leveling pad, is there a fuse in the system?
I have a 2023 ace 29g and can not locate my pump. It is not in the battery bay or any other bay. Any idea where it is or how to find it.. thanks
Okay, here's what we know. If you can push the button to start it someone can be listening for it on the outside. Often times it will be exposed to the outside from underneath (that is to say not in a compartment). So, if there is a hose leak or something it's not going to leak inside the compartment bay. You may have to crawl underneath the RV to get access to it though. I'm not sure but on some of the ACE RVs it's on the driver side behind the front wheel.
Hi my husband says many thanks you are a genius but he said he has a recommendation for you get a power probe hook its awesome 12 volt tool for diagnosing stuff like this he too is a rv repairman Kern Mobile RV repair in Bakersfield California
Hi guys, thanks for the comment. I do feature the Power Probe 3 in this video: ruclips.net/video/Y9IwkK18mrQ/видео.html
I have a lci leveling system that the control panel inside and all the lights flash and don't stop even if I push the on off buttons I'm thinking it's the other module in the outside compartment
What kind of hand battery jump box do you have?
Excellent!
I need you I’m at camping my jack stuck down on my 1998 American Eagle
What kind of fluid is used? My tank is below half…
ATF Dexron III
It will not turn on .... what size fuse .. how many ..
Great to know you will come to me i live in nort Korea can you escpecting you to help me
Hi, I have a 2010 Georgetown 378 XL. 2 of My slideouts, main and kitchen failed at the same time, I am able to open them but will not close. Also at the same time my lci leveling touch pad keeps blinking and says low voltage. I already spent $1500 in labor at 2 different rv shops and they can`t fix the problem. can anybody help please
I’m on that same path right now with the low voltage problem
Change the brushes first before replaceing.
How did you reset the module please?
To schedule a service consult with Darren please sign up for the "1:1 Repair Consult" on our Patreon site. www.patreon.com/myrvworks
@@MyRVWorks Howdy I'm up here at The Angels of the Winds Casino, and am stuck. I used my LCI Leveling System yesterday then today I'm trying to RETRACT the jacks an I can't seem to get them to go up. Only used two, now am stuck sitting here. I have worked all day on this can you please PM me or email an help out??
A corroded wire could cause the same reaction
Jump the selemoid to the motor bro bro
You just served up a complete word salad 😅. Just jump the solenoid bro!!
Thank you for the trouble shooting so far. The rest of the story would be the troubleshooting of the motor. Is it just the brushes? Then it's a $15 part. Is it a bearing? Not likely but a $15 part. My guess is Lippert or it's dealers want $400 for a new motor, most of which is no more needed than a control panel.
This repair was for a warranty extended service plan. So, to honor that we have to put new parts in to get the manufacturer warranty from the new motor. I have the motor in My Rainy Day box. Once that box gets full how to make a video on diagnosing farther as you are requesting. At least that's the plan but who has a time. LOL
Try $700 to $800 dollars. Brushes may be available at a motor/generator repair shop but not by the motor manufacturer. And if the brushes are toast, what do you think the commutator looks like? Best deal for a non-warranty repair is a rebuild of the entire motor at about $450.
Mine was $800 from LCI. If I was to buy it from the dealer it was $1200. Gouge us till the bank account is dry I guess. As an added bonus it is a China are pump.
Yea I know your background, ha ha
Made in China.