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How to Replace Driveshaft Center Support Bearing 2000-2006 Toyota Tundra
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- Опубликовано: 15 июн 2022
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New Driveshaft Center Support Bearing from 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/ia/1ADSH00090
This video shows you how to install a driveshaft center support bearing on your 2000-2006 Toyota Tundra.
This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2000 Toyota Tundra
2001 Toyota Tundra
2002 Toyota Tundra
2003 Toyota Tundra
2004 Toyota Tundra
2005 Toyota Tundra
2006 Toyota Tundra
Tools you will need:
• Pry Bar 1aau.to/ofE/1AXAA00020
• 14mm Wrench 1aau.to/ofG/1AXAA00010
• 14mm Socket 1aau.to/otY/1AXAA00015
• Ball Joint Press
• Pliers
• 3/8 Inch Air Impact Gun
• Air Chisel 1aau.to/or/1AXAA00270
• 15/16 Inch Socket
• A Piece of Pipe (for leverage)
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/onf/1AXAA00044
• Anti-Seize Grease
• Bungee Cord
• Marker / Writing Utensil
• Center Punch 1aau.to/oa3/1AXAA00055
• Drain Pan 1aau.to/ocy/1AXAA00320
• Floor Jack 1aau.to/ogb/1AXAA00068
• Hammer 1aau.to/ofE/1AXAA00091
• Pick 1aau.to/od6/1AXAA00037
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Toyota Tundra 2000-06 First Gen: • Toyota Tundra 2000-06 ...
⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While TRQ strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. TRQ is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
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I watched this yesterday and decided to do it myself last night. '02 V8 235k suddenly developed violent shaking while Decelerating from highway speed, especially if there was some rough road to get things started. I had no squeaks or other symptoms typically described. No vibration under acceleration.
So I did this in my backyard with a dip to give me more head room. I expected the hard parts to be the yoke bolts into the diff, and the two mounting bolts for the bearing. Yoke was easy, as I should've expected since I had the rearend replaced last year. Bearing bolts were easy with an air impact wrench. Slid right out of the transmission.
Hard part ? UNIVERSAL JOINT!!! I thought I could get away with using a heavy hammer and socket, but no way. Ended up getting a loaner ball-joint press from Autozone, which had been terribly abused, but still made it easy to remove. Installing the new one was a B****! This video is not about U-joints, but suffice to say when a needle drops into the cup, you're not going to get the clip to seat - no matter how hard you crank the tool or swing the hammer. (Beware dropped needles) Once that was done, reinstall was super easy. Feels nice and tight now. Even some of the shakiness I had attributed to just an older truck subsided.
**Beware also the dust cup flange thing that remains on the shaft when the bearing is removed. It's easy to think it's part of the bearing when it's still together. I banged on it with a hammer drill like he does in the video to remove the bearing, and ended up mutilating it somewhat. When I put the bearing on the dust flange was contacting the rubber part, so I had to very meticulously reshape it. **Good to know: --- the rubber housing and frame of the bearing can be pulled off the bearing itself and put back without damage. I had to do that to get access to the dust flange, because the bearing had been pressed all the way on by the big nut, and the dust flange was hidden by the rubber casing.
Thanks to @TRQ for showing me the ropes and inspiring me!
I don't even have the problem on my truck but the video was fun to watch!😁
I’ve seen a couple of these videos and noticed his corroded the drive shaft is on these Tundras being worked on. I’ve had my ‘03 Tundra for 20 years and over 400k miles and my drive shaft still looks new. These must bring in the East cost
He failed to line up the crayon lines when reinstalling the u-joint, you can see this at 10:07
Before I got to replace my center Beaing on my truck I watched this video and everything was fantastic it was well explained video. Everything was fantastic. Thanks very much
I used a hammer to remove the yoke then pulled all the rubber off of the bearing to expose the bearing race. I then used a gear puller to remove the bearing. The gear puller had 3 jaws that didn’t get a good bite on the yoke. I’m not a big fan of smash hammer mechanics because there is some marring but luckily nothing serious. There is a time for hammering but that yoke was not shaped for it.
Thanks my friend for this very useful video. Now I feel confident about doing my own 2002 Tacoma driveshaft job. From P.Rico , your friend Edwin
It would appear the carrier bearing has hanger tabs to preset when reassembling. If that’s the case you’ve installed upside down
A good reference is your single hole, or drain hole, is always on the bottom and visible whether it has tabs or not.
My OEM carrier as well as yours, the tabs on the round outer frame that bolts it up are not center of the driveline by design, It’s slightly offset. Therefore it’s upside down if the single drain hole is not at the bottom. Your pushing the carrier further up by it being upside down. Look at time 6.43 and you’ll see the offset of the mounting tabs.
6:09 it’s a 24mm. And all of this can be done under the truck. No need to take all the way out
Thanks this video helped me do mine
So all this went splendid, also tore apart the rear differential to replace leaking seal, now that i have it all back together, the slip yoke won't slide back on to the transmission. It goes about an inch and a half then sounds almost like hitting metal. Tried each and every spline, thinking theres a keyway, but theres not. Any advice? Could the bushing behing the rear transmission seal have shifted? Can't get it back in. Please help!
Very good job good video thank you for sharing
I recently had my center carrier bearing replaced and noticed transmission fluid drip. Called the mechanic, and he said this is normal and will stop after a few days. In your experience, does this sound right?
I’m from AZ and the thing I noticed All the rust on the rear axle, unbelievable
Man! There's some slight rust under there! Lol. I have an 06 tundra 4.7. Is there supposed to be any play at all at the center support bearing? I'm having a vibration and there's no play at any of the U-joints but is at the bearing. It's not much but noticeable. And the rubber on one side is damaged / cracked.
Very nice job thank for your video.
Henry the Arizona
Great Job.
Good job
you bolted the center support bearing upside down the center hole in the middle goes towards the ground, and the to slotted holes go up towards the floor board the way you bolted it puts the bearing to high up to the floorboard making the rear half of the driveshaft run to much of an angle
So i looked at mine today after watching your video. I noticed that the driveshaft is not in perfect line, the carrier bearing has a shift to the left. Shot the driveshaft be centered perfectly or if this ok.
I see alot of ppl saying its offset or upside down, heres what i learned when i 1st started out as a mechanic
1) PUT IT ON THE SAME WAY IT CAME OFF
2) THE MANUFACTURERS NEVER MAKES ANYTHING MAKE SENSE
Come in now we have cars with the freakin' batteries behind the bumper inside the wheel wells.
I'm pretty sure he inspected the part before he took it off & started the video & seen that this specific vehicle & the design is OFFSET & upside down. So he may have it on correctly, its all according to how the manufacturer created it.
Ok so not sure if I’m just an idiot but want to make sure no one else does what I did.. in this vid there is only one u joint next to the carrier bearing.. my shaft has two.. I pressed out what I thought was the right joints and after it came apart now I see a spring, some needle bearings inside a ball joint. The spring was bent and needles are kind all over now..these are the only two joints that are serviceable as I can tell. Not sure if I can get this back together and might just by a new shaft to make things easy. Any advice would help. Thanks
What do you call the bearing in front of axle.
I believe the single hole on the carrier bearing needs to be facing down to allow water to drain out.
How long did this job take?
What u joint did you use to replace the old one?????????????
I can just tell this tundras from up north, I live in Texas and from the bottom everything looks new other than the exhaust and the busted carrier bearing
Man ...check the RUST on that rear axle assembly
The carrier bearing is upside down. The singke hole is down and if there is a arrow facing forward, utilize it too.
New bearing was shreded, failed. Anyone know why? Thx
what a pain for this model. Must be the V8 version because the regular tundra 00-06 has the middle yoke and didn't need to remove the shaft out at all.
drive shaft slipping after installing new carrier bearing support unit. what can cause this
+@user-km5jv6js4l We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I have never seen something this hard to replace just the bearing
What is the importance of having it all line up
For retain the balance of the drive shaft. You can increase your risk of vibrationa if ya just throw it all back together all willy nilly.
The 'timing' of the u-joints matter or it can bind up when the suspension travels.
The carrier bearing is not upside down. The original did not have hanger tabs and there are no hangers nearby that could be used when it is installed. Unless you want to steal one from the exhaust. And the bearing will work whether you spin it so the tabs point up or the opposite and they point down.
It is upside down!
look at the rust comin of that thing
You don’t need to remove the whole drive shaft.
I watched half of this and felt as though these instructions were very half axled...