I love this …now to really hot-rod it would be to have a self-tacking jibsheet rail ..and like you said a smaller main and it would be great..liked the upwind performance. I have sailed on Lake Erie for 20 some years .. and i don’t always have all of the sail type terms at hand either..good job ..
Well done , i want to add a jib to my Tribord 5S too. Grippers are a bit far to you, put one in the center and two rings on bothside .I think that's better.
Yep, that's exactly what I did. Attempted to shoot a video for the upgrades but I ended up breaking my tiller and ripping up my aluminum trim when launching at he dock. Update video once everything is repaired :-)
You need a cleat installed just after the centerboard for the mainsail line; That would leave your hands free for adjusting the curve on your jib sail; I'd say...
My friend and I tried our first version and it worked to an extent. I am wondering about how you moved your main sail backwards to leave more room at the bow. You mentioned that you used a lasso jens rig, but it kind of sounded like you also did something else to move the sail backwards. If you did something in addition to the lasso jens rig, can you please explain it? Do you have any tips, advice, or insight on the jens rig and how to do it properly for this specific purpose?
Just moved the gooseneck very far forward on the lower spar. For a normal jens rig, you move the gooseneck to be maybe 15 inches from the end of the spar. Here, It may around 8-10 inches.
That would also have the effect of bringing the gaff more vertical, effectively giving the sail a higher aspect ratio. You need to find a friend with a stock Sunfish for match races!
I have the same yellow boat! Im actually redoing it now i bought it about 8 years ago and started but took so long drying it out i didn't finish but im gung ho now and its going to be blue and my sail is yellow with stripes!
Awesome stuff. I'm trying to do something similar. Would you be willing to share the dimensions of your equipment (jib sail, rod used to extend the bow of the boat, etc)? Thank you!
The rod is 1/2 electrical conduit. It's a bit heavy. If I was doing this again I would use 1/2 or 3/4 inch aluminum tubing. As far as dimensions go, it was mostly guesswork based on some scale drawing I made using an architectural scale ruler. I can probably find the drawings, but you would probably be better served by making your own. Part of the fun of this project was learning about sail design from the ground up. My main reference was the book "Sailmaker's Apprentice" by Emiliano Marino. I highly suggest it. You can get a rough idea of the dimensions from the video. The tack of the jib sits about 1.5 in front of the bow. The tack extends maybe 6-12 inches past the mast, making it somewhere between a 100% and 110% jib probably (google this if you don't know what I mean). The head of the jib is maybe 6-12 inches from the top of the mast. If I was doing this again I might've made the luff longer such that it has just enough room to extend between the top of the mast and the bowsprit. Leaving it short like this gave me more room for error. The important thing with sail is that you leave a decent hollow in the leach so that it doesn't flap about in the wind. You should also round the foot and add some darts to prevent air from spilling and give it a nicer shape. I didn't do this, and instead just gave the foot a hollow as well (something I might also change if I did this again). This is all explained in fantastic detail in the book. It's a much better reference than anything you can find online, trust me. I'll work on getting the models available the 3D printed components, but again I think it's better to learn CAD and make your own, as your hardware choices might vary a bit. Something very important to point out if you make something similar: The sunfish mast is designed to rotate in the mast step. The 3D printed piece (I tighten it to the mast around 5:30 in the video) clamps to the mast and connects the bowsprit rod to the bow handle. This was a poor design choice, as it prevents the mast from rotating, and the force that would normally rotate the mast is instead trasferred to the bow handle and the mast to bowsprit connector. I can sort of get away with this because I'm using a jens rig with a stretchy lasso line, which lets top spar rotate more freely from the mast. If I was doing this again, I would have designed the mast to bowsprit rod connector to be able to rotate. Basically, instead of clamping it down like I do at 5:30, it would just be a solid ring. Then to keep it off the deck, I would have a piece that clamps to the mast and holds the piece up.
I designed it and 3D printed it myself. Even has a TPU collar to prevent slipping. I'm working on a website where I can sell my 3D files for cheap so people can print their own. I'm also considering selling stuff I print myself. Out of curiosity, what do you think is a reasonable price for this mast cleat contraption? It's printed with ASA and I can modify the design to have mounting points for up to 6 cleats. The cleats get printed separately and then bolted on (captured nut). Most likely I would just print them to order with however many cleats the person requested (1-6).
@@JohnHuffYT I am not familiar with the ASA material. Are the cleats strong enough to withstand the halyard forces in high wind conditions? I would like to tie the halyard to the mast cleat to relieve the pressure on the deck. don't know about pricing. I am always looking for things made in USA at a reasonable price. Of course, it would need to be worth your time and material. My son has a 3D printer, so I would be interested in obtaining the file or the item. Good luck with your endeavors.
@@davidj3890 ASA is pretty strong, comparible to ABS. Maybe slightly more UV resistant. I would say it's most likely strong enough to hold the halyard, though I've never tested it in that scenario. The halyard keeps the mast from falling off the boat during a capsize, so you would need some other method of tieing the mast to the hull if you did that. Personally, I've never had issues with the halyard deck hardware in high winds. I think they probably undergo more stress when hoisting the sail. I'll send you a message when I get the website up.
I bought this boat last year I think, so maybe a year or year and a half. I didn't go out much last year, but now that I have the trailer I plan to sail much more often. Other than that, I crewed for a flying junior once and a Santana 22 once. I would definitely consider myself a noob lol. Did my first solo beercan race on Wednesday. I was too nervous about the wind (20 kn) and the racing to film it sadly.
@@Jono1982 lol I've definitely been bonked a few times but nothing close to even bruising me. You learn pretty quickly when to duck down. You just have to check the wind report beforehand and only go out in wind speeds you are comfortable in, but I assure you it is not difficult to learn.
@@Jono1982 It only normally swings when you tack or jibe. For it to do it unexpectedly you have to be sailing near the wind and have the wind shift or the boat shift. It is something people really try to avoid as it can damage things.
![BRASIL vs. PERÚ [4-0] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 10](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tbyOJKXfQnI/mqdefault.jpg)
I love this …now to really hot-rod it would be to have a self-tacking jibsheet rail ..and like you said a smaller main and it would be great..liked the upwind performance. I have sailed on Lake Erie for 20 some years .. and i don’t always have all of the sail type terms at hand either..good job ..
Nice video. I was hoping to see you go wing to wing.
I did try at some point but it was very anticlimactic. Jib is just way too small compared to the mainsail.
This earns a thumbs up and a subscribe. Great work and this looks like so much fun
Good work, try dropping the main to test the jib.
Wow, very cool setup!
Awesome video, thanks for sharing !!!
Well done , i want to add a jib to my Tribord 5S too. Grippers are a bit far to you, put one in the center and two rings on bothside .I think that's better.
Yep, that's exactly what I did. Attempted to shoot a video for the upgrades but I ended up breaking my tiller and ripping up my aluminum trim when launching at he dock. Update video once everything is repaired :-)
Very creative. You definitely seemed to be speeding along at times. Where could I find the suction style jib fairlead contraptions?
It looks like they sell the vacuume separately but i don't know where to get the top part
8:10 exactly!
Try letting the jib backwind on the tack before releasing it.
You need a cleat installed just after the centerboard for the mainsail line; That would leave your hands free for adjusting the curve on your jib sail; I'd say...
Two fancy cam cleats for the jib and nothing for the mainsheet?
My friend and I tried our first version and it worked to an extent. I am wondering about how you moved your main sail backwards to leave more room at the bow. You mentioned that you used a lasso jens rig, but it kind of sounded like you also did something else to move the sail backwards. If you did something in addition to the lasso jens rig, can you please explain it? Do you have any tips, advice, or insight on the jens rig and how to do it properly for this specific purpose?
Just moved the gooseneck very far forward on the lower spar. For a normal jens rig, you move the gooseneck to be maybe 15 inches from the end of the spar. Here, It may around 8-10 inches.
That would also have the effect of bringing the gaff more vertical, effectively giving the sail a higher aspect ratio. You need to find a friend with a stock Sunfish for match races!
I have the same yellow boat! Im actually redoing it now i bought it about 8 years ago and started but took so long drying it out i didn't finish but im gung ho now and its going to be blue and my sail is yellow with stripes!
I dig it. care to share the files?
Awesome stuff. I'm trying to do something similar. Would you be willing to share the dimensions of your equipment (jib sail, rod used to extend the bow of the boat, etc)? Thank you!
The rod is 1/2 electrical conduit. It's a bit heavy. If I was doing this again I would use 1/2 or 3/4 inch aluminum tubing.
As far as dimensions go, it was mostly guesswork based on some scale drawing I made using an architectural scale ruler. I can probably find the drawings, but you would probably be better served by making your own. Part of the fun of this project was learning about sail design from the ground up. My main reference was the book "Sailmaker's Apprentice" by Emiliano Marino. I highly suggest it.
You can get a rough idea of the dimensions from the video. The tack of the jib sits about 1.5 in front of the bow. The tack extends maybe 6-12 inches past the mast, making it somewhere between a 100% and 110% jib probably (google this if you don't know what I mean). The head of the jib is maybe 6-12 inches from the top of the mast. If I was doing this again I might've made the luff longer such that it has just enough room to extend between the top of the mast and the bowsprit. Leaving it short like this gave me more room for error.
The important thing with sail is that you leave a decent hollow in the leach so that it doesn't flap about in the wind. You should also round the foot and add some darts to prevent air from spilling and give it a nicer shape. I didn't do this, and instead just gave the foot a hollow as well (something I might also change if I did this again).
This is all explained in fantastic detail in the book. It's a much better reference than anything you can find online, trust me.
I'll work on getting the models available the 3D printed components, but again I think it's better to learn CAD and make your own, as your hardware choices might vary a bit.
Something very important to point out if you make something similar: The sunfish mast is designed to rotate in the mast step. The 3D printed piece (I tighten it to the mast around 5:30 in the video) clamps to the mast and connects the bowsprit rod to the bow handle. This was a poor design choice, as it prevents the mast from rotating, and the force that would normally rotate the mast is instead trasferred to the bow handle and the mast to bowsprit connector.
I can sort of get away with this because I'm using a jens rig with a stretchy lasso line, which lets top spar rotate more freely from the mast. If I was doing this again, I would have designed the mast to bowsprit rod connector to be able to rotate. Basically, instead of clamping it down like I do at 5:30, it would just be a solid ring. Then to keep it off the deck, I would have a piece that clamps to the mast and holds the piece up.
@@JohnHuffYT Thank you so much for the very speedy and detailed response. I will certainly be using this as a solid reference for the project!
Bravo, ideas have to be tested
Hmmmm. This is something new I want. How did you come to scource these pieces??
Most things I design in Fusion 360 and 3D print using PETG. The suction cup, cam cleat, and fairlead are from Amazon. The jib I sewed myself.
Hi John, can you please tell me where I can get the orange mast cleat?
I designed it and 3D printed it myself. Even has a TPU collar to prevent slipping.
I'm working on a website where I can sell my 3D files for cheap so people can print their own. I'm also considering selling stuff I print myself. Out of curiosity, what do you think is a reasonable price for this mast cleat contraption? It's printed with ASA and I can modify the design to have mounting points for up to 6 cleats. The cleats get printed separately and then bolted on (captured nut). Most likely I would just print them to order with however many cleats the person requested (1-6).
@@JohnHuffYT I am not familiar with the ASA material. Are the cleats strong enough to withstand the halyard forces in high wind conditions? I would like to tie the halyard to the mast cleat to relieve the pressure on the deck. don't know about pricing. I am always looking for things made in USA at a reasonable price. Of course, it would need to be worth your time and material. My son has a 3D printer, so I would be interested in obtaining the file or the item. Good luck with your endeavors.
@@davidj3890 ASA is pretty strong, comparible to ABS. Maybe slightly more UV resistant.
I would say it's most likely strong enough to hold the halyard, though I've never tested it in that scenario. The halyard keeps the mast from falling off the boat during a capsize, so you would need some other method of tieing the mast to the hull if you did that. Personally, I've never had issues with the halyard deck hardware in high winds. I think they probably undergo more stress when hoisting the sail.
I'll send you a message when I get the website up.
@@JohnHuffYTI'm interested in buying one from you too!
How long have you been sailing?
I bought this boat last year I think, so maybe a year or year and a half. I didn't go out much last year, but now that I have the trailer I plan to sail much more often. Other than that, I crewed for a flying junior once and a Santana 22 once.
I would definitely consider myself a noob lol. Did my first solo beercan race on Wednesday. I was too nervous about the wind (20 kn) and the racing to film it sadly.
@@JohnHuffYT I'd love to go sailing but my biggest fear is that boom will swing violently knocking me unconscious lol
@@Jono1982 lol I've definitely been bonked a few times but nothing close to even bruising me. You learn pretty quickly when to duck down. You just have to check the wind report beforehand and only go out in wind speeds you are comfortable in, but I assure you it is not difficult to learn.
@@Jono1982 It only normally swings when you tack or jibe.
For it to do it unexpectedly you have to be sailing near the wind and have the wind shift or the boat shift.
It is something people really try to avoid as it can damage things.
Doesn' t ig have a footstrap?
Yes, I only had to use it maybe once or twice on this sail because the winds were pretty low.
What lake is that?
Lake Natoma near Folsom, CA