DIY Dry Pour Concrete Slab - Part 3 - Building a Lowes Shed Kit on DIY Dry Pour Concrete Slab
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
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I went back to your last video when you mentioned you thought the anchors holes drilled a bit too easily, and I didn't see how much you watered it after the initial mist then shower, but more and more people experimenting with dry pour are finding that keeping the slab moist for at least a week is critical to the strength of the finished slab, actually whether dry pour or wet mix. It's called "moist curing." A guy doing very interesting work is Hank Baugh, as he's actually comparing dry vs wet and having different "cores" tested for their compressive strength. (See his testing video at ruclips.net/video/UiundCjcgYA/видео.html )
But before that others have also said keeping the slab moist is critical, some lay burlap and towels over it, watering daily to keep it wet. In any case, it's not necessarily too late unless you sealed the concrete, try making a puddle and seeing if it soaks in. If it does, give it more. It could not hurt, it might help.
In any case, thanks for sharing your process and project. With the tools, equipment, and experience you have at your disposal, the dry pour method is not "aimed" at you; you might as well do wet mix, but see that video about the "moist cure." Thx
I watered daily for a couple weeks. I definitely think it needs at least a month to cure.
Slab should be watered for min 5 days. Full.cur3 is 28 days. Nails are better than screws as they won't shear/break. Learned that part the hard way. Good video and any project has points to improve on. Job well done.
Where I live, that shed with a concrete foundation would raise your homeowners insurance, as a permanent structure. If you use skids as a foundation it is considered a temporary structure and will not raise your insurance premium.
Hmm - good to know! I don’t think that’s a thing here but I’ll have to look into it.
Screws are more brittle than nails and can sheer under load or during a storm.
I didn’t know that. Thank you. Thankfully we don’t get much in the way of storms here.
Some folks I saw on youtube let the dry-pour concrete cure for about 30 days before anchoring anything to it. I think you'll be okay because of where your shed is situated. I would be concerned if it was located in the middle of your yard. However, since you have it in an enclosed space right next to your home, you'll have less wind resistance.
I totally agree!
6:25 why didn't you seperate the frame from the bare concrete? Moist from the concrete will migrate up into your construction and create a enviroment for mold!?
I used treated lumber for the bottoms of the frame, and if there is no moisture there really is t a worry for mold. The siding over laps the concrete a couple inches making it almost impossible for water to travel up hill to the actual level of the floor.
You'd have the same issue with wet pour, if not watered longer, and given longer to cure. The area was shaded with minimal direct sunlight, so the cure time will be longer.
Can you share which storage building you used?
Looks like it’s discontinued, but it was a standard 12’x8’ shed and the only one they had with the window like that.
I would suggest adding gutters to your shed -- that fence and your foundation is going to have a lot water during a heavy rain.
First real rain is happening today. Definitely gonna pay attention to what it does to the ground. Was planning on putting down a bunch of river rock..
Great video. I like you, prefer to over engineer as additional precaution and for solid build. I did notice you chose not to use any damp proof membrane under the concrete base slap to prevent possibility of rising damp, although you could take precautions against damp in the final floor finish.
Not something I thought of. My hope was the gravel base would keep any moisture from pulling up into the pad. Definitely something I’ll look into on my next pour.
I love that you documented this full-fledged "experiment" for us to learn from!
Is that crack starting from the drilled hole at 7:16 significant? It looks like it might have traveled all the way to the edge of the slab.
Not significant, but it definitely traveled. Main reason I wouldn’t do dry pour again. It was extremely soft/easy to drill through.
I would put gutters on it to control water going between the house and shed and dumping water on your neighbors property.That’s going to be a lot of water in between shed and house that may cause foundation issues.I would have just built a lean off the house but everybody has their on way of doing things looks good though hope your neighbors don’t complain hate to see you have to move it.Good video .
Neighbors are awesome. Def looking at some guttering and maybe some French drains to move water away from it..
his slab and his neighbors slab getting all that drainage
What are the dimensions or size of the shed?
It’s a 12x8
Actual length is 3 inches short though, so 11’9” x 8’
I don’t think your sifting tactic is actually worth doing. If you have pits you need more concrete and more screeing. Putting powder on top just makes it look good, but it’s weak.
I'm in northern Illinois and after watching all 3 videos I could see how my climate would call for a much different shed foundation. Maybe 3 concrete posts with anchors on each side, going down 4', then attaching a treated 4x4 to use as the concrete form and as a base for the walls. I just wish you would have delved a little further into your reasoning for saying you wouldn't do another dry pour.
Just feel the dry pour did not set up as solid as a traditional pour.
We used to live in Kansas, when I built my sheds there I always built them with a 2x8 frame floors supported by concrete blocks.
The longer the concrete sets the harder it will get just from the moisture in the ground. Your slab and building looks nice.
Nobody says a dry pour will,produce the same as a wet pour but its a lot cheaper out of pocket than paying for delivered wet concrete and getting the help required . since its just a shed for storage I cant see why this would not last a long time for you.
I am in the middle of a similar slab I my yard at the moment.Dry pour .
Sorry also great video of a,guy with a concrete tester. Getting over 3000 psi from.dry pour and over 4000 psi wet pour so,works for me! For a,garden storage shed.
I believe you have to leave so much space between home and any other building. I think the fire department would make you remove that shed.
Maybe. It’s pretty close for sure. Burn that bridge if we have to.. pun intended. 😂
It's 3 ft I believe in most states. Looks good👍
Fire Department can not make you do anything... The local building inspector can....
DIY Shed with a Kit lol...not much of DIY is it?
Unfortunately cheaper than buying the lumber no a days.
gonna need to address the front concrete extending out to far in the front your gonna have a major issue with water a it has no slope and is gonna set on the surface and eventually cause rot or water damage
I did. Came up with a pretty good solution I think. Will be on the follow up video for the shed and pad.
It's crazy how when you started you had nothing but dirt.... then when the shed was all done you had grass
You should see it now..
@@chrisbuildsitall Can't wait
Curious what city you live in and if a permit was required
Check your county building codes. In my county anything under 160 sqft does not require a permit.
There may be a major issue of that shed being that close to the fence -- add a gutter to avoid issues with the city and your neighbor.
This isnt a sentra
No it’s not. lol.