32 Ford Part 5. Rear Suspension and New Parts!
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- Опубликовано: 23 сен 2022
- In this video we go over some new parts for the build, fabricate some fish plates for the rear frame horns and install the rear suspension with a 39 Ford front spring.
To support this channel please check out www.lgspeedkustom.com/shop
Thanks for watching! 
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I was taught using radiused or diamond shaped fishplates gives you more linear weld therefore giving the plate more support. Never new about the cat tails but was taught not to stop on a “hard” corner but to weld past or around it.
It’s all with the same goal in mind to minimize stress points and the chance of cracks.
Hey, you found something Doris cares about, lol! She was really getting after it with the shipping paper 😄😄😄
She’s ridiculous haha
Your u tube channel is without a doubt my favorite. I wait for it every week! But, Doris doesn’t care🐕🐕
Thanks. That means a lot! Appreciate the support, and thanks for watching!
GOOD JOB!!! It's a pleasure to watch it!!!
Cool, much appreciated
Its coming together nicely! Cant wait to see the Ardun build....those are the coolest looking hotrod motors ever in my opinion!
They definitely make a statement!
Greetings from Oklahoma! Just came across your channel on my search for ideas and knowledge for hopefully my '32 Tudor build. I look forward to seeing more of your content soon! I love the matte black Sedan with the whitewalls. That is very similar to the vision in my head for mine. Especially love the windshield visor!!! Subscribed and notified.
Awesome! Thanks for the sub! Hopefully my videos will give you some great ideas and inspiration. Cheers
Thanks for the new content!! I upgraded to a miller 211 230v or 110v and it's absolutely amazing I normally run .023 wire in it but u can load .30 wire in it a do much heavier plate and it handles it no problem!! Good job on the build love the progress
Cool! They’re great welders! Thanks for watching
Looks like Christmas came early for you!
Haha and Gordie. Mostly Gordie.
I appreciated your Simpsons reference.
Haha I made a Simpsons reference?
@@LGKustoms Yep. You said “rack and peanut steering”, which is from the episode where Danny DeVito played Homer’s industrialist brother. Homer designed a car for his brother’s company. I laughed out loud when you said it.
@@Weldangrind haha I know the episode, but didn’t realize they called it Rack and Peanut. I used to work with a guy who always called it Rack and Peanut.
I agree I did that on 18 wheelers not on this small stuff I did this stuff for 30 years
good progress 😊😊
Note that carriage bolts, regardless on how much they are torqued up, will never transfer shear loads like a rivet. Rivets completely fill the hole when they are upset. Just a heads up if you find the frame not to be up to your torsional stiffness standards. Hope that's helpful
Cool. Thanks for pointing that out.
Looks like Christmas comes early, again, eh Lee?
Hi I just gave a shout out to Matt from iron trap garage to let him know that you were installing a blown ardon engine in a 32 as you might know he's waiting for his ardon engine to come back from the machine shop cool you're doing first
That’s cool! Thanks!
I remember years ago I worked at an auto manufacturer and the prototype welded up rear subframes were cracking in a rig test. They added a weld runout off the joint along the parent metal and it stopped the cracking problem. So there is something in it. Your axle brackets could probably be moved inboard a bit to get the ideal dimension on the spring mounts. You might also be able to cheat the axle rearwards a bit too (as you alluded). In the stock application the banjo only just clears the rolled up front edge of the rear crossmember. The axle on my 32 is the opposite. It just touches the crossmember on full bump. I have a torque tube. I should have gone 1/4" shorter when I shortened it. Don't want to come across as a know it all but the 36 bones should not be relied on alone to support the axle. Some sort of torque reaction rod ought to be added to help them resist bending. You probably already know that, but other people might not. All the best, Mart in England.
Interesting on the subframe prototype.
In regards to the spring being tight, and option my friend Bruce mentioned was making the shackles a bit longer.
As for the 36 bones, I am aware that they should be run with a torque arm to replicate the torque tube. That being said, I probably won’t, as this car has a bone stock Flathead and will run bias ply tires. I’ll take the gamble haha. If it breaks, we’ll fix it.
There was a real interesting thread on the HAMB several years ago, a guy was asking for photo proof of 36 bones actually bending from not running a torque arm. Not “a friend of a friend” or an “old guy up the street once said” but actual photo proof from someone who had it happen to them. And nobody could provide anything haha.
@@LGKustoms I tend to do the same myself, follow my gut instinct but be prepared to fix it if it goes wrong. I think having the ends closing to a single point is a big help. Splitting them apart increases the bending tremendously. Long shackles are ok if not too long. I used the longer 41 shackles on my roadster for the same reason. I did not detect any negative effect from the longet shackles. Much longer than that, though and you can effect the handling. Nice chatting with you. I'm hamb member no 28 btw and my handle is Mart.
Sounds like Speedway could do well adding a store in Canada.
Maybe? There is a So-Cal Speed Shop in Canada and I’m quite happy about that!
Theres some good info about the uni steer on the canadian rodder site you might be interested in.
Cool, thanks.
..hi Lee...does the red plug wires and fuel line mean you're leaving the 32 orange?....I'll withhold judgement until I see the finished car.....
There will be no orange left on this car! 🍊
You don’t need that cat tail , the rounded edge is the only thing you need on fish plates
I don’t think they’re necessary in this application either, but if the person signing off on my inspection wants them there, then I’m gonna put them there! Haha
Where did Gordy find that engine? Super cool engine.
I’m not sure to be honest. He’s had it several years.
Good to know about the shipping, UPS and FedEx have been absolutely shafting us far to long and customer service is awful.
Fed Ex I don’t have an issue with, but I will or accept deliveries from UPS.
If ups is shipping you something you can select “self broker” but then you have to pick it up at their depot.
@@AndyGeesGarage I’ve done that before and they held my package for 45 days after I cleared it.
@@LGKustoms that sounds like a hostage situation lol.
Here in Edmonton their pickup is only open weird hours, something like 9-11 1-3:45
I think we can agree that they’re awful
I wonder if there is someone in Edmonton that’s offering a similar service to the one you’re using.
@@AndyGeesGarage business opportunity! You do have that new Van!
150 YEARS AS A MACHINIST😂
He’s well experienced!
@32:05 why not just rotate the curved spring 90º...?
Like turn it around backwards? It wouldn’t fit back in the crossmember. The crossmember is curved to match the spring.
But the 37-40 front spring is skinny enough to fit inside the crossmember despite it being curved.
@@LGKustoms oh sorry I see - you've also used the curved crossmember.
Orange 🍊 things are for rebar poking up our of a slab
Haha good to know!
It is for gear shift lever when the knob is off so you don't poke you eye out
Love the content, please for f'sake edit some music over the grinder, air tools and impact. Ear buds and sharp noises aren't friends. Cool cars and still enjoy the builds!
What? 👂
Not to be a pain ,wear your safety glasses man !
I usually do, I’m assuming there was a point I wasn’t?
dude, wear hearing protection.