As a chemist, with no training in explosives, its fascinating to see people read actual papers and literature, improving on what they read. I dont make explosives, or really care about explosions, but the chemistry is awesome, and its cool to see people experimenting. Its the heart of science! That being said, I have a few questions: - Why would TPA cause fires (is TPA acting as an oxidizer, fuel or both)? - Why would the carbonates not increase fire chance as it is acting as mostly an oxidizer? - And when you compact the substrate, why does it not form compact ash lile the TPA mixture, as seen in the data presented by the military? Thanks!
Those are awesome questions. -TPA is normally an unreacted passenger in these reactions. The real reaction is between the sugar and potassium chlorate with magnesium carbonate there to slow it down. The TPA gets dispersed and normally doesn’t react. TPA is chosen as a passenger because of its fairly inert nature but also its high optical density aka it reflects visible spectrum white light and can obscure vision in lower concentrations than most dispersible powders. In other words if I dispersed the same mass of corn starch, or flour it would not obscure vision anywhere near the degree of TPA. Here’s an excerpt from a research article [[[Terephthalic acid is a combustible material that, in dust form, has a published lower explosive limit of 50 g/m' for the pure material. Other combustible solids, vapors, and gases are formed as a result of the pyrotechnic dissemination process. Sandia performed testing to determine the lower explosive limit of the pyrotechni-cally disseminated TPA smoke which included all the combustible reaction products. Test results indicated the LEL to be 90 g/m'.]]] this means that when the TPA is dispersed outside of the canister it is in a concentration greater than or equal to that LEL-lower explosive limit therefore it ignites if there is an ignition source. The great thing about that silicone valve is that it separates the ignition source(the burning composition inside the device) from the powder that is immediately outside of the nozzle is in concentration above its LEL. As the powder/smoke spreads out its concentration drops below the LEL meaning it is no longer combustible. This is what “confines” the explosion to just a “flare up” -the combustion of carbonates is a decomposition reaction yielding co2, not oxygen. The carbonates slow the reaction both by absorbing a shitload of heat energy to initiate the decomposition, and also by creating co2 at the reaction site further slowing the burn. -when you compact the composition it is WITHOUT the shitty PVA binder the military used. So it is an extremely efficient burn. There is surprisingly VERY little ash. If I were to use a binder there would be more of an ash matrix. In fact, Good questions Okloveyoubye
@@InventionIncarnate I just wanted to say, this is one of those channels that I watched the video all the way through, being impressed the entire time with the thoughtfulness of the process. I am now subbed, and notifications are set! One thing I would be curious about, is "turning into the skid" with regards to the noise capabilities of the silicone endcap/valve. Would there be a methodology to focus and enhance the noise, like a whistle? Aside from a concealing smoke, a loud whistle like on some fireworks would also create confusion and hinder radio communications....on the paintball/airsoft field.
Found one from 2 years ago from a Brit!! Search for: Making Whistle Rocket Fuel How to make Potassium Benzoate Whistle Fuel for Firework Whistle Rockets...........That being said, I don't know if this mix in itself would render the device as flammable or otherwise boomy or dangerous.
@@rhino67 funny you should ask…bwahaha. The M-18 PDF outlines materials and cost for approximately 36. I’d run through the whole process making just 1 first to work out kinks. Then follow those printable instructions doing 5-10 at a time in waves.
All your little "don't do this" moments are teaching me why we can always tell who the b makers are. They are missing fingers and eyebrows. I love it. You are the right kind of special.
@@PatrickKniesler Honestly, I hope he submitted a Good Faith letter/email to the FBI informing them of his path of expertise It just takes one Russian Recruited Teenager or whatever to be somewhat nearby his home to ruin his day or more... Best to be up front with bobombamaking 😂
Highest value per video hands down. I'm not sure if you're actually documenting this process anywhere else but man... You've really done a lot of work for peanuts. so from the peanut gallery, just know that we appreciate your work brother!
That's awesome. Now we just need a 37mm version, aka the civilian legal boop tube. I'm already running ideas through my head on how one would make it work.
Same idea, you'd just need a separate propellant canister set up like a firework mortar with a secondary fuze to light the smoke. Check out how a firework mortar is built, but instead of using rice husks and black powder, you can use this mixture instead
I love how one of the best improvements to this device literally came out of a fart joke. Innovation always coming from messing around and doing unexpected stuff.
got my kit a few weeks ago, it has everything and i will definitely buy more, your kits are better than skylighter and are actually available. been subbed for a long time now, keep it up, and you will blow up😮, no pun
Great Job! I hope that in the future you will find a way to make colored smoke version, and as someone mentioned a 37mm version. Looking forward to more great content from you,
I used to make DiY fireworks displays, finding and sharpening a high carbon steel tube to punch holes in fuses is one of the best investments you can make if you plan on doing it often
THANK YOU.... Again for outstanding content.... WE THE PEOPLE appreciate your hard work and dedication to your amazing projects....WE THE PEOPLE may have to use these projects for the possibility of up coming struggle (s ).... LOVE you like a Brother.....😊😊😊😊
If you are worried about the glue soaking into the fuse you can always use spray shellac first. Woodworkers finishing mantra: Shellac sticks to everything and everything sticks to shellac.
I love this channel, i hit that like button, subscribed and shared it with my friends. This is so cool, i can't wait to make some. I wonder tho, how long will they last being on the shelf sitting until you are ready to use them.
I really love the development of this - so much great work on your part. I’m just thinking that the ignition system here seems a bit fragile. Will these hold up bouncing around inside a pouch? I’m thinking about how the silicon valve could be incorporated into the tiki torch design using the m203 spoon - striker and a 209 primer. The gr-- fuse would have to occupy the center of the device, but what if you drilled the hole off center and capped it with the silicon? 🤔
I wonder if you could also get around the fragility by assembling the "can" in the other direction and have the length of fuse that currently runs across the outside of the (currently bottom) epoxy layer embedded inside that epoxy layer, as described below. But that causes more problems than it solves. I'd actually just assemble it as shown, and then mold epoxy/ silicone/ clay or something else over the fuse. Alternatively, I wonder if you can assemble in the direction shown, but incorporate the fuse when you pour the bottom layer of epoxy. You'd need to first encase the fuse in something (epoxy? clay?); And you'd need to cut two notches into the bottom of the cardboard tube that you'd stick the fuse through; Once you've suck the fuse through, you need to cover the notches from the outside with silicone or some other easily removable material so that the epoxy can be properly poured. And only apply the silicone to the striker end of the fuse _after_ you've put the shrink wrap cap on. And when you pour the epoxy layer, you have to make sure that the inside end of the fuse stands up, so that you can then lay it across top of the epoxy. ...that's 5 times as much effort as just smearing some clay over it, with the only benefit being that the side looks more professional because it's flush. Here's how you'd assemble the can the other way around (and its problems): Start with the silicone layer as the bottom; (I don't know how you'd get the mesh incorporated into it.) Pour the epoxy onto the silicone (in order to make the hole in this epoxy, you may need to include some stubby core placeholder sticking out of the silicone - or just an olive sized blob of silicone that you drop onto the flattened silicone layer); Pack the smoke mixture and drill the core out (or just pack the smoke mixture around with an old pen or similar as a core that you pull out once it's packed); Fill the core hole with sodium bicarbonate; Make a trench indentation across the top of the smoke mixture, assemble the whole fuse setup, lay the inside end of the fuse into the trench (or stick it into the smoke powder during packing), and suspend the outside part of the fuse over the trench. The trench is mainly there to allow for enough epoxy thickness between the outside part of the fuse and the powder. Pour epoxy over the powder and around the fuse parts. (The problem with this last epoxy pour is that there's no point where you're going to drill anyways and can afford to have bubbles. You may need to pour it in two steps; a first one that covers all of the powder, and a second one that ensures that you get a certain bubble-free thickness. Don't forget to cut the silicone.
I love the fart sound idea. I think it needs more than a slit. To be reliable, the silicone needs a bit of a protrusion, like lips (think: blowing a raspberry), or like the valve of a whoopee cushion, only thicker.
Might I suggest a thrower device for extra dispersal? Very similar to a tennis ball thrower, this would be a plastic “arm” to grip an throw a smoke device extra distance so as to maximize the effected area. Hope this helps.
if you want to launch something like this then it's better to just use a grenade launcher design. Something like the Thumper is incredibly simple and reliable, though if you wanted to avoid using actual powder for the launch you could go for a pnuematic instead.
it might help you to rethink your title card / video preview image of your videos since I overlooked the notification from my other notifications though i enjoy the content and hope you keep growing and improving
@@InventionIncarnate I'd at least suggest trying that, and yeah forgot that it was called thumbnail though don't feel the need to lose your personal style chasing clicks
@@yigarok look around my channel. I’ve got yellow and red formulas. I’m working on a master video that will include every color, but I’m dealing with some financially crippling censorship issues with yt rn
Can't you put mold release wax on a 5/8 pvc pipe and pour the epoxy around it? Seems like it would save time and mess. You can also buy baling wire for the fuse. Wrap it around the fuse and add a drop of CA glue on it to keep it from pulling through. It's how we did it for det cord.
It is really amazing. My little girl lived the Barbie doll episode. I gad to turn the volume down when Ken dropped the F bomb. Anyways she was asking me if I could make colord smoke like the fireworks and make smoke rockets. Too smart for a seven year old. Still I was on a mission as I feel that colored smoke rickets and flares would be great in an oh shit situation when You need to get noticed. Sometimes chem ligts are not enough. We used dies in in addition to strobes in the Navy though I am no longer in the ocean often since moving to New Mexico. Anything that gets me noticed when needing rescue or tripwire early warning systems that let you hear or see a potential threat is great. Oh yeah and my daughter says daytime fireworks.
If you’re looking to purchase his pull string igniter KIT, do it . I made the the wife help me with the Venmo deal because I don’t normally do that and I made the purchase. Was shipped fast and I got exactly what I wanted, came in a pretty pink with cactus bag again wife definitely thought it was another one of her packages. Thank you again this is an ohio winter blues package date wife and I are going to try together and make some smoke why not, thanks for making these I’ll definitely be making more purchases moving forward. Fargo.
37:30 I personally don't trust crimp rings. Just ever so slightly too little pressure and it can slip; whereas if a knot is tied in the proper pattern it will work (even if you don't tighten it enough or whatever). Just a proper bowline knot would even allow you to omit the metal pull ring. Even better, make the cord loop large enough that you can pull it over the top so that it runs once all the way around it (with enough extra length to get a gloved finger under it). Then tape down about half of that loop on the knot side. In order to ignite, you have to pull the loop over the top again; just pulling from the non-taped side won't do anything. This fact and the string usually being flush against the can will offer protection from it getting snagged on something.
Because of that ridiculous segment, this video has 2x more views than the average of all 111 of my prior videos. 90% due to YT recommendations. This is SO F_Cked Leave a supportive woke comment here to further boost (we know it’s s@rcastic, but the @lgo doesn’t [yet]) Check out the video analytics: www.imghippo.com/i/dG5e71727887702.png.
In my first edit of video I was going to say “someone patent this before a big company steals it and throw me some money if it gets bought out,” I don’t have 10k to file. I set up a go fund me for future patents though-which I forgot to add to description, but will now
I don't think you can patent something that was already published. The other issue being, that it can be costly to defend one's patent when some big corp wants to steal it.
@@_muody Actually the publishing date of this video is now the prior date for which he can get a patent. He has not jeopardized himself (in court). The reality is most companies will settle. He will see money just not billions.
@@TheMrHotwheels yes, I’m working on red now, however, I noticed that the dye I bought had fillers in it for bulking and anti cake, it’s throwing off my formulas the supplier of the red dye-fireworks cookbook, has no idea what’s in it. So I’m going to have to waste a few lbs of dye perfecting a formula
Here’s what this formula looks like on thermal. www.imghippo.com/i/q61Rf1728137043.jpg I took that two nights ago. I’ve been testing powdered brass additive without significant success so far. My problem is the methods I’ve researched like powdered brass flakes launched via the m76, use an explosive delivery. There are white and red phosphorus obscurants, also exploding, and nano-fibers which are impossible for me to obtain. There must be a way to chemically dissipate an IR/thermal opaque material. You got any ideas?
Could you make the canister out of just about any kind of tube? Like PVC or HDPE? Heck even exhaust or aluminum tubing? Thinking of a LARPing scenario where things might get wet. Sure you could paint the cardboard tube, but why not take the extra precaution in those situations and make the tube out of something water proof.
Question: Does the TPA formula leave ash in the container?? If not, cant it just be started from the top? (Does it even need to be hollowed out if not?) Have never built one.
Came across this formula for a red smoke. Thoughts? TPA-Based Red Smoke Formula: • Terephthalic Acid (TPA): 40-45% (fuel) • Potassium Chlorate (KCIO₃): 30-35% (oxidizer) • Red Dye (Solvent Red 24 or a similar dye): 15-20% (colorant) • Binder/Chlorine Donor (PVC or Parlon): 5-10%
I do think sucrose is missing. Probably because TPA is the supposed fuel for this formula. I might try the formula from Joe Domanico. Great video by the way! How does the fuse hold up for long term storage? I live in a very humid environment if, I made a batch how long could I expect them to store for?
Could you get me some measurements of all your lengths of tube, fuse, diameter of body etc.? I know a draftsman that might be able to design. Some cutting jigs and a press with the center hole that could be 3d printed.
As a chemist, with no training in explosives, its fascinating to see people read actual papers and literature, improving on what they read. I dont make explosives, or really care about explosions, but the chemistry is awesome, and its cool to see people experimenting. Its the heart of science!
That being said, I have a few questions:
- Why would TPA cause fires (is TPA acting as an oxidizer, fuel or both)?
- Why would the carbonates not increase fire chance as it is acting as mostly an oxidizer?
- And when you compact the substrate, why does it not form compact ash lile the TPA mixture, as seen in the data presented by the military?
Thanks!
Those are awesome questions.
-TPA is normally an unreacted passenger in these reactions. The real reaction is between the sugar and potassium chlorate with magnesium carbonate there to slow it down. The TPA gets dispersed and normally doesn’t react. TPA is chosen as a passenger because of its fairly inert nature but also its high optical density aka it reflects visible spectrum white light and can obscure vision in lower concentrations than most dispersible powders. In other words if I dispersed the same mass of corn starch, or flour it would not obscure vision anywhere near the degree of TPA.
Here’s an excerpt from a research article [[[Terephthalic acid is a combustible material that, in dust form, has a published lower explosive limit of 50 g/m' for the pure material. Other combustible solids, vapors, and gases are formed as a result of the pyrotechnic
dissemination process. Sandia performed testing to determine the lower explosive limit of the pyrotechni-cally disseminated TPA smoke which included all the
combustible reaction products.
Test results indicated
the LEL to be 90 g/m'.]]] this means that when the TPA is dispersed outside of the canister it is in a concentration greater than or equal to that LEL-lower explosive limit therefore it ignites if there is an ignition source. The great thing about that silicone valve is that it separates the ignition source(the burning composition inside the device) from the powder that is immediately outside of the nozzle is in concentration above its LEL. As the powder/smoke spreads out its concentration drops below the LEL meaning it is no longer combustible. This is what “confines” the explosion to just a “flare up”
-the combustion of carbonates is a decomposition reaction yielding co2, not oxygen. The carbonates slow the reaction both by absorbing a shitload of heat energy to initiate the decomposition, and also by creating co2 at the reaction site further slowing the burn.
-when you compact the composition it is WITHOUT the shitty PVA binder the military used. So it is an extremely efficient burn. There is surprisingly VERY little ash. If I were to use a binder there would be more of an ash matrix. In fact,
Good questions
Okloveyoubye
@@InventionIncarnate I just wanted to say, this is one of those channels that I watched the video all the way through, being impressed the entire time with the thoughtfulness of the process. I am now subbed, and notifications are set! One thing I would be curious about, is "turning into the skid" with regards to the noise capabilities of the silicone endcap/valve. Would there be a methodology to focus and enhance the noise, like a whistle? Aside from a concealing smoke, a loud whistle like on some fireworks would also create confusion and hinder radio communications....on the paintball/airsoft field.
Found one from 2 years ago from a Brit!! Search for: Making Whistle Rocket Fuel How to make Potassium Benzoate Whistle Fuel for Firework Whistle Rockets...........That being said, I don't know if this mix in itself would render the device as flammable or otherwise boomy or dangerous.
Bro are there any tips or tricks to doing these say 10 or 20 at a time?
@@rhino67 funny you should ask…bwahaha. The M-18 PDF outlines materials and cost for approximately 36. I’d run through the whole process making just 1 first to work out kinks. Then follow those printable instructions doing 5-10 at a time in waves.
All your little "don't do this" moments are teaching me why we can always tell who the b makers are. They are missing fingers and eyebrows. I love it. You are the right kind of special.
@@PatrickKniesler hey now...
I don't make B and still have eye brows... On the other point..... No comment
@@weaponeer Kurt Saxon is that you?
@@PatrickKniesler Honestly, I hope he submitted a Good Faith letter/email to the FBI informing them of his path of expertise
It just takes one Russian Recruited Teenager or whatever to be somewhat nearby his home to ruin his day or more... Best to be up front with bobombamaking 😂
B makers? Say novice pyro technician
@@TheLifeOfKanesmoke bombs aren't bombs they are just incense devices . A flare isn't a bomb is it? How about a smoke machine from eBay?
Highest value per video hands down. I'm not sure if you're actually documenting this process anywhere else but man... You've really done a lot of work for peanuts. so from the peanut gallery, just know that we appreciate your work brother!
@@PropGuru702 thank you, I appreciate that
@@InventionIncarnate of course!
I made these, I lit one off and my house disappeared. It was a no wind evening and it lingered around for a while. Genius smoke grenades!
have you found your house? it's been 12 days now
@@probablyhiding lol
That's awesome. Now we just need a 37mm version, aka the civilian legal boop tube. I'm already running ideas through my head on how one would make it work.
Same idea, you'd just need a separate propellant canister set up like a firework mortar with a secondary fuze to light the smoke. Check out how a firework mortar is built, but instead of using rice husks and black powder, you can use this mixture instead
I love how one of the best improvements to this device literally came out of a fart joke. Innovation always coming from messing around and doing unexpected stuff.
@@rotors_taker_0h right!? It was supposed to be a joke!
Pull string igniter kit order just arrived in the mail today. Props for the fast shipping. Fun weekend ahead!
Lol man's pushing the silicon valve requirement so we all have Queef Grenades
Bwahaha! The minor detail I left out.
Notice the intro was muted and voiced over
These look like a great tool for photoshoots. Much more cost effective than the EG ones other photographers use
I bought an ignition kit on his website and it works great!
Thanks man!
This is awesome, I love being along for the ride of you developing these!
got my kit a few weeks ago, it has everything and i will definitely buy more, your kits are better than skylighter and are actually available. been subbed for a long time now, keep it up, and you will blow up😮, no pun
You've really out-done yourself. Good work, fren! Thank you for your efforts.
Great Job! I hope that in the future you will find a way to make colored smoke version, and as someone mentioned a 37mm version. Looking forward to more great content from you,
Thank you so much I’m definitely making these for training and prepping
Finally a use for all my old Pocket kitties🐈⬛🐈⬛
I used to make DiY fireworks displays, finding and sharpening a high carbon steel tube to punch holes in fuses is one of the best investments you can make if you plan on doing it often
Ok I’ve been waiting and watching knowing eventually I want to buy your kits, I think it’s time to invest, your smoke devices are pretty cool.
@@fargoalspach557 I think that is a great idea! (Of course I would)
THANK YOU.... Again for outstanding content.... WE THE PEOPLE appreciate your hard work and dedication to your amazing projects....WE THE PEOPLE may have to use these projects for the possibility of up coming struggle (s ).... LOVE you like a Brother.....😊😊😊😊
9:41 it's the forbidden fleshlite
If you are worried about the glue soaking into the fuse you can always use spray shellac first.
Woodworkers finishing mantra: Shellac sticks to everything and everything sticks to shellac.
FINALLY SOMEONE MADE A USEFUL SMOKE GRENADE!!! ❤
So many juicy details! Need thick CA gel!
Video production on this one is EXCELLENT. ht🤙🇺🇸
You need patents and try to get a government contract. America needs you bro
not sure where you've been at the last few years, but the gooberment is the enemy....
I love this channel, i hit that like button, subscribed and shared it with my friends. This is so cool, i can't wait to make some. I wonder tho, how long will they last being on the shelf sitting until you are ready to use them.
I believe watching from the very beginning great job on the videos and all the experimentation
The humming is hilarious! What if you vented them so they scream or loud whistle as distraction? Just a thought.
You realy deserve more visibility, I love your content !
This is going to be crazy good in Airsoft outdoor matches
You had me at "fixed holes for exit orifices."
I really love the development of this - so much great work on your part.
I’m just thinking that the ignition system here seems a bit fragile. Will these hold up bouncing around inside a pouch? I’m thinking about how the silicon valve could be incorporated into the tiki torch design using the m203 spoon - striker and a 209 primer. The gr-- fuse would have to occupy the center of the device, but what if you drilled the hole off center and capped it with the silicon? 🤔
Pinning this for testing
@@AndrewWisler Testing Mr. Wisler’s Suggestion #shorts
ruclips.net/user/shortsjs3ZEHOWElQ?feature=share
I wonder if you could also get around the fragility by assembling the "can" in the other direction and have the length of fuse that currently runs across the outside of the (currently bottom) epoxy layer embedded inside that epoxy layer, as described below. But that causes more problems than it solves.
I'd actually just assemble it as shown, and then mold epoxy/ silicone/ clay or something else over the fuse.
Alternatively, I wonder if you can assemble in the direction shown, but incorporate the fuse when you pour the bottom layer of epoxy.
You'd need to first encase the fuse in something (epoxy? clay?);
And you'd need to cut two notches into the bottom of the cardboard tube that you'd stick the fuse through;
Once you've suck the fuse through, you need to cover the notches from the outside with silicone or some other easily removable material so that the epoxy can be properly poured. And only apply the silicone to the striker end of the fuse _after_ you've put the shrink wrap cap on.
And when you pour the epoxy layer, you have to make sure that the inside end of the fuse stands up, so that you can then lay it across top of the epoxy.
...that's 5 times as much effort as just smearing some clay over it, with the only benefit being that the side looks more professional because it's flush.
Here's how you'd assemble the can the other way around (and its problems):
Start with the silicone layer as the bottom; (I don't know how you'd get the mesh incorporated into it.)
Pour the epoxy onto the silicone (in order to make the hole in this epoxy, you may need to include some stubby core placeholder sticking out of the silicone - or just an olive sized blob of silicone that you drop onto the flattened silicone layer);
Pack the smoke mixture and drill the core out (or just pack the smoke mixture around with an old pen or similar as a core that you pull out once it's packed);
Fill the core hole with sodium bicarbonate;
Make a trench indentation across the top of the smoke mixture, assemble the whole fuse setup, lay the inside end of the fuse into the trench (or stick it into the smoke powder during packing), and suspend the outside part of the fuse over the trench. The trench is mainly there to allow for enough epoxy thickness between the outside part of the fuse and the powder.
Pour epoxy over the powder and around the fuse parts. (The problem with this last epoxy pour is that there's no point where you're going to drill anyways and can afford to have bubbles. You may need to pour it in two steps; a first one that covers all of the powder, and a second one that ensures that you get a certain bubble-free thickness.
Don't forget to cut the silicone.
They use brass powder to block RF.
Wow! Incredible video!
Came for the smoke, stayed for the humor
I love the fart sound idea. I think it needs more than a slit. To be reliable, the silicone needs a bit of a protrusion, like lips (think: blowing a raspberry), or like the valve of a whoopee cushion, only thicker.
@WaffleStaffel a good fart sound just needs a tight exit slit that's bigger on one side to make it sputter, then it's just about dialing in the sizing
Good lord are you a chemical engineer. Great stuff.
@@I2AT nope. A carpenter.
@ seems like a weird fbi sting op. But if it’s not it’s pretty cool chemistry. Cheers!
I don't want to know the experiments he does with Mr buzzy off screen 😂😂
Might I suggest a thrower device for extra dispersal? Very similar to a tennis ball thrower, this would be a plastic “arm” to grip an throw a smoke device extra distance so as to maximize the effected area.
Hope this helps.
if you want to launch something like this then it's better to just use a grenade launcher design. Something like the Thumper is incredibly simple and reliable, though if you wanted to avoid using actual powder for the launch you could go for a pnuematic instead.
@@robonator2945 is this compatible with the constraints of airsoft?
@@danpalchak6916 There are airsoft grenade launchers, aren't there?
the sound is more like angry bees to my ears , im digging it
it might help you to rethink your title card / video preview image of your videos since I overlooked the notification from my other notifications
though i enjoy the content and hope you keep growing and improving
Are you saying to vary the thumbnail style?
@@InventionIncarnate I'd at least suggest trying that, and yeah forgot that it was called thumbnail
though don't feel the need to lose your personal style chasing clicks
Cool video now how do you change the color of the smoke?
@@yigarok look around my channel. I’ve got yellow and red formulas. I’m working on a master video that will include every color, but I’m dealing with some financially crippling censorship issues with yt rn
Great Video! what is the shelf life for these? Estimated shelf life anyway..
Should be years if not decades.
I second that. Painted should last twice as long as unpainted
Hi, that's a nice tutorial! Could you try coloring the smoke in different colors, while keeping it non-toxic for airsoft?
Love stuff like this. Why not get an investor mass produce this if it’s that much better than a normal smoke grenade?
...outstanding video, thanks for sharing.
Hello I was wondering if you could use a three d printed smoke granade and make it work thank you
Can't you put mold release wax on a 5/8 pvc pipe and pour the epoxy around it? Seems like it would save time and mess.
You can also buy baling wire for the fuse. Wrap it around the fuse and add a drop of CA glue on it to keep it from pulling through. It's how we did it for det cord.
A dab of JB Weld or RTV Sealer over the fuse end might block the cap striker jumping over to the exposed end of the fuse.
Love the channel
Can I supplement potassium nitrate for the potassium chlorite?
@@JesseJames-ql6bm negative. Too hot. And it’s chlorATE.
@InventionIncarnate oh thanks I was reading that wrong
would these be able to use at airsoft/paintballing places?
It is really amazing. My little girl lived the Barbie doll episode. I gad to turn the volume down when Ken dropped the F bomb. Anyways she was asking me if I could make colord smoke like the fireworks and make smoke rockets. Too smart for a seven year old. Still I was on a mission as I feel that colored smoke rickets and flares would be great in an oh shit situation when You need to get noticed. Sometimes chem ligts are not enough. We used dies in in addition to strobes in the Navy though I am no longer in the ocean often since moving to New Mexico. Anything that gets me noticed when needing rescue or tripwire early warning systems that let you hear or see a potential threat is great. Oh yeah and my daughter says daytime fireworks.
Is it possible to create a non/low toxic smoke grenade without using terephthalic acid?
i'd love to save these videos as i have bad memory but i live in uk so that would be very silly
Great work 👍
Look who it is! When are you gunna sponsor one of my videos? This is where all those 1/4” plugs and time fuse go
Cool stuff!
If you’re looking to purchase his pull string igniter KIT, do it . I made the the wife help me with the Venmo deal because I don’t normally do that and I made the purchase. Was shipped fast and I got exactly what I wanted, came in a pretty pink with cactus bag again wife definitely thought it was another one of her packages. Thank you again this is an ohio winter blues package date wife and I are going to try together and make some smoke why not, thanks for making these I’ll definitely be making more purchases moving forward. Fargo.
Thank you sir!
Enjoy your videos
You should patent and then apply for a DOD contract…except, charge Uncle Sam 1000% more per unit than your cost. They will eat it up🦅😉
Very cool!
I feel like the website will 100% put me on a watchlist if this video hasn’t already. Lol
@@atomwyrm541 if you're Free, White, and Christian you're already on "The List." So don't go worrying to much
I subbed immediately after “Attractive financial analysts with poor judgment.”.😂☠️😂
This is awesome!
(These are gonna be so much fun for Airsoft/ Larp). 🤔👍
Why do I feel like I’m on a watch list now
I’m pretty sure I’ve been on one so it’s whatever 😂😂😂🤷🏻♂️
@@LetsGet_It_Don 😂
Oh yea bro you’re definitely going to IWA
I’d love to learn how to make multiple colors of this.
@@Print744 add some crayons
This brings me back to the days of Shooting Eggs Productions
37:30 I personally don't trust crimp rings. Just ever so slightly too little pressure and it can slip; whereas if a knot is tied in the proper pattern it will work (even if you don't tighten it enough or whatever). Just a proper bowline knot would even allow you to omit the metal pull ring.
Even better, make the cord loop large enough that you can pull it over the top so that it runs once all the way around it (with enough extra length to get a gloved finger under it). Then tape down about half of that loop on the knot side. In order to ignite, you have to pull the loop over the top again; just pulling from the non-taped side won't do anything. This fact and the string usually being flush against the can will offer protection from it getting snagged on something.
Because of that ridiculous segment, this video has 2x more views than the average of all 111 of my prior videos. 90% due to YT recommendations. This is SO F_Cked
Leave a supportive woke comment here to further boost (we know it’s s@rcastic, but the @lgo doesn’t [yet])
Check out the video analytics: www.imghippo.com/i/dG5e71727887702.png.
My mom cuts fruit like that too.
NICE
Awesome!👍
44:42 the siren song of success
Thanks
When are you going to start a scale up operation and start selling this stuff and hobby kits?
You got a patent pending on this? How long before one of the commercial makers rips this off I wonder.
In my first edit of video I was going to say “someone patent this before a big company steals it and throw me some money if it gets bought out,” I don’t have 10k to file. I set up a go fund me for future patents though-which I forgot to add to description, but will now
I don't think you can patent something that was already published. The other issue being, that it can be costly to defend one's patent when some big corp wants to steal it.
@@_muody Actually the publishing date of this video is now the prior date for which he can get a patent. He has not jeopardized himself (in court). The reality is most companies will settle. He will see money just not billions.
You can patent significant improvements on anything.
@@InventionIncarnate I'll see how the boys feel about a tac gear company. Shouldn't be a hard sell.
PS: What happened to mousetrap fuse?
Way not use a paper straw or something like that to put the fuse in. And would adding aluminum powder help in the burn ?
I'm thinking that if I tried to buy all the ingredients...I'd be put on a watch list of some sort.
have you had any luck coloring the smoke? is that something that you've played with at all?
@@TheMrHotwheels yes, I’m working on red now, however, I noticed that the dye I bought had fillers in it for bulking and anti cake, it’s throwing off my formulas the supplier of the red dye-fireworks cookbook, has no idea what’s in it. So I’m going to have to waste a few lbs of dye perfecting a formula
would survive fired out of a can cannon?
Only one way to find out!! I’ve got to get one of those.
Will the smoke be opaque to night vision (and thermal)? That's one of the main purposes of obscurant smoke now.
Here’s what this formula looks like on thermal. www.imghippo.com/i/q61Rf1728137043.jpg
I took that two nights ago. I’ve been testing powdered brass additive without significant success so far.
My problem is the methods I’ve researched like powdered brass flakes launched via the m76, use an explosive delivery. There are white and red phosphorus obscurants, also exploding, and nano-fibers which are impossible for me to obtain.
There must be a way to chemically dissipate an IR/thermal opaque material. You got any ideas?
Could you make the canister out of just about any kind of tube? Like PVC or HDPE? Heck even exhaust or aluminum tubing? Thinking of a LARPing scenario where things might get wet. Sure you could paint the cardboard tube, but why not take the extra precaution in those situations and make the tube out of something water proof.
That farting sounds more like a hive of angry bees
Have you tried colored smoke?
Wonder the deployment vs light via a plasma lighter or zipo
Neat science
Question: Does the TPA formula leave ash in the container?? If not, cant it just be started from the top? (Does it even need to be hollowed out if not?)
Have never built one.
How waterproof are the fuses?
How do you get all these breaking bad chemicals?
According to NileRed, it's apparently really easy as most of these chemicals have other legitimate uses and thus are not highly regulated.
У вас там не продаются в магазинах дымовые гранаты для страйкбола? 😲
What would you add to color the smoke?
Solvent dyes, though if you’re talking about High caliber, good color devices each color has a different formula. I’m working on red now.
What is you want more pre made ignition cups?
Where on earth do I get potassium chlorite?
@@Jesse_milsim that’s chlorate. Resource list on my website
@InventionIncarnate if you mean the pdf file it just says it not where to get it. Unless you mean to make it?
2:30 Uhm.....where can I get one of them friends?
Target, in the dildo aisle lol
Bye, love you too
You should upload all these vids to your website in case RUclips does something stupid.
The farty noise took me out 😂😂
I love you too
Came across this formula for a red smoke. Thoughts?
TPA-Based Red Smoke Formula:
• Terephthalic Acid (TPA): 40-45% (fuel)
• Potassium Chlorate (KCIO₃): 30-35% (oxidizer)
• Red Dye (Solvent Red 24 or a similar dye): 15-20% (colorant)
• Binder/Chlorine Donor (PVC or Parlon): 5-10%
@@quiggly36 is sucrose missing?
@@quiggly36 I didn’t think TPA was used as a fuel. I thought it was a passenger to be dispersed, giving a white base color to the red
I do think sucrose is missing. Probably because TPA is the supposed fuel for this formula. I might try the formula from Joe Domanico. Great video by the way! How does the fuse hold up for long term storage? I live in a very humid environment if, I made a batch how long could I expect them to store for?
Could someone make a 3d printed jig set and press for this set up? I can't design, but think it would make the workflow better.
Could you get me some measurements of all your lengths of tube, fuse, diameter of body etc.? I know a draftsman that might be able to design. Some cutting jigs and a press with the center hole that could be 3d printed.