Nerf Stryfe Re-Wire Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- At last, a proper guide to rewiring the Stryfe for maximum performance, including tear down and lock removal. Using high quality materials, unlock the true potential of this blaster in 2 parts. Part two is here:
Note- Mod at your own risk, soldering is not suitable for children without adult supervision and guidance. 
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I would not have been able to do this with out your assistance. This video is an excellent guide. I also watched your big battery guide which also is an irreplaceable resource. Thank you for the thorough videos.
I had a great experience rewiring my Stryfe. This was my first time soldering anything and my first lipo battery. I had absolute no experience prior to this project, but my outcome was extremely pleasing. My connections were sloppy but function as expected. I tested my blaster with a 9 volt as you instructed. When I heard the motor's wind up for the first time after my rewire, I was enveloped in pride.
I would like to point out the materials ran me about $100 usd for everything. The charger and battery were the main expense. I could have found better deals but I went to my local hobby shop and purchase equipment there.
Thank you 1000 times over. Your work made my experience possible.
Glad it was useful.i just thought all the other guides lacked clarity.
They say removing the thermistors in the motors do very little in performance..... Actually it does effect it dramatically.
I range tested it firing flat outside without breeze after rewiring.
Stock- 43ft flat
After rewiring - 60ft flat
And I was still running it on regular 1.5v alkaline cells.( the original ones I used.)
Thanks Foamdata for the guide. :)
If you used good quality materials the improvement in performance is down to the combined effect of removing all the choke points in the system. The inductors on the motors alone are not creating a measurable resistance, they are just a little coil of copper wire. Glad the rewiring guide helped you though.
Yes, it did. I couldn't have done it without your help :)
Thanks bro, I bought this nerf gun as a gift and luckily tested before wrapping. It didn't work. I removed all the stupid switches, thermoresistor, and inductors on the motor and it revs up perfectly!
Awesome Vid Foam I have just started to try my hand at modding and Custom painting this is the best stryfe vid I have seen. I have only been doing spring blasters been nervous to try electrical, but after watching this I my venture out a bit as soon as I buy a soldering kit !
Thanks I just subscribed to you today ! I will let you know how my first one goes when I get a chance to do it !
Thanks
Go for it! It's a total of 8 solder joins and three wires. Drop by www.britnerf.co.uk if you need any help, or nerf Reddit. Let us know how it turns out.
@@foamdataservices /r/nerf
Thanks, I do not own a stryfe neither do I own a flywheel but I wanted to know how it worked just incase. I watched many tutorials on youtube but I just couldn't figure out how to rewire it with batteries, you did show me though. I really want to thank you for that.
Thanks
Tycho
Glad it was useful, imagine the Stryfe as the simple circuit everyone makes in school with a battery, switch and light bulb. The battery is obviously your battery tray or pack, the switch is the Rev trigger and the bulb is simply two motors wired together in parallel. It's honestly super simple, go do it, don't worry about why it works, just know that it does!
Foamdata Services
Thanks!
I just finished my Stryfe project. This was my first Nerf mod so a lot of it was me learning as I went. I followed your re-wire guides and they really helped me out. I also orded those Efest IMRs you suggested and am waiting on them to arrive. That said I've already noticed a performance increase with just the rewire alone. Here's some pics of the Blaster, imgur.com/a/LvIjL . Thank you for the help!
Nice work! Glad this helped you, enjoy terrorising everyone else with your Stryfe! Will watch your demo video ASAP.
Do you have to put in whole new wire if you want to run 2 IMRS and 2 dummy batteries or 3 IMRS and 1 dummy battery?
You should always rewire before using higher powered batteries if you want to do the job properly. 3 IMR will just trip the thermosistor and removing it leaves your toy components unprotected from stall currents. If you just want to try out better batteries before re wiring properly then 2 IMR and 2 dummy cells won’t trip the PTC and will give you a small performance boost vs stock. Flywheelers are all or nothing in mod terms tho, they work much better done properly.
Jist get the gauge of wire? No special core or anything?
Wire is matched to expected current demands, so if you are planning to upgrade later from stock motors to other hot 130’s use 18AWG or 16 if you might put in 132's or 180's. Strand count and cross sectional area are what dictates current capacity in wire. I use RC grade silicone insulated multi strand, there are lots of examples linked in other comments.
Foam could I bother you for one more thing ! would you put a link to where you get the wire on eBay ! I just ordered the IMR batteries from your other link in the description. I am also going to radio shack this weekend I saw the heat shrink things on there website.
Wire- get 1-2ft each of Red Blue and Black
www.ebay.com/itm/18AWG-Black-Silicone-Wire-RC-hobby-lipo-motor-battery-USA-SHIP-1ft-18-gauge-ga-/171830252943?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2801e1958f
Heatshrink
www.ebay.com/itm/150pcs-2-1-Polyolefin-Halogen-Free-Heat-Shrink-Tubing-Tube-Sleeving-Cable-Wire-/360650816383?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53f876bb7f
Great thanks i ordered everything ! appreciate it, I really appreciate you being so helpful
Good luck with your rewire, the Stryfe is amazing modded.
Lol 1,337 Subs Gratz!
Quick question - is there a set of motors that is happy with a lipo battery upgrade and would also run on AAs? I had an idea to have an AA battery pack that can be removed and plugs in using XT60 connectors like a lipo, so that the kids can use it around the garden without melting anyone’s face off, or causing a fire when inevitably doing something stupid with a lipo...
Yes, stock motors.
Also lipo is totally safe. My kids use it all the time. Just remove from the blaster and check voltage after playtime, recharge then put in the box for next time.
Foamdata Services cheers, I still have the stock motors in there with a 3s, which works fine but after a while the motors give off a bit of a ‘scent’, would you recommend a 2s for stock? Tried looking up the motor specs but couldn’t find any...
That smell is ozone, it’s the copper brushes burning. The only other alternative would be MTB Rhinos, standard ones, not Neo, they will just about run off NimH AA cells and are excellent on 3s lipo. I don’t run any stock Nerf motors at 3s.
can i use a standard double a battery 1.5v with this rewired stryfe?
Yes you can, it will still work fine. You just won’t get much more power.
Can I remove the resistors in the motors and use standard 1.5v batteries? Will it have any change in performance?
They are INDUCTORS, basically a small coil of wire, not resistors, so they DONT MAKE ANY DIFFERENCES to performance if you don't do the rest of it. You CAN use a rewired one with standard batteries, it won't have huge performance gain but it will be easier to use as there are no locks as well as better wire. I have several that my regular players use at home with 1.5v then they put IMR cells in for wars.
Foamdata Services so if I rewire the electronic locks I will at least have "slight" performance change?
And this, I don't have trustfires. I only have standard batteries, so if I remove the inductors, will it have change in performance or not?
No, none what so ever. Do the job properly, change all the wiring for proper stuff, then save up for better batteries. IF you rewire fully you might get 2-3fps. A proper measurement will be added to my battery wars test in the next few weeks.
Ok, thanks a lot for your help. This guide is very helpful :)
I believe I did everything u said, after I finished everything was ok, the motor was spinning, the buttons were working... But it shot less than half the distance before the re wiring. I could smell something was overheating/burning when the motors were running. Can u pls help?
You have made a mistake somewhere. Check all your connections and make sure both motors are working. What battery did you use also?
Can I use 18 AWG wires, a 3s 25c 1000mAh LiPo to power 2 MTB Rhino Motors and rewire like this?
Yes.
Do u use ultra fire batteries for this mod and does it work
Dont use ultra fire batteries with nerf guns, they are dangerous with repeated and prolonged use, and in the past have broke my guns and one made my gun heat up so much that if it was sitting on something flammable it could have lit on fire.
i wanna do paint job how can i put the wires to batery back whitout soldeering
Paint it first, then finish the wiring.
You can do it with the whole thing together, but stuff the barrel, mag well and jam door with newspaper and mask off the trigger and battery compartment with painters tape. That will keep the paint out of the internals. I complete all my paint before wiring anything but my paint work is more involved than most people.
There's a masking how to on this channel. You can't attach the wires to anything without solder!
What do u mean whit masket to do whit out soldeering and when i wanna paint do i need to sand the nerf gun first? So yes how
+Virgil “CrazyGameLover” Bouwens Lightly sand with 400 grit auto paper (black) then paint. I totally sand off all the digi cam and wash the whole shell. to do that you should take all the internals out. if you are just painting with it all together then sand and wipe the outside with a clean damp cloth, then paint when its dried off. masking or painters tape is sold in diy stores you use it to cover areas you don't want paint to go on. google how to paint nerf.
Thanks for this video. What kind of battery pack would you use in this build? I feel like a lot of packs obviously wouldn't fit in the battery tray.
Here is the list of what fits the tray with a bit of hacking britnerf.myfreeforum.org/about1270.html&highlight=lipo
Blastersmiths do a tray expander for stryfes, or if you are a Stryfe pistol user, you can use Efest 14500 IMR cells, button tops. They are like Tossfires but provide actual current. Not as good as lipo but good compromise. 3 in the tray gives 105fps average. If you put a pack in there use a deans connector on the end of the two wires that I soldered to the battery tray contacts, making it longer first and feed it to go out into the tray.
Hey man, I know this sounds a little dumb but can you list the exact tools you use? Like the links to them? Including the wires
Flipz _ UWU Soldering iron, solder, flux, wire cutters and 18awg silicone insulated wire. That’s all the spoon feeding you’re going to get. Modding is a voyage of discovery, enjoy the journey.
Flipz _ UWU ^
Replied off my other channel!
Hi FoamDart Services, thanks for the video, I think I've got it but just a quick question so I know I've got this 100% crystal clear since this is my first time modifying a roller nerf.
I can use your video and rewire (either 16awg or 18awg wire throughout) my standard stryfe ( stock motors/AA alkaline batteries etc) and see a small gain in performance but more importantly what I'm doing is I'm future proofing it for when I want to upgrade the motors and battery ( fang revamps/42.5mm cage/ bulldog wheels/2s lipo ). That's 100% isn't it.
Also if you've a better combination for motor/cage/wheels/battery to achieve around 130 FPS of really appreciate hearing it.
Thanks
Rhory Burnside Yep. Just add an XT60 connector to the loom for lipo and either swap the rev switch or add a MOSFET for new motors, Fang RV are very high current draw at stall. I leave 4-5cm of spare wire coiled in the stock block on AA builds to allow for a later lipo upgrade. Use 16AWG if you intend to go with new motors later.
@@foamdataservices 100% thank you. I guess I'm wire shopping tonight then 🤘🏻.
Are there motors on the market you could use with a standard rev switch or is it best just to swap it out when changing motors?
You can leave the stock switch in if you make a MOSFET loom. I would do that from the start if you want to future proof the build. BSUK and Out Of Darts do mosfet loom kits.
Love the guide, great work.
Sorry perhaps a silly question. Almost every mod guide ive seen recommends replacing the microswitch. Is there a reason you chose to keep it? If it isnt part of the resistance i'd rather keep it as well as that would be a lot easier
A switch cannot generate measurable resistance, it's simply two copper contacts. People advocate replacing them in the mistaken belief that they burn out. I left the stock switch in for this guide as it's fine with any 130 motor set, it's better long term to replace it from a reliability perspective as it's a 2c low quality part. If you use a MOSFET loom you never need to replace the switch as it only carries signal current.
Foamdata Services
thanks for the info! if im not mistaken its something that can always be replaced easily at a later stage if it fails?
also does this mean you could potentially leave in the other switches if you were so inclined?
Take the lock switches out or use them to turn on led's. They have zero practical function beyond satisfying toy laws. You can upgrade rev switch later, there's a video on the channel about doing so. In the RS always replace the switch gear.
Stupid question: Would it be possible to just cut the stock wiring and just re solder it back together?
Not if you want to use more than stock batteries. The stock wire is rated for max 5A.
Yeah, I was mainly looking to do a paint job, I'm already quite happy with the performance out of my Stryfe I use energiser batteries and it seems to do a better job than the other batteries I've used in the past, would these batteries still be classed as stock batteries though?
Yes those are stock batteries. You get much better results with 18AWG silicone insulated hobby wire, including a small power boost. The wire is very cheap, you only need 3ft ft of it to do the whole lot. I would rewire then you can run better batteries and motors later. Throw the stock crap in the bin where it belongs.
Yeah, but don't I have to get like three different types of wire to do that? also where would you buy such wire?
You can buy single lengths of it in lots of colours off eBay. You can just use red and black if you are being stupidly tight.
Thanks
Where can I gat the wire is it stranded or not
It's stranded 18Awg silicone insulated hobby wire, or 16AWG for 180's. I get mine from E-Bay or if you buy the Blastersmiths UK kit it comes with all the wire and switches.
Can i use a 3.7v 650 mah 2s lipo which came with my quadcopter on my stryfe and will it have good performance,if yes pls make a tutorial on how to use it.
That pack may be a bit small, it should be fine for STOCK motors only. Just follow my rewire guide and instead of soldering the main +ve and -ve wires to the battery tray terminals, drill a hole into the battery compartment and run the wires out of it, then solder battery connector on the end. Your pack probably has a JST connector on, which will just about work with stock motors. Otherwise you will need to change the pack connector and use a Deans or XT60. That means you wouldn't be able to use it in your quadcopter without changing its plug too. I would recommend a low voltage alarm too, to protect your battery. Here it all is in the tray of a Stryfe
i.imgur.com/h7CIfDS.jpg
+Foamdata Services Thank you for replying very promptly,sir!
Also 3.7v is 1s, 7.4v is 2s. 1s WONT work with the stock motors.
What type of wire did you use?
Read the comments.
Which wires did you use again
READ THE COMMENTS.
what diameter is the wire?
Read the comments. Answer is there.
Hello Foamdata Services,
I wanted to start off with that I'm new to the channel and subbed right away for you make great and very useful content, but as I was going through the mod (this is my first time modding and soldering) I finished everything to what I thought was correct and it works but it doesn't stop revving, as in like I put in the batteries and it automatically starts and won't stop till I take them out, I was wondering if you have any ideas of what the problem might be ? I really don't wanna through away my stryfe already and thank you very much for your time ! 👌🏻
You may have wired the rev switch wrong. If it's 3 pins, put one contact on the middle pin, the other on the top pin. Test by pushing the switch closed, if it stops then that's your problem. The other possibility is you melted the switch by putting too much heat in, if that's the case use one of the lock switches instead, wired as above. If it's not that then I would need to see pictures of it to fix it. I can be found at www.britnerf.co.uk
Foamdata Services alright thank u very much I really appreciate it ! It was the rev trigger combined with my bad soldering, i finally got it this time though
What will happens if I remove the dart tooth?.
Please respond.
There is no dart tooth in a Stryfe. If you mean the stupid dart sensor lock that sits over the mag well, then pulling it out and binning it makes the blaster much better as it doesn't lock the trigger all the time. No other similar blaster has that part, it's really annoying. Bin it.
I meant the two things before the flywheel. The bullet is pushed through these weird teeth (I don't know what they are called)
Also!. What happened to your website. It will not load. It is just a blank screen
Sorry, I just saw the middle post. Those "wings" are the dart guides. You can take them off if you want, the Rapidstrike doesn't have them and uses the same flywheel cage.
@@weirdinternetperson4342 *dart
Love the video I would like to rewire my Stryfe. Can you tell me what type and wire and voltage you use.
18awg silicone insulated multistrand hobby wire, for stock motors use 2 IMR batteries or a 2s Lipo. See my balance and battery videos for more info.
+Foamdata Services DOES a 3s exist that fits inside the BatteryTray without an extended door???
idk
Pirate Johnson Yes, its just small and under 800mah. There are a couple of LIHv packs that fit. Its better to have a bigger pack though, just buy a tray expander and use a 1000mah 40c.
Can you send me the link to the wire
18AWG Silicone insulated multistrand hobby wire. Blastersmiths.co.uk sell a pre cut wiring kit. I get wire off Component Shop on UK ebay.
Atij- no we don't use Ultrafire batteries. I use either a small 2s Lipo pack or 14500 IMR cells. Both are far better than Trustfires or ultrafires, which lack the current delivery required by Nerf blasters. IMR cells can use the same charger as Ultrafires but do cost more. They are also far safer.
Great tutorial! How many IMRs do you run in this, all 4? 3 IMRs and a dummy?
Atij- watch my battery video or Bobololo's battery guide.
These are IMR batteries.
www.ebay.com/itm/2-EFEST-IMR-14500-Li-Mn-700maH-HIGH-DRAIN-Rechargeable-Battery-3-7V-BUTTON-TOP-/231241593777?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35d712b3b1
Foamdata Services thank you on your battery video- you explained everything so well and helped my noobish brain understand a lot more
vodo2 Glad to be helpful. Make Test Battle have an excellent vid for new electrical modders as well.
You were no help at all
If you can’t rewire a Stryfe then stick to simpler mods. I can’t make it any more basic than this.