Design Boards - Urban Elementz
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- Опубликовано: 18 окт 2024
- In this video we explain what a design board is, how to connect them, place them, and quilt using them, even align the next row of stitching.
Pipeline - Grande - Two Board Set - Design Board
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⦁ Machines used: Bernina Q24 with ClassiQ IntelliQuilter, Bernina 770 Quilters Edition Plus, Bernina 435
Great tutorial. I feel confident in trying this as I begin my long arm quilting journey.
I love using design boards. It absolutely is building my eye/hand coordination and my quilting confidence ♥️
Even the most accomplished quilter would be no where without a lot of practice. Keep up the good work!
Excellently tutorial! Though I’m wondering with the way you start isn’t there missing spots that haven’t been quilted at the very top?
Hi Kathy,
We apologize for the delay in responding. There are a couple different options, but it will be a personal preference. While using the design boards, it helps give you consistency and practice, but you can fill in the blank spots without them. You could also copy the design onto paper and use that as a guide, even folding the paper in half.
Here is what I do. Hope it makes sense. I position the quilt so that only the top third/half of the design is actually on the quilt. I decide this based on the design. I then place masking tape horizontally along the design board so that the stylus will not travel into the lower portion of the design. As I stitch, when the stylus hits the tape (which should be in an area slightly off the edge of the quilt, I lift the stylus and stitch (while holding the stylus up) over to the next area that would cross back onto the quilt. I do this all the way across the quilt. So what you have is a partial row stitched along the edge of the quilt - as though you 'ran off' the quilt while stitching. I then advance the quilt and quilt a full row. I continue this until the end of the quilt. At the end of the quilt I do the same except now I am using the bottom third/half of the design. This is exactly the same way I stitch pantographs. You end up stitiching partial rows at the top and the bottom of the quilt.
@@myradavis2284, Thank you for responding, that totally makes sense to me! In using the boards with this method the quilting will flow nicely from top to bottom!
Is there a trick to getting clean points? Also, as there is wiggle room in the channels in relation to the width of the stylus, so you think about “banking” the stylus against the edge of the groove to maximize accuracy-if that makes sense?
Hi Kelly - thank you for your questions. The stylus is made to fit the channel so that it glides without resistance, but does not not wiggle within the space. Therefore, your quilting will precisely replicate the design, including the points. Because it's following a set path, it eliminates the possibility of "overshooting the runway" on a point, or prematurely altering the direction of a point/curve.
Hi there, it looks great, which BSR setting are u using on the Q24, is it BSR 1,2 or 3
I was using BSR 1
It all depends on what I am doing. Pantos or free motion quilting is in BSR1. All Ruler work is in BSR2, because no stitching is happening while your not moving the head, which protects the ruler and needle from accidents, and BSR 3 is a basting function, which you can adjust. I use BSR 3 to baste the top of the quilt and sides of the quilt when attaching the top to the batting and backing on the frame. I hope this helps.
What design board are you using?
@@jeanetteallen616 The name of this design board is "pipeline" by patricia ritter. There is a link below.
www.urbanelementz.com/pipeline-grande-two-board-set-design-board.html
What if your design board doesn’t have the 2 dimples to advance the quilt to stitch out the next row?
Thank you for your question, Collette. If your boards do not have a dimple, we suggest making a dot on the boards with a marker and use that as a guiding point.
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