This series of videos is just fantastic and much appreciated, even years down the road. Successfully did the head gaskets on our D2 using Atlantic British's absolutely brilliant video that made the job a piece of cake. Now tackling the brakes with this superb video. Thank you for taking the time to make these, and for your concise, thorough presentation of the subject matter. Saved thousands of $$$.
Great to have this on hand. Just bought kit for front and rear. Now I don’t have to worry about any surprises, like I did with my wife’s Audi and had to have an independent change it all out for me.
Wish I would have watched the video before I started. Very helpful. Thanks for posting. Took me 2 hours to find a #4 phillips screwdriver. Lowes, Pepboys, Napa, and O'reilly's didn't have one. I found one at an agriculture parts store for $15. Once I saw the video It only took about 45 minutes to finish.
Hi there. One of my rear Rangerover p38 break callipers moves out when I push the break pedal but won't compress back in to allow for the thickness of the new break pads. I've tried removing the fluid reservoir cap and loosening the blead nipple, but it just wont pudh back in with a G clamp or pliers. Any suggestions would be great.👍
When I do brakes I check the fluid level in the reserve before pushing the pistons back as all to often the reserve has been topped up to max level. If this is the case there is a good chance when you push the pistons back the reserve will over flow. Also as a matter of course I would always loosen the reserve cap before pushing the caliper pistons back as it make the flow of fluid back into the reserve easier.
Please confirm what I thought I heard at 6:30 "the D2's D1's and P38's ...use a locating bolt" I just set myself up to do what should have been a normal brake job on my 99 D1 only to realize that the entire hub must come off to replace the rotor. Not anything like you have described. The D1's have the same brake pad system as the defender and it is NOT as simple as this to replace the rotors. There are the 5 bolts that must be removed to get to the hub - then the 5 wheel mount bolts have to come out of the back of the rotor to be separated from the hub. That is the video I wish you would do for us. To confirm, there is no locating screw on the D1. If you have the video on brakes for the D1 please let me know. I have not found it yet. Thanks
RickEtsuko Very helpful to find your comment on here. I had the same same questions, as I am replacing my rotors and pads on my 99 D1. If you have any tips I’d really appreciate it! Thanks!
if you're like me (poor man) & you don't want to buy an impact screw driver set just to get two rotor screws out..simply use angle grinder to cut a slot for a big flat head screw driver, will pop right out with small amount of pressure
Can’t tell you guys how much I appreciate these videos all the way in 2024 while working on my disco (brand new to mechanic work too- so far so good)
This series of videos is just fantastic and much appreciated, even years down the road. Successfully did the head gaskets on our D2 using Atlantic British's absolutely brilliant video that made the job a piece of cake. Now tackling the brakes with this superb video. Thank you for taking the time to make these, and for your concise, thorough presentation of the subject matter. Saved thousands of $$$.
These guys have hit all. They’re why I’m able to afford to keep my ‘01 Disco (original owner) on the road.
Great to have this on hand. Just bought kit for front and rear. Now I don’t have to worry about any surprises, like I did with my wife’s Audi and had to have an independent change it all out for me.
Wish I would have watched the video before I started. Very helpful. Thanks for posting. Took me 2 hours to find a #4 phillips screwdriver. Lowes, Pepboys, Napa, and O'reilly's didn't have one. I found one at an agriculture parts store for $15. Once I saw the video It only took about 45 minutes to finish.
Doug, Thank You for all the instructional videos. Very useful!
Hey thanks guys! very helpful and easy to understand! Cheer!!
Awesome thanks for the video!!!
Thank you fore share yout knoledge
On a 2001 Discovery it's a 1/2 inch twelve points socket used to take the caliper mount off
Hi there. One of my rear Rangerover p38 break callipers moves out when I push the break pedal but won't compress back in to allow for the thickness of the new break pads. I've tried removing the fluid reservoir cap and loosening the blead nipple, but it just wont pudh back in with a G clamp or pliers. Any suggestions would be great.👍
What would be the best brand of break kits for a 2002 Land Rover discovery sport city driver heavy foot driver ..
When I do brakes I check the fluid level in the reserve before pushing the pistons back as all to often the reserve has been topped up to max level. If this is the case there is a good chance when you push the pistons back the reserve will over flow.
Also as a matter of course I would always loosen the reserve cap before pushing the caliper pistons back as it make the flow of fluid back into the reserve easier.
Is it true that you can't turn the rotors on a LR DII? I heard that they are already at minimum spec.
Great Video! just wanted to let you know it's DIY not DYI/ :)
Please confirm what I thought I heard at 6:30 "the D2's D1's and P38's ...use a locating bolt" I just set myself up to do what should have been a normal brake job on my 99 D1 only to realize that the entire hub must come off to replace the rotor. Not anything like you have described. The D1's have the same brake pad system as the defender and it is NOT as simple as this to replace the rotors. There are the 5 bolts that must be removed to get to the hub - then the 5 wheel mount bolts have to come out of the back of the rotor to be separated from the hub. That is the video I wish you would do for us. To confirm, there is no locating screw on the D1. If you have the video on brakes for the D1 please let me know. I have not found it yet. Thanks
RickEtsuko Very helpful to find your comment on here. I had the same same questions, as I am replacing my rotors and pads on my 99 D1. If you have any tips I’d really appreciate it! Thanks!
Imagine he hammered the rota and the exhaust fell off or something
This made me chuckle
Are the little screws essential... no..so why replace...?
No grease?
if you're like me (poor man) & you don't want to buy an impact screw driver set just to get two rotor screws out..simply use angle grinder to cut a slot for a big flat head screw driver, will pop right out with small amount of pressure
Groovey ..😁
At hats great other than the damaged wheel bearings you now have from hammering the disc
Those retainer screws suck.