I love it silent, no crappy music, no fast talking guy with useless comments. Straight like an arrow, you give the essential; pieces, measures, cuts, assembly. Many thanks, I needed a versatile burner. I found it. I like your small welder, I have a 100 amps one, it's the universal small welding tool, useful everywhere as it works on 110 V 15 amps and weights only a few pounds. For this kind of small welds I use 3/32 SS 309 sticks, far smoother to use and finally stronger than the 6013. Also you can use the SS 312 alloy which permits to weld any kind of steel alloy and iron, it pays by itself its price.
I appreciate your feedback on the video and the welding tips, I will check those rods out. On my best day my welding is mediocre I need all the help I can get. Thank you.
Try it and you'll love., All these small welds become a breeze to make with a DC stick welder and SS 309 or 312 sticks. The SS 309 is the easiest stick, starts smooth, works with low amps, the slag falls alone, and the weld itself is smooth and best the welds are dense and does not rust. After 3 sticks you'll believe you're a welder. I use it on all my galvanized tubing as it does not need any grinding after welding, as the slag falls alone and the welds nice and flat. With a little preparation before (well open V at the joints,there is not any work nor grinding after welding and the damage to the galvanization is minimal. It's very strong. The SS 312 behaves similarly but has the advantage to be able to weld any steel alloy; tooling steel, drill bits, chisel steel, spring steel, crankshafts, manganese alloys, high strength steels and all the 300 series stainless steels plus most iron castings. I've welded steel on iron without problem, and repaired compressor iron castings and car engine manifolds and exhausts Even iron casting barbecues. and iron dutch oven lids. It's very ductile and pretty strong, so the welds never crack. The alloy has been invented to weld the blades on military gas turbines... The price is correct if you buy them in a true welder shop and not in a blister of 5 at some Tractor supply... You can keep the SS 309 and SS312 electrodes many years in a well closed plastic bag.
Thanks again for the information. I did not use any galvanized pipe, the pipe was corroded and wire brushed and kind of looked like galvanized pipe. Welding galvanized pipe is something that I stay away from, the fumes wigg me out a bit.
You're welcome. I gave also the information for everybody. A good fan blowing away the fumes and working outside solve the minor problem of zinc fumes which are minimal when the tubing has been well prepared (open V joints).
Good metal-working skills. No a**h**e talking about himself, just watching somebody make something useful. What better way to spend a time in shut-down mode.
Thanks for your comment, my youtube pet peeves are, crappy music, and begging people to like and subscribe, Do not get me started on long animated intros :)
Thank you very much mate, all the compliments you're getting are deserved, cheap and clever, life is complicated enough doesn't need to be more complicated.
My only education is from many videos, but that is the nicest blue coned flame that I have seen, forced or venturri , quieter and nicer looking, but alas, I don't have a welder and just want to make some copper ingots.
hi , you safe my day !…. i was not abble to find a coupler reducer here in the philippines 11/2 x 3/8 , bud now i wil make your venturi ,, thanks buddy
I am going to try and copy this design on my forge. I tried to copy your main forge design but I have a hard time getting it to fire right... I think this will work better than the current way I have it set up. Thanks for such an awesome video and I can't wait to see more! Your the reason I decided to build a forge! I want to start doing razors! Your stuff is amazing Art!
Yo I've been messing around with other designs for a few days too rich too lean more air more venturi blah blah blah. Built this in 20 minutes and it works. Big thumbs up
Lewis Razors it's true, what this guy says. because let's be fair, if you don't have basic tools eg welder, drill press, grinder(s), belt grinder/sander etc etc you ain't gonna get too far before you start whinging about how hard it is. So many people want hobbies, but there are far too many that want these hobbies to be free....eg knife making. Thing is, a hobby like this if done correctly is not cheap. Sure you can do your best to keep costs down by using inferior steels and tools. But, it is a waste of time. If you are looking to do something like this, do it right! And do it right from the start. Yes, there are certain things that can reduce cost, 1st of imo is get good (or at least proficient) at welding, stick or mig. If you can weld you can save thousands! Make your own bandsaw, make your own abrasive belt grinder, fabricate work benches, welding tables etc etc. Welding is of such importance in the modern day shop if you don't want to pay top dollar for everything, and there is no excuse, EVERYBODY can weld, it is soooo easy, a child could do it! So, do like the author of this video does, make your own super effective burner, you have seen how easy it is........no excuses. People that buy burners are just god damn lazy!
Whew, at first I thought you were going to talk about my crappy welding :) I agree with you thoughts, being able to fabricate stuff in general is a great thing.
Wondering about the effect of G B Venturi on your ststem. Most other "torches have venturies at both ends and the cone of the flames sticks out further than yours seems to
Great idea on the flare! I'll have to give that a try. IMO you might be making the mig tip part too complicated. I left the thread on the brass nipple and put an end cap on it. Then I drilled a hole and tapped it for the mig thread size. Screwed everything up after sealing with gas-rated teflon, and BOOM. Worked perfectly. Took maybe two minutes to do, and I can always switch it out if needed.
You make very good valid points. I have done it that way also. I wanted to show a way that I had not seen other people do before. This way will work for somebody who does not own the right size tap.
That's a good point; I generally try and avoid using taps in general just since they cost a lot. My current forge burner uses the standard #57 hole method. Works pretty well, but it's FAR from original.
I see a lot of these videos making propane burners, you don't need the size pipe they are using, I have made a ton of those burners and use 1/8 pipe, I use a grease zert for the orfice it has a 1/8 pipe thread grind the back until the spring and ball fall out use a 1/8 pipe collar welded to 2 inch tube the only welding you do is the pipe collar to a pice of flat bar than to the tube, the rest standard pipe you can buy
Busy building. Just sourcing the parts for the back bit. The mig tips are not available here in South Africa so I need to be a bit creative. The burner tube and flare is done though.
Finally managed to put all the bits together . Just 1 small problem, it only ignites when I hold a match to it. As soon as I take the mach avay it dies. Any ideas?
Amigo buenas noches, he fabricado un flameador o soplete como el de su video, pero la llama no tiene mucha fuerza. Que presión de gas usa. Yo estoy trabajando con una pipeta de 40 libras.
Well, thanks for reminding me these exist. Ordered two: one for me, one for the guy who introduced me to the forge and the belt grinder almost 2 decades ago.
I love how you made the professional-looking flair. Sorta wish you'd aimed the camera down the maw to see how far down you push the 1" pipe. The depth may not matter a lot but seems like it may matter a little.
Thanks for the kind words. The pipe is about 1/4" ish into the flare. If you look real close a little before the 5:00 mark you can see the shiny wire brushed end of the pipe through the slot facing the camera as I tap it down.
Lewis Razors, excellent! I was looking at hammer and pusher rod at that moment, but now that you point it out, I can see clearly the bright metal through the slot. Thanks! BTW, I really like the cutting, grinding, welding, and soldering approach you've taken. Excellent results at a significantly lower cost. Isn't that the entire focus of engineering?
Good job Lewis very informative, at the end of the video you said you omitted the flare why so? does it mean that if the pipe is going into the forge the flare is not needed or one can put it if one wants to? Thx man
I do not need the welded on flare when running in a forge. The change in diameter from the hole in the forge to the outside diameter of the pipe work plus the burning in the chamber hold the flame.
Thanks for the kind words. The pipe is about 1/4" ish into the flare. If you look real close a little before the 5:00 mark you can see the shiny wire brushed end of the pipe through the slot facing the camera as I tap it down.
just one question, gentleman. you are using water pipe as material, right? pipes do have a fittings call reduce, with variable size you can connect a 3/4 inch up to 2 inch. and it is roughly usd1~2 a piece. can save you a lot of trouble or, is there any reason behind?
You can use an off the shelf fitting for a flare, but I have had better results using the shallow taper of a home made flare. Both will work, one just works a little better.
I used an old Panasonic GH1, (hacked) with an old 28mm manual Minolta lens. Sound was a Rode video mic going into a Zoom H1. I enjoy your channel you do interesting things.
It is just dumb luck and practice the welds started easily while filming. I am not a very good welder. I was using a 7014, I find the 7014 rod easy to start and run.
Andrew Sharp it has to do with air flow. if it was just a stright pipe it would not burn as well air would be moving to fast i belive look up tiger torch they all have flared ends.
Mike Hurst is right on. it needs the flare to work out in the open. It takes me less time to weld up a flare like this than to make one on my lathe. You can use a sheet metal flare, but it will not last long.
Maybie is the reason because is almost empty, but i think that tanks had compressed air also in upper section, anyway thanks for help, and sorry for bothering. When i got time i will make propan burner similar to yours. Cheers from Croatia.
Hello Ivan, .023 is apox .6mm. closer to .58mm. To convert Inch to mm Multiply inch by 25.4 and then you have metric in mm. .023 times 25.4 equals .5842 mm. If you need to go from metric to inches like for example 12.7 mm divide by 25.4 and that will be .500 inch, or half an inch. I hope this is of some help to you. Cheers from John, Australia. Ps here we used to be inch (imperial) now metric so I need to know both.
I have tried flares on the inlet side, I get the results I am after with this set up. As a matter of fact I usually end up using the choke a bit to limit air flow into the opening.
What size propane tank do you use, and how long does your propane last? I just finished building my forge and used your burner video to make mine. I’m starting my first knife tonight and curious how long my 20 pound tank will last. I will be upgrading to a 100 pound tank soon because I am aware of the 20 pound tanks freezing after running for a while. Great video! My burner I built from watching your video works amazing. 👍🏻
Worse. A common misconception is that if a surface is smoother, air flows better. The rough surface creates a golf ball effect, and the air flows as good if not better. If there is some obstruction, that is another thing.
@@NSB25445 Like in a ported smoothed out exhaust side of the valve head of an engine that then goes into smooth headers, vs, the intake side which is best left rough to get the fuel-air mixture tumbling and mixed better. I have a Hybrid forge and foundry burner, totally smooth past the burn chamber. It will easily get to welding heat.
I do not have a gauge on my burner. Sometimes I run at tank pressure no regulator, Sometimes I use a regulator, but without a gauge. When I am welding or making damascus I will run at tank pressure, when just forging I sometimes use a regulator.
I love it silent, no crappy music, no fast talking guy with useless comments.
Straight like an arrow, you give the essential; pieces, measures, cuts, assembly.
Many thanks, I needed a versatile burner. I found it.
I like your small welder, I have a 100 amps one, it's the universal small welding tool, useful everywhere as it works on 110 V 15 amps and weights only a few pounds.
For this kind of small welds I use 3/32 SS 309 sticks, far smoother to use and finally stronger than the 6013.
Also you can use the SS 312 alloy which permits to weld any kind of steel alloy
and iron, it pays by itself its price.
I appreciate your feedback on the video and the welding tips, I will check those rods out. On my best day my welding is mediocre I need all the help I can get. Thank you.
Try it and you'll love., All these small welds become a breeze to make with a DC stick welder and SS 309 or 312 sticks. The SS 309 is the easiest stick, starts smooth, works with low amps, the slag falls alone, and the weld itself is smooth and best the welds are dense and does not rust.
After 3 sticks you'll believe you're a welder. I use it on all my galvanized tubing as it does not need any grinding after welding, as the slag falls alone and the welds nice and flat. With a little preparation before (well open V at the joints,there is not any work nor grinding after welding and the damage to the galvanization is minimal. It's very strong.
The SS 312 behaves similarly but has the advantage to be able to weld any steel alloy; tooling steel, drill bits, chisel steel, spring steel, crankshafts, manganese alloys, high strength steels and all the 300 series stainless steels plus most iron castings.
I've welded steel on iron without problem, and repaired compressor iron castings and car engine manifolds and exhausts Even iron casting barbecues. and iron dutch oven lids.
It's very ductile and pretty strong, so the welds never crack. The alloy has been invented to weld the blades on military gas turbines...
The price is correct if you buy them in a true welder shop and not in a blister of 5 at some Tractor supply...
You can keep the SS 309 and SS312 electrodes many years in a well closed plastic bag.
Thanks again for the information. I did not use any galvanized pipe, the pipe was corroded and wire brushed and kind of looked like galvanized pipe. Welding galvanized pipe is something that I stay away from, the fumes wigg me out a bit.
You're welcome. I gave also the information for everybody. A good fan blowing away the fumes and working outside solve the minor problem of zinc fumes which are minimal when the tubing has been well prepared (open V joints).
like
You are the master of molding metals.
Good metal-working skills. No a**h**e talking about himself, just watching somebody make something useful. What better way to spend a time in shut-down mode.
Thanks for your thoughts and comment
Yes! As said that guy here, the video without music is much better! Congratulations!
Thanks for your comment, my youtube pet peeves are, crappy music, and begging people to like and subscribe, Do not get me started on long animated intros :)
Thank you very much mate, all the compliments you're getting are deserved, cheap and clever, life is complicated enough doesn't need to be more complicated.
You are welcome, thanks for the kind words.
My only education is from many videos, but that is the nicest blue coned flame that I have seen, forced or venturri , quieter and nicer looking, but alas, I don't have a welder and just want to make some copper ingots.
Wow, great vid! what took me so long to find your site. Thanks I will start my build very soon. Time to collect my supplies
Cool, I hope it works well for you
Bonjour , cet vidéo mérite 1000000 de vue + 1000000 de Jaime , bravo
hi , you safe my day !…. i was not abble to find a coupler reducer here in the philippines 11/2 x 3/8 , bud now i wil make your venturi ,, thanks buddy
Awesome Brother. thank you very much. finally I find the inspiration here. Warm regard from Indonesia
Great design. Simple and effective without too much pluming parts. Requires welding though but that's manageable and can add more fun to the build.
Thanks
I am going to try and copy this design on my forge. I tried to copy your main forge design but I have a hard time getting it to fire right... I think this will work better than the current way I have it set up. Thanks for such an awesome video and I can't wait to see more! Your the reason I decided to build a forge! I want to start doing razors! Your stuff is amazing Art!
I wish you luck with making stuff, I hope this works out for you.
Yo I've been messing around with other designs for a few days too rich too lean more air more venturi blah blah blah. Built this in 20 minutes and it works. Big thumbs up
Cool, I am glad it worked for you
This is honestly the best how to on a burner thank you
Those are kind words, Thank you
Lewis Razors it's true, what this guy says. because let's be fair, if you don't have basic tools eg welder, drill press, grinder(s), belt grinder/sander etc etc you ain't gonna get too far before you start whinging about how hard it is. So many people want hobbies, but there are far too many that want these hobbies to be free....eg knife making. Thing is, a hobby like this if done correctly is not cheap. Sure you can do your best to keep costs down by using inferior steels and tools. But, it is a waste of time. If you are looking to do something like this, do it right! And do it right from the start. Yes, there are certain things that can reduce cost, 1st of imo is get good (or at least proficient) at welding, stick or mig. If you can weld you can save thousands! Make your own bandsaw, make your own abrasive belt grinder, fabricate work benches, welding tables etc etc. Welding is of such importance in the modern day shop if you don't want to pay top dollar for everything, and there is no excuse, EVERYBODY can weld, it is soooo easy, a child could do it! So, do like the author of this video does, make your own super effective burner, you have seen how easy it is........no excuses. People that buy burners are just god damn lazy!
Whew, at first I thought you were going to talk about my crappy welding :)
I agree with you thoughts, being able to fabricate stuff in general is a great thing.
Lewis Razors z.😣😥😥😙😣😣🤔😉😇😚😙😁🙂😍😎😇😥😋😃😋😋😋😎😋😋😎😑☺😋☺😚☺☺☺😥😃😚😗😙😘🕪😣😏🙂😏😆
usi.de.garaj
0
Tip for marking a straight line around pipe. Wrap a piece of paper around it and mark you pipe, tube etc
That is a good tip, Thank you
Wondering about the effect of G B Venturi on your ststem. Most other "torches have venturies at both ends and the cone of the flames sticks out further than yours seems to
Great idea on the flare! I'll have to give that a try.
IMO you might be making the mig tip part too complicated. I left the thread on the brass nipple and put an end cap on it. Then I drilled a hole and tapped it for the mig thread size. Screwed everything up after sealing with gas-rated teflon, and BOOM. Worked perfectly. Took maybe two minutes to do, and I can always switch it out if needed.
You make very good valid points. I have done it that way also. I wanted to show a way that I had not seen other people do before. This way will work for somebody who does not own the right size tap.
That's a good point; I generally try and avoid using taps in general just since they cost a lot. My current forge burner uses the standard #57 hole method. Works pretty well, but it's FAR from original.
Nice Working Good Luck
Thank You
I see a lot of these videos making propane burners, you don't need the size pipe they are using, I have made a ton of those burners and use 1/8 pipe, I use a grease zert for the orfice it has a 1/8 pipe thread grind the back until the spring and ball fall out use a 1/8 pipe collar welded to 2 inch tube the only welding you do is the pipe collar to a pice of flat bar than to the tube, the rest standard pipe you can buy
That is a brilliant way to build a burner, thank you for the knowledge, I will have to try it.
tip with the solder on the copper pipe use a gas stove to heat the pipe
beautiful build. Been looking for a burner design for my forge and I think this is the one. Thanks for sharing.
You are welcome
Busy building. Just sourcing the parts for the back bit. The mig tips are not available here in South Africa so I need to be a bit creative. The burner tube and flare is done though.
Finally managed to put all the bits together . Just 1 small problem, it only ignites when I hold a match to it. As soon as I take the mach avay it dies. Any ideas?
This is truly a fantastic video
Thank you
what sort of regulator is needed for the propane cylinder?
Great hand and eyeball neck job on that larger pipe. It looked "factory" till I watched you do it
Thanks for your comments, I appreciate them.
Amigo buenas noches, he fabricado un flameador o soplete como el de su video, pero la llama no tiene mucha fuerza. Que presión de gas usa. Yo estoy trabajando con una pipeta de 40 libras.
Is oxygen pressure also connected or its just a connected to the gas only?
Thank you for sharing my friend
looks real good. I have a lathe and tooling to make this pretty simple.
Im wanting a small foundry furnace.
Nice.
Forgot about those spark guns. Seem a lot more convenient than what we do (lighting it with a small butane burner).
I used the sparker because I was making the video, I use my Zippo most of the time.
The pressurized butane lighters scare me a little bit :)
Well, thanks for reminding me these exist. Ordered two: one for me, one for the guy who introduced me to the forge and the belt grinder almost 2 decades ago.
I love how you made the professional-looking flair. Sorta wish you'd aimed the camera down the maw to see how far down you push the 1" pipe. The depth may not matter a lot but seems like it may matter a little.
Thanks for the kind words. The pipe is about 1/4" ish into the flare. If you look real close a little before the 5:00 mark you can see the shiny wire brushed end of the pipe through the slot facing the camera as I tap it down.
Lewis Razors, excellent! I was looking at hammer and pusher rod at that moment, but now that you point it out, I can see clearly the bright metal through the slot. Thanks!
BTW, I really like the cutting, grinding, welding, and soldering approach you've taken. Excellent results at a significantly lower cost. Isn't that the entire focus of engineering?
Amazing video bro i like it
Thank you
Thank you
PARABÉNS AMIGO VOCÊ É UM GRANDE PROFISSIONAL QUE DEUS UM ARTISTA QUE DEUS JESUS ABENÇOE SEMPRE SEUS CONHECIMENTOS.
As Simple As Possible:) new look for asap
thanks
Good job Lewis very informative, at the end of the video you said you omitted the flare why so? does it mean that if the pipe is going into the forge the flare is not needed or one can put it if one wants to? Thx man
I do not need the welded on flare when running in a forge. The change in diameter from the hole in the forge to the outside diameter of the pipe work plus the burning in the chamber hold the flame.
for the nozzle, can it use carburetor pilot jet?
did you uses propane only or propane + O2?
I have not tried a carburetor jet, I do not know. It was only propane.
Thanks for video Lewis, it's great! Do you use a regulator with it?
It depends on where I am using it. I do not have a regulator on my forging/welding forge, but I do have a regulator on my heat treat forge.
Mantap bos, pembuatanya sangat jelas 👍👍👍
Great video, thanks!
How far from the edge of burner tube was the flare placed?
Thanks for the kind words. The pipe is about 1/4" ish into the flare. If you look real close a little before the 5:00 mark you can see the shiny wire brushed end of the pipe through the slot facing the camera as I tap it down.
This is a lot easyer if you just buy threaded adaptors for changeing pipe size
could be
just one question, gentleman. you are using water pipe as material, right? pipes do have a fittings call reduce, with variable size you can connect a 3/4 inch up to 2 inch. and it is roughly usd1~2 a piece. can save you a lot of trouble
or, is there any reason behind?
You can use an off the shelf fitting for a flare, but I have had better results using the shallow taper of a home made flare. Both will work, one just works a little better.
Which camera did you use to record this video?
I used an old Panasonic GH1, (hacked) with an old 28mm manual Minolta lens. Sound was a Rode video mic going into a Zoom H1.
I enjoy your channel you do interesting things.
What number electrode was that
Hi. Like your video. What kind of tip did you use? Size?
It is a .023 inch mig tip for a wire fed welder.
awesome channel lewis, thank you
You are very welcome
beautiful video. that burner can melt copper in a crucible?
I do not know, I have never melted copper. I have only worked with with ferrous metals.
Nice stick welds. How do you get such nice arc starts? Mine just welds itself to the joint and bends
It is just dumb luck and practice the welds started easily while filming. I am not a very good welder. I was using a 7014, I find the 7014 rod easy to start and run.
that's a ton of work for the flared end, what purpose does the flare serve?
Andrew Sharp it has to do with air flow. if it was just a stright pipe it would not burn as well air would be moving to fast i belive look up tiger torch they all have flared ends.
Mike Hurst is right on. it needs the flare to work out in the open. It takes me less time to weld up a flare like this than to make one on my lathe. You can use a sheet metal flare, but it will not last long.
Whats the size of nozzle? i try it make it whit 0.8 mm but dint work
in the video I used a .023 inch tip, I have used several different size tips .023 , .030, and .035 all have worked for me.
Then tank dont have proper pressure, i cant archive blue flame.
It can be frustrating sometimes, the tank pressure sounds like a good place to look, I hope it starts working soon.
Maybie is the reason because is almost empty, but i think that tanks had compressed air also in upper section, anyway thanks for help, and sorry for bothering. When i got time i will make propan burner similar to yours. Cheers from Croatia.
Hello Ivan, .023 is apox .6mm. closer to .58mm. To convert Inch to mm Multiply inch by 25.4 and then you have metric in mm. .023 times 25.4 equals .5842 mm. If you need to go from metric to inches like for example 12.7 mm divide by 25.4 and that will be .500 inch, or half an inch. I hope this is of some help to you. Cheers from John, Australia. Ps here we used to be inch (imperial) now metric so I need to know both.
I already Made it ánd man it really works perfecto, i did my aluminium melt in 11 minutes, thanks man.
I am glad i worked for you, Thanks for the comment
hay que felicitarte por lo bien que sabes transmitir la enseñanza
Thanks
Hello, do you use a gas regulator?? Or do you just connect the gas hose to the burner??
On my forging forge I use tank pressure, on my heat treat forge it is regulated.
if u use the pipe for the other side, to use the venturi efect? you dont have better results?
I have tried flares on the inlet side, I get the results I am after with this set up. As a matter of fact I usually end up using the choke a bit to limit air flow into the opening.
Great job! I dont think the soldering did crap tho lol. The flux is enough
Thanks for the comment
Hi , Can get this burner . I need like two for smelting gold. What could be the prices?
I just showed how I made the burner, I do not have them for sale
Hi. approximately how many btu / hr does it produce?
I do not know
you make some really great videos. Thank you !
I appreciate you comments, you are welcome
این مشعل باز شهری کار میکنه دیگه ؟؟چه ژیگلوری روش بستی
Good video, sadly I don't have any fabricating tools. I'll have to settle for a gardening propane torch.
I used a propane torch and a kitty litter forge for years, it is a good starting place.
What size propane tank do you use, and how long does your propane last? I just finished building my forge and used your burner video to make mine. I’m starting my first knife tonight and curious how long my 20 pound tank will last. I will be upgrading to a 100 pound tank soon because I am aware of the 20 pound tanks freezing after running for a while. Great video! My burner I built from watching your video works amazing. 👍🏻
awesome build. the best tutorial. thanks
You are welcome
That choke's the niftiest thing about this. I could see putting a thread for it to travel on.
That is a good idea, I might have to try that some time.
De que diámetro es el barreno del tubo de cobre
Bagaimana bikin api melebar, tidak fokus satu titik?
Excellent job. Pecfect!! Thank You
You are very welcome
Amazing! You are so cool·~
Do you have to use a regulator?
it will work with or without a redgulator
precisamente a mi me hace falta hacer unos quemadores para una fragua electrica a butano si estuviera cerca que bien
I hope it works for you
Imagine how it would flow if the inside were as smooth as the outside.
Interesting thought
Worse. A common misconception is that if a surface is smoother, air flows better. The rough surface creates a golf ball effect, and the air flows as good if not better.
If there is some obstruction, that is another thing.
@@NSB25445 Like in a ported smoothed out exhaust side of the valve head of an engine that then
goes into smooth headers, vs, the intake side which is best left rough to get the fuel-air mixture
tumbling and mixed better.
I have a Hybrid forge and foundry burner, totally smooth past the burn chamber. It will
easily get to welding heat.
Sy mau tanyak2 ni pak gimana sehingga apix bisa seperti itu
Отличное видео,мне понравилось.Надеюсь что смогу сделать сам!
Thank you
Interesante, saludos desde Argentina
Thanks
Nice job
Thank you
What is the PSI of your propane regulator?
I do not have a gauge on my burner. Sometimes I run at tank pressure no regulator, Sometimes I use a regulator, but without a gauge. When I am welding or making damascus I will run at tank pressure, when just forging I sometimes use a regulator.
Gracias muy buena idea y gran trabajo
You are very welcome
Y cuanto me costaría o me puede mandar preparado donde se encuentra ud amigo
Is this a Venturi burner?
Yes
What's the size of the hole of the tip? Is more then 1 mm
It is .023 inches or .58
Bon jour . Je croi que le bute principal de élargir la sortie de la lance , pour éviter le surchauffe de la lance
a real eye opener for construction method but im sure we could do better for the air flow control shame, the rest is very impressive
Thanks for the comment
Amigo gracias por el video compartido quisiera hacer un quemador para un horno de pintar carros me podría ayudar con su conocimiento soy de peru
I do not have burners for sale, thank you for asking
I do not know anything about paint ovens, I am sorry
Felicitaciones. Excelente. Muchas gracias.
You are very welcome
Anda sangat pintar dalam hal ini,thank infonya is the best
Thank you
looks good man
Thanks
Parabéns pelo capricho obrigado por compartilhar Abç Brasil
You are very welcome,
Very nice
Thank you
Excelente trabajo, fácil de aplicar
Thanks
Parabéns pela criatividade, ficou show de bola.
Thanks for watching
interesante el proyecto...saludos desde venezuela
Thanks, greetings from Texas
@@lewisrazors mi fraterno saludo...aqui envenezuela tienes un amigo. me ghusto mucho tu prtoyecto.
Изменения длины в дюймах. 1 дюйм 2.54 см
Good job
Thank you
hi, can i buy one of these?
Not from me, I was just showing how I made mine
@@lewisrazors Ok, thank you :)
is very well.go to one for work in the chassis on my truck
I hope it works for you
good job..
Thanks
👏👏👏👏👏👏👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks
Thank you for your thoughtful reply.
You are welcome
merci pour la vidéo, bonne continuation ;-)
You are very welcome.
Muito bom. Gostei da idéia
Thank you
Очень хорошо экономик и горячие
Thanks
Practical project.
thanks
как правильно называется зажигалка