This video helped me diagnose my Seat Heater issues on my V70XC. I hope it’s ok that I mentioned you in my video and included a link to this video in my video description. ruclips.net/video/lp5PzWW7yFw/видео.html
Time has come to fix drivers side, did simple diagnosis like in this video and came up with no continuity in bottom heater pad. Seat out, cover off and found burned off wire in left section. I Think burning off is caused by getting in getting out munching of the side of the seat, which leads to actual folding of heater pad. Then wire gets tangled in himself, heats up and burns off. Thats what happened in my situation. First try: tried connecting wires with simple wago 2way wire connector, which is all plastic. WRONG, dont do it. Seat heating maybe worked for the first 10second but no more. Next day checked for continuity in bottom heater pad- nothing. Seat out, cover off, and found this plastic wago connector all melted to one solid piece. Now wires are crimped with solid connection with wire crimper and seat heating is working since. Just my expierence. By the way: Doors shut, then open the trunk and wait until trunk light turns off, then disconnect the battery. It takes about 10minutes for it to shut off and its enough not to get SRS light on your dash. For V70 P26 at least.
+SiRobb, Since I grew up on a farm, I know that most agricultural stores sell hog rings & the hog ring pliers. They're fairly cheap. The pliers have notches to hold the rings while you squeeze them closed. However, with conventional pliers, applying the hog ring is more like a balancing act; close the ring before it turns sideways in your pliers.
Gordon302 Hi, thank you for taking the time to comment. True, the pliers are easily available but they are a single use tool. I never buy tools that serve one purpose unless it's unavoidable. This wasn't one of those situations as cable ties work equally effectively for virtually free.
You’d think craft stores like Hobby Lobby etc would have these …. But nope! No one in town ironically tractor supply in you guessed it … the Vet area had them 😂 In a pinch for sure check animal supply store Can also use zip ties
+SiRobb, I suppose my point was that, since agricultural stores sell these pretty cheap, they're worth buying "if" you plan on reupholstering the seat & or properly replacing the foam yourself. I suppose if you're a farmer like myself, they are a multi-purpose tool; pigs & car seats.
Thank you for this. Neither of my seat heaters work in my 02 V70. I checked voltage going in to controllers and it was good. Output was a different story though. On both sides only one of the two connectors showed voltage and it was steady at 1.2V. The other showed nothing. I’m guessing both modules have gone bad.
Thank you for this video. I will check soon my seat. I have 07 S60 and in fact I have issue that you said can't happen, my passenger seat heats only back, not base.
Hi Sir Rob! On my wifes v40 2013 I did exactly what you do in the video. It has the same “form” like the old volvos. So I tried to do some resistance measuring and my multimeter beeped when it has no problem, the seat pad did not beep and zero ohm. I assume that the wire totally broke. I also did a module change from the working passenger seat, no result. If i understand correctly, if one of the pad is bad the module fully stops the heating on the good pad also. Am I correct? (Could not measure any outgoing voltage under heating program. On the passenger side I got 5-9 volts constantly.) I guess i have to replace the pad 😅. Thanks!
Hello man, thank you for explaining, module on driver seat is bad how i diagnosed, it has 15 volts input and outputs 0 on both pads, i will try to replace it with passenger seat module to see will it work.. Is it normal to have 15 volts to module? Maybe it went bad because od high voltage?
Hi SiRobb, Thank you for the video and the really good explanation! I checked both seats today and got the following results: both seats get ~12-13 volts. Resistance is fine with all pads. Module 1 outputs 0 volts on both pads. Module 2 outputs 3.7 volts and ~8 volts. Module 2 installed in the other seat shows the same voltages (3.7 volts and ~8 volts). The recommendation is probably to order two new modules, right? Thank you very much!
Sounds a bit complicated. The heated seats in my MX-5 stopped working and it was freezing cold so I just punched the centre console really hard and they started working again.
My drivers side seat stopped heating up followed by the passenger side a week or so later. Surely it’s too much coincidence that wires have broken in both 🤔 I’ve replaced both fuses but no change. Vida says “Right heater pad, faulty signal” and “Seat heater left, low signal” Both switches illuminate when pressed.
I know this is an old post but when you showed the Burnt wire it still looked like the wire was unbroken? If it were unbroken what would be the reason to cut it and put the ceramic piece in just to reconnect the wire back to it? As I said the wire wasn’t even broken so I am not sure how the part changed anything
I'm not sure that you've understood the video. The wire was still "connected" from a previous fix but that connection wasn't sound enough to give a sufficiently low enough resistance reading. Too high resistance will cause a hot spot and possibly worse. The before and after resistance readings show the benefit of the much more secure ceramic connection.
@SiRobb i have checked pads resistance is around 0.5 ohms, but it is rising by time and going over 1 ohm, voltage on module is 15 volts and outputs on pads are 0, tried switching the modules with passenger seat one and its not working, how do i know wich pad is bad and needs replacement?? Its Volvo V40 2013.
Hello, I also tried to fix the heating in the driver's seat, I soldered the wires where they were broken and now I get a resistance of 2.5 ohms, is it OK? Or do I have to look somewhere else if it's still broken? Thanks.
My dash board shows everything is working, heated & cooled seats on the dash are on. Still no heat or cooled feeling coming to both front seats. Any insight would be appreciated, what do you suggest? I have no burnt connections.
My Lexus seat heater light comes on but the heater is not working for either the driver or the passenger. Could I have a faulty relay rather than a problem with the heater itself?
If they both stopped at the same time, it's more likely to be a fault forward of the seats. The first test I would do would be to put a multimeter on the fuses to see if voltage is making it that far.
My car is a 2004 Cadillac with the heated seats not working. The lights come on at the switches, but the module under each seat wil make a clicking noise about every 10 seconds. I just bought the car used so not sure if they went out at the same time or not. Does this sound like the modules under the seat are bad, or something else. Thanks.
It's difficult for me to guess your particular fault and not all heated seats have a module like in this video so it's just a question of you testing for voltages and resistance at the pad wires and working your way through the electrical system. Basically everything in this video.
Nice video..I have 06 Suburban--heated seat switch lights as long as you hold it but goes out as soon as you release it (both driver and passenger). Fuse is not blown--any advice?
Hi! Is it possible to use this in Saab 9-3 2008? It feels Im burning in some place. Also i have o hole in the seat. To the left down corner! Thanks! = )
Hello ! I want to ask you, if you can me give the advice. Does fit the driver's seat from V70 manufactured 2001 to V70 manufactured 2004 ? And is it necessary after replacement to remove fault's report of the memory ?
Hey nice video. my connector White the 2 wires show 1.1 ohm and send 12 volt out .. and i get a fault. drivers seat signal to low ? Do you know what that could be.
@@sirobb i have only one plug Whit 12 volt. Just like the one you haver. But It send 12 volt out in the 2 Wire connector where you measure 1-5 volt ? Maby my module is broken.
Hi! Will this work on a Volvo C30? My drivers seat heater doesn’t work at all! I checked the fuses and they seem fine so I’m guessing this could be the issue ?
@SiRobb Nice one, but I have a puzzle for you. When I take a good working module from passenger's seat and put it on to a non-working one it suddenly stops showing any voltage on the plugs going to heat pads (small grey and green plugs) as if it was broken. And the other way round - allegedly broken module becomes fully operational on a previously working seat, starts feeding voltage to pad plugs. What would be the reason for that? Thermostat in a non-working seat? Is there a way to test it with a multimeter?
What you describe is normal behaviour. The module will initially attempt to supply voltage to the plugs but if it isn't happy with the feedback from the pads, the module will cease working. Your situation proves that both modules are fine and your problem is within the seat. You can resistance test the thermostat contacts in the base pad plug. The exact figure you get will depend on which part of the cycle the thermostat was on but a figure in the 000's ohms is ok. If you're getting 10's of thousands or higher, the thermostat may be damaged. What is the resistance of your pad wire plug contacts?
+SiRobb Many thanks for quick reply. On your video however you say that the module you were testing was giving output of reduced voltage of 3-4 V which indicated that the module was ok and this pointed to the problem with mats. I am not getting anything on output hence my thought was about the thermostat, which I will need to test as per your advice. Also the values I was getting quite different: pad resistance on both seats of approx 4-5 ohms (and one seat is working ok) and voltage on bottom pad of 12V delivered in impulses as you said. And one more thing - your vids are great help and I have done a lot of fixes already on my 2004 S60 thanks to you. Great job!
+ciuksza77 From what I've experienced, the module will initially show a voltage on a seat with defective elements but will then drop to zero on both pad plugs after a few minutes which is why none of the seat warms even if one pad has undamaged heater wires. Unfortunately, this isn't made clear in the video. Therefore the reduced voltage test is best carried soon after switching on the heated seat switches so get yourself set up ready with engine running and multimeter in place, then turn on the seats. You should then find reduced voltage from the module on the defective seat.
hi i am trying to fit the xc70 seats in a van but i am unable to find out what signal voltage is required from the car to the module down to activate both seat and back heater if you are able to help it would very much appreciated
Jon Woodvine The control system for the heated seats is pretty complex and not just a straight voltage feed. It's monitored and controlled by the Central Electronic Module "speaking" to the heater module under the seat so how you make that work in a non-volvo is anyone's guess. Sorry I can't help further.
Great video, I have the v70 and my heated seats are slow to heat but will eventually heat on both sides. Should I be looking at the CEM or do you think the problem is my modules?
Dr. Brian Adams Vida won't give an error for heated seats but it does allow you to adjust the temperature so check that first as it may have been altered. I think my high/low settings are 40°C and 37°C
Hi great video by the way. Quick question. Does the seat heater module control the air vents for that specific side. I.e. drivers side SHM failing therefore the air vents not giving cooled air while ac is on ? I've read on a forum about the above. My issue is the driver side always spits on warm air despite changing the control while the passenger side varies with control with or without AC on. Any would be appreciated Thanks in advanced
If the air quality sensor is faulty, it can corrupt other functions on the LINbus network linked to the climate module so either get a code read done using Dice and Vida or unplug the sensor to see if the climate system works again. It's located under the front scuttle so windscreen wipers will almost certainly need to be removed to access it.
Check the settings on your meter then as you should get resistance from the leads at least. A zero reading isn't possible if the meter is set up correctly.
Hey was wondering if you can help me the heated seat in my Audi a1 drivers seat is acting way different from the passenger side I have tried both, the passenger side heats up supper quick and gets really worm where as my drivers one takes ages to heat up and doesn't get as worm any ideas what this might be ? Thanks
+SiRobb See the seat I'm thinking it's not the Elliments because it gets really hot just takes a long long time could that mean it's something to do with the rheostat
Dear SiRobb I need your help and explanation. There are 3 wires, tho bigger size (RED and BLACK) and one yellow between them. Could you be so kind to tell what is the yellow wire in main power seat heating harness for.
Yes you can, but take very good care that the heated wire is properly scraped free of any enamel, coating or whatever is on there and also make sure the soldered part (where heaterwire runs parallel to new wire) is at least one centimeter long: if the soldered part has too high a resistance, it will fail again quickly, possibly with melting/fire... I did solder my broken heated seat wire, placed a 10cm long 1mm^2 thick copper wire inbetween the two broken ends and it has been perfect for some years now. (Volvo V70 P2). Getting the cover off the seat requires removing VERY sharp hooks: please take care not to hurt yourself!
It's exactly the same issue. That's the most common area for failing because it gets so much contact whilst driving and spinning round to get in and out. The other area is the centre of either seat base as people kneel on it when reaching in for stuff they've forgotten. I would strongly advise you look into yours soon. Good luck. 👍
+sirobb I finally tried fixing it today. Measured 1.6 Ohms before and 1.1 (minus the res in the leads) after the fix. Feels a lot better now. Hopefully it will last few winters. Thanks for the tut!
+sonnyman2000 That's great news. It may sound picky but a net figure lower than 1.0 is really your target but you're close enough to hopefully have solved your issue. Good work. 👍
This video helped me diagnose my Seat Heater issues on my V70XC. I hope it’s ok that I mentioned you in my video and included a link to this video in my video description.
ruclips.net/video/lp5PzWW7yFw/видео.html
Thanks for sharing! I got my seat fixed today following your method.
Time has come to fix drivers side, did simple diagnosis like in this video and came up with no continuity in bottom heater pad. Seat out, cover off and found burned off wire in left section. I Think burning off is caused by getting in getting out munching of the side of the seat, which leads to actual folding of heater pad. Then wire gets tangled in himself, heats up and burns off. Thats what happened in my situation. First try: tried connecting wires with simple wago 2way wire connector, which is all plastic. WRONG, dont do it. Seat heating maybe worked for the first 10second but no more. Next day checked for continuity in bottom heater pad- nothing. Seat out, cover off, and found this plastic wago connector all melted to one solid piece. Now wires are crimped with solid connection with wire crimper and seat heating is working since. Just my expierence. By the way: Doors shut, then open the trunk and wait until trunk light turns off, then disconnect the battery. It takes about 10minutes for it to shut off and its enough not to get SRS light on your dash. For V70 P26 at least.
That was great thank you from Canada jack
Great video. I managed to fix the seat heating, traced to 2 broken wires bin a loom. Still had to do calibration in Vida.
What calibration are you talking about, could you explain more ?
@@wilkas159 I'm also super curious...
very nice diagnostic video tx !
Great instructions. Thank you.
it was really helpfull. thanks !
+SiRobb, Since I grew up on a farm, I know that most agricultural stores sell hog rings & the hog ring pliers. They're fairly cheap. The pliers have notches to hold the rings while you squeeze them closed. However, with conventional pliers, applying the hog ring is more like a balancing act; close the ring before it turns sideways in your pliers.
Gordon302 Hi, thank you for taking the time to comment.
True, the pliers are easily available but they are a single use tool.
I never buy tools that serve one purpose unless it's unavoidable.
This wasn't one of those situations as cable ties work equally effectively for virtually free.
You’d think craft stores like Hobby Lobby etc would have these …. But nope!
No one in town ironically tractor supply in you guessed it … the Vet area had them 😂
In a pinch for sure check animal supply store
Can also use zip ties
Well done well explained 👏
+SiRobb, I suppose my point was that, since agricultural stores sell these pretty cheap, they're worth buying "if" you plan on reupholstering the seat & or properly replacing the foam yourself. I suppose if you're a farmer like myself, they are a multi-purpose tool; pigs & car seats.
Gordon302 In that case, if I buy a pig, they'll certainly be on my shopping list. ☺️
It's a shame these heated seats fail :(. Our mechanic is fixing ours soon! I'm guessing it'll fix the bottom but not the backrest heated seat
Thank you for this. Neither of my seat heaters work in my 02 V70. I checked voltage going in to controllers and it was good. Output was a different story though. On both sides only one of the two connectors showed voltage and it was steady at 1.2V. The other showed nothing. I’m guessing both modules have gone bad.
You talking so slow you put me to sleep!😴
pavel murza Not cool, what are you, a BMW owner?
Great video. Worked on my Volvo v70 same problem, different location. Still some questions...
Thank you for this video. I will check soon my seat. I have 07 S60 and in fact I have issue that you said can't happen, my passenger seat heats only back, not base.
Hi Sir Rob!
On my wifes v40 2013 I did exactly what you do in the video. It has the same “form” like the old volvos. So I tried to do some resistance measuring and my multimeter beeped when it has no problem, the seat pad did not beep and zero ohm. I assume that the wire totally broke. I also did a module change from the working passenger seat, no result. If i understand correctly, if one of the pad is bad the module fully stops the heating on the good pad also. Am I correct? (Could not measure any outgoing voltage under heating program. On the passenger side I got 5-9 volts constantly.) I guess i have to replace the pad 😅.
Thanks!
Hello man, thank you for explaining, module on driver seat is bad how i diagnosed, it has 15 volts input and outputs 0 on both pads, i will try to replace it with passenger seat module to see will it work..
Is it normal to have 15 volts to module? Maybe it went bad because od high voltage?
Hi SiRobb,
Thank you for the video and the really good explanation!
I checked both seats today and got the following results:
both seats get ~12-13 volts.
Resistance is fine with all pads.
Module 1 outputs 0 volts on both pads.
Module 2 outputs 3.7 volts and ~8 volts.
Module 2 installed in the other seat shows the same voltages (3.7 volts and ~8 volts).
The recommendation is probably to order two new modules, right?
Thank you very much!
What were all the resistance readings for the heater pad wires?
Sounds a bit complicated. The heated seats in my MX-5 stopped working and it was freezing cold so I just punched the centre console really hard and they started working again.
Horses for courses.
nice guide. very helpfull
This is not the video that was referenced on the main link. It said 2005 Impala.
Unfortunately I'm not responsible for external links.
The general troubleshooting in this video is still relevant for most cars though.
My drivers side seat stopped heating up followed by the passenger side a week or so later. Surely it’s too much coincidence that wires have broken in both 🤔 I’ve replaced both fuses but no change. Vida says “Right heater pad, faulty signal” and “Seat heater left, low signal” Both switches illuminate when pressed.
Click on the code in Vida and view information for possible causes and fixes.
I know this is an old post but when you showed the Burnt wire it still looked like the wire was unbroken? If it were unbroken what would be the reason to cut it and put the ceramic piece in just to reconnect the wire back to it? As I said the wire wasn’t even broken so I am not sure how the part changed anything
I'm not sure that you've understood the video.
The wire was still "connected" from a previous fix but that connection wasn't sound enough to give a sufficiently low enough resistance reading. Too high resistance will cause a hot spot and possibly worse.
The before and after resistance readings show the benefit of the much more secure ceramic connection.
Thanks
@SiRobb i have checked pads resistance is around 0.5 ohms, but it is rising by time and going over 1 ohm, voltage on module is 15 volts and outputs on pads are 0, tried switching the modules with passenger seat one and its not working, how do i know wich pad is bad and needs replacement?? Its Volvo V40 2013.
Hello, I also tried to fix the heating in the driver's seat, I soldered the wires where they were broken and now I get a resistance of 2.5 ohms, is it OK? Or do I have to look somewhere else if it's still broken? Thanks.
My dash board shows everything is working, heated & cooled seats on the dash are on. Still no heat or cooled feeling coming to both front seats. Any insight would be appreciated, what do you suggest? I have no burnt connections.
My Lexus seat heater light comes on but the heater is not working for either the driver or the passenger. Could I have a faulty relay rather than a problem with the heater itself?
If they both stopped at the same time, it's more likely to be a fault forward of the seats.
The first test I would do would be to put a multimeter on the fuses to see if voltage is making it that far.
My car is a 2004 Cadillac with the heated seats not working. The lights come on at the switches, but the module under each seat wil make a clicking noise about every 10 seconds. I just bought the car used so not sure if they went out at the same time or not. Does this sound like the modules under the seat are bad, or something else. Thanks.
It's difficult for me to guess your particular fault and not all heated seats have a module like in this video so it's just a question of you testing for voltages and resistance at the pad wires and working your way through the electrical system.
Basically everything in this video.
Does the Audi a4 avant 2005 have the same ? mine dnt work
My wont turn on, buttons dont light up what it can be, fuse are ok
Nice video..I have 06 Suburban--heated seat switch lights as long as you hold it but goes out as soon as you release it (both driver and passenger). Fuse is not blown--any advice?
Hi! Is it possible to use this in Saab 9-3 2008? It feels Im burning in some place. Also i have o hole in the seat. To the left down corner! Thanks! = )
Hello ! I want to ask you, if you can me give the advice. Does fit the driver's seat from V70 manufactured 2001 to V70 manufactured 2004 ? And is it necessary after replacement to remove fault's report of the memory ?
They changed mountings in 2004 so you would need to compare the seat mounting holes and SRS/seat heater wiring harness underneath.
So did you just clean it up, cut the wire and connect using ceramic block?
Yes. That simple.
Hey nice video. my connector White the 2 wires show 1.1 ohm and send 12 volt out .. and i get a fault. drivers seat signal to low ?
Do you know what that could be.
Does just one plug supply voltage to the entire seat or do you have more than one plug for the base and back?
@@sirobb i have only one plug Whit 12 volt. Just like the one you haver. But It send 12 volt out in the 2 Wire connector where you measure 1-5 volt ? Maby my module is broken.
man you take forever to explain. good explanation but took way to long
Hi! Will this work on a Volvo C30? My drivers seat heater doesn’t work at all! I checked the fuses and they seem fine so I’m guessing this could be the issue ?
If your problem is the same, the fix will be the same.
@SiRobb Nice one, but I have a puzzle for you. When I take a good working module from passenger's seat and put it on to a non-working one it suddenly stops showing any voltage on the plugs going to heat pads (small grey and green plugs) as if it was broken. And the other way round - allegedly broken module becomes fully operational on a previously working seat, starts feeding voltage to pad plugs. What would be the reason for that? Thermostat in a non-working seat? Is there a way to test it with a multimeter?
What you describe is normal behaviour.
The module will initially attempt to supply voltage to the plugs but if it isn't happy with the feedback from the pads, the module will cease working.
Your situation proves that both modules are fine and your problem is within the seat.
You can resistance test the thermostat contacts in the base pad plug.
The exact figure you get will depend on which part of the cycle the thermostat was on but a figure in the 000's ohms is ok.
If you're getting 10's of thousands or higher, the thermostat may be damaged.
What is the resistance of your pad wire plug contacts?
+SiRobb Many thanks for quick reply. On your video however you say that the module you were testing was giving output of reduced voltage of 3-4 V which indicated that the module was ok and this pointed to the problem with mats. I am not getting anything on output hence my thought was about the thermostat, which I will need to test as per your advice. Also the values I was getting quite different: pad resistance on both seats of approx 4-5 ohms (and one seat is working ok) and voltage on bottom pad of 12V delivered in impulses as you said. And one more thing - your vids are great help and I have done a lot of fixes already on my 2004 S60 thanks to you. Great job!
+ciuksza77 From what I've experienced, the module will initially show a voltage on a seat with defective elements but will then drop to zero on both pad plugs after a few minutes which is why none of the seat warms even if one pad has undamaged heater wires.
Unfortunately, this isn't made clear in the video.
Therefore the reduced voltage test is best carried soon after switching on the heated seat switches so get yourself set up ready with engine running and multimeter in place, then turn on the seats.
You should then find reduced voltage from the module on the defective seat.
hi i am trying to fit the xc70 seats in a van but i am unable to find out what signal voltage is required from the car to the module down to activate both seat and back heater if you are able to help it would very much appreciated
Jon Woodvine The control system for the heated seats is pretty complex and not just a straight voltage feed.
It's monitored and controlled by the Central Electronic Module "speaking" to the heater module under the seat so how you make that work in a non-volvo is anyone's guess.
Sorry I can't help further.
Great video, I have the v70 and my heated seats are slow to heat but will eventually heat on both sides. Should I be looking at the CEM or do you think the problem is my modules?
Dr. Brian Adams Could be a few things really.
Has it always been like this or did they once work better?
SiRobb they used to work better but now are slow. I have Vida I will have to hook up and check if the computer is throwing an error
Dr. Brian Adams Vida won't give an error for heated seats but it does allow you to adjust the temperature so check that first as it may have been altered.
I think my high/low settings are 40°C and 37°C
Hi great video by the way. Quick question. Does the seat heater module control the air vents for that specific side. I.e. drivers side SHM failing therefore the air vents not giving cooled air while ac is on ?
I've read on a forum about the above.
My issue is the driver side always spits on warm air despite changing the control while the passenger side varies with control with or without AC on.
Any would be appreciated
Thanks in advanced
What's your car and model year?
@@sirobb xc90 d5 late 2008
If the air quality sensor is faulty, it can corrupt other functions on the LINbus network linked to the climate module so either get a code read done using Dice and Vida or unplug the sensor to see if the climate system works again.
It's located under the front scuttle so windscreen wipers will almost certainly need to be removed to access it.
Did this work for you?
@@sirobb hiya...not gotten around to it just yet. Will report back when I do.
My heated seat in 07 silverado comes onext when I start it and I have to turn it off and then it comes on onew it's own
My 08 Silverado clicks on and then immediately shuts off
What did you do besides cutting the cable and putting it in a connector?
Khally That was all that was needed.
Heated seat fixes are often very simple.
Hi, im experiencing the same problem, seat pad doesnt work but i dont meassure anything, zero. What can be the cause? The seat back seem to be fine
You measure both Voltage and resistance so zero on what?
@@sirobb i meassure zero resistance on seat pad
Check the settings on your meter then as you should get resistance from the leads at least.
A zero reading isn't possible if the meter is set up correctly.
@@sirobb thank you for advice 👍🏻
I have it fixed today , i still had measurements at 0 even at 2000k Ohm settings so i decided to open the leather fitting,it was breake in wire 👍🏻
error causes the following error CEM-5B01
Hey was wondering if you can help me the heated seat in my Audi a1 drivers seat is acting way different from the passenger side I have tried both, the passenger side heats up supper quick and gets really worm where as my drivers one takes ages to heat up and doesn't get as worm any ideas what this might be ? Thanks
Hi, which of the tests from this video have you tried?
+SiRobb none 😂
+Liam Darling Oh.....
+SiRobb See the seat I'm thinking it's not the Elliments because it gets really hot just takes a long long time could that mean it's something to do with the rheostat
+Liam Darling You mean thermostat?
Either way, it doesn't matter if you haven't done any tests.
Guessing is expensive and time consuming.
Dear SiRobb I need your help and explanation. There are 3 wires, tho bigger size (RED and BLACK) and one yellow between them. Could you be so kind to tell what is the yellow wire in main power seat heating harness for.
gamer kids Life what car and year are you talking about?
Can't you just solder those two wires together?
Belgium Dashcam You could try but I doubt you'd be successful.
Yes you can, but take very good care that the heated wire is properly scraped free of any enamel, coating or whatever is on there and also make sure the soldered part (where heaterwire runs parallel to new wire) is at least one centimeter long: if the soldered part has too high a resistance, it will fail again quickly, possibly with melting/fire...
I did solder my broken heated seat wire, placed a 10cm long 1mm^2 thick copper wire inbetween the two broken ends and it has been perfect for some years now. (Volvo V70 P2).
Getting the cover off the seat requires removing VERY sharp hooks: please take care not to hurt yourself!
Nice video! On my S60 the right side of my buttocks becomes very hot whenever i have the seat heater on. Could it be the same issue as you had?
It's exactly the same issue.
That's the most common area for failing because it gets so much contact whilst driving and spinning round to get in and out.
The other area is the centre of either seat base as people kneel on it when reaching in for stuff they've forgotten.
I would strongly advise you look into yours soon.
Good luck. 👍
+sirobb I finally tried fixing it today. Measured 1.6 Ohms before and 1.1 (minus the res in the leads) after the fix. Feels a lot better now. Hopefully it will last few winters. Thanks for the tut!
+sonnyman2000 That's great news.
It may sound picky but a net figure lower than 1.0 is really your target but you're close enough to hopefully have solved your issue.
Good work. 👍
SiRobb
Yes, I think it's still a bit high as the base gets a lot hotter than the back, but at least it's useable.
i have a 2010 chevy camaro and the driver sit heater doesnt work
HI....CAN YOU TELL ME THE NAME OF THE PART AND WHERE CAN I BUY IT PLEASE?
AlAkRaN G. What part?
splice it, no soldering, then heat shrink. This terminal bs under the seat is not going to last
Richard Ellis BS?
This fix was nearly 3 years ago and still works perfectly so with respect, you don't know what you're talking about.