Now AvE Moses was a Canajun He lived by himself in the snow He Boltred tools for a Hobby He'd Knock em a-part with one blow Them clip board types gonna get you, AvE It ain't PC to keep yur dick in a vice , boy :)
I love that AvE gives things a fair shake. He could have just shit all over this because it's HF, and plenty of people would have cheered him on. Instead he gives us an honest opinion, and does solid testing. Well done sir, and much appreciated. Those of us who don't need professional grade equipment need this kinds of reviews.
I agree fully. Just because its cheap he doesn't automatically give a crap rating. The device may ultimately be rubbish but AvE will still tell you the things he does like. And at the end of the day, he pulls stuff apart so we dont have to.
Micro amps are very common for flame rectification. That is, measuring flame rod signal current on combustion safeguards. Important for HVAC troubleshooting.
I had an ache under my knee, so I thought I'd try the shop x-ray, but the image didn't come out as clear as yours. It was all black and blue. What model did you use?
I do like my bird and pickle shirt. Glad the big picture is on the back of the shirt, and not up front a la Superman. I wish we had a P.G. type shirt that could be worn in genteel society settings. Was thinking of a Canadian hockey team the "Angry Pixies" . Can someone come up with a picture of the mascot? Maybe with the words: "Keeo your stick on the ice!". Big picture on the back of the shirt, with a small "Cockford_Olly" on the front left breast. Crowd source anyone ?? Bob Stroud N.E.OH ,USA
I work a lot in Africa and mine has treated me pretty well and has been holding up pretty dang well. Not bad for the money, especially when you’re worried about tools growing legs and walking off.
The frequency inaccuracy with triangular wave has nothing to do with lack of RMS feature. It is having trouble with edge/peak detection to determine the frequency. Fluke is better at that. RMS comes in only when measuring the voltage value.
Hell, some places I worked, even possessing a meter, let alone knowing how to use it was exceptional. The HF stuff is fine for a lot of shops where "having a roof and walls" is considered a luxury. Last place I worked,the crappy "auto" DVOM they had shit the bed, so I grabbed my old Simpson 260. Ended up doing the testing myself, cause none of them knew how it worked, or how to read it. Ended up getting a few of those cheap HF DVOMs (the really cheap ones) and billing the business.
That trick for measuring current through the fork/clamp is awesome. Now I can get to properly test all those super low reading throughout my apartment. Thanks a lot.
The micro amps could be used to measure the current from a flame sensor on a modern furnace with electronic ignition. With too little output from the flame sensor the burners go out or won’t allow the furnace (burners) to start. A good tech nows how to eliminate this problem without changing parts, but, let’s leave that to them. I’m a retired HVAC Tech.
being a bc born and bread fella myself (front the sticks i might add) i have to say the vocabulary and fellow commenters just makes me happy, all these slang words i havent heard in years livin in the big city lol
I bought the Ames CL600 clamp meter for HVAC work about six months ago, and it works great. I always wondered what the difference was between the Ames, Klein, and Fluke. Very informative, and entertaining video, as always. Thanks.
This is a great video. Since I'm absolutely a Home Gamer, I decided that the great price of the Ames was going to give me what I need out of a multimeter. So I went to Harbor Freight today to pick one up. The had plenty of tickets on the shelf, but apparently they're out of the units themselves. They had lots of other Ames meters, but not this particular one, so I decided to hold off. My backup plan was a Craigslist ad I saw yesterday, for a Fluke 114. They retail for at least $120, but this one was "new in the box" (or so went the claim) and was $80, firm. I connected with the guy and we scheduled an exchange. He was a nice enough guy, but I couldn't help but notice that the box was not sealed, but rather taped shut. He sells items at flea markets, so he said he takes it out of the package so people can see the wares before they buy. Hmmm. OK. I wasn't sure if it came with batteries or not, so I bought one at the store where I met him. Of course, I could have just flipped the damn thing on, to see if it fired up, and it did. I've obviously been happy with the performance of the meter, since it's a solid piece of gear. But I noticed that the leads weren't the same quality as your 117. I googled the number that's on the leads and they're Fluke leads, but they're PVC. It looks like you can buy better leads from Fluke, but jeez... that was part of the whole point of me buying a Fluke in the first place. Anyway, then I come to this sticker on the unit. I didn't really notice it at first. It's a Techtronix sticker, with an ID, a serial number, a date (Sep 2015) and a "Due" date (Sep 2016). It also has a bar code, but my phone scan app isn't recognizing the bar code, so I guess it's proprietary. Anyway, I'm going to call Techtronix to inquire about this unit, just to make sure it wasn't stolen from them or something. It would not surprise me if it's stolen from somebody, and I'm just starting to feel weird about it. Now I sort of wish I had waited on the Ames to be restocked, or ponied up the cash for a legit new Fluke, if that's really what I want. Or heck, maybe I'm overthinking it, and I should be happy that I got a damn fine Fluke meter for a good price. Thoughts?
6:18 lead came right out of the source and the Fluke meter didn't change at all and then you stuck it back in the source while talking and it didn't change at all. What is up with that?!!?
The function generator can both source and sink current. The Fluke's input is high impedance with a small capacitive element so the input waveform is charging and discharging the capacitance through the positive lead of the meter. The Fluke is likely counting zero crossings of the waveform to calculate frequency so an accurate reference (common lead) isn't necessarily needed. The higher-end Flukes like the 289 can show AC+DC and Hz simultaneously so I'm wondering how a missing common lead would affect it.
My fluke will measure hz down to a few millivolts, more than sensitive enough it pick up a strong signal within a few inches. To this guy saying one lead is enough to charge a capacitor: No. To charge you need the current to flow "through" (quotes because current never actually goes THROUGH a capacitor, unless it leaks ofc) the capacitor. The other lead has to be close enough to capacitively couple (form a capacitor). A circuit must form with a high enough capacitance to allow enough current to be detecable above the background noise and rejection by the meter
They've really started to step up their game. Some of the new stuff is a great value. Some of it... well, it ain't too bad, quality-wise, but starting to approach the price-point of more established brands (brands that offer a real warranty.)
In automotive use cases we use something similar to the pickle fork, we use a ring magnetic inductive pickup thing. Perfect for measuring high current with something like a fluke 88 and testing alternators or parasitic draw
Long time watcher/follower, first time commenter lol. A suggestion for a future surgery, I saw Ryobi just came out with a new impact driver. Its called the quiet strike and it is supposed to use a "hydraulic drive". I figure that would probably be an informative tear down. Love your vidjeyos. -Glenn
For $60 USD (on Amazon) I bought the Mastech MS2215A which appears to be related. They claim 1000 A (yikes!) measurement capability with a full clamp design. It may be useful for diagnosing automotive starters. I just use it for 8 A air pumps on an Arduino project
I have a few harbor freight multi testers for basic electrical components and household voltage ( you know, the ones they give away for free sometimes). Well, I needed to change the romex from an outlet to subpanel it came. PROBLEM: I couldn't find the breaker, so, I shut main. Then decided to test, just for shits and giggles. AND BOOM, BIG SNAP AND FLASH. The IDIOT I bought my place from (he was a high voltage electrician ) wired this subpanel from where the power came into the breaker panel from main out on the pole instead of through a breaker. Luckily, it only melted the probes and blew the internal fuse. No loss even if it never worked again. But it did protect me. I never trust anything electrical around here. I love your test product videos.
Mr. AvE. Please do one of your famous reviews/bashing on the earthquake ratchet next! I’m very intrigued with this product and I would love to hear a your thoughts on it. I’m curious to see if she’ll let the smoke out!
I would enjoy a video on thermocouplers. I struggled to troubleshoot a udc3000 hooked to a type j thermocoupler. I overlooked the wire conecting them because it was a new install. It needed thermocouple extension wire not comunication wire but it tripped me up for almost an hour. Love the videos. Long time listener, first time caller.
A friend of mine asked me the other day, what osmelloscope should i buy? Well i said to myself, this is something that only AVE could answer. So what osmelloscope is skookum and which ain't work a $h:t?
I got a Rigol 1054zed. I like it, cheap and good. But you gotta decide for yourself, it's been out for a few years, might be something better... Try the EEVBlog or BigClive for o-scope reviews.
That’s a interesting clamps design. I think they are going for the any placement wire. Hoeing to get the same reading despite wear the wire is on the clamp. Some cheaper ones are more picky and need to be at a little line or arrow in the clamp. Neat. So does it only do AC on the clamp, or will it do DC also.
Looks like it's a rebranded Mastech MS2601, the PCB confirms it (says MS2601 on it). For those of us who don't live in North America and can't get one from Hazard Fraught you can get one of these from China for around 38-44 USD shipped compared to the regular 59.90 USD list price on Hazard Fraught.
one bad thing about the HF is that Current is between Voltage and Impedance. The FLuke Has Volts then Impedance. So the HF is at a higher of blowing up in your face due to current
I work in the HVAC business and we stopped using Fluke meters because the screens just don't hold up to the giant day-star that well, we have been using field piece and they seem to do the trick.
Have you ever used a Hytorc impact gun that is programmable. They are made in Jersey. I pass the place all the time and looked them up. Seems like they make some very high end tools. I'd love to see you review one.
One thing that turned me off of cheap meters is some will give bad readings when the battery is going dead. I wasted a bit of time troubleshooting to figure that out. Fluke just says give me a new battery. It would be interesting to know how it handles a dying battery.
Uncle Bumblefack, what’s your opinion on Fieldpiece, UEi/Klein meters? I quite enjoy using them as a heating tech. I want to try a fluke but the 116 is so expensive.
it is possible that they're sonic welding the components. the components are pushed against each other and vibrated until the contacting surfaces on the plastics melt.
Not the first time I've watched this video. I have this meter and compared to all my others, the supplied leads are the best I've found. The meters I use for Electronics projects are this one(Ames CM200A) and a CenTech 61593. The Centech's limiting factors are it only has a 1999 display and it's not auto ranging. My ideal meter would be a Centech 61593, but auto ranging and a 9999 display.
Prefer the ExTech MA220 that I have for the clamp meter as it'll do AC/DC. Use that thing to diagnose current leaks on cars typically. Beep isn't as loud, but it's good in every other way.
All meters have very similar accuracy. What you pay for is the quality of the tool - how it feels, how quickly it updates, and general usability. I've calibrated thousands of meters and this was my take home message from it all.
Probably something to do with needing more than 6 volts, but after designing/installing 4 batteries at 1.5 volts, things get a little weird on the design/build side, so 9v is the next step up.
Would imagine it's a case of needing a reasonably high voltage (relatively) at low current - lower than you'd get out of 4 AA batteries. These days with switching regulators you probably don't need 9V (well I know you don't, I use a Druck process calibrator that takes 3 AAs and outputs 24V for loop power) but they used it historically so they've kept it
You should do a review on one of those Snap-on multimeters. They charge a pretty penny for those and have comparable features to fluke meter's and even at there higher cost. I'd be very interested to see if it's build at least as good if not better built or if it's junk
That beep sounds a lot like my cheapo Amprobe meter. Does it have a backlight that can only be turned on by pressing and holding the "Hold" button? I bought the Amprobe in part because I didn't like that my Southwire meter did that, but I think they use the same damn chip!
Someone correct me here: 2.4v won't forward bias those ultra bright blue LED's that make our rooms look like rave-rooms this last decade. I think most needed the 5v range. Neither the Fruke or Aims will do this so it doesn't really matter, but it's something I have seen more than not. I really think I'm going to buy this thing. The Fruke 324 doesn't need to be in the general tool bag getting banged around and I don't always need the update speed. That loud buzzer sold me most of all...it tosses the flour on the moist spot so I know I'm in the right spot and he's right; I can't hear the fruke's most of the time with earhole plugs engaged. Backlit? I'll find out soon I guess
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Now AvE Moses was a Canajun
He lived by himself in the snow
He Boltred tools for a Hobby
He'd Knock em a-part with one blow
Them clip board types gonna get you, AvE
It ain't PC to keep yur dick in a vice , boy :)
very well done Bob!
Nice, I was wondering if anybody else knew Amos Moses.
Balaclava Bob Last thing I expected in an AvE video was a Jerry Reed reference. I like the remix!
Ahh thats good stuff balaclava bob
Named him after a man of the cloth. Called him AvE Moses.
I love that AvE gives things a fair shake. He could have just shit all over this because it's HF, and plenty of people would have cheered him on. Instead he gives us an honest opinion, and does solid testing. Well done sir, and much appreciated. Those of us who don't need professional grade equipment need this kinds of reviews.
cigr Well he didn't really test any of the safety ratings so it's only half solid
I agree fully. Just because its cheap he doesn't automatically give a crap rating. The device may ultimately be rubbish but AvE will still tell you the things he does like. And at the end of the day, he pulls stuff apart so we dont have to.
Word.
well said
@akbychoice No doubt. I bought the clamp on ammeter from HF and it was DOA. Never been back to HF since.
I didn't realize that I have been a x-ray technician all these years.
Jeffrey Bright shit pay but it's fun!
Something new to put on the resume.
That tone though! Don't do a continuity check in a hospital, lol. Nurses'll be running all over trying to figure out who's ticker gave out!
This is not X-Ray. This is a particle accelerator
diamened also known as the widelerizer
Fucking top comment. For those who get it
Spread some grease on the bench and you have your particle trails to interpret.
Micro amps are very common for flame rectification. That is, measuring flame rod signal current on combustion safeguards. Important for HVAC troubleshooting.
DC micro amps
Hence the "rectification".
waiting for a measurement.. = i get paid by the hour.. NO PROBLEM
Vollick I know , right 😄
that's why proper management will give you decent gear
Can always tell who's getting paid by the hour, they're the ones doin 5 under the speed limit in the company truck
Shoutout to Big Clive too!
His Shop X ray was labeled as such. Yours may be a knockoff.
I had an ache under my knee, so I thought I'd try the shop x-ray, but the image didn't come out as clear as yours. It was all black and blue. What model did you use?
sshuggi If at first you don't succeed just try a bigger X-ray. Clearly the exposure was off.
So much for getting to bed at a decent time... thanks AvE
Thanks from the back of the classroom, that RMS bit was a handy reminder
I'm wearing my Cockford Ollie shirt while watching this video. All is right in the world.
Paul's Garage hey, Paul
I do like my bird and pickle shirt. Glad the big picture is on the back of the shirt, and not up front a la Superman. I wish we had a P.G. type shirt that could be worn in genteel society settings. Was thinking of a Canadian hockey team the "Angry Pixies" . Can someone come up with a picture of the mascot? Maybe with the words: "Keeo your stick on the ice!". Big picture on the back of the shirt, with a small "Cockford_Olly" on the front left breast. Crowd source anyone ?? Bob Stroud N.E.OH ,USA
I work a lot in Africa and mine has treated me pretty well and has been holding up pretty dang well. Not bad for the money, especially when you’re worried about tools growing legs and walking off.
As they do, in Africaa
Was mid drink during the shop X-ray demo. Wasted that drink and now need some paper towels.
As I spend my working hours at Harder Frought, I appreciate the vijayos, let's me help the home gamers
Thanks to you, whenever I find myself suffering a deficit of attention, your voice pops right in my head with, "focus you fuck". Works every time...
Well, they raised up a son that could chew down his weight in groceries.
16:26 that's a MELF package it stands for Most End up Lying on the Floor.
The frequency inaccuracy with triangular wave has nothing to do with lack of RMS feature. It is having trouble with edge/peak detection to determine the frequency. Fluke is better at that. RMS comes in only when measuring the voltage value.
Hell, some places I worked, even possessing a meter, let alone knowing how to use it was exceptional. The HF stuff is fine for a lot of shops where "having a roof and walls" is considered a luxury.
Last place I worked,the crappy "auto" DVOM they had shit the bed, so I grabbed my old Simpson 260.
Ended up doing the testing myself, cause none of them knew how it worked, or how to read it.
Ended up getting a few of those cheap HF DVOMs (the really cheap ones) and billing the business.
The resistor package is MELF "Metal electrode leadless face"
Beware of the man who knows his packages!
May End up Lying on Floor
Naa. It's called a MILF. Google it.
I thought it was GILF... Google that and tell me if I'm right. supposed to mean something like "General Inline Leadless Face"
microamps is used to read the signal on a flame rectified flame safety circuit on many modern high and mid efficient furnaces
You should have used the "vice of knowledge"
That trick for measuring current through the fork/clamp is awesome. Now I can get to properly test all those super low reading throughout my apartment. Thanks a lot.
My OCD disorder still makes me cringe every time you say PCB board.
processing... processing... *slow clap*
Your "Obsessive Compulsive Disorder disorder" makes me cringe
speechless....
Kinda like saying, "Cheese Quesadilla"
"joke">"your head" @steve Foss
Love the big Clive style X ray
Failed the impact test.
Not sure if anybody else is doing these kind of breakdowns on this level kudos to you. Your videos are super interesting.
The micro amps could be used to measure the current from a flame sensor on a modern furnace with electronic ignition. With too little output from the flame sensor the burners go out or won’t allow the furnace (burners) to start. A good tech nows how to eliminate this problem without changing parts, but, let’s leave that to them. I’m a retired HVAC Tech.
being a bc born and bread fella myself (front the sticks i might add) i have to say the vocabulary and fellow commenters just makes me happy, all these slang words i havent heard in years livin in the big city lol
It’s pretty cool that the these massive multinationals are taking note of the ramblings of guys on RUclips and actually improving their products!
I bought the Ames CL600 clamp meter for HVAC work about six months ago, and it works great. I always wondered what the difference was between the Ames, Klein, and Fluke. Very informative, and entertaining video, as always. Thanks.
Damn, I was hoping it was a 20 minute video of you talking about the kind of pickle fork you use to separate tie rod ends and whatnot.
Grease boot? What? BAH! I just crawl under there every few days and slather on a new batch. Keeps it fresh.
CAT 6 and over is for the single ladies over 30.
Love how informed I get with watching your vids. Keep up the great work and the great humour
Great review, and highly amusing as usual. :-)
With tinnitus in both ears this on I can hear! 😊The beep of my fluke is gone (the beep is lost for my hearing) 😢
WHAT!?!?
This is a great video. Since I'm absolutely a Home Gamer, I decided that the great price of the Ames was going to give me what I need out of a multimeter. So I went to Harbor Freight today to pick one up. The had plenty of tickets on the shelf, but apparently they're out of the units themselves. They had lots of other Ames meters, but not this particular one, so I decided to hold off. My backup plan was a Craigslist ad I saw yesterday, for a Fluke 114. They retail for at least $120, but this one was "new in the box" (or so went the claim) and was $80, firm. I connected with the guy and we scheduled an exchange. He was a nice enough guy, but I couldn't help but notice that the box was not sealed, but rather taped shut. He sells items at flea markets, so he said he takes it out of the package so people can see the wares before they buy. Hmmm. OK. I wasn't sure if it came with batteries or not, so I bought one at the store where I met him. Of course, I could have just flipped the damn thing on, to see if it fired up, and it did. I've obviously been happy with the performance of the meter, since it's a solid piece of gear. But I noticed that the leads weren't the same quality as your 117. I googled the number that's on the leads and they're Fluke leads, but they're PVC. It looks like you can buy better leads from Fluke, but jeez... that was part of the whole point of me buying a Fluke in the first place.
Anyway, then I come to this sticker on the unit. I didn't really notice it at first. It's a Techtronix sticker, with an ID, a serial number, a date (Sep 2015) and a "Due" date (Sep 2016). It also has a bar code, but my phone scan app isn't recognizing the bar code, so I guess it's proprietary. Anyway, I'm going to call Techtronix to inquire about this unit, just to make sure it wasn't stolen from them or something. It would not surprise me if it's stolen from somebody, and I'm just starting to feel weird about it. Now I sort of wish I had waited on the Ames to be restocked, or ponied up the cash for a legit new Fluke, if that's really what I want.
Or heck, maybe I'm overthinking it, and I should be happy that I got a damn fine Fluke meter for a good price. Thoughts?
6:18 lead came right out of the source and the Fluke meter didn't change at all and then you stuck it back in the source while talking and it didn't change at all. What is up with that?!!?
I didn't notice that. Must be camera perspective; still touching the other lead somehow? Or just reeeeeally slow to update?
Capacitive coupling? Pixies still vibrating from one end.
it starts reading when he puts one lead in. capacitive must be enough for hz on fluke.
The function generator can both source and sink current. The Fluke's input is high impedance with a small capacitive element so the input waveform is charging and discharging the capacitance through the positive lead of the meter. The Fluke is likely counting zero crossings of the waveform to calculate frequency so an accurate reference (common lead) isn't necessarily needed. The higher-end Flukes like the 289 can show AC+DC and Hz simultaneously so I'm wondering how a missing common lead would affect it.
My fluke will measure hz down to a few millivolts, more than sensitive enough it pick up a strong signal within a few inches.
To this guy saying one lead is enough to charge a capacitor: No. To charge you need the current to flow "through" (quotes because current never actually goes THROUGH a capacitor, unless it leaks ofc) the capacitor. The other lead has to be close enough to capacitively couple (form a capacitor). A circuit must form with a high enough capacitance to allow enough current to be detecable above the background noise and rejection by the meter
Micro Amp is used in HVAC to check flame rod signals on gas burners.
Finaly AvE your back to teaching us about electronicals! Makes me want to have a hot supper with my better 3/4s. ;-)
Thanks again AVE for a good review! I'm finding some of the HF shit ain't tea bag for the home-gamer lately.
They've really started to step up their game. Some of the new stuff is a great value. Some of it... well, it ain't too bad, quality-wise, but starting to approach the price-point of more established brands (brands that offer a real warranty.)
In automotive use cases we use something similar to the pickle fork, we use a ring magnetic inductive pickup thing. Perfect for measuring high current with something like a fluke 88 and testing alternators or parasitic draw
Long time watcher/follower, first time commenter lol. A suggestion for a future surgery, I saw Ryobi just came out with a new impact driver. Its called the quiet strike and it is supposed to use a "hydraulic drive". I figure that would probably be an informative tear down. Love your vidjeyos. -Glenn
My “Welder’s Ruler” was delivered. Thanks again AvE!
Found this meter on ali under the make mastech model MS2601-1. It is more expensive than 35 bucks though.
Gotta wait for the double dip coupons!
For $60 USD (on Amazon) I bought the Mastech MS2215A which appears to be related. They claim 1000 A (yikes!) measurement capability with a full clamp design. It may be useful for diagnosing automotive starters. I just use it for 8 A air pumps on an Arduino project
Alan Welch .
The resistors are Melf Thin film SMD type. They come is different sizes 0102, 0204 and 0207.
I have a few harbor freight multi testers for basic electrical components and household voltage ( you know, the ones they give away for free sometimes). Well, I needed to change the romex from an outlet to subpanel it came. PROBLEM: I couldn't find the breaker, so, I shut main. Then decided to test, just for shits and giggles. AND BOOM, BIG SNAP AND FLASH. The IDIOT I bought my place from (he was a high voltage electrician ) wired this subpanel from where the power came into the breaker panel from main out on the pole instead of through a breaker. Luckily, it only melted the probes and blew the internal fuse. No loss even if it never worked again. But it did protect me. I never trust anything electrical around here. I love your test product videos.
what about the cheapo HF meters that cost ~5USD? the one that get thrown out if they last to the end of the battery life?
Thanks for the review AvE...love to see your impression of the chinesium fruke meters (15B+ and 17B+).
The blue thing is a MOV, starts conducting above some defined voltage, the green things are PTC's, they limit the energy if things go wrong
Every time I watch an AvE video, I learn a new word or two. Friggen rights!
Mr. AvE. Please do one of your famous reviews/bashing on the earthquake ratchet next! I’m very intrigued with this product and I would love to hear a your thoughts on it. I’m curious to see if she’ll let the smoke out!
The package of that resistor is called MELF. There are various smaller versions including MiniMELF and MicroMELF.
At 2:37 the screw for the cover is stuck to the end of the black and gray handled screw driver.
Yea AvE, I bought the Fluke 115 because of you. i do work on all types of power supply units for home gamer equipment.
wasn't amos moses left arm gone clean up to the elbow?
yep, word is an alligator done bit it off!
I would enjoy a video on thermocouplers. I struggled to troubleshoot a udc3000 hooked to a type j thermocoupler. I overlooked the wire conecting them because it was a new install. It needed thermocouple extension wire not comunication wire but it tripped me up for almost an hour. Love the videos. Long time listener, first time caller.
A friend of mine asked me the other day, what osmelloscope should i buy? Well i said to myself, this is something that only AVE could answer. So what osmelloscope is skookum and which ain't work a $h:t?
I got a Rigol 1054zed. I like it, cheap and good. But you gotta decide for yourself, it's been out for a few years, might be something better... Try the EEVBlog or BigClive for o-scope reviews.
FYI: Gas burner controls which use flame rectification for burner safety are checked using micro amps.
Howdy, Uncle B! Just dropping in to say how excited I am for you to have the new X-ray tech in the Empire of Dirt!
That’s a interesting clamps design. I think they are going for the any placement wire. Hoeing to get the same reading despite wear the wire is on the clamp. Some cheaper ones are more picky and need to be at a little line or arrow in the clamp. Neat. So does it only do AC on the clamp, or will it do DC also.
Does the high surface area of the small wires in the leads make a noticeable difference ?
Looks like it's a rebranded Mastech MS2601, the PCB confirms it (says MS2601 on it).
For those of us who don't live in North America and can't get one from Hazard Fraught you can get one of these from China for around 38-44 USD shipped compared to the regular 59.90 USD list price on Hazard Fraught.
They're MELF package resistors, usually used for diodes but also high power rated resistors
one bad thing about the HF is that Current is between Voltage and Impedance. The FLuke Has Volts then Impedance. So the HF is at a higher of blowing up in your face due to current
I work in the HVAC business and we stopped using Fluke meters because the screens just don't hold up to the giant day-star that well, we have been using field piece and they seem to do the trick.
Have you ever used a Hytorc impact gun that is programmable. They are made in Jersey. I pass the place all the time and looked them up. Seems like they make some very high end tools. I'd love to see you review one.
RUclips didn't notify me of this, and it wasn't on my suggested.. Had to go to your page to get it.
...... Silicon oil already leaching out of button pads at 19:35 ?
this fluke what i got sez cat IV does this mean i can go poke the lines have an impromptu barbeque mebbe
Like the fact that you are putting the Big Clive X-ray to good use...
One thing that turned me off of cheap meters is some will give bad readings when the battery is going dead. I wasted a bit of time troubleshooting to figure that out. Fluke just says give me a new battery. It would be interesting to know how it handles a dying battery.
Is there a way we can upgrade the Fluke speaker? I have an 87, and I agree with the tone being not quite loud enough
Uncle Bumblefack, what’s your opinion on Fieldpiece, UEi/Klein meters? I quite enjoy using them as a heating tech.
I want to try a fluke but the 116 is so expensive.
it is possible that they're sonic welding the components. the components are pushed against each other and vibrated until the contacting surfaces on the plastics melt.
*surreptitiously removes the probe wires from his Fruke....*
Thanks for another great vidjeo!!
Not the first time I've watched this video. I have this meter and compared to all my others, the supplied leads are the best I've found. The meters I use for Electronics projects are this one(Ames CM200A) and a CenTech 61593. The Centech's limiting factors are it only has a 1999 display and it's not auto ranging. My ideal meter would be a Centech 61593, but auto ranging and a 9999 display.
Great video, what is that tool you are using to point things out on the board and why is it coated in black schmoo?
The ames one with a fused input that seems to be more of a one to one to compare to the fluke 117 is only 10 bucks more.
Thanks for switching the com lead on the fluke so you could put the red and black on the same terminal... :O
Interesting, I'd be curious to know how the HF 1000A T-RMS performs next to the fluke equivalent.
Prefer the ExTech MA220 that I have for the clamp meter as it'll do AC/DC. Use that thing to diagnose current leaks on cars typically. Beep isn't as loud, but it's good in every other way.
I do believe Big Clive calls the shop x-ray "unreasonable force".
Some say... he really rather enjoys using it!
It's "brute force and incompetence"
Richard Hunter It's also VERY entertaining!
Looks like you got a keurig bellows air pump on the bench there.
All meters have very similar accuracy. What you pay for is the quality of the tool - how it feels, how quickly it updates, and general usability.
I've calibrated thousands of meters and this was my take home message from it all.
How about a review of the Klein MM 400 autoranging meter?
We use micro amps dc for checking thermal couples and piles. Thanks for the vids
so, what happens to this terror if you put mains voltage through the microamp input?
Thank you, thank you for finally removing the protective film from the display.
Why do meters always use a 9 volt battery? What is it about 9 volts?
Probably something to do with needing more than 6 volts, but after designing/installing 4 batteries at 1.5 volts, things get a little weird on the design/build side, so 9v is the next step up.
Would imagine it's a case of needing a reasonably high voltage (relatively) at low current - lower than you'd get out of 4 AA batteries. These days with switching regulators you probably don't need 9V (well I know you don't, I use a Druck process calibrator that takes 3 AAs and outputs 24V for loop power) but they used it historically so they've kept it
Peter Robbins Which is weird cuz cell phones are 5 volt
hey you A fecking lot of computers are 5V... Desktop computers were primarily 5V until the early-mid 00's.
Not sure I would want an 18650 in my watch, but they work fine to power flashlight, laptop, and car.
XRay device? Can't believe my Dad lied to me. He used to say, "this is gonna need the BIG screwdriver."
You should do a review on one of those Snap-on multimeters. They charge a pretty penny for those and have comparable features to fluke meter's and even at there higher cost. I'd be very interested to see if it's build at least as good if not better built or if it's junk
That beep sounds a lot like my cheapo Amprobe meter. Does it have a backlight that can only be turned on by pressing and holding the "Hold" button? I bought the Amprobe in part because I didn't like that my Southwire meter did that, but I think they use the same damn chip!
Is there a list of approved AVE harbor fleet products? And catch phrases ??
I find sometimes the diode check voltage also depends on the battery levels. How old is the battery in the fluke?
Someone correct me here: 2.4v won't forward bias those ultra bright blue LED's that make our rooms look like rave-rooms this last decade. I think most needed the 5v range. Neither the Fruke or Aims will do this so it doesn't really matter, but it's something I have seen more than not.
I really think I'm going to buy this thing. The Fruke 324 doesn't need to be in the general tool bag getting banged around and I don't always need the update speed. That loud buzzer sold me most of all...it tosses the flour on the moist spot so I know I'm in the right spot and he's right; I can't hear the fruke's most of the time with earhole plugs engaged. Backlit? I'll find out soon I guess
Thanks for the video Mr. AvE.
Big Clive has a shop X-Ray. and Ave has a particle accelerator
If this meter isn't that good, what would be the best Fluke meter to buy for automotive technician use?