I’ve been beatin on one of these for 5 or so years. It mows about 2 acres every couple weeks, and really overgrown grass (8” or so) periodically when I miss a mow. Steep inclines, bumpy uneven terrain. It did get left outside in the elements for a year or two for various reasons. It’s been very reliable and surprisingly durable. I’ve only had to change out the fuel shutoff solenoid, one deck belt, one deck tension spring, one set of blades because the originals were too trashed from me hitting gravel and branches, and ignition coil(plug wire was starting to fall apart probably due to water and sitting outside in the full sun). All those parts were 25$ or less each off Amazon. I change the oil once a year with 15w40 Mobil delvac 1300 that I always have on hand. Engine runs perfect, and the original battery lasted until this spring(about 5 years with no trickle charger). Nowadays I usually just lift the drivers side and put a piece of 2x4 under those wheels so the oil will mostly run away from the drain plug and not all over the frame, cover up the deck belt in case oil gets sneaky, wipe around the plug and pull it. Let it drain and wipe it off. I figure the frame of that side will never rust lol. I just run seafoam in my gas, 1 oz per gallon, 2 -3 oz per gallon the last month of the season and during storage. Except when I had to diagnose the fuel solenoid, she’s never failed me.
Wow, 5 years for the battery is really solid. I did a full review on mine and everything I had to do after 8 years of using it: ruclips.net/video/QXg_5uH-LH4/видео.html
Good to read, snagged a free one from a friend who had one sitting for about 2 yrs. Its for my 78 yrs old neighbor. Figured carb, belts, fuel, plugs etc. Basic counsumable parts and should be ready to rock.
I've got a 2008 model. Few batteries and several deck belts but other than that no problems whatsoever. Cant believe it still has the original drive belt. Lucky me.
I let my deck down and set my metal oil pan on top of my deck and tilt the other side of the mower up and I cut a drink bottle and shape it to drain my oil. Easy pesy!!! GOD bless!!!
You are providing a good service. Saving lots of people lots of money. Humm I’ll be dang I just learned something and I’m 60 years old . Turning the extension around backwards is news to me. One thing I’ll share with you is for you to save your empty bread sacks. Great for oil diving.
Use loctite on the end going in the block and you'll never need to use the pipe wrench to hold it. Also they make a oil drain replacement with a hose attachment that fits these engines, visit the local small engine shop and and pick one up and it will change the game.
Thank you! I had to move the steering rod to better get at the plug and thankfully I had the perfect sized wrench for it. Always keep your parents’ tools! Of course I didn’t get a drain sleeve with my mower but I rigged one out of a plastic water bottle. Now I’m going to check out your other videos as I continue troubleshooting.
Hey man. Just wanted to say thanks, this video taught me how to do this for our mower after dad passed. I'd have been clueless without it! Stay awesome, friend!
Wow. My dad passed on May 1st, and I'll be taking over the lawn there and yeah, pretty much same thing. Really sorry for your loss, but really glad to another good son/daughter willing to put the initiative into keeping stuff running good the way our dads would have liked. And thanks to the guys like this who make these videos for us.
@@hankleberry It's very much my honor, guys. Hearing things like this is what keeps me motivated to keep this channel going! Sorry for both of your losses but kudos for keeping up with the work ethic and maintenance of the property that probably has your fathers smiling down on you!
this will be my sixth season on this mower that I bought new at lowes for $800-875. I forget. Free interest paid over 18 months. It's given me little trouble. Oil. The oil is very cumbersome. I buy an oil vacuum pump that pulls the oil out. I've used that the last couple of seasons. When changing the oil, take note of how much oil you need to fill it. I believe it's around 2.5 quarts and you have to measure. Changing blade. This was my fault. Those bolt/nut holding the blades on turn in the opposite direction and if you strip that head out, it's hard to get off. And, you will have to special order replacement. It's recommended to remove the mowing deck which isn't that hard. You may find it doesn't want to clear but then if you drop it and move the engage lever, it gives you the slack to clear it. Lubing. This is what I'm looking at now. The steering is tight. I plan on using some grease on these point and then find the grease gun for the rear. I plan on rinsing out that area where the steering rod ends with water (very useful shot of how it looks). I left it sitting two days and we had heavy, heavy rain. A wren was building a nest behind the control panel and it was covered in debris where those gears are. Tips. This will mow down sprouts as in sprouting trees. The problem is it leaves what's called a stob. Basically, a the base of the sprouting tree it cut down. Run over that and you'll get a flat. Battery. This is where you want to go to an auto parts store. You'll pay more but it'll last for several years. In the winter, I put a trickle charger on it when I store it. Always disconnect the negative first. Always reconnect the positive first. Fuel line. This is the problem my brother in law had with my mother's yard machine which was by far the worst product on the market. A grain of sand or something got stuck in the carb and would push gas into the oil when it sat. That fuel tank does have some pressure to it. I put in a fuel cut off at or near the fuel filter. Some say with weed eaters and such to drain the fuel at the end of the season. I now hear it's better to leave the fuel in it as the seals won't dry out. Then dump your fuel and add fresh.
Lots of good tips here and I have a video on almost each of those topics. I also did a review after owning mine for 8 years and covered all the pros and cons: ruclips.net/video/QXg_5uH-LH4/видео.html
I just put a 5" iron pipe that fits the plug hole and cap it off. Now, I just remove the cap and the oil goes into a container. Replace the cap when it is done draining. No spills or messes again.
@@fixitFlip I bent it (steering rod) a little bit, and put a piece of rubber ( tire tube), taped it between the pipe and rod. The steering rod has enough play (wiggle room) that you should be able to get pipe between the rod and tractor body. I am experimenting on how best to avoid the wear between the pipe and steering rod with durable, soft material. May have to replace material between rod and pipe periodically. But, it's better than getting oil all over everything.
You're the first repair guy I've come across who works on the mower I have! These are great pointers and excellent info to have. Going to see what other videos you have on this machine to see if you have come across the problem I'm having. Thanks a bunch!
I have a Troy-Bilt Pony and the way I fixed mine is I purchased a 3/8 4 inch long nipple and cap then I disconnected the steering rod and raised the rod just a tad. Using Teflon tape on both ends of the 4” nipple, I screwed the nipple into the engine block. Then I reattached the steering rod (remember it’s now a tad higher than it originally was) and it clears the nipple. Changing oil is now a clean job.
Sir, thank you so mich for this very simple video. I snagged a free mower for my 78yr old neighbor and needs basics. Every oild change kit I found had a dam filter in it and I was all over it and could NOT find a place for it! I was about to loose my dam mind. Lmfao🤣🤣
Best mod is to install a Stens Oil Drain Valve and then when you want to drain the oil, just stick a length of 1/2" hose on the end of the valve and point the other end of the hose wherever you need it to go, then open the valve. No fuss, no mess.
Never used one personally. But I know some mowers come with them installed these days. I have heard several people say they leak over time. And that the plastic cracks sometimes. Drainzit is another option for around $20. Fumoto brass valves are great, but expensive. My fix cost $3. I trust brass over plastic. But not saying they wouldn't work just fine, because like I said. I've never used one. Just going off what I've heard.
Nice! I added an inline fuel filter & fuel shutoff valve to mine, & thought I was stylin'. I think I'll do this as my next mod, but use a 90 elbow out the bottom. I love seeing the brass instead of plastic parts! Do it once. Do it right! Thanks for the good info!
No problem. Yeah, I'm definitely a brass over plastic guy. Always wanted one of those Fumoto brass oil change valves, but they are like $45. I have thought about adding a fuel shutoff many times, just haven't gotten around to it. I thought about the 90 elbow, but it won't fit under the steering rod. There is hole in the frame you can possibly route it through with a couple elbows.
Just like the frame hole that is about 3 inches forward of the drain port i drilled with step drill bit and added a hole!! Then put a 3/8 in 90 deg elbow with hose connection and cap. Easy peasy now.
I have a Poulan lawn tractor that has the same exact engine. It actually has an adapter piece on it that lets you change the oil without using any tools. All you do is give it a turn and pull it out to release the seal and the oil starts flowing, you are even able to hook a hose up to the end of it. You could probably even buy one of these online and put it right on your tractor.
Yes, a Stens valve. They are pretty nice but definitely won't last as long as a brass nipple. Heard stories of people going out to a garage with a big oil puddle from them leaking.
I wish someone would update these videos to cover a 2020 pony. Totally different engine in the new models with oil filter. SOMEONE UP DATE THESE VIDEOS TO THE LAST COUPLE YEARS!!!
Thank you for this video. I have the Craftsman T110 version of this mower. I too made the same comment about the steering rod being right in the way! Wasn't impressed with the plastic oil extension spout. It seems like it should attach somehow to prevent leakage on the frame. Ended up not using it and just wiped oil off the frame.
I clean the area with brake clean then build up beads of sealants on the frame on each side of the plug as to orient the oil over the side of the frame. Similar to the plastic thing you ve shown. Tilting the machine on the rigth helps also.
Yeah sometimes I will park it in my back yard on a slope to help the oil drain, but it was windy this day, so I did it in the garage since I was filming. Interesting tip about the sealants!
If you drive up on a 2 x 4 that is under the front and rear wheel on the left side of the lawn tractor it will tilt the engine to the right and you will get better drainage of the oil.
If you take the steering rod and bend it at the existing bend slight more, which will raise it, the longer nipple will slide underneath the stearing rod and then an elbow and plug so it is clear of the frame. It does not affect steering.
Put a fitting in the plug hole that will accept a 3/8 hose that is about 6" long. Put a plastic shutoff valve on it and rig up a hose retainer clip to stash it out of the way when not draining the oil. Simply unclip the hose, aim the valve end into a jug and open the petcock. No more oil spills(unless your a nervous nelly😅. ???) Won't need that fluffy drip plate anymore. 😊
Can you make a video about putting a switch for the headlights so there not on all the time? I have the same troy built pony with headlights on all the time.
This is a very sturdy and well built mower. I thought I wouldn't like the foot operated speed control but after one use ruclips.net/user/postUgkxTZSPVwJFBv2hORqhQamtxi-tAe5K2EtC , I can't believe I ever had one without it. It drives like a car with an automatic transmission. Easy to adjust mowing speed according to grass depth/thickness. I have yet to get used to the long throw of the blade engagement lever but kind of get why it is that way. It allows you to hold mowing for short moments if you need. The engine seems very substantial and the frame has very little flex, both adding up to an impressive package. All my previous tractors were 18 to21 hp with 42in decks. This one is 23/46. I mow about 1.5 acres about every 5 days here in Alaska and that mowing time has been reduced by about 20%, partly due to the very tight turning radius. No loop arounds lol. Hour meter, cruise control, reverse mowing capability,deck cleanout and easy assembly all add up to a very well thought out tractor.
Yeah, that's a good idea that a few other people have suggested here in the comments. I thought about trying that! Might be tricky turning the 90 around to get it threaded with the frame kind of in the way until you could get it aimed down in the hole. But if that worked it would be genius.
No oil filter on the pony I actually have the exact same mower. It was in my house when I bought it and it wouldn't run I had to put a new carburetor on it and I put a new battery in it started right up no problem. I just put some new Gator blades on too. Cutting like a champ but I would like to change the oil. I just didn't see you mess with the filter so I figure there is no filter for this model? I basically taking the entire lawn mower apart and haven't seen one so I'm just going to do what you did. Looks good I'm going to get that nipple on there too for future ease!
Yeah I just changed mine again last week. The nipple definitely makes it easier. This little tip I do helps as well: ruclips.net/video/hxUnUHeVLr0/видео.html And you are correct, there is no oil filter on this model.
What I did is purchase a 4” brass nipple and cap. Then, using a wrench, I disconnected the steering rod, put the 4” brass nipple in the oil drain hole and reconnected the steering rod so that it doesn’t drag on the new nipple. It steers perfectly and I can drain the oil without making a mess.
I have been threatening to use 3 nipples, 2 elbows, and a quick drain on my Pony to get the drain through the hole in the frame forward of the drain plug. I think I will do that now!
the hood started to wear on the console body, so to fix that i had some 3/8" oxygen hose that i super glue it around the top of the corner on the console where the hood is rubbing i also insulated my new light bulbs he he police strobe lights front and back > i mow on the road and the dust make it hard for me to be seen> why i done that i went to AUTO ZONE got me's led lights / there cool. looks like small mustang tail lights
Got a mower 2nd hand that didn't have the drain plastic. . . what engineering genius thought it was a good idea to put an oil drain nut right over frame? Probably the same who say "Looks good on CAD!" and never actually saw if it was functional.
For the ones that are a few years old, that is correct. Mine is a 2012 model. I believe they just started adding an oil filter in the last year or two on one of the Pony models.
Flip, I slightly overFILLED my Pony42. It was easy to drain the oil using your tips the NEWER engines actually have a tool-less cap with an extension tube that makes OC neater. I was filling with 10W30 and put in a full quart and and less than 1/2 extra. The stick read just above the F dot. Upon cranking after oil settled and clean up, the engine BackFired once and wouldn't start! A small amount of oil sprayed on the tires and ground. Can you advise besides draining some oil out tomorrow and possibly cleaning spark plug? much thanks Lou Pony 42 in NY Capital Region
@@waynewise6711 I believe you have to actually take the seat off. It is held on with mounting bolt. The switch is up under the seat when you take it off.
It’s so weird. Our mowers look identical except in the spot where the drain plug is on your, there’s just a recessed square plug, like it’s not meant to be removed. I’ll probably have to use a siphon hose to change mine.
I recently had my mower break on me. It has the same mechanics to it like the one you are showing. When you let the handle down to engage the blades to go it was like something broke. The handle just goes up and down with no engagement. Do you have any comments on how to fix this?
Yea including me I didn't get mine and it was bought brand new still had the break in oil but now I figured I could use that oil extender like on most other mowers it does work and it does not cross thread mine came off a John Deer rider which all it's needs is a twist of of the black cap and oil comes out
@@fixitFlip well I kinda spoke to soon the treads match and it does go in but the treads are to long if I was to grind down maybe a thread or 2 it would be perfect fit but as of now it's hitting on the steering bar
I don't suggest adding potential leak points to any lawn mower drain plug. You've added two. The frequency of changing your oil outweighs trying to make it more convenient in my opinion
i got my double bar front bumper and trailer hitch in today from Ebay. both fits like a glove MAN cost 78 bucks> Only 6 bolts > Craftsman Universal Riding Mower Dual Bar Bumper
Nope not a one bro . plenty of hood clearance PERFECT All i did is 1 flat head bot in bottom back one screw in middle the other side . Start putting in the 3 flat head bolts and 1meat screw that is 2 ~ 1/2 " wrench and a 2 ~ 3/19 wrench all the tool used he hee never look at the instructions 10 min i was done
this is the trailer hitch for the Pony it very strong brother its on Ebay UNIVERSAL LAWN GARDEN TRACTOR HITCH WITH SUPPORT BRACE KIT INCLUDED > yes i had to drill 2 hole for the brace BE SURE TO PUT 2 washer between the brace and front plate on the tractor it fills in the molded metal ok the 2 washer bring the brace out even to the molded metal When you put it on will see what i'am talken about i use the double Y brace for more support 10 min i was done
No problem and check out all the videos on my channel! I've got a whole lawn mower playlist with at least 12 videos about this exact lawn mower. I pretty much cover every type of maintenance there is.
You found a good Subject to show ok, lot of us are getting the pony and troy built produces ok Keep up the good work ! YOU make excellent video OK cheers man
I’m a first time riding mower owner, I bought a 46” Troy bilt hydro horse 20hp. Can you please tell me which filter and oil I should buy? Thank you for the vids
www.troybilt.com/en_US/operatorsmanuals Here's a site where you can type in the serial number of your mower and download a manual. Or tell me what exact engine it has and I can help you find it.
@@No_cap_yo Your model number should be right under the seat. In this video I show you where the model number is: ruclips.net/video/QXg_5uH-LH4/видео.html
Thanks for answering my questions btw. So mine has two different areas with two different serial and model numbers. The one I provided is from under the seat and then there’s one on the engine that’s different than the one under the seat. It has a Kholer engine.
@@No_cap_yo Yes, the Kholer engine will have its own model number, and actually the manual for this would be your best resource for changing the oil. The Troy Bilt manuals will sometimes just tell you to refer to your engine manual. The model number under the seat is for the mower.
I don't believe that the pipe wrench is going to grip the brass pipe in the position shown if you are trying to loosen the cap. It will have to be reversed for the teeth to bite into the pipe . . . but unfortunately the wrench doesn't have room to go in from the other side. Probably going to have to grip it with channellocks or vice grips.
You are correct. I was just holding the pipe wrench up in the wrong position. Was just trying to demonstrate what tool to use. But the truth is I took that cap off many, many times after making this video without even needing the pipe wrench. I just put the nipple in tighter than the cap was on, and I have never had any issues.
@@fixitFlip My Troy-bilt Super Bronco XP got it's oil changed yesterday . . . what a mess! It only has a drain plug and there is no gap under the plug to insert anything to channel the oil. I put a 8x8x16" cinder block under the back wheel thinking it would give it plenty of slope to drain the oil just across the frame . . . nope. It went everywhere . . . all over the drive pully assembly and into places I couldn't even imagine it could go with it at a 20% angle. The wiring harness is in the way to put a pipe coming out of drain hole. Would have to reroute the wiring. Probably easier to just clean up the mess each time.
why is the bottom of my engine leaking, I can't find out from where the oil leak originates however. it's leaks down onto the 2nd bigger lower pulley, not leaking on the smaller top pulley on the dual pulley shaft, so it's not coming from the lower engine crankcase seal. So do I have to remove the engine to see if there is a hairline crack or something,.... it is a 2001 lawn tractor from MTD but the engine runs great, but the oil leak drips down and gets all over the V-belt and ruins it and splashes oil everywhere under there.
I do as well. But when I make a video I try to just assume people have no idea what they are doing and put all the precautions in there. I realize the chances are very very small.
@@fixitFlip Unfortunately that type of Overkill is necessary these days. Kind of like required Warning Labels telling people the TIDE PODS are NOT for Human Consumption. Makes you despair the Species! :P
The 42" deck belt for a troy bilt pony year 2019 and 20 >>> 1/2" x 96" long OK the same engagement cable also. Parts # QSH - 0453 OEM NO- 746-04092 cable --- > Keep 2 of each on hand. This may not be the same on older models
I can tell you there isn't much out there at all right now. The HD by me just got a few TB Ponies in, but that's about it. John Deere is currently not shipping their 100 series to dealers due to supply chain issues and I haven't seen any Cub Cadets anywhere. My Pony has lasted 10 years now with no major issues.
@@fixitFlip Thanks for the response. Might just buy a used Toro 22 mower and wait. Maybe get a new ride on over winter or next season. Inflation and supply chain issues and associates costs are too much for me.
Maybe I missed but I didn't hear what size socket? Oh I just heard it. I think 9/16 seems to fit mine, but I need to go get a ratchet then I'll try. 7/16 socket definitely didn't fit.
@@fixitFlip Oh OK, I got you, the female end. Do you Know what size drive was the extension (1/4, 3/8, or 1/2")? Yes I too noticed that it was square which was quite odd.
My 1985 Roper came with the pipe like that from The factory it’s a 3 inch pipe then it has an L band facing down with a plug it’s nice I change my oil every two or three times I use the lawnmower I don’t care at three dollars a quarter for STP shit
For anyone who could help me. I'm helping a friend of mine get their troybilt TB 46 rider ready for the mowing season. It's a hydrostatic rider. It's got a 547cc overhead valve engine. They don't have a book with this rider. First ?...is this engine a Briggs and Stratton? Second ?...about how much oil will this rider take? Thankyou ahead of time to anyone who replies
I’ve been beatin on one of these for 5 or so years. It mows about 2 acres every couple weeks, and really overgrown grass (8” or so) periodically when I miss a mow. Steep inclines, bumpy uneven terrain. It did get left outside in the elements for a year or two for various reasons. It’s been very reliable and surprisingly durable. I’ve only had to change out the fuel shutoff solenoid, one deck belt, one deck tension spring, one set of blades because the originals were too trashed from me hitting gravel and branches, and ignition coil(plug wire was starting to fall apart probably due to water and sitting outside in the full sun). All those parts were 25$ or less each off Amazon. I change the oil once a year with 15w40 Mobil delvac 1300 that I always have on hand. Engine runs perfect, and the original battery lasted until this spring(about 5 years with no trickle charger). Nowadays I usually just lift the drivers side and put a piece of 2x4 under those wheels so the oil will mostly run away from the drain plug and not all over the frame, cover up the deck belt in case oil gets sneaky, wipe around the plug and pull it. Let it drain and wipe it off. I figure the frame of that side will never rust lol. I just run seafoam in my gas, 1 oz per gallon, 2 -3 oz per gallon the last month of the season and during storage. Except when I had to diagnose the fuel solenoid, she’s never failed me.
Wow, 5 years for the battery is really solid. I did a full review on mine and everything I had to do after 8 years of using it: ruclips.net/video/QXg_5uH-LH4/видео.html
Good to read, snagged a free one from a friend who had one sitting for about 2 yrs. Its for my 78 yrs old neighbor. Figured carb, belts, fuel, plugs etc. Basic counsumable parts and should be ready to rock.
I've got a 2008 model. Few batteries and several deck belts but other than that no problems whatsoever. Cant believe it still has the original drive belt. Lucky me.
Ha ha, that's great. I did finally have to change my drive belts a couple years ago. I did a video on that as well.
Put a couple of 2x4 blocks under the wheels opposite side. Tilts the tractor and less oil mess.
Yeah I have done this exact thing with a couple paver stones before when I do it in the grass.
I let my deck down and set my metal oil pan on top of my deck and tilt the other side of the mower up and I cut a drink bottle and shape it to drain my oil. Easy pesy!!! GOD bless!!!
I've used a water bottle before, too. Thanks!
You are providing a good service. Saving lots of people lots of money. Humm I’ll be dang I just learned something and I’m 60 years old . Turning the extension around backwards is news to me.
One thing I’ll share with you is for you to save your empty bread sacks. Great for oil diving.
Good tip!
Use loctite on the end going in the block and you'll never need to use the pipe wrench to hold it. Also they make a oil drain replacement with a hose attachment that fits these engines, visit the local small engine shop and and pick one up and it will change the game.
Great idea on the loctite! And yes those drainzit hoses are nice.
Thank you! I had to move the steering rod to better get at the plug and thankfully I had the perfect sized wrench for it. Always keep your parents’ tools! Of course I didn’t get a drain sleeve with my mower but I rigged one out of a plastic water bottle. Now I’m going to check out your other videos as I continue troubleshooting.
Water bottle is a good idea. I have used a cut up oil bottle as well like in this video: ruclips.net/video/hxUnUHeVLr0/видео.html
Hey man. Just wanted to say thanks, this video taught me how to do this for our mower after dad passed. I'd have been clueless without it! Stay awesome, friend!
Thanks so much for the kind words and very glad I could help! Have a great weekend!
Wow. My dad passed on May 1st, and I'll be taking over the lawn there and yeah, pretty much same thing. Really sorry for your loss, but really glad to another good son/daughter willing to put the initiative into keeping stuff running good the way our dads would have liked. And thanks to the guys like this who make these videos for us.
@@hankleberry It's very much my honor, guys. Hearing things like this is what keeps me motivated to keep this channel going! Sorry for both of your losses but kudos for keeping up with the work ethic and maintenance of the property that probably has your fathers smiling down on you!
A mower is like a computer! Got to work on it and clean it up > Love they way you take care of your stuff! Save the oil for your chain saw oiler!
That’s right, Bee! Good tip! 🐝
Thank you soooo much. I'm 68, and always making a mess. You have just made my life easier.. Thanks again.
No problem. That's what I love to hear, glad I could help!
this will be my sixth season on this mower that I bought new at lowes for $800-875. I forget. Free interest paid over 18 months. It's given me little trouble.
Oil. The oil is very cumbersome. I buy an oil vacuum pump that pulls the oil out. I've used that the last couple of seasons. When changing the oil, take note of how much oil you need to fill it. I believe it's around 2.5 quarts and you have to measure.
Changing blade. This was my fault. Those bolt/nut holding the blades on turn in the opposite direction and if you strip that head out, it's hard to get off. And, you will have to special order replacement. It's recommended to remove the mowing deck which isn't that hard. You may find it doesn't want to clear but then if you drop it and move the engage lever, it gives you the slack to clear it.
Lubing. This is what I'm looking at now. The steering is tight. I plan on using some grease on these point and then find the grease gun for the rear. I plan on rinsing out that area where the steering rod ends with water (very useful shot of how it looks). I left it sitting two days and we had heavy, heavy rain. A wren was building a nest behind the control panel and it was covered in debris where those gears are.
Tips. This will mow down sprouts as in sprouting trees. The problem is it leaves what's called a stob. Basically, a the base of the sprouting tree it cut down. Run over that and you'll get a flat.
Battery. This is where you want to go to an auto parts store. You'll pay more but it'll last for several years. In the winter, I put a trickle charger on it when I store it. Always disconnect the negative first. Always reconnect the positive first.
Fuel line. This is the problem my brother in law had with my mother's yard machine which was by far the worst product on the market. A grain of sand or something got stuck in the carb and would push gas into the oil when it sat. That fuel tank does have some pressure to it. I put in a fuel cut off at or near the fuel filter.
Some say with weed eaters and such to drain the fuel at the end of the season. I now hear it's better to leave the fuel in it as the seals won't dry out. Then dump your fuel and add fresh.
Lots of good tips here and I have a video on almost each of those topics. I also did a review after owning mine for 8 years and covered all the pros and cons: ruclips.net/video/QXg_5uH-LH4/видео.html
I just put a 5" iron pipe that fits the plug hole and cap it off. Now, I just remove the cap and the oil goes into a container. Replace the cap when it is done draining. No spills or messes again.
How did you avoid the steering rod that's in the way?
@@fixitFlip I bent it (steering rod) a little bit, and put a piece of rubber ( tire tube), taped it between the pipe and rod. The steering rod has enough play (wiggle room) that you should be able to get pipe between the rod and tractor body. I am experimenting on how best to avoid the wear between the pipe and steering rod with durable, soft material. May have to replace material between rod and pipe periodically. But, it's better than getting oil all over everything.
@@jameshixson4770 That's pretty cool. I like that idea. I'm curious to hear how it holds up over time. Keep me posted.
You're the first repair guy I've come across who works on the mower I have! These are great pointers and excellent info to have. Going to see what other videos you have on this machine to see if you have come across the problem I'm having. Thanks a bunch!
I have LOTS of videos on this machine! A whole playlist. :)
@@fixitFlip oo lol
I've got a 2023 model ,"Pony". But mine has a 15.5 HP motor. Works great.
Yeah the horsepower has gone down last few years. Glad its working well.
I have a Troy-Bilt Pony and the way I fixed mine is I purchased a 3/8 4 inch long nipple and cap then I disconnected the steering rod and raised the rod just a tad. Using Teflon tape on both ends of the 4” nipple, I screwed the nipple into the engine block. Then I reattached the steering rod (remember it’s now a tad higher than it originally was) and it clears the nipple. Changing oil is now a clean job.
Nice job and smart thinking 👍🏻
How did you make the steering rod higher? And then reattach?
Sir, thank you so mich for this very simple video. I snagged a free mower for my 78yr old neighbor and needs basics. Every oild change kit I found had a dam filter in it and I was all over it and could NOT find a place for it! I was about to loose my dam mind. Lmfao🤣🤣
Ha ha, yeah these older ones don't have one. Troy Bilt just started adding them the last few years!
i have the same mower. i disconnected my headlights to help save the battery life.
a magnet will help you fish out the drain plug. great video!
Ha, two good ideas! And thank you!
No wonder I couldn't see the filter....1st time changing mower oil. Your video was extremely helpful. Thumbs up.
Great, glad I could help!
Does it not have an oil filter?
Best mod is to install a Stens Oil Drain Valve and then when you want to drain the oil, just stick a length of 1/2" hose on the end of the valve and point the other end of the hose wherever you need it to go, then open the valve. No fuss, no mess.
Never used one personally. But I know some mowers come with them installed these days. I have heard several people say they leak over time. And that the plastic cracks sometimes. Drainzit is another option for around $20. Fumoto brass valves are great, but expensive. My fix cost $3. I trust brass over plastic. But not saying they wouldn't work just fine, because like I said. I've never used one. Just going off what I've heard.
Use "Anti-Seize Lubricant " on the threads when replacing the nut holding the blade on. Makes the blade nut very easier to remove every time.
Yep, that definitely helps.
Nice!
I added an inline fuel filter & fuel shutoff valve to mine, & thought I was stylin'.
I think I'll do this as my next mod, but use a 90 elbow out the bottom.
I love seeing the brass instead of plastic parts!
Do it once.
Do it right!
Thanks for the good info!
No problem. Yeah, I'm definitely a brass over plastic guy. Always wanted one of those Fumoto brass oil change valves, but they are like $45. I have thought about adding a fuel shutoff many times, just haven't gotten around to it. I thought about the 90 elbow, but it won't fit under the steering rod. There is hole in the frame you can possibly route it through with a couple elbows.
Fix it Flip ;
Okay. Good to know.
Thanks again!
Just like the frame hole that is about 3 inches forward of the drain port i drilled with step drill bit and added a hole!! Then put a 3/8 in 90 deg elbow with hose connection and cap. Easy peasy now.
I was gonna fabricate and weld up a bent linkage arm for the steering but this was easier..
I love it man. Sounds legit. I considered the same thing. I don't understand why it doesn't come with a hole right there!
@@fixitFlip did a quick video with some photos. ruclips.net/video/pE4FPR5IQGE/видео.html
I have a Poulan lawn tractor that has the same exact engine. It actually has an adapter piece on it that lets you change the oil without using any tools. All you do is give it a turn and pull it out to release the seal and the oil starts flowing, you are even able to hook a hose up to the end of it. You could probably even buy one of these online and put it right on your tractor.
Yes, a Stens valve. They are pretty nice but definitely won't last as long as a brass nipple. Heard stories of people going out to a garage with a big oil puddle from them leaking.
Mine didn't come with the sleeve. I cut a vertical section out of a plastic McDonald's cup and it works pretty good. Thanks for the tips.
No problem and good idea. In this video I show how you can use an old oil bottle to make a drain sleeve: ruclips.net/video/hxUnUHeVLr0/видео.html
Thanks for all your tips and tricks! You’re seriously helping this single gal figure this stuff out! Very much appreciated!
No problem and glad I could help!!
I wish someone would update these videos to cover a 2020 pony. Totally different engine in the new models with oil filter.
SOMEONE UP DATE THESE VIDEOS TO THE LAST COUPLE YEARS!!!
Ha! If Troy-Bilt would like to send me a new mower I would be happy to.
Thank you for this video. I have the Craftsman T110 version of this mower. I too made the same comment about the steering rod being right in the way! Wasn't impressed with the plastic oil extension spout. It seems like it should attach somehow to prevent leakage on the frame. Ended up not using it and just wiped oil off the frame.
Yeah I don’t blame you. Both made by MTD. A ton of them have the same setup like this.
I clean the area with brake clean then build up beads of sealants on the frame on each side of the plug as to orient the oil over the side of the frame. Similar to the plastic thing you ve shown. Tilting the machine on the rigth helps also.
Yeah sometimes I will park it in my back yard on a slope to help the oil drain, but it was windy this day, so I did it in the garage since I was filming. Interesting tip about the sealants!
And here's another little trick I use to get the oil over the frame.
ruclips.net/video/hxUnUHeVLr0/видео.html
If you drive up on a 2 x 4 that is under the front and rear wheel on the left side of the lawn tractor it will tilt the engine to the right and you will get better drainage of the oil.
Yeah, I have done this trick with paver stones before.
If you take the steering rod and bend it at the existing bend slight more, which will raise it, the longer nipple will slide underneath the stearing rod and then an elbow and plug so it is clear of the frame. It does not affect steering.
Another guy was just suggesting that to me yesterday. Sounds like a good idea. (Why couldn't MTD just make the rod that way, ya know.)
Put a fitting in the plug hole that will accept a 3/8 hose that is about 6" long. Put a plastic shutoff valve on it and rig up a hose retainer clip to stash it out of the way when not draining the oil. Simply unclip the hose, aim the valve end into a jug and open the petcock. No more oil spills(unless your a nervous nelly😅. ???) Won't need that fluffy drip plate anymore. 😊
Yeah, they make a hose called a Drainzit hose that works just like that.
@@fixitFlip typical...I dream up stuff and someone else a beat me to it. 😂
@@mauricepowers8079 Ha ha, they are a pretty neat little invention, so good thinking, ha ha: amzn.to/40iMidS
Simple, but thorough, video. I like that you go step by step.
Thanks, glad I could help!
I removed the nut on the steering rod which allowed me to lift the rod up out of the way a good bit. Love the videos and tips! I'm subscribed.
I like that idea. Thanks for the subscribe!
or you could just say FUCK ALL THAT BULLSHIT and get a John Deere ruclips.net/video/PnhFMsBR-b0/видео.html
@@mrbubetube that's an idea... but sometimes you get what you get :)
getting that steering rod out of the way makes it a lot easier to access. great idea
Can you make a video about putting a switch for the headlights so there not on all the time? I have the same troy built pony with headlights on all the time.
This is a very sturdy and well built mower. I thought I wouldn't like the foot operated speed control but after one use ruclips.net/user/postUgkxTZSPVwJFBv2hORqhQamtxi-tAe5K2EtC , I can't believe I ever had one without it. It drives like a car with an automatic transmission. Easy to adjust mowing speed according to grass depth/thickness. I have yet to get used to the long throw of the blade engagement lever but kind of get why it is that way. It allows you to hold mowing for short moments if you need. The engine seems very substantial and the frame has very little flex, both adding up to an impressive package. All my previous tractors were 18 to21 hp with 42in decks. This one is 23/46. I mow about 1.5 acres about every 5 days here in Alaska and that mowing time has been reduced by about 20%, partly due to the very tight turning radius. No loop arounds lol. Hour meter, cruise control, reverse mowing capability,deck cleanout and easy assembly all add up to a very well thought out tractor.
👍🏻
Thanks ..... holds 44 oz
No problem.
Good video... When you put your brass nip in you could have used a 90 and went over to the hole in the frame... Just a tip
Yeah, that's a good idea that a few other people have suggested here in the comments. I thought about trying that! Might be tricky turning the 90 around to get it threaded with the frame kind of in the way until you could get it aimed down in the hole. But if that worked it would be genius.
No oil filter on the pony I actually have the exact same mower. It was in my house when I bought it and it wouldn't run I had to put a new carburetor on it and I put a new battery in it started right up no problem. I just put some new Gator blades on too. Cutting like a champ but I would like to change the oil. I just didn't see you mess with the filter so I figure there is no filter for this model? I basically taking the entire lawn mower apart and haven't seen one so I'm just going to do what you did. Looks good I'm going to get that nipple on there too for future ease!
Yeah I just changed mine again last week. The nipple definitely makes it easier. This little tip I do helps as well: ruclips.net/video/hxUnUHeVLr0/видео.html
And you are correct, there is no oil filter on this model.
@@fixitFlip - No oil filter means never needing to do anything? What filters oil particulate? Or should I not be concerned? Thanks. Great video.
@@noskydaddy21 Thanks! You just keep the oil changed on a regular basis and it will be fine. Some smaller engines are like this.
Ever thought of installing a drain tube? Mine came stock and makes that part of it much more enjoyable.
Yeah I have thought about it. I like those "drainzit" hoses. The brass nipple I put in is just a little cheaper and I know it will last forever.
What I did is purchase a 4” brass nipple and cap. Then, using a wrench, I disconnected the steering rod, put the 4” brass nipple in the oil drain hole and reconnected the steering rod so that it doesn’t drag on the new nipple. It steers perfectly and I can drain the oil without making a mess.
How does the steering rod not hit the nipple after you reconnected it?
Please explain how to reattach rod? Does it go right back where it was?
I love your videos. They are a huge help to those of us that lack mechanical common sense...lol
Ha ha, well great, glad I could help!
I have been threatening to use 3 nipples, 2 elbows, and a quick drain on my Pony to get the drain through the hole in the frame forward of the drain plug. I think I will do that now!
I like that. Hit it with all the body parts.
the hood started to wear on the console body, so to fix that i had some 3/8" oxygen hose that i super glue it around the top of the corner on the console where the hood is rubbing i also insulated my new light bulbs he he police strobe lights front and back > i mow on the road and the dust make it hard for me to be seen> why i done that i went to AUTO ZONE got me's led lights / there cool. looks like small mustang tail lights
Got a mower 2nd hand that didn't have the drain plastic. . . what engineering genius thought it was a good idea to put an oil drain nut right over frame? Probably the same who say "Looks good on CAD!" and never actually saw if it was functional.
And put it right behind a steering rod!
For the life of me I can't find the oil filter..i guess there isn't one?
There is NOT one on these models. Troy-Bilt did just recently start adding them the last couple years.
I had a 10mm hex/allen wrench that I would never use, so I ground it square to fit.
It didn't require much modification.
That's pretty smart!
Not sure I understand.. The Drain Plug has a square Male end.. an Allen Wrench/key has a male Hex shape. how did that fit?
When I purchased my Troy bilt mower it did not come with the drain sleeve. I called Troy Bilt and they sent me one at no charge.
That's good customer service.
Did I hear right, that the Troy Bilt pony doesn't have an oil filter?
Thanks for the video
For the ones that are a few years old, that is correct. Mine is a 2012 model. I believe they just started adding an oil filter in the last year or two on one of the Pony models.
You could see if fumoto makes a valve that fits the thread pitch. You'll probably need an extension though
Yeah, I love the fumoto valves. They are a bit pricey, though.
Usually, it works better to turn over your oil container - pours more evenly. [That's the purpose of the air filled handle - to let the air in.]
Dan R. Graham 👍
I always get an oil drain tube instead, so it can be fed down under the rod.
Yeah something like a drainzit hose would work well.
Flip, I slightly overFILLED my Pony42. It was easy to drain the oil using your tips the NEWER engines actually have a tool-less cap with an extension tube that makes OC neater. I was filling with 10W30 and put in a full quart and and less than 1/2 extra. The stick read just above the F dot. Upon cranking after oil settled and clean up, the engine BackFired once and wouldn't start! A small amount of oil sprayed on the tires and ground.
Can you advise besides draining some oil out tomorrow and possibly cleaning spark plug?
much thanks
Lou
Pony 42 in NY Capital Region
Your video's are a great help.How do I disable the seat shut off?
I'm glad. You can remove the switch from under the seat and simply zip tie it down!
My Bronco has only two springs that the seat rests on. However it does have two electrical plugs under the outside left of the seat. Any ideas?Thanks
@@waynewise6711 I believe you have to actually take the seat off. It is held on with mounting bolt. The switch is up under the seat when you take it off.
Yeah Flip...getting ready to do the first oil change on my 2018 Poulan Pro (same motor as yours)...thanks for the tips ---makes it easier...
Right on, Quantum. Glad I could help. Gonna do a new oil change video this spring with a couple other new tricks. Happy cuttin.
It’s so weird. Our mowers look identical except in the spot where the drain plug is on your, there’s just a recessed square plug, like it’s not meant to be removed. I’ll probably have to use a siphon hose to change mine.
Interesting. Never seen anything like that.
I recently had my mower break on me. It has the same mechanics to it like the one you are showing. When you let the handle down to engage the blades to go it was like something broke. The handle just goes up and down with no engagement. Do you have any comments on how to fix this?
It sounds like something broke where the PTO is attached. More than likely the spring that pulls the idler arm!
Yea including me I didn't get mine and it was bought brand new still had the break in oil but now I figured I could use that oil extender like on most other mowers it does work and it does not cross thread mine came off a John Deer rider which all it's needs is a twist of of the black cap and oil comes out
Hey, whatever works for you!
@@fixitFlip well I kinda spoke to soon the treads match and it does go in but the treads are to long if I was to grind down maybe a thread or 2 it would be perfect fit but as of now it's hitting on the steering bar
@@chrisgreer1911 Yeah that steering rod is in a really inconvenient spot
@@fixitFlip hey I do have a question if h don't mind to help me out with but do u know how many grease fittings there r on these mowers
@@chrisgreer1911 Yep, the only two it has are just inside the front wheels. No zerks on the spindles. They are "maintenance free."
You the man bro.! I use a magnet to catch the plug👍🍻
Ha! Good idea. I've got a few of those laying around that I took out of old speakers.
Used a coffie can made of plastic fit fine
Nice.
I don't suggest adding potential leak points to any lawn mower drain plug. You've added two. The frequency of changing your oil outweighs trying to make it more convenient in my opinion
Nothing wrong with a different opinion. Never leaked on me, though.
i got my double bar front bumper and trailer hitch in today from Ebay. both fits like a glove MAN cost 78 bucks> Only 6 bolts > Craftsman Universal Riding Mower Dual Bar Bumper
I just looked it up. That looks awesome! You didn't even have to drill any holes?
Nope not a one bro . plenty of hood clearance PERFECT All i did is 1 flat head bot in bottom back one screw in middle the other side . Start putting in the 3 flat head bolts and 1meat screw that is 2 ~ 1/2 " wrench and a 2 ~ 3/19 wrench all the tool used he hee never look at the instructions 10 min i was done
Wow, that's awesome, might have to look into that!
this is the trailer hitch for the Pony it very strong brother its on Ebay UNIVERSAL LAWN GARDEN TRACTOR HITCH WITH SUPPORT BRACE KIT INCLUDED > yes i had to drill 2 hole for the brace BE SURE TO PUT 2 washer between the brace and front plate on the tractor it fills in the molded metal ok the 2 washer bring the brace out even to the molded metal When you put it on will see what i'am talken about i use the double Y brace for more support 10 min i was done
make a work horse he hee i need a trailer to pick up limb and haul dirt Can make a vido of them too
will at anytime the blades will hit at there ends, if not off set them at install
The blades will not hit each other. It does not matter how you set them.
When I reattached the steering rod, I did it just a tad higher than it was from the factory. It works great.
Great idea!
Forgive my ignorance here, but is at a half inch or 3/8 inch socket opening
No problem, it's a half inch.
On these kinds of engines, do you need to also change the filter every time you change the oil?
Yes, you should. But this particular model does not have an oil filter.
@@fixitFlip Almost forgot you said that.. I would have wasted a half hour looking for one!
@@daddydawg1902 Ha ha, yeah most of them do so I wouldn't blame ya!
I used a split garden hose as i do not have the drain hose he has
That works! I've used a water bottle cut in half and an oil bottle cut in half before.
Thank you thank you thank you this was perfect for me. I’d love to watch more basic maintenance videos on the Troy Bilt!!
No problem and check out all the videos on my channel! I've got a whole lawn mower playlist with at least 12 videos about this exact lawn mower. I pretty much cover every type of maintenance there is.
Thanks. Bought a 2008 Pony in excellent condition for $200 and guy threw the bagger in.
That sounds like you got a pretty good deal to me.
If you buy a galvanized nipple and a galvanized cap, they are about five times cheaper than buying the brass ones.
Good tip!
You found a good Subject to show ok, lot of us are getting the pony and troy built produces ok Keep up the good work ! YOU make excellent video OK cheers man
Thanks, brotha, I appreciate it!!
Thank that was exactly what I was looking for
No problem, glad I could help.
Can you tell me what size 8-point socket this would take to remove the drain plug?
7/16" eight point socket should do it
Size 13 12 point socket fits it perfectly
Than you very much......Very helpful........Bob In Delaware
No problem! Thanks for the kind words, Bob.
Fantastic video. Saved me a whole lot of time. Thank you.
No problem. That's my goal.
Do you have a video of changing the oil filter on the troy built 42 pony
I do not, sorry. My model does not have one. They only started adding them on the Ponies the last couple years.
I’m a first time riding mower owner, I bought a 46” Troy bilt hydro horse 20hp. Can you please tell me which filter and oil I should buy? Thank you for the vids
www.troybilt.com/en_US/operatorsmanuals
Here's a site where you can type in the serial number of your mower and download a manual. Or tell me what exact engine it has and I can help you find it.
@@fixitFlip so I used the link you provided and it gives multiple manuals.....
Model Number: 13WX79BT011
Serial Number: 1D247B10117
@@No_cap_yo Your model number should be right under the seat. In this video I show you where the model number is:
ruclips.net/video/QXg_5uH-LH4/видео.html
Thanks for answering my questions btw. So mine has two different areas with two different serial and model numbers. The one I provided is from under the seat and then there’s one on the engine that’s different than the one under the seat. It has a Kholer engine.
@@No_cap_yo Yes, the Kholer engine will have its own model number, and actually the manual for this would be your best resource for changing the oil. The Troy Bilt manuals will sometimes just tell you to refer to your engine manual. The model number under the seat is for the mower.
I was taught that Teflon Tape should not be used at that high of a temperature .
Interesting.
What size socket for the oil plug......7/16 I believe? That oil drain plug is TIGHT!
I used the female end of a 3/8 extension!
Or a 7/16 8 point socket, yes.
Tilting the mower to the drain plug side, reduces oil getting on the frame.
Yes, sometimes I park it on a hill to help with that. This little trick with an oil bottle works, too: ruclips.net/video/hxUnUHeVLr0/видео.html
Do you know what size the 4 point bolt is by chance? If not no worries. Going tomorrow to Lowe’s.
Do you mean the plug?
If so, 3/8 inch MIP plug
@@fixitFlip it’s alright. I got the gator grip and works amazing.
@@PSUNATION Okay, glad you got it figured out.
Thanks
No problem.
I don't believe that the pipe wrench is going to grip the brass pipe in the position shown if you are trying to loosen the cap. It will have to be reversed for the teeth to bite into the pipe . . . but unfortunately the wrench doesn't have room to go in from the other side. Probably going to have to grip it with channellocks or vice grips.
You are correct. I was just holding the pipe wrench up in the wrong position. Was just trying to demonstrate what tool to use. But the truth is I took that cap off many, many times after making this video without even needing the pipe wrench. I just put the nipple in tighter than the cap was on, and I have never had any issues.
@@fixitFlip My Troy-bilt Super Bronco XP got it's oil changed yesterday . . . what a mess! It only has a drain plug and there is no gap under the plug to insert anything to channel the oil. I put a 8x8x16" cinder block under the back wheel thinking it would give it plenty of slope to drain the oil just across the frame . . . nope. It went everywhere . . . all over the drive pully assembly and into places I couldn't even imagine it could go with it at a 20% angle. The wiring harness is in the way to put a pipe coming out of drain hole. Would have to reroute the wiring. Probably easier to just clean up the mess each time.
@@rrnabors1 Wow. What a terrible set up. SMH
Have the same rider, thanks!!!
No problem. Happy mowing.
Good job and clear guide, thank you, will follow your channel, regards from Ky
Thank you, I appreciate it!
why is the bottom of my engine leaking, I can't find out from where the oil leak originates however. it's leaks down onto the 2nd bigger lower pulley, not leaking on the smaller top pulley on the dual pulley shaft, so it's not coming from the lower engine crankcase seal. So do I have to remove the engine to see if there is a hairline crack or something,.... it is a 2001 lawn tractor from MTD but the engine runs great, but the oil leak drips down and gets all over the V-belt and ruins it and splashes oil everywhere under there.
Personally, I’ve never had my mower try to start up on its own while it’s just sitting there in my garage. I’ll probably leave the spark plug in. 😉
I do as well. But when I make a video I try to just assume people have no idea what they are doing and put all the precautions in there. I realize the chances are very very small.
@@fixitFlip Unfortunately that type of Overkill is necessary these days. Kind of like required Warning Labels telling people the TIDE PODS are NOT for Human Consumption. Makes you despair the Species! :P
@@daddydawg1902 lolol
The 42" deck belt for a troy bilt pony year 2019 and 20 >>> 1/2" x 96" long OK the same engagement cable also. Parts # QSH - 0453 OEM NO- 746-04092 cable --- > Keep 2 of each on hand. This may not be the same on older models
Thanks, Bee.
@@fixitFlip wc bro
This is awesome! Thanks so much for this! 🙂👍
No problem!
Is there no oil filter on this model? Mine doesn't seem to have 1
Nope. No oil filter.
I have an older model of the Briggs ride on you have don't they have oil filters ? Wow they must need the oil changed alot with no filter.
Yeah, strange they don't have one.
Would you do this procedure If you accidentally put fuel in the oil tank ?
Yes and I would let it dry out over night before putting fresh oil in.
@@fixitFlip thank you! We flushed the tank with new oil then drained again and left it empty. Will give it a few days before adding new oil again
@@Onespeed94 Nice work. That should do the trick.
Looking at purchasing a solid, reliable, budget-friendly ride on mower. Is this the ticket? Any other recommendations by folks?
I can tell you there isn't much out there at all right now. The HD by me just got a few TB Ponies in, but that's about it. John Deere is currently not shipping their 100 series to dealers due to supply chain issues and I haven't seen any Cub Cadets anywhere. My Pony has lasted 10 years now with no major issues.
This may help you out:
ruclips.net/video/QXg_5uH-LH4/видео.html
@@fixitFlip Thanks for the response. Might just buy a used Toro 22 mower and wait. Maybe get a new ride on over winter or next season. Inflation and supply chain issues and associates costs are too much for me.
@@Murph999 Yep, it is insane right now. Hopefully all calms down by next spring. But doesn't sound promising from dealers I have talked to.
new subscriber to Fix it Flip
Thank you, sir.
How about a petcock valve on the extension pipe.
Maybe I missed but I didn't hear what size socket? Oh I just heard it. I think 9/16 seems to fit mine, but I need to go get a ratchet then I'll try. 7/16 socket definitely didn't fit.
It's just a socket extension.
@@fixitFlip Right but what size socket for that drain plug?
@@jackwilliams5474 It's a square so I literally just put the square end of a socket extension on there.
@@fixitFlip Oh OK, I got you, the female end. Do you Know what size drive was the extension (1/4, 3/8, or 1/2")? Yes I too noticed that it was square which was quite odd.
@@jackwilliams5474 Sorry, I should have specified the female end. I believe it was a 3/8 drive
My 1985 Roper came with the pipe like that from The factory it’s a 3 inch pipe then it has an L band facing down with a plug it’s nice I change my oil every two or three times I use the lawnmower I don’t care at three dollars a quarter for STP shit
That is nice. I wish they all came like that!
For anyone who could help me. I'm helping a friend of mine get their troybilt TB 46 rider ready for the mowing season. It's a hydrostatic rider. It's got a 547cc overhead valve engine.
They don't have a book with this rider.
First ?...is this engine a Briggs and Stratton?
Second ?...about how much oil will this rider take?
Thankyou ahead of time to anyone who replies
You could probably find a manual online.
How do you remove the airfilter cover on that machine They turning and not able to lift off
Here's my quick video on the air filter if you want to watch how I get it off:
ruclips.net/video/_hvkqRwH2-o/видео.html
@@fixitFlip Thanks Mine seized in with rust So the whole shaft was turning I guess thats why they changed it
@@trevorlonewolf6406 Yeah, that will do it!
Thank you Flip Great Example!
No problem!