I swap out my stock oil pump for a Melling High Volume pump with engine in car. Also, I switched back to stock crank pulley. Support: paypal.me/Texa... Instagram: @texasgto
great viedio not trying to be a dick but there is a plug on drivers side in the block that you can use to prime your new oil pump melling suggests using 3/8 tubing and a funnel add approx. 8 oz and wait 3 minutes for it to fill then re install plug no need to unplug coils and turn over then
thank God you made this video lol been sitting on my melling oil pump for 2 years kuz I couldn't find a way to install it without pulling the motor. good video man!
Dominic Daley The hardest part is the 10mm bolt that holds the pickup tube in the pump. I'd use a length of ribbon or string instead of zip tie. You won't be able to get the zip tie off once reinstalled. Using string or ribbon you can make a slip knot that you can pull the shorter end to release once you get the bolt in.
@@TexasGTO I saw a chain dampener on there before you pulled the pump. Did you put that on previously? I wasn't sure it would fit with the pump installed
It's a pain but you can do it. Back the pick up tube bolt out a bit and tie a string to it to keep it from dropping into pan. Do a slip knot so you can loosen it and take it off when you go to reinstall it
@@TexasGTO I was able to take off the pick up tube bolt … but I got stuck with the oil pump the 4 mounting bolts.. when I had the engine built a while back … for some reason this builder used Allen head bolts and apparently over tightened the fucken bolts.. I managed to strip all 4 so I can’t take off the oil pump.
@@TexasGTO I even used a grinder to make a straight cut , I tried using my impact with flat head adapter and bolt still didn’t budge… I know a guy that hopefully can come to my house and weld on a bolt to all 4.. so I can use regular socket to take it off. There only suppose to be 18ft lbs but god dam these are fucken stuck on there.
we call wrenches 'spanners,' like box wrenches are ring spanners. It only makes sense because open-ended spanners "span" the nut. Also, crescent wrenches are known as adjustable or shifting spanners, or 'shifters' for short. Sockets are just sockets, though.
Also thanks for the vid. Good info on getting to the retainer plate. I would have loved to see your method for getting the pickup bolt out, as it looks janky as frig and is therefore right up my alley! Also removal of the timing cover, and a couple other pieces you skipped over (I'm assuming because you had an alotted timeslot to get his done and couldn't stop every ten seconds to explain). I think I got enough to be confident going into my Commodore, regardless, so thank you again. Subscribed. Quick Q: did you manage to get the oil pan sufficiently separated without removing the bolts, or did they all have to come out?
The tricky part is getting that 10mm bolt out. You'll need to back it out just a bit then tie a string around it. Use a slip knot. Then remove it. If you drop it into the pan, that's just where it'll live for now haha No worries about it doing any damage to the engine but you'll know it's there and that'll bug you haha
If you hold the gas full throttle before you crank it the car it will go to Clear Flood Mode and it will crank over without starting letting you prime it without having to unplug coils. Love your vids by the way keep it up.
CarusoRacing 14 For the puller? I rented a puller kit from autozone and it had the correct size in it. If you mean the crank bolt it's the factory stock bolt.
thanks man appreciate it ye i was talking about the puller im advancing the cam timing and got all new timing gears and i put the powerbond on and never gave u bolts or anything for when u go to pull it off when i origanally put it on
I need a new oil pump and the mechanics have quoted me insane prices to do it. I'm about to take on some engine challenges on my own. How come all the mechanics tell me the engine has to be pulled or suspended to get to the oil pump, claiming it takes 20 plus labor hours?? huh?? I'm sure its pain for a dude like me, but a trained mechanic?? this gives me hope I can tackle this myself. are the mechanics just saying that then doing what you just did? interesting.. amazing video non the less, brother!!
Hardest part is the 10mm bolt holding the pickup tube in. Just back out the bolt a bit and tie a string around it so it doesn't fall into oil pan. When you're putting it back in make a slip knot so you can loosen the string once the bolt is back in. Don't worry if you do drop it. It won't damage anything other than you'll always think about it being in there from time to time lol
Never took it out. As long as you torque the bolts back to spec using the torque pattern, you should be fine with old one. I've undone my pan 3 times now and no leaks. Just make sure you use rtv on the timing cover bottom corners.
TexasGTO awesome man I appreciate the quick reply. I’m on my second ls swap and I think I need a pump, very low pressure, I put a new o ring when I resealed it. Good to know I can reuse the oil pan gasket, going to get this nailed out in a day. Thank you
I'm in the process of reassembling the Chevy LS1 in my Holden VY SS Commodore (basically the same as the Pontiac but in sedan form) as I've replaced the hydraulic lifters & timing chain but I'm waiting for the cylinder head gaskets,head bolts,etc to come in from EBay. I live in Australia & the person who I ordered the timing cover kit from in Queensland put the kit together wrong meaning that it was supposed to come with water pump gaskets, a front crankshaft seal & the oil pump pickup tube o ring. It came with no O ring & they sent me a rear main oil seal instead of the front seal so I had to order the both parts from Sydney. I managed to get the oil pump pickup screw out & it is good that the sump is baffled, it doesn't fall far. I have bought a magnet stick to allow me to refit the screw,note I didn't have to drop the oil pan down,if I did,I think it would leak. I'm also going to prime the oil pump by filling it with oil by removing the oil plug which is screwed in behind the alternator.
Awesome video, just wondering do you have a braided fuel line at all? If so how'd you go about installing it, or if you havnt and want to install could you do a video on it.
TexasGTO Any oil pressure issues after that? I installed mine the same way and heard that the oring can get cut doing that. Now I’m nervous about starting it after my build is done.
I cheated lol , Once I got that tiny bolt off the oil pump , the new oil pump i studded it, I put a stud in it and put the pick up tube on it. I press the pick up tube in the pump flush then took a lock but red lock tight and tightened it up , that was soooo much easier, going on 120k miles and oil pressure 46 idle 65 wot
Seems the harmonic balancer basically takes the place of a timing cover alignment tool. You didn't use one at all? I'll be doing this on a LQ4, doubt theres much difference though.
Everything was going nice and smooth until i got to the rear left side oil pan bolt right above the power steering lines, i cant get the damn thing out
Hey TexasGTO.. Great video. Just about to do an Oil Pump swap myself. Any tips on putting the Oil Intake tube bolt back in..? You seemed to skip that part. You used a ZIP tie when getting it off but just wondering if there are any tricks putting it back in.
LOL! Yea, it was on there. The first clip at the beginning was it breaking free. I just wanted people to think I broke a socket as a joke. And G'day mate!
TexasGTO haha ok! From melling you get 2 springs. Inside the red one and in a plastic bag the blue one You installed then the red one I supose. I just wanted to know the pressure it gives just not to overpresurize the system without need Thanks buddy
@@TexasGTO thanks just spent 950 on new head gaskets and manifold gaskets drove it one day 0 oil pressure changed the oil pressure sending unit still the same so I'm hoping it's the oil pump
You left out changing the lower gear for the timing chain, you just bolted on the oil pump without taking it apart and clearancing the gears and the housing? Hum🤔
I mean if you feel you need to, then by all means go ahead. I've done it like this on many engines and no issue. In fact, this one is still going strong and now makes 700whp. So, I'm not saying you're wrong just I've never had problems.
@@TexasGTO I know I'm not wrong" because I was inquiring, I didn't know if you left it out of the video, edited it, if you didn't do it, or is it not necessary. 👍thanks
@@TexasGTO no worries, it wasn't adding up to me that it was necessary, I bolted mine on the same as you did yours, I wish I hadn't spent the extra money on one that is advanceable, because apparently it's built into the cam I would like to eventually ad, covid keeping me from finishing my project, down to trying to figure out the wiring🤢 6.0 4l80e in jacked up 93 Chevy short bed, do you happen to know if aftermarket fast ECU can take care of the Vats issue or would I still have to have that cancel that out? I don't want to spend the money for that but with my 4:88 gears and big tires it may be simpler in the long run to shift right. I don't know if the VSS from the old computer and the new can be wired together somehow, wish it would because I went through a month of research finding the binary code and soldering dip switches to the circuit board.
@@gregfiscus988 my shit ticking. They've told me if I get a high volume or high pressure oil pump it would give the heads and valves the oil it needs and it would go away. You know anything about that?
So basically you need to buy oil pan gasket when doing this job right? People was saying to put RTV underneath the timing cover to prevent oil leaks in some spot but you have gasket there already so I don't get it, can you explain?
Andrie Hafrian Any time you have two pieces of metal joining up that needs to hold oil, it's a good idea to add rtv at those spots. Breaking the factor seals may cause oil leaks if you don't add it.
great viedio not trying to be a dick but there is a plug on drivers side in the block that you can use to prime your new oil pump melling suggests using 3/8 tubing and a funnel add approx. 8 oz and wait 3 minutes for it to fill then re install plug no need to unplug coils and turn over then
Oh ok. Thank you!
thank God you made this video lol been sitting on my melling oil pump for 2 years kuz I couldn't find a way to install it without pulling the motor. good video man!
Dominic Daley Lol You're welcome!
Dominic Daley The hardest part is the 10mm bolt that holds the pickup tube in the pump. I'd use a length of ribbon or string instead of zip tie. You won't be able to get the zip tie off once reinstalled. Using string or ribbon you can make a slip knot that you can pull the shorter end to release once you get the bolt in.
Can you explain more how you got that bolt out on the pickup he kinda cut out. Not explanation
10mm. Put string around it. Unbolt it. Hold onto string. Pull out. 😎👍
Bro thank you for this video!!! This morning oil pump failed , saw this video, was done in 6 hours start to finish!!!! U saved my gto!!!!
No worries!
The one time I actually find a video specifically for a GTO lol
I've got more if you're interested lol
I used to fight the idler roller until I realized just take it off, one bolt, no problem. Real good video.
Duane Cody Yea, you can do that. I'm just, meh. Having it off does make water pump a little easier
I saw your comment about the UDP driving like crap once the fans turned on. Do you think a 10% UDP would have helped?
@@JonnyAbs-0 I just put it back to stock. The HP gain wasn't worth the headache
@@TexasGTO I saw a chain dampener on there before you pulled the pump. Did you put that on previously? I wasn't sure it would fit with the pump installed
@JonnyAbs-0 if I'm changing the chain I'm also changing the damper. They're cheap. No reason not to I think
@@TexasGTO I get that. I meant there was already a dampener on there. How if you never removed the pump prior
@@JonnyAbs-0 ls2 comes with them stock.
I’m working on this right now .. I’m in the part where I got to loosen oil pan bolts to drop pan slightly to give more space for oil pick up tube bolt
It's a pain but you can do it. Back the pick up tube bolt out a bit and tie a string to it to keep it from dropping into pan. Do a slip knot so you can loosen it and take it off when you go to reinstall it
@@TexasGTO I was able to take off the pick up tube bolt … but I got stuck with the oil pump the 4 mounting bolts.. when I had the engine built a while back … for some reason this builder used Allen head bolts and apparently over tightened the fucken bolts.. I managed to strip all 4 so I can’t take off the oil pump.
@@TexasGTO I even used a grinder to make a straight cut , I tried using my impact with flat head adapter and bolt still didn’t budge… I know a guy that hopefully can come to my house and weld on a bolt to all 4.. so I can use regular socket to take it off. There only suppose to be 18ft lbs but god dam these are fucken stuck on there.
@@ghc_gto_6.0 Man that's rough. I hope you get them off of there!
Thanks bro, I got stuck on my G8 GT cam swap. That stupid oil tube1 hahaha.
Haha np glad it helped
"a spanner......if you're one of THOSE Australians that watch my videos" haha i am one of THOSE Australians, and yep it called a spanner
darren b lolol
So do GTO owners fit Holden badges to those cars like Holden owners in Australia fit Chev badges to Commodores 😂.
Yes they do. I chose not to though :)
we call wrenches 'spanners,' like box wrenches are ring spanners. It only makes sense because open-ended spanners "span" the nut. Also, crescent wrenches are known as adjustable or shifting spanners, or 'shifters' for short. Sockets are just sockets, though.
does the melling oil pump work with the stock pick up?
Yes.
Also thanks for the vid. Good info on getting to the retainer plate. I would have loved to see your method for getting the pickup bolt out, as it looks janky as frig and is therefore right up my alley! Also removal of the timing cover, and a couple other pieces you skipped over (I'm assuming because you had an alotted timeslot to get his done and couldn't stop every ten seconds to explain). I think I got enough to be confident going into my Commodore, regardless, so thank you again. Subscribed.
Quick Q: did you manage to get the oil pan sufficiently separated without removing the bolts, or did they all have to come out?
Did not have to remove them just unbolted enough to get to that 10mm I forgot to record. In hindsight I wish I did better at explaining that
Shout out from australia, did that intake manifold gain anything over stock/fast manifold?
Yes to both. There are several independent tests that showed msd beating out fast. Check them out. 😉
Thanks, your video along with a dozen others helped me figure out how to do this successfully. Much appreciated.
Hey np. Yea that's how I do it too. Look at as many videos as I can.
Great video! I have to do a pump replacement on my fathers Monaro, and I was just wondering how did you reseal the sump gasket?
It'll come with a new o-ring.
The tricky part is getting that 10mm bolt out. You'll need to back it out just a bit then tie a string around it. Use a slip knot. Then remove it. If you drop it into the pan, that's just where it'll live for now haha No worries about it doing any damage to the engine but you'll know it's there and that'll bug you haha
If you hold the gas full throttle before you crank it the car it will go to Clear Flood Mode and it will crank over without starting letting you prime it without having to unplug coils. Love your vids by the way keep it up.
Grajeda Thank you for the tip!
The book calls for 6.5 Quarts of oil stock. I have a yellow jacket 2005 M-6. Love it. 41k miles.
Paul Rollins 👍
Mine is at 75k lol
What are the torque specs for this thought?I need to swap my lifters and heads too
Just quick question. Why did you say you lost horsepower at the end? Is it for using only one bolt versus using both for throttle body housing?
~ 23:00
what size bolts did u use for your harmonic balancer i have the same one cant find bolts anywhere
CarusoRacing 14 For the puller? I rented a puller kit from autozone and it had the correct size in it. If you mean the crank bolt it's the factory stock bolt.
thanks man appreciate it ye i was talking about the puller im advancing the cam timing and got all new timing gears and i put the powerbond on and never gave u bolts or anything for when u go to pull it off when i origanally put it on
CarusoRacing 14 No problem!
I need a new oil pump and the mechanics have quoted me insane prices to do it. I'm about to take on some engine challenges on my own. How come all the mechanics tell me the engine has to be pulled or suspended to get to the oil pump, claiming it takes 20 plus labor hours?? huh?? I'm sure its pain for a dude like me, but a trained mechanic?? this gives me hope I can tackle this myself. are the mechanics just saying that then doing what you just did? interesting.. amazing video non the less, brother!!
Hardest part is the 10mm bolt holding the pickup tube in. Just back out the bolt a bit and tie a string around it so it doesn't fall into oil pan. When you're putting it back in make a slip knot so you can loosen the string once the bolt is back in. Don't worry if you do drop it. It won't damage anything other than you'll always think about it being in there from time to time lol
Just had mine done after oil pressure loss.. Shop charging me 13 hrs of labor😡.
such a clean engine
TY!
Hi great video and information, did you re-use the oil pan gasket or replace?
Never took it out. As long as you torque the bolts back to spec using the torque pattern, you should be fine with old one. I've undone my pan 3 times now and no leaks. Just make sure you use rtv on the timing cover bottom corners.
TexasGTO awesome man I appreciate the quick reply. I’m on my second ls swap and I think I need a pump, very low pressure, I put a new o ring when I resealed it. Good to know I can reuse the oil pan gasket, going to get this nailed out in a day. Thank you
Np!
@@TexasGTO Thanks for the video. So, you just loosened the oil pan to drop it down a bit? Just to get a little more clearance?
I'm in the process of reassembling the Chevy LS1 in my Holden VY SS Commodore (basically the same as the Pontiac but in sedan form) as I've replaced the hydraulic lifters & timing chain but I'm waiting for the cylinder head gaskets,head bolts,etc to come in from EBay.
I live in Australia & the person who I ordered the timing cover kit from in Queensland put the kit together wrong meaning that it was supposed to come with water pump gaskets, a front crankshaft seal & the oil pump pickup tube o ring.
It came with no O ring & they sent me a rear main oil seal instead of the front seal so I had to order the both parts from Sydney.
I managed to get the oil pump pickup screw out & it is good that the sump is baffled, it doesn't fall far.
I have bought a magnet stick to allow me to refit the screw,note I didn't have to drop the oil pan down,if I did,I think it would leak.
I'm also going to prime the oil pump by filling it with oil by removing the oil plug which is screwed in behind the alternator.
Good info and good luck!
Is the factory skidplate steel my silverado has a s skidplater in front and one under the transfercase but both are aluminum
The stock gto skidpkate is steel. It's not real heavy but this skid plate didn't cost much.
Awesome video, just wondering do you have a braided fuel line at all? If so how'd you go about installing it, or if you havnt and want to install could you do a video on it.
ShaneM44 Sure man. I can do that this week. It's easy.
TexasGTO Awesome thanks, cause I'm getting ready to do mine and was wondering how it all goes!
ShaneM44 Thanks for the support!
TexasGTO no problem man keep up the good work! been following for awhile now! can't wait to get a cam and more mods for mine!
You had an Eclipse too?
so u wouldnt fill the gavity with vas? just unplug the pligs & leads should b enough?
I'm not sure what you're asking.
How did you get the oil pickup tube back into the pump without rolling the o-ring?
I just put a little oil around it and stuffed it back in
TexasGTO Any oil pressure issues after that? I installed mine the same way and heard that the oring can get cut doing that. Now I’m nervous about starting it after my build is done.
Your engine primed oil just cranking the engine over?
Yea. As far as I can tell from the internetz, that is the way to do it. Better than just firing it up I guess.
I cheated lol ,
Once I got that tiny bolt off the oil pump , the new oil pump i studded it,
I put a stud in it and put the pick up tube on it. I press the pick up tube in the pump flush then took a lock but red lock tight and tightened it up , that was soooo much easier, going on 120k miles and oil pressure 46 idle 65 wot
Awesome! Glad it's working!
which o ring did you use with the kit the green or black one?
john thompson Honestly I don't remember but it was whichever was already on it.
Seems the harmonic balancer basically takes the place of a timing cover alignment tool. You didn't use one at all? I'll be doing this on a LQ4, doubt theres much difference though.
jjthesavage Correct. Leave timing cover bolts loose. Get the balancer torqued down. Then tighten cover bolts.
TexasGTO That's great info, thanks for your time!
Roughly how long did this take you to do?
foxtrot789 With recording about 4 hours. I bet without, couple hours.
Everything was going nice and smooth until i got to the rear left side oil pan bolt right above the power steering lines, i cant get the damn thing out
Patience is needed. Use extensions, swivels, short sockets, deep sockets. You'll get it.
Dude.. same ! Did you get it ? Any tips ?
Hey TexasGTO.. Great video. Just about to do an Oil Pump swap myself. Any tips on putting the Oil Intake tube bolt back in..? You seemed to skip that part. You used a ZIP tie when getting it off but just wondering if there are any tricks putting it back in.
Steve Gould Use a peice of string with a slip knot on it. So if you drop it while putting it in with your fingers it won't fall into the oil pan
Thanks mate.. How did you find putting the bolt back it..? Troublesome..? or easy...
You're going to be able to use the swear jar for a down payment on a new boat.
This is the same process on a ls1 as well correct?
Pretty much.
wow that balancer bolts wasnt that tight, lol im one of those australian dudes who calls it a spanner haha
LOL! Yea, it was on there. The first clip at the beginning was it breaking free. I just wanted people to think I broke a socket as a joke. And G'day mate!
G’day mate haha I put the socket and ratchet and wedge it then crank the engine and it loosened it for me made it a lot easier haha
What spring did you run with in the oil pump? Red or blue? And what pressures are you getting?
Thankss
Honestly don't remember. Whichever was on it from factory. Don't have oil pressure gauge yet 🤦♂️
TexasGTO haha ok! From melling you get 2 springs. Inside the red one and in a plastic bag the blue one
You installed then the red one I supose.
I just wanted to know the pressure it gives just not to overpresurize the system without need
Thanks buddy
@@borjamuller9403 sorry couldn't be more helpful
Could you please list all the tools you used u have a 1996 3.8 base firebird with a bad oil Pump
Just a normal craftsman tool set
@@TexasGTO thanks just spent 950 on new head gaskets and manifold gaskets drove it one day 0 oil pressure changed the oil pressure sending unit still the same so I'm hoping it's the oil pump
And a harmonic balancer install kit that fit late model cars and a harmonic balancer puller that fits3.8 metric hand tools socket wrenches
Soooo is your oil pressure better?
Wouldn't know. No oil pressure gauge.
You left out changing the lower gear for the timing chain, you just bolted on the oil pump without taking it apart and clearancing the gears and the housing? Hum🤔
I mean if you feel you need to, then by all means go ahead. I've done it like this on many engines and no issue. In fact, this one is still going strong and now makes 700whp. So, I'm not saying you're wrong just I've never had problems.
@@TexasGTO I know I'm not wrong" because I was inquiring, I didn't know if you left it out of the video, edited it, if you didn't do it, or is it not necessary. 👍thanks
@@kevinwest3689 I didn't clearance anything and sorry for misunderstanding you.
@@TexasGTO no worries, it wasn't adding up to me that it was necessary, I bolted mine on the same as you did yours, I wish I hadn't spent the extra money on one that is advanceable, because apparently it's built into the cam I would like to eventually ad, covid keeping me from finishing my project, down to trying to figure out the wiring🤢 6.0 4l80e in jacked up 93 Chevy short bed, do you happen to know if aftermarket fast ECU can take care of the Vats issue or would I still have to have that cancel that out? I don't want to spend the money for that but with my 4:88 gears and big tires it may be simpler in the long run to shift right. I don't know if the VSS from the old computer and the new can be wired together somehow, wish it would because I went through a month of research finding the binary code and soldering dip switches to the circuit board.
Why did you remove the under pully?
Mine didn't like it. When radiator fans would kick into high mode, it would drive like poo.
were you not able to run the OTR with the mishimoto radiator?
Alex McCoy The otr intake was poorly made and didn't fit even with stock radiator.
TexasGTO which one did you have?
Alex McCoy Awespeed.
TexasGTO it sounds like an off of Duespeed, have you had any experience with this one?
Alex McCoy I want duspeed. They're awesome.
Is this the m365hv pump.?
melling 10296
What size motor? I have a 6.0 vortex max I just used the melling 10355hv. A good brand and buy
@@gregfiscus988 I have a 6.2L vortec from a 08 Cadilac Escalade
@@gregfiscus988 my shit ticking. They've told me if I get a high volume or high pressure oil pump it would give the heads and valves the oil it needs and it would go away. You know anything about that?
So basically you need to buy oil pan gasket when doing this job right? People was saying to put RTV underneath the timing cover to prevent oil leaks in some spot but you have gasket there already so I don't get it, can you explain?
Andrie Hafrian Any time you have two pieces of metal joining up that needs to hold oil, it's a good idea to add rtv at those spots. Breaking the factor seals may cause oil leaks if you don't add it.
did you use shims to put it back on
I did not.