Discover the TMC Vecton Titan UV Sterilizer!
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- Looking for a safer alternative to ozone? Check out the TMC Vecton Titan 850 UV Sterilizer, a powerful UV sterilizer for your aquarium. In this video we will take a deeper look into the TMC Vecton Titan 850 UV Sterilizer, including: Unboxing, installation, setup on a HYDROS Aquarium Controller, and viewing how this UV impacts the ORP values on a reef aquarium.
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Time codes
0:00: Intro
0:16: In Today's Video
2:08: Unboxing
2:36: Closer Look & Assembly
3:43: UV in Action
6:08: Final Thoughts
I emailed the folks at TMC on Flow Rate for Sterilization on the UV and this is their reply. Hope this helps any one who has questions related to this.
----Email Received back from Support----
UV Filtration | TMC (tropicalmarinecentre.com) - on this page there is a Technical Info tab. On there we explain the kill rates needed for various pathogens. The kill rate for Ich is 336,000 µWs/cm2. To get to that dose on a Vecton 600 you would need a flow rate of just 51 lph. This is simply not viable for a number of reasons:
A vecton should be on a return, and 51lph is too slow a flow rate for other mechanical and biological filtration to be effective.
If the vecton was placed on a separate closed loop you would not be able to guarantee that the full volume of water is passing through it.
At these flow rates, there is more of a risk of trapped air in the sterilizer because it won’t be flushed through. This would cause the body to fail early.
Other pathogens such as bacteria and waterborne algae would thrive as the flow rate is slower than their rate of reproduction.
There is also the issue that Ich is a parasite stuck to the fish. The UV will not treat what doesn’t pass through it, so even if you did slow the flow right down, you will not get it all. It will live in the filtration media, rock and substrate as well as on the fish themselves.
All is not lost though!!! 336,000 µWs/cm2 is the kill rate. Lower doses will still control the parasite by deactivating/sterilising. The absolute best way to target Ich is not to try to use low flow/high dose rates, but actually by simply adding a UV at the recommended flow rates. The flow rates are to keep on top of bacterial reproduction (which happens roughly every 20 minutes!), and this improvement in water quality will reduce stress on the fish’s immune systems. This combined with the control of the parasite and general good husbandry should win the war.
Link to Flow Rates on tier website - www.tropicalmarinecentre.com/en/biosystem/filtration/equipment/uv-filtration
That's crazy I was logging on to post the exact thing. They emailed me back the same response. I appreciate you following up. Now I'll look at this response a little deeper lol lol
@@RogerBell awesome my friend! Happy they got back to you at least though!
Greate video. I would love to get 6 & 12 month review.
On it like icing on cake!
Great vid, I just installed mine today. Question for you sir. I don’t see this UV with an obvious bright light spilling out from the inlet and outlet like most UVs, is this the case for your 850 also or should I double check my device? Thanks in advance.
Mine is the same way. As long as you check and make sure the bulb is connected like I showed on mine then you should be good to go.
Just joined and posted the video
Many Thanks for your invite
Did it help with removing the yellow out of the water like a ozone would?
From my eye yes it did but I also run carbon on my aquarium to that gets changed out monthly too. That helps remove the yellow pigments too.
Is it bad if orp gets higher than the levels you have it set at? I was thinking about getting one of these and wanted to run it 24/7
Typically a value most reefers agree on for ORP is 350 or lower.
Hey im running an ORP study on this unit also... what was your ORP ranging before you installed. My study seems to be getting different results than yours, but im doing it with freshwater...
Honestly here lately I’ve been seeing my ORP all over the place but this could also be due to other factors like switching different salt brands, fish or coral dying, and etc.
My ORP in SW used be at a low of 250 and I’d have my controller turn this off at around 300.
But I’ve also been fighting Dino’s in my tank so I’ve sense changed the ports configuration to be on all the time until that episode of Dino’s disappear in my system.
I won’t have much more info until I can get past that.
I think the ORP is only increased to a point with the Titan UV, but also see reduction technically. But doesn't just increase bunch. I'm confirming my thoughts and putting a video together to show it. ORP is hard to measure anyways cause it's technically always moving based on lot of factors.
@@devontrigg517 exactly!!!
Hi great video
Thanks to you I checked the connection for the bulb it was off so it’s all good. Ok I am having a issue on the outlet side just can’t stop the leaking off water any advice will be helpful
That could be a number of things. If you’re on discord feel free to join my server. Link is in the description. There we will be able to share pictures and videos. I think that’ll help address the issue quicker.
Great video. I have one that i haven't installed mine yet. I'm trying to figure out the flow rate for parasite control. Do you have any idea
That’s a great question. I just checked the manual and it makes no mention of that. I typically don’t pay attention to that myself but for algae and bacteria it’s typically a higher flow rate closer to the max of what the UV can support. That is an important piece of info to have so I think I’ll reach out to the manufacturer to confirm this next week!
@@REEFHUB-Offical thank you so much. I'm not sure if I have parasites but would love to control it. In the meantime I'll just blast it for algae lol. Please do a follow up video I can't wait to see the results.
@@RogerBell will do my friend!