Awesome rip at the skate park Rich definitely enjoyed the second half better. She took a pounding on the second half for sure that new bash bar is definitely a good upgrade for the guys wanting to keep the stock chassis gives it a little extra life I like to added length over, the competitors as well and how it ties into the chassis brace good idea by Mitch and Avery for sure. Stay cool my friend 🚀💪✌️👊
Thanks so much Brother Aldo 🤗. This rig has done killer overall basically stock. My motor leads were super loose after enough concrete hits 😂. The skid is a great option for guys that don't want to swap their chassis out. Definitely a sweet design and they priced it very affordably. Had a blast as always and grateful to get out. Have a great week Brother!!! 🍻🚀🚀
Already have the titanium one installed from scorched RC. However, I'll give it up to M2C this time, theirs appears to be better, and the pricing is fair for a change.
That was a cool and different kind of video from you for sure. Always appreciate you taking time before and after a bash to explain your rigs and details. Thats something more RC you tubers could Learn from for sure. 👍
Nice n’ mild session brother doopergiggles! “Genius upgrade” that both scorched and CRCU have been doing for a while now. But, they’re under brace is titanium for sparks and durability over aluminum. Very innovative.
Could be mistaken, but M3 out of Germany offered a CNC skid long before anyone for the ARRMA's. All the aftermarkets have their place. This design locks into the rear chassis brace nicely. Not sure if the others do or not 🤔. Titanium for sparks is cool, but I wouldn't pay extra for that personally. 🍻
@@richduperbash2966it’s just a bash bar cut in half and screwed into the rear chassis brace 🤷🏻♂️ the older style ones are screwed to the chassis and rear bulkhead not much “consistent innovation” there 🍻
Dude is this a back and forth about an upgrade option 😂. Guys can decide for themselves what makes sense for their needs and budgets. I still think an M2C chassis and simple RPM skid is perfect, but we're all different and not everyone has the funds or motivation to swap their chassis. This isn't about ground breaking innovation, it's a direct fit, no drilling holes upgrade. If you like the full "bash bar" concept then run it.
@@richduperbash2966 nah, bro. just pointing out the obvious. I have a EXB chassis on my k6 still with the RPM HD wing mount that has a plastic skidder and it’s holding up strong so far and I’ve sent it to what I thought was certain death at the skatepark and the hill of doom with almost NO damage. Chassis is still straight. Just had some loose hardware! These rigs can handle a lot more than people think and with a few upgrades and modifications, they’re almost bombproof. Just gotta know what you’re doing 😎🍻
Skatepark 🤴! Always a pleasure to watch your seemingly effortless transitions! Great upload Rich!! Almost nailed the rail grind. That would have been sweet! My luck I would have destroyed my rc on that rail. 😂🤣🤣🤣 That is a nice skatepark with the different bowl options. 👍🤙💯
Thanks so very much Chad 🤗. Both parks are awesome with multiple potential lines. There were skaters/bikers in some spots, but grateful to get in some runtime 😍. Yeah tagging the upright of that rail is always a possibility 😱🤣🤣
My goodness that thing took some nasty hits in that bash what a tank. Great content as always brutha we can hear the joy in your voice 😂 rock on rc brutha🤘🤘🤘
Skateparks can be a blast, and also make your butt pucker. 🤣🤣🤣 I was in a deep bowl and had a good run going and was going to flip out of it, but the part I hit went straight up and the Kraton was about 20 feet straight up as I was puckered going , no, no, no and didn't touch the throttle or brake and was lucky enough it came straight back down smooth on the wall backwards as I was still pointing up. I for sure knew it was gonna hit the edge and I would have to do some major repairs. Got lucky that time. Nice run Rich. 🚀🚀💯%🔥🚀🚀 🤙
Haha Tony 😂. Much appreciated. Yes indeed the concrete and coping is to be respected. It's so much fun, yet so easy to get carried away and be reminded of the laws of physics 😱. Finding traction in smooth painted bowls is a challenge. I've had the pucker happen multiple times 🤣🤣. These days my biggest focus is not rolling an ankle or eating dung trying to enter and exit the bowls. I've hit my head before and won't forget it. Bash on Brother 🍻
The King is Back with a classic!! That M2C brace looks beefcake!! You put it through is paces. That would have been Sick if you could have pulled that jump to grind on the metal rail 😮 Always Next time!! Arrma outdid itself with this RTR!! It's Always cool to see you RIP the Concrete Jungle Rich!! You never fail to Impress Brother!! Stay safe and bash on from Colorado!!
Thanks so very much Ervin 🤗. The M2C skid brace is the easiest upgrade I've ever mounted. It's solid with the 6 mounting points 💪. Pulling that rail slide would've been epic. Now I know it's possible 😜. ARRMA outdid themselves with this V2 EXB RTR. Huge props to them for stepping it up. Truly appreciate it Brother!!! 🍻😎💪👊👊
Awesome bash AGAIN brother.... I've got about 4 runs on the new brace and I had my stock chassis bent after 3 runs so it's already lasted longer lol to be fair I had some nasty crashes causing my chassis to bend but this brace with the new EXB chassis is holding thru some abuse... I've been having the issue with the driveshaft popping out I do have m2c driveshaft on the EXB, fireteam, and the typhon I'm almost finished building but I didn't get the +1mm my fireteams really bad about it I've removed them washers and all and I've now switch to m2c outdrives mine were beat up pretty good i hopefully fixed the fireteam we will see.... Keep be awesome my friend can't wait for the next one
Thanks so very much Brother 🤗. The stock standard chassis is hard to keep straight with harder bashing. The EXB version is definitely less bendy, but not M2C 7075 T6 by a longshot. That said, the V2 EXB is braced better without question. I've been lagging testing parts lately, but stoked to find some free time and get back out 😍. The +1 mm outdrives are an awesome option for the front end especially. Definitely gonna grab some for my Fireteam. Truly appreciate your comment Brother and happy bashing!!! 🍻😎💪👊👊
@@richduperbash2966 yeah I think if I still have this issue I'm gonna have to go plus 1 idk I feel like the trucks to new still to have front arms being warped plus I've replaced them once already lol
Really strugglin between dropping bug power in my X Maxx, or building one of these EXB v2's. I had a Maxx featuring several $$$ in upgrades, but I still found myself gravitating the the big X Maxx... I'm not sure if the 6s EXB would be enough to pull me away from the big guy.
The Kraton EXB V2 is a different machine altogether. Yes it's smaller, but it's way faster, more agile, durable, and easy to wrench on. I like my highly upgraded XMaxx for what it is, but the EXB V2 is the best all around RTR basher hands down. ARRMA outdid themselves with the upgrades. That's my honest opinion. 🤙
wow ARRMA IS KILLING IT M2C AND ARRMA SHOULD TEAM UP LIKE THEY DID WITH LOSI YOUR BASHING IS ALWAYS FUN TO WATCH YOU DEFINETLY THE MAN RICH AWESOME RUN BRO💐💐💐
Thanks so very much Brother 🤗. Pretty sure you could fit this on a V5. Because there's a 2nd rearward brace hole on the V2 EXB, I'd recommend drilling a hole in the chassis and adding a 2nd short bolt for added strength. May not be necessary, but would likely support the chassis better.
I replaced the diff friction plates with the thick shims from the ARRMA EXB diff shim kit. This effectively eliminates any limited slip diff action and results in a classic open diff tuned with fluid of your choice. Several guys with the version 1 Kraton EXB had rear diff issues. I think there was a problem with the assembly end using the wrong shims. Not so much with the EXB RTR V2. It's possible your diff wasn't assembled properly from the factory 🤔. My sun gears have held fine with the 2.1mm washer shims that come in the shim kit.
In germany we make these braces for every vehicle since almost ten years now. The european tuning game is so far ahead of the American. Sadly little of it is seen on youtube.
I know M3 offered a great option many years ago. This one ties into the rear chassis brace without drilling chassis holes. Fortunately, America has it's share of great engineers, master machinists, and an awesome RC scene. There's a reason guys run M2C around the world. 🍻
One thing be cool someday Rich is explain how you set your shock spring tension. I know we all have to have some slap on chassis for sure but I continue to be amazed at how little hard slap you and some other have in your videos. Gotta be a Jedi trick or method of how you set this up?
Thanks Shawn 🤙. I did a shock setup vid years ago for building up the M2C ZRS bladders caps and pistons. Fortunately these EXB V2 shocks are also emulsion style. They have awesome dampening. As far as setting preload, I dial down the spring collars just enough so the truck rests at arms level to the ground front and back fully loaded after compression. 80-100 weight oil seems to work best on most of these 6s rigs. Landing square on all 4's makes a huge difference too. Chassis slap is a must with these rigs. 🍻
@5:04 that would have been sick. Yeah hey. Good effort tho im impartial to 8s 1/5th that sure looks like fun tho concrete hurts. Some good car control there. Watched it thru cause good vid anyway.
I use a countersink bit drill into the lower front a arm 2mm and throw that red cap away. Countersink because you can drill slowly. Regular bit to aggressive on plastic ya know.
I run budget packs. Zeee 4000mah 100C single 6s packs and Ovonic 5200mah 100C. I always cut off the jumper cable and solder on a single EC5. Less wire, less connectors = less resistance and less chance for problems.
Hi, I love the control you have in the air during the jumps, what oils do you use for the 3 differentials? What configuration at the esc level and on the radio control to have the car responsive and controllable?
The stock EXB arms are better than V5 geometry RPM ones unfortunately. I've busted a few, but every time I busted a stock arm it was my fault. The RPM rears bust in the same spot from bigger jumps even with clean landings 👀. My son Andrew had the same problem with his Firearm.
I ordered my EXB yesterday! What do you think of the Scorched RC skid? I am kind of drawn to the idea of throwing sparks.. even though the M2C seems has better support and coverage. I was also going to order standoffs and drive cups right away.. maybe even aluminum front hub carrier. Other than that jusrt a standard inspection of all screws, diff fluid change, etc. Great driving! ❤
No I didn't. You missed my earlier EXB V2 vids. I used the ARRMA EXB shim kit and replaced my LSD plates with the large washer shims. Not really a fan of LSD.
I prefer open diffs front and rear too. Rather just tune them with fluids and not deal with the changes in plate pressure and diff action while on throttle. Open diffs have more predictable handling and control.
Thanks Brother 👊. The Typhon 6s in "Truggified" form with larger wheels, hubs, and axels is still my favorite all around basher. The Outcast 8s and Talion 6s are definitely on my favorites list too. 😍
hey, loving your videos! I try to steal some of your tricks ;) can you tell me what 6s lipo you like for longevity? I need a new one for my Kraton. So many brands out there, don't want to waste my hard earned money.
Thanks so much Brother 👊. These days I've been running mostly Zeee and Ovonic packs. They seem to last as long and perform as well as pricier options. I like Hobbystar single 6s hard packs too, but prices have gotten high the past couple years.
What do you think of the Scorched Parts front Knuckles and rear caster blocks? I'm putting together my Xmas list, lol. I have the skid, shim kit, and +1 shafts on there. I don't jump over 4 ft.. wondering if they're good or bad idea. I know they have oversized bearing and stabilized the drvie parts, but do they transfer more damage to more expensive part like the bulkhead?
I've never ran Scorched knuckles or rear caster blocks to pass an opinion, but have heard good things about their parts. Personally, I'm fine with the lighter stock plastic ones. They simply don't fail often enough to justify upgrading.
@richduperbash2966 awesome skid and +1 shaft and send it lol. I remember I had the casters and blocks on my stampede and after 2 years the sand destroyed the tolerances.. plastic it is! I wonder if the new V6 casters will fix the front dog bone issue?
@@richduperbash2966 makes sense. As always thanks for communicating back to me and the viewers it really helps us who are still learning the Jedi ways! 😊👍
Not sure if I can abuse a $700 car like that. I know that's what they're built for. Just watching you do it hurts, and it's not even mine. I'm still buying one and bashing the he'll out of it😂
Yeah the longer V2 outdrives probably get torqued on more 🤔. I've had to replace a rear and my right front is super chipped up. I've heard the same from several others. Replaced mine with a V1 EXB spare I had handy.
How do you set your droop screws? I bought mine used and the screws are screwed all the way into the arms limiting nothing. Wasn’t sure if this is fine or if I should adjust them. Thanks
You want to remove both lower shock pins set your rig on a stand (wheels lifted). The droop screws job is to limit arm angle enough to take pressure off the lower shock rod. In essence you should have to lift the shock just slightly before the pin will line back up when inserting it (vs having to lift the arm to line up the rod end hole). Often the screw seated on the arm works fine. The newer models were designed with the droop screw plus washers underneath.
@@richduperbash2966 understood. Enough to take the strain from the shocks, but you don’t want to limit travel. Wonder how it would handle with the screws set to only let the arms go level?
I would have saved so much money and my kraton would weigh a lot less if I had just got the exb v2 instead of the v5 with lots of "upgrades" gained 2lbs 😅
@@richduperbash2966 Can you explain what part that is? I'm thinking you are talking about the part that connects the tower to tower brace to the diff case and rear wing all together. Is that it?
Try adjusting your RUclips settings. I have the same problem with other people's uploads. Often it's device dependent. If I cast a vid to my TV it's crystal clear. My camera is 1080p 60 fps, but it looks like 4k on my Vizio.
I've said it before, and I'll say it again, you are the KING of the skatepark!!!! INSANE airs and transitions!!! Thanks for punishing the parts!!!
Thanks so much Brother Avery for such Epic upgrades!!! Truly appreciate the kind words my friend 🙏
😂 king? More like grandfather! Go watch a kamakazi video and if you still feel that way, you’re either blind and or delusional
😂 king? More like grandfather! Go watch a kamakazi video and if you still feel that way, you’re either blind and or delusional!
😂 king? More like grandfather! Go watch a kamakazi video and if you still feel that way, you’re either blind and delusional
@m2cracing168 😂 king? More like grandfather! Go watch a kamakazi video and if you still feel that way, you’re either blind and delusional
Awesome rip at the skate park Rich definitely enjoyed the second half better. She took a pounding on the second half for sure that new bash bar is definitely a good upgrade for the guys wanting to keep the stock chassis gives it a little extra life I like to added length over, the competitors as well and how it ties into the chassis brace good idea by Mitch and Avery for sure. Stay cool my friend
🚀💪✌️👊
Thanks so much Brother Aldo 🤗. This rig has done killer overall basically stock. My motor leads were super loose after enough concrete hits 😂. The skid is a great option for guys that don't want to swap their chassis out. Definitely a sweet design and they priced it very affordably. Had a blast as always and grateful to get out. Have a great week Brother!!! 🍻🚀🚀
😂 you got Edwin launching some bombers 👍
Already have the titanium one installed from scorched RC. However, I'll give it up to M2C this time, theirs appears to be better, and the pricing is fair for a change.
I have one that was sold as a power hobby that looks identical to the scorched RC. Wonder if they are the same or if it was a knockoff.
Same I have the titanium one from powerhobby on my Typhon. I have 2 of these M2c braces coming tomorrow for my k6 exb v2’s! They look super nice.
That was a cool and different kind of video from you for sure. Always appreciate you taking time before and after a bash to explain your rigs and details. Thats something more RC you tubers could
Learn from for sure. 👍
Thanks Shawn. Much appreciated Brother 🍻
That launch to rail grind was insane! Great bashing and overall driving Rich!!
Thanks so much Brother 🤗. Much appreciated 🍻
Such a sick park. Nice driving.
Nice n’ mild session brother doopergiggles! “Genius upgrade” that both scorched and CRCU have been doing for a while now. But, they’re under brace is titanium for sparks and durability over aluminum. Very innovative.
Could be mistaken, but M3 out of Germany offered a CNC skid long before anyone for the ARRMA's. All the aftermarkets have their place. This design locks into the rear chassis brace nicely. Not sure if the others do or not 🤔. Titanium for sparks is cool, but I wouldn't pay extra for that personally. 🍻
@@richduperbash2966it’s just a bash bar cut in half and screwed into the rear chassis brace 🤷🏻♂️ the older style ones are screwed to the chassis and rear bulkhead not much “consistent innovation” there 🍻
Dude is this a back and forth about an upgrade option 😂. Guys can decide for themselves what makes sense for their needs and budgets. I still think an M2C chassis and simple RPM skid is perfect, but we're all different and not everyone has the funds or motivation to swap their chassis. This isn't about ground breaking innovation, it's a direct fit, no drilling holes upgrade. If you like the full "bash bar" concept then run it.
@@richduperbash2966 nah, bro. just pointing out the obvious. I have a EXB chassis on my k6 still with the RPM HD wing mount that has a plastic skidder and it’s holding up strong so far and I’ve sent it to what I thought was certain death at the skatepark and the hill of doom with almost NO damage. Chassis is still straight. Just had some loose hardware! These rigs can handle a lot more than people think and with a few upgrades and modifications, they’re almost bombproof. Just gotta know what you’re doing 😎🍻
That was some slick skatepark control sir! Pretty impressed with that Kraton EXB thats for dam sure.
Thank you Brother 🤗. The EXB V2 has been crazy impressive. The best 6s RTR I've ever owned 🍻
Skatepark 🤴! Always a pleasure to watch your seemingly effortless transitions! Great upload Rich!! Almost nailed the rail grind. That would have been sweet! My luck I would have destroyed my rc on that rail. 😂🤣🤣🤣 That is a nice skatepark with the different bowl options. 👍🤙💯
Thanks so very much Chad 🤗. Both parks are awesome with multiple potential lines. There were skaters/bikers in some spots, but grateful to get in some runtime 😍. Yeah tagging the upright of that rail is always a possibility 😱🤣🤣
My goodness that thing took some nasty hits in that bash what a tank. Great content as always brutha we can hear the joy in your voice 😂 rock on rc brutha🤘🤘🤘
Thanks so very much Brother 🤗. Grateful to finally get her back out!!! Truly appreciate it my friend 🍻😎💪👊👊
Awesome run buddy. Just checking in on vacation!! Take care
Thank you Brother 😁. Enjoy vacation!!! 😎💪👊👊
That is some insane driving skills .
Thank you Brother 🤗
Skateparks can be a blast, and also make your butt pucker. 🤣🤣🤣 I was in a deep bowl and had a good run going and was going to flip out of it, but the part I hit went straight up and the Kraton was about 20 feet straight up as I was puckered going , no, no, no and didn't touch the throttle or brake and was lucky enough it came straight back down smooth on the wall backwards as I was still pointing up. I for sure knew it was gonna hit the edge and I would have to do some major repairs. Got lucky that time. Nice run Rich.
🚀🚀💯%🔥🚀🚀 🤙
Haha Tony 😂. Much appreciated. Yes indeed the concrete and coping is to be respected. It's so much fun, yet so easy to get carried away and be reminded of the laws of physics 😱. Finding traction in smooth painted bowls is a challenge. I've had the pucker happen multiple times 🤣🤣. These days my biggest focus is not rolling an ankle or eating dung trying to enter and exit the bowls. I've hit my head before and won't forget it. Bash on Brother 🍻
The King is Back with a classic!! That M2C brace looks beefcake!! You put it through is paces. That would have been Sick if you could have pulled that jump to grind on the metal rail 😮 Always Next time!! Arrma outdid itself with this RTR!! It's Always cool to see you RIP the Concrete Jungle Rich!! You never fail to Impress Brother!! Stay safe and bash on from Colorado!!
Thanks so very much Ervin 🤗. The M2C skid brace is the easiest upgrade I've ever mounted. It's solid with the 6 mounting points 💪. Pulling that rail slide would've been epic. Now I know it's possible 😜. ARRMA outdid themselves with this V2 EXB RTR. Huge props to them for stepping it up. Truly appreciate it Brother!!! 🍻😎💪👊👊
Another awesome video! Love these new Arrmas.
Thank you Brother 🤗. Me too.
Nice run brother that exb is a beast 🤙
Thanks so much Mike 😊
Awesome bash AGAIN brother.... I've got about 4 runs on the new brace and I had my stock chassis bent after 3 runs so it's already lasted longer lol to be fair I had some nasty crashes causing my chassis to bend but this brace with the new EXB chassis is holding thru some abuse...
I've been having the issue with the driveshaft popping out I do have m2c driveshaft on the EXB, fireteam, and the typhon I'm almost finished building but I didn't get the +1mm my fireteams really bad about it I've removed them washers and all and I've now switch to m2c outdrives mine were beat up pretty good i hopefully fixed the fireteam we will see....
Keep be awesome my friend can't wait for the next one
Thanks so very much Brother 🤗. The stock standard chassis is hard to keep straight with harder bashing. The EXB version is definitely less bendy, but not M2C 7075 T6 by a longshot. That said, the V2 EXB is braced better without question. I've been lagging testing parts lately, but stoked to find some free time and get back out 😍. The +1 mm outdrives are an awesome option for the front end especially. Definitely gonna grab some for my Fireteam. Truly appreciate your comment Brother and happy bashing!!! 🍻😎💪👊👊
@@richduperbash2966 yeah I think if I still have this issue I'm gonna have to go plus 1 idk I feel like the trucks to new still to have front arms being warped plus I've replaced them once already lol
Really strugglin between dropping bug power in my X Maxx, or building one of these EXB v2's. I had a Maxx featuring several $$$ in upgrades, but I still found myself gravitating the the big X Maxx... I'm not sure if the 6s EXB would be enough to pull me away from the big guy.
The Kraton EXB V2 is a different machine altogether. Yes it's smaller, but it's way faster, more agile, durable, and easy to wrench on. I like my highly upgraded XMaxx for what it is, but the EXB V2 is the best all around RTR basher hands down. ARRMA outdid themselves with the upgrades. That's my honest opinion. 🤙
That launch to the rail was sick. What park is this?
Thanks Brother 😊. That's Granite skatepark in Sacramento.
wow ARRMA IS KILLING IT M2C AND ARRMA SHOULD TEAM UP LIKE THEY DID WITH LOSI YOUR BASHING IS ALWAYS FUN TO WATCH YOU DEFINETLY THE MAN RICH AWESOME RUN BRO💐💐💐
Thanks so very much Dhon 🤗. Sounds like a brilliant idea. Truly appreciate it Brother!!! 🍻😎💪👊👊
They’re back on stock today we’d , aug 14 . Sweet 👍
great bash with an awesome rig!
Thank you Brother 😁
Awesome as always great control. Hey brother will you know if the brace will work with the V5 Kraton.
Thanks so very much Brother 🤗. Pretty sure you could fit this on a V5. Because there's a 2nd rearward brace hole on the V2 EXB, I'd recommend drilling a hole in the chassis and adding a 2nd short bolt for added strength. May not be necessary, but would likely support the chassis better.
They sell them for both the exb and v5 Kraton but they’re out atm .
have you had any issues with the ears on the back of the sun gear in the diffs? every run those break off for me
I replaced the diff friction plates with the thick shims from the ARRMA EXB diff shim kit. This effectively eliminates any limited slip diff action and results in a classic open diff tuned with fluid of your choice. Several guys with the version 1 Kraton EXB had rear diff issues. I think there was a problem with the assembly end using the wrong shims. Not so much with the EXB RTR V2. It's possible your diff wasn't assembled properly from the factory 🤔. My sun gears have held fine with the 2.1mm washer shims that come in the shim kit.
In germany we make these braces for every vehicle since almost ten years now. The european tuning game is so far ahead of the American. Sadly little of it is seen on youtube.
I know M3 offered a great option many years ago. This one ties into the rear chassis brace without drilling chassis holes. Fortunately, America has it's share of great engineers, master machinists, and an awesome RC scene. There's a reason guys run M2C around the world. 🍻
Nice setup 👍, I really wanted that skid brace, but it doesn't work with my v2 RPM wing mount & wheelie bar.
One thing be cool someday Rich is explain how you set your shock spring tension. I know we all have to have some slap on chassis for sure but I continue to be amazed at how little hard slap you and some other have in your videos. Gotta be a Jedi trick or method of how you set this up?
Thanks Shawn 🤙. I did a shock setup vid years ago for building up the M2C ZRS bladders caps and pistons. Fortunately these EXB V2 shocks are also emulsion style. They have awesome dampening. As far as setting preload, I dial down the spring collars just enough so the truck rests at arms level to the ground front and back fully loaded after compression. 80-100 weight oil seems to work best on most of these 6s rigs. Landing square on all 4's makes a huge difference too. Chassis slap is a must with these rigs. 🍻
@@richduperbash2966 perfect I’ll find that video to so I’m fully educated.
It's a bit long winded to be honest, but there's some good tips to ensure your shocks work right. 🍻
ruclips.net/video/WVHC01ACuqc/видео.htmlsi=3Mj0Yj9v9PAjqB3y
@@richduperbash2966 I like long winded with details. I got a big tv in garage I watch all these vids when wrenching! Thanks again !
Hopefully they can do something for the typhon like this? Great bash rich!
Thanks Brother 🤗. I'm guessing they'll have one for the Typhon/Outcast soon 🍻
@5:04 that would have been sick. Yeah hey. Good effort tho im impartial to 8s 1/5th that sure looks like fun tho concrete hurts. Some good car control there. Watched it thru cause good vid anyway.
Thank you Brother 😁. Love the large scales too!!! The K6s EXB is a great all around basher. 🍻
That dude kahmakazirc should link with you and do a colab.
I use a countersink bit drill into the lower front a arm 2mm and throw that red cap away. Countersink because you can drill slowly. Regular bit to aggressive on plastic ya know.
Great tip Brother 👍. I'm a big fan of countersink bits. They allow very controlled incremental removal. Appreciate your comment 🍻
What batteries do you run? With punch maxed and the 16T pinion mine cogs like crazy with a CNHL 6000 6s, but is fine with 2 3s 7500s
I run budget packs. Zeee 4000mah 100C single 6s packs and Ovonic 5200mah 100C. I always cut off the jumper cable and solder on a single EC5. Less wire, less connectors = less resistance and less chance for problems.
Hi, I love the control you have in the air during the jumps, what oils do you use for the 3 differentials?
What configuration at the esc level and on the radio control to have the car responsive and controllable?
Thanks Brother 👊. Running 50/500/20k front to rear diffs. ESC is set to max punch and I think 32% brake.
Surprised the back arms held up, I heard a lot of people are breaking them.
The stock EXB arms are better than V5 geometry RPM ones unfortunately. I've busted a few, but every time I busted a stock arm it was my fault. The RPM rears bust in the same spot from bigger jumps even with clean landings 👀. My son Andrew had the same problem with his Firearm.
I ordered my EXB yesterday! What do you think of the Scorched RC skid? I am kind of drawn to the idea of throwing sparks.. even though the M2C seems has better support and coverage. I was also going to order standoffs and drive cups right away.. maybe even aluminum front hub carrier. Other than that jusrt a standard inspection of all screws, diff fluid change, etc. Great driving! ❤
Thank you Brother 👊. Scorched makes nice parts. I do like the design of the M2C skid better though. Congrats on your new EXB 🍻
Just order this skid for mine. What pinion size do you run? And have you upgraded fans to handle it? Diff fluid weights? Thanks
I generally run a 16T pinion (Robinson Racing #1216) with the stock 2050kv motor, no fans needed. Diffs are 50/500/20k front to back. 🍻
@@richduperbash2966 thanks for replying! Did you keep the LSD in all the diffs?
No I didn't. You missed my earlier EXB V2 vids. I used the ARRMA EXB shim kit and replaced my LSD plates with the large washer shims. Not really a fan of LSD.
@@richduperbash2966yeah you said you had made the center diff open. Was just curious on if you liked the front and rear open better also
I prefer open diffs front and rear too. Rather just tune them with fluids and not deal with the changes in plate pressure and diff action while on throttle. Open diffs have more predictable handling and control.
crazy man!! what is your top 3 trucks?
Thanks Brother 👊. The Typhon 6s in "Truggified" form with larger wheels, hubs, and axels is still my favorite all around basher. The Outcast 8s and Talion 6s are definitely on my favorites list too. 😍
hey, loving your videos! I try to steal some of your tricks ;) can you tell me what 6s lipo you like for longevity? I need a new one for my Kraton. So many brands out there, don't want to waste my hard earned money.
Thanks so much Brother 👊. These days I've been running mostly Zeee and Ovonic packs. They seem to last as long and perform as well as pricier options. I like Hobbystar single 6s hard packs too, but prices have gotten high the past couple years.
@@richduperbash2966 thanks so much for your recommendations! i ordered some Zeee lipos at a great price ✌
I bought this same brace with same chassis sent it 4 times it taco the brace and chassis 😢 so wtf 😂
Damn that sucks Brother 😕. I'd email M2C and ask for a replacement Nothing is indestructible, but that's unfortunate.
What do you think of the Scorched Parts front Knuckles and rear caster blocks? I'm putting together my Xmas list, lol. I have the skid, shim kit, and +1 shafts on there. I don't jump over 4 ft.. wondering if they're good or bad idea. I know they have oversized bearing and stabilized the drvie parts, but do they transfer more damage to more expensive part like the bulkhead?
I've never ran Scorched knuckles or rear caster blocks to pass an opinion, but have heard good things about their parts. Personally, I'm fine with the lighter stock plastic ones. They simply don't fail often enough to justify upgrading.
@richduperbash2966 awesome skid and +1 shaft and send it lol. I remember I had the casters and blocks on my stampede and after 2 years the sand destroyed the tolerances.. plastic it is!
I wonder if the new V6 casters will fix the front dog bone issue?
I'm surprised it still has the stock chassis and not a M2C 1 yet
The V2 chassis has done surprisingly well 👀. I've tried to run this rig stock as long as possible.
You run your punch super high on stock esc to get that air control Rich?
I always max the punch out because I want full power available without delay. It's easy to adjust to and comes in handy 👌
@@richduperbash2966 makes sense. As always thanks for communicating back to me and the viewers it really helps us who are still learning the Jedi ways! 😊👍
Not sure if I can abuse a $700 car like that. I know that's what they're built for. Just watching you do it hurts, and it's not even mine. I'm still buying one and bashing the he'll out of it😂
Your still running on the original stock outdrives? Mine broke 10 min into my first run.
Yeah the longer V2 outdrives probably get torqued on more 🤔. I've had to replace a rear and my right front is super chipped up. I've heard the same from several others. Replaced mine with a V1 EXB spare I had handy.
How do you set your droop screws? I bought mine used and the screws are screwed all the way into the arms limiting nothing. Wasn’t sure if this is fine or if I should adjust them. Thanks
You want to remove both lower shock pins set your rig on a stand (wheels lifted). The droop screws job is to limit arm angle enough to take pressure off the lower shock rod. In essence you should have to lift the shock just slightly before the pin will line back up when inserting it (vs having to lift the arm to line up the rod end hole). Often the screw seated on the arm works fine. The newer models were designed with the droop screw plus washers underneath.
@@richduperbash2966 understood. Enough to take the strain from the shocks, but you don’t want to limit travel. Wonder how it would handle with the screws set to only let the arms go level?
Well.... arms level works great for speed runs, but it's too stiff and bouncy for rougher off-road use or bashing.
What's your esc settings
Punch is maxed and brake is 37%. Think I turned up the BEC if it wasn't already.
Hi Rich 😀
Happy bashing Brother 🤗
This vid made me put a 6s on a charger , lol
That's awesome Brother 😍
I would have saved so much money and my kraton would weigh a lot less if I had just got the exb v2 instead of the v5 with lots of "upgrades" gained 2lbs 😅
The V2 EXB is pretty awesome overall. Still needs aluminum rear suspension blocks and a few tidbits to make truly solid though.
@@richduperbash2966 Can you explain what part that is? I'm thinking you are talking about the part that connects the tower to tower brace to the diff case and rear wing all together. Is that it?
The suspension blocks bolt to the front and back of the bulkheads and hold the hinge pins and control arms in place.
@@richduperbash2966 Thanks 👍
Screen jitter making me nauseous
Try adjusting your RUclips settings. I have the same problem with other people's uploads. Often it's device dependent. If I cast a vid to my TV it's crystal clear. My camera is 1080p 60 fps, but it looks like 4k on my Vizio.
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budget🤣. must be nice to be loaded
This upgrade is priced very reasonably considering it's CNC machined in the USA 🍻