I like this design because I can always put sides on it later or even add drawers in the future.I am a welder with almost 23yrs experience so I am looking to expand into woodworking as well.
Nice to see someone build something decent, sharing their knowledge and ability, taking the time to explain what they are doing and why they are doing it, without trying to sell the viewer their own and their sponsors stuff Thanks you! From someone who's tired of watching builds that are just thinly veiled adverts!
Thank you, I thought it was an interesting way to build a simple project that I use almost everyday. I’m glad my way of doing things can resonate with people. Thanks for watching!
I made this table and it's handy dandy. The one major modification I made was just plugging the router into a foot switch instead of rewiring anything.
Thanks for the build. I’m tired of my box store router stand as well. Might I suggest adding a small chamfer to the bottom of the fence face, so sawdust buildup doesn’t cause small errors between the fence and workpiece. Again, TY.
Nicely done Pete. I like how you filmed, documented and built your router table. I am going to model mine after yours and will let you know how it turns out. Thanks, man.
You just gave me an unintended tip. I’ve been changing the router bits with the base attached. What a pain. Never thought to remove it first. So stupid I am. Thanks!
Glad I could help! That’s one of the best parts of the RUclips community. We can all learn from each other and see what works in our shops. Thanks for watching!
I suggest using sealed outdoor electrical boxes as those ones you used can fill up with dust, and then with any sparking, be a fire and explosion hazard.
Thanks Antonio, most of my tools are hand me downs or garage sale. My “newest tool” is my Dewalt router set, but I got that off of Craigslist used! We make do with what we have and make up for it with our creativity. Thanks for watching! Pete
It was a bit wobbly! I was moving the router up by hand. The router has a depth adjustable that clamps in place,it is made I assume to make the adjustment and then start the router. I was trying to be cool and do it while it was on and not clamped down and film it. Thanks for watching and please subscribe if you think I earned it. Pete
I'm surprised you don't have more subscribers and views. Great vid, simple, no-nonsense and just the right amount of humor. this will def be the router table I build this week. Since you're not using a Sawstop some better table saw safety would be good, if I can offer that. Put a splitter or a riving knife (better) on there, mate.
Thank you for the encouragement! I do have my eye on an upgraded saw from Jet or grizzly with a riving knife that moves up or down with the blade. Thanks for watching out!
@@PetesGarageWorkshop I have an old Grizzly I finished refurbishing, just cut down a shelf bracket that was .01 thinner than the kerf and installed it as a splitter. Took 20 minutes and I feel so much safer now from kickback.
Nice work. I would just do a small change the way you set the fence. I would let the full continuous face as fence instead of the joint showing on the fence. That way you can sure you have dead flat surface instead of any irregularities the joint may exhibit.
Thanks for the suggestion. I ended up having to sand that plywood end grain a bit. If I rebuild I’ll definitely extend that face all the way down. Thanks for watching! Pete
Nice build. Even I could do it. I think I'll copy this one. I'm curious though. I see a lot of wood workers doing the dado with multiple cuts. Why not turn the board 90 degrees and raise the blade on the end cuts? Thank you for your efforts. I understand more than most that the video doesn't jump from the camera to RUclips...
Hi! I think you could do the dado/ half lap joint like that. I would want to build a jig similar to a tenoning jig to cut the “ cheeks” of the tenon off. To secure the wood while cutting that tall of a cut. It would definitely be quicker than all those little cuts. I think I did it that way because l had one way of doing it in my mind, never thought of a better/ efficient way. Thanks for seeing it a different way!
@@PetesGarageWorkshop Yes! I went in a slightly different direction by mortising a spot underneath an existing table, but the power switch and dust collection are still in the works. It's functional right now, just... dusty. Cheers 😎
Nice, and much less complicated than some of the builds I've seen. I'm intending to adjust your design for a tabletop version, but I'm definitely copying that idea with the toggle clamps. Love the idea that the surface can be cleared for larger pieces (even though the dust might prompt a rethink).
Thanks! Yeah when I remove the dust chute it does get all over. I try and do that outside, much to the joy of my neighbors. If you come up with a good idea for dust collection let me know.
Nice job - very functional and clean. Thanks for sharing - watching other woodworkers always gives me techniques, tips, and new tools and tricks for my own toolbox!
Interesting build, like the half lap look. Second the motion re safety. Interesting table saw, resembles my 1983 Craftsman. The miter gauge looks different, might be a Fulton? Do you like it? And what are those white table saw extension wings? Formica? White painted plywood? Stamped sheet metal? Just curious. Need to replace mine. Best wishes and stay safe!
Hi Joe, My table saw is a Jet jwts-10 inch. It’s from the early 90s, I bought it off Craigslist in 2005 for $400. The extension wings are stamped sheet metal, the miter gauge is fairly rugged, I think it’s factory included. I tend to not use it in favor of a panel jig for cutting boards, just my work flow. The saw is just the right size for me and my one car garage. I like it but have struggled over the years with dust collection. I stuffed the gaps and metal taped the seams to reduce dust but it really needs an over the blade vacuum system. It’s on the list of to do! Other thing is the splitter mechanism does not move with the blade so using a dado blade requires I remove it. Not too big of a deal. Best upgrade I made to it was not to the saw but to the dust collector attached. Shameless plug for my dust collector video! It may not get all the large chips but it really gets the fine dust. Good luck! Thanks for watching! Subscribe if you think I earned it. Pete
Nice design and construction. But, I must comment: You need to think more about safety before it is too late. Get a riving knife for that table saw before kickback gets you. Also, lower the blade to only the necessary level. Be careful, brother--things happen very fast with power tools.
Hey Pete, I love the design and build. I'm confused about how you connected the router to the table top. Are the screws long enough to go through the table and into the router? Tnaks!!
Hi Richard, Yes that’s exactly right. The original screws that hold the clear plastic base on the router were not long enough. I drilled and countersunk new longer screws through the router table and into the metal router base housing. The clear plastic base was used as a drill template to line up the screw holes. I wish I didn’t lose that part of the video, I thought it was interesting to use the original base as a template, but somehow I lost the clip. Thanks for watching and please subscribe if I earned it! Pete
I've been wanting to purchase a router table; however, I think I'm gonna try to build my own. I already have the Ryobi electric router and I have a work bench from Harbor Freight. I'm gonna modify and turn it into a router table. Great video......
Thanks! I liked the Ryobi table I had I just outgrew it with the type of projects. Good luck with your build, it will open up many more project possibilities! Thanks for watching! Pete
Hi Yvette, Yes it just sits on top. I opted to use wood banding to hold it in place rather than secure the table top down. I frequently change bits and this ended up being an easy way to do it. Thanks for watching, Pete
I've already built my router table and I'm reasonably happy with it, but I *do* have a bear of a time keeping the fence in place when the router bit is trying to push the wood to one side. I'm definitely going to get myself some of those HF clamps. Those look slick. Thanks for a great video!
Thanks! They were a really simple way of removing the fence quickly. I'm thinking of making a taller fence version for more stability. Thanks for watching!
Pat, while you're at HF look for some larger rubber pads with holes in the center and replace those small pads with the bigger ones. I saw a video where a guy was having the same problem and that is how he corrected it. I think he said it cost him all of like $1.00 to fix.
Thank you, I would love to be a powermatic or festool guy but the cost is just a bit outside my range. HF has a place in my shop for the simple things like clamps and router bits I use once or twice a year. Take care!
Hi sjfjonas, Thanks for watching my video. I do have a link in the comments to my sketch up file for the router table build. You can find all the dimensions you need there. Thanks for watching! Pete
That is a big table in front of the router, seems you may always be pushing from the side and rarely from the front. Think about inserting flush to table two aligned rulers on the surface to help align the fence.
Hi Robert, I have been thinking of doing that. My original idea was to sink done t-slots with marks in the table but the clamp idea ended up winning. Thanks for watching! Pete
Lovely Work. Very Enjoyable and a sturdy correctly built table. Thank you I will probably follow this for my own build - I have the same Ryobi - in fact it is shocking how much Ozito and Ryobi power tools that I still have and works very well indeed after 4 or 5 years. I thought they would break once the box was opened. Nice DeWalt too!
Hey, This looks really great. I'm trying different versions of a table saw platform for my DW618 now. Here's the dumb problem I'm having. How are you attaching the router to the board? Are you just using the same holes as the clear plastic plate and getting longer screws so it fits through the wood, but not too long so it pops above the board? The step where you attached the router base to the board is edited out. Maybe distracted by your son's daily story? ;) I see other videos where the router seems to have screw holes that go all the way through the base to connect to a nut But your base and mine only have hole for the plastic plate and don't go all the way through.
Hi Carl, you are absolutely right. I used the same holes as the factory baseplate and installed longer screws that were countersunk into the top surface. Thanks for watching!
How big do the holes on the fence need to be, how does it line up with the router bit? Also, how is the router attached to the table? Do I need to buy a router table insert plate? I have an identical DeWalt DW618 router.
Hi Steven, The hole I chose was, I think, 2 inches. And I mirrored that to the fence. I was going for what I thought was a better dust collection. The router is screwed to the underside of the table. The factory base plate is clear plastic, I removed it and screwed to the underside. Hope that helps! Pete
Those clamps you used first are not very good. I have found out to my cost. I clamped a straight edge in place using them. Then run my router along the straight edge only to have the straight move taking my router and cutting route with it. After which I vowed only to use positive screw clamps.
Thanks for the comment and insight on the clamps. I ran into a bit of movement also when running long or heavy pieces. I added some 220 adhesive back sandpaper to the bottom of the fence and ensure the clamps were tight every time I use or move them. That seems to help with my bit of wiggle I had. If I do run into more movement I’ll definitely add screw clamps to the fence, maybe route a channel and have them mounted to the table. Thanks for the idea! Pete
Genius! Love those joints and craftsmanship. Thank you for sharing. I was looking a £250 router table, I think you might have just saved me some quid. Happy new year
Your welcome! Can't go wrong with simple half laps. Making your own shop gear to suit your needs is the best idea. It can be exactly what you need it to be. Thanks for watching!
I realize this is an old video. I have already built the base for this table. I am going to do the top today. However I am notsure how to attach the top to the table. Can anyone off me some advise?
Hello, I actually didn’t attach the top to the base. My idea was it would be easier to lift it up to remove the router from the base. I attached some trim around the underside of the top to get a snug fit when it’s set in place so it doesn’t slide around. If you want to secure the top to the base I would screw from the underside with pocket holes to hide the screw hole. Drilling into the underside of the table. I hope that works for you. Good luck finishing the project, I’m sure it will turn out great! Pete
Hi Larry, Are you able to adjust the depth of the router motor? I have the fixed base router that can move up and down with a ring manually. It can adjust the collet so it’s almost flush with the underside of the bed. I also use a longer 1/2 inch bit to clear the router bed and poke out of the bed. Hope that helps, Pete
@@PetesGarageWorkshop Hi Pete, Well, when all else fails, try following instructions... don't know why, but I kept trying to make it work with the plunge base. Once i switched to fixed base - perfect. Thanks for the follow up.
Did you ever consider dropping the Ryobi metal router table top into a larger work surface attached to the base you built? You might have used the same adjustable fence. Just a thought...
I did give it a thought but the Ryobi router I had in the table was not able to accept some of my larger bits. The fence was ok but having a taller, longer, and more stable, easier to adjust fence was worth the build to me. Plus I wanted to gift the Ryobi table to a buddy who didn’t have a router table. It ended up working out for both of us! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this video! I will be starting a table build of my own soon and am seriously considering this router exactly as you have used it. I want to use a router with its own height adjustment so I don't need a lift. How do you find the bit height adjustment with this router? Is it reasonable easy to get the precise height you want and lock it in? Have you ever had any bit height drop while you are using? Thanks!
Your welcome! It was fun making this video. The router I used has a simple twist collar that snaps tightly. The bit height is ok, no real way to set it and forget. I typically use ornamental bits for making edges look nice so I don’t really measure the bit height, I normally use a scrap block and try until I like the look. This isn’t exactly 1/64th inch precision but it’s ok for what I have been making. After I set the locking collar I have never had I bit slip down and ruin an edge. For dados I do get a bit more precise. I use a couple of known height blocks like two 1/4 strips of plywood stacked together with the top one overhanging so I get a good 1/4 inch height. Same for 1/2 and combine them for 3/4 inch. Use them as a known height and run the bit up until it just touches the underside of the stip and lock it down. There are many alternatives out there like kreg setup blocks but my simple stacked blocks works good for me. I hope that help!
Hi mate. I'm not expert but isn't it dangerous using that table saw with no riving knife? My mate got a cracked jaw doing that a bit of wood flew back and hit him in the face
Hi Juan, Sorry I don’t remember what type of screws they were other than they were 1.5 inches long. I found a couple that fit in my parts drawer and cut them to size. You could take yours to a hardware store and see if they have what you need. Good luck and thank for watching!
I just updated the link with the same vertical style clamp. I had that link in my notes to update but never did. I like this style because it forms a kind of handle when it’s in the clamping position. Thanks for watching!....very closely! Pete
Hi Tim, No, I didn’t film that part. I skipped ahead and mounted the router holder to the underside. I was thinking about the cool shot of the bit cutting up through the top surface. The router plate just needed a couple longer screws and mounted together just like the clear plexiglass base I removed. Thanks for watching! Pete
Its like building.a 3D printer , you spent more time printing upgrades than doing work :) Will build this and then build my dream PC Tv audio wall unit.
good build , quick and easy and not too flowery like a lot of these makers, also good to see you start like the rest of us with a cheap 100 dollar one until you can get the skill to make your own!! is there a number please on the toggle clamps please or an approximate length, these are something we don't see in europe, i can get them from ali express, no harbour freight in Spain, also i wondered whether it would be worth putting a smooth veneer on the fence like the router table so it slides nicely along the edge. Hows it going also 2 years on? my CNC just arrived from Open Builds so finally i have to make some table machines for prepping and finishing, have all the hand tools but never needed them in a table environment until my little cnc came a year ago, spent the year learning how to design and program it and saving and spent as much as i could on a large 1 square metre lead screw open builds machine that i cant afford the table saw or router table now so I'll have to build them now on the 3018 i had didnt really need the table machines but now definitely...thanks for posting ....very rare you see the original machine you upgraded from....Thanks
Thank you for the comments. The toggle clamps were just basic ones, I think they were 4-5inch reach clamps. I bet Ali express and harbor freight get them from the same place. If you routing talk stock a larger veneered fence would come in handy! I use this router almost once a week, it has been holding up great. The mobile base was really the way to go due to the weight. Thanks!
How in the world did you get your router bit to go that high from under all that table top? Most routers must drop in from the top, you made yours reach from the bottom. You must have left out a step like thinning out from under so your router base reaches higher or something. Any input in welcome!
Hi PlainOIBill, I was lucky that I didn’t have to thin out the top. The fixed base I used had enough movement to allow the router arbor to extend well above the bottom of the table. I am able to extend the height of the bits by using 1/2 inch arbor size bits. Usually they are taller than the 1/4 inch bits. I measured the max height I can extend my tallest and shortest bit. The tallest was a 1/2 inch straight cut bit that has a 2 inch cut surface. I can still hold over half the bit securely and still get 1 and 3/4 inch of cutting surface. Not that I have used it, but good to know I can if I need it. The 1/4 inch arbor bits are another story. Since I use them more for edge profiles I don’t have to extend them too far. Think of a 1/2 chamfer bit or a 3/8 ogee bit. I can only extend them just beyond the bottom of my smallest bit. It’s a 1/4 round over bit. In this case I usually switch over to my trim router. I hope that helps, it’s all in the fixed router base that came with the kit.
Yep. I finished this build last week only to find that my Bosch router would not clear the surface adequately. I switched to 1/2 inch and it solved the problem.
Hi John, I used an older model craftsman brad nailer with 18 gauge nails from harbor freight. I think they were 1.5 inch long. I found the brad nailer at a swap meet for 25 bucks, just had to put some oil in it and replace the leaking hose attachment and I was good to go. It’s been great ever since. Thanks for watching! Pete
Your welcome, I think I used a 1.5 inch forstner bit to cut that hole. Gave me plenty of room around the bits I have. If I upgrade to larger bits I’ll make some inserts for it.
you didn't say how you knew where to place the router template looks like 4 inches from side and did not say what size hole to drill for the router or the fence. If you could help me out I would really appreciate it a lot. I love this build.
Hi Charles, your right I didn’t really go over that. I just kinda eyeballed the template because you may or may not be using the same one I am. I planned on using this router table to round over picture frames. I tried to place the router template and hole as far as I could to the side and not obstruct the structure underneath. I have seen people place routers in the center of a table and it worked out fine for them. I just wanted to use it from the front where the power switch was on, not reaching all around the table. The router hole is 5.5 inches from the side of the table and the hole for the bits is 1.75 inches wide. I’m not planning on using large bits so this was as wide as I plan on going. Depending on your needs you might need to go smaller or larger. Thanks for watching!
That board is a 3/4 inch melamine plywood. It has a nice slick side and a regular plywood side. It works great for me. It’s like countertop kitchen table type stuff. I cut mine from an old entertainment center.
Hello Alfonso, I had some counter sunk screws that just so happened to fit the threads on the router housing. I should have gone to the store with the original and bought the proper screw. These have been holding up great though. Thanks!
Hey Oggie, I think you referring to SketchUp. Its a design software I use for all my projects. It’s free and works great for woodworking projects. I use it in a lot of my videos. Thanks for watching! Pete
Hi Bogdan, I use Sketch-up for most of my projects. I’m looking into switching over to Fusion 360 but Sketch-up is so easy to jump into. Plus Sketch-up is free! Thanks for watching!
Sure, its the black RZ mesh mask from rzmask.com with the standard filter. I like it so far, way better than the paper masks, easy to clean and replace the filters. Enjoy!
I used the router holder housing that came with the kit. I had some small screws that secured it to the underside of the table. The holder had screws that held the plastic base in place, I just removed it and used it as a template to drill screw holes.
Thanks! I did plan on installing T track but I just never got around to needing it. The fence I built has been enough with the addition of the clamps under the bed. The only addition I really needed was an easier way to move the table around. The wheel upgrade video I made was the only update I have made so far. I really recommend building a large routing table like this. I have made a couple big picture frames with routed edges that came out great due to this addition to my shop. Let us know how your build goes!
He said he hadn't figured out how to mount the router and then didn't show how it was done. That's all I was looking to see. The rest was just building a table
I’m also interested in knowing how to mount this router to the table. Pete, it looks like you figured it out. Can you please explain how this was done, or add a video? Does anyone else have an answer? Thanks.
Hello there, Sorry about not addressing how I mounted the router in the video. I used the clear plastic base plate off the fixed router base as a template for screw holes. From the work side of the router top I countersunk longer screws into the fixed base and used that to secure the router. I lose a bit of depth with my bits because my table is thick but it secures the router great. I hope this helps!
Hi Alan, That can be tricky, but I would still use the router table and recut the groove with an appropriate bit the width you need. Just line up center of the dado and center of the new wider bit and lock the fence down and recut. Thanks for watching, Pete
Hey Jimmy, I attached the router holder body to the bottom. There is a pressure latch to release and two little retaining clips you press and the router motor slides out. The whole operation take 10 seconds to do. I hope you enjoyed the video! Thanks for watching.
Nice job, apart from your horrific saw skills. I see that you don't have a splitter behind your blade, therefore, if you're using a push stick; always push towards the fence and NEVER towards the blade. It's the best guarantee you'll have a kickback one day... read about it, please. As well, you're bending far over the turning blade... doing so, is waiting for an accident. Moreoverl, I saw how you're using your cross cut saw. Make sure that 1 end is always free instead of 'locking up' your piece of wood. The back of your blade will launch the wood around one day, if you look at it in your movie, the piece of wood is already lifting up in the end. I hope you'll consider my comments, or search here on RUclips for 'table saw kickback'. Remember, a table saw is a fantastic tool... but a very deadly device in the wrong hands. Good luck!
If thats what you prefer go for it. For me it depends on what I hope to get out of a project. If the final goal is just to have a thing that’s ok. Or is it to have the satisfaction of knowing you can build the thing?
![YoungBoy Never Broke Again - Missing Everything [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dTYeMZGzOzw/mqdefault.jpg)
I like this design because I can always put sides on it later or even add drawers in the future.I am a welder with almost 23yrs experience so I am looking to expand into woodworking as well.
Nice to see someone build something decent, sharing their knowledge and ability, taking the time to explain what they are doing and why they are doing it, without trying to sell the viewer their own and their sponsors stuff
Thanks you!
From someone who's tired of watching builds that are just thinly veiled adverts!
Thank you, I thought it was an interesting way to build a simple project that I use almost everyday. I’m glad my way of doing things can resonate with people.
Thanks for watching!
I made this table and it's handy dandy. The one major modification I made was just plugging the router into a foot switch instead of rewiring anything.
That’s a great idea. Glad it worked out well!
Thanks for the clear instruction without frivolous unnecessary comments. I plan to build this table.
Your welcome, glad you found it worthwhile. I’m so glad I upgraded to a larger table.
Thanks for the build. I’m tired of my box store router stand as well. Might I suggest adding a small chamfer to the bottom of the fence face, so sawdust buildup doesn’t cause small errors between the fence and workpiece. Again, TY.
Nicely done Pete. I like how you filmed, documented and built your router table. I am going to model mine after yours and will let you know how it turns out. Thanks, man.
That’s great Kim.
I’m glad I could help, looking forward to hearing about your build!
Pete
You just gave me an unintended tip. I’ve been changing the router bits with the base attached. What a pain. Never thought to remove it first. So stupid I am. Thanks!
Glad I could help! That’s one of the best parts of the RUclips community. We can all learn from each other and see what works in our shops.
Thanks for watching!
I suggest using sealed outdoor electrical boxes as those ones you used can fill up with dust, and then with any sparking, be a fire and explosion hazard.
Nice!! I like the fact that my tools look like yours, not like hi-tech equipment that is out of reach for most mortals.
Thanks Antonio, most of my tools are hand me downs or garage sale. My “newest tool” is my Dewalt router set, but I got that off of Craigslist used!
We make do with what we have and make up for it with our creativity.
Thanks for watching!
Pete
Great video! Very easy to follow and entertaining. Thanks Pete.
Thank you Hanif, I’m glad you enjoyed it.
Pete
When you made the hole for the router with the router itself. It seemed a bit wobbly. Maybe my mind was tricking me 😅
It was a bit wobbly! I was moving the router up by hand. The router has a depth adjustable that clamps in place,it is made I assume to make the adjustment and then start the router. I was trying to be cool and do it while it was on and not clamped down and film it.
Thanks for watching and please subscribe if you think I earned it.
Pete
The backer board is a great and cheap idea. I may just steal that. I did not want to splurge on formply or separate formica sheets
I'm surprised you don't have more subscribers and views. Great vid, simple, no-nonsense and just the right amount of humor. this will def be the router table I build this week. Since you're not using a Sawstop some better table saw safety would be good, if I can offer that. Put a splitter or a riving knife (better) on there, mate.
Thank you for the encouragement! I do have my eye on an upgraded saw from Jet or grizzly with a riving knife that moves up or down with the blade.
Thanks for watching out!
@@PetesGarageWorkshop I have an old Grizzly I finished refurbishing, just cut down a shelf bracket that was .01 thinner than the kerf and installed it as a splitter. Took 20 minutes and I feel so much safer now from kickback.
Nice work. I would just do a small change the way you set the fence. I would let the full continuous face as fence instead of the joint showing on the fence. That way you can sure you have dead flat surface instead of any irregularities the joint may exhibit.
Thanks for the suggestion. I ended up having to sand that plywood end grain a bit. If I rebuild I’ll definitely extend that face all the way down.
Thanks for watching!
Pete
Simple yet functional. The fence clamps were a great idea. Nice work young Sir!
Thanks Al, glad you liked them. Gotta keep it simple!
Well Done! I liked your scripts without no words. Ciao!
Hi Jeffrey,
It’s not so easy to build and film it. I know I make it look easy, jk.
I’m glad you liked it!
Pete
Nice build. Even I could do it. I think I'll copy this one. I'm curious though. I see a lot of wood workers doing the dado with multiple cuts. Why not turn the board 90 degrees and raise the blade on the end cuts? Thank you for your efforts. I understand more than most that the video doesn't jump from the camera to RUclips...
Hi! I think you could do the dado/ half lap joint like that. I would want to build a jig similar to a tenoning jig to cut the “ cheeks” of the tenon off. To secure the wood while cutting that tall of a cut. It would definitely be quicker than all those little cuts.
I think I did it that way because l had one way of doing it in my mind, never thought of a better/ efficient way. Thanks for seeing it a different way!
- Good job. No fancy stuff. Luv it. Thanx 4 sharing.
You’re welcome, glad you enjoyed it.
Pete
Saved to come back to this in a few hours.
Did you come back?
@@PetesGarageWorkshop Yes! I went in a slightly different direction by mortising a spot underneath an existing table, but the power switch and dust collection are still in the works. It's functional right now, just... dusty. Cheers 😎
Nice, and much less complicated than some of the builds I've seen.
I'm intending to adjust your design for a tabletop version, but I'm definitely copying that idea with the toggle clamps. Love the idea that the surface can be cleared for larger pieces (even though the dust might prompt a rethink).
Thanks! Yeah when I remove the dust chute it does get all over. I try and do that outside, much to the joy of my neighbors. If you come up with a good idea for dust collection let me know.
Nice job - very functional and clean. Thanks for sharing - watching other woodworkers always gives me techniques, tips, and new tools and tricks for my own toolbox!
Thank you William, glad you liked it!
Interesting build, like the half lap look.
Second the motion re safety.
Interesting table saw, resembles my 1983 Craftsman. The miter gauge looks different, might be a Fulton? Do you like it?
And what are those white table saw extension wings? Formica? White painted plywood? Stamped sheet metal? Just curious. Need to replace mine.
Best wishes and stay safe!
Hi Joe,
My table saw is a Jet jwts-10 inch. It’s from the early 90s, I bought it off Craigslist in 2005 for $400. The extension wings are stamped sheet metal, the miter gauge is fairly rugged, I think it’s factory included. I tend to not use it in favor of a panel jig for cutting boards, just my work flow.
The saw is just the right size for me and my one car garage.
I like it but have struggled over the years with dust collection. I stuffed the gaps and metal taped the seams to reduce dust but it really needs an over the blade vacuum system. It’s on the list of to do!
Other thing is the splitter mechanism does not move with the blade so using a dado blade requires I remove it. Not too big of a deal.
Best upgrade I made to it was not to the saw but to the dust collector attached. Shameless plug for my dust collector video! It may not get all the large chips but it really gets the fine dust.
Good luck! Thanks for watching! Subscribe if you think I earned it.
Pete
@@PetesGarageWorkshop Thanks!
Nice design and construction. But, I must comment: You need to think more about safety before it is too late. Get a riving knife for that table saw before kickback gets you. Also, lower the blade to only the necessary level. Be careful, brother--things happen very fast with power tools.
Self True, Great advice. As a newbie, safety tips are always welcomed.
Hey Pete, I love the design and build. I'm confused about how you connected the router to the table top. Are the screws long enough to go through the table and into the router?
Tnaks!!
Hi Richard,
Yes that’s exactly right. The original screws that hold the clear plastic base on the router were not long enough. I drilled and countersunk new longer screws through the router table and into the metal router base housing.
The clear plastic base was used as a drill template to line up the screw holes. I wish I didn’t lose that part of the video, I thought it was interesting to use the original base as a template, but somehow I lost the clip.
Thanks for watching and please subscribe if I earned it!
Pete
I've been wanting to purchase a router table; however, I think I'm gonna try to build my own. I already have the Ryobi electric router and I have a work bench from Harbor Freight. I'm gonna modify and turn it into a router table. Great video......
Thanks! I liked the Ryobi table I had I just outgrew it with the type of projects. Good luck with your build, it will open up many more project possibilities!
Thanks for watching!
Pete
I missed what you did with the table top and being removable. Does it just sit there
Hi Yvette,
Yes it just sits on top. I opted to use wood banding to hold it in place rather than secure the table top down. I frequently change bits and this ended up being an easy way to do it.
Thanks for watching,
Pete
I've already built my router table and I'm reasonably happy with it, but I *do* have a bear of a time keeping the fence in place when the router bit is trying to push the wood to one side. I'm definitely going to get myself some of those HF clamps. Those look slick. Thanks for a great video!
Thanks! They were a really simple way of removing the fence quickly. I'm thinking of making a taller fence version for more stability. Thanks for watching!
Pat, while you're at HF look for some larger rubber pads with holes in the center and replace those small pads with the bigger ones. I saw a video where a guy was having the same problem and that is how he corrected it. I think he said it cost him all of like $1.00 to fix.
Good job sir, i enjoyed watching. And i see you are a Harbor Freight guy like a lot of us.
Thank you, I would love to be a powermatic or festool guy but the cost is just a bit outside my range. HF has a place in my shop for the simple things like clamps and router bits I use once or twice a year. Take care!
been looking for something like this for a while. thank you!
Your very welcome. Thanks for watching!
i love this video. I wish there was some actual dimensions to read so I can make this myself. Thanks for any input
Hi sjfjonas,
Thanks for watching my video. I do have a link in the comments to my sketch up file for the router table build. You can find all the dimensions you need there.
Thanks for watching!
Pete
I subscribed just cause I liked your style and really enjoyed the build!!
Thank you for the kind words! I’m glad you enjoy my videos.
That is a big table in front of the router, seems you may always be pushing from the side and rarely from the front. Think about inserting flush to table two aligned rulers on the surface to help align the fence.
Hi Robert,
I have been thinking of doing that. My original idea was to sink done t-slots with marks in the table but the clamp idea ended up winning.
Thanks for watching!
Pete
Nice Job, Best yet, Thinking about do this on my small workbench top...Thanks again..
Your welcome Bill, glad you liked it.
Nice router table!!
I’m gonna make a similar build but will use aluminum as my fence. Just a preference of mine
Thanks! Good luck with the build, add a t-track too. I’m thinking of adding one for jigs.
Thanks. Wife just bought my first router......
That router table will pass down to your son/s. Solid. Liked.
Lovely Work. Very Enjoyable and a sturdy correctly built table. Thank you I will probably follow this for my own build - I have the same Ryobi - in fact it is shocking how much Ozito and Ryobi power tools that I still have and works very well indeed after 4 or 5 years. I thought they would break once the box was opened. Nice DeWalt too!
Thanks Pete, this is great! How have you liked it after using it over time?
Hi Marty, I’m so glad I upgraded. The stability and larger platform to support work has made all the difference. Thanks for watching!
I believe the term you were looking for is 'Masonite' for the material on the top. Not cardboard, not 'backerboard'. Good video. Thanks!
Thanks for the correction, the stuff I used has been holding up well. If I get a ding in it ill swap it out for masonite,
Hey, This looks really great. I'm trying different versions of a table saw platform for my DW618 now. Here's the dumb problem I'm having. How are you attaching the router to the board? Are you just using the same holes as the clear plastic plate and getting longer screws so it fits through the wood, but not too long so it pops above the board? The step where you attached the router base to the board is edited out. Maybe distracted by your son's daily story? ;)
I see other videos where the router seems to have screw holes that go all the way through the base to connect to a nut But your base and mine only have hole for the plastic plate and don't go all the way through.
Hi Carl, you are absolutely right. I used the same holes as the factory baseplate and installed longer screws that were countersunk into the top surface.
Thanks for watching!
How big do the holes on the fence need to be, how does it line up with the router bit?
Also, how is the router attached to the table?
Do I need to buy a router table insert plate? I have an identical DeWalt DW618 router.
Hi Steven,
The hole I chose was, I think, 2 inches. And I mirrored that to the fence. I was going for what I thought was a better dust collection.
The router is screwed to the underside of the table. The factory base plate is clear plastic, I removed it and screwed to the underside.
Hope that helps!
Pete
Those clamps you used first are not very good. I have found out to my cost. I clamped a straight edge in place using them. Then run my router along the straight edge only to have the straight move taking my router and cutting route with it. After which I vowed only to use positive screw clamps.
Thanks for the comment and insight on the clamps. I ran into a bit of movement also when running long or heavy pieces. I added some 220 adhesive back sandpaper to the bottom of the fence and ensure the clamps were tight every time I use or move them. That seems to help with my bit of wiggle I had. If I do run into more movement I’ll definitely add screw clamps to the fence, maybe route a channel and have them mounted to the table. Thanks for the idea!
Pete
Genius! Love those joints and craftsmanship. Thank you for sharing. I was looking a £250 router table, I think you might have just saved me some quid. Happy new year
Your welcome! Can't go wrong with simple half laps. Making your own shop gear to suit your needs is the best idea. It can be exactly what you need it to be. Thanks for watching!
I realize this is an old video. I have already built the base for this table. I am going to do the top today. However I am notsure how to attach the top to the table. Can anyone off me some advise?
Hello,
I actually didn’t attach the top to the base. My idea was it would be easier to lift it up to remove the router from the base. I attached some trim around the underside of the top to get a snug fit when it’s set in place so it doesn’t slide around.
If you want to secure the top to the base I would screw from the underside with pocket holes to hide the screw hole. Drilling into the underside of the table.
I hope that works for you. Good luck finishing the project, I’m sure it will turn out great!
Pete
That could also be easily modified to be a bench top drill press stand. :)
I'm sure I'm missing something basic, but i cant get the bit to clear the hole so i can use it. The plunge base stops it from going further. Thoughts?
Hi Larry,
Are you able to adjust the depth of the router motor? I have the fixed base router that can move up and down with a ring manually. It can adjust the collet so it’s almost flush with the underside of the bed. I also use a longer 1/2 inch bit to clear the router bed and poke out of the bed.
Hope that helps,
Pete
@@PetesGarageWorkshop Hi Pete, Well, when all else fails, try following instructions... don't know why, but I kept trying to make it work with the plunge base. Once i switched to fixed base - perfect. Thanks for the follow up.
Great Larry! Glad it worked out.
Great video & yeah, you we’re doing great until you nailed that power switch in place!
Yeah, I figured that out real quick but thankfully easy to fix. Glad you liked the video.
Thanks for watching!
Did you ever consider dropping the Ryobi metal router table top into a larger work surface attached to the base you built? You might have used the same adjustable fence. Just a thought...
I did give it a thought but the Ryobi router I had in the table was not able to accept some of my larger bits.
The fence was ok but having a taller, longer, and more stable, easier to adjust fence was worth the build to me.
Plus I wanted to gift the Ryobi table to a buddy who didn’t have a router table. It ended up working out for both of us!
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this video! I will be starting a table build of my own soon and am seriously considering this router exactly as you have used it. I want to use a router with its own height adjustment so I don't need a lift. How do you find the bit height adjustment with this router? Is it reasonable easy to get the precise height you want and lock it in? Have you ever had any bit height drop while you are using? Thanks!
Your welcome! It was fun making this video. The router I used has a simple twist collar that snaps tightly. The bit height is ok, no real way to set it and forget. I typically use ornamental bits for making edges look nice so I don’t really measure the bit height, I normally use a scrap block and try until I like the look. This isn’t exactly 1/64th inch precision but it’s ok for what I have been making.
After I set the locking collar I have never had I bit slip down and ruin an edge.
For dados I do get a bit more precise. I use a couple of known height blocks like two 1/4 strips of plywood stacked together with the top one overhanging so I get a good 1/4 inch height. Same for 1/2 and combine them for 3/4 inch. Use them as a known height and run the bit up until it just touches the underside of the stip and lock it down.
There are many alternatives out there like kreg setup blocks but my simple stacked blocks works good for me.
I hope that help!
Hi mate. I'm not expert but isn't it dangerous using that table saw with no riving knife? My mate got a cracked jaw doing that a bit of wood flew back and hit him in the face
Yes it is, I have since installed the riving knife on my saw. I only take it off now when I put my dado stack on.
Thanks to all for the reminders!
what model number are the screws you used to mount the base, is it a metric ?
thanks
Hi Juan,
Sorry I don’t remember what type of screws they were other than they were 1.5 inches long. I found a couple that fit in my parts drawer and cut them to size.
You could take yours to a hardware store and see if they have what you need.
Good luck and thank for watching!
The clamps in your link dont look like the ones used?
I just updated the link with the same vertical style clamp. I had that link in my notes to update but never did.
I like this style because it forms a kind of handle when it’s in the clamping position.
Thanks for watching!....very closely!
Pete
What are those " Harbor Freight clamps" called? You should add a link for them
Hi Dan,
Great idea! Thanks for reminding me. I just put a link to the ones I used.
Thanks for watching!
Did i miss where you attached the router?
Hi Tim,
No, I didn’t film that part. I skipped ahead and mounted the router holder to the underside. I was thinking about the cool shot of the bit cutting up through the top surface.
The router plate just needed a couple longer screws and mounted together just like the clear plexiglass base I removed.
Thanks for watching!
Pete
Its like building.a 3D printer , you spent more time printing upgrades than doing work :) Will build this and then build my dream PC Tv audio wall unit.
What kinda dusk mask are you using in your router table build
Awesome video definitely going to make one
Hi Joshua, it’s a RZ M2 Mesh mask. It’s been working great for me.
Thanks for watching!
good build , quick and easy and not too flowery like a lot of these makers, also good to see you start like the rest of us with a cheap 100 dollar one until you can get the skill to make your own!! is there a number please on the toggle clamps please or an approximate length, these are something we don't see in europe, i can get them from ali express, no harbour freight in Spain, also i wondered whether it would be worth putting a smooth veneer on the fence like the router table so it slides nicely along the edge.
Hows it going also 2 years on? my CNC just arrived from Open Builds so finally i have to make some table machines for prepping and finishing, have all the hand tools but never needed them in a table environment until my little cnc came a year ago, spent the year learning how to design and program it and saving and spent as much as i could on a large 1 square metre lead screw open builds machine that i cant afford the table saw or router table now so I'll have to build them now on the 3018 i had didnt really need the table machines but now definitely...thanks for posting ....very rare you see the original machine you upgraded from....Thanks
Thank you for the comments. The toggle clamps were just basic ones, I think they were 4-5inch reach clamps. I bet Ali express and harbor freight get them from the same place.
If you routing talk stock a larger veneered fence would come in handy!
I use this router almost once a week, it has been holding up great. The mobile base was really the way to go due to the weight. Thanks!
@@PetesGarageWorkshop thanks for the info, at least now i know the type and yes AE do sell them. cheers, Neil
How in the world did you get your router bit to go that high from under all that table top?
Most routers must drop in from the top, you made yours reach from the bottom. You must have left out a step like thinning out from under so your router base reaches higher or something. Any input in welcome!
Hi PlainOIBill,
I was lucky that I didn’t have to thin out the top. The fixed base I used had enough movement to allow the router arbor to extend well above the bottom of the table.
I am able to extend the height of the bits by using 1/2 inch arbor size bits. Usually they are taller than the 1/4 inch bits.
I measured the max height I can extend my tallest and shortest bit. The tallest was a 1/2 inch straight cut bit that has a 2 inch cut surface. I can still hold over half the bit securely and still get 1 and 3/4 inch of cutting surface. Not that I have used it, but good to know I can if I need it.
The 1/4 inch arbor bits are another story. Since I use them more for edge profiles I don’t have to extend them too far. Think of a 1/2 chamfer bit or a 3/8 ogee bit. I can only extend them just beyond the bottom of my smallest bit. It’s a 1/4 round over bit. In this case I usually switch over to my trim router.
I hope that helps, it’s all in the fixed router base that came with the kit.
@@PetesGarageWorkshop thank you for that thorough answer. I completely follow you. I didn't think it possible to do that. Have a great day my friend.
Yep. I finished this build last week only to find that my Bosch router would not clear the surface adequately. I switched to 1/2 inch and it solved the problem.
What nail gun did you use to attach the edging? Thanks.
Hi John,
I used an older model craftsman brad nailer with 18 gauge nails from harbor freight. I think they were 1.5 inch long.
I found the brad nailer at a swap meet for 25 bucks, just had to put some oil in it and replace the leaking hose attachment and I was good to go. It’s been great ever since.
Thanks for watching!
Pete
Thanks great video, what size hole did you make for the bits ?
Your welcome, I think I used a 1.5 inch forstner bit to cut that hole. Gave me plenty of room around the bits I have. If I upgrade to larger bits I’ll make some inserts for it.
Thanks for getting back
Nice build
Thank you! I don’t know why I didn’t build this when I first started woodworking.
Thank youuuu💯
Your welcome!
you didn't say how you knew where to place the router template looks like 4 inches from side and did not say what size hole to drill for the router or the fence. If you could help me out I would really appreciate it a lot. I love this build.
Hi Charles, your right I didn’t really go over that. I just kinda eyeballed the template because you may or may not be using the same one I am. I planned on using this router table to round over picture frames. I tried to place the router template and hole as far as I could to the side and not obstruct the structure underneath.
I have seen people place routers in the center of a table and it worked out fine for them. I just wanted to use it from the front where the power switch was on, not reaching all around the table.
The router hole is 5.5 inches from the side of the table and the hole for the bits is 1.75 inches wide. I’m not planning on using large bits so this was as wide as I plan on going. Depending on your needs you might need to go smaller or larger. Thanks for watching!
Thanks I will be building it tomorrow
What is the "slick" white board you used for the top of the router table?
That board is a 3/4 inch melamine plywood. It has a nice slick side and a regular plywood side. It works great for me. It’s like countertop kitchen table type stuff. I cut mine from an old entertainment center.
It would have been so much easier making this on a router table than a table saw. ;)
Have you ever written the instructions down? I bet Family Handyman or any other woodworking magazine would buy them (as would I).
I do have Sketchup models of some of my projects. I should post this one in the comments. Thank you for reminding me!
Nice video. What screws are you using to attach the router to the table? the ones from the clear plastic are too short. Thanks
Hello Alfonso, I had some counter sunk screws that just so happened to fit the threads on the router housing. I should have gone to the store with the original and bought the proper screw. These have been holding up great though.
Thanks!
What is the program you use on the computer?
Hi Mark,
It’s called Sketch Up. It’s a free program, easy to use, and quick to learn.
Thanks for watching!
Nice job! Unsafe table saw practices though. Riving knife and standing position...
Good stuff!
You don’t show how you made the hole at the center a wider diameter.
Hey! Just wondering what program your using in the beginning of the video?
Hey Oggie,
I think you referring to SketchUp. Its a design software I use for all my projects. It’s free and works great for woodworking projects.
I use it in a lot of my videos.
Thanks for watching!
Pete
what software are you using for the plan 1.23 on the video
I use Sketchup to design with. It’s free check it out!
Thanks for watching!
where did you get the dust mask
Hi Joseph, I bought it from Amazon. It’s a RZ M2 Mesh mask.
What software did you use for the CAD design?
Hi Bogdan,
I use Sketch-up for most of my projects. I’m looking into switching over to Fusion 360 but Sketch-up is so easy to jump into. Plus Sketch-up is free!
Thanks for watching!
Can you tell me the dust mask your wearing and where it can be located?
Sure, its the black RZ mesh mask from rzmask.com with the standard filter. I like it so far, way better than the paper masks, easy to clean and replace the filters. Enjoy!
Hello pete, where did you get those electrical parts from where can I buy them?
Hello Gerald, I bought the on off paddle switch from amazon and I had the small power strip from a broken router table I had fixed.
VIDEO BEN REALIZZATO.
COMPLIMENTI.
SALUTI
SALVIO
How did you screw the router into the table?
I used the router holder housing that came with the kit. I had some small screws that secured it to the underside of the table. The holder had screws that held the plastic base in place, I just removed it and used it as a template to drill screw holes.
....."Harbor Freight router bits, I'm a real woodworker now"..... ROTFLMBO! You and me both, brother! You made me shoot coffee out my nose!
I see this was 2 years ago, have you added any T track or changed anything to this setup. By the way great video I plan on making this
Thanks! I did plan on installing T track but I just never got around to needing it. The fence I built has been enough with the addition of the clamps under the bed.
The only addition I really needed was an easier way to move the table around. The wheel upgrade video I made was the only update I have made so far.
I really recommend building a large routing table like this. I have made a couple big picture frames with routed edges that came out great due to this addition to my shop.
Let us know how your build goes!
Guess I missed the part where you mounted the router to the table. Kind of a key step. :-(
He said he hadn't figured out how to mount the router and then didn't show how it was done. That's all I was looking to see. The rest was just building a table
I’m also interested in knowing how to mount this router to the table. Pete, it looks like you figured it out. Can you please explain how this was done, or add a video? Does anyone else have an answer? Thanks.
Hello there,
Sorry about not addressing how I mounted the router in the video.
I used the clear plastic base plate off the fixed router base as a template for screw holes. From the work side of the router top I countersunk longer screws into the fixed base and used that to secure the router. I lose a bit of depth with my bits because my table is thick but it secures the router great.
I hope this helps!
Link to Sketchup FIle is broken
Thanks for letting me know.I fixed it!
Someone needs ah bandsaw!! Good build though!
Not very use full or new, what if you need to slightly widen a groove.
Hi Alan,
That can be tricky, but I would still use the router table and recut the groove with an appropriate bit the width you need. Just line up center of the dado and center of the new wider bit and lock the fence down and recut.
Thanks for watching,
Pete
Hell yes
How do you change the bit?
Hey Jimmy, I attached the router holder body to the bottom. There is a pressure latch to release and two little retaining clips you press and the router motor slides out. The whole operation take 10 seconds to do. I hope you enjoyed the video! Thanks for watching.
heavy work
hit the like because garage floor not level
First thing I made after patting myself on the back was leveling shims on the table saw!
Thanks for watching!
At what point did you realize that you mounted the safety switch on the wrong side of the table and have to move it ?
Nice eagle eye! I noticed and just rotated the table top. I left that part of the video out.
@@PetesGarageWorkshop .........I seen that and had to laugh.....Looks like something I would have done.... lol........................
It happens often when I record.. to many things to keep track of! Thanks for keeping me honest!!
Nice job, apart from your horrific saw skills. I see that you don't have a splitter behind your blade, therefore, if you're using a push stick; always push towards the fence and NEVER towards the blade. It's the best guarantee you'll have a kickback one day... read about it, please. As well, you're bending far over the turning blade... doing so, is waiting for an accident. Moreoverl, I saw how you're using your cross cut saw. Make sure that 1 end is always free instead of 'locking up' your piece of wood. The back of your blade will launch the wood around one day, if you look at it in your movie, the piece of wood is already lifting up in the end. I hope you'll consider my comments, or search here on RUclips for 'table saw kickback'. Remember, a table saw is a fantastic tool... but a very deadly device in the wrong hands. Good luck!
Uuuu
Nice, but why build when you can buy. Let others do the work for you.
If thats what you prefer go for it. For me it depends on what I hope to get out of a project. If the final goal is just to have a thing that’s ok. Or is it to have the satisfaction of knowing you can build the thing?
Such a lazy comment your on the wrong section of RUclips go and search for videos on how to buy stuff
That guy: also watches cooking channels and comments “why not just go to a restaurant? Let others cook for you.”
I was looking for a way to fix the fence without making tracks or holes. tohe togle cl
The toggle idea was something I saw in a woodworking magazine years ago. Glad I remembered it!
Thanks for watching,
Pete