[SOLVED] Sienna Bank 1 Sensor 1 Air-Fuel Oxygen (O2) Sensor replacement
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- This is the simplest approach to getting to that top O2 sensor on the back cylinder bank in Toyota Sienna with 3.5L transversely mounted V-6. This video shows how to access the Heated Oxygen Sensor (A/F) against the firewall. Bank 1 Sensor 1 Air-Fuel O2 Sensor Replacement. [SOLVED]
Worked perfectly. Used the flex head ratchet and sensor socket and a short length of pipe for torque. First try, no go. Applied WD-40 Rust Release, waited 10 minutes and took almost no effort. Thank you. Clear description of everything.
Glad that helped you!
You just might have provided the solution I needed. I have a 22 year old, 2001 Highlander 3.0 V6, 86,000, miles with a Bank 1, sensor 1 heater error, and with the same dash error lights as yours. . Until this video, I could not find anything that showed how to access this sensor. Everyone shows the easy sensors. I’ll take a look at mine ,but I do suspect it will be the same access method. I’ll order that socket and a sensor! 😊 thank you!
I hope that works for you! Let me know if the Highlander is accessible that way.
What an aweful place to get into! This is the one that is bad on my car - same as you, it says the heater in the sensor is bad. Thanks for the great video on this. it's bad, but I'll try it.
thank you so much for the video! It made the most sense and I'll have my grand daughter do this for me.
Big help, haven't done it yet, but makes me so much better prepared. Outstanding.
It's really fairly easy once you get the bar extension along the back of the block toward the passenger wheel well
I would just add that because of the fact that we work around grease areas we temp to rubber it on areas that will heat up pretty fast like the exhaust pipes therefore it smog for the first time you start the engine but it’s normal from that grease been burned up.
Did this yesterday In my tarago with 2grfe. B1s1 is a bitch in australia as steering shalf gets in the way of this method. But still works but just harder. And you can also disconnect the plug on the top enging bay with batt removed as well, but it will be tight
Thanks for the input! The right hand drive set-up would be a little different.
Did you have to take the passenger tire off to get room with the car on jack stands.
I did all work with the tires in place while it was on the jack stands. Even the long lever had room under the wheel:)
@@ScottyWrenchesI practiced removing the connection from the easy 02 sensor in the front of vehicle and it was somewhat difficult to press the button and have it wiggle out. Hope I don't break something below. Wish me luck.
@@tsukki_amv2848 Try squeezing the clip to "unlock" it while pushing it further into the connection, then pullback. They are tight to prevent water from getting in, so sometimes pushing in releases the clip more easily. Best of luck!
@@ScottyWrenchesprecisely “what” clip? There are four sides to the coupler. I can’t get the sob to decouple
@@chilitoday Should just be able to pinch the clip. One side of the "coupler" has the clip that you pinch. The extension bar goes toward the passenger side wheel well.
Are both bank 1 and bank a/f sensors the same?
Bank 1 and Bank 2 AF sensors are different. Front (Bank 2) is 18-inch wire length, while the rear (Bank 1) is 7-inch in length.
Gotcha thanks
Today i went to auto zone to buy the part bank 1 sensor 1 changed it but light still on it i reset n came back again..
@edwinomarhuizardamian16
What is the code that is read? You need to know why the sensor is misreading. If it's the P0171, check out my other video on trouble shooting that. View that video here:
ruclips.net/video/wfpvWIJ0s_s/видео.html
What year is this sienna?
2008 in video, but based on looking at Toyota engine schematics, this process should be the same from Model years 2004-2020
Do you have a part number by any chance?
Toyota PN 89467-08070 for Bank1 Sensor 1 A/F Ratio sensor
@@ScottyWrenches I’ve been prying on the tab of the sensor and it won’t seem to come off…is there anything else that I need to do aside from prying the tab with a screw driver?
@@yycgiglife4714 Push in toward the sensor with the wire plug, then squeeze the release, then pull back off the sensor. The connectors are made to fit tightly so vibration doesn't cause a disconnection problem, as well as to keep dirt and water out of the connections.
@@ScottyWrenchesso this is the b1s1 sensor which everyone calls an O2 sensor but I think it’s more precisely an a/f sensor..air/fuel ratio sensor ??
@@chilitodayCorrect, the first sensor nearest the head is always the A/F sensor.
I had much less room to maneuver than this shows. The angle of the sensor was tilted more upward leaving less space than this video claims. I had to use a short handled ratchet.
Did you use the flex head ratchet? If not, then you WILL NOT be able to angle downward away from the firewall. You would be stuck using the shorter handle ratchet in that case. The FLEX-HEAD ratchet is shown at 1:52 in the video and is one of the "tips" to getting this done easily.
Maybe include your wife in the video. 😜
I would just add that because of the fact that we work around grease areas we temp to rubber it on areas that will heat up pretty fast like the exhaust pipes therefore it smog for the first time you start the engine but it’s normal from that grease been burned up.