There are a lot of useful (and very important) tips in this video. The air box removal procedure you demonstrated is very useful and necessary. Suspension lowering tips are great. The next video on taking apart the shock will be a "must watch". Thanks Dino
Thanks Dino. I'm not Mechanically inclined - I just picked up my DR last fall, I love it. These simple and informative videos must take a while but they've really helped me with my bike! Keep it up!
Very happy these help. Just start small and build your knowledge base, that's what I'm still doing lol. The DR is a great bike to learn the basics, it can be as much fun as riding. Thank you for the comment and happy riding 😊. Dino
Just a "Thank You" for the channel, Dino. This is timed well as I'm about to switch out my DR's rear shock. I appreciate all your videos (and Mark's over at Biker Bit's also). Always good to know the pitfalls before I dive into something that's over my mechanic skill. (just about everything - lol). Cheers!
Thank you for the kind words, I'm glad the content is useful and you are most welcome. Making the videos is fun for sure but knowing they are useful is even better. Good luck with your shock, I know you'll do fine. Dino
Thank You Dino for the wonderful how to video! It's refreshing to see someone who actually reads, and follows the Clymer manual. A detachable subframe makes this job much easier. Unless I was having problems getting the bolt to thread, I personally wouldn't run a tap through the soft aluminum of the shock clevis.
Thank you for the feedback and I am glad you enjoy the content. As I often say, I am an amateur, not a real mechanic so the manual is the first tool I buy when I get a new vehicle. I find the Clymer easier to follow for someone like me then the factory Suzuki manual although the factory manual is defiantly more technical in a lot of ways. I have a bit of a habit of chasing threads, I suppose there is a risk of damage to the treads being there are aluminum but I take my time and only chase these by hand. I really the threads clean when I reassemble stuff. I wonder if a nylon or soft brass brush would be better for cleaning out dirt with out the risk of damage? what would your thoughts be? Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed My thoughts/experience on chasing threads with a tap as general practice is that it almost always cuts at least a little bit no matter how careful I am, which reduces material holding the screw/bolt, there is a risk of damaging the threads, especially if not sure of the pitch, and the possibility crossthreading, also if the nut has a self locking feature, tapping will defeat that. Of course, sometimes it is necessary if the bolt/screw won't start, or thread properly. The brush cleaning method would certainly be safer, and if I'm worried about getting it loose in the future, a little dab of grease on the threads will usually help keep it from seizing. Of course this is just my opinion, whatever works for you is great! I have both manuals, Clymer is the superior manual (again my opinion), perfect example is the instructions for removing the cam chain tensioner, Clymer is much more descriptive, with many pictures and even shows how to make the tool for it.
Great feedback, thank you, I appreciate your opinion and explanation. Glad I am not the only one who finds the Clymer manual very good. I know some have told me they are never as good as the factory manual but as you point out the step by step order of operations is very well laid out in the Clymer. I believe the factory manual expects the technician to be a fully trained Suzuki tech which makes sense. Thank you again. Dino
You and I both on procrastinating the suspension. I always get inspiration after seeing your releases. I’ve got my oem replacement rear shock here and new fork springs on their way.
Hey having the parts is half the battle. Both of these jobs are challenging enough to really make them rewarding when you're done but not too difficult that the home mechanic can't tackle it. Your going to do great. Dino
Great work Dino. Not wanting to disrespect Mark but you have all the attributes I like to see in mechanic. Mark...... well..... um.....he gives it a go which is an admirable quality and sometimes he even thinks too! But mostly he shows the pitfalls of rushing or not using the right tool for the job.
LOL, I appreciate the complement, thank you. I try my best to do the research before I tackle a project and much of that information comes from other riders or forums that I lurk around lol. I am an amateur just like most, and I make my fair share of mishaps and blunders too😦, the goal with my content is to make it as much of a walk through as I can to help others who want to tackle the project themselves but want to see what they are getting into while highlighting challenging areas when they poop up. I am so humbled by the reception to my videos, and I hope to continue to produce entertaining and educational video for people to enjoy. volvogt21, thank you for the support and the kind words. Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed cheers Dino. In my opinion your videos are the go to for any DR job. So logical and easy to follow. I have fumbled my way through the shocker removal a few times and need to do it again. I'll be watching you as I do it next time. And thanks for including metric torque figures. Super helpful!
How timely! Thanks Dino. I have just taken delivery of new Cogent front springs and drop in damper cartridges, and plan to soon order the new Cogent Mojave rear shock. I got that Clymer manual for Christmas - hilarious start to your video! Love your channel.
Dino, I always take the air box out it’s quick and easy to remove the shock after the first time you do it. Just a couple of little tricks with the air box reinstall makes it easy that you learn pretty quickly such as pull out the air box snorkel!
Thank you for the feedback. You are correct about the snorkel, its funny my manual did not mention its removal to assist in the airbox removal and reinstall. Once out access to the shock and swing arm is great and makes cleaning a breeze. Dino
Another excellent video! I'm considering swapping out the stock suspension for an aftermarket setup and wanted to see how involved it was. You are my go to for dr650 information!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us!
The re-valve video will be a must watch. Be very interested if you upgrade to a stiffer spring too, and finally your impressions riding once winter is over. I am contemplating re-valving and would trust your opinion.
Thank you for the comment, my bike came with a heavier spring when I bought it but I am still trying to determine what the lb per inch is on it. I know it is longer than stock as well, but I am not sure how much. The valving was interesting and in talking with Oliver at Performance Shock and Custom about my riding style and where I mostly ride I decided to stay with the stock valving during this service. I will explain why when I reinstall and set the ride height in the last video of the series. Thank you again. Dino
Thanks for the great video, we're working on Emma's DR650 at the moment and learning a lot from your video's. The audio is great on this one, great use of the lav mic! Please keep the videos coming, but make sure to keep yourself warm!
Thank you, the audio is my biggest struggle for sure, I keep working on it and hopefully I can get it consistent. Have fun working on Emma's DR and thank you for the comment. Dino
You're too kind, Dino; Mark's an idiot! Shows you how NOT to do things. You, on the other hand, are a LEGEND! Well done, Dino. PS: Was that D major note you hit with your 'tuning' fork? 😜
Thank you for the complement, but I have many flaws LOL, I like Mark, he is passionate, entertaining to watch and is not afraid to show his struggles when he has them. I think you may be right about the D major, i will have to confirm this though Bahaaaaaa 😅. Thank you again for the comment and support, it is appreciated. Dino
Whilst the manual does not specify shock or forks service intervals, it always a good idea to change the oil and inspect seals and bushes every 20, 000km. fork and shock oil does degrade similar to engine oil.
Nice one Dino. Loks like good access once airbox out. I usually just remove exhaust and remove from bottom. Looks a bit easier your way though. Look forward to seeing what you do with it 👍
Thanks Dan. I think I will be able to adjust sag with the air box out as well. As I am sure you are aware it is a bit fussy getting to the spanner rings when the airbox is in.
Glad you likes it, and thank you for the comment. Mt Dr is a 2009. My local dealer has a 2022 in white, sitting on the floor, I laugh every time I see it because it looks exactly like mine stock. Thank you for taking the time to comment Dino
I think Mark from Biker Bits has an aftermarket exhaust header, maybe that's why he had a bit of a time. I think taking out the airbox does give you more access to the suspension bolts. Thank you for the feedback. Dino
Dino, Just a FYI...Ive bought a used DR400 back chock as i believe its way better that the 650s etc. . i got to mill out the bottom by 1 mm to make it fit.. As I'm 270lb and going down lol..I need better back chock 4 sure. i did the front and it made a big diff. On another note do you take emails and or tel calls.
I have heard this is a good option as an upgrade, I should keep an eye out for one used as well. could be a fun project. My email is in the "about" section of my RUclips home page, I take correspondence but am a bit hesitant about attachments such as pictures ect in fear of viruses. Dino
Thank you for the question, I am not an expert at all with these shocks however according to my friend who just serviced mine, it is fine to run the shock in any of the detents, the shock is designed to operate throughout the full range and he encourages people to try different settings. Just be careful not to "bottom out" the adjuster too hard when you are turning it all the way in, as this can damage the end of the adjuster spool if you are to forceful. I hope this helps. Dino
Wait ✋️ if you didn't do your forks first, a set of Cogent non progressive springs for your weight, Cogent DDC emulators and proper fork oil volume, you should try it first before spending a few hundred on valving. You'd be surprised how the forks affect and compliment the rear suspension. I just did mine about 2 weeks ago, forks and a stiffer rear spring. However, if you want to make content, I support your decision but do the forks as well.
Thank you for the comment. I actually am just servicing my shock not revalveing it, I really don't mind the factory ride but it needs the oil changed. I have a heavier spring installed on it already and I just serviced the forks about a year ago. Good information on the spring upgrade for sure and I appreciate you sharing your experience. Many of the videos I make are for content generation for sure, but they are all things I would get around to anyway lol. Thank you again. Dino
@DinosTinkerShed Well, I for sure enjoy your methodical process and reasoning in your videos and encourage you to keep making them.the information you share is helpful. Thank you.
you should have mentioned that the spring needs to be pulled apart and flip the spring collar to lower the suspension height . its ok we can just blame global warming and the increasingly short Canadian winter for that.
Looking forward to seeing the shock taken apart in this series!
Just editing the video now, should be out in a few weeks. Thank you for the comment
Dino
There are a lot of useful (and very important) tips in this video. The air box removal procedure you demonstrated is very useful and necessary. Suspension lowering tips are great. The next video on taking apart the shock will be a "must watch". Thanks Dino
Thank you Mal, it is nice to get the air box out just to clean in behind it!
As always, thank you for your comment.
Dino
Great episode, Dino. Loved the opening! Great visual effects! 🤘🏻
Looking forward to the follow up episodes...
Thank you Eric, cant wait for spring to see more of your camping and overland adventures in the Bad Mule!.
Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed engine air filter maintenance episode this weekend 👍🏻
Gotta try and get a steady stream of uploads
Thanks Dino. I'm not Mechanically inclined - I just picked up my DR last fall, I love it. These simple and informative videos must take a while but they've really helped me with my bike! Keep it up!
Very happy these help. Just start small and build your knowledge base, that's what I'm still doing lol. The DR is a great bike to learn the basics, it can be as much fun as riding.
Thank you for the comment and happy riding 😊.
Dino
Just a "Thank You" for the channel, Dino. This is timed well as I'm about to switch out my DR's rear shock. I appreciate all your videos (and Mark's over at Biker Bit's also). Always good to know the pitfalls before I dive into something that's over my mechanic skill. (just about everything - lol). Cheers!
Thank you for the kind words, I'm glad the content is useful and you are most welcome. Making the videos is fun for sure but knowing they are useful is even better.
Good luck with your shock, I know you'll do fine.
Dino
Thank You Dino for the wonderful how to video! It's refreshing to see someone who actually reads, and follows the Clymer manual. A detachable subframe makes this job much easier. Unless I was having problems getting the bolt to thread, I personally wouldn't run a tap through the soft aluminum of the shock clevis.
Thank you for the feedback and I am glad you enjoy the content. As I often say, I am an amateur, not a real mechanic so the manual is the first tool I buy when I get a new vehicle. I find the Clymer easier to follow for someone like me then the factory Suzuki manual although the factory manual is defiantly more technical in a lot of ways.
I have a bit of a habit of chasing threads, I suppose there is a risk of damage to the treads being there are aluminum but I take my time and only chase these by hand. I really the threads clean when I reassemble stuff. I wonder if a nylon or soft brass brush would be better for cleaning out dirt with out the risk of damage? what would your thoughts be?
Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed My thoughts/experience on chasing threads with a tap as general practice is that it almost always cuts at least a little bit no matter how careful I am, which reduces material holding the screw/bolt, there is a risk of damaging the threads, especially if not sure of the pitch, and the possibility crossthreading, also if the nut has a self locking feature, tapping will defeat that. Of course, sometimes it is necessary if the bolt/screw won't start, or thread properly. The brush cleaning method would certainly be safer, and if I'm worried about getting it loose in the future, a little dab of grease on the threads will usually help keep it from seizing. Of course this is just my opinion, whatever works for you is great!
I have both manuals, Clymer is the superior manual (again my opinion), perfect example is the instructions for removing the cam chain tensioner, Clymer is much more descriptive, with many pictures and even shows how to make the tool for it.
Great feedback, thank you, I appreciate your opinion and explanation. Glad I am not the only one who finds the Clymer manual very good. I know some have told me they are never as good as the factory manual but as you point out the step by step order of operations is very well laid out in the Clymer. I believe the factory manual expects the technician to be a fully trained Suzuki tech which makes sense.
Thank you again.
Dino
You and I both on procrastinating the suspension. I always get inspiration after seeing your releases. I’ve got my oem replacement rear shock here and new fork springs on their way.
Hey having the parts is half the battle. Both of these jobs are challenging enough to really make them rewarding when you're done but not too difficult that the home mechanic can't tackle it. Your going to do great.
Dino
Great work Dino. Not wanting to disrespect Mark but you have all the attributes I like to see in mechanic. Mark...... well..... um.....he gives it a go which is an admirable quality and sometimes he even thinks too! But mostly he shows the pitfalls of rushing or not using the right tool for the job.
LOL, I appreciate the complement, thank you. I try my best to do the research before I tackle a project and much of that information comes from other riders or forums that I lurk around lol. I am an amateur just like most, and I make my fair share of mishaps and blunders too😦, the goal with my content is to make it as much of a walk through as I can to help others who want to tackle the project themselves but want to see what they are getting into while highlighting challenging areas when they poop up.
I am so humbled by the reception to my videos, and I hope to continue to produce entertaining and educational video for people to enjoy.
volvogt21, thank you for the support and the kind words.
Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed cheers Dino. In my opinion your videos are the go to for any DR job. So logical and easy to follow. I have fumbled my way through the shocker removal a few times and need to do it again. I'll be watching you as I do it next time. And thanks for including metric torque figures. Super helpful!
Thank you Dino , another excellent how to video!
So glad you enjoyed it. Thank you for the comment.
Dino
Dino’s videos are very easy and informative to watch
@@gregstuchley6657 thank you for the comment
Dino
Dino, great video. Looking forward to the next video.
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it.
Dino
How timely! Thanks Dino. I have just taken delivery of new Cogent front springs and drop in damper cartridges, and plan to soon order the new Cogent Mojave rear shock. I got that Clymer manual for Christmas - hilarious start to your video! Love your channel.
Wow, you have some good fun ahead! that Cogent rear shock looks nice for sure. Glad you like the channel. 😀
Dino
Dino, I always take the air box out it’s quick and easy to remove the shock after the first time you do it. Just a couple of little tricks with the air box reinstall makes it easy that you learn pretty quickly such as pull out the air box snorkel!
Thank you for the feedback. You are correct about the snorkel, its funny my manual did not mention its removal to assist in the airbox removal and reinstall. Once out access to the shock and swing arm is great and makes cleaning a breeze.
Dino
Super appreciate the fine details and explanation you put in to the video. Thanks!
Thank you for the comment, I am glad you like them, they are fun to make but its nice to know htey are useful as well.
Dino
Haha, great intro Dino! Soon riding season here in PA, which means also Dinos Tinker Shed season for me 😊
Lol, I am flattered. 👍I can't wait to ride, it's been a long winter for me.
Thank you for the comment
Dino
Another excellent video! I'm considering swapping out the stock suspension for an aftermarket setup and wanted to see how involved it was. You are my go to for dr650 information!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us!
Some how i stumbled across your channel and glad I did. Really enjoying it. Thank you
Thank you, I'm glad you like it.
Dino
The re-valve video will be a must watch. Be very interested if you upgrade to a stiffer spring too, and finally your impressions riding once winter is over. I am contemplating re-valving and would trust your opinion.
Thank you for the comment, my bike came with a heavier spring when I bought it but I am still trying to determine what the lb per inch is on it. I know it is longer than stock as well, but I am not sure how much. The valving was interesting and in talking with Oliver at Performance Shock and Custom about my riding style and where I mostly ride I decided to stay with the stock valving during this service. I will explain why when I reinstall and set the ride height in the last video of the series. Thank you again.
Dino
Thanks for the great video, we're working on Emma's DR650 at the moment and learning a lot from your video's. The audio is great on this one, great use of the lav mic! Please keep the videos coming, but make sure to keep yourself warm!
Thank you, the audio is my biggest struggle for sure, I keep working on it and hopefully I can get it consistent. Have fun working on Emma's DR and thank you for the comment.
Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed Well you sure notice the effort you put in!
love your videos! I have my new shock on order and will be doing this soon :)
You're too kind, Dino; Mark's an idiot! Shows you how NOT to do things. You, on the other hand, are a LEGEND! Well done, Dino.
PS: Was that D major note you hit with your 'tuning' fork? 😜
Thank you for the complement, but I have many flaws LOL, I like Mark, he is passionate, entertaining to watch and is not afraid to show his struggles when he has them. I think you may be right about the D major, i will have to confirm this though Bahaaaaaa 😅.
Thank you again for the comment and support, it is appreciated.
Dino
Whilst the manual does not specify shock or forks service intervals, it always a good idea to change the oil and inspect seals and bushes every 20, 000km. fork and shock oil does degrade similar to engine oil.
Great points, thank you for sharing.
Dino
Nice one Dino. Loks like good access once airbox out. I usually just remove exhaust and remove from bottom. Looks a bit easier your way though. Look forward to seeing what you do with it 👍
Thanks Dan. I think I will be able to adjust sag with the air box out as well. As I am sure you are aware it is a bit fussy getting to the spanner rings when the airbox is in.
@Dino's Tinker Shed Yes, you are right that is an excellent point. I will be doing it this way from now on!
Great vid as usual Dino, can't wait for the next. What year is the DR"" Not that it matters design wise.
Glad you likes it, and thank you for the comment. Mt Dr is a 2009. My local dealer has a 2022 in white, sitting on the floor, I laugh every time I see it because it looks exactly like mine stock.
Thank you for taking the time to comment
Dino
Just had to do this myself.
Thank you for the comment 😀
Dino
I found the shock just slid right out the bottom (with no need to remove the airbox), but I did have the swing arm off at the same time.
I think Mark from Biker Bits has an aftermarket exhaust header, maybe that's why he had a bit of a time. I think taking out the airbox does give you more access to the suspension bolts.
Thank you for the feedback.
Dino
Dino, Just a FYI...Ive bought a used DR400 back chock as i believe its way better that the 650s etc. . i got to mill out the bottom by 1 mm to make it fit.. As I'm 270lb and going down lol..I need better back chock 4 sure. i did the front and it made a big diff. On another note do you take emails and or tel calls.
I have heard this is a good option as an upgrade, I should keep an eye out for one used as well. could be a fun project.
My email is in the "about" section of my RUclips home page, I take correspondence but am a bit hesitant about attachments such as pictures ect in fear of viruses.
Dino
Is it bad to max out the detent to the hardest setting?
Thank you for the question, I am not an expert at all with these shocks however according to my friend who just serviced mine, it is fine to run the shock in any of the detents, the shock is designed to operate throughout the full range and he encourages people to try different settings. Just be careful not to "bottom out" the adjuster too hard when you are turning it all the way in, as this can damage the end of the adjuster spool if you are to forceful.
I hope this helps.
Dino
Wait ✋️ if you didn't do your forks first, a set of Cogent non progressive springs for your weight, Cogent DDC emulators and proper fork oil volume, you should try it first before spending a few hundred on valving. You'd be surprised how the forks affect and compliment the rear suspension. I just did mine about 2 weeks ago, forks and a stiffer rear spring. However, if you want to make content, I support your decision but do the forks as well.
Thank you for the comment. I actually am just servicing my shock not revalveing it, I really don't mind the factory ride but it needs the oil changed. I have a heavier spring installed on it already and I just serviced the forks about a year ago. Good information on the spring upgrade for sure and I appreciate you sharing your experience.
Many of the videos I make are for content generation for sure, but they are all things I would get around to anyway lol. Thank you again.
Dino
@DinosTinkerShed Well, I for sure enjoy your methodical process and reasoning in your videos and encourage you to keep making them.the information you share is helpful. Thank you.
you should have mentioned that the spring needs to be pulled apart and flip the spring collar to lower the suspension height . its ok we can just blame global warming and the increasingly short Canadian winter for that.
LOL, the winters are getting shorter I swear. Thank you for the information I don't always remember all the info.
Dino