Build a GIANT⚡⚡15Ah⚡⚡tool BATTERY!
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- Check out my latest video here "How to make your own 🔥Mood Light🔥:
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Welcome to SolipsFilm! In this video I'll show you how to make your own giant BATTERY for the Parkside series by 3D printing, spot welding (wise maple from AliExpress), grinding and soldering. You'll find the 3D files on Thingiverse down below. The batteries we'll be using for this project are not the 18650 type but it's bigger brother, the 21700 Li-ion cell. (from LG).
I'm extremely proud to present this project to all of you, and I hope to see you make the same battery as I just did. Yes, Parkside just came out with a 8Ah battery but hey, how about one that's almost double that capacity for just a fraction on top of the price? ( minus the hours of work obviously ;)
I hope I earned your subscription with this one because there's definitely more to come from me in the future. I have to do this in-between work so sometimes a video might take little while to arrive, especially one like this that took me around 8 days total to make, but my list of ideas for future video's is extending.
Hope you enjoy the video and I'd love to hear from you in the comments with ideas, tips and also feedback positive or negative, I'd love to hear it :)
#battery
#parkside
#diy
SOCIALS:
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3D FILES @ THINGIVERSE:
www.thingivers...
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Buy the 3D print @ my store!
www.etsy.com/n...
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PARTS LIST:
LG 21700 li-ion batteries:
www.nkon.nl/re...
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Nikkel Strip:
nl.aliexpress....
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Small screws (m2, 10mm needed):
nl.aliexpress....
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Insulation Gaskets:
nl.aliexpress....
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Heatsink Plaster:
www.aliexpress...
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Spot Welder (updated version, the old one breaks easily):
www.aliexpress...
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THANKS TO THESE ARTISTS:
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Here's my next video, worked 10 months on it so I hope you'll like it! 🤞🏻
ruclips.net/video/Vf0uD3wiPuc/видео.html
Good project but not useful if you drill and screw all day,it adds too much weight. Even with normal batteries,let's say an impact drive is more than 1kg...with this pack more than 2kg.
And also if it slightly increases speed to the tool it will deteriorate the bits faster and more damage to the gears.
Maybe I am wrong as I don't know much about electricity
Hi i want to make that battery.can wou send me the files for the 3d printer please
1:50 just a quick tip, measuring cells like this with a metal caliper can lead to some interesting problems. And yes I discovered that myself
Haha, good point! 😆😆 Glad mine is plastic.. 😅
Did your calipers suddenly glow orange?
@@BradKwfc
It would seem that plastic doesn't glow... 🤪
You can see he used plastic calipers when he measured the length
@@Solipsfilm He's not saying that to you but everyone else 😜, you should pin his comment :)
Excellent design! People just don't get how much time goes into designing a 3d model like this, especially with non engineering software, and filming the process is another story..... it takes a real enthusiast. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the nice words!
It definitely wasn't as simple at it looks in the video, there were a lot of blood, sweat and tears involved before I got it the way it is now 😅 And using 3Ds max didn't help the case indeed..
I'm learning fusion 360 at the moment whenever I have some spare time, and that's also the software I'm using for the next project.
@@Solipsfilm what a lot of people (who have never 3d printed) dont realise is that buying and setting up a 3d printer, perfecting printing and slicing, knowing how to configure the printing parameters etc. is about 1% of 3d printing.
The amount of people (I would say over 99% of 3d printer owners, including owners of high end machines) who have the 'perfect' setup but their printing is limited to printing out Pokémon off thingiverse and other similar trinkets is amazing.
Actually designing things to print, popularly known as 'CAD', is the BIG stumbling block in 3d printer use, and most people who buy a printer and throw it in the garage never to be seen again after a couple of months do it because they cant use CAD. CAD for 3d printing is the same as CAD for subtractive methods (milling, drilling, lathework, etc). There are basically 'lego brick' entry level options, mostly websites but also the popular games 'Minecraft' and 'From the Depths' which have this feature, but all of them have the same problem - you are designing in blocks, so all you can print is blocky things. Above that there is fully featured CAD software such as 3dsmax, fusion360, and freecad, which pretty much requires a degree in engineering to understand. There is nothing inbetween, no 'killer apps' that allow people to progress from the lego brick tools and work thier way up to the top end CAD software.
The stringy-nes of PETG can be mostly eliminated by dehydrating the filament and keeping it dry, it's a very hygroscopic filament and when it absorbs moisture it gets stringy and the resultant prints tend to be more brittle than they should be. I print a lot of stuff in PETG and have had good success with dehydrating in a regular food dehydrator at about 70C for about 8 hours, afterwards I put the filament into my dry box (plastic box with desiccant and a hygrometer) and print from the dry box directly; I get excellent results this way with very little stringing.
what i want to see is a large battery pack like this, but mounted to your belt or backpack, with a umbilical cord type thing running to the tool. would take so much weight off the tool. just like an ego chainsaw
Good idea. I can't help but think that having such a large weight on the base of a tool is not a good way to work...
@@RetiredRhetoricalWarhorse yeah, I've considered many times designing my own battery pack. 2 or 3 OEM batteries in parallel and mounting them inside a modified camel back. Hardest part would be modeling the connector for 3d printing
I think the Post Apocalyptic Inventor did that in this video ruclips.net/video/bHeii834ujs/видео.html
Fcuk, me too
The thickness of the cord must be crazy, considering the amperage some powertools need
Just bought my first cordless drill yesterday and this video just popped out.
Apart from the massive overkill, the grinder, very 👍
I’d trust him doing my dental work with those angle grinders skills 😂
Awesome , just wish I had the skills to make some of these batteries
It does indeed require some prior knowledge to do this but it's never too late to start learning the skills needed!
Personally I started getting into the whole 3D printing because I was determined to make the 18650 power bank from K r a l y n 3D, that was also way above my skillset at the time but I forced myself to do it until I succeeded :)
Anyway, glad you liked the video :)
Dude.... From The Caribbean 🇻🇨....I Say Awesome Build.
Thanks! 😊
Seriously though a very good video to go with the Thinginverse print, Attention to detail is very very high. thank you... My SDS drill has broken after only a few uses, its like the brushes have disappeared...
That would be excellent for the torch they sell
16:15 A Turntable makes things turn, who would have thought :D
Great Project, i love the end result. maaaybe ill do something similar with Einhell´s "Power X-Change" battery system when i finally get a 3d Printer.
Just a safety tip. When removing your car battery, always remove the negative connection first, so that if your metal ratchet/wrench touches another metal part of the car, you aren't shorting the positive to ground.
This is the same reason you should always connect positive first when putting the battery back in.
Oh I never knew why you should do that. That makes sense, thanks
Interesting indeed, never thought about it this way! Thanks for the tip :)
@@Solipsfilm Yeah, first time I was working on something with my vehicle's battery, I learned that lesson first-hand. Now I've got a ratchet with a melted spot on the handle and a matching melted spot on my alternator mount... Turns out that a battery rated to put out almost 900 amps can do some damage to steel real fast!
Many dealership mechs failed to practice
this on Toyotas, which blew the 120amp fuse, thats not easy to remove/replace.
Nice build, however triple strips on the series connection that barely take any amps and using a single strip for the parallels which take all the current is just a bit shady and will definitely lead to high temperature inside the pack as well as high losses due to heated up nickel !
Usually you reinforce the connection in the direction the current travels in this case between the series groups and not along them.
Very nice project still 👌
That's correct!
I made a follow-up video addressing this issue.
Thanks for the useful feedback and glad you liked the project 😊
This is super cool!
@@nolanmeyer4052 Thanks, glad you liked it ☺️
hey I'd love to see a video using Solar panels and these drill chargers as a quick Jerry rig system
Angle Grinder.... The Real Man's Dremel.... Noice!
Hahaha, indeed! 😆
Respect 👏👏👏👏👏🫶💪💪💪💪💪
Thats big in size for drill ... on the belt would be good idea like one person commented
I would like to see this done with makita batteries. They also have pretty particular battery management boards and the aftermarket boards sometimes don't work, don't charge as fast or even don't cell balance. Great video!
I have had the same issue with Aliexpress makita board. Bought twice and they never balanced the cells, so the charger just stalled mid way
@@henryairconcepts2999 Then don't buy the cheapest one you can find. There are quite a few you can buy with basically the same board as the newer OEM Makita battery's.
I’ve been thinking about doing this lately for my jobsite radio that runs off a Milwaukee battery.
Since you used a BMS from a smaller battery pack, wouldn’t that limit your charge/discharge current to what the smaller battery pack was?
Hey there! Real great idea, nice Video, nice STL! Thank you for that. I build one of these. At the moment the second one. Now, there are some batteries unused from the original one. Do you have an STL for 4 oder 6 AH Parkside?
I love maker videos, but usually when I watch a build I'm thinking... 'you could have been more careful with that part.' But not with you. You are one of the only makers so meticulous that the quality comes out nearly consumer-ready. Very impressive. Subscribed.
This really means a lot to me, thanks for the encouraging words!
@@Solipsfilm hi would you make one of these for my 18 volt angle grinder
Wondering if you have made makita battery to parkside adapter
Nice 👏👏👏
Thx!^^
Good job
Man you must need your battery tool t last a week of straight useage haha.
Awesome job though
kijk, dat is een idee. dank je
Great project but a bit safety precaution. PETG is not a great material for cell holder - it creeps when heated (you can use PET bottles as heat shrink tubing). It means your cell holder will start squeezing the cells quite hard which is not the greatest idea (fire risk and all that stuff). Using proper materials for the job would ensure project longevity and spare you nasty surprises down the line. If I needed more temperature resistance and only had a stock Ender 3 I would chose ABS/ASA for the job. If your printer have all metal hotend and can reach higher temperatures I would stick with Glass Fiber reinforced nylon (requires hardened nozzles). It's what bodies of most power tools and batteries are made of - it's reasonably stiff and impact resistant, has a great temperature stability and should be quite printable without enclosure (haven't tried to print it yet but heard it doesn't warp as much as normal nylon which I had moderate success printing in quite cold garage ~15 *C). Don't use Carbon Fiber reinforced filaments as them might end up electrically conductive due to Carbon Fiber strands in them.
very important information!!! i hope he will pin your comment.
Do this for Milwaukee M18 packs and I will personally donate you the price of their M18 battery pack :D I would love to buy an old used Milwaukee M18 2ah pack and extend it to 12ah instead of buying a new M18 12ah for freaking 250 European schillings... Their tools are amazing but the price of batteries is just ridiculous. Anyway, you have earned my sub :)
14,4ah withdraw rate, isnt that suppose to be 20 or 40ah? Like to vtc6 ore does bigger cell-size make up for that? Thanks
Brilliant :) subbed 🎉
I am surprised that the BMS didn't lock when you disconnected it. A kind of protection by the facturer to avoid DIY repair.
Some manufacturers do this nowadays yes.. I think it's terrible practice and I wouldn't buy from a company that does that ever again 😅
@@Solipsfilm This will end like all the print manufacturers, there is no longer any way to refill your cartridges yourself or use cartridges from another brand. But you will still have to buy 😅
@@TheCrozenfox that's why I drive a car from 23years ago, service it myself, also have a laser printer that's 15years old, I refill the toners dirt cheap, same with my tools if it ever gets to that, the second hand market will be your friend. People don't want the old junk but most of the time it's build better and also still serviceable, I like that :)
you da man!
Can you make a bettery for metabo the same what you did with parkside but Then metabo
5:21 I hear you. I suffer from the same illness.
It can be such a pain sometimes right.. But whenever perfection is really needed it can also be a blessing I guess 😅
Like your presentation style... really easy to listen to. Looking forward to more battery management stuff. Subbed here!
Agree 100%
Much appreciation for your work !!! That’s a Huge battery 👍🏻
Really good work man !! Can you made some batteries for sale ?? I will buy one :D
Making the whole battery I will maybe do in the future but for now I'm already selling the 3D printed parts :)
www.etsy.com/nl/listing/1211082739/3d-printed-15ah-parkside-battery-as-seen?ref=listings_manager_grid
I have a Ryobi battery, it took a charge , but not discharging , what can i test or what can i do? I tried bridging between a flat battery, but not working
It would be great if you would make 10ah option :)
Plz make case battery Makita
Thanks you ❤️
I am extremely happy with this video. All the safety is good! Nothing sketched me out. Good job, this is really good!
Thanks, glad you thought everything was done well :)
Hi folk, there is one thing I concern that every lithium battery should have the protect board for each. The old PCB designed for 10 batteries, but you put 15 batteries in the board, which could cause overheating or overcharging in each battery.
Negative. The boards are designed for a certain number of cells in series and even that is changing with boards being designed for 6S-22S and the only spec that isn't variable is the max discharge rating....unless you use a contactor in which case every single parameter has become variable.
Or you can just skip the BMS and pay attention like I do. If you're forgetful add a voltmeter or if you're really forgetful add a voltmeter alarm/buzzer and set the alarm to go off at the discharge voltage of your choice. You get an audible alarm but you decide when you actually want to stop using it unlike a BMS that will cut off when you're 98% done with a project and just need 2 more minutes of use. Short circuit protection is pretty much the only protection I miss. If you size the wires correctly you can have it so the wires fail when you pull too much current if that is a concern with high discharge cells. Add an active balancer to keep the cells in line with each other and you should never have to worry about them getting so out of balance that 3 groups could be 4.0V while 1 is at 4.6V....you'd need some seriously jacked up cells to do that with the 5A capacitor based balance board.
Is it possible to be made for the DEWALT XR Flexvolt 18V-54V battery pack. If yes what kind of batteries should be used?
Flexvolt is really hard to replicate because of the way it series/parallels the packs depending on the tool it is inserted into. It is possible but expect someone to charge you quite a bit of money if they a have to design the new battery housing for it.
My advice would be to find the battery housing on Aliexpress, order one to make sure its good and if you need more than 1 let a battery maker put a pack together first to make sure there are no hidden issues. The shell would probably be $50 at most and 15 cells would be 50 Euros or $60 USD depending on what you get.
I'm pretty sure the Flexvolt uses Samsung 50S...good luck getting those for less than $8 each anywhere. You can substitute with something like the Molicel P45B but thats also a $9-$12 cell. I would use the 4200mah 35A Realistically rated Molicel P42A at $5 each.
Классный акб для шуруповерта. Можно гипсокартон к потолку прикручивать целый день
Haha, exactly 😆
I used 3DSM for 20 years. I ALWAYS wanted to switch to blender, but with all my experience I couldn't ever make the jump. I used blender back around 2002 quite a bit. Well I got tired of Autodesks outrageous pricing. I switched to blender and its literally 100x better in every single way. Also within the first day I was pretty proficient, so it didn't take me as long to get comfortable with it as i thought it would. The only thing I like better in Max is the smoothing groups (which doesn't matter unless you're doing game design). Other than that blender 100% of the way. I switched to blender about 4 months ago. So far I've done 2 professional industrial designs in it. Its so much better. The measurements alone are worth it. I do still find myself using hotkeys from Max and it makes me wanna scream outloud haha. But mostly because I spent 20 years inside of an ancient software whenever I should have just stayed with blender all along.
fantastic. prepare me 2 batteries I'll buy them for you.
I'm sorry but I dont have the time to make more at the moment.. But maybe I can help you out with the printed parts?
www.etsy.com/nl/listing/1211082739/3d-printed-15ah-parkside-battery-as-seen?ref=listings_manager_grid
@@Solipsfilm the amount of entitlement in here is ridiculous. They probably think you would sell them for $100 too!
Fantastic work; absolutely the detail and functionality!!
Really cool idea. 👍
However, did you check the voltages of the batteries before paralleling them? Charges in each battery should be roughly the same so that they work perfectly.
I did check that but forgot to mention it in the video.. That's indeed important :)
Tomorrow I'm putting out a little follow-up video with some updates, this one's also included 👍🏼
They should self balance when in parallel.
@@White000Crow Except that’s less safe than if you individually balanced them to the same voltage first. Also less damaging to the cells.
@@orppranator5230 You are right! but it only matters when the voltage difference is like 1 volt or more. Usually new batteries are within 0.5 volts of each other. So there is no surge current which is more than the c rating of the battery. Its more important in the series conections. What I do is. First measure all the voltages. If within 0.5 volts then i connect all of the batteries in parallell using small neodymium magnets and nickel plated strips. and leave them for like 24 hours. After that they are perfectly balanced and ready to assemble.
Hey guys do you know how to connect 20volts parkside battery to a 12 volts intverter that makes 12v to 220 volts ac
The inverter will not accept such a high voltage. Probably maxes out at 16V. You need a buck converter before the inverter.
👍👍👍🤝🤝🤝
Omg ..... Ok you made it how do the tools fair with it ? It a lot of juice for most Parkside tools
The tools couldn't be happier, the voltage is the same so the tools don't really notice a difference. Since there's so many cells in parallel the voltages drop less and so the tools have a bit more energy to work with if they need it :)
The tools only draw the amount of current they need.
I wish i would have skills to do such things! Super cool!
Please do m18 battery’s, make them bigger than 15ah
Have you donated $800 for 4 days of labor and additional funds for the parts?
Good but I think it is too heavy
There's the grass mower, the coffee machine, the radio, the miter saw from Parkside (just as a couple examples) that also run on battery power and with these tools you might just want that extra bit of power when out in the field 😉
Well done man, great stuff!!
Looking forward to you next project👍👍
Great video. I would like to see 3D printed projects with battery adapter... where you can use Makita battery on Parkside (or the other way around), etc. Usually you can find very cheaply cordless drills but batteries are expensive. So if you can use one battery on multiple tools/companies that would be great.
Watching you putting so much effort in your work I be happy 2 order adapters from you -did buy some adapter b4 but wasn't the quality what I expected-and now i was looking adapter from parkside battery to dewalt and find on Internet pics and can c is not perfect fit -bit much forward then the original battery eould b like...
What is the android device used for the 3D printer? Is it a custom OS or is it an app
It is an app octo4a :) It's really a nice way of reusing an older android smartphone, no need for a raspberry pi anymore.
@@Solipsfilm thank you! I have an old Galaxy S4 that would be perfect for this.
@@SUPERMAR10312 indeed, should be powerful enough for this :) I'm using a galaxy note 5 so it's the same generation of chip since the note was just one number ahead but released the same year. It works like a charm.
Really nice Work Mate. The designing was well thought out in my opinion. There were a few things that I would've changed. But, the way you were talking you seen some changes that would've improved the over all Product too. Thanks for sharing your hard earned knowledge with me. It's appreciated.
بارك الله فيك متابعك من العراق
I need to learn/get a 3d printer... I love shit like this. But damn thats a shit ton of work.
Subbed
I couldn't imagine a life without my printer anymore! Go for it, you won't regret it😉 Thanks for the sub!
TIP for Measurements ...
Scan some graph paper or 5mm sq lines paper and print it onto clear overhead projector film
Place the clear film on the scanner bed and then the battery case on top
It's easy to measure now
You could have pulled a very good April fool's joke, make a 100 Ahr battery that sticks a good foot out of the tool.
Hahaha, that would have been hilarious indeed 😂 Now I'm bummed that I didn't think of this myself.. 😅
Amazing. Great result. Looks like from factory 😃
Thanks for the compliment! Glad you liked the final product :)
Great video sir! You've earned a sub from me 🙂
Awesome, glad you liked it! 😄
Nice build 👌
👍+sub -I like 2 c more builds from u
Is gd u r perfectionist -I like quality work 👏
Great video man, well done and quality work! Looking forward to see where the channel goes. Subbed!
Thanks for the compliment, glad I earned your sub!
At this point why dont print entire battery housing? BMS pcb's are cheap and easy to find, same thing with power terminals
But they won't charge on the official Parkside chargers.. (Tried that before) This seemed the nicest solution to me but feel free to make your own variation 😉
@@Solipsfilm hi, so u tell us, that it would not charge on the official parkside charger, but would a BMS that isnt from parkside work in parkside tools? It may sound like a bad question, but on my ebike from bosch u cant use BMS other than from bosch, because that BMS communicates with motor, does the same apply to parkside? Or only to charger? Many thanks
great work.. need this fpr Einhell 18v Batteries :D
Thanks! I wish I could make it for many other batteries, but I only have Parkside and Bosh myself.. Plus it's so much work and I can already barely find the time to work on my next project already 🙈😅
How much will be the total of this battery and shipping to south Africa
I'm sorry, I don't make the batteries for shipping. You can downloaded the files for free from Thingiverse and print them if you would be up for it 😊
Its very cool design.. would love to see it for milwaukee power tools..
Is there anywhere in Europe that sells the parkside performance tools and delivers throughout Europe?
I'm afraid not.. I can't order from Lidl in Germany or Netherlands and I'm in Belgium.. They have different prices for the same products so I guess that's why they don't want to ship over the border 😔 I saw Amazon sell some tools from Parkside couple of times but it was with extremely inflated prices.
@@Solipsfilm it's so frustrating. I really want the new parkside performance multi welder. We have only had parkside performance tools once in Ireland about 3 years ago.
Thanks bro! I am very grateful. I just bought a printer I'm still a beginner. You keep working really well just like that!
I hear 3d printer have quite a learning curve when you first start. It ain't just click and print. Alot or little numbers you need first but after you get the process it goes smooth. I believe I'm just a electrician and never really used one before but am interested.
The 3D printer is really one of my best purchases I did in years, it really brought my designing process to a whole new level.
Yes, there's definitely a learning curve, especially if you want the prints to turn out really nice but it is so rewarding once you really figure it out :)
Good luck with it! And if you attempt the project, feel free to send me a picture of the finished product ;)
Solipsfilm@gmail.com
Le has puesto tanto amor, felicidad y diversión a tu proyecto y a la edición del vídeo de esta publicación, que me contagiaste de todos esos buenos sentimientos, excelente trabajo hermano, te has ganado un subscriptor y muchos likes mas.
En lo personal no le invertiria todo ese tiempo a un proyecto así, porque ya existen productos en el mercado, pero hay muchas ideas que pudieran llevar la misma lógica y metodología de trabajo, eso es lo realmente importante, no el objetivo si no lo aprendido.
saludos
I'm really glad you enjoyed watching the video, thanks for the great compliments!
Great Video
Your battery can definitely deliver more than 43 amps even the parkside 8ah does double of that. The only problem is if you try to pull this current the fuse in the PCB of the 2ah battery will blow
Interesting.. Makes sense that the 2ah battery fuse wouldn't be designed to handle this amount of current, thanks for the tip, I'll definitely reinforce it! :)
I did a short circuit test with the batteries, they deliver around 70A/cell, that's obviously not what they're made for but that would mean this battery could deliver 210A at it's absolute maximum 😆
2ah and 4ah batteries have the same fuse as far as i can see so to me it seems its the biggest fuse boards and contacts may handle. If it operates correctly with original fuse i would rather leave it as is
The amont of current he can pull doesn't depend on the battery, it depends on the load! If he uses it with the standard tools that are designed to be used with the standard batteries, there's no way he can pull a greater amount of current from it... This battery will last very very long without any decrease in performance. So it's ok to use with the standard PCB.
@@Solipsfilm Please give us an update! Because the 8 AH deliver 100A ! So, witch fuse have you uses to go above the 43A maximum of your design?
Faltou um teste de força, 2ah vs 15ah haha
The temperature sensor is typically a 10k NTC thermistor, if you damage it or it needs to be replaced. It also does not matter which way round the thermistor is soldered to the board. When I used to work with Li-ion cells I used a large ceramic tile to protect the bench from inevitable burns! Speaking of burns remove all rings / watches etc! Metal jewellery can arc and the heat from a short circuit is almost instant! Get yourself some CA glue accelerator spray too.
Don't forget that Milwaukee, SnapOn and another use a 6.8K thermsistor....
@@davidbarker3591 I see you're a battery connoisseur! I never had any luck with Milwaukee liion, 50/50 with the snap ons. Put it down to BMS locked when they fail
Just buy two or three and charge them whilst you use one?
Damn, hadn't thought about that.. Could have saved me a whole bunch of work 😅
Great video. It's very educational and well shot too. Awesome job.
Hi, Nice video, congrats.
I presume that the BMS/Charger will have a timer that will interrupt the charge after certain time for safety... so it would be interesting to see if you manage to fully charge from fully discharge in one shot.
Thanks! 😊 to answer your questions charging is not a problem at all, it just measures the voltage and charges until 4.2v is reached on every cell :) It charges no problem from empty to full 👍🏻 I'll make a video on all these details as soon as I find the time, I'm on a business trip at the moment which is holding me back a bit 😔
Offtopic, still have good quality Toyota too ;)
I love my old Toyota 😍
very very impressive project and video account
Thanks! ☺️
Okay. But for what? Tools are supposed to be handy and lightweight.
Some tools yes, others just need a lot of power when out in the field. I like to just bring one battery that's on the tool but that's obviously up to you what you prefer:)
15 21700s at 67grams each... is 855 gams. Not even one kilo.
I really liked this thank you for making this video
Awesome video my friend. Left a sub ofc.
I'm a little dissapointed youtube suggested you so late for me, but bettter late than never I guess
Keep doing what you do. I'll be here watching it
Hi Marvin!
Thanks for the kind words, I'm glad you like my video's!
It's really a fight against the algorithm to get out there, but you probably know all about that, being a RUclipsr yourself😅
I just checked your channel, really nicely done as well, good explanations and good camera work. 👌🏻
You've got a sub back!
@@Solipsfilm for sure😅. Thanks m8, wish u all the best❤️
I got one of those spot welders. I use a portable battery jump starter and it works great.
LIPO packs is ideal for that spotwelder..
I use 2x 4S 2800mah in parellel and it gives all the spotwelding umff I need.
all in all, been very impressed with it... its rated for 12v (3s) but I dont see any problems with 4S 16v
You don't need to double up the parallel strips that aren't the main positive and negative. What you do need to double/triple stack are the series connections! All the current is flowing along those series connections.
Edit: Ahhh damn looks like you didn't double up any of the series connections but at least you put a strip on each cell to its neighbor. You wouldn't believe the amount of 32700 battery pack videos I've watched on RUclips that show some Indian guy cutting every corner possible including only having one or two series connections on a 20S8P pack. And you know they're using nickel plated steel which has about one third the ampacity of pure nickel so they're using the amount of material you'd use for a 10A safe discharge on a pack with a 50A BMS for a personal EV of some kind that's gonna be pulling at least 30A. TOASTY
Edit Looks like this was addressed
Interesting that original bms can be used. I came across your video as i was searching for a bms that i was thinking it needs changed when upgrading the parkside 12v team batteries. Their 4ah 12v battery has 6 cells of 2ah, and was thinking to just replace them for some 3ah ones, would make it a 6ah and overall better quality battery with good cells.
i have two bluetooth-connected 8ah parkside batteries and they are WAYYYYY enough big.
These batteries didn't exist yet when I made this big one, back then there was only a 4AH one from Parkside as far as I know.
@@Solipsfilm yea i bought my ipact drill with an 8 ah battery on sale
i mostly bought it for the battery
after that i found another 8ah battery and it really has bt-connectivity so i configured it to only work between 20-80% so it would last longer.
yes. parkside.
ngl the way lidl sells their stuff is just stupid. but the tools are good quality for the price.
i want an angle grinder and a welder but seems they just sell what ever on a whim. don't like it. but have bought their stuff b/c of quality per money.
Great project, but I have one advice. You have doubled the strips for parallel cells insted of serial connections. Actualy it doesn't make sense. Most of the current flows between serial cells (short horizontal stripes) - thoes should be thick. The long stripes connected directly to PCB can be actualy very thin, throu them flows almost no current 🙂
You are correct indeed, I'll pin this comment so people know to also double up these nikkel strips :)
1:50 Gave me a scare but then realized it's a plastic caliper.
Most people have metal ones and will be in for a surprise measuring their cells like that. 💥
Haha, plastic indeed 😆 I have a good metal one by now so I'll also have to be careful doing this in the future
gekoloniseerd 🇱🇺
0:40 - Please read it as: 5060 milliamper-hours, but not "milliampers-per-hour".
10:24 And remember to take a picture before removing, so you know witch leg is witch.
How is this system balancing each cell? O.o
Are you dutch?
the battery is very big and most probably too heavy for small power tools. I've see a similar project with cell modification for total power of 9000mAh but what is not clear for me is why is possible to use same BMS board with different cell and major power than the original battery of 2000mAh: do you have more technical info or a datasheet of BMS board 2A? I don't like super glue: is it very super for that heavy work?
PS: for cut plastic of the upper side of the battery an hand tool should be enough than angle grinder 😂😉
The current in your larger banks is the same as it was before. You have changed the capacity, not the current.
what about making a power-bank a thick tablet to hang like a necklace using a Garmin nuvi device, and integrating a light source such as Lidl PARKSIDE PASL 4000 B2 torch bulb... a solar panel and a tiny radio FM, so of course in case of war you can navigate domestic or foreign maps by foot without using smartphones, internet or telephone services, and being localized. Perhaps because in a war action internet services are first to go letting you down.
Another useful feature is to provide a special heated jacket/wind breaker similar to Brandit windbreaker but heated, and more insulated with a hood to sleep in in harsh conditions outside while on the move to safe zone.
How do you include the metallic parts to 3D printed battery?
I'm not sure if I understand the question sorry, could you specify?
@@Solipsfilm I noticed later that top of the battery was "imported" from the original battery. I thought the entire battery was 3D printed. Practically it was just extended. Nice work anyway!
You don't need so much work...just add how much cells you want and then the case will be far apart the up side and backside so you need longer screws depending how much cell you want to add...then in between all round the case put a cover like melted pipe or some robber...easy peasy